earlier this year, I used this method to put a copper finish on one of my mountain bikes. Thus far, its proved to be quite durable, and is aging really well. Best project I've done in ages!
Adding the Ballistol to cap the reaction and circumvent corrosion - very clever, indeed, my friend. Now you are thinking like a chemist! I am so proud....😅 Also, way to model that personal protective equipment! Safety first in the Kampf Laboratory ! ❤
@@bryanhumphreys940 The chemical reduction reaction to form metallic copper will also work with aluminium. However the kinetics of the reaction decide how it will look and if it develops a uniform and attached coating. You can see the difference in the reaction with zinc in the video at 6:30. Also aluminium likes to form a stable layer of aluminium oxide which could be a barrier for the copper ions to reach the metallic aluminium.
finally a video in English explaining the process. I have come across over 2 dozen videos in Russian showing this process , but i still had trouble understanding the chemical used. The Russian videos were using sulfuric acid , copper sulfate crystals from gardening supplies, and distilled water, some was adding Iso alcohol , some was pre-washing the part with a caustic solution then distilled water. They were saying this is an 100 year old recipe from a Russian electro-plating book, but I can't find any reference to it. Thank you Laura.
I am so torn with this channel. In that I love the videos where there is no talking, the music and editing makes it so relaxing and different and enjoyable to watch. But the on the other hand, when Laura is excited about something it is almost contagious! Her attitude is very refreshing and I love the videos where she talks as well.
If your plating goes brown from tarnish, you might try restoring it with a dilute solution of oxalic acid. I used this about 35 years ago to restore the copper doors on my vintage 50's oven. Wipe it on and copper oxide almost instantly gets reduced back to elemental copper. I love your prototyping and builds. Keep on doing what you've been doing.
Cool video / demonstration! No oldschool metalworkers mentioned that yet? That solution was used in the old days to make scribed layout lines on steel more appearant - Like Dykem Layout blue, just more resistant. "Kupfervitriol" is what it was known in German.
Kupfersulfat, Kupfersulfat-Pentahydrat if you want to be very exact, but the ages of alchemy are quite a long time ago now 😂. Also I think what got formed here was copper formiate, not the sulfate, same principle tho.
Me too. I felt so guilty learning so much from her that I can use, that eventually I decided I had to support her on Patreon (and a few other makers I learn/am inspired by). That's just how I am.
Hey Laura! Du kannst auch einfach Kupfersulfat - entweder aus der Apotheke, Laborbedarf, Landhandel oder Online - besorgen, dieses in kaltem Wasser lösen und dann auftragen. Das erspart den Umgang mit Säure am Herd ☺️ Auf die Weise habe ich unter anderem mein Lastenfahrrad vor ein paar Jahren beschichtet und anschließend mit „Plastik 70“ von Kontaktchemie versiegelt. Hält nach wie vor super und die Optik ist mega! 😃🤙🏻
Laura, this is my favorite video you have ever posted. I love the look of copper and have wanted to try electroplating but this, THIS is so much more convenient and simple. Thank you for sharing this magic potion!
You have just entered the dark art of Patination. :) You can get any color from white to black and yellows, reds, greens and blues. I've even seen a Patina done in a mottled silver. Robert Murray smith is a brilliant teacher, and very much into making things out of re-used parts. He's been working on Vertical Wind Turbines most of the last year. But he is a Chemist by training.
Like it! A safty tip if you boil a solution like this. Always put a glas stick or some glas beads into the beaker. This prevents a blowout from deferred boiling which could spray the acid a few meters around. The glas gives a "seed" for gas bubbles to form unlike the smooth surface of the beaker so the liquid can not overheat without boiling.
Very cool! This reminds me of when I dropped a slightly rusted pen nib into some vinegar that was on my bench, forgetting that it had some copper and stuff dissolved in it. It cold-blued the nib a really nice even black colour, and I've never been able to replicate it since!
Hi Laura, excellent result, a technique I did not know. I would just say that with electrodeposition you could probably create more consistent layers than what you can create with this method, but the problem will only arise in areas of high wear or exposed to the elements. Hello and see you next Sunday
Love the results and even the unexpexted turns of the process with the zinc. Sometimes you would want to add some copper elements to certain furniture or desing and it is pretty expensive to buy copper to add it as en element and this is just the solution for that. Thanks!
1 semi-related trick I picked up in blacksmithing class is you can hit hot steel with a cheap brass wire brush on an angle grinder or dremel to bond the brass onto the steel.
