Well got everything ordered. Fingers crossed this will make me more mobile trekking into the swamps. Should have everything before the 20th. Thanks for all the videos. Ive pretty much watched them all. Excited to try out this set up. Its brutal hunting in Florida Swamps but that is were all the remaining mature buck are. In way deep have to go through knee high water and get on the islands.
Be sure to watch the “Three Tips For Retrieving Your Rappel Rope” … and I do a full demo climb at the beginning of “Can You Hit Sub-10 lbs …” video to show my exact technique 👍
Normally I don't give negative comments if this is one, because I really like your channel so here goes. When you are making the loop at the end of the tether you can't see what you are doing.Otherwise this was an awesome video!
@@UncleBob369 Yeah, that's probably a function of trying not to burn Gabe out as my constant cameraman, LOL... for that segment, I just set the camera up on the tripod and did the best I could. The footage sure does turn out better when he's behind the camera panning and zooming as needed! :)
Great video! Thanks for sending! I’m new to saddle hunting (2 seasons) and one sticking looks the best route but I’m so used to the linesman and make me feel more secure
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to show others what you are doing, this video helped me a lot. I've used the off to the side technique all summer but have found this a much easier way to climb.
You, sir, produce some of the best demonstration videos! I like the idea of "one sticking", but I don't know if I'll ever try it. Even so, by way of your videos, I have a good idea as to what all is needed to make it happen and happen safely. Thanks, again!
I’ve been flipping back through, I have the One stick from Dano and have been wondering how you can lay your rappel rope across that without freying? I see you have paracord or something wrapped on it but do you have a single wrap or something different to keep it from rubbing?
Praise God for this video. I searched forever for the proper knot to tie on that quick link. The DoubleSteps dot com website recommends a girth hitch knot, but I don't think that is very safe. That scaffold knot looks WAY safer. So thank you for this.
Use an anchor knot. I use it when working in trees. It fits the definition of a good knot. A good knot hold fast, is easy to tie, and even after loading, it is easy to untie
I just received my first one stick 12" version from EWO with the bottom platform and a 3 step ultimator (Staggs recommendation) along with the roll-up pouch for the steps. I'm super impressed with what you get in such a small package. Yes it is a expensive but what you get outweighs the price. These things are built like tanks and I will be testing it for the first time this weekend. I alwus come back to your vids for reference
can you please give a link to your rope pouch that you are using, thanks in advance, love the videos, would love to see a close up picture of where exactly you position your s-biner for your Dyna-Glide on the tether, and how you use the your nite-eyez gear tie on your rope, for a stopper, before and after you rappel down. thanks again
Closeup of the pouch in this video: ua-cam.com/video/o9z1TtF3WyY/v-deo.html Closeup of the other stuff in these two videos: ua-cam.com/video/5iDtdKPyh8M/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/TVI3V3RUruo/v-deo.html
I actually ordered a GriGri just for this video... but when I got it in and examined it, I discovered that it wasn't rated to accommodate the rope I already had (and most people were looking to buy), so I sold it. Having the two alternative methods was enough to get people thinking that they didn't have to use JUST a Safeguard though, I think... I would like to play with a Beal Birdie sometime in the future though. Thanks for watching!
Curious what wasnt rated? Id like to know since I havent used it for saddle hunting yet and want to know what potential issues I could come across. Thanks!
@@ericaman5393 The original GriGri is only rated to be used with 10-11 mm ropes, if I recall correctly; that is the version that I bought, unknowingly. Petzl updated it in 2011 and in 2017 with GriGri "Plus" models. In 2019, Petzl once again launched a new rendition, simply callling it the GriGri once again, but it handles a wider variety off ropes. You have to be cautious if you're buying the old, original version or the newer, updated one meant to accomodate modern, thinner ropes if you're buying from the used marketplace. Your device probably states rope-diameter ranges right on the side.
Yeah, I used to include a “blooper” clip at the end of my early videos ... figured that was a great chance to share some more info but also revive the tradition a bit 😂 I told someone else if you’re gonna come in that hot, you may wanna look down at the ground a little sooner than I did 😁😊
@@StaggsintheWild Good for you! ... it shows humility, which is nice. Especially for someone new like me. I'm just in the gear-collecting process. Great description of the Mad Rock unit, can you tell me if there are pros/cons vs the GriGri device? They seem about the same to me. I know nothing at this point, but excited to get into it!
I like the Mammut Smart 2.0 device. I don't even consider using the Madrock anymore unless I am doing an SRT climb. The Madrock is a complete waste of money for one sticking. An atc with a friction hitch is the way to go. It is a lighter, smoother, quieter, and cheaper setup. I do keep a figure 8 as an emergency backup on me at all times.
It has been almost a year since you made this very helpful video. In January 2021, I set my first rappel rope very much based on what you showed (after watching your video). Now I am setting up a second rope because I am expecting some family members to occasionally hunt with me (plus I like having a backup gear). Would you do anything different in your rope setup? For example would you stick to using a quicklink or would you now use a delta link? Would you still use the scaffold knot tied as you showed, or have you learned anything that changed your mind?
Question, I live in Alberta, so it can be pretty cold, snowy and icy during the season. Lots of poplar trees which are kinda slick barked. My question is, does all that affect the usability of 1 sticking? The safety aspect as well? Do you see any reason why multi sticks would be a better option in those situations? Thanks.
Hey Josh, Here's what I've found from actual experience of one-sticking in a sleet storm... it was just as easy for me to climb using this method as it was to put up four sticks on a tree. Really, one is just about as safe as the other -- with the exception of perhaps it's better to be TETHERED in vs. merely using a lineman's belt that doesn't prevent a fall, but just holds you tight to the tree. The real safety aspect comes at the end of your hunt when you rappel down; there simply is no better or safer way of getting down than rappelling -- especially when you're cold and stiff. Now granted, you can rappel down even when using multiple sticks ... and a lot of guys are starting to do that even if they don't one-stick.
