Dang brother, Great video...! You all taught me more in a 45 min video, then 4 years of asking questions and reading comments. Thanks for all the time and energy that went into this one video, it was so useful and y'all made it so easy to digest..!👍 New Sub'er and like here! 🎉
I found this video super educational and informative! I have a KRX 4 ES SE and I’ve constantly read about how bad the KRX will sag over time. I’ve added a lot of weight in accessories and I check ride height periodically because the internet taught me to worry about spring sag. This video explains a lot that was confusing me. The only ride height I ever lost from the factory, I gained back from installing the suspension mount reinforcements from Full Access. I was surprised at how much flex there was in the shock and upper A arm mounts. I haven’t lost any ride height in the 6 months since I did those reinforcements, and I have around 200lbs in added weight. I guess I’ve still been lucky if I haven’t had any nitrogen leak down where many people do, but the sagging always seemed weird to me that it would be spring fatigue without years of abuse
thanks for the explanation, several of us checked our nitrogen when we got our machines (KRX) and they were all at 101-105 lbs of nitrogen. this was 3 difference machines. never tried bumping to 200 before changing springs - now i might have to go try the stock springs again
Definitely agree on the nitrogen! I had a few inches of sag and had my rr shock leaking. I ordered the schrader valves from brute and had a local guy rebuild the shocks. Set them at 175psi. Regained my ride height back. No need for spring adjustment at all.
Excellent Video!! I just purchased a 2023 on Blowout yesterday. Been doing a lot of research. And I was already thinking I would be replacing the stock Springs from sag. Before long, from all the videos I've seen about it already! So glad I found your videos! Great looking Cars as well! GOOD JOB!
The stiffer factory spring 6.5” compared to aftermarket 12” the multiple factory per inch . The travel length would affect the overall compression ratio ?
Sorry, really wasn't a question. I was just commenting, that I was glad to see your video. Because I had seen so many others talking about the springs sagging. When maybe all they need is to recharge the nitrogen. @@d3offroad
Thank you so much for the excellent content. I have a 2021 KRX Trail Edition, and like many I am experiencing "Spring Sag" and was indecisive about whether or not to do springs or nitrogen. I had seen somewhere, (possibly one of your earlier videos) that nitrogen was a solution for so called spring sag, so I went ahead and put all the items in my Amazon cart to do a recharge. Then I came across a thread in a popular KRX forum basically calling nitrogen recharging a snake oil solution to ride height and spring sag issues, so I started contemplating springs. After watching your video and seeing actual numbers, actual measurements and your pogo stick demo (🤣🤣), I have decided to go the nitrogen recharge route. The numbers and measurements do not lie! Now that you have clarified that for me, what's your take on aftermarket clutch weights vs. OEM?? 🤣🤣 🤔🤔 Keep up the good work!
Haha thanks for watching! Don’t get me wrong springs have their place if you carry a ton of gear and the nitrogen is setup correctly you might need springs if you’re going beyond ideal amounts of preload… but that isn’t very common on krx! Or if you’re trying to achieve a really slick race tune and preload and spring rate is super important but the average trail riding through the bush just need correct nitrogen and a good internal shock tune. As for clutch weights from all our research the JBS weights seem to last the longest we are running them in our machine 😎
Thank you for the information, very confusing reading all the comments on different platforms. I am a new KRX trail addition owner. KRX is a great machine so far, I am coming from a Teryx 750 2 seater.
Glad it was helpful! There are still times where springs are required of course but not every owner needs to run out and buy spring kits right away like you see on a lot of Facebook posts 😉
Great video! Interesting how they use the tender spring for small bump compliance and once the isolator is engaged the main spring serves to "ramp up" the travel to avoid harsh bottom out. I appreciate you sharing the math numbers - definitely helped with my understanding. I come from the mountain bike world so understand coil shocks in that capacity. Learning the SXS stuff. If you ever sell your KRX can I get first dibbs? LoL. So nice!