Cool technique, and I love your enthusiasm and creativity! I think the chemistry is a bit different than you explained - copper oxide and formic acid makes oxidized (ionic, not elemental) copper formate complex. When it contacts iron in the steel, the acid oxidizes the iron (to ferrous formate) and the copper formate reduces to elemental copper and formate ion. I think this has advantages over copper sulfate - because the formic acid keeps the normal iron oxides (rust) from forming so fast (keeps the oxidized iron in solution better than ferrous sulfate). What’s doing the electroplating? There is an electrochemical cell (like a battery) formed at this chemical interface - so the electricity comes from the reaction (not a separate power supply). The technique would still be considered electroplating, but the electricity in this case is from the oxidation-reduction reaction.
@Alessio Vitali - I think aluminum plating would require more electricity (more voltage). Chrome plating of steel much better and more compatible with steel, I think - but also done with an external power source. Be careful, though - acids, hexavalent chrome (a carcinogen) and other factors pose some safety risks that are probably best left to shops prepared for safe handling and waste management.
I instantly see a usage. I'm thinking of making a copper "lookalike" splash guard from cheap steel instead of real copper. As you point out, sometimes you are only looking for the look. Thanks Laura, keep up your inspirational work.
I kinda wanna know how durable this coating is as well. Might consider plating some scales for some armor I'm making over the next few months if it's durable. That black look would be wonderful if it's good enough to polish to a sheen! Especially if you selectively plate it with something like paint over the layers so it can give contrast. That black with the copper for decoration, as well as fighting rust!
@@roetemeteor in my experience, it's an extremely thin layer that scratches easily without adding a clear coat. If you do an electroplating bath, you can build up the copper layer very thick.
You can make cool rainbow effects on copper just by putting a torch to it. From what I see from the process, this will now also work on your copperplated stuff. By mixing in more oxygen and playing with the heat of the flame, you can make different colors. Look up "flame painting copper" and you will get a lot of examples.
Thanks for this video. A related effect can be created by dissolving a kernel of copper sewer line root destroyer in vinegar, a procedure I've used for 40 years to sign steel or cast iron tools when I work away from the shop or attend teaching workshops. The solution is applied with an artist's pen nib. A smooth surface and polished nib tip make crisp lettering. The process you demonstrate is exciting in part for the possibility of blackening the surface of EMT electric conduit or galvanized iron pipe.
This is so awesome thank you for explaining the process of it to those of us who know little about chem, your break down was easy to understand, so thank you! And also, the examples you showed of the copper (& the copper camouflage) were awesome. You rock!!!!
Stateside we have Sculpt Nouveau that makes a number of similar chemicals ready to spray, but mixing up your own is good too. I was going to suggest you try it on zinc until you did! I really like that look, use it a fair bit.
If the zinc is plated on steel already like in a galvanized steel bolt, besides now being black, is the bolt more resistant to rusting afterwards, or less resistant ?
@@42Fab Bummer. What would be the best way to improve rust resistance on hardware that was only available in light galvanized finish ? Powder coating ? Acrylic base paint ? Something else ?
It is Alchemy! Also known as chemistry. ;-) I haven't done any proper electroplating, but I have used chemical solutions to colour copper. You can strip it clean for that amazing pink shade, or make it dark brown or black or green or blue by oxidizing it with chemicals you already have at home. And then seal it with wax or a spray sealant. As you discovered, you can mask smooth areas, but my favorite thing to do is oxidize a detailed relief and then polish the top layer and maybe oxidize that to a different colour.
You can also plate with brass using just a brass wire brush and scrubbing the brass onto the steel. Heating the steel with a torch also helps. Never tried it with copper but I’ll bet it works too.
Great video!!! Yeah in Australia we can get Sculpt Neveu also which has a lot of different effects. The BLACK ones look epic on steel and Aluminium. Just search "applying patinas to steel" and you will find their video series on UA-cam
This effect is well known to metalsmiths! You can use it to plate solder seams when pickling oxidation off of your copper parts. It's a great use for pickle that is heavily saturated in copper. Simply place a bit of steel wire into the pickle with your piece, and all the non-copper metal in the pot will get plated as the copper in solution looks for a place to camp out. (Pickle is what silversmiths and so on call the acid solution used to remove oxidation from work pieces)
You want to see something even more awesome? Hit the zinc portions of the chair with a torch. Trust me a flame or sufficient heat should turn the black areas to gold brass.
By this time next week, everything that Laura owns that is steel will look like its been copper-plated! This is a super-cool technique; the uses for this are nearly endless. Awesome video, Laura!!
Laura: if you're keeping your extra solution in a jar, could you follow up and let us know how long it stays shelf-stable? I'm wondering if the copper will precipitate out of the solution over time.
Thanks for this laura, i am rebuilding a bike and thought, wouldnt these rusty spokes look cool copper plated. On to youtube and here it is. Love the video and the bike is looking great too x
Wowwwww!!! Se te siente muy excitada por este descubrimiento y por el resultado de la aplicació!!! Felicitaciones!!! A seguir investigando cosas nuevas! Un abrazo! Germán, Montevideo, Uruguay!