I am asking the question about how to prevent slipping with a knot or safeguard when using the tether as my repel rope like you do when rainy weather makes your ropes wet?
If you use a rope that’s in-spec, you shouldn’t see slippage ... I hunted a couple times in the rain last year and rappelled down with zero problems and no slips at any time. If you wanted to test it out and give yourself confidence, you could soak a portion of the rope and test it out at ground level.
I have one as well. I think the safeguard is better. Just a little quieter. I probably will never upgrade but if I bought new I'd hold out for a safeguard
@@danhoff4401 For sure. The Beal is a little "clicky-clacky" when hooking it up, etc. I bought it because all the reviews said it had a smoother release for descent than the Madrock, and being new to rappelling, if figured that was a good idea for me.
@@tommygunrva the noise is my main complaint I haven't figured out a good way to wrap it, keep function and silence it, I've considered threading my bridge directly into the birdie just to eliminate that metal on metal contact point but I'm not sure how that would work. Also since I broke mine in it will slip down a few inches without tension. This is a huge pain to be having to use two hands to readjust it while climbing to keep slack out of the system. I'm ok making a little bit of noise, but the main reason I like one sticking is that I only have a couple metal things to watch out for, even stealth stripped sticks are noisey. We are the only thing that clangs in the woods, alot of things make little bark noises.
@@danhoff4401 I hear ya. As far as the clicking of the carabiner, I wrap my biners in camo hockey tape. The opening and closing of the Birdie is the little bit of noise that still bothers me, although I'll bet you can't hear it 15 ft. away. I'm gonna try one-sticking this year! Did WEStepps w/ a Knaider/Swaider this past season, but I wanna see about stream-lining things even more.
Never. And I’ve got probably between 600-700 climbs on mine. My youngest son probably has close to 500 on his. My good friend who showed one-sticking to me might be around 800. None of us have ever had a cam cleat failure. Plus, even if you ever did … you’re tethered in the entire time snd you could just rappel down safely.
Thanks for the fast reply. Which cam cleat do you prefer and why? Also if I wanted to use a Cruzr platform, would you other getting a one stick with the big platform on top or just a regular climbing stick with a cam cleat?
@@michaellaura1231 this is the cam cleat 99% of us use... I prefer to buy it from EWO as they send the mounting hardware with it; otherwise, you'll pull your hair out trying to source Grade 8 bolts to install it with. doublesteps.com/product/harken-standard-cam-matic-cleat-150/
@@michaellaura1231 As far as your second question, I'd suggest putting at least a small flat Scout on top of your one-sticking stick; it really helps make it more comfortable when making your moves. Also, if you ever want to forego the additional platform, you could be ultra-minimalistic and hunt off JUST your stick. It would be a lot harder and suck more if you didn't have SOME sort of little platform up top.
What platform on the one stick do you prefer and why? I have the one stick coming and I got the u.p platform. Now I'm second guessing myself about the platform decision
I've played extensively with the UP, and of course we've got a TON of time under our belts with the flat Scout on top. I think I will probably still carry the stick with the Scout on most of the times.
Not so much a comment more a question. So I’m lucky and live about 5miles from the Sterling plant where they make most of these really cool ropes for this saddle hunting thing. So 1st is the oval threaded steel link your standard nickel plated one you’d find at any hardware store? It’s steel so I would imagine it is cuz it’s nickel plated steel. It’s not aluminum like the climbing rated carabiners it’s steel but maybe I’m not thinking that right? Secondly I was able to get about 38ft of Oplux free from a guy that works at the factory that should work good as I only seem to get to 20-22ft at most while hunting most of the time. However it’s 8mm not 9mm so can I still use a Madrock or a Gri Gri or do I have to go to a figure 8?
Hi Rick! Thanks for stopping in... No, the quick link is NOT just a hardware-store variety, and I talk about that quite a bit in this video: ua-cam.com/video/PalZ20-nmZg/v-deo.html I also discuss why I use the length of rope I do in that video.. and a bit about using 8 mm with Madrocks. :) To answer your question directly, you WILL be out of spec with both belay devices, but I know several folks who do it, and I have as well. But it IS out of spec.
Great question ... Oplux is 8MM and Canyon is 9MM. To stay within specs of the Madrock Safeguard, I went with canyon for one-sticking ... I personally know a couple guys who’ve used Oplux in their Safeguards and it slipped slightly on them. Not bad ... but when I move, I want it to be because “I” wanted to move, LOL! Now ... using the two alternate methods I show in this video? Oplux would probably be awesome!
This is the same reason I run Canyon. Oplux is out of spec for my birdie, otherwise I would run that. I considered running a jammy and a munter but if you SRT ascend ever the rappell device is kind of a must.
I'm super curious I have yet to see any videos about pulling your bow up with a rope!! I see you spliced into your canyon rope, so does that mean you just throw out all the rope on the ground tie it to your bow and start climbing while all that's hanging in the way?
Lol. It’s not on the way. Once you start climbing this way you’ll see that whether you have a tag end of two feet or 35’, it’s actually irrelevant - once that part or the rope is behind you, you don’t come into contact with it any more; that’s why I say it doesn’t matter how much is behind you. Hope that makes sense.
@@StaggsintheWild I guess I'm not so worried about the rope being in the way but then do you pull up your bow with that rope and put it in a sys hauler after you pull up your bow? Wondering if you just left it hanging I feel like that movement of hanging rope is something the deer can spot. Im going to be climbing with a roll pouch as whats used in this video. ua-cam.com/video/CjCAllwXmKo/v-deo.html
im interested in using my rappel rope as my bow pull up rope like you. however, i dont have a stabilizer on my bow. I was thinking of attaching a small biner to the dyno glide loop you spliced on. Then attaching the biner to my cam. Can you think of any red flags of doing this?
