Generator Engine Rebuild (Take 2) - 10HP Briggs and Stratton
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- This engine I pulled off a Briggs and Stratton Storm Reponder generator. It had run out of oil and the connecting rod seized and broke. I replaced the connecting rod and cylinder, cleaned up the crankshaft and cylinder and put it together. Unfortunately the rebuilt engine had a knock. The crankshaft was out of spec. At the time I did not have the proper tooling to measure things up. Now I do. Lets see if I can get this thing right the second time.
Blown Up Engine Model# 21T212-0116-G1 Code: 110106YD
Crankshaft Part# BS-794718
This engine came from the this generator: • Blown Generator Engine...
Part 1: • Generator Engine Rebui...
Part 2: • Storm Responder Genera...
Part 3: This video
Part 4: • Will It Make Power Aga...
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Sir:
I am impressed with your logic and trouble shooting . Wish your were a auto shop teacher when I was in school.your a great teacher.
I did feel a need to mention two things
1. Back in 1955 chevrolet came out with insert rod bearings
Before that old motor manuals showed how to grind, file, sand caps and shim rod to crank for proper clearances.
My dad use to fit by feel then we used plastic gauge when it came out.
The pressure is on the top and bottom of rod not as much on the sides where the bolts are. Also being oil drip / splash lubrication it actually let's more oil in.
This technique always worked for us especially when the engines were not that far out of the spec .by 001 to .003 curing the knock.
Of course this was for the old two and a half to three and a half horsepower motors.
Bottom line they ran for hundreds of hours afterwards. We put a lot of these mix and match left over used parts motors together for gardeners.
2. We always would use sand paper ( 600 to 1,500 grit ) on a machined flat surface to lap in block and heads surfaces to show and remove warpage and low spots as we only had wire brushes and gasket scrapers which removed more than just gasket material ( softer aluminum back then ? ) Which would lead to head gaskets leaking / blowing after only a few hours ( 20 plus).
Not criticism just old school to save a buck and use all the life possible out of engine.
Mike
P.S.
I was talking about lawn movers engines not Chevrolet motors just a reference of where to find procedure
Your trick of the wet sandpaper and rope to polish the crank's rod journal is quite clever (and effective). I've not seen it done quite like that, and definitely will remember that. Thanks for another great video! Be well, stay safe and God bless. Rev. D.
This sanding method probably removes more material from the middle of the crankshaft journal.
I was really hoping that you measured the NEW Crank too....so that we could see the difference.
Should have put that into the video. I checked it and it was exactly where a new crankshaft should have been.
I like your sanding method.on the crank shaft journal you got the skills to make a engine out many broke one,s
Great video. One trick taught to me 50 years ago is to use a 1/2 impact gun/socket in reverse to remove the flywheel nut. Alters the polar moment of inertia required such that you don't even have to hold the flywheel with your left hand with the impact in the right hand. Takes less than a second. No need for ratchet strap. The nut spins right off, but the flywheel doesn't rotate. You won't believe it, but its true. Great also for removing nuts on alternator pulleys, power steering pulleys etc. Kind regards, Craig
Mr James, when fiddling with the governor adjusting tab, I made a tool. Get a piece of 3/8 round bar and use your dremel tool to make a slot to fit the tab about 1/2 inch deep. Make the bar about 12 inches then bend the last couple inches to a 90 degree angle. This way it can be adjusted from the recoil side without removing the tank or fighting anything.
On the connecting rod journal, I would have checked with Plastigage to obtain the clearance. Cheap and easy to use to determine if you are within tolerance. Also, I believe that the rod is linebored when manufactured and direction of the cap is only one way or the tolerance will be off.
You stand correct!
Going to say the same thing. Plastigage is what I would have gone with also.
James, I could really use that piston from the used engine you disassembled. Please contact me. Ken gave you my contact information. Thank you sir and have a good day
Those storm responders need to have a low oil shut off. I'd rather deal with a faulty oil level switch than a engine replacement.
Very well said, I agree!
Absolutely. Every one else does.
