As a radar technician that uses $30k to $90k systems everyday and has over 140 hours of training using and understanding radar I can clear some of this up. The unit sends a radio signal out and picks up a return. When you calibrate the unit it sets the avg speed of the signal and a avg response. Sooo, if you run it over an object it says it’s found something and where it’s edges are. That’s the first part. Then the software is detecting how far the object is and then says what it is told to say. For instance, whatever is against the drywall, make that a stud. If it is 3/8 or more off the wall then make it a pipe or cable. That’s it. It can’t tell what it is. Doesn’t know what plastic is or wires are or even a steel pipe. Only distance. It would be nice it it somehow knew what the material is. Nothing on earth so far can do that. Not even my GSSI or Mala systems can do that. I can pick up power though. So can a nice stud finder though. It is a nice tool. Just know what it’s limits are. Happy drilling.
I’m just a foreman and I believe he’s mistake is , that mock-up it’s not code complaint, if he install he’s pipes on right position and cables then maybe work it , cause like you said above , it’s a radar where measure depth
@@LuckyLuciano_1I agree the mock up is incorrect. A code compliant wire is stapled in the middle of the stud. A wire box entry is proud of the sheet rock as well. A pipe is past through the middle of the stud, horizontally and vertically. A more realistic electrical and plumbing installation would clarify the limitations of the device.
It looks like they have perfectly captured the “hit & miss” nature of normal stud finders. You sure wouldn’t want to drill into the wire or PVC pipe thinking it was a stud.
I'm looking at your mockup. I see that the pipe is fastened directly to the drywall and the wire is stapled directly to the drywall also. That is not typical wall construction. I'm guessing the sensor and software expect a stud to be in direct contact with the drywall and all other hidden features to be some distance back. A proper mockup would have had a sandwich of a layer of drywall on both sides of the stud and the wiring and pipe set back some distance greater than 0 inches.
Well I think I demonstrated that if I move the pipe or wire away from the wall they showed up. The issue for me is I have an actual wall with the backside open and there is both pvc, pex and romex and it is not reliably detecting any of those even after multiple calibrations. This is why I decided to just do up a demo wall. If it relies on there being sheetrock on the other side, we’ll that’s not clear in any product documentation or any of the videos I’ve seen elsewhere.
I think you're doing the calibration incorrectly. I think the device has to maintain contact with the wall during and after calibration - but you remove it from the wall - then put it back - and that's when you are getting bad readings. Every time you remove the device from the wall I believe it needs to be re-calibrated.
I don’t think so.. the calibration has you scan the wall and when successfully completed it tells you calibration complete. I do the calibration and wait for the complete message and it’s not my phone on the wall it’s the new model Walabot DIY2. Support watched my video and even apologized I’m not getting the expected the results. The unit has been returned due to the price tag. If the only place you can keep the device is the area you calibrate it, that would be a horrible limitation.
@@rossibytes You have to continue contact with the wall after you calibrate it. If you remove it, you must recalibrate it. I have the original device, and I think that because it is connected to the phone and I only have to use one hand to hold both devices, it seems a lot easier to use than this one. How would you be able to mark the studs if both hands are being used? Sure, you need to set the phone down, but that adds another step and more time.
Why are there so many comments saying “don’t remove it from the wall after calibration”? Calibration ensures that a sensor has the correct context to give you proper readings. After calibrating an instrument it should not have to be recalibrated unless the external variables have changed. At no point does he change external variables. He is testing on one wall as the device is meant to, and he has followed the instructions. Just because the sensors stop detecting something directly in front of them does not mean that they will instantly clear the calibration data, they are still calibrated to that wall and he is still trying to measure that wall. Additionally, I went through the manual and instructional videos provided by Walabot before watching this video and they do not once indicate that you cannot remove the device from the wall. In fact during the videos this happens multiple times. I must say that this review is not perfect, but regardless it does show that the device does not perform as advertised. You spent a lot of money on a poorly made toy, get over it.