Other than the fact I’m not really fond of the metal-on-metal on the cam, I can’t think of any. I know lots of people clip a carabiner onto a cam. I used to use a plastic clip at the end of my paracord when I used it all those years … just less “harsh”. If that interests you, you could run the rope through one cam, down the length of the riser, and then clip onto the opposite cam. Just a thought.
@@StaggsintheWild fair enough! Perhaps I'll use a plastic biner like you or stealth strip the biner. Thanks for the reply! Also thanks for making these videos! They helped me so much!
So can I use a figure 8 with jammy auto block for ascending and descending. And can I use same combo to hold me like a madrock while I'm on my platform thanks!
Reach out to Matthew Tompkins through TX5 Custom Gear’s Facebook page ... he has someone helping him monitor that and it’s your best bet. You can email him at tx5customgear@gmail.com but he may be slower to respond to that.
Great video! What length Beal Jammy are you using? Seems the Canyon C-IV rope is out of stock all over the place. If one isn't using a Madrock, but instead a Figure 8 or a munter hitch, are there other acceptable ropes on the market?
@@StaggsintheWild So can I use a figure 8 with jammy auto block for ascending and descending. And can I use same combo to hold me like a madrock while I'm on my platform thanks!
@@saltyredtraitor2265 most people just use the figure 8 for descending. That’s what makes the Madrock Safeguard popular: it can be used for both descending AND ascending.
That’s why I say if you want it longer, go for it ... trust me; I wasn’t joking when I said it took me nearly 10 minutes to pry apart the original knot I’d made with a screwdriver off-camera ...tie that knot properly and it’s not doing anything but getting tighter.
@@johnrostocki6686 7 mm and 25 kn, though the one change I’ve made in my kit since I made this video is I’ve gone to a Notch V3 Quickie three years ago and it has a 30 kn rating.
There's a complete materials list in the first video, but a very quick rundown: The Ultimate Onestick, $224.99; Madrock Safeguard, $89.99; Sterling Canyon rope, $55.60; and DynaGLIDE pull-down rope, $10. Not counting carabiners but all saddle hunters probably already have those... And obviously I show alternatives to the Madrock in this video, including a no-cost option.
And that $224.99 is a completely assembled, ready-to-hunt stick. We show assembling one using parts we built to get the same end result in our second video that will save you a few bucks.
I haven't bought a saddle yet so to get one like yours is how much? I use to have the old TREE SLING and shot a couple deer using it. That was in the 90's. Didnt have sticks i just through a rope over a limb and climbed up the rope. At 35 yrs old i could do that not so much now. Lol
@@paulcrave3112 Buy all the parts and assemble one yourself... :) You'll see it's not that far off the mark. It's like when people question high-end sticks and wonder why they're almost $100 apiece... buy the tubing, the standoffs, the doublesteps, the versa buttons, the rope/attachment method and you'll quickly see you can't hardly build one for the cost of the parts. Now, can you do it with cheaper parts/materials? Sure you could... but this is what it costs when you're using the best parts out there, which these sticks are. Hope that helps and didn't sound too snarky. It was an attempt at an honest explanation. :)
I was gonna ask you on FB but figured I'd come and comment on your video... Do you interchange your platform on the stick? Like swap out for the UP sometimes or just have separate sticks? And would you trust the one stick rope for tree steps also or would you just use a separate strap? I'm using 2 steps at 3 & 9 o'clock now so I know I'm gonna want to have the same setup with the one stick
I have four separate ultimate one sticks: one with the UP, two with angled Monarchs, and one with a flat Scout. I use the one with the UP and Gabe uses an angled Monarch. Not exactly sure what you mean by the term “tree steps” unless you’re meaning would I use them on strap-on steps like Cranfords or something? If so … yes, but that would be a very expensive solution.
Ok, I re-read your question … for a ring of steps I think you almost have to have an over-center buckle on a strap … I can’t think of any other way to get them tight.
Another great tip is to leave a paracord loop in the tree if you want to hunt from it again for guys that SRT as well. I was surprised you let your rope down before doing that. I guess you aren’t an SRT guy?
You could use it on every move if you wanted to. Since this video, I’ve developed a technique to minimize tether slack that I’m quite happy with: I stop as soon as my first foot hits the bottom step and I slide the tether up again before climbing completely up on to the platform, at which time I’ll slide it the rest of the way up. You can see me do it in the demo climb I conduct here in “Can You Really Hit Sub-10 lbs As A Mobile Hunter?” on this channel
@@benjaminbunny99 here’s the way I look at it: it’s no worse than climbing a flight of three stairs. If I can’t climb three stairs it’s time to put me away in a nursing home. 😂
I’ve sat up to 3 1/2 hours at a time with it so far (I know, not tremendously long sits, but still ...) and had no issues. I think if I were going to attempt longer sits I’d pair it with a platform off to the side.
Would I need a prussik or auto block on the open end of my rope when coming down in addition to the madrock? Or is the madrock sufficient for everything?
@@benlykins4388 my opinion (and that of a LOT of one-stickers since I made this video …) is that if someone doesn’t trust the Madrock, they should use something else completely with an autoblock, like a Figure 8 or ATC.
@@StaggsintheWild thats the same one i got, ill quit worrying about it thanks lol. I climbed 35’ Saturday just to do it and I was trying to have faith in that link being big enough lol
I was wondering if it is suitable to replace the Madrock Safeguard. I know that Eastern Outdoors is using the Beal Birdie right now instead but they say you need a Prussik or autoblock. With the Madrock you do not need that and I am trying to skip that step.
