I was changing my alternator in my 2007 Rav 4 yesterday. As a quick aside, yes Rav 4 is not that exciting, but the thing is 17 years old and aside from regular maintenance, I've only had to replace the alternator and the starter. Anyway, to detension the serpentine belt tensioner I had to use a 19mm ratchet which was fine, but the clearance was so limited. It took me 20 minutes to figure out the exact spot to get the ratchet in and there was really no room except just to detension. I'm an amateur mechanic by all measure and I think the thing I struggle with always is room to work.
That's awesome! Yeah I just did a j series Honda Ridgeline and finally found out about the Lyle heavy mass socket and instead of wrenching on it with 6-ft extension poles and using propane torches and jacks under the breaker bars. Just put it on my impact and it was off in seconds. The right tool for a job definitely makes things so much better.
That’s aluminum brother, it responds nicely to a little heat…just don’t get it too hot or it’ll become brittle (or melt). I also work in the marine industry and I’ve had to remove hundreds of nuts, bolts, and fittings that were oxidized in place. It’s definitely not an easy job, so I tip my hat to you for sharing this tip for everyone. There’s a lot of people out there that don’t have a clue as to how to remove bolts or fittings like that….so your video is probably going to help a lot of folks. Good job brother, have an amazing day!
In aircraft maintenance we call that a screw knocker, air hammer fitting with a handle and a 1/4 hex receptacle. Works wonders on the rusted sheet metal screws on clapped out 1960s aircraft somehow still flying around
Sure, if the engine is on a stand in the middle off the garage. lol Other than a Funny Car, I have never seen a vehicle that you are going to get that thing onto the exhaust manifold bolts while the engine is in the car. You may get lucky on a few thru the wheel wells, but that's about it.
I worked as a bost and yacht mechanic for 6 years. Ive never had to us anything other than mercrusiers tool for those gimble ring hinge pins and a simple propane torch heating the bell housing from the inside to loosen the locktight they use on them.
HAY THERE BUDDY SOMEONE'S GONNA CALL YA OUT ON THAT OH HEAT WILL RUIN IT WEAKEN THA METAL WAH WAH WAH 😪🤧 I'VE NEVER HAD ANYTHING FAIL AFTER USING HEAT ☝️BUT I NEVER BRING IT TO BRILLIANT RED IN THA FIRST PLACE
Since this is out of stock you can take an air chisel and cut the end off, then weld a 2" extension on it. Not sure if the tool would last but it will definitely get the job done
How has no one else seen that .. this is like one of those bad finger shaking tool sale videos from India 😂😂😂 it was clearly to small but for some reason your the only comment Ive found that caught it so far 🤦...
I been using a Pittsburgh half inch ratchet just like that one daily for over 6 years and I do mean hard work. That is the absolute best ratchet I have ever bought for under $100
@@grapeseed427 when I worked in a foundry, the majority of work was in places where a dropped tool was goodbye forever. No way in hell I was bringing anything more expensive than Pittsburgh to work. Surprisingly, they have lasted well over a decade. Only a hand full of sockets, 7/16, 1/2, 13mm, 3/4 (all 12pt) have eventually worn down after tens of thousands of bolts and probably close to a million impacts. No splits or fails. Just enough wear that on abused bolts and nuts they were slipping. The Pittsburgh swivel heads (green and grey handle) my 3/8 failed, the ratchet pawl got loose or something and quit engaging and no way to take those apart. People rag on HF and I think they're just big mad they spent five figures on tool truck name brand and it's not any better. The only thing I would say I missed was on deep well sockets, having the shoulder be only a nut deep. But easy enough to grab those in specific sizes.
Those (fine-thread) pins are held in with red loctite and torqued to 150-odd ft*lbs. Heat them up and you can crack them with a breaker bar. Impacting a stainless fastener blind tapped into aluminum a few times will trash the female threads. Anything "crusty" is the aluminum gimbal ring, not the (stainless) hinge pin.