@@mikesbarn1858 You'd think that there would be a mod that would screw into one of the oil fills. A lot of those engines have two oil fill location. Someone needs to go to invent help with that one.
Don’t forget about generator safety as well ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html stay safe everyone
true they do need one. maybe there a way to put one in. maybe james knows or someone else.
I've been following you for several months and find your methods very instructional. I also appreciate your honesty and determination to provide your customers a fair shake. You are a credit to your profession or hobby in small engine repair. I learn something every session.
Thanks
Purrs like a kitten. I really needed a generator here in Texas!
Feel sorry for you guys out there. Hope things get better soon.
If I had the time, would load up my trailer and head down. Not much demand for them up here at the moment. Hopefully things warm up soon.
@@jcondon1 and 2 days later yes, it has warmed up quite a bit ..
I appreciate you going back and finding the noise inside the 10hp engine. That is a sign of a man who hungers for knowledge. Watching you trouble shoot problems teaches me alot about engines. You do fine work.
Straight ammonia takes a bit longer, but it eats the hell out of soft metals. It's used in some of the more rugged firearm bore solvents to remove lead and copper fouling. Make sure you don't breathe it.
For as much as you were charged for that crankshaft I would have called and let them know about it there shouldn't have been so much crap on it. But you have taken things from the dead and revived them. Thanks for sharing your video with us, Ed
They wouldn't listen.
Thanks for providing the torq specs! Not surprised by the condition of the crank. I think these support parts probably sit around a while because we have become a throwaway society.
I would agree. This one probably sat on a shelf for a decade.
I enjoy watching you fix those generators. I have a 1988 Honda EM2000X and if it has a fit I hope I can recall any of your videos to help me fix it, low usage but ya never know. Between you, Bruce Pender and Donny Boy 73, I have learned so much. Thanks.
James, its sad that you had to buy a new crankshaft and it gets shipped in the condition that it was! That should of had all the machined surfaces protected with a rust preventive and packaged to prevent damage. Great rebuild! I wonder if those used cranks were out of spec from the factory. Conflicting briggs specs from the paperwork would make me nervous. 👍🇺🇸Roger
I sent two back that were brand new
Out of specks
I've rebuilt automobile engines. One thing you learn real quick is to measure parts and clearances. All mechanical parts have tolerances. If there is not enough clearance between the rod journal and the connecting rod expect there will be problems. As one subscriber suggested "Plasti Gauge" is a good for checking the journal clearance. Good video all around.
Somewhere there's a voice saying........ It's a lawn mower engine, not the space shuttle. I appreciate you sharing your "hard learning" experiences too. When it comes to any new to you skill, practice makes better.
Well said!
Good morning James buddy.. watching with a mug of coffee
SOOOOO much better workmanship than what passes for "Factory Refurbished" nowadays !!!
Excellent vid on using the mikes to check specs seams that there’s such a small margin as to how little has to be removed from the crank to make it out of spec. I wish James you would have played the engine knocking compared to fixed at the end of your repair so we could learn to be more sensitive in our hearing to hear what you are hearing. Thanks
I rebuilt one more than 10 years ago. It was used at a construction site. The crank can't be more than 1/2 of a 1000ths off. Mine was fine after I scrapped all the aluminum that stuck to it off. I've used the heck out of it ever since. Store it dry. The tough part was getting the armature to disconnect from the crank without the proper tools. Hit it just right and it came out.
Ok, so you gave me the bug. I went out and bought an abused basket case. You perfectly cover all of what I have run into so far in several of your videos. But….I think I may have a symptom I haven’t seen covered by you yet. This one has a stuck governor shaft. If I can’t use Blaster to free it up I guess I’ll have to split the engine to get at it. Furthermore while pulling it over with the head off I think I may be hearing a knock from the rod journal. So thankfully you have covered all this and I have watched and learned. I may have bought a bucket of bolts but you have to start somewhere. Thank you for making such clear and well edited videos.
Good luck! Sometimes it takes a lot to bring them back.
