Thanks Jake, Because of your video I was able to see what was wrong with mine. Where the linkage attached to the bracket, the tab that held the linkage, was bent up at a 45deg angle, causing the linkage to bend improperly. Cleaned up, flattened, added anti seize, bent the end of the spring, reassembled & the Simplicity P1728E my daughter won me in 2012 is running like the absolute beast that I always thought it should be. Was always a dog before this. Thank you so much.
That was a great tip. Experience make you look at the carburetor linkages for a no start. UA-cam videos always look for spark, compression and dirty carburetor. You earned a thumbs up for this video!
You also have to consider plugged fuel tank filters, valve lash if it is an OHV engine, stuck or non sealing valves that you find by doing a leak down test. Just a few other things we watch for Aldo, thanks from the OLD MAN at EP.
Great tips Jake. I have worked on the 1150’s but never due to a governor issue. Thanks to you I have a better understanding of how these Briggs motors work. Cheers
Nice Gulf Pro Fuel signage in the background buddy! The spring tip is worth a lot of money savings to whoever has this type of unit and can do this repair themselves. Very good video and yep they need to install drainage holes in that plate under the fuel tank. See ya next Sunday.
Thanks for your information and the trick at the end. This just happened to me getting my Toro with 1150 and I new something was wrong with the linkage I knew I was missing a spring or something so search brought me to your video I subscribed I'm going to my dealer and order a complete new set of linkage springs and rods. I have a few issues with the belt and am going to check your videos for that repair as well. I don't know if anyone else has said this, but their ABS snow shoot isn't indestructible, and i'm going to hold them to their lifetime warranty. 2014 model Thanks again!
This is the best video I've found on this particular governor setup. My 10HP Briggs generator has the same set up and I'm having a problem with it going full throttle out of the blue with no load on it. Can you explain what the various holes (1 through 12) for the govenor spring do and how to select the best one for your application? Mine was in #8.
Eliminator Performance what two stage cordless snowblower would you choose???? to buy??? i have a pinched nereve in my right arm and can no longer run a gas snowblower thats my reason i am asking you.
2021 Buyers Guide gave the Greenworks Pro 20" 80V battery operated snowblower a 9.9 star rating and it beat out the EGO which had been considered one of the best. Jake has a video on a battery lawnmower with not good results on battery performance. I am 73 so i think there are times it is cheaper in the long run to pay a neighbour to clean your driveway and walkways for the winter. Then invite them over for a steak bbq and a couple of cold ones in the summer, beats the initial cost of new equipment and possible hassles. Plus you stay warm inside without a worry of slipping etc. Just a thought from the OLD MAN at EP! Also no repair bills big item.
@@waynestefinashen239 sadly green works dont make a two stage yet andi got a pinched nereve in my right arm so i want to go with a cordless two stage snowblower
Great video and well explained. I have a Craftsman 9 hp Briggs and Stratton snow blower with the same type of governor set up but without the throttle lever. How do to reduce it's high rpms which are at about 4500. I am not running till I can fix it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
You should check the specifications for that engine to see what the maximum rpm rating is. Normally we have snowblower engines running at 3600 rpm the OLD MAN at EP over and out!
Which way do you adjust the governor on this model? Clock wise or counter clock wise? Our Chipper goes wide open when you crank it and I know it's an issue with the governor.
Hi Jake great Video , My B& S has this same Carb set up , I was taking it off to clean it ( some how water got into the system nothing but slush in the tank and bowl , after removing the nuts I find the carb doesn't seem to want to move I tried tapping it a bit , no luck any suggestions , much appreciated Jim
Anti-seize creates a barrier between dissimilar metals most commonly between aluminum and steel. This is a measure that helps prevent corrosion and "seizing". Since it is likely a petrolium-based product it will help in this case because it does have some antifriction properties but in reality, a white silicone, or WD-40 are a better choice because these parts aren't made of dissimilar metals. it's rust that is caused by water having no place to go so the parts rust. Your video is very good and my comment is to be a minor suggestion but definitely not a knock on the very helpful video you've provided. I have a 1000X worse problem with water sitting in a low spot in my 2008 Silverado 3500. The fuel pump and sending unit on this truck sit in a dip in the actual gas tank. No amount of lubricant or grease will fix this issue. I think the only fix is to get a piece of plexiglass to put over the dip and silicone it onto the tank all the way around the dip. Otherwise the metal inlet and return lines coming out of the fuel tank from the fuel pump sit submerged in water until they rot away. Not only do you have to replace the fuel pump you also get water in your gas.