You should also try if you can get the copper plating to oxidize/corrode, and if that could be used as a finish. Copper oxide (tenorite) is black (like can be seen in this video), but that reacts further, and turns into that green patina (verdigris) that everyone knows. Could take a long time for that to form though, maybe you could accelerate it somehow?
Chemistry practice is SOO fun! This in particular with ants (formic acid), brushes and spontanity Cu oxidazed is amazing. And the briefness. I must give it a try to this recipe. Thanks, Laura and team!
There are two copper oxides: copper(I) oxide (or cuprous oxide, Cu₂O), and copper(II) oxide (or cupric oxide, CuO). Based solely on its appearance, I'm guessing it's CuO. It's probably really important which one you use.
Love experiments and love explanations! Especially with so much enthusiasm and a smiley face 😀 (if only school chemistry lessons were like this...) 🧪⚗️
If I didn't misundersand, the acid makes the oxide to go on and on. For wiping after you have the desired effect, maybe you could try with a solution of water and bicarbonate (baking powder), this basic solution just "kills" the acid. I'm Spanish, so I'm not sure if I understood everything, so, if I'm talking bullcheese, just ignore it. Thanks Laura for your videos
I work in electro plating. Yes nickel can be plated. You have to get your hands on some nickel solution in place of the "copper electrolyte" that was shown, but its the same concept
@@mathewschimmenti17 thanks for pointing that out. I have a pair of Stanley old tools (55 and 71) that need nickel plating. Hope the nickel solution is easy to find. Thanks!
Search for "electroless nickel plating" to find options for how to do it. According to my quick searching, it typically uses a water solution containing nickel salt and a phosphorus-containing reducing agent (usually a hypophosphite salt).
Laura. Check out "Steel f/x" steel patinas. I learned of these from fireball tools bandsaw restoration video(part4). What you made is exactly like their copper spray patina, but there are so many more you could experiment with. Love your videos! 😁
I'm so glad you showed using a mask. The moment I saw you brushing stuff on I started thinking how AWESOME stuff would look with a mask and BOOM THERE IT IS.
I believe Smith used copper nanoparticles. You can make something like this by reduction of copper sulphate with ascorbic acid to produce nanoparticles. You must keep the precipitated copper nanoparticles under the acidic water until use otherwise they will oxidize and not bond. Simply rubbing the solution onto the steel will copperplate it.
That is way cool! I may have to cook up something like that myself! I do wonder though, with electrolysis, especially when you can submerge stuff, you can build up pretty thick copper coatings if you want. Could you apply this in layer after layer on top of each other and build it up thicker, or is the first application basically the end of what you get?
I think this method just gives a very thin layer of copper then stops when the iron is covered. (In another of Roberts videos he makes a gel) here he shows a by making a very simple circuit you can make quite a thick layer of copper build up. For painting type effects though this is pretty amazing, thank you Laura!
Search Roberts channel for nano copper if I recall correctly, it was a more paste like that used suspended nano particles of copper, but I can't remember how he applied it
This type of chemical deposition was once commonly used to deposit silver onto glass for making all kinds of silver mirrors. This is rarely used now because vapor deposition of aluminum is preferred for nearly all purposes. (Aluminum mirrors are more chemically resistant and have a higher reflectivity than silver.) The effect works because the dissolved metal is oxidized in solution, but deposits when it gets reduced. To do it on glass a reducing agent (conventionally, sugar is used with silver) needs to be in the solution. For metal on metal, it would depend on the chemistry of the metals. Some metals will reduce other metals and get oxidized themselves. (This is probably why the steel corrodes fast in contact with the solution.) Incidentally, don't make it the way Laura did. She put the flask she made her solution in on the bottom of the water bath. As the purpose of the water bath is to prevent the flask the solution is being made in getting hotter than boiling water, putting it on the bottom of the water bath allows heat to go into the flask from the container the bath is in without going through the water first, so the temperature isn't limited. It probably won't do anything too bad in this case, but in general, you don't want to defeat your double boiler when a double boiler is called for. There needs to be a platform to allow water to freely circulate between the flask and the container the bath is in.
You should be able to get the same effect using Copper Sulphate crystals dissolved in cold water just to the point where no more crystals will dissolve. (Saturation Point). Copper Sulphate is used to kill off unwanted tree roots so may be available in local gardening centres cheaper than ordering online. The effect is just as fast as copper oxide in acid but can be speeded up by adding vinegar. Robert Murray Smith is a genius.
