Thank you for spot on diy videos! Detailed without the fluff. I would rather watch a longer video covering details. Instead of one that skips details for their form of humor. Keep up the awesome work. Much appreciated!
**Important note on the bellhousing torque specs** At 25:15 you accidentally quoted the newtonmeter figures as ft/lbs. The small bolts are 34 ft/lbs and the long bolts 55 ft/lbs. Also worth noting theres and extra sensor on top of the transmission if you have a syncro rev match model. The clip for the sensor is very difficult to get, but it can be disconnected a few inches further along the loom. Do not forget to disconnect this, if you rip it out, theyre *extremely expensive*. Overall excellent guide, thanks for uploading.
Can't thank you more, i replaced cluth on 370z by seeing both of your videos,,, the detailed explanation of everything is just amazing. You didn't miss a point. Legend
That part where you're measuring your stack height, you see the long stem that sticks out when you use your Vernier caliper? It's called a probe, it's for measuring depth of a hole, exactly the kind of measurement needed for your stack height. Took me a while to realise that's what it's for myself.
Good video! You really need to do the RJM adjustable clutch pedal. It’s made my driving experience 110% better, and gets rid of that crap Nissan helper spring.
Correcting the OEM CSC problem now, while you're doing the clutch and flywheel is good preventive maintenance - something I learned during the time that I owned a Porsche. I bought a 2019 370Z 6MT sport pkg(current mileage ~39K) and flushed all of the fluids at approximately twice the frequency that Nissan recommends. I also periodically look at the color of the brake fluid to see if it's starting to darken any, so far so good with no problems. The brake fluid that Nissan recommends for this car is a special extra high temperature fluid that is pretty expensive but is necessary in order to resist oxidation and degradation. I suspect that some owners, and cheap shops, are cheaping out with regular hydraulic brake fluid that may be getting stressed out under the high operating temps in the bell housing and causing the CSC's seals to degrade and leak. If I ever have the clutch assembly taken apart I will probably do much of what you've done in this video.
I'm keeping it all OEM and hoping you're right. I like the feel of the 2018 clutch and OEM parts, so unless I made it a racecar, I'm not straying from the design. Nissan upgraded the clutch pedal in 2015, I think, with exedy. I already did a clutch fluid DOT4 GTR fluid change and will probably every other season.
25:10 Annotate this for others wishing to attempt this, you misinterpreted the FSM and over torqued all of the transmission bolts. Per the FSM, the 8 longer upper bolts *torque spec is 55 ft lbs* and the lower shorter 4 bolts *torque spec is 34 ft lbs*. Starter motor bolts is *35 ft lbs*. The Starter motor bolts are the only bolts on the transmission that does not have a washer, the rest of them do with the difference among them only being the length of the bolt.
I noticed you did not install the rubber boot and you can clearly see the clutch from outside the trans housing, which means, dirt and debris can get into there. and really jack things up.
Great video! I did the same elimination kit, it’s great as long as you adjust it right. After 20k miles and two years I’ve noticed there’s a small slave cylinder leak it may have been because I used racing brake fluid and didn’t change it
Great video and extremely helpful. One thing to add is to mention the removal of the cat or test pipe immediately after the transmission removal. This entire project was fun until the removal of the cat converter. I wish i would have removed it before installing the transmission back on.
I have long tube headers, is it going to be a problem? You took off your test pipe, but it would be a little more difficult for me to take off my headers.
WhAt determines the engagement point ? The bolt connected to the black bracket on the slave ? Mines feels like the engagement point is to small n at the bottom . Also can’t bleed it maybe if I bleed it would the engagement point change ?
Thank you very much for sharing. The explanation and detail of your video's was awesome. I was able to remove the transmission. The next thing is the clutch. Thank you.
hey i have questions i just finished installing my kit with your guide one question is does your clutch pedal feel like its loose from the top position to about half way then it’s catches also vice versa when clutch is all the way pressed and i go to release it it feels good up until halfway up the it basically has free play hopefully you respond thanks! great video by the way
I’d recommend bleeding the clutch fluid and if you have changed the Master clutch cylinder to replace that if it’s been a few years with the car with abnormal clutch fluid change.