Yea I thought of using white lithium, but the antiseize is good for high temps so I figured it would stick around sort of speak once the engine got hot. The proper way to fix this would definitely be to drill some drainage holes, but I didn't feel like drilling into customers equipment without their approval. The bit of antiseize I used lubricated it well enough to free it up. Perhaps a high heat bearing grease would've been better. I'm always open to suggestions, thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance Good deal. Some people on UA-cam both watchers and do'ers need take a lesson from you. The watchers sometimes get picky and forget the folks out there taking their time making the video deserve a lot of respect for putting themselves out there.
@@rsulich at the end of the day, I'm just a guy in a garage fixing stuff. Sometimes I get it wrong, from the terminology or application of something that maybe isn't the right way to do it, but I've never had any equipment come back because of a botched repair or anything. Usually it's bad gas and the machine comes back in the spring or fall lol my comments are always open to constructive criticism! That's how we all learn, and I love learning above all because I can apply that knowledge in many ways to different applications.
Is there any documentation on how to pick which hole the governor spring should attach to on a Briggs engine like this? I have a generator that runs at the correct speed, but the governor is moving too slow when reacting to an increased load. I'd like to make it respond faster, but keep the RPM the same. None of the engine manuals I've found ever talk about the various governor spring positions on the arm, and how they affect the operation.
I add to remove the governor arm to clean up the rust, now the governor gear shaft i not properly ajust, what way it should be turn clockwise or anticlockwise? Thank's!
@@EliminatorPerformance Yes, i already saw that video today mornig, but still have a problem. After starting the engine with the choke ON, it's OK, but soon the choke is released, the speed go on very high... to high. I notice that the Governo Arm is not moving when the motor is turning.
Hi i have old 12.5 Briggs with side plate Gov that seems ok and smooth running and loose when idle throttle then tight at full throttle BUT i can only get 3/4 power and push throttle further and no change. So does this mean the govt arm has slipped a little in that clamp OR the govt spring needs adj- and how? thanks
hi I have the exact same engine. I had to rebuild the engine and now my snow blower seems to be revving a little to high at max throttle but when it goes under load it doesn't seem to want to rev up to handle the extra load any thought?
Fuckin' A bro. Best Video on these yet !!! I'm doing an Intek 9.5 right now, and that plate for spring WAS the problem ! Owner tried a heavier 'main' spring which really threw me off, When he told me, I went and stole one off another Intek 7hp and it runs perfect now ! Thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Interesting. I have just got a 1450 unit and throttle control looks like that but I previously bought a used 1350 for a repower. It doesn't have the throttle lever but has a lever that looks none original hooked to that spring that's fixed at bottom right of video picture near starter. I just set it to get my 3400 rpm. I'm going to pull the tank and see what's there.
What if I have the opposite problem? Regardless of the throttle setting, the engine is always at full throttle. The tension on the linkage does change from weak to strong when I set the throttle to full.
@@EliminatorPerformance Bummer. That sounds expensive, if I have someone else do the work. I've never been inside a small engine, so not sure this is something I could do...
@Robert Allen remote chance it needs a static governor adjustment. Make sure governor lever is tight on governor shaft coming out of engine. If loose then definitely it will to be readjusted
Thanks Jake well done. You do a great job with your explanations. I have an 1150 Craftsman Blower that I like a lot when needed however my only dislike about my unit is it doesn't have a speed control on and reves at it's set rpm at all times once you start it. It would normally be OK but I don't like shutting a hot high reving motor off like that without lower RPM for a bit to prevent the backfiring. I tend to pull the choke to slow it down and then off. Have you ever converted those models to operate with throttle like this one you just worked on.
I think I had the opposite problem on mine last weekend. It was revving out of control and I could only turn the throttle down to kill it. After fiddling a bit with the throttle all the way on and off it fixed itself. I'm sure it's a temporary fix and will have to get in there!
My B&S 850series Craftsman 17" Tiller OHV engine governor only has the throttle lever and the governor lever not the third one shown on your setup. Otherwise it is on top like yours unlike most videos showing the side mount governor setup.
The whole plate comes apart. Take it apart and clean it all. Fortunate for you someone was willing to pay. I actually have the same snowblower things great
Yes, I have an entire series on me tearing one of these engines down and converting it from non adjustable governor to an adjustable one, I have to swap plates.
