Had mine for 2 months with the hydraulic brake, just got haptics for the brake and accelerator, I think they are perfect for me, an awesome pedal set and such an improvement over Fanatecs offerings 👍🏻 top notch
@@againstall4agsandtrans511 I would recommend spending a while experimenting with different combinations and setting it up to your own liking. Everyone’s preferences are gonna be different and there’s literally thousands of combinations. Personally I went with a red spring, 2 blue and 2 grey polymers. It gives me a long easy travel which makes accurate trail braking much easier 👍🏻 hope that helps mate.
Have these too. Absolutely lovely pedals. For the elastomer relaxation i changed to spring setup by using the optional elastomer and spring kit. I find spring feeling more accurate anyway and relaxation issues are solved too.
I run the Heusinkveld Ultimate+ and modded on the haptic motors. Use it on the brake and throttle, use simhub software to control the motors. Wheel lock on brake, and wheel slip on rears for throttle. So, I know when pressing on the brake if the wheels are locking up, and with the throttle I know if the wheels are spinning.
I was about to say the same. I agree with all that was said in the video except for a small addition regarding the haptic motors. Not only the brake pedal but also the throttle I find quite useful. In addition to the wheel slip, I add feedback on a high rpm to avoid reaching the limiter.
@@alexandersuntsov2271 I don't own any hardware yet but yeah these motors seems essential to me to understand what the car is doing, since I only have irl driving experience. But I assume that not every game supports this stuff, right? Do you have any idea how to find that out?
@@Pottmolchthey work with simhub, which is a third party application that basically extracts telemetry from the game and outputs it for dashboards, audio, vibration and other feedback. The site has a compatibles games list, and while the telemetry the games produce changes they are all fairly well supported, especially the bigger sims (think of assetto corsa, iracing, dirt 2.0 and RBR).
I’ve had these P1000s for 6 months now too just like you. I can say haptic motors on the brake and throttle are necessary for me, hydraulic brake, spring kit for the brake instead of elastomers for plenty of travel with still the amount of resistance you would feel in any type of car (there’s 5 different spring strengths, tons of amazing combos that can fit whatever you want it to feel like) and that’s it. Best purchase of my entire sim life besides my dd, also a Simagic alpha u. I absolutely love this brand. I’m so glad I stumbled on them a little over a year ago. Recommend literally everything they sell. They’re the best bang for your buck all around in the sim world
What's your opinion on their software package? Bugs, updates, support for multiple games and so on.. I have Fanatec wheel/base/pedal and absolutely hate their software solutions.
@@VictorRomanoI have them for 1 year now. absolutely no issues. I drive ac, raceroom and ams 2 and had never any problems. When you search help with profiles anything the discord is super helpful. The only thing that irritated me was that it did not immediately recognized my wheel but this was on me: reading the manual helps ;)
@@VictorRomano software is perfect now. Like Will said, used to be buggy and not so great all around when it was in beta mode. But ever since they’ve released the official stable version (about a year ago), I haven’t had a single issue. I also have the FX Pro wheel for my base along with the pedals and the software is amazing with that as they just keep adding irl dashboards to use on the wheel. Only thing I could gripe about software-wise is I wish the haptics had more options. It’s just TC and ABS response if you want to run them through simagic software. I run the pedals through simhub though, so that isn’t even really an issue for me. I get all the customization I want in sim hub. Overall the software is 9/10 now imo.
Getting a mega brake set was really important to me from my GT racing irl. I ended up getting the standard P1000 but with the hydraulic brake kit with haptic motor. Genuinely couldn’t be happier after 3/4 months of use.
Thanks for the review and channel. Small nit for the viewer, I'm sure Will understands the math: a 16 bits sensor means 65536 positions (at best, 2 to the power 16), so 16 times more than 12 bits / 4096 positions (at best). 4 more bits => 2 ^ 4 more resolution, i.e. 16. Short of a malfunction or misdesign that would waste bits or sensor range, even this 16x difference won't ever be noticeable. 4k steps on a few millimeters of travel is plenty fine grained. The one advantage of a good 16bits sensor is that it has a large margin to degrade before the reduced resolution or range would be perceptible.
Ive been using the stock P1000 3 pedal kit now since March, logging hundreds of hours. Pedals feel fine. Not noticing any relaxation yet. Consistent enough to be laying down times in cars in iRacing well inside the top 1% times. All the other stuff is great, it does add. But its not necessary unless you are trying to replicate real life feel.
Swap the elastomers for springs and the problem of hysteresis in the brake pedal input with load cell sensor completely goes away. The problem is the elastomers, especially the softer ones and made worse in the case of the P1000 with the design choice to use very many small/thin units of elastomers instead of larger/longer units of elastomers to make up a stack in the brake cylinder. What's happening is, as you apply a load/force to the brake pedal, the elastomers being a non-Newtonian material (which means it behaves as a spring and damper system like a cars suspension which means it will exhibit hysteresis due to the damping component of its behavior), generates an internal resistive force in response to your sudden application of force to compress them. This causes a time lag for the elastomers to reach their steady-state level of compression from the sudden compressive force you've applied. Now, here's the kicker. Your initial input when applying force/pressure to a load cell brake pedal is entirely force/pressure based, but the human body after attaining the desired force/pressure target will transition to a combined force/pressure and position targeting system. That is, you will try to maintain that pressure by tensing your muscles (in this case, you leg and foot) to hold it steady in place. The problem is the time lag of the compression of the elastomers that leads to the elastomers further compressing for some amount of time after your initial force/pressure input whilst you've now locked your foot in place. This means, you're actually starting to reduce your foot pressure on the brake pedal because of the elastomers time-delayed compression that is slowly moving the brake pedal face away from your foot, thereby reducing your braking pressure and so you see the brake force/pressure reading correctly reducing for a while to a lower steady-state reading after your initial force/pressure input. If you watch the brake pedal face travel at 0.25x speed from 21:08 you can clearly see this is happening. The pedal face actually creeps further inwards as if you've applied even more force to the brake pedal after your initial force input and yet the force reading is dropping whilst the pedal is creeping further inwards. If instead you use the hall sensor for brake reading, it masks the issue a lot because at the high force/pressure input levels, the amount of further inward movement of the brake pedal for a little while after initial force/pressure input, leads to only a small increase in the brake pedal angle. So where you may get a time-delayed drop off of 10% in the reading with the load cell as the elastomers compress to their steady-state, you may get a 1% increase in the brake pedal hall sensor reading after the hysteresis period.
I experienced this recently as well. I recently got a load cell kit for my original fanatec CSL elite v1 pedals. I found braking was very inconsistent because of this effect. I ended up using 4 stiffer elastomers and one of those blue springs from ebay and that pretty much solved all of my problems. Brakes are very consistent now and it's a very nice smooth progressive increase in force as you apply brakes. I'm happy for this comment and I'll definitely be getting my pedal set with the brake performance upgrade.
@@Silverturky nice. Have you noticed your (braking) performance improve with the load cell now vs non-load cell? If not still, it might be because you don't have enough brake pedal travel with the load cell. There is not only the potential problem of hysteresis when moving to load cell brake pedals (due to the use of too soft elastomers) but also the potential problem of too little brake travel over the load-cell force range used. This second potential issue has to do with the fact that the smaller the physical travel range of the load cell pedal, the more spikey your force inputs can become during quick changes of force input. It's like using an higher dpi on your mouse. It doesn't add hysteresis but it does add inaccuracy and skittishness to you inputs. So, a second potential pitfall of load cell pedals to watch out for and going to harder elastomers to solve/reduce the hysteresis problem, can however then introduce this second problem. But you said you added a spring to the pedal as well as swapping the elastomers to the stiffest set, so I imagine that should have rendered the second problem null and void in your case.
@@DrR1pper so first I had the issue with the 10 or so % bleed off because if the elastomers being too soft. Then I had the issue with too little pedal travel. Ultimately 2 medium and 2 hard elastomers with the blue spring in between solved all of the issues. I get 0 bleed now as the elastomers I use are stiff enough not to need to settle and the spring provides the pedal travel I need. When I press the brake the pedal travel and force progression are very natural feeling I know exactly how much pressure to apply and how far my foot has to travel in order to apply Max brake force and not lock the tires. And this is with about 60% brake force set in the fanatec driver. Before load cell I would either not brake enough or constantly lock up in LMU now I nail it every time.
One benefit I found to the hydraulic brake was that I could use Elastomers and get that "real" feeling without having them relax under foot. Also the ease of changing out elastomer stacks mean I actually change it between different cars. I use completely different elastomers for mx5, Oval Stock Cars, GTE, Prototypes and Formula Cars which really gives you a feeling of immersion and of each category feeling more different. I also really like having a haptic motor on the clutch pedal along with a really nice simhub app that lets you set a bite point feeling per car. definitely more an immersion thing but certainly helps me with standing starts if I am not using dual clutch (for example in older cars that don't have them or formulas where they are banned IRL). I am definitely more an immersion focussed racer than pure esports pace though.