This solution will do a great job for all the visiual things. I guess the only downside is, it won't be as thick as with electroplating. When you hit steel with the solution it will form one nice layer of copper. But the next application won't cause another layer to form. With electroplating you can form multiple layers and thus make the plating more resistant, especially if you want to polish it up afterwards.
Wow, that instant reaction is stunning! And the application possibilities really have my mind churning. In the electroplating demonstrations I've seen, they usually submerse the piece being plated in the solution. This sems to allow even coverage and the ability to let it "cook" on its own. Of course for as piece as large as your gas tank, this would require a lot of solution, which is probably cost prohibitive. Anyway, this is a very cool process with awesome results. Thanks for showing more than one way to do it. I want to try both ways now. Thanks for sharing!
Now that you have copper on steel, you can put other plating on top of that, which you would not otherwise be able to do. I like to try this technique too. I have to do some small parts on my Model A ford, where I do not want to remove them. This way I can do them in-situ, then over-plate them with nickel or something else.
It looks awesome! I wonder if you could combine both techniques, i.e. start with the chemical coating then add one or several layers of electroplating on top. Hopefully it should accelerate the process and build up a more durable finish.
I am pretty sure they sell this stuff for stained glass windows. It is called patina. It turns zinc black and lead solder black as well. I havent tried it on steel but there is copper oxide in it. Source I made a stained glass window and used patina.
OK at 1st I did not realize that you had the amounts written on top of your jars. So I photoshop A copy of it so I can Get the right amount .. I made the amounts and made some , And by golly it worked great on steel. But it did not want to stick to stainless steel which my tank was made out of. So I took a sander and sanded it down and scratched it all up real good... To give it something to ahear to.... And by golly it works Thank you very much For making the video......
Woodworking, metal work, welding, electrical and now Laura's added alchemy! So cool.
I can confirm, Robert Murray-Smith's UA-cam channel is an absolute goldmine for anyone interested in science, tinkering, inventing and DIY ❤
earlier this year, I used this method to put a copper finish on one of my mountain bikes. Thus far, its proved to be quite durable, and is aging really well. Best project I've done in ages!
Adding the Ballistol to cap the reaction and circumvent corrosion - very clever, indeed, my friend. Now you are thinking like a chemist! I am so proud....😅 Also, way to model that personal protective equipment! Safety first in the Kampf Laboratory ! ❤
Thanks for helping me with everything! What a great collaboration ❤️
Absolutely! I am particularly partial to fire, but I don't think you need assistance with that. 😁
It's been a while since I took inorganic chemistry, but this would work on aluminum too, right?
@@bryanhumphreys940 The chemical reduction reaction to form metallic copper will also work with aluminium. However the kinetics of the reaction decide how it will look and if it develops a uniform and attached coating. You can see the difference in the reaction with zinc in the video at 6:30.
Also aluminium likes to form a stable layer of aluminium oxide which could be a barrier for the copper ions to reach the metallic aluminium.
@@Flederratte it could be interesting if you were to polish part of the aluminum right before application with some toothpaste.
finally a video in English explaining the process. I have come across over 2 dozen videos in Russian showing this process , but i still had trouble understanding the chemical used. The Russian videos were using sulfuric acid , copper sulfate crystals from gardening supplies, and distilled water, some was adding Iso alcohol , some was pre-washing the part with a caustic solution then distilled water. They were saying this is an 100 year old recipe from a Russian electro-plating book, but I can't find any reference to it. Thank you Laura.
I am so torn with this channel.
In that I love the videos where there is no talking, the music and editing makes it so relaxing and different and enjoyable to watch. But the on the other hand, when Laura is excited about something it is almost contagious! Her attitude is very refreshing and I love the videos where she talks as well.
Thank you!
If your plating goes brown from tarnish, you might try restoring it with a dilute solution of oxalic acid. I used this about 35 years ago to restore the copper doors on my vintage 50's oven. Wipe it on and copper oxide almost instantly gets reduced back to elemental copper. I love your prototyping and builds. Keep on doing what you've been doing.
Top tip, thanks Lee. Am just starting out with metal work and starting to appreciate all the things I don't yet know!
Don't. That's for actual copper.
Use normal retail metal cleaners usually come in paste forms packaged in tubes or pourable options.
I love how you always credit whoever helped you come up with the results!
Of course! Teamwork ❤️
The copper and zinc chair looks super cool!
That type of acid copper solution was once used by machinists as a layout fluid before the commercially made Dykem layout fluid came out.
Laura, I wonder if the solution could be sprayed on? Might be a more faster, more uniform application.
Edit: .."more faster..."??
*D'OH!!*
That's how I do it.
Or maybe if you could make enough to dip the piece directly in?
Yes, I am sure that would work too
@@laurakampfdoes it works , with alumunium?
Cool video / demonstration!