I got a few of those. They work. I got all the exhaust manifold nuts off of an old 3406B CAT. Not one snapped off stud. That’s rare and would never ever happen otherwise.
Tire man here, I tell all the people that don't speak English that it's like rust but different. Ehh they always just nod and say yes to anything you say anyways...
@@tristanphillips8937yeah pretty much. Rust is specifically the corrosion of iron into iron oxide. So all rust is corrosion but not all corrosion is rust. It's all the same thing though cause it's just a metal oxidizing so calling aluminum oxide rust is TECHNICALLY wrong but you're just being an ass if you're constantly correcting people on that outside of an English class.
@@tristanphillips8937 slightly different. Found this just now: “Aluminum doesn't rust because it doesn't contain iron or steel, but it can corrode when exposed to oxygen and water. This process is called oxidation and it creates a thin, hard layer of aluminum oxide that protects the metal from further corrosion. The aluminum oxide can appear as a white or gray coating that's similar to aluminum's natural color, making it hard to see.”
@@harrisp584 rust is oxidation and so is corrosion, both seize bolts and compromise strength of parts. And depending on the alloy of aluminum it can keep corroding, I get that aluminum oxidation usually protects the rest of the metal from further oxidation but really it’s the same thing and getting caught up in the technicality’s is kinda just dumb😂 both processes are caused by the same thing and do the same thing so it doesn’t matter. We call iron/steel rust corrosion too right? So why not call aluminum oxidation rust
It was a game changer for me when I added an air hammer to my tool arsenal. Popping rivets, suspension work, shearing sheet metal, chiseling fasteners with broken/stripped heads off. Gotta get you one
Make sure the electrical connections that go into the water from your boat are properly insulated. Especially if you keep the boat in the water. The electrical current shorting out in the water and running through your outdrive can greatly accelerate corrosion.
I guess it was inevitable that one mechanic out of millions used an extractor that actually worked instead of breaking off and becoming impossible to drill.
This bit is great lol. The amount of stuff that needs to be removed with repetitive hits and twisted is ever increasing in the rust belt. These work great on stuck screws too. Spray a penetrating oil on them and vibrate them, first tighten a smidge,then loosen. Keeps you from stripping the Phillips head.
you got a big smile out of me. I want that tool setup! I have an air hammer, I have wrenches. Extractor (set, probably) and adapter is what I want. Neat. I'd add a good dose of penetrant but still. Cool.
This reminds me of a tool that was called a ' Woodpecker' used with a 4x rivet gun, at places that I used to work at, to remove stick screws... Very cool idea...
It's a stainless pivot pin and the housing is aluminum, so where do you get rust? It's aluminum oxidation and possibly some electrolysis? Thread lock is also used on threading to prevent loosening under engine power.
All forms of impact tools are life savers… and conversely rather than using it to get something out, in certain situations where there’s a stubborn screw refusing to go in to something hard then an impact driver can make sure that screw gets reaaaal deep and never comes back out…
When remaking it is good to use TefGel, a product that is used in the marine industry when making up dissimilar metals; it prevents galvanic corrosion.
One thing that I have learned from my first months on the job: ALWAYS use the proper tools! But also know how to adapt when you don't have what you need.
Hinge pins are made of stainless steel. The gimble ring and gimbal housing are made of aluminum. The aluminum suffers from galvanic corrosion in this pairing of dissimilar metals.
This totally my dad right here! Ill have worked on the same spot for an hour and ill give up and call my pops. He'll come over and in between a cigarette he'll have that bolt out and the new part halfway in already! Freaking dads i tell ya. 😅❤
Everyone needs an extractor set. Stripped out bolt on my Harley shift linkage. To top it off the linkage stripped, so I had to drive back home shifting by turning my foot into the linkage, I kept it in second and stayed on the streets on the way home.
@@ToolDemos You are not wrong. It was a struggle for a few miles and stopping at red lights really had me. But the Harley had enough torque to get out of it, I feel bad for the clutch though.