@@Stiffler_90 I basically just use the recommended settings found on the simagic "Product Tutorial" page on the website. I personally don't use the springs as they are very easy to get stuck in the brake cylinder and make quick swapping quite hard but there is also a variety of options using them listed alongside the elastomer combinations in the "P-ORP(H) Quick Guide" found on the website. for LMP2/3/GTP I use 5 blue,2 red and 2 gold restrictors. For GTE/GT3 I use 4 blue and 5 red. for stuff like the mx5 and gr86 I would use a mixture of black and grey elastomers and sometimes gold spacers. .
@@craigcalladine851doesn’t that get a bit tiring swapping out all the time? Also, shouldn’t there be an ideal setup of the brake pedal that works great/optimally for any car due to muscle memory and such?
I got the 3 pedal set with hydraulic brake and one haptic for ABS. I came from Asetek Invicta pedals (bought them on pre-order years ago before we had so many options). I prefer these over the Invicta set all day long. After using the short 20-30 mm movement on the Invicta set for so long, I'm glad I finally made the move to a pedal that moves to around 50-60 mm ( don't have the exact measurement). One thing I've noticed with the extra travel is that it makes the weight far easier to push. I went from 80kg on the Invicta and the short throw of the pedal made me feel like I was pushing myself through the back of the seat. I set these up with 80kg and it feels nothing like the Invictas. I actually thought the load sensor was broken because it feels like maybe 40kg compared to the Invicta pedals. Having the extra pedal movement really eases the pressure sensation. Anyway, I love these pedals! Definitely recommend them.
For anyone who is using a wheelstand or a less rigid rig. I found that the default brake force required was too high as when I was using full pressure my chair was trying to lift.( I use a GT omega Apex with the chair link). However if you have the brake elastomer kit I found that using 2 70R, 3 80R, 3 80P elastomers provided a really nice two stage feel to the brake that will always talks about in his review, while not requiring a ton of force. Works great for my Wheel-stand setup. Also something to note if anyone else is also using the GT omega Apex wheelstand with these. The pedal angle can be a little uncomfortable due to the lack of adjustment of the wheel plate on that particular wheelstand. I ended up un-attaching the pedal plate from the height adjustment so that the pedal plate could sit as low as possible and that was much more comfortable for someone like me who is 6’3. Overall great pedals and Great review Will!
I also only bought the 2 pedal set with the elastomer kit which was $505 total from Sim-Motion US. Best pedal set I’ve owned. They have much more pedal adjustments and personally have the best breaks feel I’ve ever had. (I’ve had CSL Elite v2s, CSL LC and also had Simjack Pros.) Extremely excited to buy the haptic kit for the brake in the future.
Amazing pedal set. I have a 2 pedal set, and I couldn't be happier with them. The only complaint I have about the petals they addressed in their second batch. Which was my loadcell brake pedal squeaked after a couple of months. It wasn't a big deal, Just annoying and had to wipe the brake shaft before I raced. I emailed them after I heard they were providing greece with their new batch to see how much it would be. And they sent It out for free. And if you do a lot of gt3 racing I would recommend getting 2 haptic motors. Having traction control on the accelerator has been just as helpful as ABS on the break. I found my forever pedals. And excellent first class review as always boosted media.👏
I also got the inverted kit and that was a game changer. I 3d printed a throttle range limiter to improve heel and toe but other than that they are so awesome out of the box
A review on the fantastic SRP pedals would also be nice so as to make this company aware. In any case, congratulations for the fantastic work you do. Greetings from Italy 😊
i want to add about the hydraulic brake when using the inverted kit, just always get the inverted hydraulic brake as you can use it for the base pedal AND inverted pedals as the resevoir is able to rotate on its axis
i got them in formula version (i only need clutch on my wheel). Accesories i would recommend are only 1 haptic (brake) and elastometer/spring upgrade kit for the brake. Hydraulic kit is just a feature since u still use loadcell sensor with it. If u want real hydraulic pedals just buy asetek ones which use hydraulic preassure sensor.
I'm currently looking upgrade my csl loadcell pedals ( not the V2 pedals) and been looking at these would you recommend them, can the clutch be removed and the brake put in it's place
I love the haptic motor on my brake. I am just running 1 on my g29 brake pedal until I have the funds to upgrade my pedals (I 3d printed an adapter to mount it), but something to note that I did not realize at first is that if you buy the motor for pedals other than the P1000 then you also need to buy the controller board as well The controller is built into the base of the P1000 pedals.
That's an awesome idea. I didn't know we could set it to stuff like that. Thought we were limited to ABS, traction control and something else I can't remember off the top of my head.
I know a way to solve the brake problem but it's at a little sacrifice depending on what your after. So basically the reason why the brakes go down like that even though your applying constant pressure is because the elastimas are relaxing. If you replace the elastimas with a spring, the brakes will stay consistently in that position without going down. No elastimas means you'll lose the break pad feeling but you'll have Load Cell brakes that actually work and stays in position with your foot. This is problem currently with every pedal set that use elastimas. Once the elastimas start to lose their ridgitiy they have that affect as seen in the video. Unfortunately untill companies find a new material or a way to combat this im afraid they all suffer the same fate unless you use spring.
I have combined a custom spring with only two elastomers. I believe I used red or grey (the harder ones). That matches the feel of my race spec Miata but is nowhere near as stiff as a GT3 break.
I have this set. As for the driving with socks what I did was take one of the standard one to my local hardware store and just bought longer ones. Only a few mm, and fixed the issue. Also definitely get the break elastomer kit. Really helps adjusting depending on formula and GT cars. I do have the hydraulic on my break and it does make it 1000 times easier to adjust the pedal feel since it has a separate core that is easily accessible. Hope this helps. But it’s super modular and just flat out good product.
I love my p1000 I bought the long throttle plate and the extra spring pack but othe than that they are stock Absolutely love the quality and performance you get for the cost
Great review as always! I'd be very happy if you could review some "aliexpress" pedals, like the SIMJACK or SIMSONN Pro. There aren't really reviews from channels with the audience you have here and I'm really interested in your opinion. By the looks they are punching above their weight class. It's no secret, I'm interested in getting a set of SIMSONN Pro's with the Simagic haptic motors.
I'm only a 2-2.5K IR driver, so take that as you will. I got the simjack pros with elastomers upgrade. I've driven in 4 different rigs with all of them having high-end pedals. Simjacks must be good because I can go right into a high-end pedal and use the same muscle memory and it be on the money just like my cheaper heusinkveld clone. So what I think is, if I can push and get 80% pressure on iracing with a cheap set and do the exact same push and get 80% on a high end...iracing isnt going to know the difference. To the same point he has using a hall effect sensor. If you can use muscle memory and push 80% on a hall effect sensor that's all iracing cares about. I guess It just sounds cool to say "I have loadcell pedals."
I found that the Hydraulic brake improves the drop off by about 3-4% (just elastomers). Then when using the hydraulic brake with a spring and elastomer combo the drop off is at its lowest. I like running mine with the blue elastomers and a medium spring (red). I do agree also at my skill level the difference is almost non existent but I do think that your top drivers will notice the drop off especially on the non hydraulic brake 🤷🏼♂️ Great video as always 🙌🏻
i actually swapped out for the spring with 3d printed washers alternative for the brake pedal - then switched back to the elastomers. I dunno I don't have an issue with the elastomers, they work just fine once you get used to them. I want to get the haptics for the throttle and brake.
I have had these for 6+months now, and like them, while I can see the fall off in the brake register you mention if I use the graph in the software and keep a constant position. However this if you think about it's because you are not applying a consistent pressure but trying to keep a constant position. If you keep 60kg on the pedal the the elastomer can't make 5kg dissappear the still has only one place to go the load cell. That is why in real conditions as long as you keep a constant pressure you won't be aware of it. The compression does affect preloaded though and I suggest before setting preload press the brake hard. Also grease the ball on the load cell to brake housing joint I found this made the brake a lot smoother. I also lightly greased the innards as well which also made it a bit smoother. My biggest gripe is they are too upright and this is not adjustable, the adjustment they have only tilts the face it doesn't really move the face back, I like the accelerator tilted back slightly. I achieved that by inserting a 2mm plastic spacer between the pedal and return stop. I find the curved face not very comfortable but have got used to it but will probably have some made which are flat and don't have the huge holes in the middle. My accelerator spring rubbing the inside of the tube and makes a rubbing sound not loud but it shouldn't do it. The clutch bite point for me is in the wrong place it's right at the end of travel when it should be nearer the centre of travel. I came from the fanatec csl pedals which for me are fantastic vfm, the simagic pedals are better but if you get on with the csl's I would stick with them unless you are heavily in to sim racing and have an ally profile type rig and a dd wheel etc the csl's for me were more than acceptable. I certainly didn't get any faster changing. I did kill the rubbers on the csl though through using the brake at 100% and changed to springs which although were less progressive had a cleaner feel and I got on with them quite well. Will try the upgrade kit for the simagic's which has more elastomers and springs. I will also add the haptic feedback.