No oldschool metalworkers mentioned that yet? That solution was used in the old days to make scribed layout lines on steel more appearant - Like Dykem Layout blue, just more resistant.
"Kupfervitriol" is what it was known in German.
Never heard of it! Nice!
@@laurakampf Absolutely. Simpler solution is saturated Copper Sulfate with a little battery acid.
Kupfersulfat, Kupfersulfat-Pentahydrat if you want to be very exact, but the ages of alchemy are quite a long time ago now 😂.
Also I think what got formed here was copper formiate, not the sulfate, same principle tho.
You are my No. 1st choice on UA-cam for long time because I can learn such big range of different stuff. Thank you for that!
❤️❤️❤️
Me too. I felt so guilty learning so much from her that I can use, that eventually I decided I had to support her on Patreon (and a few other makers I learn/am inspired by). That's just how I am.
Oohhhh! That chair looks awesome!
COPPERPLATE ALL THE THINGS!!
Hey Laura!
Du kannst auch einfach Kupfersulfat - entweder aus der Apotheke, Laborbedarf, Landhandel oder Online - besorgen, dieses in kaltem Wasser lösen und dann auftragen. Das erspart den Umgang mit Säure am Herd ☺️ Auf die Weise habe ich unter anderem mein Lastenfahrrad vor ein paar Jahren beschichtet und anschließend mit „Plastik 70“ von Kontaktchemie versiegelt. Hält nach wie vor super und die Optik ist mega! 😃🤙🏻
Das ist ja noch besser! Muss man destilliertes Wasser nehmen und wieviel davon? Gibts da ein Mischungsverhältnis?
@@schwuzi ich hab immer Leitungswasser genommen und eine gesättigte Lösung hergestellt.
Laura, this is my favorite video you have ever posted. I love the look of copper and have wanted to try electroplating but this, THIS is so much more convenient and simple. Thank you for sharing this magic potion!
Science! This was utterly fascinating. I can’t wait to try it for myself.
I am fascinated by your enthusiasm and your curiosity, I admired your decision, thank you for sharing your art.
You have just entered the dark art of Patination. :)
You can get any color from white to black and yellows, reds, greens and blues.
I've even seen a Patina done in a mottled silver.
Robert Murray smith is a brilliant teacher, and very much into making things out of re-used parts.
He's been working on Vertical Wind Turbines most of the last year.
But he is a Chemist by training.
Like it! A safty tip if you boil a solution like this. Always put a glas stick or some glas beads into the beaker. This prevents a blowout from deferred boiling which could spray the acid a few meters around. The glas gives a "seed" for gas bubbles to form unlike the smooth surface of the beaker so the liquid can not overheat without boiling.
Oh, the chair..... It's stunning!!! And the stencil stickers. Not just text but designs of all patterns.
Very cool! This reminds me of when I dropped a slightly rusted pen nib into some vinegar that was on my bench, forgetting that it had some copper and stuff dissolved in it. It cold-blued the nib a really nice even black colour, and I've never been able to replicate it since!
Hi Laura,
excellent result, a technique I did not know.
I would just say that with electrodeposition you could probably create more consistent layers than what you can create with this method, but the problem will only arise in areas of high wear or exposed to the elements.
Hello and see you next Sunday
Love the results and even the unexpexted turns of the process with the zinc. Sometimes you would want to add some copper elements to certain furniture or desing and it is pretty expensive to buy copper to add it as en element and this is just the solution for that. Thanks!
The wonders of alchemy definitely digging the copper camouflage
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for. I couldn’t find anything beyond electro copper plating, I’m thrilled and very appreciative 🤟🏽
1 semi-related trick I picked up in blacksmithing class is you can hit hot steel with a cheap brass wire brush on an angle grinder or dremel to bond the brass onto the steel.
Cool technique, and I love your enthusiasm and creativity! I think the chemistry is a bit different than you explained - copper oxide and formic acid makes oxidized (ionic, not elemental) copper formate complex. When it contacts iron in the steel, the acid oxidizes the iron (to ferrous formate) and the copper formate reduces to elemental copper and formate ion. I think this has advantages over copper sulfate - because the formic acid keeps the normal iron oxides (rust) from forming so fast (keeps the oxidized iron in solution better than ferrous sulfate). What’s doing the electroplating? There is an electrochemical cell (like a battery) formed at this chemical interface - so the electricity comes from the reaction (not a separate power supply). The technique would still be considered electroplating, but the electricity in this case is from the oxidation-reduction reaction.
Would it work on aluminum?
@Alessio Vitali - I think aluminum plating would require more electricity (more voltage). Chrome plating of steel much better and more compatible with steel, I think - but also done with an external power source. Be careful, though - acids, hexavalent chrome (a carcinogen) and other factors pose some safety risks that are probably best left to shops prepared for safe handling and waste management.