I bought a used one last year from the Classifieds but sold it rather quickly after figuring out it wasn’t rated for the rope I was planning on using, so I really don’t have any real time with it.
The Lifeguard has a spring in it and the safeguard doesn't... I've seen several people say that the safeguard is more preferred to use the way we saddle hunters use it to rappel with, but I also know a young man who just got in a lifeguard and said he actually really likes using it. I don't have any personal experience with it, unfortunately.
Walking i to the woods with 4 pounds of gear. Walking into the woods with no back pack full of who knows what no bow nothing but climbing gear? I think is possible. But in a real hunting situation not possible..
😂😂 I’ve walked in with ONLY my bow and the things I can put in my pockets for 25 years straight … averaging over 100 sits per season and hunting everywhere from swamps to huge national forests. The only difference between the first 20-something years snd the last couple is I used to walk in with a LW hand climber and 5-point safety harness; the last couple years it’s with the setup I show in this video.
I used to include a “blooper” type clip on some of my early videos ... I thought this was a perfect chance to do that again 😂 Pro tip #437: look down to see where you are if you’re coming in that hot 😁😁
@@StaggsintheWild If you are coming down that fast you better watch out for your bow that is lying at the end of that rapelling rope for not to step onto it
There’s an entire playlist of one-sticking videos on this channel with multiple close-ups of every single thing you would need to see shown. Let me know what specifically you would like to see closer and I can tell you exactly which video and what time stamp it’s shown on.
Absolute best most comprehensive one sticking video on UA-cam. Thanks
good info...FYI you can use a marlin spike to undo tough knots...marlin spikes are used extensively in the sailing world...
Well got everything ordered. Fingers crossed this will make me more mobile trekking into the swamps. Should have everything before the 20th. Thanks for all the videos. Ive pretty much watched them all. Excited to try out this set up.
Its brutal hunting in Florida Swamps but that is were all the remaining mature buck are. In way deep have to go through knee high water and get on the islands.
Be sure to watch the “Three Tips For Retrieving Your Rappel Rope” … and I do a full demo climb at the beginning of “Can You Hit Sub-10 lbs …” video to show my exact technique 👍
Great video. Thanks for the info on rappelling without the clickity clackin hardware. Old school methods are much quiter.
Normally I don't give negative comments if this is one, because I really like your channel so here goes. When you are making the loop at the end of the tether you can't see what you are doing.Otherwise this was an awesome video!
I absolutely do not mind constructive criticism Bob! Which loop are you talking about? The continuous loop of DynaGLIDE?
@@StaggsintheWild the continuous loop. I know how to make one but I’m sure others don’t. You guys do an awesome job.
@@UncleBob369 Yeah, that's probably a function of trying not to burn Gabe out as my constant cameraman, LOL... for that segment, I just set the camera up on the tripod and did the best I could. The footage sure does turn out better when he's behind the camera panning and zooming as needed! :)
I was looking all over trying to figure out how to properly tie my rappel rope to a quick link ! Thanks a lot !!!!
You have the gift of explaining these things to make it clear. Thanks.
I really appreciate that you took the time to say that. Thanks!
Great video! Thanks for sending! I’m new to saddle hunting (2 seasons) and one sticking looks the best route but I’m so used to the linesman and make me feel more secure
Holy Crap did I learn a lot. Fantastic job!!! I’m a very old seasoned bow hunter but this one sticking really has peaked my interest. Nice work!!
Very good concise video. No wasted time looking for things. A lot of thought given to alternate repelling methods. 👍 Thanks
I just received a figure 9 descender and my rope is on the way from E W O.
Can't wait to try this.
Thanks
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to show others what you are doing, this video helped me a lot. I've used the off to the side technique all summer but have found this a much easier way to climb.
You, sir, produce some of the best demonstration videos!
I like the idea of "one sticking", but I don't know if I'll ever try it. Even so, by way of your videos, I have a good idea as to what all is needed to make it happen and happen safely. Thanks, again!
Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate it greatly!
Great video. I’d like to see tips and tricks dealing with leaning trees with 1 stick.
I’ve been flipping back through, I have the One stick from Dano and have been wondering how you can lay your rappel rope across that without freying? I see you have paracord or something wrapped on it but do you have a single wrap or something different to keep it from rubbing?
Praise God for this video. I searched forever for the proper knot to tie on that quick link. The DoubleSteps dot com website recommends a girth hitch knot, but I don't think that is very safe. That scaffold knot looks WAY safer. So thank you for this.
Great video. Thank you for showing various options and tricks to the trade. Looking forward to SH this season
Best of luck to you!
Phenomenal video!! Whoever was behind the camera did an amazing job.
Awesome video, really good explanation on how to one stick.
Awesome video!! Thank you for your time and concern for others by making these videos. Very informational! U the Man Greg!
I believe they call it “dressing it up” when you tighten the knot.
This really is a revolutionary way of bow hunting.
Use an anchor knot. I use it when working in trees. It fits the definition of a good knot. A good knot hold fast, is easy to tie, and even after loading, it is easy to untie
Fantastic videos. Well done 👍
I just received my first one stick 12" version from EWO with the bottom platform and a 3 step ultimator (Staggs recommendation) along with the roll-up pouch for the steps. I'm super impressed with what you get in such a small package. Yes it is a expensive but what you get outweighs the price. These things are built like tanks and I will be testing it for the first time this weekend. I alwus come back to your vids for reference
Just getting into this and have to say that this video is a wealth of tips and tricks. Plenty of "ah-ha" moments in there.