"As someone who brags about their qualifications this is a really dumb point for you to make…" I just have another concept of what a calibration represents. I wasn't bragging at all, but sometimes ~50 years in calibrating virtually everything that can be calibrated, including FID, and TC cell based gas chromatographs with NIST reference sources represents some knowledge about calibration standards. So, you think resumes have no value? Write 300 page startup tests for a nuclear power station, and perform them some time. If you think that's bragging, It's likely you simply lack the experience.
Calibrate in small circles inside the stud bay you can use it for hours on one calibration as long as wall finish is similar in the house ur working… I’m a contractor and have had great success when the quick zircon unit is sending mixed signals this unit works very very well if calibrated correctly and expert mode is used
No, it actually works perfectly. When you build/frame, all electrical/plumbing should be run between studs and away from the stud face so drywallers don’t run a screw into them. If you do have pvc touching drywall it was installed improperly.
When you remove the unit from the wall, you remove the calibration you just performed. Also, the chances of a plumbing (your PVC pipe) or electrical (your Romex) line sitting directly against the inside of the drywall is EXTREMELY rare; they are typically fastened to the +/- center of the face of the stud, which will read at a different depth, hence showing a different material (stud, pipe, wire, etc)
So the discriminatory capability is not quite as precise as advertised.So it can only ‘see’ in the open space,anything touching the backside it read as a stud.Oh,well.
Makes sense I’ve never ran into pvc or Rolex. Right against the drywall so as long as someone did the work right. Seems like it works. Should test it on a real wall and see if it reads differently.
This test wall was built and shown in the video after spending over 3 hours on a real wall. On the real wall, there is actual water lines, PVC vent pipe and electrical and the DIY2 did a horrible job of picking them up despite numerous recalibrations and keeping it on the wall after calibrating, etc. I know what and where things should be in the wall because the back side of the wall is not finished and I can see everything in it.
I’ve always understood stud finding where you mark the wall with a pencil and you find 3 to 4 studs and measure the spacing between the studs. If 4 of them are 16 inches apart but one has an extra stud with 10 and 6 inches on each side, you know that extra one probably isn’t a stud. This way if your basic stud finder has an extra hit on the wall, you can assume that it’s probably wire/water and not a stud based on the normal spacing. This device would be nice if it was functional and not dependent on if the wire/water is properly installed to code. Sometimes things are not installed properly behind the drywall and you open the wall and realize “Oh, that’s a surprise. I better fix that while the wall is open. Good thing I decided to open the wall and look before drilling.”
I have one as well and will be returning it. I find it to be very inaccurate. 1 second it shows a stud and then it disappears. I had to use magnets to find studs as it never detected them. Even after I located them did it detect them.
A strong 3 dollar wide magnet is how I find studs then the rest is just using Your X-Ray Power and Knowledge as a Carpenter also only Masters or near the level can have this ability of then following where studs travel.
You obviously don't know how to use it... mine works perfectly. Don't take it off the wall after calibrated . Try again doing it right next time and you'll love this tool 👍
Nope I tried several times on an actual wall and tried multiple times and multiple spots and it was not consistently accurate. I tried keeping it on and taking it off. Thank a for the tip though.
People are saying you can't take it off the wall after calibration...what a useless requirement! So you either have to maintain contact along the wall wherever you move, or rerun the calibration every time you switch position??
First, thank you for taking the time to make this video. I truly believe your intention was to help and inform. However, I think the erroneous readings you got were more due to the flaws in your test wall than the device itself. Consequently, I think this video creates an unfairly negative impression of the device.
@@rossibytesso are you saying the “actual wall” you still received incorrect detections? Or did it identify the wiring and other things properly ? As it should have.. Can you clarify that? Thanks!
Is there any video out there showing pipes and cable running through joists and this scanner picking them up? Most videos are well stages or just conceptually wrong.
