Just wanted to say, to anyone watching this video. PLEASE SUBSCRIBE! UA-cam, in classic UA-cam fashion, took away my ability to monetize, since I don't have 1000 subscribers. It wasn't much, but it bought me a six pack on the weekends, and I'd really appreciate getting that back! Subscribing is easy and doesn't cost you anything, so if this was helpful, I'd really appreciate it!
Redline Auto -THANK YOU FOR POSTING! I use their products and I bought that product. I have clear coat scratches on my black 2013 Maxima and I want it to POP this summer. I also bought a buffer. What other tape can you get that does not leave a residue?
Nope! Compound works via abrasion. It will actually be more effective when wet, as the lubricants will aid in the process. Hard waxes on the other hand benefit from curing.
Nice! I've always enjoyed using Ultimate Compound. A couple tips, take it of leave it. It could help you cut out even more defects in one set of passes. 1. Spend the time getting that pad centered as possible. It will make for a much smoother operation, and extend the life of the bearings. 2. Dressing the pad is really personal preference. Consider that the action of the pad draws product in to the center of the pad. The center of the pad is also where the heat from the tool will manifest. This will end up murdering the pad. Try starting with four small drops around the perimeter, and reloading with 2 or 3 depending on the size of the section. 3. Slow down arm speed. The saying is "slow down to work faster". I heard Jason Rose (formerly Meguiar's, now with Rupes) say that. I usually do four section passes, but I do them slowly. 4. Reduce pressure. While you need some pressure, you don't want enough to crush the pad. That will hinder pad rotation, thus paint removal. If you ever get a scrap panel, and experiment with machine wet sanding, you will learn fast, the right balance of pressure, tool speed, and arm speed to get really effective results. It has also been my finding - numerous times that the green pad will out cut the orange and yellow from the Hex Logic series of pads. Give it a shot if you have one. If not, no big deal. I sold all my yellow, orange, and white pads from that line, and use the green, blue, and red.
Wow !! I used this on my black 2012 ES350 and it brought the paint out. Later that same day, the sum came out and the paint looks damn near showroom floor new, no swirls or cobwebs. I used an orbital buffer, 7 inch, to remove the wax.. If your car is black, invest in this product. It makes me not fear black paint !!
"I am going to peel the paint off"... wait for it.. wait for it... registers and "Good god not peel the paint off but peel the tape off"... thanks, I needed that laugh.. stuff looks good to me as a one step.
"Don't want to burn through the paint" Lol DA polishers like the porter cable don't generate much heat so you can move slowly without issues. In fact, you should move in a slow, and controlled manner for optimal results.
Meguiars Ultimate Compound was the first product I used and learned on when I started learning about paint correction. Least aggressive compound and easy n safe to work with as well as a good starting point for the least aggressive method used as far as in the case of this truck and the severity of the defects. As most stated, the pad did look a tad too wet so your cutting power of the pad might not be fully at 100% but either or not bad if your just learning as you go. If it was me, the next aggressive method I’d use that worked amazingly well and it was on paint exactly in this condition if not worse was Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound with Meguiars Microfiber Xtra Cut Disc. Just one pass using Porter Cable, I achieved 90% if not higher correction and finished soo well you could have left it like that without polishing it. Also I found it better to go slow with the polisher and 5-6 passes to really work the compound in and making sure the defects are getting worked out. If you’d like to polish faster then I’d upgrade the polisher to a higher performance n faster polisher machine like the Flex or Rupes. Rupes 21 for the bigger throw and surface area covered when correcting or the power of forced rotation on the Flex. Supposedly Rupes is in production already of making a forced rotation polisher called RUPES BigFoot LK 900E ‘Mille’.... This ones supposed to blow the Flex out of water.
Same here. The first time I ever used a da (after years of rotary use), I used UC on a Porter Cable 7424xp, and green hex pads. I ended up striking through the paint on my neighbor's roadster... Also the paint on the passenger door of my 03 Monte Carlo. Both times I was on speed 6.