Thank you for your video. But why the hell is nobody showing the disadvantages of the clutch and the lighter flyweel.....I really want to know if its daily driveable and if the noise is really that annoying. I really hoped for a little demonstration :(
Question. I have the same kit in my car, one random day I started to feel like my clutch feel got heavier from my muscle memory, and lately it has been more difficult to put it into gear sometimes I’m going to change my Tranny fluid to see if it makes a difference because I haven’t done that since I got this car so idk how old the oil is.. You think it could be the kit? Maybe the master starting to give out or air in the lines?
Has the z1 and csc held up? I’m debating on the same thing mainly because of your video! But I see a lot of people recommending the zpeed cmak instead.
Good job I have a problem here Would I be able to put the same throw out bearing you have on the video in my mid weight flywheel or I have to put a different one or is the same for midweight and lightweight Hope to hear from you soon thank you in advance and keep up the good work
really helpful video Carizon! I do have a question if I'm using the same old stock clutch with the CSC elimination kit, how or where do I get my shim thickness?
I would check the Factory Service Manual if you can get a hold of it. It may be worth checking with the guys at Z1 too, since they sell the oem clutch if I am not miataken.
I have a question for you, bought a g37 with the same parts installed z1 full face and csc delete. The clutch is very very stiff. Wondering if you had the same feel on yours? It grabs great and is drive-able but just seems incredibly heavy
Hello, thanks for the great video. I have 2009 Nissan 370z and looks like slave cylinder went out. How long would a project like this take? What is better elimination cylinder kit or a heavy duty cylinder kit? Thanks.
Would suggest heavy duty cylinder over the csc elimination. A bit less work and more reliable. Project would take you a weekend or so if you have some experience doing breaks/diff, etc. But just make sure you have a spare vehicle.
hey do yyou have a couple rear axle bolts missing unless you took them out when you were spinning the driveshaft it looked like some axle bolts were missing
Hey man, my csc is about to go out, and to get it replaced i need to drive about 2-3 hours away to my specialty g/z shop. My question for you is should i bother changing clutch fluid & bleeding clutch line prior to leaving to make the 2-3 hour drive? Thanks.
What made you chose the Z1 elimination kit vs the Zspeed? Any thoughts? Im plannin to purchase a csc delete kit i dont know which is better in quality etc.
Would like to know how drivability has changed with the 6 puck clutch versus stock, not sure which clutch to go with from Z1 but definitely want to install the lightweight flywheel when I go to do this. Thanks
Thanks for this awesome video, this is by far the most detailed instruction on the z1 csc elimination kit out there. I can’t shift into reverse half of the time without putting it back to neutral/release clutch/repressing clutch and repeating this process a few times, having a super stiff racing clutch makes it even worse. I’ve been told I need to adjust the csc kit, do you know exactly which part needs adjustment?
@@tarnjit458 it happens to me all year regardless of the temperature. My local mechanic told me it's not an easy fix, the transmission has to come down in order for him to make adjustment to the gear. I'll probably bring it to a performance shop that have installed these csc kits before
After removing the helper spring, felt a bit similar to stock. It is a bit more aggressive, and that engagement point is really narrow. But I had no issues adjusting.
How the hell do you tighten the top 2 bolts on the tranny without having to go from the top under the hood? I can’t for the life of me remember what combination of extensions and joints I used to removed them and now I can’t torque them.
Great video. Any idea on the average life of the OEM slave cylinders provided they're not too badly abused? I'm buying a 2017 tomorrow with 17k miles and I'm wondering if I should just do this out of the gate.
I've heard a wude range of life expectancies on them. Seems to vary wildely, I'm sure climate, use, and sheer luck in the build quality of the one you get are all factors.
Skip the shiming step if you bought a proper self adjusting CSC delete kit from zspeed. Otherwise, enjoy the headache of always adjusting your Z1 CSC delete kit...
Great Video! You mentioned you'd review the clutch in the next video but i haven't found any more info in your subsequent videos. I'm about to order parts to do exactly what you're doing here but a little torn on the 6-puck ceramic or just going with the full face organic. 6-puck looks really "streetable" from your videos but how is the clutch life on it? any other drawbacks? thanks if you get the time to respond here!
I've had it on for almost a year and a half now. It's been running well, I've heard the life on these can be pretty short lived, I've been told not to expect more tham a couple years out of it. I'll have to see, if that's the case may switch to a different unit.