Sorry, dude, but you are not following the instructions, according to what these other users are saying. Of course, if that is all it is, and you need to keep the device on the wall after calibration, that would suck, even if it did work. How is one to mark where the studs are, if you have to hold your phone and the device in either hand? Are we to have another person mark where the studs are while we use the device? Not going to happen. I don't think I am going to pay someone to be my stud marker after spending that kind of money on a stud finder. Perhaps the company that makes this thing should build in something that will mark the studs for you. Now that would be amazing! Oh, and if I have to calibrate the thing every time I move to another wall, I may develop a complex of some kind. I think the original version is way better. That way it is only connected to my phone and not to all the other devices on my network. That sounds pretty freaking sketchy to me.
it probably will only detect live wires & metal pipe or pipe with water in it? It may also be cheating by detecting the angle and if it is not straight it would see it as a wire maybe?
You did a good review, but the walabot only detect wire is hot . not just a piece of wire. by the way, also walabot cannot detect PVC pipe . But I don’t know why. But still a good piece of stub finder . just a little pricey.💵💵
That would be fantastic if there’s sensor actually picked up wattage and water temperature but it does not appear as though there system actually detects those items and I did testis on an actual wall with actual electrical running through as well as waterlines
@@rossibytes I appreciate the insight. I've seen in other videos where it differentiate wood from pipes or wires, but it can't tell the difference BETWEEN pipes and wires.The only thing consistent is that this device gives mixed results. I'm not sure what the cost is, but I don't think this tech is mature enough for my dollar yet. Thanks for the video.
Your Calibration is absolutely wrong.. I have no issues whatsoever using this amazing product. Please start with small circle and make sure to cover most of the board because you didn’t cover most of the board..
This was not my only attempt at using this and if you try small circles it tells you to scan a larger area. I spent over 3 hours doing numerous calibrations on an actual wall just off camera that has one side unfinished so I can see everything in it and this device failed to reliably and accurately detect any of the items in the wall.
@@rossibytes I looked at your video again and noticed that you’re removing the device from the wall and trying to calibrate it will not work. I was doing the same way when I first time used it and it was not working and I was very frustrated but when kept it held against the wall had no issues locating the studs, wires and a few pipes.. I love this amazing tool. Is it possible that the one you bought could be defective..
@@fahimnasraty6333 possibly but after trying it on a real wall for 3 hours and multiple calibrations and not removing it from the wall it failed to detect. They watched my video and apologized that it was not working as designed so I’m confident I wasn’t doing something wrong. They gave me the option to get a refund or a replacement. I opted for refund simply due to price
@@rossibytes I do so sorry that it didn’t work for you. For me it has been a lifesaver and hopefully not having issues in the future since it is very expensive compare to other stud finders in the market these days.
You are welcome. I’d recommend checking others out as well as a few folks seem to have good luck but for the steep price tag I’d expect better accuracy
This device ridiculous! Its a STUD FINDER! It needs to be registered, you have to agree to their terms, "they" want access to your photos. How absolutely STUPID is that. Just find the damn stud!
Seems as tho the unit is making ‘assumptions’ as to the difference in materials,which could be disastrous.Seems anything making contact with the drywall is represented as a stud. Nice to be aware of this misleading anomaly.
They claim you could use the expert mode which turns on like a heat map view and the motion of something in the wall would be reflected by a moving colored blob on the heat map but when I tested with my hand behind a wall it didn’t take the shape of my hand but only showed a more concentrated blob where it was.
This this sucks so bad I just tried mine out today and it won’t show a single stud. For all the haters no I am not removing it from the wall after calibration, it still doesn’t work
I was trying to locate a 2 by 6 header and it shows up as a stud , that not good,, for the money it’s not worth it, it’s no better than the old ones, it’s more difficult to calibrate and you have to hold phone in your free hand or set up a stand, again once again stretching the truth in there add, to that is still lying, everyone is lying today
For one (I worked in nuclear field as calib. tech, & instrument engineer) it seems a calibration needs to include other materials behind the wall, not just wood studs. If the device microprocessor only "sees" wood, it has no variations in material density to calibrate with. Thus, it is calibrated as wood being the standard material for the calibration baseline. If, you rotate the calib. process to include the other materials, it may detect the variations, and not define all as wood. Also, try the "expert" mode.