This product actually works. I did not use buffer machine but I used a bit of pressure with my hands. The faint scratch is hardly noticeable when I had applied the ultimate compound to my 2010 Mazda 2 neo/demio
Thank you for showcasing this product. Based on tyour video, I would absolutely never use this product. my panels already look better than your afters. I see all kinds of scratches, and swirls from your use. The panel color you are using shows these marks very well, thank you. I almost bought this product, but it is way too aggressive for my planned use to eliminate light swirls.
Keep in mind that this was a ten year old truck at the time this video was recorded, and fresh out of an aggressive off roading trip. No product is going to completely eliminate that much wear and tear, especially not with a single quick pass.
Any wax or compound will remove some of those light scratches but the deeper ones that you see there need to be wet-soapy-soaked-sanded with 3000 grit and 5000 grit. Then apply those powerful super-cut M105 compound. Then apply swirl remover 2.0 and finalize it with professional #26 yella wax.
Thanks for the comment! Unfortunately, they were through the paint and into the primer. As a general rule of thumb, if you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, the best you can do is minimize the appearance. Smoothing the paint around it might make it less visible, but at the end of the day, it's still missing paint in that spot. It's a truck though! I've never believed in having a truck if you're not going to use it, so I'm not that worried about it. Have a good one!
Cville Auto Yeah i spotted that in 3m 34s and the comment you made about a general general rule of thumb above is spot on! You can't buff/compound a scratch if no there's no paint there because it's been scratched off!! I tell customers this all the time they aint a clue.Good video thou
So reflection wise it’s great do you still see all those surface scratches in any sort of lighting? I’ brought my truck to a detailer and he can’t get these type of scratches out 😂
Awesome just saw this. Trying to see the follow up but couldn’t find it . Going to try this on my Silverado that is Black and has car wash swirls and water spots
My paintings are new it's a 2017 car, but it was totally stained with bird poo, probed everything and nothing works, in VW dealer, I was told I had to paint it as nothing would remove it, so my last remedy was try out ultimate Compound and amazingly Its removed almost all the or birds poo spots, honestly I never spected that works that well.
Light Man Meguiars ultimate compound with orange cut pad is a pretty good starting point to learn on and use to safely remove defects, but as for bird droppings and other harder defects then my next aggressive approach that’s worked amazing was using Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound with Meguiars Microfiber Xtra Cut Pad. Now that will cut right through any defect and also finishes nicely. If that don’t work then wet sanding is the only option that will work unless the bird dropping cracked the clear coat which I’ve seen bird poo do that
i tried the ultimate compound by hand cause i had light swirls on my car... the result was your after, was my before ... and your before... became my after (i am not kidding)
you need to clay-bar first...it sounds like you didn't and the gunk imbedded in the clear coat caused worse scratching than you had once it was loosened and picked up by whatever you used to rub the compound in with
Using sandpaper to remove swirl marks is unnecessary with a properly applied and high quality compound. Any time you have to use an abrasive, even 5000 grit, you're thinning your clear coat. Compound is far more gentle than even 5000 grit sandpaper, so it's best to reserve wet sanding for scratches that are not through the clear coat but that are too deep for a compound to remove. There were definitely some scratches on the fender that I would have sanded if I cared enough about my truck to make the effort, but sanding the whole fender to remove swirl marks would have been unnecessary and would have reduced paint life.
What backing plate did you use? I keep seeing Velcro & hook backing plates for the porter cable but idk what's right for the chemical guys hex pads.. trying to buy the same setup.
I think you can achieve better result with total like 2-3 passes and then 1 time with their polish :) But that will cost a lot of time lol. But it is our hobbies so who cares, who enjoy working on our cars LOL.
Nope, by leveling the clear coat, the finer imperfections are cut down. What you see in a scratch or swirl mark is actually an imperfection in the clear coat reflecting light differently. By smoothing the clear out, you eliminate that different reflective surface and remove the scratch.
pbakai182 Fillers are goin to be in your glazes, waxes, sealants. Meguiars ultimate compound is micro abrasive so when used with a cutting pad, your actually removing the defects vs masking them
Dont know WTF Im doing wrong but I have similar paint to yours but with gold flake/pearl in it and Ive done everything as per videos on here and I aint getting any results with it at all, tried everything and even after 4 passes it still doesnt look any better. Using this compound with an orange hexlogic pad, tried fast, slow a litlle compound a lot of compound etc etcf etc bored now lol.