Ja, jede Methode hat Ihre Vorteile. Danke, das du uns diesmal ein wenig in die Grundlagen der Alchemie eingeführt hast. :)
I instantly see a usage. I'm thinking of making a copper "lookalike" splash guard from cheap steel instead of real copper. As you point out, sometimes you are only looking for the look. Thanks Laura, keep up your inspirational work.
Hi! How scratch resistant are these methods? Any difference between them?
I kinda wanna know how durable this coating is as well. Might consider plating some scales for some armor I'm making over the next few months if it's durable. That black look would be wonderful if it's good enough to polish to a sheen! Especially if you selectively plate it with something like paint over the layers so it can give contrast. That black with the copper for decoration, as well as fighting rust!
@@roetemeteor in my experience, it's an extremely thin layer that scratches easily without adding a clear coat. If you do an electroplating bath, you can build up the copper layer very thick.
Wow I love how the chair turned out with the black zinc. Super cool laredo camp stove!
You can make cool rainbow effects on copper just by putting a torch to it. From what I see from the process, this will now also work on your copperplated stuff. By mixing in more oxygen and playing with the heat of the flame, you can make different colors. Look up "flame painting copper" and you will get a lot of examples.
Thanks for this video. A related effect can be created by dissolving a kernel of copper sewer line root destroyer in vinegar, a procedure I've used for 40 years to sign steel or cast iron tools when I work away from the shop or attend teaching workshops. The solution is applied with an artist's pen nib. A smooth surface and polished nib tip make crisp lettering. The process you demonstrate is exciting in part for the possibility of blackening the surface of EMT electric conduit or galvanized iron pipe.
We had no heat or power for a week... so I am glad to be slowly getting back to normal... thanks for a moment of fun
This is so awesome thank you for explaining the process of it to those of us who know little about chem, your break down was easy to understand, so thank you! And also, the examples you showed of the copper (& the copper camouflage) were awesome. You rock!!!!
this is one of the most interesting videos i've seen in awhile. That chair is gorgeous.
Thank you!
I love that you love finding stuff out, experimenting and sharing with is all. Thank you
As a stained glass artist, I use this all the time for getting my lead solder to go 'copper' and then I just add a copper frame.
Is the copper oxide suppose to dissolve completely? I have some black sediment on the bottom, but the color is bright blue!
Stateside we have Sculpt Nouveau that makes a number of similar chemicals ready to spray, but mixing up your own is good too. I was going to suggest you try it on zinc until you did! I really like that look, use it a fair bit.
If the zinc is plated on steel already like in a galvanized steel bolt, besides now being black, is the bolt more resistant to rusting afterwards, or less resistant ?
@@kirkellis4329 less resistant. Patina are acids, and should be clear coated or waxed
@@42Fab Bummer. What would be the best way to improve rust resistance on hardware that was only available in light galvanized finish ? Powder coating ? Acrylic base paint ? Something else ?
@@kirkellis4329 any paint suitable to the environment it will live in
Love your excitement and enthusiasm! It’s infectious!
Spraying it on would probably give you some really cool effects
It is Alchemy! Also known as chemistry. ;-)
I haven't done any proper electroplating, but I have used chemical solutions to colour copper. You can strip it clean for that amazing pink shade, or make it dark brown or black or green or blue by oxidizing it with chemicals you already have at home. And then seal it with wax or a spray sealant. As you discovered, you can mask smooth areas, but my favorite thing to do is oxidize a detailed relief and then polish the top layer and maybe oxidize that to a different colour.
Awesome. Yet another “tool” for the designer/maker. Masking up to go buy a camping stove for the workshop right now! Thanks for this.
You can also plate with brass using just a brass wire brush and scrubbing the brass onto the steel. Heating the steel with a torch also helps. Never tried it with copper but I’ll bet it works too.
Great video!!! Yeah in Australia we can get Sculpt Neveu also which has a lot of different effects. The BLACK ones look epic on steel and Aluminium.
Just search "applying patinas to steel" and you will find their video series on UA-cam
This effect is well known to metalsmiths! You can use it to plate solder seams when pickling oxidation off of your copper parts. It's a great use for pickle that is heavily saturated in copper. Simply place a bit of steel wire into the pickle with your piece, and all the non-copper metal in the pot will get plated as the copper in solution looks for a place to camp out. (Pickle is what silversmiths and so on call the acid solution used to remove oxidation from work pieces)
Very veerrry nice..
Laura is now an official full metal alchemist.
You want to see something even more awesome? Hit the zinc portions of the chair with a torch. Trust me a flame or sufficient heat should turn the black areas to gold brass.
Oh my god that copper and zinc look is sick!!! I love that!!
Wait, what? my mechanics that’s pretty cool.