@EliminatorPerformance personally i always liked working on briggs between the ease and the parts support theyve always been a favorite. I just went out and started mine 1/2 a pull and it lit after 2 years and some stabil pretty sweet
So this is what my 1350 looks like under tank. There's a plastic cover right below the tank and then below that you see no throttle lever nor that moving plate that seized on yours. Note what looks like a throttle control over near dipstick. There was I think a spring from the vertical bolt to the governor lever like you have from bracket to there. Either fell off or I removed it. It blows fine so seems properly governed. So if I look up ipl for my model it pictures both setups but shows no part item for your setup but does show and list a small lever attached to a cable. 2 governor springs are pictured but ⁸ one is shown in list. Neither one actually looks like the one on my unit that you add the bend too. But looking it up it is the one on the engine. Guess I can't post web links. I'll have to post a link to UA-cam video I guess. ua-cam.com/video/UAjpfNwtXJ8/v-deo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Thanks Jake, Because of your video I was able to see what was wrong with mine. Where the linkage attached to the bracket, the tab that held the linkage, was bent up at a 45deg angle, causing the linkage to bend improperly. Cleaned up, flattened, added anti seize, bent the end of the spring, reassembled & the Simplicity P1728E my daughter won me in 2012 is running like the absolute beast that I always thought it should be. Was always a dog before this. Thank you so much.
Cheers Jamie, glad you're all fixed up!
That was a great tip. Experience make you look at the carburetor linkages for a no start. UA-cam videos always look for spark, compression and dirty carburetor. You earned a thumbs up for this video!
Thanks for watching!
You also have to consider plugged fuel tank filters, valve lash if it is an OHV engine, stuck or non sealing valves that you find by doing a leak down test. Just a few other things we watch for Aldo, thanks from the OLD MAN at EP.
Great video
Great tips Jake. I have worked on the 1150’s but never due to a governor issue. Thanks to you I have a better understanding of how these Briggs motors work.
Cheers
Nice Gulf Pro Fuel signage in the background buddy! The spring tip is worth a lot of money savings to whoever has this type of unit and can do this repair themselves. Very good video and yep they need to install drainage holes in that plate under the fuel tank. See ya next Sunday.
Good day Wayne Good one Thanks We have on-line auction in Wallenstein, and there were a few sold I think around $700.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your information and the trick at the end. This just happened to me getting my Toro with 1150 and I new something was wrong with the linkage I knew I was missing a spring or something so search brought me to your video I subscribed I'm going to my dealer and order a complete new set of linkage springs and rods. I have a few issues with the belt and am going to check your videos for that repair as well. I don't know if anyone else has said this, but their ABS snow shoot isn't indestructible, and i'm going to hold them to their lifetime warranty. 2014 model Thanks again!
Very cool. Nice one! This guy is brilliant - wish I lived closer.
Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching!
This is the best video I've found on this particular governor setup. My 10HP Briggs generator has the same set up and I'm having a problem with it going full throttle out of the blue with no load on it. Can you explain what the various holes (1 through 12) for the govenor spring do and how to select the best one for your application? Mine was in #8.
He's a good dude, if you look close, his spring is set at #5 hole. That's fairly standard on B+S. Try it, EZ enough, but most I've seen are # 5.
Vos vidéos sont très bien faits: bravo! Videos are really pros: thanks.
thanks for taking the time to make all these great videos...
Very helpful thanks for sharing
Very well explained and I great idea bending the spring. Keep up the good videos!!!
Awesome video! Thank You! Been needing that info! 🇺🇸 Thanks Brutha!
Thanks for watching, cheers from Ontario Canada!
Eliminator Performance what two stage cordless snowblower would you choose???? to buy??? i have a pinched nereve in my right arm and can no longer run a gas snowblower thats my reason i am asking you.
I have no idea, I've never used them before. I'm sure there's countless videos, make sure you watch someone reputable, thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance you should start making videos on cordless snowblowers so people know whats the best brand to get just a suggestion
2021 Buyers Guide gave the Greenworks Pro 20" 80V battery operated snowblower a 9.9 star rating and it beat out the EGO which had been considered one of the best. Jake has a video on a battery lawnmower with not good results on battery performance. I am 73 so i think there are times it is cheaper in the long run to pay a neighbour to clean your driveway and walkways for the winter. Then invite them over for a steak bbq and a couple of cold ones in the summer, beats the initial cost of new equipment and possible hassles. Plus you stay warm inside without a worry of slipping etc. Just a thought from the OLD MAN at EP! Also no repair bills big item.
@@waynestefinashen239 sadly green works dont make a two stage yet andi got a pinched nereve in my right arm so i want to go with a cordless two stage snowblower
Great tips there jake and also fixing that governor spring there like you said why it was not fixed like that from factory.
Great video ,Great info and great demonstration .