What is the recommended speed (rpm) for compounding? im using one with 2000 rpm and results are bad . Thx Should i get a polisher with different speed ratings? Thx
In response to both of your comments; whenever you compound, you want to work the product in until it becomes clear. This is how you know the abrasives have broken down and you've gotten the most of your compound. This will make it easier to remove (don't use anything but a clean microfiber cloth- rough towels do nothing but put those scratches right back into your paint) and remove the most swirls.
It's not completely necessary. But I would recommend it since some compounds and polishes tend to leave behind some sort of residue or grease or oils. Especially if your applying a coating or wax/sealant afterwards.
It actually sands away and removes a very very fine layer of clearcoat leaving a very smooth surface. There is no wax or coating making the shine. Thats the smoothness of the actual clearcoat paint job.
As a state certified detailer, I can tell you that with the right density pads, it's more about number of passes and even coverage than time spent in one spot. Once the product has lost most of its opacity, the abrasive compound has broken down anyway. With that Porter Cable working at 6800 oscillations per minute, you can cover a lot of ground pretty quickly.
Meguiars Ultimate Compound uses SMAT abrasives which do NOT break down(for all intents and purposes), as opposed to something like Menzerna that uses DAT abrasives which DO break down. Anyhow, as stated above, you are moving the polisher too quickly. Slow down the arm speed.
mark Saf It's also way more expensive then Meguiers, 3x more. does it do the job 3x or 4x Better? Also whag would be a good buffer to get for someone wanting to detail at home? I would also like to use 3m pads as i hear they are superior , Unless you can suggest brands just as good. Thanks for your response. 👍
EL EVO I'm using the harbor freight DA it's a replica of the porter cable and it works perfect for diy garage detailing. They're about $50 with the coupon
If you check the other comments, I've clearly stated that that statement was made as a catch-all for people using rotary buffers with wool pads. It's a lot easier to tell people to be careful than it is to make assumptions and let people eat their paint with tools that may seem the same to the average viewer.
Angel Lewis Sorry to hear that it gave you troubles! As with any detailing products, the most likely source of the error is in the method of application. Did you apply by hand or machine? What mediums did you use to apply? Finally, there is hope. This product simply isn't aggressive enough to actually cause paint damage by itself, unless there's a second factor involved. With the right product and the right method, you should have no problem repairing any damage done.
I have watched numerous before purchasing this product and was confident that it would increase the appeal of my vehicle. I applied it by hand and watched other videos of this product being applied by hand. I applied it in the shade after washing and drying off the car. I also did not let the product sit. I reread the directions on the bottle numerous times before applying to be sure that I am doing it correctly, applying it correctly and applying the correct pressure. Where I have applied the ultimate compound, it shows the patches where it was applied, as clear as day.
Just wanted to say, to anyone watching this video. PLEASE SUBSCRIBE! UA-cam, in classic UA-cam fashion, took away my ability to monetize, since I don't have 1000 subscribers. It wasn't much, but it bought me a six pack on the weekends, and I'd really appreciate getting that back! Subscribing is easy and doesn't cost you anything, so if this was helpful, I'd really appreciate it!
Redline Auto -THANK YOU FOR POSTING! I use their products and I bought that product. I have clear coat scratches on my black 2013 Maxima and I want it to POP this summer. I also bought a buffer. What other tape can you get that does not leave a residue?
I thought you had to let it dry a few minutes ??
Nope! Compound works via abrasion. It will actually be more effective when wet, as the lubricants will aid in the process. Hard waxes on the other hand benefit from curing.
have u ever use this product but have hard to remove some kind of scracth?
If you can feel it with your fingernail, it's permanent unless you find something to fill it with, like touch up paint.
Nice!
I've always enjoyed using Ultimate Compound.