I tried this on this test wall but also a wall I know has wire, pipe and pex and recalibrated in all of those contexts and it still failed to consistently represent the wall. The point of the device is to tell you what’s in your walls to avoid accidents. If this is what you’re solely depending on, it is not accurate enough.
I am no expert on this but here is my thoughts. Now matter what we build, it is an AI and only is as smart as the builder as this is one amazing device. In construction, 99% of wires and pipes are not right up against the Sheetrock but stud. Sheetrock is nailed right on the stud which makes no space between your Sheetrock and stud. The device reads the wire as a stud bc there is no space between the wire and Sheetrock. If you make a gap between the stud and Sheetrock, the device may read the stud as a pipe or wire. The device census the space between the wire and Sheetrock which tells the device what is is looking at. Try this, move your stud away from your wall and see if the stud looks like a wire. Just my thoughts as I am curious to know what happens. Wires are not as perfectly straight like a pipe so a conduit in a wall may show up as a water pipe.
I don't have the device any more. I sent it back. In other comments on this thread I mentioned that I spent about 3 hours trying this with an actual wall where the back side of the wall was still open and all of the construction (studs, pvc, water lines and electrical) were to code/standards and it had a hard time accurately picking those items up. This test/demo wall I built was just something I could try/show at a smaller scale. I realize electrical cable would never be stapled to sheetrock and I realize pvc wouldn't be secure directly to sheetrock. Perhaps I had a defective unit, but it was pretty expensive and as I said, I spent over 3 hours trying every single combination of calibration, keeping it on the wall, etc... having the back of that wall open, I could very easily tell it was not picking up the elements accurately enough for me to ever feel confident drilling into the wall.
If you read the directions youll know what the lights are for. Like most men and the younger generation youll always fail without reading instructions. I would assume if you read the directions it would tell you to initiate the unit on a wall you know nothing is in the wall you're calibrating on.
Calibrate more of the wall, not just over your wood stud. It's only calibrating the wood stud that you're running it over during calibration. It wants to read all the things behind your wall while calibrating, you're not doing that.
As a radar technician that uses $30k to $90k systems everyday and has over 140 hours of training using and understanding radar I can clear some of this up. The unit sends a radio signal out and picks up a return. When you calibrate the unit it sets the avg speed of the signal and a avg response. Sooo, if you run it over an object it says it’s found something and where it’s edges are. That’s the first part. Then the software is detecting how far the object is and then says what it is told to say. For instance, whatever is against the drywall, make that a stud. If it is 3/8 or more off the wall then make it a pipe or cable. That’s it. It can’t tell what it is. Doesn’t know what plastic is or wires are or even a steel pipe. Only distance. It would be nice it it somehow knew what the material is. Nothing on earth so far can do that. Not even my GSSI or Mala systems can do that. I can pick up power though. So can a nice stud finder though. It is a nice tool. Just know what it’s limits are. Happy drilling.
It also has an expert mode which picks up thermal. I imagine water lines would be colder or hotter. Not sure about nonenergized wire or vent pipes.
I’m just a foreman and I believe he’s mistake is , that mock-up it’s not code complaint, if he install he’s pipes on right position and cables then maybe work it , cause like you said above , it’s a radar where measure depth
Thank you for sharing!
@@LuckyLuciano_1I agree the mock up is incorrect.
A code compliant wire is stapled in the middle of the stud. A wire box entry is proud of the sheet rock as well.
A pipe is past through the middle of the stud, horizontally and vertically.
A more realistic electrical and plumbing installation would clarify the limitations of the device.