Nice video Jake, very informative. 👍
Thanks for watching!
Anytime brother
Good day Jake I have cub cadet would this be the same? I like the anti-seize. Thanks
Only if it has the Briggs and Stratton Snow Series engine, 1150 or 1450 those kinds. Thanks for watching!
Great video and well explained. I have a Craftsman 9 hp Briggs and Stratton snow blower with the same type of governor set up but without the throttle lever. How do to reduce it's high rpms which are at about 4500. I am not running till I can fix it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
The governor spring will have different holes in it, or you can bend the tab the spring hooks up to, limit tension to lower rpm. Thanks for watching!
You should check the specifications for that engine to see what the maximum rpm rating is. Normally we have snowblower engines running at 3600 rpm the OLD MAN at EP over and out!
Thanks for your advise.
Thanks.
Great explanation.....and easy enough to do .
Thanks for watching!
Really good video Eliminator Performance
Which way do you adjust the governor on this model? Clock wise or counter clock wise? Our Chipper goes wide open when you crank it and I know it's an issue with the governor.
Hi Jake great Video , My B& S has this same Carb set up , I was taking it off to clean it ( some how water got into the system nothing but slush in the tank and bowl , after removing the nuts I find the carb doesn't seem to want to move I tried tapping it a bit , no luck any suggestions , much appreciated Jim
Just glued to the gasket and heat spacer, give it a wack with a rubber mallet it will come off
Anti-seize creates a barrier between dissimilar metals most commonly between aluminum and steel. This is a measure that helps prevent corrosion and "seizing". Since it is likely a petrolium-based product it will help in this case because it does have some antifriction properties but in reality, a white silicone, or WD-40 are a better choice because these parts aren't made of dissimilar metals. it's rust that is caused by water having no place to go so the parts rust. Your video is very good and my comment is to be a minor suggestion but definitely not a knock on the very helpful video you've provided. I have a 1000X worse problem with water sitting in a low spot in my 2008 Silverado 3500. The fuel pump and sending unit on this truck sit in a dip in the actual gas tank. No amount of lubricant or grease will fix this issue. I think the only fix is to get a piece of plexiglass to put over the dip and silicone it onto the tank all the way around the dip. Otherwise the metal inlet and return lines coming out of the fuel tank from the fuel pump sit submerged in water until they rot away. Not only do you have to replace the fuel pump you also get water in your gas.
Yea I thought of using white lithium, but the antiseize is good for high temps so I figured it would stick around sort of speak once the engine got hot. The proper way to fix this would definitely be to drill some drainage holes, but I didn't feel like drilling into customers equipment without their approval. The bit of antiseize I used lubricated it well enough to free it up. Perhaps a high heat bearing grease would've been better. I'm always open to suggestions, thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance Good deal. Some people on UA-cam both watchers and do'ers need take a lesson from you. The watchers sometimes get picky and forget the folks out there taking their time making the video deserve a lot of respect for putting themselves out there.
@@rsulich at the end of the day, I'm just a guy in a garage fixing stuff. Sometimes I get it wrong, from the terminology or application of something that maybe isn't the right way to do it, but I've never had any equipment come back because of a botched repair or anything. Usually it's bad gas and the machine comes back in the spring or fall lol my comments are always open to constructive criticism! That's how we all learn, and I love learning above all because I can apply that knowledge in many ways to different applications.
Is there any documentation on how to pick which hole the governor spring should attach to on a Briggs engine like this? I have a generator that runs at the correct speed, but the governor is moving too slow when reacting to an increased load. I'd like to make it respond faster, but keep the RPM the same. None of the engine manuals I've found ever talk about the various governor spring positions on the arm, and how they affect the operation.
This is the only thing I've found that's close
www.briggsracing.com/sites/default/files/instructions-for-setting-mechanical-govenor.pdf
I add to remove the governor arm to clean up the rust, now the governor gear shaft i not properly ajust, what way it should be turn clockwise or anticlockwise? Thank's!
About the 18min mark of this video ua-cam.com/video/EthRc7ImR9k/v-deo.htmlsi=sWJCcNl7A8yl8DM0
@@EliminatorPerformance Yes, i already saw that video today mornig, but still have a problem. After starting the engine with the choke ON, it's OK, but soon the choke is released, the speed go on very high... to high. I notice that the Governo Arm is not moving when the motor is turning.
Guy you are very good!