A couple tips, take it of leave it. It could help you cut out even more defects in one set of passes.
1. Spend the time getting that pad centered as possible. It will make for a much smoother operation, and extend the life of the bearings.
2. Dressing the pad is really personal preference. Consider that the action of the pad draws product in to the center of the pad. The center of the pad is also where the heat from the tool will manifest. This will end up murdering the pad. Try starting with four small drops around the perimeter, and reloading with 2 or 3 depending on the size of the section.
3. Slow down arm speed. The saying is "slow down to work faster". I heard Jason Rose (formerly Meguiar's, now with Rupes) say that. I usually do four section passes, but I do them slowly.
4. Reduce pressure. While you need some pressure, you don't want enough to crush the pad. That will hinder pad rotation, thus paint removal. If you ever get a scrap panel, and experiment with machine wet sanding, you will learn fast, the right balance of pressure, tool speed, and arm speed to get really effective results.
It has also been my finding - numerous times that the green pad will out cut the orange and yellow from the Hex Logic series of pads. Give it a shot if you have one. If not, no big deal. I sold all my yellow, orange, and white pads from that line, and use the green, blue, and red.
Wow !! I used this on my black 2012 ES350 and it brought the paint out. Later that same day, the sum came out and the paint looks damn near showroom floor new, no swirls or cobwebs. I used an orbital buffer, 7 inch, to remove the wax.. If your car is black, invest in this product. It makes me not fear black paint !!
I have never polished a vehicle before and your comment was my thoughts exactly. Very nervous about a buffer of this magnitude.
"I am going to peel the paint off"... wait for it.. wait for it... registers and "Good god not peel the paint off but peel the tape off"... thanks, I needed that laugh.. stuff looks good to me as a one step.
"Don't want to burn through the paint"
Lol DA polishers like the porter cable don't generate much heat so you can move slowly without issues. In fact, you should move in a slow, and controlled manner for optimal results.
Yep, I was referring more to people who may be using rotary buffers and wool pads. Unlikely, but better to warn too much than too little.
Thanks!
Meguiars Ultimate Compound was the first product I used and learned on when I started learning about paint correction. Least aggressive compound and easy n safe to work with as well as a good starting point for the least aggressive method used as far as in the case of this truck and the severity of the defects. As most stated, the pad did look a tad too wet so your cutting power of the pad might not be fully at 100% but either or not bad if your just learning as you go. If it was me, the next aggressive method I’d use that worked amazingly well and it was on paint exactly in this condition if not worse was Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound with Meguiars Microfiber Xtra Cut Disc. Just one pass using Porter Cable, I achieved 90% if not higher correction and finished soo well you could have left it like that without polishing it. Also I found it better to go slow with the polisher and 5-6 passes to really work the compound in and making sure the defects are getting worked out. If you’d like to polish faster then I’d upgrade the polisher to a higher performance n faster polisher machine like the Flex or Rupes. Rupes 21 for the bigger throw and surface area covered when correcting or the power of forced rotation on the Flex.
Supposedly Rupes is in production already of making a forced rotation polisher called RUPES BigFoot LK 900E ‘Mille’.... This ones supposed to blow the Flex out of water.
Same here.
The first time I ever used a da (after years of rotary use), I used UC on a Porter Cable 7424xp, and green hex pads. I ended up striking through the paint on my neighbor's roadster... Also the paint on the passenger door of my 03 Monte Carlo. Both times I was on speed 6.
Man that's a huge difference, and I was worried about getting light swirl marks out lol
Prolly the best demo I've seen of this compound. Thanks man! much better than their own, already polished car, which shows no difference.
Dang that actually worked out really good, I'm going to try that with some overspray I'm trying to get rid of. Thanks
This product actually works. I did not use buffer machine but I used a bit of pressure with my hands.
The faint scratch is hardly noticeable when I had applied the ultimate compound to my 2010 Mazda 2 neo/demio
Also if you wax it once a week it actually brings out the coat much more effectively. The scratches do go away
Either this or pay someone to repray area.