Years ago, I was tasked to determine why aircraft mechanics were breaking helicopter engine to rotor driveline bolts upon installation. When you install a bolt, the critical parameter isn't torque, but the bolt "pre-load" or better said, clamping force from the bolt. Torque is a just an easy way of measuring bolt pre-load or clamping force. What I determined, by the review of literature as well as laboratory testing, is that torque as a measure of pre-load is accurate to about plus or minus 50 percent. Especially when you compare dry, clean threads versus threads with oil or lubricant on them. In my case, if I had a minimum-acceptable strength bolt, with threads that were not perfectly clean and contaminated with oil, threads that were cut versus rolled, and a torque wrench that was at the high end of calibration, a mechanic applying the proper torque could break a driveline bolt! So I'm not surprised that you have seen wide-variation in torque specs on the same bolt in the same engine across different sources of service information. That said, I do feel that using a torque wrench is important and I applaud your rigorous use of a torque wrench in your videos. Not to get the exact amount of pre-load, but to get an equal amount of pre-load. For the engine cover, 100 lb-ft versus 200 lb-ft likely doesn't make much difference. What would be a problem is if you tightened one to say, 25 lb-ft, and others to 300 lb-ft. :) Really enjoy your videos! To close the loop on my story, we ended up raising the minimum strength of the bolts and the breaking stopped. :)
Thanks for the comment. I agree completely. It is more important to get consistent pre-load. You would be surprised at what I see on some of these straight from the manufacturer. Some important bolts are barely finger tight and not torqued consistent. Thankfully this is not an aircraft. I usually go a little light. A stripped out or broken bolt will cause a lot more problems in the case of a small engine then one that is torqued to the max value. And as you mentioned, there are a lot a variables like thread quality, dry/wet, the wrench used etc... I see a lot of people on UA-cam using an impact to tighten bolts and that is always a bad idea. There is not feedback on how tight the bolt really is.
It's hard to get people to understand the number of factors affecting screw torque and how these all need to be specified. Lubrication and anti-seize treatment applied to the bolt before assembly. The material you are threading into. The type of material the screw is (I.E stainless, carbon steel, etc.). Also plating on the fastener like cadmium or zinc. I always liked to use a cadillac gauge to measure the fastener stretch if I could.
14:10 I'd still use that crank to be honest. It's within the tolerance of most calipers and the one spot under spec is fairly small. It's worn, but still useable.
I agree. Especially after seeing the "new" crank. Have since picked up another blown 10hp Briggs engine and that crank was perfect. So now have two ready to go.
@@jcondon1 Good
Hi James, also thoroughly enjoyed this with my morning coffee, nice way to start the day. Excellent video. I replaced a connecting rod a few weeks ago, at least a 2 hour job. Can't believe those storm responds don't have an oil sensor either. A very satisfying video !! ty
Thanks. They are a good engines. A generator can run for days in end. An oil sensor is not optional.
I have learned so much about small engine repair from watching your videos. I now have the confidence to clean a dirty carb, and so much more myself. Your diagnostic skills are confidence builders. Thanks for explaining everything so clearly. Small engine repair in the area I live is a joke. The first question they ask you is how old is it, followed by it's not worth the effort.
Same here. Before I started small engine work, dropped my mower off for service and the spring and got it back in the fall. Plus they had it outside all year and it look a 100x older. Was not impressed.
Keep up the good work, James!!
well, I blame you, today I did it after watching way too many of your videos I ordered one for myself. Yep, I'm 3 blocks from my neighborhood substation and only lost power 2 times in 35 years of living in this house but because of you, I wanted one of my own. Thanks, James thanks :)
Ok, living in Oregon with the fires all around this summer and now with the snowstorms up Portland and the Texas mess I thought it was only a matter of time that I'll need one!
But still, I'll blame you!!!
Dave, in oregon
Ciao James, ottimo sistema per carteggiare l'albero motore; ho imparato date un'altra cosa interessante! Grazie!
Fantastic job of diagnosing the parts that would work and those that wouldn't. Very surprised at the crappy condition of the new crank. Thanks for the video.