Since we seem to be on the same page here, i want to run an idea by you, do to my riding style, i was actually thinking about keeping the factory tender spring rate, but just buying longer tender springs,
There will be no benefit to a longer tender, the tenders are only used for 1-2” of compression travel then you hit the isolator on the cross over rings and ride solely on the main springs, which is what you want, also when going longer springs they can bow causing more shock wear on the body which is common with one of the famous brands most people buy, cheap quality and long = bad wear
@d3offroad what would suggest doing with the tender springs then, because currently i filled the shocks with 190psi, and only way i can still get my ride height is to crank down my tenders to the point it rides like a brick, at slow speeds, i like the soft floating feeling they you, im running a long arm kit also,
@@AniskaEnt86 Are we talking front end or rear end that you have cranked down? or all of them? the fact that you are running a long arm kit tells me you will need springs because you have moved the leverage point out further from the shocks by moving the tires out. That will mostly affect the front suspension more than the rear. what model krx is it? Nitrogen only is good for stock machines without a bunch of added weight or mods to the suspension once we get into bad ass upgrades proper shock setup is key for the best performance! internal valving and correct spring rates.
@d3offroad, Im running the SATV long arm kit on my KRX, " i should have stated that" (unfortunately we can't post photos or id send some photos of how i have my set up) its 3 inches wider each side, front and rear. With 190psi in shocks, and tenders pretty much cranked, I've got 18 inches of ground clearance, front and rear. This is where I've run into suspension "issues/concerns" in the past with similar setups. See if im not hard rock crawling, like windrock trail 15 or devils type stuff, 75-85% of our riding is under 15mph, in tight technical rocky trails. Every shock company i ever talked to in the past basically told me im pissing in the wind by doing full shocks. On my last sxs (x3), i picked up some Highlifter tenders for cheap, and honestly, it rode quite nice and didn't have to adjust them at all. That's why i kinda had the thought process of adjusting the pressure and running a slightly longer stock tender.
@@AniskaEnt86 Ya that long arm kit is going to change things, 18" is very high in my opinion we run all our machines around here at 15.5" give or take 1/2" on 35" tires because I don't use ground clearance to set up shocks it is incorrect... instead I use cv angles and amount of shaft showing on the shock. to better help you maybe you should e-mail me and we I can send you my form to fill out to get a better idea on your wants/needs! d3-offroad@outlook.com
Would like a video on changing the oil in the shocks hope to see that. I agree on the tender spring I got aftermarket springs and I had to clamp the spring down 3 inches to just get it on then run the adjustment down another 2 inches to get ride hight. Was alway told that you should only have to go one inch past 0 sag to get ride hight if you had to go more than that the spring rate or length was wrong. Keep up the good work and always enjoy your videos
Really thorough video, thanks for putting it together! I lost 3" of clearance on my 23 KRX Live Valve within the first 300 miles...I think there are some QC issues going on at Fox.
The spring isolator “black plastic thing” coming in contact with the cross over rings is known to make a clank noise on the krx machines that’s right! A lot of guys will put old oil filter rubber o ring gaskets on the shock to act a damper to help get rid of the noise for all of about $5 vs buying expensive fancy silent rings that do the same thing
@d3offroad ok, thanks. I took mine out the weekend after i picked it up (0 miles), and it clanked. Reading post abut it don't do it justice hahah. Yes, it's very annoying, so that will be done before i take it back out. Also i will be keeping a eye out for any loss of ride height. Any other suggestions on upgrades or mods to do for a new owner like myself?
I would be interested in a talk about the spring isolator rubbing on the shock body and slapping the isolator adjusting rings. On my 24 KRX4 with Fox Live Valves the front shocks are making noises that seem to be the above described on sudden compression. Sounds like a loud tap and a zipper noise? Could it be the lack of nitrogen pressure?
Would you like me to do a video talking about the rzr suspension more in depth? I also keep getting a lot of questions about live valve on the machines maybe I should talk about it as well!
Nice video, yes I’d like to see the internal work done. Been in contact with you in regards to having my x3 done, currently arranging for the work to be done in the early spring.
Tire pressures change based on trail conditions and riding style for the day, slow technical rock crawl we will go down to 4-6psi more fast pace ripping on trail 8-12psi usually
I just found your channel. Very educational. I’m learning a lot being new to the SxS world. I have a 2023 Teryx4 s-se 800. Live in Fl. I’ve done some minor upgrades (mud tires 30”, snorkel kit, ECU tune by VFJ, lastly removed 1 cat right behind muffler) My question is should I also do the nitrogen cap mod and I was also thinking of dual rate springs from Bandit?