Do not remove it from the wall after calibration. Watch the training videos! My version 1 works perfectly.
It looks like they have perfectly captured the “hit & miss” nature of normal stud finders. You sure wouldn’t want to drill into the wire or PVC pipe thinking it was a stud.
I'm looking at your mockup. I see that the pipe is fastened directly to the drywall and the wire is stapled directly to the drywall also. That is not typical wall construction. I'm guessing the sensor and software expect a stud to be in direct contact with the drywall and all other hidden features to be some distance back. A proper mockup would have had a sandwich of a layer of drywall on both sides of the stud and the wiring and pipe set back some distance greater than 0 inches.
Well I think I demonstrated that if I move the pipe or wire away from the wall they showed up. The issue for me is I have an actual wall with the backside open and there is both pvc, pex and romex and it is not reliably detecting any of those even after multiple calibrations. This is why I decided to just do up a demo wall. If it relies on there being sheetrock on the other side, we’ll that’s not clear in any product documentation or any of the videos I’ve seen elsewhere.
I think you're doing the calibration incorrectly. I think the device has to maintain contact with the wall during and after calibration - but you remove it from the wall - then put it back - and that's when you are getting bad readings. Every time you remove the device from the wall I believe it needs to be re-calibrated.
I don’t think so.. the calibration has you scan the wall and when successfully completed it tells you calibration complete. I do the calibration and wait for the complete message and it’s not my phone on the wall it’s the new model Walabot DIY2. Support watched my video and even apologized I’m not getting the expected the results. The unit has been returned due to the price tag. If the only place you can keep the device is the area you calibrate it, that would be a horrible limitation.
@@rossibytes You have to continue contact with the wall after you calibrate it. If you remove it, you must recalibrate it.
I have the original device, and I think that because it is connected to the phone and I only have to use one hand to hold both devices, it seems a lot easier to use than this one. How would you be able to mark the studs if both hands are being used? Sure, you need to set the phone down, but that adds another step and more time.
@@jmackinjersey1 🎃
Excellent review, I will keep the old stud finder.
You kept taking it off the wall after calibration 😊
Why are there so many comments saying “don’t remove it from the wall after calibration”? Calibration ensures that a sensor has the correct context to give you proper readings. After calibrating an instrument it should not have to be recalibrated unless the external variables have changed. At no point does he change external variables. He is testing on one wall as the device is meant to, and he has followed the instructions. Just because the sensors stop detecting something directly in front of them does not mean that they will instantly clear the calibration data, they are still calibrated to that wall and he is still trying to measure that wall. Additionally, I went through the manual and instructional videos provided by Walabot before watching this video and they do not once indicate that you cannot remove the device from the wall. In fact during the videos this happens multiple times. I must say that this review is not perfect, but regardless it does show that the device does not perform as advertised. You spent a lot of money on a poorly made toy, get over it.
"As someone who brags about their qualifications this is a really dumb point for you to make…"
I just have another concept of what a calibration represents. I wasn't bragging at all, but sometimes ~50 years in calibrating virtually everything that can be calibrated, including FID, and TC cell based gas chromatographs with NIST reference sources represents some knowledge about calibration standards.
So, you think resumes have no value? Write 300 page startup tests for a nuclear power station, and perform them some time. If you think that's bragging, It's likely you simply lack the experience.
Calibrate in small circles inside the stud bay you can use it for hours on one calibration as long as wall finish is similar in the house ur working… I’m
a contractor and have had great success when the quick zircon unit is sending mixed signals this unit works very very well if calibrated correctly and expert mode is used
You have discovered the “bug” and limitations in their code. Good work.
No, it actually works perfectly. When you build/frame, all electrical/plumbing should be run between studs and away from the stud face so drywallers don’t run a screw into them. If you do have pvc touching drywall it was installed improperly.
Sure, which is perhaps why you would want a scanner to be able to differentiate between them!