First time I removed the hinge pins, with all of the correct tools, one came out perfectly, but one pulled the threads out of the bell housing. Almost lost my mind as the boat and lower unit were in 'garage queen' condition. And, like everything else when doing boat maintenance, it happened a few days before boat vacation. Had to install a Time Sert to fix which was simple, but cost a lot to get in fast.
Super easy? Easy would've been using the correct bit. The stainless pin/fastener wasn't crusty. I had to remove some of these the other day. After none of the triple square bits fit properly I did a little research and found that it's 1/2" and a 1/2" hex bit was recommended..fit perfect. Work smarter, not harder.
So at work I don't always have air to run my hammer so I built an 1/2" drive adaptor for my SDS hammer drill I have one of the big Milwaukee M18 and put it in hammer only using the 15/16" wrench I made to fit a longer nut and that think hasn't let me down once.
I have something similar for my air hammer but it has a screwdriver but chuck and instead of using a wrench it has a handle. It’s perfect for those damn brake rotor securing screws that never want to come out.
It looked like it was already stripped before you used the first tool
It was. I stripped it before I decided to record how to get it out the ‘other’ way.
@@ToolDemos Some people are great thinkers,aren't they.
@@ShinkuGouki not you.
@@wolfrig2000
Dick
@wolfrig2000 what are you 7?
It's nice having the right tools. Also nice when you have plenty of room to work
💯
Yeah but there is no way that was the right size on the initial bit. Way too lose and floppy.
Also nice having the money for the tools 😂
@@jaalanodaicyr868was after he stripped it to be fair
I was changing my alternator in my 2007 Rav 4 yesterday. As a quick aside, yes Rav 4 is not that exciting, but the thing is 17 years old and aside from regular maintenance, I've only had to replace the alternator and the starter. Anyway, to detension the serpentine belt tensioner I had to use a 19mm ratchet which was fine, but the clearance was so limited. It took me 20 minutes to figure out the exact spot to get the ratchet in and there was really no room except just to detension. I'm an amateur mechanic by all measure and I think the thing I struggle with always is room to work.
When you got all the room in the world, sky is the limit.
True that.
yeah imagine trying to do this in a cramped engine bay
No, get an airplane for that. All the room in the world just tells your brain how much room you have to accumulate crap.
Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
- Archimedes
Lol, right?!
That's awesome! Yeah I just did a j series Honda Ridgeline and finally found out about the Lyle heavy mass socket and instead of wrenching on it with 6-ft extension poles and using propane torches and jacks under the breaker bars. Just put it on my impact and it was off in seconds. The right tool for a job definitely makes things so much better.
Heck yeah! Those crank bolts are legendary.
Easy part is getting the bolt out. The hard part is getting your easy out out of the bolt.
💯 Exactly what I just posted and now seeing your post afterwards. 🤨 😂
Just use a cut off wheel or a hammer
You guys ain't too smart. Right loosey
Just put it in a vice and turn it to the right.
REPLACE THE BOLT
That’s aluminum brother, it responds nicely to a little heat…just don’t get it too hot or it’ll become brittle (or melt). I also work in the marine industry and I’ve had to remove hundreds of nuts, bolts, and fittings that were oxidized in place. It’s definitely not an easy job, so I tip my hat to you for sharing this tip for everyone. There’s a lot of people out there that don’t have a clue as to how to remove bolts or fittings like that….so your video is probably going to help a lot of folks.
Good job brother, have an amazing day!
👍 yep, propane first,usually does the trick but I rarely see saltwater boats so that might be why.
If you use a heat gun that should be enough for thermal expansion to help.
God I always love the trade rule of "doesn't fit? *several loud smacks* now it does"
That’s right!
It's just an advanced form of percussive maintenance like banging on the side of your TV to get it to work! Violence DOES work for inanimate objects 😂
Sometimes the answer is finesse, most of the time the right answer is excessive hammering
When in doubt,hammer. Even more doubt is torch and angle grinder.