Makes me second guess not using the one that was mostly in spec that was run without oil.
Without high dollar precision measuring tools, a second option is to torque the connecting rod to the crank with plasti guage and measure that with the cheap cardboard guage that comes with it and you will know if you have proper clearance
Yes, just did that in my most recent video.
James, You have so many of the old engines and have put a couple together, it would be very interesting to us for you to see if you could add an oil low shutoff to a test bed engine? I think it would make for good video!
Have thought about adding one, but the parts new are $100+. Recently picked up a Briggs 9 hp generator engine with an oil sensor. It blew the rod. Not sure yet the reason. Potentially the oil sensor did not work?
Nice job again! Can't believe it started on the first pull. 👍👍👍
About removing aluminum deposits on the crank journal, try using Brasso or its silver cleaner. I haven't used this before but they are cleaners and might work. Other good cleaners that are found in homes are baking soda and vinegar. Thanks for posting, always enjoy your videos.
What makes these engines run out of oil? just acquired one of these used and it runs like a champ. It is an 18-year-old Generac when it was owned by Briggs so it has this engine and the same set up. I’ve run it quite a bit since I changed the oil and restored it, it had a bad carburetor, and I had to flash the generator. But mine does not seem to use oil. In fact, it doesn’t smoke or anything. I know it’s typical for most engines to use just a little bit of oil unless it’s like a Honda or something but I do keep a close check on my engines and don’t let them run out of oil.
Nice job. I like your honesty deciding to change the crank. One person commented the crank was a knock off. Based on the way it was shipped and minor flaws it’s possible. Nothing is straightforward any more.
I would agree. The original crank was made differently and better. Would not buy a new crank again from Amazon.
Best I can figure is there must be some subliminal messages in these videos that say: "You must watch all Condon videos, You must watch all Condon videos...". I say that because there is no way I'm ever going to do most of the stuff you do but I am totally addicted to watching every one of your vids. You really do make it look like I could do it. But, my wife would disagree. And, to be honest, so do I. Can't wait for your next...wait...hmm. Is my brain being manipulated?
James, enjoy your videos. Did you happen to measure the new crankshaft journal to see how the original dimensions compare to specs ? Thanks for all the time you spend creating top quality videos.
I bet it’s nearly out of specks or out
Great video James - as always. Now know where to go if I get my hands on a blown engine. Thanks
James I did have the same same concern about the muriatic acid my concern was that I was hoping you were wearing a breathing protector it can cause inseparable damaged to you smelling and to your lungs just wear protective gear and don't spill it, or get it on you.
One of these days, I'd like to see you do a propane / natural gas conversion on a gasoline generator. Just a thought. Might be interesting.
Me too! Talk to Hue at US Carb, his company makes the snorkel!
Just buy a real dual fuel carb on eBay for $30 don’t mess around with the fire hazards half-a$$ed “snorkel type” conversions, they are complete garbage, just because they run doesn’t mean you’re getting proper air fuel ratios the way a demand regulator carb does.
Persistence paid off, another good sounding engine Doc.
Thanks
Comstar 99% pure lye on Amazon. Also, would you consider using Sealed Power Plastigage , there are several clearance ranges, to measure bearing to shaft journal clearances? Also found on Amazon. Thanks, love your videos!
Generator safety ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html
James I have torn down new Briggs engines with warrants that were' out of spec back in the 1980s !🔧
Still happening to
Wow...the bean counters demanded.."no bag around the crank before boxing!!" Save that 2 cents!! But hey..it's a lawn mower part, not a space shuttle part :) ( As another of our favorite youtubers would say! )
Glad to see you were able to get it running well with the new crankshaft. PRO-GRADE to do it the right way and to spec since you will be selling it. Starting on first pull will give you some swagger too! I've not gotten the chance to touch the Storm Responder I picked up a few weeks ago. Need to get to it as we just had power outages here in NC and I didn't have it ready to sell. ☹️👎 Keep em coming and great work as always, James!