It's learning!!!!!
When you remove the unit from the wall, you remove the calibration you just performed. Also, the chances of a plumbing (your PVC pipe) or electrical (your Romex) line sitting directly against the inside of the drywall is EXTREMELY rare; they are typically fastened to the +/- center of the face of the stud, which will read at a different depth, hence showing a different material (stud, pipe, wire, etc)
I think you are on to something with this take. Very rarely are you gonna have wires or pipes really flush up against the drywall
@@DabBerDan47210 😊
@@DabBerDan47210 😊
So the discriminatory capability is not quite as precise as advertised.So it can only ‘see’ in the open space,anything touching the backside it read as a stud.Oh,well.
Makes sense I’ve never ran into pvc or Rolex. Right against the drywall so as long as someone did the work right. Seems like it works. Should test it on a real wall and see if it reads differently.
This test wall was built and shown in the video after spending over 3 hours on a real wall. On the real wall, there is actual water lines, PVC vent pipe and electrical and the DIY2 did a horrible job of picking them up despite numerous recalibrations and keeping it on the wall after calibrating, etc. I know what and where things should be in the wall because the back side of the wall is not finished and I can see everything in it.
It's a novelty. An expensive, novelty.
@@rossibytes maybe you received a defective unit. Mine works good
I’ve always understood stud finding where you mark the wall with a pencil and you find 3 to 4 studs and measure the spacing between the studs. If 4 of them are 16 inches apart but one has an extra stud with 10 and 6 inches on each side, you know that extra one probably isn’t a stud.
This way if your basic stud finder has an extra hit on the wall, you can assume that it’s probably wire/water and not a stud based on the normal spacing.
This device would be nice if it was functional and not dependent on if the wire/water is properly installed to code. Sometimes things are not installed properly behind the drywall and you open the wall and realize “Oh, that’s a surprise. I better fix that while the wall is open. Good thing I decided to open the wall and look before drilling.”
little bit of an issue here. wires/pipes are never fastened to the drywall. you're also missing insulation?
I have one as well and will be returning it. I find it to be very inaccurate. 1 second it shows a stud and then it disappears. I had to use magnets to find studs as it never detected them. Even after I located them did it detect them.
Everytime you take it off the wall it needs calibration
Thanks for this!
A strong 3 dollar wide magnet is how I find studs then the rest is just using Your X-Ray Power and Knowledge as a Carpenter also only Masters or near the level can have this ability of then following where studs travel.
You obviously don't know how to use it... mine works perfectly.
Don't take it off the wall after calibrated . Try again doing it right next time and you'll love this tool 👍
Nope I tried several times on an actual wall and tried multiple times and multiple spots and it was not consistently accurate. I tried keeping it on and taking it off. Thank a for the tip though.
People are saying you can't take it off the wall after calibration...what a useless requirement! So you either have to maintain contact along the wall wherever you move, or rerun the calibration every time you switch position??
Very interesting I have one arriving today.This could be a big problem
Hey how did it go with yours?
First, thank you for taking the time to make this video. I truly believe your intention was to help and inform. However, I think the erroneous readings you got were more due to the flaws in your test wall than the device itself. Consequently, I think this video creates an unfairly negative impression of the device.
I'd agree, however I had the same results with an actual wall, that I hadn't thought to record at the time, thus why I built this test wall.
@@rossibytesso are you saying the “actual wall” you still received incorrect detections? Or did it identify the wiring and other things properly ? As it should have..
Can you clarify that? Thanks!
Is there any video out there showing pipes and cable running through joists and this scanner picking them up? Most videos are well stages or just conceptually wrong.
How deep does it scan. I need it to go through hardie plank and plywood at the same time.