Accelerated percussive maintenance @@briandalpe4000
The joys of salt water and aluminum in close, constant proximity.
Yup
As an aircraft mechanic I have to deal with stripped panel screws all the time. We call those things “screw knockers” around here.
What a coincidence/small world, my wife has something we call that same exact thing! 😉
oh yeah. we called them wood peckers. absolute life savers when dealing with coin slot screws. well until it punched a captive nut off anyway.
Screw buster is the best
Why not just call it what it is? It’s an air hammer
We call it a screw knocker or buster
In aircraft maintenance we call that a screw knocker, air hammer fitting with a handle and a 1/4 hex receptacle. Works wonders on the rusted sheet metal screws on clapped out 1960s aircraft somehow still flying around
That air hammer attachment is killer for manifold bolts
💯
Yeah I almost want to try working on a Ford exhaust manifold with one of these.
Sure, if the engine is on a stand in the middle off the garage. lol
Other than a Funny Car, I have never seen a vehicle that you are going to get that thing onto the exhaust manifold bolts while the engine is in the car.
You may get lucky on a few thru the wheel wells, but that's about it.
Love broken bolts... mmm..
O2, EGT AND NOX sensors too!
I worked as a bost and yacht mechanic for 6 years. Ive never had to us anything other than mercrusiers tool for those gimble ring hinge pins and a simple propane torch heating the bell housing from the inside to loosen the locktight they use on them.
That hing pin is installed with red loctite. If you heat it will come right out.
It wasn’t stuck in the threads, it was stuck in the hinge area. The loose threads are the only reason why the outdrive was able to move up and down.
This is the correct response... I worked as a boat mechanic for years and red loctite is used on those hingepins. Hear um up and they will come out
Plus air hammers and bolt extractors don't mix well. No matter how much faster it might be... if it doesn't break.
HAY THERE BUDDY SOMEONE'S GONNA CALL YA OUT ON THAT
OH HEAT WILL RUIN IT WEAKEN THA METAL
WAH WAH WAH 😪🤧
I'VE NEVER HAD ANYTHING FAIL AFTER USING HEAT ☝️BUT I NEVER BRING IT TO BRILLIANT RED IN THA
FIRST PLACE
@@arthurn9237 call all you want,but know a Mercuser Master Mechanic is going to answer. BTW you only heat to 400 degree Fahrenheit to melt loctite.
Since this is out of stock you can take an air chisel and cut the end off, then weld a 2" extension on it. Not sure if the tool would last but it will definitely get the job done
Always good to use the right size bit, too. Of course it'll round out with one that's clearly too small.
How has no one else seen that .. this is like one of those bad finger shaking tool sale videos from India 😂😂😂 it was clearly to small but for some reason your the only comment Ive found that caught it so far 🤦...
Save me the typing time, thanks
@@jesusischrist1527 no no it's even worse. The bolt is held with red loctite. If he had RTFM he'd know he needed to heat it.
@@ObservationofLimits What is RTFM ?
I didn't expect much when I saw the Pittsburgh ratchet.
Mechanics have my respect. They have all the creativity and patience to do the job.
screwdriver head works great on the air hammer too.. Works for those body screws really well and the screw is often still good to use.
My father has been a mechanic for 40 years. I've helped him alot. It's stuff like this that made me go "nope, fuck ALL that nonsense."
I been using a Pittsburgh half inch ratchet just like that one daily for over 6 years and I do mean hard work. That is the absolute best ratchet I have ever bought for under $100
Only problem I've ever had with Pittsburgh is the small screws come loose. I pull them all out and hit them with green slip fit loctite.
@@ObservationofLimits absolutely right! I only have one screw but it's outlived a brand new duralast with one screw holding the head together 🤣
@@ObservationofLimits absolutely right! I only have one screw but it's outlived a brand new duralast with one screw holding the head together 🤣
haha yep, I grabbed a kit from them and it puts in work easy and I dont mind as much if someone yanks it out of the truck.
@@grapeseed427 when I worked in a foundry, the majority of work was in places where a dropped tool was goodbye forever.