Thank you for showcasing this product. Based on tyour video, I would absolutely never use this product. my panels already look better than your afters. I see all kinds of scratches, and swirls from your use. The panel color you are using shows these marks very well, thank you. I almost bought this product, but it is way too aggressive for my planned use to eliminate light swirls.
Keep in mind that this was a ten year old truck at the time this video was recorded, and fresh out of an aggressive off roading trip. No product is going to completely eliminate that much wear and tear, especially not with a single quick pass.
@@redlineauto8519 ooh, that is true. never considered. also, my car is biarritz white. that's like a whole nother animal to the dark paints
incredible result for one pass lasting 30 seconds or so. how does it fare with multiple passes?
It's all I use, go ahead Meguiars!
How long did it actually lasted? After only so many car washes?
Any wax or compound will remove some of those light scratches but the deeper ones that you see there need to be wet-soapy-soaked-sanded with 3000 grit and 5000 grit. Then apply those powerful super-cut M105 compound. Then apply swirl remover 2.0 and finalize it with professional #26 yella wax.
Thanks for the comment! Unfortunately, they were through the paint and into the primer. As a general rule of thumb, if you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, the best you can do is minimize the appearance. Smoothing the paint around it might make it less visible, but at the end of the day, it's still missing paint in that spot.
It's a truck though! I've never believed in having a truck if you're not going to use it, so I'm not that worried about it.
Have a good one!
Cville Auto Ok tank you
Cville Auto Yeah i spotted that in 3m 34s and the comment you made about a general general rule of thumb above is spot on! You can't buff/compound a scratch if no there's no paint there because it's been scratched off!! I tell customers this all the time they aint a clue.Good video thou
hey squirrel, you need to start out with a bit heavier grit than those.
It's not that deep.
Awesome, Will be ordering some soon. Thanks for your Video.
Great demonstration just bought some.
Hi that is amazing results. So did you clay bar before you used the da?
looks like good stuff- I have a ford ranger with a lot of oxidation -hopefully this will work
So reflection wise it’s great do you still see all those surface scratches in any sort of lighting? I’ brought my truck to a detailer and he can’t get these type of scratches out 😂
I have it. Never used it. It did an excellent job for You on the truck. Liked and Subbed to help Your channel.
Awesome just saw this. Trying to see the follow up but couldn’t find it . Going to try this on my Silverado that is Black and has car wash swirls and water spots
That was great. Can you test the turtle wax ice speed compound on something?
my friends, does the product work?
10/10 video. Well done man!
Thank you for sharing. Going to try some now!
My paintings are new it's a 2017 car, but it was totally stained with bird poo, probed everything and nothing works, in VW dealer, I was told I had to paint it as nothing would remove it, so my last remedy was try out ultimate Compound and amazingly Its removed almost all the or birds poo spots, honestly I never spected that works that well.
Light Man Meguiars ultimate compound with orange cut pad is a pretty good starting point to learn on and use to safely remove defects, but as for bird droppings and other harder defects then my next aggressive approach that’s worked amazing was using Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound with Meguiars Microfiber Xtra Cut Pad. Now that will cut right through any defect and also finishes nicely. If that don’t work then wet sanding is the only option that will work unless the bird dropping cracked the clear coat which I’ve seen bird poo do that
Cant complain at all!
Wow awesome I’ll be trying too now and that was stupid fast it took me almost two hours to wax my Beamer lol I’ll be buying both them thanks bro
My sister took her new black impala to the express car wash and came back with A LOT of scratch marks. Will this product work????
thx for video man...just what i was looking for
Thanks Alex
i tried the ultimate compound by hand cause i had light swirls on my car... the result was your after, was my before ... and your before... became my after (i am not kidding)
I was trying to buy this, but now im scared ,
Should i buy it man pls tell me?
you need to clay-bar first...it sounds like you didn't and the gunk imbedded in the clear coat caused worse scratching than you had once it was loosened and picked up by whatever you used to rub the compound in with
Any holograms/swirls after ultimate compound? I also have DA. Should I use finish after this?
Did you claybar before using?
Wet sand it with a 5000 grit first than use the Compound, makes a huge difference with those annoying swirls.