Im sooo excited to get into one sticking. Just got my dymaglide and canyon rope in today. Hopefully a madrock soon 😂. Then practice practice practice
Yep gonna have to do some one stick climbing
excellent video Greg! Its in my favorites now!
Thanks so much!! Really appreciate that!!
I told Dan O where to get a few. PM me if you need any.
can you please give a link to your rope pouch that you are using, thanks in advance, love the videos, would love to see a close up picture of where exactly you position your s-biner for your Dyna-Glide on the tether, and how you use the your nite-eyez gear tie on your rope, for a stopper, before and after you rappel down. thanks again
Closeup of the pouch in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/o9z1TtF3WyY/v-deo.html
Closeup of the other stuff in these two videos:
ua-cam.com/video/5iDtdKPyh8M/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/TVI3V3RUruo/v-deo.html
Great stuff! Thanks
I tried the Beal Bunny from REI. It works great. Another alternative
Great vid! Really enjoyed it!
Here we go! I’m almost 30’ high. Crash… There we go!
😂
Love the video by the way !
Another rappel device would be a petzl Gri Gri regular or plus. Probably a little more pricey but I already have one since my wife and I rock climb.
I actually ordered a GriGri just for this video... but when I got it in and examined it, I discovered that it wasn't rated to accommodate the rope I already had (and most people were looking to buy), so I sold it. Having the two alternative methods was enough to get people thinking that they didn't have to use JUST a Safeguard though, I think... I would like to play with a Beal Birdie sometime in the future though. Thanks for watching!
Curious what wasnt rated? Id like to know since I havent used it for saddle hunting yet and want to know what potential issues I could come across. Thanks!
@@ericaman5393 The original GriGri is only rated to be used with 10-11 mm ropes, if I recall correctly; that is the version that I bought, unknowingly. Petzl updated it in 2011 and in 2017 with GriGri "Plus" models. In 2019, Petzl once again launched a new rendition, simply callling it the GriGri once again, but it handles a wider variety off ropes. You have to be cautious if you're buying the old, original version or the newer, updated one meant to accomodate modern, thinner ropes if you're buying from the used marketplace. Your device probably states rope-diameter ranges right on the side.
Gotcha. I must have a GriGri 2 as mine is rated for 8.5mm to 11mm. Good looking out!!
Great informative video, thanks! I thought you were about to eat it last few seconds of video, coming in hot! 😆
Yeah, I used to include a “blooper” clip at the end of my early videos ... figured that was a great chance to share some more info but also revive the tradition a bit 😂 I told someone else if you’re gonna come in that hot, you may wanna look down at the ground a little sooner than I did 😁😊
@@StaggsintheWild Good for you! ... it shows humility, which is nice. Especially for someone new like me. I'm just in the gear-collecting process. Great description of the Mad Rock unit, can you tell me if there are pros/cons vs the GriGri device? They seem about the same to me. I know nothing at this point, but excited to get into it!
I like the Mammut Smart 2.0 device. I don't even consider using the Madrock anymore unless I am doing an SRT climb. The Madrock is a complete waste of money for one sticking. An atc with a friction hitch is the way to go. It is a lighter, smoother, quieter, and cheaper setup. I do keep a figure 8 as an emergency backup on me at all times.
Can you ascend, hunt off it, AND rappel with the Mammut without changing ropes?
It has been almost a year since you made this very helpful video. In January 2021, I set my first rappel rope very much based on what you showed (after watching your video). Now I am setting up a second rope because I am expecting some family members to occasionally hunt with me (plus I like having a backup gear). Would you do anything different in your rope setup? For example would you stick to using a quicklink or would you now use a delta link? Would you still use the scaffold knot tied as you showed, or have you learned anything that changed your mind?
I still hunt with the exact same equipment. I use a rubber fender washer to hold my quick link in place vs a gear tie though.
@@StaggsintheWild Thanks for your videos. They have been very helpful to many of us.
Great video. I’m about sold on this climbing / hunting method.
Thanks!! It’s so nice walking in with 4 lbs plus your bow and not being limited to tree choices nor a certain height.
@@StaggsintheWild yes. It’s definitely a game changer! I will be investing in the gear before next season.
GoOD Stuff! Thank u
Thanks
Hey brother, try the super munter. will be way more forgiving
The Munter I use in this video worked fine … I just prefer the Madrock.
Could you do the same thing as the bow loop on the tag end of the scaffold knot? That way you’d have something to clip the retrieval rope onto?
A couple people have started doing that after watching this video! 👍
Question, I live in Alberta, so it can be pretty cold, snowy and icy during the season. Lots of poplar trees which are kinda slick barked. My question is, does all that affect the usability of 1 sticking? The safety aspect as well? Do you see any reason why multi sticks would be a better option in those situations? Thanks.
Hey Josh,
Here's what I've found from actual experience of one-sticking in a sleet storm... it was just as easy for me to climb using this method as it was to put up four sticks on a tree. Really, one is just about as safe as the other -- with the exception of perhaps it's better to be TETHERED in vs. merely using a lineman's belt that doesn't prevent a fall, but just holds you tight to the tree.
The real safety aspect comes at the end of your hunt when you rappel down; there simply is no better or safer way of getting down than rappelling -- especially when you're cold and stiff. Now granted, you can rappel down even when using multiple sticks ... and a lot of guys are starting to do that even if they don't one-stick.
I am asking the question about how to prevent slipping with a knot or safeguard when using the tether as my repel rope like you do when rainy weather makes your ropes wet?
If you use a rope that’s in-spec, you shouldn’t see slippage ... I hunted a couple times in the rain last year and
rappelled down with zero problems and no slips at any time.
If you wanted to test it out and give yourself confidence, you could soak a portion of the rope and test it out at ground level.
I use the Beal Birdie for my belay device.