@@thecarizon504 Dude, thank you so much for the fast response! Can be really tough getting useful info sometimes. Sounds like i should probably just go full face organic right now and then if/when i get closer to making a lot more power just switch to the 6-puck at that time. Also I am going to be making a video about the repair, won't be full tutorial, but definitely going to point people over here cause your hard work really shows in these videos. You're a legend!
@@thecarizon504 Short Answer: (Until further notice) try to bump up in the 400-500Hp range. Long Answer: Still uncertain because I'm not sure what direction to take the car, the body looks okay from 10ft but is FAR from perfect and I've done a ton of work to make the car mechanically sound from being totaled (and terrible repair job) from the previous owner. But not sure if i wanna go "flashy" with forced induction, bright wrap and big wang (kind of for YT sake), or more "performance" with unassuming outside but highly tuned insides with maybe the idea of, "as much NA performance i can get from it." In the end i just want the car to help facilitate my journey in becoming a better driver so it needs to hold up to some AutoX, track days, etc. and before my CSC died all i know is, i was sick of the clutch slippage. If the clutch is engaged i want the tires to spin or the motor to stall haha Just want to set myself up for success even if I'm not sure what adventure lies ahead.
Thanks! Checkout tye transmission removal video as well for a diy on pulling the tranny. The clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate come as a set from Z1 Motorsports. Six puck and light weight flywheel are the two options I opted for.
Nice vid install regarding the csc elim kit. I was more curious about that set up. There is a JWT metal version csc slave cylinder, not sure if you looked into that. Maybe I'd rather go for that keep things OEM on my z. And JWT flywheel w/ removeable friction face. Keep it up man! Looking forward to your upcoming vids
Hi, thanks you a lot, follow you video I did cultch replacement in my garage, I put a z1set with a unsprung disc, it feel so fast. just 1 thing I got clutch pedal very stiff, very hard, it’s unusual stiff, plz did you dot the problem before? Thank you again that I study a lot with you video.
Hey man it's not that bad just needs a solid amount of time and following instructions with the right tools And the labor from a shop would be a ton well over 1000$ the factory parts are also 1200$ for the clutch one so why not save money and upgrade lol. That's where I'm at.
Thank you for spot on diy videos! Detailed without the fluff. I would rather watch a longer video covering details. Instead of one that skips details for their form of humor. Keep up the awesome work. Much appreciated!
**Important note on the bellhousing torque specs**
At 25:15 you accidentally quoted the newtonmeter figures as ft/lbs. The small bolts are 34 ft/lbs and the long bolts 55 ft/lbs.
Also worth noting theres and extra sensor on top of the transmission if you have a syncro rev match model. The clip for the sensor is very difficult to get, but it can be disconnected a few inches further along the loom. Do not forget to disconnect this, if you rip it out, theyre *extremely expensive*. Overall excellent guide, thanks for uploading.
Can't thank you more, i replaced cluth on 370z by seeing both of your videos,,, the detailed explanation of everything is just amazing. You didn't miss a point. Legend
You are by far one of the best DIY I’ve ever seen. I just did a stage 3 clutch kit on my sons 370Z by following many of your guides. Thanks
That part where you're measuring your stack height, you see the long stem that sticks out when you use your Vernier caliper? It's called a probe, it's for measuring depth of a hole, exactly the kind of measurement needed for your stack height. Took me a while to realise that's what it's for myself.
Good man. I was thinking the same thing
Another great professional video, I love the calm and detailed explanation on how to do this. More enthusiast car channels should be like this.
Good video! You really need to do the RJM adjustable clutch pedal. It’s made my driving experience 110% better, and gets rid of that crap Nissan helper spring.
Good call. Or you can simply remove the spring.. that's what i did on my 370z. clutch has a much lighter feel afterwards
MrChips005 Yeah, but after I installed the RJM pedal... Nothing you do with the factory POS is just nonsense. I’m just sayin’ it’s amazing.
@@EatMyPropwash Where do you find this RJM pedal? i'd like to research more
MrChips005 just search rjm pedal 370z. Youll see it
I installed the RJM clutch pedal last summer and it made a world of difference, time and money well spent!