Using sandpaper to remove swirl marks is unnecessary with a properly applied and high quality compound. Any time you have to use an abrasive, even 5000 grit, you're thinning your clear coat. Compound is far more gentle than even 5000 grit sandpaper, so it's best to reserve wet sanding for scratches that are not through the clear coat but that are too deep for a compound to remove. There were definitely some scratches on the fender that I would have sanded if I cared enough about my truck to make the effort, but sanding the whole fender to remove swirl marks would have been unnecessary and would have reduced paint life.
If I do it by hand what do I use with the compound to buff it?
What backing plate did you use? I keep seeing Velcro & hook backing plates for the porter cable but idk what's right for the chemical guys hex pads.. trying to buy the same setup.
Yep, I used the stock hook and loop plate.
Buff and Shine makes the hex pads for CG, as well as the plates. Either will work.
Why is everyone going on about wet sanding? A machine polish is more than enough
Sometimes though, it's not! A wet sanding can even out some of the deeper scratches that a machine polish can't.
Cville Auto I've never seen a scratch that a machine can't get out that wet sanding can though
How many scratches exist in the world and what percentage of those do you think you've seen?
What speed you use with the Poter cable
Will it hurt the paint?
Hi! I would like to se a 2 or 1 step polish on a dall white car.
I think you can achieve better result with total like 2-3 passes and then 1 time with their polish :) But that will cost a lot of time lol. But it is our hobbies so who cares, who enjoy working on our cars LOL.
Hey guys, can I polish my black lug nuts with this compound?
would this scratches come back ???
Nope, by leveling the clear coat, the finer imperfections are cut down. What you see in a scratch or swirl mark is actually an imperfection in the clear coat reflecting light differently. By smoothing the clear out, you eliminate that different reflective surface and remove the scratch.
But aren't there fillers in the Ultimate Compound product that is intended to hide the finer scratches?
pbakai182 Fillers are goin to be in your glazes, waxes, sealants. Meguiars ultimate compound is micro abrasive so when used with a cutting pad, your actually removing the defects vs masking them
Where did you buy the buffer?
I sure would like to know where you got a porter cable polisher that cheap?
If you have heavy scratches you need to hit it with some wetsanding first.
I'd like to kn look w why in australia maguires cost 3x more than you guys pay?
Dont know WTF Im doing wrong but I have similar paint to yours but with gold flake/pearl in it and Ive done everything as per videos on here and I aint getting any results with it at all, tried everything and even after 4 passes it still doesnt look any better. Using this compound with an orange hexlogic pad, tried fast, slow a litlle compound a lot of compound etc etcf etc bored now lol.
can we did this with hand not with compound tools?
Sure! Results may not be as uniform, but it will definitely make an improvement.
excellent vid. tks...
What is the recommended speed (rpm) for compounding? im using one with 2000 rpm and results are bad . Thx Should i get a polisher with different speed ratings? Thx
4500 to 4800 rpm
this stuff if amazing
Eh, how come there’s no scratches under the tape?
Are you kidding? The cutoff line is literally at the edge of the tape. I peeled it off on camera, what more could you possibly want?
Good video
is it okey to apply this product to a brand new car?
my car get some scratches
would not think you would need a compound for a brand new car? A polish might be better, depending on what your goal is.
mine was hard to get off, maybe I used to much and what kind of cloth you use to take off compound
In response to both of your comments; whenever you compound, you want to work the product in until it becomes clear. This is how you know the abrasives have broken down and you've gotten the most of your compound. This will make it easier to remove (don't use anything but a clean microfiber cloth- rough towels do nothing but put those scratches right back into your paint) and remove the most swirls.
What cloths you recommend and what type,
I got chemical guys black light and some clay bars for my black car what kind of wax should i use ?
johnny ryder Chemical Guys Pete's 53. You're welcome 😉
You are asking an awful lot of that polish, you need a much more aggressive one but it did pretty good anyways
Nice!!!
After the compound do I have to use ipa ?
It's not completely necessary. But I would recommend it since some compounds and polishes tend to leave behind some sort of residue or grease or oils. Especially if your applying a coating or wax/sealant afterwards.
Why’d he hold the polisher like that ? lmao 😂
How would you prefer I hold my tools?
2-3 times & will look like brand new
Nice
Is this basically like waxing your car? Or competely different
asakapa0003 it's different this should not be done that much because it corrects the paint by taking away some clear coat, then polish then wax
asakapa0003 if you have swirl marks or imperfections. compound will correct it. wax is ment to help protect your paint.
wow!
So is this a polish or is it different
McCheto da boss polish dosent take out scratchs pr micro swirls compounds do
It actually sands away and removes a very very fine layer of clearcoat leaving a very smooth surface. There is no wax or coating making the shine. Thats the smoothness of the actual clearcoat paint job.
Want proper results, slow down. You are moving way too fast - that is NOT going to help at all. Give the product some time to work.
As a state certified detailer, I can tell you that with the right density pads, it's more about number of passes and even coverage than time spent in one spot. Once the product has lost most of its opacity, the abrasive compound has broken down anyway. With that Porter Cable working at 6800 oscillations per minute, you can cover a lot of ground pretty quickly.
Cville Auto referring to meguiars ultimate compound at 6800, their video states between 4800 and 5800 is recommended.
Meguiars Ultimate Compound uses SMAT abrasives which do NOT break down(for all intents and purposes), as opposed to something like Menzerna that uses DAT abrasives which DO break down. Anyhow, as stated above, you are moving the polisher too quickly. Slow down the arm speed.
mark Saf It's also way more expensive then Meguiers, 3x more. does it do the job 3x or 4x Better?
Also whag would be a good buffer to get for someone wanting to detail at home? I would also like to use 3m pads as i hear they are superior , Unless you can suggest brands just as good. Thanks for your response. 👍
EL EVO I'm using the harbor freight DA it's a replica of the porter cable and it works perfect for diy garage detailing. They're about $50 with the coupon
That's awesome... One of those is goin straight in my basket ooh er
Can you do this by hand??
Sure! It's made to be applied by hand, but you will likely have better and more consistent results with a mechanical buffer.
Nice 💯👍
too much product, too much of the oils on the paint, over-lubricating the surface and keeping the abrasives from working.
Exactly.
Same thing I said. A better pad, less product and slower more controlled passes would've had way better results.
can use with hand
Check Christopher Porter's comment down below.
never rub off in circle always work the compound in you went way to fast and had the tool at to high of an rpm
I did all car detailing and I still see swirls
I subbed to help get your 6 pack back
You cant burn the paint with a d.a. that the whole point.your not using a high speed buffer.you can tell you a rookie lol
If you check the other comments, I've clearly stated that that statement was made as a catch-all for people using rotary buffers with wool pads. It's a lot easier to tell people to be careful than it is to make assumptions and let people eat their paint with tools that may seem the same to the average viewer.
I know that is a truck but damn
Also in case people do not know doing this on a black paint is very impressive
This product completely ruined my hood on my car.
Angel Lewis Sorry to hear that it gave you troubles! As with any detailing products, the most likely source of the error is in the method of application. Did you apply by hand or machine? What mediums did you use to apply? Finally, there is hope. This product simply isn't aggressive enough to actually cause paint damage by itself, unless there's a second factor involved. With the right product and the right method, you should have no problem repairing any damage done.
I have watched numerous before purchasing this product and was confident that it would increase the appeal of my vehicle. I applied it by hand and watched other videos of this product being applied by hand. I applied it in the shade after washing and drying off the car. I also did not let the product sit. I reread the directions on the bottle numerous times before applying to be sure that I am doing it correctly, applying it correctly and applying the correct pressure. Where I have applied the ultimate compound, it shows the patches where it was applied, as clear as day.
Angel Lewis did you clay before hand?
yes patches of a nice finish.
you sound insane.
did you re wax after? you gotta re wax after.
Slow down; Do one inch a second and go in a cross hatch pattern. What you've posted is amateur'ish at best ... (not intended as an insult).