I have one as well. I think the safeguard is better. Just a little quieter. I probably will never upgrade but if I bought new I'd hold out for a safeguard
@@danhoff4401 For sure. The Beal is a little "clicky-clacky" when hooking it up, etc. I bought it because all the reviews said it had a smoother release for descent than the Madrock, and being new to rappelling, if figured that was a good idea for me.
@@tommygunrva the noise is my main complaint I haven't figured out a good way to wrap it, keep function and silence it, I've considered threading my bridge directly into the birdie just to eliminate that metal on metal contact point but I'm not sure how that would work. Also since I broke mine in it will slip down a few inches without tension. This is a huge pain to be having to use two hands to readjust it while climbing to keep slack out of the system. I'm ok making a little bit of noise, but the main reason I like one sticking is that I only have a couple metal things to watch out for, even stealth stripped sticks are noisey. We are the only thing that clangs in the woods, alot of things make little bark noises.
@@danhoff4401 I hear ya. As far as the clicking of the carabiner, I wrap my biners in camo hockey tape. The opening and closing of the Birdie is the little bit of noise that still bothers me, although I'll bet you can't hear it 15 ft. away. I'm gonna try one-sticking this year! Did WEStepps w/ a Knaider/Swaider this past season, but I wanna see about stream-lining things even more.
Have you ever had an cam cleat failures? Any way to back up the cam cleat? Thanks. Great videos.
Never. And I’ve got probably between 600-700 climbs on mine. My youngest son probably has close to 500 on his. My good friend who showed one-sticking to me might be around 800. None of us have ever had a cam cleat failure.
Plus, even if you ever did … you’re tethered in the entire time snd you could just rappel down safely.
Thanks for the fast reply. Which cam cleat do you prefer and why? Also if I wanted to use a Cruzr platform, would you other getting a one stick with the big platform on top or just a regular climbing stick with a cam cleat?
@@michaellaura1231 this is the cam cleat 99% of us use... I prefer to buy it from EWO as they send the mounting hardware with it; otherwise, you'll pull your hair out trying to source Grade 8 bolts to install it with.
doublesteps.com/product/harken-standard-cam-matic-cleat-150/
@@michaellaura1231 As far as your second question, I'd suggest putting at least a small flat Scout on top of your one-sticking stick; it really helps make it more comfortable when making your moves. Also, if you ever want to forego the additional platform, you could be ultra-minimalistic and hunt off JUST your stick. It would be a lot harder and suck more if you didn't have SOME sort of little platform up top.
Have you found any need to backup your bridge or the madrock? A second bridge or an auto block / prusik while using the madrock?
What platform on the one stick do you prefer and why? I have the one stick coming and I got the u.p platform. Now I'm second guessing myself about the platform decision
I've played extensively with the UP, and of course we've got a TON of time under our belts with the flat Scout on top. I think I will probably still carry the stick with the Scout on most of the times.
I have the Kong Quick Link Triangle can i use it or does it have to be the oval one?
Yours will be just fine. Good luck hunting!
Moosejaw had some Madrock Safeguards
Not so much a comment more a question. So I’m lucky and live about 5miles from the Sterling plant where they make most of these really cool ropes for this saddle hunting thing. So 1st is the oval threaded steel link your standard nickel plated one you’d find at any hardware store? It’s steel so I would imagine it is cuz it’s nickel plated steel. It’s not aluminum like the climbing rated carabiners it’s steel but maybe I’m not thinking that right? Secondly I was able to get about 38ft of Oplux free from a guy that works at the factory that should work good as I only seem to get to 20-22ft at most while hunting most of the time. However it’s 8mm not 9mm so can I still use a Madrock or a Gri Gri or do I have to go to a figure 8?
Hi Rick! Thanks for stopping in... No, the quick link is NOT just a hardware-store variety, and I talk about that quite a bit in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/PalZ20-nmZg/v-deo.html
I also discuss why I use the length of rope I do in that video.. and a bit about using 8 mm with Madrocks. :) To answer your question directly, you WILL be out of spec with both belay devices, but I know several folks who do it, and I have as well. But it IS out of spec.
Looking at trying out the figure 8 set up. What size Jammy is that you're using there? they have 35cm, 50cm or 60cm on the doublesteps site.
That was the 35 cm.
@@StaggsintheWild Thank you
Why don’t you use oplux instead of the canyon rope? It would pack down better I would think 🤔
Great question ... Oplux is 8MM and Canyon is 9MM. To stay within specs of the Madrock Safeguard, I went with canyon for one-sticking ... I personally know a couple guys who’ve used Oplux in their Safeguards and it slipped slightly on them. Not bad ... but when I move, I want it to be because “I” wanted to move, LOL!
Now ... using the two alternate methods I show in this video? Oplux would probably be awesome!
This is the same reason I run Canyon. Oplux is out of spec for my birdie, otherwise I would run that. I considered running a jammy and a munter but if you SRT ascend ever the rappell device is kind of a must.
I'm super curious I have yet to see any videos about pulling your bow up with a rope!!
I see you spliced into your canyon rope, so does that mean you just throw out all the rope on the ground tie it to your bow and start climbing while all that's hanging in the way?
Lol. It’s not on the way. Once you start climbing this way you’ll see that whether you have a tag end of two feet or 35’, it’s actually irrelevant - once that part or the rope is behind you, you don’t come into contact with it any more; that’s why I say it doesn’t matter how much is behind you.
Hope that makes sense.
@@StaggsintheWild I guess I'm not so worried about the rope being in the way but then do you pull up your bow with that rope and put it in a sys hauler after you pull up your bow? Wondering if you just left it hanging I feel like that movement of hanging rope is something the deer can spot.