Correcting the OEM CSC problem now, while you're doing the clutch and flywheel is good preventive maintenance - something I learned during the time that I owned a Porsche. I bought a 2019 370Z 6MT sport pkg(current mileage ~39K) and flushed all of the fluids at approximately twice the frequency that Nissan recommends. I also periodically look at the color of the brake fluid to see if it's starting to darken any, so far so good with no problems. The brake fluid that Nissan recommends for this car is a special extra high temperature fluid that is pretty expensive but is necessary in order to resist oxidation and degradation. I suspect that some owners, and cheap shops, are cheaping out with regular hydraulic brake fluid that may be getting stressed out under the high operating temps in the bell housing and causing the CSC's seals to degrade and leak.
If I ever have the clutch assembly taken apart I will probably do much of what you've done in this video.
I'm keeping it all OEM and hoping you're right. I like the feel of the 2018 clutch and OEM parts, so unless I made it a racecar, I'm not straying from the design. Nissan upgraded the clutch pedal in 2015, I think, with exedy. I already did a clutch fluid DOT4 GTR fluid change and will probably every other season.
25:10 Annotate this for others wishing to attempt this, you misinterpreted the FSM and over torqued all of the transmission bolts. Per the FSM, the 8 longer upper bolts *torque spec is 55 ft lbs* and the lower shorter 4 bolts *torque spec is 34 ft lbs*. Starter motor bolts is *35 ft lbs*. The Starter motor bolts are the only bolts on the transmission that does not have a washer, the rest of them do with the difference among them only being the length of the bolt.
I was wondering if you could have used the depth measuring end of the vernier calipers to measure that stack height directly?
Your video's are amazing.
Most guys just goof around and don't make good videos. These are great!
I noticed you did not install the rubber boot and you can clearly see the clutch from outside the trans housing, which means, dirt and debris can get into there. and really jack things up.
Best explanation on UA-cam by far!!!!!
I finally a guy that can talk and edit. A RJM video would be great!
Great video! I did the same elimination kit, it’s great as long as you adjust it right. After 20k miles and two years I’ve noticed there’s a small slave cylinder leak it may have been because I used racing brake fluid and didn’t change it
Whts the idea of the elimination kit?
Great video and extremely helpful. One thing to add is to mention the removal of the cat or test pipe immediately after the transmission removal. This entire project was fun until the removal of the cat converter. I wish i would have removed it before installing the transmission back on.
Why did you have to remove it did it get in the way?
I have long tube headers, is it going to be a problem? You took off your test pipe, but it would be a little more difficult for me to take off my headers.
Did u adjust the pedal? My pedal only works when I'm goin half and gets hard any idea?
Should the throughout bearing and bearing sleeve spin independently???
What transmission jack is that/do you recommend? Skeptical to get one from amazon, bad reviews everywhere.
I don’t think you mentioned the torque spec for the rear transmission crossmember, do you happen to remember what the torque is for that?
Great content man👍. What transmission jack is that you’re using?
Thx for great content just replaced my clutch today watched your video great detail 👍replacing clutch master cylinder next.
WhAt determines the engagement point ? The bolt connected to the black bracket on the slave ? Mines feels like the engagement point is to small n at the bottom . Also can’t bleed it maybe if I bleed it would the engagement point change ?
Do yo recommend the csc delete on a stock clutch? Mine is going bad
From what I’ve heard yes
Thank you very much for sharing. The explanation and detail of your video's was awesome. I was able to remove the transmission. The next thing is the clutch. Thank you.
Is the clutch engagement low to the floor or did I do something wrong?
U said we’ll need the stack height later but never mentioned it again at least from what I noticed???
best diy tutorial video so far my clutch hasent gone out yet but i will install a new one in the future thanks also u got yourself a new sub
Are those 4x4 lumber under the car? Why was it necessary?
hey i have questions i just finished installing my kit with your guide one question is does your clutch pedal feel like its loose from the top position to about half way then it’s catches also vice versa when clutch is all the way pressed and i go to release it it feels good up until halfway up the it basically has free play hopefully you respond thanks! great video by the way
I’d recommend bleeding the clutch fluid and if you have changed the Master clutch cylinder to replace that if it’s been a few years with the car with abnormal clutch fluid change.