People always talk bad about the Nikki carbs, but the work well on the 10 HP fixed speed storm responder. My mother-in-law is in NC. She lost power when a tornado struck 2 miles away. My inventory is reaching critical. Hopefully things start selling soon or I will have to start fixing lawn mowers...
@@jcondon1 Yeah I hear ya. I've got mowers blowers, weed eaters and chainsaws that are getting in the way so I'm ready for the Spring mowing season to start down here. I need to quit shopping so I quit BUYING. That reminds me, I have a blower I'm supposed to pickup this weekend. 😕
I forgot about the pressure washers getting in the way too.
Just been watching the news about the Texan 'Big Freeze' - Especially all those turtles! I reckon there'll be a few folk down there who would appreciate a decent generator right now. The irony is, we have a few small generators stored away in a shipping container, but we must be about 5'000 miles away from Texas!
Yes, with these small engines, appearances can be deceptive, and what looks good isn't always up to spec, and sometimes, what is up to spec doesn't always look so good. I guess that generator will be worth the $ in the end, because that engine must have a healthy price tag, what with cost of parts, and then your time working on it. At the risk of sounding like a schadenfreude, it's good to know we're not the only ones who sometimes get caught out with these things.
James rubber hose on piston rod bolts would protect cylinder and crank from scratches
Very good. I wonder if those tolerences are critical. Nice comment regarding caustic soda!
Another great video JAMES! I like that caliper you were using to measure the cam lobes.
Also it’s unreal some products that come from Amazon, like that Crankshaft. You would think, like you said,......should be perfect when you buy something new!!
Generator safety ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html
James a quick question, is it still profitable on this rebuild between the parts and your time...or is this more a hobby...I enjoy your content
This one was a break even on parts and a loss if you factor in labor. Just a hobby, so ok with breaking even sometimes.
Plus UA-cam money if there is any!
I've used cranks farther out than yours. Just run a heavier oil and let it rip. I never had one blow up because of a galled crank. Everyone knows that the lack of oil kills these engines. And by the way. By sending information out like you've got on clearances, I wonder if the people producing small engine performance sheets are building satellite parts?
I agree. I am pretty sure that crank would have been fine. But hard to use with 25k subscribers looking on.
an out of spec crank can be used on a briggs, using a large flatfile or a bench disc sander, take a little off each side of the conrod(the flat surfaces that mate when bolting it together) a little at a time.
(would I sell it to someone like this? no. but it does work.)
as the crank gets worn it wears an egg shape, usually the conrod does too, this takes up the slack a little, if its not super bad, you can get away with this.
my lawn mowers been running the last 10 years with this fix
Thanks for the tip. Makes sense and can only improve things if done right.
It appears the lack of mechanical savy is not compatible with owning a generator. "Check the oil pudden head!" Congrats on your new strap wrench which you will use often, even when tightening the flywheel. Hydrochloric acid and aluminum react to produce aluminum chloride and colorless hydrogen gas so to be safe, do it outside. Love the trick of wrapping some heavy string around the emery paper. :-)
One thing you could have done the first time was to use plastic gage to check the rod clearances to the crank and you should check the end play in the crank. Other than that you do a better job then the factory putting things together. Thanks for the videos.
All those engines look fairly new why were they out of oil and if I would have received the crankshaft from Briggs & Stratton that looked like that I would have been making some phone calls.... Anyway instead of rebuilding I would have bought another engine.. that's me time saving... Great video thanks
They did run out of oil. Buying a new or used engine in working condition would have made more sense. At the time I needed a 10hp engine and no used ones were available. Thought I could rebuild it for $150. Turned out to be twice that. Would not do it again unless I had a good used crankshaft.
Excellent rebuild..i like the way you torq the bolts in the critical areas..the generator you put that motor on should be fine..
See you on the next one..Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
That new crankshaft should have been dipped or sprayed with cos moline before packing. Maybe even have one of those plastic mesh screens put over part of it.
Definitely
Good morning James. Another engine to use for another powerhead.