No way in hell I was bringing anything more expensive than Pittsburgh to work. Surprisingly, they have lasted well over a decade. Only a hand full of sockets, 7/16, 1/2, 13mm, 3/4 (all 12pt) have eventually worn down after tens of thousands of bolts and probably close to a million impacts. No splits or fails. Just enough wear that on abused bolts and nuts they were slipping.
The Pittsburgh swivel heads (green and grey handle) my 3/8 failed, the ratchet pawl got loose or something and quit engaging and no way to take those apart.
People rag on HF and I think they're just big mad they spent five figures on tool truck name brand and it's not any better. The only thing I would say I missed was on deep well sockets, having the shoulder be only a nut deep. But easy enough to grab those in specific sizes.
Those (fine-thread) pins are held in with red loctite and torqued to 150-odd ft*lbs. Heat them up and you can crack them with a breaker bar.
Impacting a stainless fastener blind tapped into aluminum a few times will trash the female threads.
Anything "crusty" is the aluminum gimbal ring, not the (stainless) hinge pin.
Super easy. But I needed an air hammer, very long box wrench and a special stripped bolt extractor.
What is your point
''I just love tools that make easy work for even the toughest jobs, That was super easy!''
No self-respecting mechanic wouldn’t have these things
Never seize on stainless going threw aluminum boys. Helps a ton on boats
Everything is easy when you have the right tools
You’re only as good as the tools you have.
@@b4dmblm705 in the middle of nowhere when you have too repair with minimum amount of tools,you have to be more then very good with what you have,lol
And know how to use them.... Without breaking the shit up
@@b4dmblm705and know how to use
I got a few of those. They work. I got all the exhaust manifold nuts off of an old 3406B CAT. Not one snapped off stud. That’s rare and would never ever happen otherwise.
That was actually a pretty genius idea in general, props to the ingenuity
Seems well designed..
I fell like impact drill would’ve done this job all in one.
I love the shake and brake. I bought it as well lol.
No rust in aluminum it's called corrosion
Tire man here, I tell all the people that don't speak English that it's like rust but different. Ehh they always just nod and say yes to anything you say anyways...
It’s the same thing bud.
@@tristanphillips8937yeah pretty much. Rust is specifically the corrosion of iron into iron oxide. So all rust is corrosion but not all corrosion is rust. It's all the same thing though cause it's just a metal oxidizing so calling aluminum oxide rust is TECHNICALLY wrong but you're just being an ass if you're constantly correcting people on that outside of an English class.
@@tristanphillips8937 slightly different. Found this just now: “Aluminum doesn't rust because it doesn't contain iron or steel, but it can corrode when exposed to oxygen and water. This process is called oxidation and it creates a thin, hard layer of aluminum oxide that protects the metal from further corrosion. The aluminum oxide can appear as a white or gray coating that's similar to aluminum's natural color, making it hard to see.”
@@harrisp584 rust is oxidation and so is corrosion, both seize bolts and compromise strength of parts. And depending on the alloy of aluminum it can keep corroding, I get that aluminum oxidation usually protects the rest of the metal from further oxidation but really it’s the same thing and getting caught up in the technicality’s is kinda just dumb😂 both processes are caused by the same thing and do the same thing so it doesn’t matter. We call iron/steel rust corrosion too right? So why not call aluminum oxidation rust
It was a game changer for me when I added an air hammer to my tool arsenal. Popping rivets, suspension work, shearing sheet metal, chiseling fasteners with broken/stripped heads off. Gotta get you one
How did I get the extractor out? Click here: ua-cam.com/users/shortsULCPkBGtYCo?si=UI80PNyQxF7sBVfe
Thit shit syks
Just wanted to ask about it. Good job 👍
I haven't watched it but all you need to do is take some channel locks and rotate the extractor clockwise.
Mmmm
@@marlboroman71818😅
I'm new to doing my own work, and I've leaned that having the right tools makes a huge difference...