Thanks! He’s all shocks will benefit from getting a nitrogen cap install/mod and if your machine does not have a true dual rate setup from factory it’s a huge upgrade! Where the KRX has a great dual rate from factory it is not a huge upgrade.
Astonishingly informative! Thanks for the education! But I have a question: I now know the importance of the nitrogen pressure but does nitrogen volume come into play in any way? For instance, there are extended "High Volume" reservoir caps on the market for x3s. Thanks!
Volume does come into play more so on smaller resi shocks the x3 has massive resi and it’s also more important in say desert racing for long periods of time where you can get shock pump from pressure rising due to heat, for the average rider who takes breaks to hang out every hour it is not really needed the shocks always cool off
Thank you for all that info and definitely do want to see the next video. My KRX4 es se is sagging, I’m in Arizona, probably to far to send to you for stock shock tuning?
Once you get the caps modified for a Schrader valve or buy new caps you can easily do your own maintenance! With a few tools but the factory caps don’t allow for that
Thank you very much. This information was very helpful. My KRX was saving bad and was going to order the tender springs but now I’m going to find a place here in northern Alberta to check my N2 pressures. Is it possible for you to check the highlifter spring spacer lift out and let me know if they are any good. Love the videos you guys do thx for the time and info you guys give on the KRX.
Spring spacers are the exact same thing as adding preload to your shock, so adjusting the collar down on the top to get you sitting higher. I don’t recommend either of those if you want it to handle and ride the same you need to instead move shock mounts to get the lift height
Thanks for the info, great video. Question; lets say the inside diameter of a Fox 2.5 is 2" (3.14159 square inches) and we put 200 PSI in the reservoir, then do we have 628 pounds "pushing " to keep the shock extended? That would mean, combined 4 shocks would be 2500+lbs, which would support a 2000 lb machine without exerting any force on the springs? It seems I've errored in my calculations, what I'm doing wrong?
I’m not following your science haha, the 200psi is pushing against the oil and set at 200 when the shock is fully extended as you set the vehicle weight down the shock compresses under that weight therefor the IFP piston moves inside the resi and the 200psi will be increasing as the area for the nitrogen decreases…. Not sure what square inches or 628 has to do with it please explain your thoughts some more for me to wrap my head around it!
Sorry for confusion. If there is 200 lbs per square inches against a piston that is 2 inches in diameter (the area of a 2 inch circle is 3.14 square inches) 200 x 3.14=628 total pounds of pressure against the piston.
Yes, it does not matter if it is live valve or not, we are currently fixing a 2023 with live valve that came in with 9" of ground clearance and is now back up to 14" with 160lbs of gear in the bed! all the IFP were blown inside the resi oil passed them and low on nitrogen and it only has around 700 miles on the machine...
Exactly the same concept! Only difference on the ES is instead of manual shock clickers, it’s an electronic servo to go from soft to firm. Springs and all other inner workings are the same. UNLESS your shock is the Live Valve bypass shock.
ok so my question is....are the schawder valves on the shocks the same as hvac valves or will you have to use a special something to put nitrogen in with?? thanks
We have removed the front sway bar completely from the machines, no you do not risk any shock damage without a sway bar. Sway bars jobs is only to control body roll in corners to help fight weight transfer it has no effect on shock droop/extension. The only way you can really damage the shocks is if you put an aggressive spring package with super party mode rebound tune and big heavy tires 😎
You had mentioned in one of your earlier videos, about doing a review in depth on the KAWASAKI INTERACTIVE DISPLAY. I would love to get your opinion on it! Is it worth it?
I highly recommend it. I have the 4 seat es se, and having the rear camera is super useful. It also gives you full diagnostic info, and it allows you to have your engine gauges in front of you, and your live suspension info on the display screen
Formula - (150x200) / (150+200) = 86lbs Those are generic spring rates you can use your own numbers and that is why we use a dual rate system so for the initial amount of travel the spring is softer more plush and as you compress the shock it hits the cross over ring and jumps from 86 up to 200lb on the lower main spring to avoid bottoming out Hope you find that helpful!
We were wearing them they just weren’t plugged in properly in the camera, we didn’t catch it till after we had done all the filming. We may redo the video at a later date.