I’m running their haptics on the accelerator and brake on my Fanatec V3’s and they are awesome through sim hub. I think it was about $150 US dollars for everything needed but I created the mounting solution. I don’t particularly care for their software for the haptics because how limited it is compared with sim hub. If anyone is curious about these for mainly the haptics they can most likely be adapted to your current pedals.
Looking forward to your video on the haptics specifically, using them on my he ultimates brake and throttle. Can say they are excellent once setup correctly and the throttle is absolutely worth it even in iracing they can give you the feel of wheel slip which has really helped catching slides on oversteer. Once iracing does proper traction loss telemetry I assume it will only be better, other sims already include it so if you drive multiple they are more than worth it.
Will, if you got the early version of these pedals, they've changed the circuit board on the brakes and it will fix that drop off problem with your brake. Just contact simagic and they'll hook you up
i got them for over 2 months now and absoluetly love them. The only problem i got was the pedals were too vertikal, straight. Have to tilt them little bit to the back abd lower the pedalplates. Now they are perfect.
i went with the triple pedal set, added 2 haptics, replaced the elastomers in the brake with springs from the optional set, and replaced the throttle spring with a stiffer one and reduced the travel its just perfect now
got P1000 for maybe 2 weeks, but bought thet with extra elastomers and springs mod, first I used basic elastomers and ware way better then I thought, but I decided to see how pure spring mode will work (I used GT3 style mode), wow its way better, no relaksation, stifnes of brake is better but pedal travel is same and trail braking is a pure joy, I thought that I cant trail braking but it was just my V3, I improved my lap time on Valencia almoust 1 sec just becouse trail barking started to be so easy. I think I'll change my ecosystem for Simagic, if eny one of you have any doubts please get rid of it, its night and day compare to my previous setup. See you on track :)
I'm now running this combination: base set + spring kit + haptic motor on brake and throttle. I bought the hydraulic upgrades for both brake and throttle, but it seems like I got a defective unit for the brake hydraulic upgrade, since it started leaking after a few weeks. I did get a free replacement from Simagic, though I've decided to run it without the hydraulics. There are some noticeable differences in feel, but after a few days of driving I got used to it. One other thing I hope they would change is the cylinder for the springs/elastomers on hydraulic brake upgrade. It is really hard to change out new springs since there is no center post going through it, making it super hard to align everything correctly since the cylinder is not pointing straight up, I broke two plastic washers just because it wasn't aligned correctly. And it is really hard to know how far to screw in the cap, as there is no hard stop on it, so it is possible to screw in too much such that you start compressing the springs.
Just upgraded my Moza rig with Simagic, expected delivery in the next days. Joined the Simagic family! I'll miss Moza, it was my first direct drive wheel and ecosystem, but I feel like they're lagging behind a little bit in certain areas.
Had mine a few months. Do like them. Have the hydraulic brake add-on. Worth pointing out that the inverted hydraulic brake fits the standard pedals.(Just need to make sure the reservoir is pointing up). So you could get this if you want to keep your options open about getting the inverted kit later
Got mine a week ago, inverted hydraulic brake, and p-hpr on the brake and throttle, i recently upgraded to dd simagic mini from thrustmaster tgt2, and this completely blow my mind how good dd base, anyways for some time I still using my thrustmaster tlcm pedals, now I got p1000i and my on ea wrc rally time improved 15-20 seconds, honestly I cannot believe it, soon upgrading hand break and simagic shifter, only one I can recommend if you realy like sim racing, don't waist your money for thrustmaster, because later or sooner you want to upgrade on something very high quality, if you casual sim racing and want have some fun, buy 2nd hand Logitech G29 and enjoy, hope it helps for someone to decide which way to go.
I am in the market for new pedals that wont break the bank and I thought the P1000 looked great. But I guess I am one of those who think the load cell issue is a deal breaker. Im sorry but if I am paying out this kind of money I expect no reduction in braking whether I can feel it or not. Just my opinion. If i have to use angle braking with this set why not just stay with my G27 pedals? Someone down below mentioned that the issue may have been fixed can anyone confirm that? As always great review, really appreciate the depth and honest opinions
I don't know about almost. I think that word probably could have been omitted 😂. They seem/sound awesome. Fair enough the simucube active pedals can't be matched. But for most people, these pedals are the epitome
I think they gonna be the budget endgame the moment they gonna offer a set of thicker elastomers to mitigate the relaxing effect, which I do notice when braking. Everything else though is spot on, even in a 100kg loadcell that is only 100 CAD cheaper than a set or VNM V1s. I have the P1000s and I love them, but I can see why one would opt for the VNMs
@@limpetarch98k im probably gonna get csl elite v2s and mod the throttle with a damper kit. I think thats gonna be the best bang for buck and ive already got the damper and a 3D printer
I've owned the p1000-s for 9 months now. For me elastomers just could not work. These elastomers do tend to die, 1 is kinda machined to bits every 1-2 months and then you have to swap the set. Regular WD40-ing and making sure you did not overtighten the whole is necessary, but the cap gets a bit loose if you are using a somewhat stern setup, making the braking a bit different and inconsistent. I tried so many combination, soft on one end, harders on the other, swap them, move some softers in between the harder ones (the most amount of unwanted release) and every single combination their pamphlet offered. Then I got the upgrade set with the springs, and it solved about 90% of the issues. Some people/products can make elastomers work, but I don1t think they are the way to go really. The springs I think are vastly superior experience whether or not you are using loadcell or hydraulic. For me, the haptics are something I refuse to drive without, those are the best help for my current skill level.
@@gergelykoszegi9541 Thanks for the info. Well I did that after 3-4 elastomers died (maybe half a year) already and after using wd40, it did not seem to affect the speed they got machined/died, but maybe it didnt help either. Also, I have both kind of wd40 and have no idea which one I used. (they are next to each other on the shelf)
Hi Will, great review mate! I would really love to see a review to the Simgrade VX Pro, i own these pedals they work in a very interesting mechanical way with bearings. I would love to hear your opinion on these pedals!
Im keeping road bumps and asphalt slight feel and rpm and shifts in the haptics beside other usual effects on all pedals, you feel the road all the way, I oilded the elastormers with some synthetic high quality oil so they don't get sticky and reduce the speed of lifting the brake and making them more consistent although try at your own risk
Thnx for this review! I was looking forward to this, it made my search for new pedals a bit easier. Can you please also review the SIMTRECS PRO PEDAL GT? This thing sounds and looks amazing. Is reviewed by others but i value you're opinion and expertise Boosted!!!
Having run both these pedals the simtrecs to me still feel under foot a lot better. They just feel more premium like you are using an $ high end pedal set. The new simtrecs now comes with a haptic motor built into the brake.
Are you planning to review the Simgrade VX-Pro? It looks like a different enough pedal that it would be interesting to compare to the traditional elastomer base pedals.
Great stuff Will!!!🤤 Now you told us what upgrades you would get for performance, but what upgrades would you recommend for me where immersion is my priority? Everything?😂
P1000 here did the hydraulic upgrade for throttle wasn't worth it. The brake performance kit was a game changer. The recommendations that simagic put out are very good. Hapetic is something I have considered. Had rumblers on my old bj pedals and wasn't overly impressed.
Pedals looking as good deal for that price! I went from Asetek Invicta to Simucube AP and never missed that hydraulic efect so my chice will be same :)
love mine i just inverted them and realized they get quite long once adjusted... would love to have that hydraulic throttle however with some heavy grease in the cylinder i got mine feeling quite nice
I got the inverted set with the hydraulic brake and 2 shakers, one for brake and the other for accelerator. I highly recommend the hydraulic brake. Just feels amazing and so precise. Best set of pedals I've ever had. My lap times have definitely improved since owning them. Which surprised me, becuase i thought i had reached my natural limit. But they have unlocked more from me now. I mostly play acc, so feeling the abs and tc kick in is a real treat. Its even taught me to threshold brake just before the abs kicks in to get maximum braking efficiency. And its great for feeling when the rear tyres are spinning and the tc kicks in. You can be more progressive with your inputs with the info you get to your senses that way. Just wish there was a setting in the app where you could set it to like a smart profile where it knows when its in a car that has abs and/or tc and will rumble when it triggers them and then if there is no abs or tc in the car, it would rumble when the tyres lock up or the rear loses traction. Having to manually switch the setting can get tedius.
I sold all my Fanatec gear to go all in on Simagic: Alpha + FX Pro Wheel + P1000 Dual with Both Haptics and Light Bar Kit bc why not. My minor gripe with pedals compared to CSL Elite V2 is slippery bottom where my heel rest and pedal face which I can’t run bare foot like on the V2 which had great grip. Also slippery with socks so I find myself wearing barefoot shoes when racing which give me better feel.
I don't know for sure, but I bet you can find some pedal pads that will fit these. I don't have my 1000 yet, but if you measure the plates and then search for pads in that size, you may be able to find something that works. Would probably cost about $20-$30 to add that onto each pedal if you find something that works.
I had the Fanatec CSL elite v2 pedals. They were good but the loadcell broke and it took fanatec a good 2 months to get me a replacement loadcell. By which time I had purchased a set of these. The difference in quality is astronomical. The fanatecs feel like a toy in comparison and lack any adjustability other than the brake pedal which cannot be adjusted nearly as finitely as these. Also a point of note is that I had exactly the same elastomer relaxation issue with the fanatecs as with these. About the same ~10% reduction in measured force over a couple seconds. The fanatecs just didn’t have an angle sensor to back them up. In Canada after import fees and taxes the fanatecs came to $500 Canadian dollars and these simagic pedals were $800. More than worth the extra cash to me personally.
I just bought the Simagic spring kit to test with my Fanatec CSL Elite V2. Basic dimensions seem compatible so I plan to test and find a coil spring combo at a similar force to the default blue coil + 3x 65 elastomer. Hoping to have a similar basic feel while ditching the relaxation issue.
@@Chader9 I actually purchased some die springs from a Chinese supplier to use with my V2s and it did eliminate the relaxation problem. I’ve got the brake tuning kit coming for my p1000s hopefully using springs should eliminate the problem with these as well!
Love my p1000s, came from fanatec which was complete trash compared to these. I got the elastomer kit and still using the out of box setup after 4 or 5 months
Hey guys, been eagerly waiting for this review since I heard that it was in the works (possibly from you guys on reddit?). Anyway, I was wondering if now that you have hands on the 1000, you plan to review the 2000s and/or compare them? The differences are fairly subtle and I'm not certain the value is there, but I'm still very curious. Awesome video as always, thanks for the effort you put in!
Yeah well, that's out of my pay scale but I was wondering, where's the Logitech G Pro Wheel teardown "promised" after you got 2000 likes (which I believe you got fairly quickly? Keep up the vids mate.
Great review! Similar spec to what’s in my simmagic cart now except I was going to opt for inverted to be closer to irl layout (and to keep the electronics off the floor). Will wait for your haptic review but you’re so far implying the haptics have no function in non-abs and non-tc cars? So just so I’m clear: I won’t feel lockup or wheelspin in the iracing rain in an f1600 via haptics?
I’ve been using p1000s for about 6 months as well and largely agree, outside of haptics most every other option isn’t necessary, especially the hydraulic throttle, i absolutely hated that. The new spring kit is also worth looking at as well. For the haptics, simhub brings a ton more function and I feel makes haptics on the throttle really worth it to me. I’d also add the throttle spring if you want to stiffen it up can use the clutch spring.
Oh wow I hit refresh at a great time. I've had these for a while now and love them. Only issue I've had is there is one screw that always likes to come loose. Excited to see what you have to say about them! EDIT: I personally only bought the main pedal and a single motor for ABS feedback on the brake. It's been an excellent investment in my sim racing hobby.
I found that even with all black elastometers it was still very stiff. Guess it's just something I'll have to get use to. Very nice over my g29 logi pedals. But I'm finding it hard to get use to these new ones.
Ditto. Bummed he didn't test with the steel spring option to show if it does/does not fix the issue. Basic engineering and feedback related to other steel brake pedals says it will fix it. But it sure would have been nice to see the A/B test right there. Missed opportunity.
@lukebennellick4315 thanks for confirming. As it happens, I got that spring kit to use on my Fanatec CSL Elite V2. Nice kit with so many options and will be happy to have consistent feel & function.
If someone would tell me that these are Fanatec Clubsport V4 pedals I would believe it immediately. Time for Fanatec to copy and improve these pedals and take them in production. I consider to get one of these haptic reactors for the brake pedal of my Sim Lab XP1 pedals, do these haptic reactirs also come with other colors besides red, I’m allergic to red and does not match with my pedals … can paint the red black of course. Would like to see a revisit of the Sim Lab pedals because they solved the software issues in the meantime and I am very happy with the XP1 pedals (coming from Fanatec V3 with BPK).
Waiting for the Moza mBooster reviews. Looking to get an R12 base and want to see if I keep old Fanatec CS2 pedals or upgrade without paying two lots of shipping.
I’ve got P2000s with haptics. I’ve had 2 x hydraulic leaks. Supplier has been excellent and replaced the brake twice. I was told the earlier versions had potential leaks in fluid canister. Haven’t had issue since.
I was wondering if real life racing drivers, who are also sim racers (Verstappen, Norris, Daniel Morad, James Baldwin, et cetera), use haptic reactors or not and what is their opinion about them? I always learned that visual cues are the most important ones and that the other cues are always later or too late. Verstappen is also alien fast on controller, so maybe all our ffb, haptic and other stuff are only pure for immersion? Which I do like btw because you want to have the feeling to be in a real car as much as possible.
@@Remzly it adds to immersion and to the learning process but aliens can set alien lap times based on visual cues only. Stuff to read: Perfect Control: A Driver's Step-By-Step Guide to Advanced Car Control Through the Physics of Racing
I'm running the P1000 with 2 haptics, and absolutely love them. I'd been wondering whether the hydraulic upgrades would be worth it or not so really useful to hear your opinions on that. It was interesting to hear you talking about the Fanatec Elite v2's, as these were the pedals I upgraded from and I have to say the difference in braking feel was night and day, I have so much more control using the P1000's. I'm certainly not anywhere near being a top level driver so there are definitely skill issues here but the upgrade from the Elite v2's was absolutely worth the upgrade for me.
You recommend Heusinkveld Ultimate+ in the end of the review for high end. Can you explain a bit why, cause I'm owning them right now and never get satisfied of the feeling. I was looking to swap to other brand due to that
I've been looking at these pedals for a while but I still haven't seen a video addressing my biggest concern and that is the fact that the pedals seem so freakin high... There's only 1 adjustment I can see and that's the pedal plate. Can someone share their experiences with these pedals as far as how tall they are?
I dont know if its because I run the Simagic GT1D Pro, which is a fairly large wheel, or because Im tall at 6’2 and a half (meaning I have long legs). But yeah I had to play around with the rig’s position so that my legs dont bump the flat bottom of my wheel. If I was you, I would probably buy a shaft extension.
@@limpetarch98k that's not I mean, not at all. What I mean is that the pedal faces seen to be sitting REALLY high on the pedal shaft.. I wear a size 11 shoe, but it still seems like I'd be pushing the pedal in with my tippie toes.. Is that not the case?
I disagree on the usefulness of the throttle haptics, with brake and throttle, you can have the both represent the front left and front right wheels with lock and slip effects, also rumble strip effects are quite immersive. Def worth getting both imo, clutch haptics is completely useless though, btw you can build your own kit for less than half the cost too, plus SimHub is a much better effects control software
Looking to Upgrade from the Moza SRP Lite, I am still hesitating to get the Hydraulic Brake mod with it out of the box, or should I just get the standard version & then Upgrade to the hydraulic mod later on. What I am looking for is basically brake & throttle precision, I do more Oval Racing with aim to eNascar with the Road to Pro in iRacing & some drifting thoo.
So does their inverted version simply have a body that allows you to mount on a non-inverted rig plate? Pricing out a TrakRacer and considering the convertible pedal plate to run racing pedals inverted, with flight rudders eventually mounted to the top. Considering the P1000 as an upgrade to my CSL pedals, but may start standard before swapping to inverted.
Question. Does the pedal connects directly to PC on USB or I need a simagic base for it? I have a T300RS GT and would upgrade the pedals only initially, but I don't want to buy an accessory simply to connect the pedals to PC....
What's with the Noise of the clutch, is it a loude metal on metal clack like theire old one or is it dampend like the endstops on the other pedals? And please go into detail regarding vibration noise in your haptics video!
So I disagree that the hydraulic brake is not needed- and you explained why. The standard brake relaxes and does not stay at a steady pressure, which is an issue that is addressed by hydraulic brake. I have much better fine control of braking and similar feel to my car with the hydraulic brake. I agree that you only need the haptic motor for the brake. Skip all the other upgrades as you said.
Since the P-HYS also uses the same elastomers inside the black barrel, how does it not suffer from the same compression issue as the standard brake cylinder? From what I see, the hydraulic brake converts the pedal travel into hydraulic compression that the pushes a actuator in the black section to compress the elastomer stack. Considering the hydraulic action is just a different "actuator", it sure seems likely that the elastomers will have the same compression creep and force decrease.
I’ve been using the P1000 for about 8 months now. I got the haptic motor for the brake, the hydraulic brake and hydraulic throttle. The haptic motor is a must if you drive cars with ABS… it’s literally a competitive advantage over someone who doesn’t have it. The hydraulic throttle is a bit useless… I like that I can adjust the stiffness on the fly but I don’t think it’s worth the price. I disagree with the take that the hydraulic brake is not worth it. Sure, it won’t make you faster, but it feels way more natural. Also, the problem with the elastomers relaxing resulting in a gradual fall in brake force is not an issue with the hydraulic brake. Overall, I would recommend to start out with just adding the haptic motor to the brake, see how you like the feel of the brake. And then upgrade to the hydraulic brake if you don’t like it. Don’t bother with the hydraulic throttle.
Since the P-HYS also uses the same elastomers inside the black barrel, how does it not suffer from the same compression issue as the standard brake cylinder? From what I see, the hydraulic brake converts the pedal travel into hydraulic compression that the pushes a actuator in the black section to compress the elastomer stack. Considering the hydraulic action is just a different "actuator", it sure seems likely that the elastomers will have the same compression creep and force decrease.
@@Chader9 I have a theory. Provided the hydraulic unit adds a degree of damping to the brake pedal, then it’s the same reason they use dampers on Husinkveld Ultimate’s, same for Simtrecs. The damper effect slows down the ramp up in pressure being applied by the driver, the higher that change in pressure is. This then essentially masks the relaxation issue of the elastomers by making the drivers pressure input seem more gradual than it really was onto the brake pedal face, from the perspective of the elastomers.
I'm using P1000iRs Inverted Pedals. about the elastomer issue,combine the springs with the elastomer and that lost of LC pressure is gone. Or just use the springs itself. Job done
Had mine for 2 months with the hydraulic brake, just got haptics for the brake and accelerator, I think they are perfect for me, an awesome pedal set and such an improvement over Fanatecs offerings 👍🏻 top notch
Same here. They are perfect. What type of elastomers do you use in your hydrolic brakes
@@againstall4agsandtrans511 I would recommend spending a while experimenting with different combinations and setting it up to your own liking. Everyone’s preferences are gonna be different and there’s literally thousands of combinations.
Personally I went with a red spring, 2 blue and 2 grey polymers. It gives me a long easy travel which makes accurate trail braking much easier 👍🏻 hope that helps mate.
@@tonyf9076 thanks mate I'll give that a try 👍🏻
Yea love mine I have inverted set they feel pretty damn good to me fr and way more real then none inverted
Have these too. Absolutely lovely pedals.
For the elastomer relaxation i changed to spring setup by using the optional elastomer and spring kit.
I find spring feeling more accurate anyway and relaxation issues are solved too.
I run the Heusinkveld Ultimate+ and modded on the haptic motors.
Use it on the brake and throttle, use simhub software to control the motors. Wheel lock on brake, and wheel slip on rears for throttle. So, I know when pressing on the brake if the wheels are locking up, and with the throttle I know if the wheels are spinning.
Where did you get the haptic motors for the pedals? i have the same
I was about to say the same. I agree with all that was said in the video except for a small addition regarding the haptic motors. Not only the brake pedal but also the throttle I find quite useful. In addition to the wheel slip, I add feedback on a high rpm to avoid reaching the limiter.
@@alexandersuntsov2271 I don't own any hardware yet but yeah these motors seems essential to me to understand what the car is doing, since I only have irl driving experience. But I assume that not every game supports this stuff, right? Do you have any idea how to find that out?
@@Pottmolchthey work with simhub, which is a third party application that basically extracts telemetry from the game and outputs it for dashboards, audio, vibration and other feedback. The site has a compatibles games list, and while the telemetry the games produce changes they are all fairly well supported, especially the bigger sims (think of assetto corsa, iracing, dirt 2.0 and RBR).
im in between getting those or the p1000s with mods.
I got the P2000 with the haptic motors. Amazing pedals at a good price. Simagic's ecosystem is probably the best value in the high-end space.
I’ve had these P1000s for 6 months now too just like you. I can say haptic motors on the brake and throttle are necessary for me, hydraulic brake, spring kit for the brake instead of elastomers for plenty of travel with still the amount of resistance you would feel in any type of car (there’s 5 different spring strengths, tons of amazing combos that can fit whatever you want it to feel like) and that’s it. Best purchase of my entire sim life besides my dd, also a Simagic alpha u. I absolutely love this brand. I’m so glad I stumbled on them a little over a year ago. Recommend literally everything they sell. They’re the best bang for your buck all around in the sim world
What's your opinion on their software package? Bugs, updates, support for multiple games and so on..
I have Fanatec wheel/base/pedal and absolutely hate their software solutions.
@@VictorRomanoI have them for 1 year now. absolutely no issues. I drive ac, raceroom and ams 2 and had never any problems. When you search help with profiles anything the discord is super helpful. The only thing that irritated me was that it did not immediately recognized my wheel but this was on me: reading the manual helps ;)
@@VictorRomano software is perfect now. Like Will said, used to be buggy and not so great all around when it was in beta mode. But ever since they’ve released the official stable version (about a year ago), I haven’t had a single issue. I also have the FX Pro wheel for my base along with the pedals and the software is amazing with that as they just keep adding irl dashboards to use on the wheel.
Only thing I could gripe about software-wise is I wish the haptics had more options. It’s just TC and ABS response if you want to run them through simagic software. I run the pedals through simhub though, so that isn’t even really an issue for me. I get all the customization I want in sim hub.
Overall the software is 9/10 now imo.
Planing to by this set but still hesitating on hydraulic upgrade. Does it worth it for that money?
Hey man, did you connect the pedal usb cable to wheelbase or directly to pc?
Getting a mega brake set was really important to me from my GT racing irl. I ended up getting the standard P1000 but with the hydraulic brake kit with haptic motor. Genuinely couldn’t be happier after 3/4 months of use.
Thanks for the review and channel.
Small nit for the viewer, I'm sure Will understands the math: a 16 bits sensor means 65536 positions (at best, 2 to the power 16), so 16 times more than 12 bits / 4096 positions (at best). 4 more bits => 2 ^ 4 more resolution, i.e. 16. Short of a malfunction or misdesign that would waste bits or sensor range, even this 16x difference won't ever be noticeable. 4k steps on a few millimeters of travel is plenty fine grained. The one advantage of a good 16bits sensor is that it has a large margin to degrade before the reduced resolution or range would be perceptible.
Ive been using the stock P1000 3 pedal kit now since March, logging hundreds of hours.
Pedals feel fine. Not noticing any relaxation yet. Consistent enough to be laying down times in cars in iRacing well inside the top 1% times.
All the other stuff is great, it does add. But its not necessary unless you are trying to replicate real life feel.
Swap the elastomers for springs and the problem of hysteresis in the brake pedal input with load cell sensor completely goes away. The problem is the elastomers, especially the softer ones and made worse in the case of the P1000 with the design choice to use very many small/thin units of elastomers instead of larger/longer units of elastomers to make up a stack in the brake cylinder. What's happening is, as you apply a load/force to the brake pedal, the elastomers being a non-Newtonian material (which means it behaves as a spring and damper system like a cars suspension which means it will exhibit hysteresis due to the damping component of its behavior), generates an internal resistive force in response to your sudden application of force to compress them. This causes a time lag for the elastomers to reach their steady-state level of compression from the sudden compressive force you've applied. Now, here's the kicker. Your initial input when applying force/pressure to a load cell brake pedal is entirely force/pressure based, but the human body after attaining the desired force/pressure target will transition to a combined force/pressure and position targeting system. That is, you will try to maintain that pressure by tensing your muscles (in this case, you leg and foot) to hold it steady in place. The problem is the time lag of the compression of the elastomers that leads to the elastomers further compressing for some amount of time after your initial force/pressure input whilst you've now locked your foot in place. This means, you're actually starting to reduce your foot pressure on the brake pedal because of the elastomers time-delayed compression that is slowly moving the brake pedal face away from your foot, thereby reducing your braking pressure and so you see the brake force/pressure reading correctly reducing for a while to a lower steady-state reading after your initial force/pressure input. If you watch the brake pedal face travel at 0.25x speed from 21:08 you can clearly see this is happening. The pedal face actually creeps further inwards as if you've applied even more force to the brake pedal after your initial force input and yet the force reading is dropping whilst the pedal is creeping further inwards. If instead you use the hall sensor for brake reading, it masks the issue a lot because at the high force/pressure input levels, the amount of further inward movement of the brake pedal for a little while after initial force/pressure input, leads to only a small increase in the brake pedal angle. So where you may get a time-delayed drop off of 10% in the reading with the load cell as the elastomers compress to their steady-state, you may get a 1% increase in the brake pedal hall sensor reading after the hysteresis period.
I experienced this recently as well. I recently got a load cell kit for my original fanatec CSL elite v1 pedals. I found braking was very inconsistent because of this effect. I ended up using 4 stiffer elastomers and one of those blue springs from ebay and that pretty much solved all of my problems. Brakes are very consistent now and it's a very nice smooth progressive increase in force as you apply brakes. I'm happy for this comment and I'll definitely be getting my pedal set with the brake performance upgrade.
@@Silverturky nice. Have you noticed your (braking) performance improve with the load cell now vs non-load cell? If not still, it might be because you don't have enough brake pedal travel with the load cell. There is not only the potential problem of hysteresis when moving to load cell brake pedals (due to the use of too soft elastomers) but also the potential problem of too little brake travel over the load-cell force range used. This second potential issue has to do with the fact that the smaller the physical travel range of the load cell pedal, the more spikey your force inputs can become during quick changes of force input. It's like using an higher dpi on your mouse. It doesn't add hysteresis but it does add inaccuracy and skittishness to you inputs. So, a second potential pitfall of load cell pedals to watch out for and going to harder elastomers to solve/reduce the hysteresis problem, can however then introduce this second problem. But you said you added a spring to the pedal as well as swapping the elastomers to the stiffest set, so I imagine that should have rendered the second problem null and void in your case.
@@DrR1pper so first I had the issue with the 10 or so % bleed off because if the elastomers being too soft. Then I had the issue with too little pedal travel. Ultimately 2 medium and 2 hard elastomers with the blue spring in between solved all of the issues. I get 0 bleed now as the elastomers I use are stiff enough not to need to settle and the spring provides the pedal travel I need. When I press the brake the pedal travel and force progression are very natural feeling I know exactly how much pressure to apply and how far my foot has to travel in order to apply Max brake force and not lock the tires. And this is with about 60% brake force set in the fanatec driver. Before load cell I would either not brake enough or constantly lock up in LMU now I nail it every time.
@@Silverturky nice! Happy racing! :P
Are you using the p1000 with the optional springs and can confirm this solved this issue of the brake pedal measurement dropping off?
One benefit I found to the hydraulic brake was that I could use Elastomers and get that "real" feeling without having them relax under foot. Also the ease of changing out elastomer stacks mean I actually change it between different cars. I use completely different elastomers for mx5, Oval Stock Cars, GTE, Prototypes and Formula Cars which really gives you a feeling of immersion and of each category feeling more different. I also really like having a haptic motor on the clutch pedal along with a really nice simhub app that lets you set a bite point feeling per car. definitely more an immersion thing but certainly helps me with standing starts if I am not using dual clutch (for example in older cars that don't have them or formulas where they are banned IRL).
I am definitely more an immersion focussed racer than pure esports pace though.
I agree with you! I like my p1000-RS. It would be a pleasure if you can share your elastomere setup for the different car classes.
@@Stiffler_90 I basically just use the recommended settings found on the simagic "Product Tutorial" page on the website. I personally don't use the springs as they are very easy to get stuck in the brake cylinder and make quick swapping quite hard but there is also a variety of options using them listed alongside the elastomer combinations in the "P-ORP(H) Quick Guide" found on the website.
for LMP2/3/GTP I use 5 blue,2 red and 2 gold restrictors. For GTE/GT3 I use 4 blue and 5 red. for stuff like the mx5 and gr86 I would use a mixture of black and grey elastomers and sometimes gold spacers. .
@@craigcalladine851doesn’t that get a bit tiring swapping out all the time? Also, shouldn’t there be an ideal setup of the brake pedal that works great/optimally for any car due to muscle memory and such?
I got the 3 pedal set with hydraulic brake and one haptic for ABS.
I came from Asetek Invicta pedals (bought them on pre-order years ago before we had so many options). I prefer these over the Invicta set all day long. After using the short 20-30 mm movement on the Invicta set for so long, I'm glad I finally made the move to a pedal that moves to around 50-60 mm ( don't have the exact measurement).
One thing I've noticed with the extra travel is that it makes the weight far easier to push. I went from 80kg on the Invicta and the short throw of the pedal made me feel like I was pushing myself through the back of the seat. I set these up with 80kg and it feels nothing like the Invictas. I actually thought the load sensor was broken because it feels like maybe 40kg compared to the Invicta pedals. Having the extra pedal movement really eases the pressure sensation.
Anyway, I love these pedals! Definitely recommend them.
For anyone who is using a wheelstand or a less rigid rig. I found that the default brake force required was too high as when I was using full pressure my chair was trying to lift.( I use a GT omega Apex with the chair link). However if you have the brake elastomer kit I found that using 2 70R, 3 80R, 3 80P elastomers provided a really nice two stage feel to the brake that will always talks about in his review, while not requiring a ton of force. Works great for my Wheel-stand setup.
Also something to note if anyone else is also using the GT omega Apex wheelstand with these. The pedal angle can be a little uncomfortable due to the lack of adjustment of the wheel plate on that particular wheelstand. I ended up un-attaching the pedal plate from the height adjustment so that the pedal plate could sit as low as possible and that was much more comfortable for someone like me who is 6’3.
Overall great pedals and Great review Will!
I also only bought the 2 pedal set with the elastomer kit which was $505 total from Sim-Motion US. Best pedal set I’ve owned. They have much more pedal adjustments and personally have the best breaks feel I’ve ever had. (I’ve had CSL Elite v2s, CSL LC and also had Simjack Pros.) Extremely excited to buy the haptic kit for the brake in the future.
I have the same wheel stand so I appreciate the heads up
Amazing pedal set. I have a 2 pedal set, and I couldn't be happier with them. The only complaint I have about the petals they addressed in their second batch. Which was my loadcell brake pedal squeaked after a couple of months. It wasn't a big deal, Just annoying and had to wipe the brake shaft before I raced. I emailed them after I heard they were providing greece with their new batch to see how much it would be. And they sent It out for free. And if you do a lot of gt3 racing I would recommend getting 2 haptic motors. Having traction control on the accelerator has been just as helpful as ABS on the break. I found my forever pedals. And excellent first class review as always boosted media.👏
I bought the inverted set a month or so ago and added the haptics and now adding the hydraulics. The smiles per mile is pretty high.
I also got the inverted kit and that was a game changer. I 3d printed a throttle range limiter to improve heel and toe but other than that they are so awesome out of the box
Had these for around 6 months and absolutely love them
A review on the fantastic SRP pedals would also be nice so as to make this company aware. In any case, congratulations for the fantastic work you do. Greetings from Italy 😊
Excellent job here again guys. I was waiting for your review before buying these pedals.
i want to add about the hydraulic brake when using the inverted kit, just always get the inverted hydraulic brake as you can use it for the base pedal AND inverted pedals as the resevoir is able to rotate on its axis
i got them in formula version (i only need clutch on my wheel). Accesories i would recommend are only 1 haptic (brake) and elastometer/spring upgrade kit for the brake. Hydraulic kit is just a feature since u still use loadcell sensor with it. If u want real hydraulic pedals just buy asetek ones which use hydraulic preassure sensor.
I'm currently looking upgrade my csl loadcell pedals ( not the V2 pedals) and been looking at these would you recommend them, can the clutch be removed and the brake put in it's place
Hey man, but did you find the hydraulics worth it? Do they feel better?
I love the haptic motor on my brake. I am just running 1 on my g29 brake pedal until I have the funds to upgrade my pedals (I 3d printed an adapter to mount it), but something to note that I did not realize at first is that if you buy the motor for pedals other than the P1000 then you also need to buy the controller board as well The controller is built into the base of the P1000 pedals.
I have the haptic motor on my throttle set to vibrate when I hit the upper rev limits, I find that useful.
That's an awesome idea. I didn't know we could set it to stuff like that. Thought we were limited to ABS, traction control and something else I can't remember off the top of my head.
@@noiamhippyman I've set that up in simhub, I also have wheel lock set to the brake pedal so I get useful feedback in cars without ABS systems.
Implementing both of these ideas. Thanks.
@@Metla666 I didn't know these worked in simhub. My fault for never trying lol
Thanks for sharing I'm definitely checking that out.
@@noiamhippymanjust ensure that you plug the pedals into your PC directly. Don’t use the Canbus on the wheel else SimHub won’t recognize it.
I know a way to solve the brake problem but it's at a little sacrifice depending on what your after. So basically the reason why the brakes go down like that even though your applying constant pressure is because the elastimas are relaxing. If you replace the elastimas with a spring, the brakes will stay consistently in that position without going down. No elastimas means you'll lose the break pad feeling but you'll have Load Cell brakes that actually work and stays in position with your foot. This is problem currently with every pedal set that use elastimas. Once the elastimas start to lose their ridgitiy they have that affect as seen in the video. Unfortunately untill companies find a new material or a way to combat this im afraid they all suffer the same fate unless you use spring.
I have combined a custom spring with only two elastomers. I believe I used red or grey (the harder ones). That matches the feel of my race spec Miata but is nowhere near as stiff as a GT3 break.
imsim talento solved this problem
I have this set. As for the driving with socks what I did was take one of the standard one to my local hardware store and just bought longer ones. Only a few mm, and fixed the issue. Also definitely get the break elastomer kit. Really helps adjusting depending on formula and GT cars. I do have the hydraulic on my break and it does make it 1000 times easier to adjust the pedal feel since it has a separate core that is easily accessible. Hope this helps. But it’s super modular and just flat out good product.
I love my p1000
I bought the long throttle plate and the extra spring pack but othe than that they are stock
Absolutely love the quality and performance you get for the cost
Great review as always!
I'd be very happy if you could review some "aliexpress" pedals, like the SIMJACK or SIMSONN Pro. There aren't really reviews from channels with the audience you have here and I'm really interested in your opinion. By the looks they are punching above their weight class. It's no secret, I'm interested in getting a set of SIMSONN Pro's with the Simagic haptic motors.
I'm only a 2-2.5K IR driver, so take that as you will. I got the simjack pros with elastomers upgrade. I've driven in 4 different rigs with all of them having high-end pedals. Simjacks must be good because I can go right into a high-end pedal and use the same muscle memory and it be on the money just like my cheaper heusinkveld clone. So what I think is, if I can push and get 80% pressure on iracing with a cheap set and do the exact same push and get 80% on a high end...iracing isnt going to know the difference. To the same point he has using a hall effect sensor. If you can use muscle memory and push 80% on a hall effect sensor that's all iracing cares about. I guess It just sounds cool to say "I have loadcell pedals."
I found that the Hydraulic brake improves the drop off by about 3-4% (just elastomers). Then when using the hydraulic brake with a spring and elastomer combo the drop off is at its lowest. I like running mine with the blue elastomers and a medium spring (red).
I do agree also at my skill level the difference is almost non existent but I do think that your top drivers will notice the drop off especially on the non hydraulic brake 🤷🏼♂️
Great video as always 🙌🏻
Hey man, have you tried the pedal with springs but without hydraulics? Im trying to understand if the hydraulics are worth it
i actually swapped out for the spring with 3d printed washers alternative for the brake pedal - then switched back to the elastomers. I dunno I don't have an issue with the elastomers, they work just fine once you get used to them. I want to get the haptics for the throttle and brake.
I have had these for 6+months now, and like them, while I can see the fall off in the brake register you mention if I use the graph in the software and keep a constant position. However this if you think about it's because you are not applying a consistent pressure but trying to keep a constant position. If you keep 60kg on the pedal the the elastomer can't make 5kg dissappear the still has only one place to go the load cell. That is why in real conditions as long as you keep a constant pressure you won't be aware of it. The compression does affect preloaded though and I suggest before setting preload press the brake hard. Also grease the ball on the load cell to brake housing joint I found this made the brake a lot smoother. I also lightly greased the innards as well which also made it a bit smoother.
My biggest gripe is they are too upright and this is not adjustable, the adjustment they have only tilts the face it doesn't really move the face back, I like the accelerator tilted back slightly. I achieved that by inserting a 2mm plastic spacer between the pedal and return stop. I find the curved face not very comfortable but have got used to it but will probably have some made which are flat and don't have the huge holes in the middle. My accelerator spring rubbing the inside of the tube and makes a rubbing sound not loud but it shouldn't do it. The clutch bite point for me is in the wrong place it's right at the end of travel when it should be nearer the centre of travel.
I came from the fanatec csl pedals which for me are fantastic vfm, the simagic pedals are better but if you get on with the csl's I would stick with them unless you are heavily in to sim racing and have an ally profile type rig and a dd wheel etc the csl's for me were more than acceptable. I certainly didn't get any faster changing. I did kill the rubbers on the csl though through using the brake at 100% and changed to springs which although were less progressive had a cleaner feel and I got on with them quite well. Will try the upgrade kit for the simagic's which has more elastomers and springs. I will also add the haptic feedback.
I’m running their haptics on the accelerator and brake on my Fanatec V3’s and they are awesome through sim hub. I think it was about $150 US dollars for everything needed but I created the mounting solution. I don’t particularly care for their software for the haptics because how limited it is compared with sim hub.
If anyone is curious about these for mainly the haptics they can most likely be adapted to your current pedals.
A review of the P2000 with the hydraulic brake would be very interesting. These P1000 seem like good pedals but nothing special...
I want to try the Haptic motors on my VRS pedals with third party adapters that people have been using, I think this will be a great combo.
Looking forward to your video on the haptics specifically, using them on my he ultimates brake and throttle. Can say they are excellent once setup correctly and the throttle is absolutely worth it even in iracing they can give you the feel of wheel slip which has really helped catching slides on oversteer. Once iracing does proper traction loss telemetry I assume it will only be better, other sims already include it so if you drive multiple they are more than worth it.
Will, if you got the early version of these pedals, they've changed the circuit board on the brakes and it will fix that drop off problem with your brake. Just contact simagic and they'll hook you up
i got them for over 2 months now and absoluetly love them. The only problem i got was the pedals were too vertikal, straight. Have to tilt them little bit to the back abd lower the pedalplates.
Now they are perfect.
I was just saying to my GF yesterday that I hope this video comes out soon :) Think this'll be my next set upgrading the whole kit from T300 stuff.
i went with the triple pedal set, added 2 haptics, replaced the elastomers in the brake with springs from the optional set, and replaced the throttle spring with a stiffer one and reduced the travel
its just perfect now
with the upgraded spring set do you notice the relaxation effect or does that upgrade cure it ?
@@stoica666 it definitely fixes the problem, its the reason i bought it
got P1000 for maybe 2 weeks, but bought thet with extra elastomers and springs mod, first I used basic elastomers and ware way better then I thought, but I decided to see how pure spring mode will work (I used GT3 style mode), wow its way better, no relaksation, stifnes of brake is better but pedal travel is same and trail braking is a pure joy, I thought that I cant trail braking but it was just my V3, I improved my lap time on Valencia almoust 1 sec just becouse trail barking started to be so easy. I think I'll change my ecosystem for Simagic, if eny one of you have any doubts please get rid of it, its night and day compare to my previous setup. See you on track :)
Did using the optional springs for the brakes solved the drop off on the measurement of the brake pedal?
@@Jose-pq4bc Yes, no drop at all and the feeling is awsom
I'm now running this combination: base set + spring kit + haptic motor on brake and throttle. I bought the hydraulic upgrades for both brake and throttle, but it seems like I got a defective unit for the brake hydraulic upgrade, since it started leaking after a few weeks. I did get a free replacement from Simagic, though I've decided to run it without the hydraulics. There are some noticeable differences in feel, but after a few days of driving I got used to it.
One other thing I hope they would change is the cylinder for the springs/elastomers on hydraulic brake upgrade. It is really hard to change out new springs since there is no center post going through it, making it super hard to align everything correctly since the cylinder is not pointing straight up, I broke two plastic washers just because it wasn't aligned correctly. And it is really hard to know how far to screw in the cap, as there is no hard stop on it, so it is possible to screw in too much such that you start compressing the springs.
Just upgraded my Moza rig with Simagic, expected delivery in the next days.
Joined the Simagic family!
I'll miss Moza, it was my first direct drive wheel and ecosystem, but I feel like they're lagging behind a little bit in certain areas.
Had mine a few months. Do like them. Have the hydraulic brake add-on. Worth pointing out that the inverted hydraulic brake fits the standard pedals.(Just need to make sure the reservoir is pointing up). So you could get this if you want to keep your options open about getting the inverted kit later
Got mine a week ago, inverted hydraulic brake, and p-hpr on the brake and throttle, i recently upgraded to dd simagic mini from thrustmaster tgt2, and this completely blow my mind how good dd base, anyways for some time I still using my thrustmaster tlcm pedals, now I got p1000i and my on ea wrc rally time improved 15-20 seconds, honestly I cannot believe it, soon upgrading hand break and simagic shifter, only one I can recommend if you realy like sim racing, don't waist your money for thrustmaster, because later or sooner you want to upgrade on something very high quality, if you casual sim racing and want have some fun, buy 2nd hand Logitech G29 and enjoy, hope it helps for someone to decide which way to go.
I am in the market for new pedals that wont break the bank and I thought the P1000 looked great. But I guess I am one of those who think the load cell issue is a deal breaker. Im sorry but if I am paying out this kind of money I expect no reduction in braking whether I can feel it or not. Just my opinion. If i have to use angle braking with this set why not just stay with my G27 pedals? Someone down below mentioned that the issue may have been fixed can anyone confirm that? As always great review, really appreciate the depth and honest opinions
They fixed that long ago idk his list of been old
I don't know about almost.
I think that word probably could have been omitted 😂.
They seem/sound awesome. Fair enough the simucube active pedals can't be matched.
But for most people, these pedals are the epitome
I think they gonna be the budget endgame the moment they gonna offer a set of thicker elastomers to mitigate the relaxing effect, which I do notice when braking.
Everything else though is spot on, even in a 100kg loadcell that is only 100 CAD cheaper than a set or VNM V1s. I have the P1000s and I love them, but I can see why one would opt for the VNMs
@@limpetarch98k im probably gonna get csl elite v2s and mod the throttle with a damper kit. I think thats gonna be the best bang for buck and ive already got the damper and a 3D printer
I've owned the p1000-s for 9 months now. For me elastomers just could not work. These elastomers do tend to die, 1 is kinda machined to bits every 1-2 months and then you have to swap the set. Regular WD40-ing and making sure you did not overtighten the whole is necessary, but the cap gets a bit loose if you are using a somewhat stern setup, making the braking a bit different and inconsistent.
I tried so many combination, soft on one end, harders on the other, swap them, move some softers in between the harder ones (the most amount of unwanted release) and every single combination their pamphlet offered. Then I got the upgrade set with the springs, and it solved about 90% of the issues.
Some people/products can make elastomers work, but I don1t think they are the way to go really. The springs I think are vastly superior experience whether or not you are using loadcell or hydraulic. For me, the haptics are something I refuse to drive without, those are the best help for my current skill level.
What this person said. I just "upgraded" mine to springs and it's way better.
WD40 PTFE may be a good idea but petrol wd40 will dissolve certain polimers, like TPE
@@gergelykoszegi9541 Thanks for the info. Well I did that after 3-4 elastomers died (maybe half a year) already and after using wd40, it did not seem to affect the speed they got machined/died, but maybe it didnt help either. Also, I have both kind of wd40 and have no idea which one I used. (they are next to each other on the shelf)
Hey man, do you think the hydraulic kit is worth it or they add very little compared to the springs upgrade?
Hi Will, great review mate! I would really love to see a review to the Simgrade VX Pro, i own these pedals they work in a very interesting mechanical way with bearings. I would love to hear your opinion on these pedals!
Im keeping road bumps and asphalt slight feel and rpm and shifts in the haptics beside other usual effects on all pedals, you feel the road all the way, I oilded the elastormers with some synthetic high quality oil so they don't get sticky and reduce the speed of lifting the brake and making them more consistent although try at your own risk
can you please do the P2000s review, its still hard to tell the differences between the two. Thanks
As a console player, I am looking forward what Fanatec V4 could bring in the future..if Fanatec stay alive 😊
Thnx for this review! I was looking forward to this, it made my search for new pedals a bit easier. Can you please also review the SIMTRECS PRO PEDAL GT? This thing sounds and looks amazing. Is reviewed by others but i value you're opinion and expertise Boosted!!!
Having run both these pedals the simtrecs to me still feel under foot a lot better. They just feel more premium like you are using an $ high end pedal set.
The new simtrecs now comes with a haptic motor built into the brake.
@@barrymanon9459 thnx for your reaction. Tell me more about the pedals please, is it hard to set it up? Any downsides? Blemishes?
@@barrymanon9459better brake feel than the Simagic?
P2000 review be fantastic mate pleaseeee 🙏 🙏 🙏 just bought them and I'm a bit overwhelmed and lost
Are you planning to review the Simgrade VX-Pro? It looks like a different enough pedal that it would be interesting to compare to the traditional elastomer base pedals.
Great stuff Will!!!🤤
Now you told us what upgrades you would get for performance, but what upgrades would you recommend for me where immersion is my priority?
Everything?😂
Maybe jsut add the throttle motor. I still don't think the damper or hydraulic brake are necessary.
Motion sim and VR...
@@Metla666 Well, I'm half way there..🤣
P1000 here did the hydraulic upgrade for throttle wasn't worth it. The brake performance kit was a game changer. The recommendations that simagic put out are very good. Hapetic is something I have considered. Had rumblers on my old bj pedals and wasn't overly impressed.
pretty sure the new brake kit has metal spacers to get rid of the elastomers relaxing, same kind of setup as the ones in the hydraulic option
Pedals looking as good deal for that price! I went from Asetek Invicta to Simucube AP and never missed that hydraulic efect so my chice will be same :)
you make INSANELY GOOD videos! w Boosted Media
35:09 When will be see the stand-alone haptics review? Thanks - love and appreciate your work!
What a great and thorough review. 😎
love mine i just inverted them and realized they get quite long once adjusted... would love to have that hydraulic throttle however with some heavy grease in the cylinder i got mine feeling quite nice
I got the inverted set with the hydraulic brake and 2 shakers, one for brake and the other for accelerator. I highly recommend the hydraulic brake. Just feels amazing and so precise. Best set of pedals I've ever had.
My lap times have definitely improved since owning them. Which surprised me, becuase i thought i had reached my natural limit. But they have unlocked more from me now.
I mostly play acc, so feeling the abs and tc kick in is a real treat. Its even taught me to threshold brake just before the abs kicks in to get maximum braking efficiency. And its great for feeling when the rear tyres are spinning and the tc kicks in. You can be more progressive with your inputs with the info you get to your senses that way.
Just wish there was a setting in the app where you could set it to like a smart profile where it knows when its in a car that has abs and/or tc and will rumble when it triggers them and then if there is no abs or tc in the car, it would rumble when the tyres lock up or the rear loses traction. Having to manually switch the setting can get tedius.
17:36 small correction: 16-bit (65,536) has 16x more resolution than 12-bit (4,096).
I sold all my Fanatec gear to go all in on Simagic: Alpha + FX Pro Wheel + P1000 Dual with Both Haptics and Light Bar Kit bc why not. My minor gripe with pedals compared to CSL Elite V2 is slippery bottom where my heel rest and pedal face which I can’t run bare foot like on the V2 which had great grip. Also slippery with socks so I find myself wearing barefoot shoes when racing which give me better feel.
I don't know for sure, but I bet you can find some pedal pads that will fit these. I don't have my 1000 yet, but if you measure the plates and then search for pads in that size, you may be able to find something that works. Would probably cost about $20-$30 to add that onto each pedal if you find something that works.
I had the Fanatec CSL elite v2 pedals. They were good but the loadcell broke and it took fanatec a good 2 months to get me a replacement loadcell. By which time I had purchased a set of these. The difference in quality is astronomical. The fanatecs feel like a toy in comparison and lack any adjustability other than the brake pedal which cannot be adjusted nearly as finitely as these. Also a point of note is that I had exactly the same elastomer relaxation issue with the fanatecs as with these. About the same ~10% reduction in measured force over a couple seconds. The fanatecs just didn’t have an angle sensor to back them up. In Canada after import fees and taxes the fanatecs came to $500 Canadian dollars and these simagic pedals were $800. More than worth the extra cash to me personally.
I just bought the Simagic spring kit to test with my Fanatec CSL Elite V2. Basic dimensions seem compatible so I plan to test and find a coil spring combo at a similar force to the default blue coil + 3x 65 elastomer. Hoping to have a similar basic feel while ditching the relaxation issue.
@@Chader9 I actually purchased some die springs from a Chinese supplier to use with my V2s and it did eliminate the relaxation problem. I’ve got the brake tuning kit coming for my p1000s hopefully using springs should eliminate the problem with these as well!
Love my p1000s, came from fanatec which was complete trash compared to these. I got the elastomer kit and still using the out of box setup after 4 or 5 months
Hey guys, been eagerly waiting for this review since I heard that it was in the works (possibly from you guys on reddit?). Anyway, I was wondering if now that you have hands on the 1000, you plan to review the 2000s and/or compare them? The differences are fairly subtle and I'm not certain the value is there, but I'm still very curious.
Awesome video as always, thanks for the effort you put in!
Yeah well, that's out of my pay scale but I was wondering, where's the Logitech G Pro Wheel teardown "promised" after you got 2000 likes (which I believe you got fairly quickly?
Keep up the vids mate.
Have been looking forward to your simagic reviews . Looking to invest in their bases pedals and shifters
Cross shopped these with VRS pedals. Ultimately found a used set of VRS pedals for $450 so I couldn't say no.
whats the point of hydraulic on the throttle? surely its not simulating the feel of a throttle by wire nor cam and cable throttle setup.
Great review! