Anybody who would comment anything but “ thank you so very much “ is just an ass. This video is by far the best on on you tube . It gave me the confidence needed to tackle this project on my own. Thank you sir!!
Excellent, I used to watch that guy from down south until I found you, then I realized he's just a salesman. Your the best at what you do. Thanks for taking the time to to share your experience and expertise. I have a 2002 F350 that I bought off the lot new. It served me well shuttling supplies for my business, pulling our 5th wheel camper on vacations and hauling tools and building materials for my apartments. I never really needed to do anything other than routine maintenance for all those years. But now after watching your exceptionally informative training videos, I have begun the process of followed your advice and refurbishing my truck. The only problem is. I want to do it all at once and can't wait for more videos so I can keep learning. I recently had an issue where my truck would randomly stall while driving. I parked it in my driveway, and while I was installing a cam position sensor during the day, chipmunks were eating the wires over the drivers side wheel well. They chewed through sixteen wires and I couldn't figure out why the truck was having more issues and wouldn't start. I figured it was electrical shorts, so I ordered a wiring harness and in the process of taking the battery and filter housing off, I saw the chewed up wires. I spliced all the wires back together but now I have no oil pressure to the injectors and it's showing about ten fault codes. I replaced the IPR and have the harness in and ready to hook up. I'll be ready for a test start on a few days. Thanks again for your help
Remove the water pump, radiator and it'll make it a LOT easier to do. I did mine in about 3hr. Plus I got to wash out my radiator and block. The newer water pumps have a removable water neck on the bottom side so ya don't have to pull the pump off to get access to the front part of the oil cooler.
Love the detail. Love that you go the extra mile in cleaning and mild paint. Bugs me when people install a filthy part after rebuilding. I like to use anaerobic gasket maker because it doesn't set up and dry until you take oxygen away after coming in contact with metal and it's tacky enough to hold a gasket in place. No lid on the tube is needed and it won't dry up in the tube. It also does not need surface prep if your surface is clean.
Thank you Clint another great and informative video I had to replace the oil cooler on my truck 2 weeks ago at the cost of $ 1800 at a ford dealer So much for not having a garage to work in Thank you again
I like using headliner adhesive for gaskets and your correct rtv works great and thank you very much Clint Allen for mentioning to let it dry so it won’t move because people get in a hurry and that’s when people mess up thanks man your videos are still better than watching today’s movies !
good timing 2nd winter of having my cooler leak and having to keep the heater pluged in to avoid leaking at start up, just ordered the seals, i hope i trust fellpro , its only 10$ on amazon,oh yea i see you listend to the guy who posted about your ending not being on your vids anymore and ya , we like like your go home endings, thanks for all your vids i post them to the lost on 7.3 powerstroke clubs on face book,
Thank Ya Sir , my 97 is leaking , 246k miles , not sure if i can do this or not , but then i might try ,. I got no good place to work , but on the ground . Thanks for sharin Your Knowledge& Wisdom Sir !!
Hey Clint, great educational video on the oil cooler. That will more than likely be one of my next repairs. Since I got a new block heater and cord, I will wait till the weather gets nicer and do them both at the same time. Why lay on ice cold concrete….right🥶🥶
Any way you look at it, it will always be messy. Right next the oil filter housing there is a plug in the block. ( directly to the right of the second bolt you removed, it’s the one kinda angled down with easy access . ) that’s the one I removed to help get the coolant out. It’s also a good spot to add a temperature sensor. Good video as always.
Hey Clint- been tackling all these projects lately with much success thanks to your thorough explanations! I just put my oil cooler back in (coated with wheel paint and looks great btw!) Had no issues at all after letting it idle for 10 minutes. Plan to take it out for a driver later. I did notice that the alignment pin on the cooler is not perfectly centered on the oil side assembly after install. It's not all the way to one side but slightly off centered now after i snugged up the bolts. Will this cause runability issues down the line? Or is there some wiggle room there so long as the gap for the assembly is around the pin on the cooler? Thanks!
Clint...I'm a new subscriber and the original owner of a 99 F-250. Doing the oil cooler and found short bits of black sponge rubber in some of the oil tubes. It has been in a repair shop only a couple of times. I do the rest. Can't figure out what they are from. Can't add a photo.
That,s a definite foreign object that someone left behind some where in the engine when there was work being done to it The biggest concern that come to mind that it isn't plugging up the pick up tube in the pan YIKES
You just rinse out the purple degreaser in oil passage with hot water and put back in? Are you running compressed air or somehow displacing the water with oil or something before or is it ok to have small amounts of water in the engine? I’m worried about rust. I just did this following your cleaning process, but left the rear flange attached to the engine since I’ve got hoses coming off it to a bypass oil filter, just pried it apart with a flat head in the groove. Put back together with a ratchet strap
Hello Clint, Happy to have found the community and the vids. I'm a long time Early 99 F250 PSD owner. Today 450,000 miles later, I've had the truck since 2005. Help me out here. Last year I rebuilt the oil cooler because there was a trace of coolant in the oil according to Blackstone Labs. The issue is that the coolant reservoir is always low. I fill it up to the cold mark. Use the truck but it seems every few weeks I'm adding coolant. The water pump doesn't leak, There's no evidence of a leak on the ground. Hoses are good, clamps tight. Thermostat housing, no leak there and you mentioned in one of your videos that the head gaskets very seldom go bad. I'm not the only one who has this concern. So, in your opinion, where or why is the coolant level down? Where else do I need to check? Thanks in advance for your reply. Jeff K.
1st Diagnosis test cooling system by getting a extra coolant cap and install a male air connection so you can hook up compressed air to the bottle when engine hot and off run 20 psi and listen for leaks / 2nd D next if cooling system does not hold pressure with reg cap the cups could be the cause if the system holds pressure after driving hot cups good / 3rd D crack head, block cylinder cracked , head gasket get a extra grease gun tube install a npt to m 10x1 for screwing in to each glow plug start with 1 cylinder remove the glow plug install the tube run the other end into a container of water run 20 psi into the coolant bottle with that special cap you made and turn the engine with a bar at the crank and watch and listen for air into the bottle and listen for air leaking into the block / last the timing cover can be cracked where the oil cooler connects the first test should rule that out or if the timing cover is leaking into the hpop reserve the oil in there will have moisture not necessarily milky if its just a tiny leak //////////////// With the amount your loosing 1 off these should point you in the right direction In my experience keeping in mine I'm not standing in front of you engine seems like a cylinder wall issue not high enough to blow smoke not low enough to fill the pan
Thanks, Clint, for the quick reply. I have maintenance planned for April and the truck will be down for 2 weeks. I'll be performing coolant flush, all sensors and engine harness replacement. and a host of other maintenance related tasks. This has been a very dependable truck, replacing the 4R100 at 410,000 miles and two injectors last year at 435,000 miles. Turbo is original at 450,000 miles. Long live the 7.3! Jeff@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
I have a 97 crew cab that I want to restore for retirement. I plan on building an overland camper and flatbed trailer. How difficult would it be to rebuild my 7.3 myself? Any suggestions on shop manuals?
Good video.. But a quick question....If the pegs on the cooler tube do not line up with the marks on the housing what would happen?? I noticed mine in off a couple inches...
I'm getting conflicting information here. If I'm supposed to drain all my coolant I need to know what to put back in it. I have an 03 7.3 and the stores say that the vc-5 coolant is not compatible but that vc7b is. But then on other websites it says vc7b is for the 6.0 but I looked into the reservoir and it looks golden. I took a little bit out with a straw and put it on a piece of paper and it looks kind of yellowish golden color.
Ive seen pictures of blocked up coolers. Would a coolant filter help prevent this. Or do you think adding a coolant filter on these engines is a waste?
I follow regular coolant exchanges and I have 1/2 the fleet with coolant filters for me its a waist If your someone whom never changes there coolant it would be a option I say that because the micron rating of coolant filters isn't that fantastic so it may help but its no oil bypass filter thats for sure
another great video. thanks for the work you do. I just bought a crank no start '95 7.3L super duty. I tested resistance in injectors and glow plugs today.... all glow plugs have infinite resistance. two injectors were wonky. plan to remove valve covers to check all directly. should i upgrade to the more modern gaskets with one connector or should i stick with the original two plug per bank setup?
remove all coolant throw away, flush with a hose through the heater core and through the radiator, mix water and purple power X2 concentrate in a 5 gallon bucket 1 gallon of PP 4 gallons water fill radiator mix another top off and run for 20 minutes then flush as instructed above and do it 2 more times ( 1 gallon PP 4 gallon water ) so total 3 times Then flush flush flush when all bubbles are gone put in 7 gallons of distilled water to flush out the hose water and then fill with correct fluid/coolant //////////// This covers correct coolant for each years ua-cam.com/video/tIDPcsqrc8o/v-deo.html
yes change the oil again and the filter You take the chance of introducing contaminates directly to critical bearings and running them through the entire engine before it hits the filter again. Your choice ARE YA FEELING LUCK PUNK ! Dirty Harry quote
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD sorry I don't understand what you mean by that. contaminants to critical bearings? Contaminates from what, and what bearings do you mean?
@@chris5957 You asked if you should drain the oil I am telling you yes and install new with a new filter so no crap gets in the old oil from doing this re o ring job
Anybody who would comment anything but “ thank you so very much “ is just an ass. This video is by far the best on on you tube . It gave me the confidence needed to tackle this project on my own.
Thank you sir!!
Thank you, also you are the "Sully" of the diesel world.
Great video. Thanks, Clint enjoy your day
Great schooling 36:55
Great Video Sir!!
New O-Rings=$
Labor to install=$$
Learning to do a great job with a subscribe to
custom works = PRICELESS
Awesome video on the oil cooler cleaning,learned a bunch,thanks.....
Another great video! I’m glad someone is still loving on the 7.3. Thank you sir!
I didn’t know! Thank you, sir
Excellent, I used to watch that guy from down south until I found you, then I realized he's just a salesman. Your the best at what you do. Thanks for taking the time to to share your experience and expertise. I have a 2002 F350 that I bought off the lot new. It served me well shuttling supplies for my business, pulling our 5th wheel camper on vacations and hauling tools and building materials for my apartments. I never really needed to do anything other than routine maintenance for all those years. But now after watching your exceptionally informative training videos, I have begun the process of followed your advice and refurbishing my truck. The only problem is. I want to do it all at once and can't wait for more videos so I can keep learning. I recently had an issue where my truck would randomly stall while driving. I parked it in my driveway, and while I was installing a cam position sensor during the day, chipmunks were eating the wires over the drivers side wheel well. They chewed through sixteen wires and I couldn't figure out why the truck was having more issues and wouldn't start. I figured it was electrical shorts, so I ordered a wiring harness and in the process of taking the battery and filter housing off, I saw the chewed up wires. I spliced all the wires back together but now I have no oil pressure to the injectors and it's showing about ten fault codes. I replaced the IPR and have the harness in and ready to hook up. I'll be ready for a test start on a few days. Thanks again for your help
Great video
Thanks for the.
Great video appreciated
Nice. Im doin my.truck over... completely. Its taking forever by myself, but there's 10 things to do for every bolt that loosens
Great job. I have learned and can't wait for the next informational video. Thank you
Holy smoke look at that downpipe
Great video. Thank you. Moral of the story clean clean clean
Thank you very much.i watch your videos every evening.i own several 7.3 truck's and two buss
and you always give extra IMPORTANT tips others dont
Can you please put a video out on the difference on the earlier 99 and late 99
this I have with my Truck thank you for the video it was very helpful from NJ
Good install. I used a ratchet strap to put the cooler together, however the rubber mallet is good too.
Oh yeah. Gettin ready to do it.
Remove the water pump, radiator and it'll make it a LOT easier to do. I did mine in about 3hr. Plus I got to wash out my radiator and block. The newer water pumps have a removable water neck on the bottom side so ya don't have to pull the pump off to get access to the front part of the oil cooler.
I'm redoing my block heater, sure glad I found this video. Going to save a lot of time and hassles.. Thanks for all of your videos...
Thank you very much Clint.
Love the detail. Love that you go the extra mile in cleaning and mild paint. Bugs me when people install a filthy part after rebuilding. I like to use anaerobic gasket maker because it doesn't set up and dry until you take oxygen away after coming in contact with metal and it's tacky enough to hold a gasket in place. No lid on the tube is needed and it won't dry up in the tube. It also does not need surface prep if your surface is clean.
Also should add my oil cooler ports was blocked by silicone on the coolant side, another reason why I mostly resort to anaerobic.
That was very good.. extremely valuable information.. thanks clint
Great information 👍👏
Thank you Clint another great and informative video I had to replace the oil cooler on my truck 2 weeks ago at the cost of $ 1800 at a ford dealer So much for not having a garage to work in Thank you again
I like using headliner adhesive for gaskets and your correct rtv works great and thank you very much Clint Allen for mentioning to let it dry so it won’t move because people get in a hurry and that’s when people mess up thanks man your videos are still better than watching today’s movies !
Good 👍
Thank you. I am about to have to do this on my truck.
Thank you You've made alot of my repairs easier and less stressfull
Great detailed video as always, thank you Sir for sharing your wisdom with us dummies 😂
good timing 2nd winter of having my cooler leak and having to keep the heater pluged in to avoid leaking at start up, just ordered the seals, i hope i trust fellpro , its only 10$ on amazon,oh yea i see you listend to the guy who posted about your ending not being on your vids anymore and ya , we like like your go home endings, thanks for all your vids i post them to the lost on 7.3 powerstroke clubs on face book,
Thank you very much !
I support this content.
Right on
Awesome channel, great 7.3 content
Excellent video….
I used a power washer on mine to clean the tubes and then I made some rubber gaskets and air tested for leaks in the tubes.
another great vid
great information video thank you
Thank Ya Sir , my 97 is leaking , 246k miles , not sure if i can do this or not , but then i might try ,. I got no good place to work , but on the ground . Thanks for sharin Your Knowledge& Wisdom Sir !!
Hey Clint, great educational video on the oil cooler. That will more than likely be one of my next repairs. Since I got a new block heater and cord, I will wait till the weather gets nicer and do them both at the same time. Why lay on ice cold concrete….right🥶🥶
Great info , Thank you
Any way you look at it, it will always be messy.
Right next the oil filter housing there is a plug in the block. ( directly to the right of the second bolt you removed, it’s the one kinda angled down with easy access . ) that’s the one I removed to help get the coolant out. It’s also a good spot to add a temperature sensor.
Good video as always.
It's for the block heater.
@@rkalkes it’s also next to the block heater. It’s a 1/2” plug in the block
Thanks buddy keep em coming 👍👍
Have you done a video on the fuel pressure regulator?
Hey Clint- been tackling all these projects lately with much success thanks to your thorough explanations! I just put my oil cooler back in (coated with wheel paint and looks great btw!) Had no issues at all after letting it idle for 10 minutes. Plan to take it out for a driver later. I did notice that the alignment pin on the cooler is not perfectly centered on the oil side assembly after install. It's not all the way to one side but slightly off centered now after i snugged up the bolts. Will this cause runability issues down the line? Or is there some wiggle room there so long as the gap for the assembly is around the pin on the cooler? Thanks!
What ounce weight is the soft blow hammer you use to get the oil cooler together Clint? Thank You fir your videos !
Ever informative - thanks sir!
Thank You
Clint...I'm a new subscriber and the original owner of a 99 F-250. Doing the oil cooler and found short bits of black sponge rubber in some of the oil tubes. It has been in a repair shop only a couple of times. I do the rest. Can't figure out what they are from. Can't add a photo.
That,s a definite foreign object that someone left behind some where in the engine when there was work being done to it The biggest concern that come to mind that it isn't plugging up the pick up tube in the pan YIKES
I suspect the bits are rtv. I don't use it.@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
Good Stuff
You just rinse out the purple degreaser in oil passage with hot water and put back in? Are you running compressed air or somehow displacing the water with oil or something before or is it ok to have small amounts of water in the engine? I’m worried about rust. I just did this following your cleaning process, but left the rear flange attached to the engine since I’ve got hoses coming off it to a bypass oil filter, just pried it apart with a flat head in the groove. Put back together with a ratchet strap
Hello Clint, Happy to have found the community and the vids. I'm a long time Early 99 F250 PSD owner. Today 450,000 miles later, I've had the truck since 2005. Help me out here. Last year I rebuilt the oil cooler because there was a trace of coolant in the oil according to Blackstone Labs. The issue is that the coolant reservoir is always low. I fill it up to the cold mark. Use the truck but it seems every few weeks I'm adding coolant. The water pump doesn't leak, There's no evidence of a leak on the ground. Hoses are good, clamps tight. Thermostat housing, no leak there and you mentioned in one of your videos that the head gaskets very seldom go bad. I'm not the only one who has this concern. So, in your opinion, where or why is the coolant level down? Where else do I need to check? Thanks in advance for your reply. Jeff K.
1st Diagnosis test cooling system by getting a extra coolant cap and install a male air connection so you can hook up compressed air to the bottle when engine hot and off run 20 psi and listen for leaks / 2nd D next if cooling system does not hold pressure with reg cap the cups could be the cause if the system holds pressure after driving hot cups good / 3rd D crack head, block cylinder cracked , head gasket get a extra grease gun tube install a npt to m 10x1 for screwing in to each glow plug start with 1 cylinder remove the glow plug install the tube run the other end into a container of water run 20 psi into the coolant bottle with that special cap you made and turn the engine with a bar at the crank and watch and listen for air into the bottle and listen for air leaking into the block / last the timing cover can be cracked where the oil cooler connects the first test should rule that out or if the timing cover is leaking into the hpop reserve the oil in there will have moisture not necessarily milky if its just a tiny leak //////////////// With the amount your loosing 1 off these should point you in the right direction In my experience keeping in mine I'm not standing in front of you engine seems like a cylinder wall issue not high enough to blow smoke not low enough to fill the pan
Thanks, Clint, for the quick reply. I have maintenance planned for April and the truck will be down for 2 weeks. I'll be performing coolant flush, all sensors and engine harness replacement. and a host of other maintenance related tasks. This has been a very dependable truck, replacing the 4R100 at 410,000 miles and two injectors last year at 435,000 miles. Turbo is original at 450,000 miles. Long live the 7.3! Jeff@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
I have a 97 crew cab that I want to restore for retirement. I plan on building an overland camper and flatbed trailer. How difficult would it be to rebuild my 7.3 myself? Any suggestions on shop manuals?