Internal video is up!! Check it out here. ua-cam.com/video/ZpVDPVOLe1U/v-deo.htmlsi=jCTwFgHMb9dr_3LQ
Yes. We want to see the internals of the shock. Thank you. You guys make great videos.
Thanks man!!
Without a doubt the best video I ever watched.
Thanks for watching!!
Dang brother, Great video...! You all taught me more in a 45 min video, then 4 years of asking questions and reading comments. Thanks for all the time and energy that went into this one video, it was so useful and y'all made it so easy to digest..!👍 New Sub'er and like here! 🎉
Thank you! I have plans to make a even more in depth and better content video very soon 😎 thanks for watching
I found this video super educational and informative! I have a KRX 4 ES SE and I’ve constantly read about how bad the KRX will sag over time. I’ve added a lot of weight in accessories and I check ride height periodically because the internet taught me to worry about spring sag. This video explains a lot that was confusing me.
The only ride height I ever lost from the factory, I gained back from installing the suspension mount reinforcements from Full Access. I was surprised at how much flex there was in the shock and upper A arm mounts. I haven’t lost any ride height in the 6 months since I did those reinforcements, and I have around 200lbs in added weight.
I guess I’ve still been lucky if I haven’t had any nitrogen leak down where many people do, but the sagging always seemed weird to me that it would be spring fatigue without years of abuse
thanks for the explanation, several of us checked our nitrogen when we got our machines (KRX) and they were all at 101-105 lbs of nitrogen. this was 3 difference machines. never tried bumping to 200 before changing springs - now i might have to go try the stock springs again
Thank you for this very educational video. I had no idea the Nitrogen charged was so crucial. Again....Thank you!
You’re welcome thanks for watching!
You two make a great teem!
The videos in the shop are my favorite, I always learn something…. Keep ‘‘em coming
Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Definitely agree on the nitrogen! I had a few inches of sag and had my rr shock leaking. I ordered the schrader valves from brute and had a local guy rebuild the shocks. Set them at 175psi. Regained my ride height back. No need for spring adjustment at all.
That’s awesome! Good to hear!
What'd that cost you
Excellent Video!! I just purchased a 2023 on Blowout yesterday. Been doing a lot of research. And I was already thinking I would be replacing the stock Springs from sag. Before long, from all the videos I've seen about it already! So glad I found your videos! Great looking Cars as well! GOOD JOB!
Thanks !!
The stiffer factory spring 6.5” compared to aftermarket 12” the multiple factory per inch . The travel length would affect the overall compression ratio ?
Sorry I’m not quite sure I’m following your question. Could you try rewording it?
Sorry, really wasn't a question. I was just commenting, that I was glad to see your video. Because I had seen so many others talking about the springs sagging. When maybe all they need is to recharge the nitrogen. @@d3offroad
@@hexhound2273 ahhh gotcha! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for the excellent content. I have a 2021 KRX Trail Edition, and like many I am experiencing "Spring Sag" and was indecisive about whether or not to do springs or nitrogen. I had seen somewhere, (possibly one of your earlier videos) that nitrogen was a solution for so called spring sag, so I went ahead and put all the items in my Amazon cart to do a recharge. Then I came across a thread in a popular KRX forum basically calling nitrogen recharging a snake oil solution to ride height and spring sag issues, so I started contemplating springs. After watching your video and seeing actual numbers, actual measurements and your pogo stick demo (🤣🤣), I have decided to go the nitrogen recharge route. The numbers and measurements do not lie! Now that you have clarified that for me, what's your take on aftermarket clutch weights vs. OEM?? 🤣🤣 🤔🤔 Keep up the good work!
Haha thanks for watching! Don’t get me wrong springs have their place if you carry a ton of gear and the nitrogen is setup correctly you might need springs if you’re going beyond ideal amounts of preload… but that isn’t very common on krx! Or if you’re trying to achieve a really slick race tune and preload and spring rate is super important but the average trail riding through the bush just need correct nitrogen and a good internal shock tune. As for clutch weights from all our research the JBS weights seem to last the longest we are running them in our machine 😎
Thanks for the video! There was a lot that I realized I didn’t know and I learned a lot!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the information, very confusing reading all the comments on different platforms. I am a new KRX trail addition owner. KRX is a great machine so far, I am coming from a Teryx 750 2 seater.