Yes, very true.
Shake your bolt, Do bolt shaker. Yeah thats its shake your bolt
I hate that this was the first thing I thought of
All I wanna do is zooma zoom zoom zoom!
Yeah, that’ll work
Thanks for showing me a new way to use my extractor nd shake and brake bit. Cheers bud 🍻
You bet
Make sure the electrical connections that go into the water from your boat are properly insulated. Especially if you keep the boat in the water. The electrical current shorting out in the water and running through your outdrive can greatly accelerate corrosion.
Hinge pins are stainless and don’t rust, they are also have lock tight applied to them and torqued to over 100ft lbs.
That is the coolest tool I've seen in many years! Shack & Break, love it!
I guess it was inevitable that one mechanic out of millions used an extractor that actually worked instead of breaking off and becoming impossible to drill.
I've used one of these to free up Duramax glow plugs that are very seized. Works great
Air hammers are usefull for so many things. Love those sockets at a 1/4 price of strap-on . I have two sets over 20+ year's without issue
I love male and female easy outs. When u have the right tools, shit goes so much easier.
It really works good when you got snap-on tools in your professional mechanic it don't go that way when you're not a mechanic
It’s a badass tool as long as you replace all the bolts and pins.
Yup
why would want to reuse that bolt?
That really long spanner is an aircraft spanner, they are so usefull, i use them for bell housing bolts to separate gearboxes from the engine on cars
This bit is great lol. The amount of stuff that needs to be removed with repetitive hits and twisted is ever increasing in the rust belt. These work great on stuck screws too. Spray a penetrating oil on them and vibrate them, first tighten a smidge,then loosen. Keeps you from stripping the Phillips head.
Usually on Merc Alpha outdrive bellhousing pins. They are locktited on the pin threads so a bit of heat is needed.
you got a big smile out of me. I want that tool setup! I have an air hammer, I have wrenches. Extractor (set, probably) and adapter is what I want. Neat. I'd add a good dose of penetrant but still. Cool.
It's always nice to have specialized tools when you need them. Although the harbor freight brand would've done the same thing.
I’ve had one of these for probably a decade, but I’ve never had to use it yet, it looks like it would work really well.
This reminds me of a tool that was called a ' Woodpecker' used with a 4x rivet gun, at places that I used to work at, to remove stick screws... Very cool idea...
Those are the best extractor bits there are, hands down.
It's a stainless pivot pin and the housing is aluminum, so where do you get rust? It's aluminum oxidation and possibly some electrolysis? Thread lock is also used on threading to prevent loosening under engine power.
All forms of impact tools are life savers… and conversely rather than using it to get something out, in certain situations where there’s a stubborn screw refusing to go in to something hard then an impact driver can make sure that screw gets reaaaal deep and never comes back out…
When remaking it is good to use TefGel, a product that is used in the marine industry when making up dissimilar metals; it prevents galvanic corrosion.
Wish I had this in the early 90’s when we were working on VW cv joints. They were notorious for stripping.
That’s one of my favorite tools in my box. It’s a life saver.
For every tool, there was someone who went "god damn it" and fixed the problem 😂
This tool also breaks loose cam bolts for alignments. Game changer.
SHAKE-N-BREAK ......... the man's version of shake n bake!
One thing that I have learned from my first months on the job: ALWAYS use the proper tools! But also know how to adapt when you don't have what you need.
3 busted bolt heads on a 115 merc thermo cover was a challenge, no option but a welder.
Nice tools bro
Challenge is right.
Nice job! I hate all that aluminum rust 😂
Thanks for that tip. The link shows sold out at Walmart. Ordered it at Amz for cheaper. Thanks for the reference nonetheless
Enjoy!
Well, going from Pittsburgh tools ⚒️ to Snap-On definitely helped a heck of a lot. 😊
Yeah, I am a bit of a tool snob. Lol
Pulls out the cleanest looking fastener Ive ever seen without a spec of rust on the threads.