Good video.. But a quick question....If the pegs on the cooler tube do not line up with the marks on the housing what would happen?? I noticed mine in off a couple inches...
Why not put the gasket sealer on the block side also? Just curious. Great video!
Question can a bad oil cooler cause coolant in the oil?
Thankyou
I'm getting conflicting information here. If I'm supposed to drain all my coolant I need to know what to put back in it. I have an 03 7.3 and the stores say that the vc-5 coolant is not compatible but that vc7b is. But then on other websites it says vc7b is for the 6.0 but I looked into the reservoir and it looks golden. I took a little bit out with a straw and put it on a piece of paper and it looks kind of yellowish golden color.
ua-cam.com/video/tIDPcsqrc8o/v-deo.html
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks
Ive seen pictures of blocked up coolers. Would a coolant filter help prevent this. Or do you think adding a coolant filter on these engines is a waste?
I follow regular coolant exchanges and I have 1/2 the fleet with coolant filters for me its a waist If your someone whom never changes there coolant it would be a option I say that because the micron rating of coolant filters isn't that fantastic so it may help but its no oil bypass filter thats for sure
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you appreciate the answer.
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD have you made a video about your set up and why you should or should not do it. If you haven’t would you make one in the future?
another great video. thanks for the work you do. I just bought a crank no start '95 7.3L super duty. I tested resistance in injectors and glow plugs today.... all glow plugs have infinite resistance. two injectors were wonky. plan to remove valve covers to check all directly. should i upgrade to the more modern gaskets with one connector or should i stick with the original two plug per bank setup?
I always in a rebuild upgrade to the single plug newer design No particular reason just prefer one wire run in the valley and under the covers
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks for the reply. i will follow your lead and upgrade
I really wanted to see the upgraded up pipe kit and where to get it. But i guess you haven’t posted that video yet.
? ua-cam.com/video/0AFMGZ_2ixw/v-deo.html
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you Clint!!!
One thing to add is to always take a blow gun and blow out the bolt holes.
what state are you in ?
Do you need to replace your coolant system if you have oil in the coolant as a result of oil cooler failure? Or should a hood coolant flush be fine?
remove all coolant throw away, flush with a hose through the heater core and through the radiator, mix water and purple power X2 concentrate in a 5 gallon bucket 1 gallon of PP 4 gallons water fill radiator mix another top off and run for 20 minutes then flush as instructed above and do it 2 more times ( 1 gallon PP 4 gallon water ) so total 3 times Then flush flush flush when all bubbles are gone put in 7 gallons of distilled water to flush out the hose water and then fill with correct fluid/coolant //////////// This covers correct coolant for each years ua-cam.com/video/tIDPcsqrc8o/v-deo.html
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you!
Oh another thing to add, I just dipped a shop rag in acetone and easily wipe off the green o-ring residue
so uh at 7:15 you said remove right up left but then immediately removed up right lift. Ill just do what I saw.
Rewatch, the one he says to leave is the one he removes last.
What would cause oil to come out of my 1997 7.3 power stroke engine radiator
oil cooler
Would a bad injector cup do that also?
@@jonsaircond8520 That scenario you would find oil in the fuel and fuel and oil in the cooling system
Ha, this is great I'm actually doing mine Sunday. I just did a fresh oil change 2 weeks ago. Do I just need to drain the oil to do this?
yes change the oil again and the filter You take the chance of introducing contaminates directly to critical bearings and running them through the entire engine before it hits the filter again. Your choice ARE YA FEELING LUCK PUNK ! Dirty Harry quote
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD do what?
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD sorry I don't understand what you mean by that. contaminants to critical bearings? Contaminates from what, and what bearings do you mean?
@@chris5957 You asked if you should drain the oil I am telling you yes and install new with a new filter so no crap gets in the old oil from doing this re o ring job
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I really hate being a damn stroke survivor sometimes, sorry man. You threw me for a loop when you saud bearings
It is so close to the exhaust manifold that I don't think it could do it's job at all.
THANKS Clint. Winding down the torque wrench is good advice also.
It’s “O”-rings…not “OR-ins”.
The man had a stroke dude!