Breaking the Barrier, a good FIRST E1? Featuring the EB Strange climbing shoes.
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Climbing and chatting my way up Breaking the Barrier, E1 5b, at Holyhead Mountain, N Wales.
Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! bit.ly/3vhJwab
Or buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! bit.ly/3clZ1pc
/ jbmountainskills
/ jbmountainskills
www.jbmountains...
Shot on a Sony A6500 amzn.to/3dafMCz
Rode Wireless microphone amzn.to/33yvbu6
Mavic Air Drone amzn.to/2ISDmu1
GoPro Hero 7 Black amzn.to/2MPrAyZ
Anker power pack: amzn.to/2SEjRa1
On a Joby tripod amzn.to/3f8N0nu
Victiv Tripod amzn.to/2zSiSx5
Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! bit.ly/3vhJwab
Or buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! bit.ly/3clZ1pc
as someone that still hasn't popped my trad cherie, I really appreciate this kind of video . tks a lot
Nice to see some trad analysis! More please :-)
As someone waiting to dip my toe into trad - this was fun to watch.
Ah, takes me back to my uni climbing trips in the late 80s. Not climbed for decades, offshore yacht racing is my thing these days, but I live in Cornwall and am surrounded by classic cliff climbs, you've tempted an old man to have another bash
Have fun if you do get out!
Another cracking video Jez 👌👌 This route and king bee have been sitting on my to do list for ages
Get on 'em!
thanks for another great video. I've been looking for a good first e1 recently, might have to jump on this one soon!
Enjoy 👊
That looks ace!! Can't wait to get on real rock. Still hammering the boldering 1-2 times a week 💪
Perfect timing, I'm hunting around for my first E1 lead right now!
Enjoy it if you get on it and good luck on E1s in general 👊
Get on Looning the Tube in Australia area of the slate quarries. Easy for grade, good confidence booster and a really light rack of about 3 pieces of gear and 5 draws. Great fun route.
Another great vid dude. Managed to bag my first E1 lead the day after the RCI coarse. My second time on the slate, it just felt nice, so jumped on a route called fools gold at bus stop quarry. Really good gear and good ledges for rests, really weird how that E grade changes your thoughts on a climb, half way up i was still expecting there to be another crux move or something, after it was done i thought ive climbed HVS that have fellt harder. must have still been psyched after spending so much time placing gear etc with the pros ;) haha hope your well anyway man just thought id share
Yes mate, well done, that crux is no push over!! Good effort 👊
I love the talking while climbing! Get a GoPro and talk your way through some climbs! What are you looking for? What are you thinking about the next sequence of moves? How do you feel about the gear placement? Great video! Cheers!
I'll give it some thought, I just struggle at keeping the videos a sensible length!
The route is fair at the grade, and it's possible to rest most of the way, but in that first section the gear is definitely fiddly. It might be better than it looks, but that first brassy you place in the video looks pretty dubious - especially on its right-hand side. I can't quite remember what I placed, but it was a bit different, though equally "less than bomber" gear (possibly a half nut in the same slot and a micro to the left in the good hand). It's quite committing, for people who are less sure of their ability (like me!), to move up above slightly dodgy gear. I remember that, moving up, the no3 above is a bit too far to the front of the crack for comfort and that I also placed a micro because I wasn't 100% confident in the no.3 and I could see I had a short technical sequence to climb ahead during which it would be difficult to stop. This is what would make it challenging for a first timer - three small and less than perfect nuts, at the crux - and is also where they could get into trouble, if they lose the plot whilst fiddling in gear. If they don't get the gear right, stress out and fall off, they could face a bad ground fall. Or, if they just go the wrong way on the crux they could fall off onto less than perfect gear that might pop. Of course: no real E1 is going to be a complete walk, so it doesn't count this route out as a first E1. It's just that it's important to emphasise that people getting on this route need to be able to calm themselves down and place good gear even when it's fiddly and then read the rock well and move with confidence. I don't like that the Rockfax recommends this as a first E1, because it implies it is less serious that it is.
Casually pulling out the Sony whilst hanging on an E1... You make it look so easy 😅😅
Haha, thankfully all on the feet on that route!
what a great video! @jb, it's my dad's birthday coming up next week and he LOVES your videos, maybe you could give him a shoutout in your next one? (or even in the comments, it's Asa K). He's a big climbing person and he gets so excited when you post! Both of us are big fans, tysm!!
I'll give him a shout it the next one for sure 💪
came here by looking for an EB Strange shoes. so thanks for this little test.
Would you say that the shoes are designed for wide feet, more than narrow feet ? the EB website doesn't tell it. They look very interesting. Apparently they are well suited for multipitch and outdoors, and not so much for bouldering and indoor
Great vid as always Jez. Those shoes look good too. What shoes would you recommend to replace the Five Ten Whites / Blancos, I'm on my last pair now! Do EB do any shoes that would fit the bill?
Good question that... The Stranges aren't far off. Just as stiff on the front but let so than the whites in then midsole. Definitely very edgy.
Hey Jez Im not sure your website is working at the minute? Trying to buy a tee but keeps going blank. Just thought I better let you know so you don't miss out on any sales. 🤘
Thanks Ben, I think the link may have changed since this vid: bit.ly/3clZ1pc
@@JBMountainSkills hmmmm...no luck I'm afraid. I can get into your shop okay, but when I click on a tee it just goes blank 🤷
been doing a bit of trad lately, but its in Germany on already established Sport routes, and even the ones that have been left unbolted still have a uiaa Sport grade, so I have no idea at what trad grade I am actually climbing, the hardest route I have done trad to date was an 8- uiaa 6c+ Sport, with scant but safe placement, one placement however was just before the crux, of a terrible crimp where you dont want to hang around followed by a long dynamic move the bolts if you did it Sport are before the crimp on a halfway good hold, and the next one after the dyno wich makes it alot easier to climb, long Potential falls but never a grounder unless a bit of gear pops, but as I dont even know how the british tech grade equates to Sport I cannot really make a good call on trad grades. plus how the difficulty of placement affects the grade.
E4? www.guidedolomiti.com/en/rock-climbing-grades/
Hope the drone was ok
Sort of..!
Remember when there was EB's and PA's?
And that was your lot...nuffink else.
Life was simpler back then...
Not old enough I'm afraid...!
climbing with 2 ropes? they looked very different in diameter, maybe just the colour is misleading.
Yeah, they're a matched pair of Mammut Classics, 8.0mm
Ground fall for the poor drone RIP
Somehow it lives on!