Thanks for sharing your video, and your amazing smile and energy!
I love this. I especially love the zinc/copper chair!!
Dear Laura, today I liked all your videos. I mean all the videos which I hadn't liked before, to support your channel! 😍
By this time next week, everything that Laura owns that is steel will look like its been copper-plated! This is a super-cool technique; the uses for this are nearly endless. Awesome video, Laura!!
Laura: if you're keeping your extra solution in a jar, could you follow up and let us know how long it stays shelf-stable? I'm wondering if the copper will precipitate out of the solution over time.
Thanks for this laura, i am rebuilding a bike and thought, wouldnt these rusty spokes look cool copper plated. On to youtube and here it is. Love the video and the bike is looking great too x
It is a delight to see your joy in a new discovery. The chair looks super! Thanks, Laura, for sharing this with us!
okay i never had chemistry in school in the netherlands but you made it understandable for me so GREAT JOB and super video !
Wowwwww!!! Se te siente muy excitada por este descubrimiento y por el resultado de la aplicació!!! Felicitaciones!!! A seguir investigando cosas nuevas! Un abrazo! Germán, Montevideo, Uruguay!
You should also try if you can get the copper plating to oxidize/corrode, and if that could be used as a finish. Copper oxide (tenorite) is black (like can be seen in this video), but that reacts further, and turns into that green patina (verdigris) that everyone knows.
Could take a long time for that to form though, maybe you could accelerate it somehow?
Love your boiling bowl the front of a front loader washing machine being recycled :) 🙌🏽
Wow! That's totally awesome!
This is the puzzle price as far as working on a project of mine! Thank you for the knowledge!!
Chemistry practice is SOO fun!
This in particular with ants (formic acid), brushes and spontanity Cu oxidazed is amazing. And the briefness.
I must give it a try to this recipe.
Thanks, Laura and team!
so cool!! i just started building out my tiny workshop in my apartment in chicago, I'm so excited to try this!
There are two copper oxides: copper(I) oxide (or cuprous oxide, Cu₂O), and copper(II) oxide (or cupric oxide, CuO). Based solely on its appearance, I'm guessing it's CuO. It's probably really important which one you use.
Love experiments and love explanations! Especially with so much enthusiasm and a smiley face 😀 (if only school chemistry lessons were like this...) 🧪⚗️
If I didn't misundersand, the acid makes the oxide to go on and on.
For wiping after you have the desired effect, maybe you could try with a solution of water and bicarbonate (baking powder), this basic solution just "kills" the acid.
I'm Spanish, so I'm not sure if I understood everything, so, if I'm talking bullcheese, just ignore it.
Thanks Laura for your videos
Apart from the wonderful educational aspects and cool ideas Just love your energy... so good.
To do signs and prints like that looks stunning, very very cool
What a beautiful effect you got from that! ❤️
CRORES OF THANKS HEARTFULLY FOR SHARING SUCH AN VALUABLE INFO. God Bless you.
That stencil was incredible!
You can do the same thing with electroplating as well.
Pretty cool! Does it work with nickel too or just with copper?
I work in electro plating. Yes nickel can be plated. You have to get your hands on some nickel solution in place of the "copper electrolyte" that was shown, but its the same concept
Omg Laura and My Mechanics together? Please do a project together? 🐕
@@mathewschimmenti17 thanks for pointing that out. I have a pair of Stanley old tools (55 and 71) that need nickel plating. Hope the nickel solution is easy to find. Thanks!
Search for "electroless nickel plating" to find options for how to do it. According to my quick searching, it typically uses a water solution containing nickel salt and a phosphorus-containing reducing agent (usually a hypophosphite salt).
In german it’s called „Chemisch/Stromlos Nickel“
Laura. Check out "Steel f/x" steel patinas. I learned of these from fireball tools bandsaw restoration video(part4). What you made is exactly like their copper spray patina, but there are so many more you could experiment with. Love your videos! 😁
A video containing two of my more favorite makers! even if this one only has one person actually in it!
I'm so glad you showed using a mask. The moment I saw you brushing stuff on I started thinking how AWESOME stuff would look with a mask and BOOM THERE IT IS.
I believe Smith used copper nanoparticles. You can make something like this by reduction of copper sulphate with ascorbic acid to produce nanoparticles. You must keep the precipitated copper nanoparticles under the acidic water until use otherwise they will oxidize and not bond. Simply rubbing the solution onto the steel will copperplate it.
Sooo good! I couldn’t believe my eyes when the brush first hit the metal.
Yes, so good!!
Is the copper oxide supposed to completely dissolve? Mine has some black sediment in the bottom but the color is bright blue?
Oh this is amazing! I love it when an "aha" moment happens, so many possibilities! Thanks Laura!