Guys this is basically, in a nutshell, for most of us tinkerers, the best OJT / hands-on learning videos along with Ken's channel. What more could you ask for than kicking back in a recliner with hot coffee and never get your hands dirty......or a back ache. Eventually I'm gonna bi*ch enough that James will get a lift table.
LOL. My back and knees are very good (for now). Will have to get a lift at some point. Not long before the big 5-0.
I have wondered the same thing about working on the floor all the time. Take care of those knees my friend:) great videos
@@jcondon1 You'll pay later for the damage you're doing now...
The way that one generator engine that you said was knocking the way that one sound it is exactly how the one I had that I was telling you about sounded and it was a Briggs & Stratton five HP Briggs
Caustic soda is the way to go. It will dissolve aluminium and magnesium alloys but won't touch the steel. I don't know what a new crank costs, but a valid fix would be to spray weld and turn the crank back to spec on a lathe.
For future reference, if you need lye in an easy to use container., Most oven cleaners that say to not to expose yourself to the fumes, contain lye, and it’s a spray.
Thanks for the tip
Any chance you could make a detailed video/s testing and trouble shooting generators for repair? Explaining how each part works and what it’s supposed to be and/or known good
I kinda did that, but have not released that video yet. Here is a link to it ua-cam.com/video/NFl8nWs3ib4/v-deo.html
Very cool. Can't wait to see it installed on the other blown Responder. Nice job.
Thanks. That will be next week with any luck.
That was an excellent video. I had a 10 H.P. Briggs engines in my shop this month with broken compression release cams, and one 23 H.P. Also one with an exhaust valve guide pushed up into the valve spring in the head. Why are the Storm Responders using that much oil, that they are blowing up? or are people just to lazy to check the oil? Also are you getting any Champion generators in to fix? I had one with a plugged up exhaust spark arrestor and the engine oil was extremely sticky. Had to flush it out four times to clean it up. Thanks for great video's.
.
Just came across your Channel. You are doing a great job. I admire your skill and patience. I am now a full-time subscribed to your Channel
Awesome! Thank you!
Good to see someone doing it the right way instead of that will do great job James 👍👍 i learnt a lot
Thanks 👍
You done a great job of teaching
If they don’t get it then it’s not there thing to do 😊😊😊
James, Thanks to your informative and instructive videos, I feel reasonably comfortable in buying a used B&S Storm Responder, and doing the repairs and maintenance myself. I can't afford a new generator. I have a question re: THD...Is there such a thing as a post generator THD filter. Would.a surge protector work for this problem? .Would B&S have something like a THD filter? Is it safe to use this generator, as is, for TVs,PCs, etc.? Your kindness and generosity are most appreciated by hundreds of your followers, especially me! Thanks, again
There is nothing cost effective for reducing THD. Your best bet for clean power is an inverter generator. The storm responder like the one in the video have lower THD then most non inverter generators. Still high, but better then most.
@@jcondon1 Thank You, James! I guess I would need an invertor of 5 to 8KW. Would you recommend a few for my consideration?...again, thanks so much !
just an Idea, maybe on a bad block you can experiment with a low oil shutoff addition.
Have you ever considered putting one of the Harbor Freight Honda closes on one of these generators. May be too expensive?
They don't have the tapered crank shaft for the generator head to fit.
We tore down a brand New b/s 7.25 the other day just to mic every thing
Very surprised that 3 items were out of b/S specks
You should do the same and show people the truth
Another great video. You must have the patience of Job.
Perfect parts from manufacturers are a thing from bygone days. You should think yourself fortunate they bothered to put some rust prevention wax on it after machining. You really need to manage your expectations lol. You got the part in a day, reasonable price for what it is, I'm sure it's machined well, it will be CNC after all, and they made sure it didn't get rusty in storage and transport. RESULT!!!
I wonder if a machine shop would give you a deal on a batch of cranks. Also, some big farms have equipment to do crank work off season.
Very nice work, and I always pick up some useful tips along the way. Thanks!
IT'S NOT THE SPACE SHUTTLE!
@@hester781 wtf
@@queenstownkid ua-cam.com/video/GsQ9XnD80gY/v-deo.html
@@queenstownkid watch the video, at 6 minutes and 30 seconds in lol
@@hester781 he was getting his point across lol thx man
* Shpaysh Shuttle
The out of spec cranks could be made to work with oversized bearings or shims, assuming the cranks were still mostly round. Shims would be less desirable because they cause other problems.
Nicks and scratches are ok as long as you knock off the high spots with a file. VERY CAREFULLY !!! What's more important is the clearances,
hi james good video mate, and on the first pull good looking gene ,will last some one a life time with that engine
I hope so, as long as they check the oil.
Seems the cranks are at the limit to start with, had one 10 with only 2 hours and crank was out of specks
Funny if the one you just picked up has a good crank.
Jim, thanks for including the torque settings in the video. Question: did you decide against getting a hydraulic lift table? Just curious. Nest regards. Jim.
Will get one at some point. Back and knees are still good.
@@jcondon1 Will you wait that they are not good before you buy a lift. I have watch a lot of your videos and learn a lot. Thank you very much. Now I have repaired one but not on the floor. I put it on the bench in order to save my back and knees. I think that a lift is a must in your hobby work.
FYI Drano drain cleaner is Sodium Hydroxide.
Did you put the governor gear in I didn't see that that's a very important piece of the operation of that engine?
It is on the crankcase cover. Was not visible from the angle I was recording.
If you’d ordered the crankshaft straight from Briggs, it probably would not have been in that dirty condition . How long had it set on Amazon‘s warehouse shelf though?
The assembly lube looks like a super slick product. How might it be used for other than assembly?
If you have a machine shop around you might see if it cost effective to have those crank journals built up. Disappointed to see the new crank looking like that.
A-0.010” crank grind with an underside rod will work and be cheaper.
Do not see any undersized rods available on the parts diagram. Where would one go for that? Engine# 21T212-0116-G1
Me too. Will looking into getting them machined.
As for the lye shortage, most heavy duty drain cleaners are 100% lye. I use it in a homemade metal bluing solution.
Did you check out the option of getting the cranks polished or cut and buying a oversized connecting rod ?
Still looking into that. I have 5 crankshafts now for this engine that need work. Would rather use those after being repaired then the NEW one...
Out of curiosity, did you measure the new crank and confirm the Briggs book wasn’t over optimistic?
I did, but don't think I left that it. It was dead on the new spec.
@@jcondon1 thanks James! So it let the reject spec, or was above the reject? I suppose I’m unclear on the spec. I figured it was the minimum acceptable value. So if it was that, that means it would quickly wear below that, no?
Good Build, thanks for the video James.
You bet
Most machine shops will regrind those crankshafts for a small fee , but can you get undersize bearings/connecting rods for the motors , if not the machine shop can undersize the connecting rods for you , anyway some machine shops can grind the crankshafts for you !!!!
Yes, been looking. Have all the bad cranks. Hopefully will find someone who want to fix them for less then the new price.
What is it with all these Storm Responders with blown engines? Simply checking the engine oil before each use, stopping the generator while it is running and rechecking as well as frequent oil changes would let these engines work forever.
I agree, they are good engines. Just a little oil will go a long way.
You do have another option to save the crank with a slightly smaller rod journal. That is to shave the rod cap to close up gap. But you have to measure for proper clearance.
Also the new crank looks like a chinese knock off. Just look at how poorly the counter weights were cleaned up compared to the OEM item.
Last time I order a new crank.
Thanks for sharing James
You bet
i wonder if the tight clearance on the counter weights and the pushrod might be the point of failure on these engines? if the rod gets a little lose. it might start hitting the weights and wearing it down to the point of failure?
Could be, but the original crank did not have such an issue. Am worried about he new one.
Mr. James. Good Afternoon?, I like to see how you rebuilt. All those broken generators, but I had a storm responder that is broken. The Connecting Rod. Scrambled And apart of the block Burst out can you help me Replace the block please
16:55......Maybe that was last crankshaft before production line shutdown for good, n QC already closed shop the week before. 😳🙈🤦♂️🤑