Sorry, dude, but you are not following the instructions, according to what these other users are saying. Of course, if that is all it is, and you need to keep the device on the wall after calibration, that would suck, even if it did work. How is one to mark where the studs are, if you have to hold your phone and the device in either hand? Are we to have another person mark where the studs are while we use the device? Not going to happen. I don't think I am going to pay someone to be my stud marker after spending that kind of money on a stud finder. Perhaps the company that makes this thing should build in something that will mark the studs for you. Now that would be amazing! Oh, and if I have to calibrate the thing every time I move to another wall, I may develop a complex of some kind. I think the original version is way better. That way it is only connected to my phone and not to all the other devices on my network. That sounds pretty freaking sketchy to me.
it probably will only detect live wires & metal pipe or pipe with water in it? It may also be cheating by detecting the angle and if it is not straight it would see it as a wire maybe?
Great job
Good video. For the same reason I use magnit
You did a good review, but the walabot only detect wire is hot . not just a piece of wire. by the way, also walabot cannot detect PVC pipe . But I don’t know why.
But still a good piece of stub finder . just a little pricey.💵💵
I'm thinking that the wire should have live power on it and the pipe should have water in it to distinguish them from a stud.
That would be fantastic if there’s sensor actually picked up wattage and water temperature but it does not appear as though there system actually detects those items and I did testis on an actual wall with actual electrical running through as well as waterlines
@@rossibytes I appreciate the insight. I've seen in other videos where it differentiate wood from pipes or wires, but it can't tell the difference BETWEEN pipes and wires.The only thing consistent is that this device gives mixed results. I'm not sure what the cost is, but I don't think this tech is mature enough for my dollar yet. Thanks for the video.
@@Hank-ski Bingo!
@@Hank-ski buy the way it’s about $160 and if you want the case with it it’s over $200
Your Calibration is absolutely wrong.. I have no issues whatsoever using this amazing product. Please start with small circle and make sure to cover most of the board because you didn’t cover most of the board..
This was not my only attempt at using this and if you try small circles it tells you to scan a larger area. I spent over 3 hours doing numerous calibrations on an actual wall just off camera that has one side unfinished so I can see everything in it and this device failed to reliably and accurately detect any of the items in the wall.
@@rossibytes
I looked at your video again and noticed that you’re removing the device from the wall and trying to calibrate it will not work. I was doing the same way when I first time used it and it was not working and I was very frustrated but when kept it held against the wall had no issues locating the studs, wires and a few pipes.. I love this amazing tool. Is it possible that the one you bought could be defective..
@@fahimnasraty6333 possibly but after trying it on a real wall for 3 hours and multiple calibrations and not removing it from the wall it failed to detect. They watched my video and apologized that it was not working as designed so I’m confident I wasn’t doing something wrong. They gave me the option to get a refund or a replacement. I opted for refund simply due to price
@@rossibytes
I do so sorry that it didn’t work for you. For me it has been a lifesaver and hopefully not having issues in the future since it is very expensive compare to other stud finders in the market these days.
What if you don’t have wifi or where you are working do not have electricity .the equipment depends of the wifi that is. Bat point .
Can it find studs in an exterior wall with vynl siding and OSB sheathing?
You took it off the wall after the calibration, that cancels the calibration.
Almost bought one thanks for the video Sir.
You are welcome. I’d recommend checking others out as well as a few folks seem to have good luck but for the steep price tag I’d expect better accuracy
This device ridiculous! Its a STUD FINDER! It needs to be registered, you have to agree to their terms, "they" want access to your photos. How absolutely STUPID is that. Just find the damn stud!
Seems as tho the unit is making ‘assumptions’ as to the difference in materials,which could be disastrous.Seems anything making contact with the drywall is represented as a stud.
Nice to be aware of this misleading anomaly.
Can i find dead animals and nests with it
They claim you could use the expert mode which turns on like a heat map view and the motion of something in the wall would be reflected by a moving colored blob on the heat map but when I tested with my hand behind a wall it didn’t take the shape of my hand but only showed a more concentrated blob where it was.