Im going to be climbing with a roll pouch as whats used in this video. ua-cam.com/video/CjCAllwXmKo/v-deo.html
@@RedheadZ23 yessir. Once I pull my bow up, I wind it up hand-over-elbow real quick and stuff it in my TX5 dump pouch.
im interested in using my rappel rope as my bow pull up rope like you. however, i dont have a stabilizer on my bow. I was thinking of attaching a small biner to the dyno glide loop you spliced on. Then attaching the biner to my cam. Can you think of any red flags of doing this?
Other than the fact I’m not really fond of the metal-on-metal on the cam, I can’t think of any. I know lots of people clip a carabiner onto a cam. I used to use a plastic clip at the end of my paracord when I used it all those years … just less “harsh”. If that interests you, you could run the rope through one cam, down the length of the riser, and then clip onto the opposite cam. Just a thought.
@@StaggsintheWild fair enough! Perhaps I'll use a plastic biner like you or stealth strip the biner. Thanks for the reply! Also thanks for making these videos! They helped me so much!
So can I use a figure 8 with jammy auto block for ascending and descending. And can I use same combo to hold me like a madrock while I'm on my platform thanks!
Do you back up the madrock with a knot or auto-block while you are hunting?
No
Do you have a link for the buckles to attach the step to your saddle?
Reach out to Matthew Tompkins through TX5 Custom Gear’s Facebook page ... he has someone helping him monitor that and it’s your best bet. You can email him at tx5customgear@gmail.com but he may be slower to respond to that.
Great video! What length Beal Jammy are you using? Seems the Canyon C-IV rope is out of stock all over the place. If one isn't using a Madrock, but instead a Figure 8 or a munter hitch, are there other acceptable ropes on the market?
I’ll have to go back and look at the length of Beal jammy I used … if you’re going to use a figure 8 or something similar, you can use 8mm RescTech
@@StaggsintheWild thanks!
@@StaggsintheWild So can I use a figure 8 with jammy auto block for ascending and descending. And can I use same combo to hold me like a madrock while I'm on my platform thanks!
@@saltyredtraitor2265 most people just use the figure 8 for descending. That’s what makes the Madrock Safeguard popular: it can be used for both descending AND ascending.
From what I’ve seen, the tag end on your scaffold knot should be at least a palm’s width long.
That’s why I say if you want it longer, go for it ... trust me; I wasn’t joking when I said it took me nearly 10 minutes to pry apart the original knot I’d made with a screwdriver off-camera ...tie that knot properly and it’s not doing anything but getting tighter.
What is the diameter of your petzl quick link, what is KN rating?
@@johnrostocki6686 7 mm and 25 kn, though the one change I’ve made in my kit since I made this video is I’ve gone to a Notch V3 Quickie three years ago and it has a 30 kn rating.
Thank you very much for your prompt reply and information. You're the best.
So here's the big question. If i want to get into this, how much money is it gonna take to get set up with the same equipment you have?
There's a complete materials list in the first video, but a very quick rundown: The Ultimate Onestick, $224.99; Madrock Safeguard, $89.99; Sterling Canyon rope, $55.60; and DynaGLIDE pull-down rope, $10. Not counting carabiners but all saddle hunters probably already have those... And obviously I show alternatives to the Madrock in this video, including a no-cost option.
And that $224.99 is a completely assembled, ready-to-hunt stick. We show assembling one using parts we built to get the same end result in our second video that will save you a few bucks.
Yeah, $225 for the one stick seems excessive. Why so expensive?
I haven't bought a saddle yet so to get one like yours is how much? I use to have the old TREE SLING and shot a couple deer using it. That was in the 90's. Didnt have sticks i just through a rope over a limb and climbed up the rope. At 35 yrs old i could do that not so much now. Lol
@@paulcrave3112 Buy all the parts and assemble one yourself... :) You'll see it's not that far off the mark. It's like when people question high-end sticks and wonder why they're almost $100 apiece... buy the tubing, the standoffs, the doublesteps, the versa buttons, the rope/attachment method and you'll quickly see you can't hardly build one for the cost of the parts.
Now, can you do it with cheaper parts/materials? Sure you could... but this is what it costs when you're using the best parts out there, which these sticks are. Hope that helps and didn't sound too snarky. It was an attempt at an honest explanation. :)
I was gonna ask you on FB but figured I'd come and comment on your video... Do you interchange your platform on the stick? Like swap out for the UP sometimes or just have separate sticks? And would you trust the one stick rope for tree steps also or would you just use a separate strap? I'm using 2 steps at 3 & 9 o'clock now so I know I'm gonna want to have the same setup with the one stick
I have four separate ultimate one sticks: one with the UP, two with angled Monarchs, and one with a flat Scout. I use the one with the UP and Gabe uses an angled Monarch.
Not exactly sure what you mean by the term “tree steps” unless you’re meaning would I use them on strap-on steps like Cranfords or something? If so … yes, but that would be a very expensive solution.
Ok, I re-read your question … for a ring of steps I think you almost have to have an over-center buckle on a strap … I can’t think of any other way to get them tight.
Another great tip is to leave a paracord loop in the tree if you want to hunt from it again for guys that SRT as well. I was surprised you let your rope down before doing that. I guess you aren’t an SRT guy?
Nope. But great tip for those guys who are! I rarely hunt the same tree twice.
And I bounce around a BUNCH between conservation areas ... it might be three weeks before I’m even back in the same patch of woods.
Why a quick link vs a carabiner?
Great question ... carabiners aren’t meant to be side-loaded the way we’re doing so in this application. Quick links are.
Why would you not back that knot up?
You should try this with WE step, less space
WE Stepps are worth considering for some mobile-hunting applications; one-sticking isn’t one of them. 😉
What do with the rope in the cam cleat after you get it to hunting height? Picture?