Hinge pins are made of stainless steel. The gimble ring and gimbal housing are made of aluminum. The aluminum suffers from galvanic corrosion in this pairing of dissimilar metals.
😮 Saved this to a playlist! lol
That’s a really cool attachment for the air hammer I didn’t know existed. I think I’ll get one.
This totally my dad right here! Ill have worked on the same spot for an hour and ill give up and call my pops.
He'll come over and in between a cigarette he'll have that bolt out and the new part halfway in already!
Freaking dads i tell ya. 😅❤
Sounds like a great dad.
Heat is usually my go to. This thing would be great when you have something you can't heat with a torch.
Nothing beats having the right tools for the job.
I'll be getting one ASAP! Thanks!
Everyone needs an extractor set. Stripped out bolt on my Harley shift linkage. To top it off the linkage stripped, so I had to drive back home shifting by turning my foot into the linkage, I kept it in second and stayed on the streets on the way home.
That sucks
@@ToolDemos You are not wrong. It was a struggle for a few miles and stopping at red lights really had me. But the Harley had enough torque to get out of it, I feel bad for the clutch though.
The upgrade to air tools over hand tools saved my knuckles some harassment
Im not real heavy into boats but i could see this proving to be useful on cars too
First time I removed the hinge pins, with all of the correct tools, one came out perfectly, but one pulled the threads out of the bell housing. Almost lost my mind as the boat and lower unit were in 'garage queen' condition. And, like everything else when doing boat maintenance, it happened a few days before boat vacation.
Had to install a Time Sert to fix which was simple, but cost a lot to get in fast.
Nice work! Gotta love boats.
Thats the most genius use of an air hammer ive ever seen
The switch from Pittsburg to Snap-On tools was unexpected .
Super easy? Easy would've been using the correct bit. The stainless pin/fastener wasn't crusty. I had to remove some of these the other day. After none of the triple square bits fit properly I did a little research and found that it's 1/2" and a 1/2" hex bit was recommended..fit perfect. Work smarter, not harder.
Good job 👍. Usually people continue to use incorrect tools and make a complete dog’s dinner of it.
Very true!
You saw how corroded it was, but did you oil it and blowtorch it before trying to loosen it the first time?
Never had a screw type extactor that worked worth a dam. Drill and retap is the reality for alot of us
Just need a bigger hammer. 😁
I have that same airhammer wrench tool, thing works every time
This gave me that warm fuzzy feeling inside
🥲🥹
We did the same thing with a rotohammer and anchor bolts up on a pan deck.
So at work I don't always have air to run my hammer so I built an 1/2" drive adaptor for my SDS hammer drill I have one of the big Milwaukee M18 and put it in hammer only using the 15/16" wrench I made to fit a longer nut and that think hasn't let me down once.
Nice!
I have something similar for my air hammer but it has a screwdriver but chuck and instead of using a wrench it has a handle. It’s perfect for those damn brake rotor securing screws that never want to come out.
Thats cuz OMC/Mercruiser etc don't grease the bolts before assembling their outdrives/outboard lower units....
Wow, I do like watching tools. Go to work. Good job. Reminds me of a girl I want to knew. Snapper.
This video earned my sub
Thanks, and welcome to the channel.
I got one of these a long time ago and it works great, I just wish they added something to hold the socket
Dude that’s an awesome idea
Probably really fun getting that extractor out
Geez those are some really nice bits there holy cow where did you get those?
Glad that’s all the rust you have to deal with lol I usually am brown after working on cars
The air hammer and easy out is a very nice trick of the trade 👌 👍
As a mechanic, I have never thought of this before. That's cool
I like the method! Not sure where the rust is you are referring to. That knuckle still has paint on it and I didn't see any rust at the thread.
These have saved our ass too many times. These are a must have, period
Gimme the bolt shaker yeah gimme the bolt shaker. Shake your bolt for us dude, yeah, that'll do, thats a bolt right there
🎵🎵🤣
I liked how he used the harbor freight tools to break it and used the snap on tools to get it out