Glad it was helpful! There are still times where springs are required of course but not every owner needs to run out and buy spring kits right away like you see on a lot of Facebook posts 😉
Great video ! Love the explanation
Sheds light on lots of gobbledegook your told as to what the bottom line is keep it simple
GREAT VIDEO! So many people think they know about suspension, yet have no idea. Luckily, I know enough to be dangerous. 🙂
Great video! Interesting how they use the tender spring for small bump compliance and once the isolator is engaged the main spring serves to "ramp up" the travel to avoid harsh bottom out. I appreciate you sharing the math numbers - definitely helped with my understanding. I come from the mountain bike world so understand coil shocks in that capacity. Learning the SXS stuff. If you ever sell your KRX can I get first dibbs? LoL. So nice!
Glad you found it helpful! There is a lot to soak up for sure and thanks for the compliment on our krx stuff!
Thanks so much for this vid guys!
Thanks for watching!
Since we seem to be on the same page here, i want to run an idea by you, do to my riding style, i was actually thinking about keeping the factory tender spring rate, but just buying longer tender springs,
There will be no benefit to a longer tender, the tenders are only used for 1-2” of compression travel then you hit the isolator on the cross over rings and ride solely on the main springs, which is what you want, also when going longer springs they can bow causing more shock wear on the body which is common with one of the famous brands most people buy, cheap quality and long = bad wear
@d3offroad what would suggest doing with the tender springs then, because currently i filled the shocks with 190psi, and only way i can still get my ride height is to crank down my tenders to the point it rides like a brick, at slow speeds, i like the soft floating feeling they you, im running a long arm kit also,
@@AniskaEnt86 Are we talking front end or rear end that you have cranked down? or all of them? the fact that you are running a long arm kit tells me you will need springs because you have moved the leverage point out further from the shocks by moving the tires out. That will mostly affect the front suspension more than the rear. what model krx is it? Nitrogen only is good for stock machines without a bunch of added weight or mods to the suspension once we get into bad ass upgrades proper shock setup is key for the best performance! internal valving and correct spring rates.
@d3offroad, Im running the SATV long arm kit on my KRX, " i should have stated that" (unfortunately we can't post photos or id send some photos of how i have my set up) its 3 inches wider each side, front and rear. With 190psi in shocks, and tenders pretty much cranked, I've got 18 inches of ground clearance, front and rear. This is where I've run into suspension "issues/concerns" in the past with similar setups. See if im not hard rock crawling, like windrock trail 15 or devils type stuff, 75-85% of our riding is under 15mph, in tight technical rocky trails. Every shock company i ever talked to in the past basically told me im pissing in the wind by doing full shocks. On my last sxs (x3), i picked up some Highlifter tenders for cheap, and honestly, it rode quite nice and didn't have to adjust them at all. That's why i kinda had the thought process of adjusting the pressure and running a slightly longer stock tender.
@@AniskaEnt86 Ya that long arm kit is going to change things, 18" is very high in my opinion we run all our machines around here at 15.5" give or take 1/2" on 35" tires because I don't use ground clearance to set up shocks it is incorrect... instead I use cv angles and amount of shaft showing on the shock. to better help you maybe you should e-mail me and we I can send you my form to fill out to get a better idea on your wants/needs! d3-offroad@outlook.com
Would like a video on changing the oil in the shocks hope to see that. I agree on the tender spring I got aftermarket springs and I had to clamp the spring down 3 inches to just get it on then run the adjustment down another 2 inches to get ride hight. Was alway told that you should only have to go one inch past 0 sag to get ride hight if you had to go more than that the spring rate or length was wrong. Keep up the good work and always enjoy your videos
We could do that! Thanks for watching!
Best Shock video I have seen for the KRX !!! So how do I send you my shocks to have work done if I live in the USA… Michigan
Feel free to email us at d3-offroad@outlook.com and we can chat about getting you set up!
Thanks for watching!!
Really thorough video, thanks for putting it together! I lost 3" of clearance on my 23 KRX Live Valve within the first 300 miles...I think there are some QC issues going on at Fox.
Thanks for watching!!
Great informative video! Another vote for a video on internals!
Thank you for a GREAT and relatable/understandable video. Very educational!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent information!
Glad you think so!
You sir have earned another subscriber
Thanks!
what about anti sway bar to stop body roll or a bigger bar?
Yep that would fix excessive body roll!
Great video guy’s, very well done. Thanks!
So the tender bottoming out is the "common" suspension "clank" i read about?
The spring isolator “black plastic thing” coming in contact with the cross over rings is known to make a clank noise on the krx machines that’s right! A lot of guys will put old oil filter rubber o ring gaskets on the shock to act a damper to help get rid of the noise for all of about $5 vs buying expensive fancy silent rings that do the same thing
@d3offroad ok, thanks. I took mine out the weekend after i picked it up (0 miles), and it clanked. Reading post abut it don't do it justice hahah. Yes, it's very annoying, so that will be done before i take it back out. Also i will be keeping a eye out for any loss of ride height. Any other suggestions on upgrades or mods to do for a new owner like myself?
I would be interested in a talk about the spring isolator rubbing on the shock body and slapping the isolator adjusting rings. On my 24 KRX4 with Fox Live Valves the front shocks are making noises that seem to be the above described on sudden compression. Sounds like a loud tap and a zipper noise? Could it be the lack of nitrogen pressure?
I would try lowering the cross over rings down so they are 1/4” from the slider when parked and see if that helps with the clunk noise.
Awesome video man! If you have any more that you can explain about the older rzr it would make a lot of view, a lot of us still ride them down here
Would you like me to do a video talking about the rzr suspension more in depth? I also keep getting a lot of questions about live valve on the machines maybe I should talk about it as well!
I did a similar test/video a few weeks ago, before I saw this vid - EXACTLY my results as well 2" difference in ride height from 60psi to 200psi of N
Nice video, yes I’d like to see the internal work done. Been in contact with you in regards to having my x3 done, currently arranging for the work to be done in the early spring.
Thanks for the support man! Internal video will be up this weekend!
@@d3offroad will be watching for it 🤙
Great video. What tire pressure do you run to allow the suspension to do its work?
Tire pressures change based on trail conditions and riding style for the day, slow technical rock crawl we will go down to 4-6psi more fast pace ripping on trail 8-12psi usually
I just found your channel. Very educational. I’m learning a lot being new to the SxS world. I have a 2023 Teryx4 s-se 800. Live in Fl. I’ve done some minor upgrades (mud tires 30”, snorkel kit, ECU tune by VFJ, lastly removed 1 cat right behind muffler) My question is should I also do the nitrogen cap mod and I was also thinking of dual rate springs from Bandit?
Thanks! He’s all shocks will benefit from getting a nitrogen cap install/mod and if your machine does not have a true dual rate setup from factory it’s a huge upgrade! Where the KRX has a great dual rate from factory it is not a huge upgrade.
Astonishingly informative! Thanks for the education! But I have a question: I now know the importance of the nitrogen pressure but does nitrogen volume come into play in any way? For instance, there are extended "High Volume" reservoir caps on the market for x3s. Thanks!
Volume does come into play more so on smaller resi shocks the x3 has massive resi and it’s also more important in say desert racing for long periods of time where you can get shock pump from pressure rising due to heat, for the average rider who takes breaks to hang out every hour it is not really needed the shocks always cool off
Awesome video, super helpful! You guys are using the dji mics but it doesn’t sounds like they are turned on 😂
We have technical difficulties at times 🤣
Thank you for all that info and definitely do want to see the next video. My KRX4 es se is sagging, I’m in Arizona, probably to far to send to you for stock shock tuning?
Not too far! Shoot us a message at d3-offroad@outlook.com and we’ll get ya set up.
Definitely would like to see and learn more thanks for being helpful.
Thanks for watching 🤘🏻
@@d3offroad You guys are awsome
What is the ride height on the machine you showed with stick springs?
15” roughly
Awesome video. Is there a way for us to check and change nitrogen pressure without taking the KRX in to be serviced?
Once you get the caps modified for a Schrader valve or buy new caps you can easily do your own maintenance! With a few tools but the factory caps don’t allow for that
Thank you very much. This information was very helpful. My KRX was saving bad and was going to order the tender springs but now I’m going to find a place here in northern Alberta to check my N2 pressures. Is it possible for you to check the highlifter spring spacer lift out and let me know if they are any good. Love the videos you guys do thx for the time and info you guys give on the KRX.
Spring spacers are the exact same thing as adding preload to your shock, so adjusting the collar down on the top to get you sitting higher. I don’t recommend either of those if you want it to handle and ride the same you need to instead move shock mounts to get the lift height
Great job how would a person get ahold of you direct
Thanks! You can email us at d3-offroad@outlook.com or Instagram @d3fabrications
Thanks for the info, great video.
Question; lets say the inside diameter of a Fox 2.5 is 2" (3.14159 square inches) and we put 200 PSI in the reservoir, then do we have 628 pounds "pushing " to keep the shock extended?
That would mean, combined 4 shocks would be 2500+lbs, which would support a 2000 lb machine without exerting any force on the springs?
It seems I've errored in my calculations, what I'm doing wrong?
I’m not following your science haha, the 200psi is pushing against the oil and set at 200 when the shock is fully extended as you set the vehicle weight down the shock compresses under that weight therefor the IFP piston moves inside the resi and the 200psi will be increasing as the area for the nitrogen decreases…. Not sure what square inches or 628 has to do with it please explain your thoughts some more for me to wrap my head around it!
Sorry for confusion.
If there is 200 lbs per square inches against a piston that is 2 inches in diameter (the area of a 2 inch circle is 3.14 square inches) 200 x 3.14=628 total pounds of pressure against the piston.
With the live valve shocks on the ES and ES special edition models can this be done? Or is it a different process?
Yes, it does not matter if it is live valve or not, we are currently fixing a 2023 with live valve that came in with 9" of ground clearance and is now back up to 14" with 160lbs of gear in the bed! all the IFP were blown inside the resi oil passed them and low on nitrogen and it only has around 700 miles on the machine...
Question...you was showing a standard krx spring. Would it be the same nitrogen concept on the electronic version
Exactly the same concept! Only difference on the ES is instead of manual shock clickers, it’s an electronic servo to go from soft to firm. Springs and all other inner workings are the same. UNLESS your shock is the Live Valve bypass shock.
Best line in the video: “Looks like you are on a really boring pogo stick” 😂 Got to be careful when and where you say that!
😂
ok so my question is....are the schawder valves on the shocks the same as hvac valves or will you have to use a special something to put nitrogen in with?? thanks
The valves are just like on a tire but you need to use a zero loss gauge when charging them up so I guess you could consider that a specialty tool
Who in the Phoenix Valley do you recommend other than Shock Therapy?
We are not from that area so not to sure sorry
Ugh, I just installed new tender springs and found your video. Really think I screwed myself buying tenders.
Do y'all run with your sway bars hooked up? and do I risk having a shock come apart by running them disconnected?
We have removed the front sway bar completely from the machines, no you do not risk any shock damage without a sway bar. Sway bars jobs is only to control body roll in corners to help fight weight transfer it has no effect on shock droop/extension. The only way you can really damage the shocks is if you put an aggressive spring package with super party mode rebound tune and big heavy tires 😎
You had mentioned in one of your earlier videos, about doing a review in depth on the KAWASAKI INTERACTIVE DISPLAY. I would love to get your opinion on it! Is it worth it?
We will be putting that out shortly! It’s all personal preference. We run it on one machine, and Steve finds the cameras and tracking feature useful.
I highly recommend it. I have the 4 seat es se, and having the rear camera is super useful. It also gives you full diagnostic info, and it allows you to have your engine gauges in front of you, and your live suspension info on the display screen
You better not tell some of us KRX folks that we "may" not need to replace the stock tenders. That's a religion round here..
🤣🤣 right?!?!
Valving definitely goes further if your springs and pressures are setup properly
How can the combined rate be less than the rate for either of the two springs? How does the Math work?
Formula - (150x200) / (150+200) = 86lbs
Those are generic spring rates you can use your own numbers and that is why we use a dual rate system so for the initial amount of travel the spring is softer more plush and as you compress the shock it hits the cross over ring and jumps from 86 up to 200lb on the lower main spring to avoid bottoming out
Hope you find that helpful!
Awesome vid thanks for the info
Thanks for watching!
Great video.
Very helpful 👌 thanks
Thanks for watching!
👍
yall need a microphone when far away from the camera
We were wearing them they just weren’t plugged in properly in the camera, we didn’t catch it till after we had done all the filming. We may redo the video at a later date.