Lots of detail showing your exact question in this video ... ua-cam.com/video/hF1v69KsYm4/v-deo.html
👍👍
But you can’t use your lineman’s belt after the first climb, can you?
You could use it on every move if you wanted to. Since this video, I’ve developed a technique to minimize tether slack that I’m quite happy with: I stop as soon as my first foot hits the bottom step and I slide the tether up again before climbing completely up on to the platform, at which time I’ll slide it the rest of the way up. You can see me do it in the demo climb I conduct here in “Can You Really Hit Sub-10 lbs As A Mobile Hunter?” on this channel
@@StaggsintheWild yeah, that’s how I do it too, but it still doesn’t seem the safest to me. Maybe I’m being paranoid. Thanks for the response.
@@benjaminbunny99 here’s the way I look at it: it’s no worse than climbing a flight of three stairs. If I can’t climb three stairs it’s time to put me away in a nursing home. 😂
@@StaggsintheWild 😂😂 true
Can you share where to buy the one sticking your using.
doublesteps.com/product/ultimate-one-stick/
We show it extensively in this video ...
ua-cam.com/video/CX6kVfkR4bI/v-deo.html
How is the scout platform for comfort on longer sits?
I’ve sat up to 3 1/2 hours at a time with it so far (I know, not tremendously long sits, but still ...) and had no issues. I think if I were going to attempt longer sits I’d pair it with a platform off to the side.
Would I need a prussik or auto block on the open end of my rope when coming down in addition to the madrock? Or is the madrock sufficient for everything?
I do not use anything but a Madrock.
@@StaggsintheWild Thank you for the info
m.ua-cam.com/video/1HIGTnOQ5yA/v-deo.html
Food for thought. I’ll be using an auto block come hunting season
@@benlykins4388 my opinion (and that of a LOT of one-stickers since I made this video …) is that if someone doesn’t trust the Madrock, they should use something else completely with an autoblock, like a Figure 8 or ATC.
What size is your quick link? I have the 25kn and im sure it’s fine but really thinking about a bigger one
This is the one we use ...
PETZL GO Screw Link 7mm www.amazon.com/dp/B000T2BTF4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@StaggsintheWild thats the same one i got, ill quit worrying about it thanks lol. I climbed 35’ Saturday just to do it and I was trying to have faith in that link being big enough lol
@@chrisadams4342 LOL. Yep. I have zero concerns with it 😊
Is the dynema pull down rope 1.8mm? I found some on wespur site.
Not sure … you could look on Eastern Woods Outdoors’ site - that’s where I get mine.
Yea I did what you said and confirmed that it is 1.8mm dynema. Thanks and keep up the great videos!
🤘🤘🤘
SEND IT!!!!!!
😂
What size dynaglide? Thanks
doublesteps.com/product/dynaglide-throwline-1-8mm/
always lock your carabiners, boys and girls.
Do you know anything about the grigri by Petz?l
I was wondering if it is suitable to replace the Madrock Safeguard. I know that Eastern Outdoors is using the Beal Birdie right now instead but they say you need a Prussik or autoblock. With the Madrock you do not need that and I am trying to skip that step.
I bought a used one last year from the Classifieds but sold it rather quickly after figuring out it wasn’t rated for the rope I was planning on using, so I really don’t have any real time with it.
Man idk I can tie that loop, a lot of processes lol
It’s super easy. Believe in yourself. You’re capable of more than you think! 😁
I purchased a madrock lifeguard instead of the safeguard. Would you know if they work the same. Can’t seem to find anything online
The Lifeguard has a spring in it and the safeguard doesn't... I've seen several people say that the safeguard is more preferred to use the way we saddle hunters use it to rappel with, but I also know a young man who just got in a lifeguard and said he actually really likes using it. I don't have any personal experience with it, unfortunately.
The lifeguard will not hold you if you release tension on your tether. ua-cam.com/video/jsjc7fbPojE/v-deo.html
If you release tension the lifeguard does not need to hold you but when you put tension back on it will hold again. Many people use them for this
@@goodtimekillers3262 so it will still lock with weight on it?
@@Snowball-ey5xq yes and if you keep tension on the rope with your hand it will not loosen
comin in hot baby!
😁
Walking i to the woods with 4 pounds of gear.
Walking into the woods with no back pack full of who knows what no bow nothing but climbing gear?
I think is possible. But in a real hunting situation not possible..
😂😂 I’ve walked in with ONLY my bow and the things I can put in my pockets for 25 years straight … averaging over 100 sits per season and hunting everywhere from swamps to huge national forests. The only difference between the first 20-something years snd the last couple is I used to walk in with a LW hand climber and 5-point safety harness; the last couple years it’s with the setup I show in this video.
hahahaha any crash landing you can walk away from is a good landing
I used to include a “blooper” type clip on some of my early videos ... I thought this was a perfect chance to do that again 😂 Pro tip #437: look down to see where you are if you’re coming in that hot 😁😁
@@StaggsintheWild lmfao
@@StaggsintheWild If you are coming down that fast you better watch out for your bow that is lying at the end of that rapelling rope for not to step onto it
@@v.n.6886 I generally swing my bow off to one side at the very end out of the way and then rappel down so I won’t land anywhere near it.
Your to far away in this video to see what your doing, just saying but thanks for trying to share....
There’s an entire playlist of one-sticking videos on this channel with multiple close-ups of every single thing you would need to see shown. Let me know what specifically you would like to see closer and I can tell you exactly which video and what time stamp it’s shown on.
Pole dancing for men , I feel dirty for watching lol
Appreciate the view 😂
Instead of a scaffold knot, use a buffalo hitch. Itll hold the world and no matter how much you load it its super easy to get off