Thank you for your video. But why the hell is nobody showing the disadvantages of the clutch and the lighter flyweel.....I really want to know if its daily driveable and if the noise is really that annoying. I really hoped for a little demonstration :(
What a mad detailed video, so informative, clear and easy to view. Thank you so much
Question. I have the same kit in my car, one random day I started to feel like my clutch feel got heavier from my muscle memory, and lately it has been more difficult to put it into gear sometimes
I’m going to change my Tranny fluid to see if it makes a difference because I haven’t done that since I got this car so idk how old the oil is.. You think it could be the kit? Maybe the master starting to give out or air in the lines?
Has the z1 and csc held up? I’m debating on the same thing mainly because of your video! But I see a lot of people recommending the zpeed cmak instead.
I missed where you refilled the transmission oil. I hope you didn't forget
hahaha oh that would suck
Hey I have the same clutch and flywheel setup.do you think I could use the same numbers you came up with?
25:15 the shorts are 47 NM which is like 34 ft lb and the long ones are 75 NM which is 55 ft lb right?
That sounds correct
Man that extra long clutch line extension is ridiculous! Really expected Z1 to make it a proper length for the job
Good job I have a problem here
Would I be able to put the same throw out bearing you have on the video in my mid weight flywheel or I have to put a different one or is the same for midweight and lightweight
Hope to hear from you soon thank you in advance and keep up the good work
Man thanks for this one brother in the middle of doing this exact job in my G37s. Couple of maneuvers I did differently.
How long did the install take?
Is there a cover for the fork? It seems like dirt and water can easily get inside the transmission
There is a metal shield that goes over it to prevent debris from getting into the bell housing.
really helpful video Carizon!
I do have a question if I'm using the same old stock clutch with the CSC elimination kit, how or where do I get my shim thickness?
I would check the Factory Service Manual if you can get a hold of it. It may be worth checking with the guys at Z1 too, since they sell the oem clutch if I am not miataken.
@@thecarizon504 one more question... so, I installed my clutch kit from z1 and my clutch pedal feel so hard... is this supposed to be like that?
I have a question for you, bought a g37 with the same parts installed z1 full face and csc delete. The clutch is very very stiff. Wondering if you had the same feel on yours? It grabs great and is drive-able but just seems incredibly heavy
Clutch spring assist ?
Do you replace the flywheel or reuse the oem one?
Very detailed video! Rare to see these! Great job bro props! 💪🏽💪🏽
Hello, thanks for the great video. I have 2009 Nissan 370z and looks like slave cylinder went out. How long would a project like this take? What is better elimination cylinder kit or a heavy duty cylinder kit? Thanks.
Would suggest heavy duty cylinder over the csc elimination. A bit less work and more reliable.
Project would take you a weekend or so if you have some experience doing breaks/diff, etc. But just make sure you have a spare vehicle.
@@thecarizon504you didn't replace the rear main seal?
@thecarizon504 why did you go eith the z1 cmak over the zspeed cmak. The z1 kit looks like more work
Nice bro, would you recommend this set up for a daily driver along with the six puck or the full face disc for best of both worlds,
What is the proper way to break in a clutch ?
Any problems with the z1 elimination kit
Thank You for teaching us, how to do it very detailed explanation , Thanks again
hey do yyou have a couple rear axle bolts missing unless you took them out when you were spinning the driveshaft it looked like some axle bolts were missing
That was a clip from my diff install video when I took them out
Hey man, my csc is about to go out, and to get it replaced i need to drive about 2-3 hours away to my specialty g/z shop. My question for you is should i bother changing clutch fluid & bleeding clutch line prior to leaving to make the 2-3 hour drive? Thanks.
What did you use to find the torque specs?
Hey how did you get that clutch fluid line off by the test pipe? Mine is attached in a weird way
I did, just unscrews.
Is there play on your fork?!
Can we use the same measurements you took of the clutch and use it aswell if i have the same clutch kit
You'd probably be save if you have the exact same flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate but you should still check if possible.
I got stack height of 92mm is that normal ?
What made you chose the Z1 elimination kit vs the Zspeed? Any thoughts? Im plannin to purchase a csc delete kit i dont know which is better in quality etc.
It automatically adjusts so you don't adjust it manually as it wears.
To correct myself it's backwards that's why you should choose zspeed is the zspeed self adjusts
Im about to do this really soon, if we swap it out, are there gona be any code pop up on my dash?