You’re not supposed to take it off after you calibrate
This had happened to me, too
Somebody, just invent a stud finder that you put a battery in and it finds the STUDS!!!! Geeezzz!!!!
Mine correctly identified wire, pipe and studs
This this sucks so bad I just tried mine out today and it won’t show a single stud. For all the haters no I am not removing it from the wall after calibration, it still doesn’t work
I was trying to locate a 2 by 6 header and it shows up as a stud , that not good,, for the money it’s not worth it, it’s no better than the old ones, it’s more difficult to calibrate and you have to hold phone in your free hand or set up a stand, again once again stretching the truth in there add, to that is still lying, everyone is lying today
Romex is not energized. There is no water in pipe.
I guess if the Romeo where energized, would be different
Kinda long winded, but helpful. I'm not going to spend this kind of money to be misinformed that romex is a stud. I'll pass on this one.
I see with all these finders, the first thing you need to do is know exactly what's behind your wall and where. Then you can find it
Ha ha...
For one (I worked in nuclear field as calib. tech, & instrument engineer) it seems a calibration needs to include other materials behind the wall, not just wood studs. If the device microprocessor only "sees" wood, it has no variations in material density to calibrate with. Thus, it is calibrated as wood being the standard material for the calibration baseline. If, you rotate the calib. process to include the other materials, it may detect the variations, and not define all as wood. Also, try the "expert" mode.
I tried this on this test wall but also a wall I know has wire, pipe and pex and recalibrated in all of those contexts and it still failed to consistently represent the wall. The point of the device is to tell you what’s in your walls to avoid accidents. If this is what you’re solely depending on, it is not accurate enough.
I can't say for sure, but everything I've seen indicates that the calibration was not done properly in this video, hence the poor results.
I am no expert on this but here is my thoughts. Now matter what we build, it is an AI and only is as smart as the builder as this is one amazing device. In construction, 99% of wires and pipes are not right up against the Sheetrock but stud. Sheetrock is nailed right on the stud which makes no space between your Sheetrock and stud. The device reads the wire as a stud bc there is no space between the wire and Sheetrock. If you make a gap between the stud and Sheetrock, the device may read the stud as a pipe or wire. The device census the space between the wire and Sheetrock which tells the device what is is looking at. Try this, move your stud away from your wall and see if the stud looks like a wire. Just my thoughts as I am curious to know what happens. Wires are not as perfectly straight like a pipe so a conduit in a wall may show up as a water pipe.
I don't have the device any more. I sent it back. In other comments on this thread I mentioned that I spent about 3 hours trying this with an actual wall where the back side of the wall was still open and all of the construction (studs, pvc, water lines and electrical) were to code/standards and it had a hard time accurately picking those items up. This test/demo wall I built was just something I could try/show at a smaller scale. I realize electrical cable would never be stapled to sheetrock and I realize pvc wouldn't be secure directly to sheetrock. Perhaps I had a defective unit, but it was pretty expensive and as I said, I spent over 3 hours trying every single combination of calibration, keeping it on the wall, etc... having the back of that wall open, I could very easily tell it was not picking up the elements accurately enough for me to ever feel confident drilling into the wall.
Anything touching the wall is only stud...no installer put PVC pipes against to the wall it wouldn't pass inspection...
Why did you take it off the wall after calibration...you have to stay in contact
lost me at the 7 mins point....this video could easily have been done in 10 mins. wasting time talking thru eevveerryy single step.
Who needs training videos? Apparently you do lol
Holy shit that is scary
yea 160.00 rip off
If you read the directions youll know what the lights are for. Like most men and the younger generation youll always fail without reading instructions. I would assume if you read the directions it would tell you to initiate the unit on a wall you know nothing is in the wall you're calibrating on.
Seems very inaccurate and inconsistent to me. I would not trust this device
Calibrate more of the wall, not just over your wood stud. It's only calibrating the wood stud that you're running it over during calibration. It wants to read all the things behind your wall while calibrating, you're not doing that.