That is way cool! I may have to cook up something like that myself! I do wonder though, with electrolysis, especially when you can submerge stuff, you can build up pretty thick copper coatings if you want. Could you apply this in layer after layer on top of each other and build it up thicker, or is the first application basically the end of what you get?
I think this method just gives a very thin layer of copper then stops when the iron is covered. (In another of Roberts videos he makes a gel) here he shows a by making a very simple circuit you can make quite a thick layer of copper build up. For painting type effects though this is pretty amazing, thank you Laura!
Search Roberts channel for nano copper if I recall correctly, it was a more paste like that used suspended nano particles of copper, but I can't remember how he applied it
Hey man, big fan. Once the copper is covered, it no longer has free elemental iron to convert the copper available.
Good stuff Ms. Kampf. Keep on smiling.
This type of chemical deposition was once commonly used to deposit silver onto glass for making all kinds of silver mirrors. This is rarely used now because vapor deposition of aluminum is preferred for nearly all purposes. (Aluminum mirrors are more chemically resistant and have a higher reflectivity than silver.) The effect works because the dissolved metal is oxidized in solution, but deposits when it gets reduced. To do it on glass a reducing agent (conventionally, sugar is used with silver) needs to be in the solution. For metal on metal, it would depend on the chemistry of the metals. Some metals will reduce other metals and get oxidized themselves. (This is probably why the steel corrodes fast in contact with the solution.)
Incidentally, don't make it the way Laura did. She put the flask she made her solution in on the bottom of the water bath. As the purpose of the water bath is to prevent the flask the solution is being made in getting hotter than boiling water, putting it on the bottom of the water bath allows heat to go into the flask from the container the bath is in without going through the water first, so the temperature isn't limited. It probably won't do anything too bad in this case, but in general, you don't want to defeat your double boiler when a double boiler is called for. There needs to be a platform to allow water to freely circulate between the flask and the container the bath is in.
You should be able to get the same effect using Copper Sulphate crystals dissolved in cold water just to the point where no more crystals will dissolve. (Saturation Point).
Copper Sulphate is used to kill off unwanted tree roots so may be available in local gardening centres cheaper than ordering online.
The effect is just as fast as copper oxide in acid but can be speeded up by adding vinegar.
Robert Murray Smith is a genius.
It's a joy to watch your videos!
This solution will do a great job for all the visiual things. I guess the only downside is, it won't be as thick as with electroplating. When you hit steel with the solution it will form one nice layer of copper. But the next application won't cause another layer to form. With electroplating you can form multiple layers and thus make the plating more resistant, especially if you want to polish it up afterwards.
I could feel my head expanding with your explanation! Thank you SO much for this! I have an application I'd like to use this process on!
It’s always a great idea to experiment with different techniques for applying different substances to metals Laura.
Ahhhhh! Amazing! So many ideas come to mind now!
I'm just as excited as you are. Thank you!
This sounds so cool! I have so many ideas! Not great at executing any ideas I have, but you never know!
Wow, that instant reaction is stunning! And the application possibilities really have my mind churning. In the electroplating demonstrations I've seen, they usually submerse the piece being plated in the solution. This sems to allow even coverage and the ability to let it "cook" on its own. Of course for as piece as large as your gas tank, this would require a lot of solution, which is probably cost prohibitive. Anyway, this is a very cool process with awesome results. Thanks for showing more than one way to do it. I want to try both ways now. Thanks for sharing!
This is brilliant!! I NEED this technique in my life
Now that you have copper on steel, you can put other plating on top of that, which you would not otherwise be able to do.
I like to try this technique too. I have to do some small parts on my Model A ford, where I do not want to remove them. This way I can do them in-situ, then over-plate them with nickel or something else.
It looks awesome! I wonder if you could combine both techniques, i.e. start with the chemical coating then add one or several layers of electroplating on top. Hopefully it should accelerate the process and build up a more durable finish.
Laura goes "Mad Scientist".
Love it!
I am pretty sure they sell this stuff for stained glass windows. It is called patina. It turns zinc black and lead solder black as well. I havent tried it on steel but there is copper oxide in it. Source I made a stained glass window and used patina.
I love your videos, and you are very alike to my mom haha! Thx from México
Man, thanks Laura for giving me one more thing to experiment with on future projects!!!
As if my list of things to try out is not long enough!!!
OK at 1st I did not realize that you had the amounts written on top of your jars. So I photoshop A copy of it so I can Get the right amount .. I made the amounts and made some , And by golly it worked great on steel. But it did not want to stick to stainless steel which my tank was made out of. So I took a sander and sanded it down and scratched it all up real good... To give it something to ahear to.... And by golly it works Thank you very much For making the video......
Your excitement is infectious! :D Looks super cool.