You explain so well
Hi i have old 12.5 Briggs with side plate Gov that seems ok and smooth running and loose when idle throttle then tight at full throttle BUT i can only get 3/4 power and push throttle further and no change. So does this mean the govt arm has slipped a little in that clamp OR the govt spring needs adj- and how? thanks
hi I have the exact same engine. I had to rebuild the engine and now my snow blower seems to be revving a little to high at max throttle but when it goes under load it doesn't seem to want to rev up to handle the extra load any thought?
Fuckin' A bro. Best Video on these yet !!! I'm doing an Intek 9.5 right now, and that plate for spring WAS the problem ! Owner tried a heavier 'main' spring which really threw me off, When he told me, I went and stole one off another Intek 7hp and it runs perfect now ! Thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
really good information.
Excellent video
Thanks for watching!
Interesting. I have just got a 1450 unit and throttle control looks like that but I previously bought a used 1350 for a repower. It doesn't have the throttle lever but has a lever that looks none original hooked to that spring that's fixed at bottom right of video picture near starter. I just set it to get my 3400 rpm. I'm going to pull the tank and see what's there.
Just editing the conversion video, you'll see what you need to convert it. Will be up this Sunday night!
What if I have the opposite problem? Regardless of the throttle setting, the engine is always at full throttle. The tension on the linkage does change from weak to strong when I set the throttle to full.
Blown governor gear inside the engine most likely
@@EliminatorPerformance Bummer. That sounds expensive, if I have someone else do the work. I've never been inside a small engine, so not sure this is something I could do...
@Robert Allen remote chance it needs a static governor adjustment. Make sure governor lever is tight on governor shaft coming out of engine. If loose then definitely it will to be readjusted
My next video will also show how to properly set the governor
Thanks Jake well done. You do a great job with your explanations. I have an 1150 Craftsman Blower that I like a lot when needed however my only dislike about my unit is it doesn't have a speed control on and reves at it's set rpm at all times once you start it. It would normally be OK but I don't like shutting a hot high reving motor off like that without lower RPM for a bit to prevent the backfiring. I tend to pull the choke to slow it down and then off. Have you ever converted those models to operate with throttle like this one you just worked on.
I think I had the opposite problem on mine last weekend. It was revving out of control and I could only turn the throttle down to kill it. After fiddling a bit with the throttle all the way on and off it fixed itself. I'm sure it's a temporary fix and will have to get in there!
Good tips and recommendations.
Thanks for watching!
cheers guys 👍
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching Rafal
good work
Thanks for watching!
Now what if everything is done and STILL doesn’t work?
TYVM
What about the 2006 Briggs engine with no throttle lever strictly wide open or off so to speak
Doing a video on how to convert, should be up within the next couple weeks!
Just to add some info engine is a Briggs 6bsx53422sw 9.5 hp snow model
Where are you located just for interest
@@johnbaird2395 Port Colborne Ontario Canada
My B&S 850series Craftsman 17" Tiller OHV engine governor only has the throttle lever and the governor lever not the third one shown on your setup. Otherwise it is on top like yours unlike most videos showing the side mount governor setup.
Your the best!
excellant video was lost without
Should put blurple locktight on that spring
It would never come off, thanks for watching!
They only use blurple in the UK royalty you know.
Great tip. E.P
Thanks for watching!
Hello Edward
@@waynestefinashen239 hello Wayne
@@waynestefinashen239 just subscribed to you bud
@@edwardburke9181 Thank you sir
The whole plate comes apart. Take it apart and clean it all. Fortunate for you someone was willing to pay. I actually have the same snowblower things great
Yes, I have an entire series on me tearing one of these engines down and converting it from non adjustable governor to an adjustable one, I have to swap plates.
@EliminatorPerformance personally i always liked working on briggs between the ease and the parts support theyve always been a favorite. I just went out and started mine 1/2 a pull and it lit after 2 years and some stabil pretty sweet
Quiero saber como se gradúa el gobernado a la derecha o izquierda grasia
So this is what my 1350 looks like under tank. There's a plastic cover right below the tank and then below that you see no throttle lever nor that moving plate that seized on yours. Note what looks like a throttle control over near dipstick. There was I think a spring from the vertical bolt to the governor lever like you have from bracket to there. Either fell off or I removed it. It blows fine so seems properly governed.
So if I look up ipl for my model it pictures both setups but shows no part item for your setup but does show and list a small lever attached to a cable. 2 governor springs are pictured but ⁸ one is shown in list. Neither one actually looks like the one on my unit that you add the bend too. But looking it up it is the one on the engine.
Guess I can't post web links. I'll have to post a link to UA-cam video I guess.
ua-cam.com/video/UAjpfNwtXJ8/v-deo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
You didn't help meeeee!!!!UA-cam is giving me wrong videos