Shouldn't be unless you damage a sensor. Be sure your confident in your mechanical skills in removing a transmission before starting.
Would like to know how drivability has changed with the 6 puck clutch versus stock, not sure which clutch to go with from Z1 but definitely want to install the lightweight flywheel when I go to do this. Thanks
Just got mine installed 2 weeks ago on my 370z. Love it but does take practice getting used to 1st gear.
@@Agnt-Pain i have the kit but not the tools yet. How's the difference?
It feels very tight and taking off in first gear is difficult getting used to at first but once you do it's amazing
Thanks for this awesome video, this is by far the most detailed instruction on the z1 csc elimination kit out there. I can’t shift into reverse half of the time without putting it back to neutral/release clutch/repressing clutch and repeating this process a few times, having a super stiff racing clutch makes it even worse. I’ve been told I need to adjust the csc kit, do you know exactly which part needs adjustment?
Having similar issues, not sure if its related to the cold weather since everything shifts smoothly after warmed up. Did you ever solve your issue?
@@tarnjit458 it happens to me all year regardless of the temperature. My local mechanic told me it's not an easy fix, the transmission has to come down in order for him to make adjustment to the gear. I'll probably bring it to a performance shop that have installed these csc kits before
Really detailed video keep up the good work but do u know if there are any differences with nismos
I believe the trans is the exact same.
The Carizon thanks
How’s driving with a puck clutch? How does the clutch pedal feel?
After removing the helper spring, felt a bit similar to stock. It is a bit more aggressive, and that engagement point is really narrow. But I had no issues adjusting.
yo this is going to help me out big time... but is there a reason why you didn't put the rubber cap back on over the fork?
It won't fit unless you cut a sizeable hole out of it. So instead the kit comes with a plate that covers part of the hole
@@thecarizon504 can't wait to my set up and these videos are such a huge help ..
Excellent and detailed video, Great work thanks.
Yea so 55ft iB for long bell housing bolts and smaller 4 bolts are 34ft ib
Does the clutch and fly wheel have any chatter ?
Light weight, so yes it will. The OEM one even does a little on all 350/370s, but dual mass is quieter.
8:10 Would a tape measure work to measure the stack height?
I’d suggest getting a caliper from harbor freight. Fairly cheap around 10 bucks
How the hell do you tighten the top 2 bolts on the tranny without having to go from the top under the hood? I can’t for the life of me remember what combination of extensions and joints I used to removed them and now I can’t torque them.
I may have shown what extensions I used in the transmission drop video but I went from the back of the tranny, not the top.
@@thecarizon504 that’s what I did I just had to man handle it
Great video. Any idea on the average life of the OEM slave cylinders provided they're not too badly abused? I'm buying a 2017 tomorrow with 17k miles and I'm wondering if I should just do this out of the gate.
I've heard a wude range of life expectancies on them. Seems to vary wildely, I'm sure climate, use, and sheer luck in the build quality of the one you get are all factors.
Mine went at 114k
a what does the breather tube hook up to or is it a open tube
Open to vent to atmosphere.
@@thecarizon504 cool thanks
What exact sealer did you use for the bottom four bolts? Great video btw!!
Thread lock
Is teflon tape adequate for these bolts?
Disliked by 3 AT owners who can't drive 6mt! XD
Near perfect video, thank you so much.
Skip the shiming step if you bought a proper self adjusting CSC delete kit from zspeed. Otherwise, enjoy the headache of always adjusting your Z1 CSC delete kit...
I followed your steps. Thanks for good video!
Good video THIS video HELP me for install my New clucth in my 370z thanks for YOUR help ROBERT FROM PUERTO RICO THANKS
does master cylinder really need to be relplaced too? z1 site recommends....
Do you have to replace it? I have an oem but don’t feel like taking the time to replace it too thanks
Great Video! You mentioned you'd review the clutch in the next video but i haven't found any more info in your subsequent videos. I'm about to order parts to do exactly what you're doing here but a little torn on the 6-puck ceramic or just going with the full face organic. 6-puck looks really "streetable" from your videos but how is the clutch life on it? any other drawbacks? thanks if you get the time to respond here!
I've had it on for almost a year and a half now. It's been running well, I've heard the life on these can be pretty short lived, I've been told not to expect more tham a couple years out of it. I'll have to see, if that's the case may switch to a different unit.
@@thecarizon504 Dude, thank you so much for the fast response! Can be really tough getting useful info sometimes. Sounds like i should probably just go full face organic right now and then if/when i get closer to making a lot more power just switch to the 6-puck at that time. Also I am going to be making a video about the repair, won't be full tutorial, but definitely going to point people over here cause your hard work really shows in these videos. You're a legend!
@@C_Robbins full face should work along with a high pressure plate. What power/tq you shooting for?
@@thecarizon504 Short Answer: (Until further notice) try to bump up in the 400-500Hp range.
Long Answer: Still uncertain because I'm not sure what direction to take the car, the body looks okay from 10ft but is FAR from perfect and I've done a ton of work to make the car mechanically sound from being totaled (and terrible repair job) from the previous owner. But not sure if i wanna go "flashy" with forced induction, bright wrap and big wang (kind of for YT sake), or more "performance" with unassuming outside but highly tuned insides with maybe the idea of, "as much NA performance i can get from it." In the end i just want the car to help facilitate my journey in becoming a better driver so it needs to hold up to some AutoX, track days, etc. and before my CSC died all i know is, i was sick of the clutch slippage. If the clutch is engaged i want the tires to spin or the motor to stall haha Just want to set myself up for success even if I'm not sure what adventure lies ahead.
Great video, I like products from Z1. I have do my research too, I maybe following your process to delete CSC from my G37S...
would you recommend to get a elimination kit when you get a new clutch ?
I would do the heavy duty slave cylinder instead
Respect sir!. How much less difficult is the job with just doing a HD slave vs the z1 relocation slave?
In hindsight I probably would have done the HD slave, the Z1 slave I have heard leaks after a couple years. And less chance for screw ups.
@@thecarizon504 thanks man.
What wing is that on the 370?
EVO-R GT Wing
Do you mind sharing your clutch set up?? Flywheel brand etc. please! Great video btw! Makes the job look totally doable 👏🏽👏🏽 Thank you!
Thanks! Checkout tye transmission removal video as well for a diy on pulling the tranny.
The clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate come as a set from Z1 Motorsports. Six puck and light weight flywheel are the two options I opted for.
The Carizon awesome !! Thank so much 🔥😤
is it common to have the clutch have such a short travel time?
I'm late af but can confirm bread trick definitely works
Was your clutch feel heavy? Mine is super heavy.
Not heavy it's lighter, just tighter
@@Agnt-Pain huh! Mine is extremely heavy but it is much tighter.
Nice vid install regarding the csc elim kit. I was more curious about that set up. There is a JWT metal version csc slave cylinder, not sure if you looked into that. Maybe I'd rather go for that keep things OEM on my z. And JWT flywheel w/ removeable friction face. Keep it up man! Looking forward to your upcoming vids
Just got my JWT HD clutch and flywheel its awsome as well as the zspeed hd csc
Hi, thanks you a lot, follow you video I did cultch replacement in my garage, I put a z1set with a unsprung disc, it feel so fast. just 1 thing I got clutch pedal very stiff, very hard, it’s unusual stiff, plz did you dot the problem before?
Thank you again that I study a lot with you video.
Holy crap I sure hope my clutch never goes bad. This one is beyond my skills, and I'd hate to see that bill if I take it to a shop
How much could it be 1k$
It is really easy to do it if you follow his instructions. But if you wanna play it safe, take it to a shop that knows about this kind of stuff
Hey man it's not that bad just needs a solid amount of time and following instructions with the right tools
And the labor from a shop would be a ton well over 1000$ the factory parts are also 1200$ for the clutch one so why not save money and upgrade lol. That's where I'm at.
which six-puck clutch kit is this?
Z1 sells it, I don't know the actual brand.
Just look up z1 six puck clutch.
22:30 is trans install
i used bread to remove my pilot bearing when i had my g35 and it worked. im gonna try it again when i change my clutch on my 370z
Did it work?
@@jdub7651 yes
Where are you guys located
North dallas metroplex
Just brilliant mate. Top video. Regards from the land down under!
Thank god this video exists👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Súper great video man keep uploading. Love your content
Yeah man thanks for your videos 👍🏻
Appreciate you, Boss. Thank you
I'm running out of patience trying to put the transmission back in holy shit
It is a BITCH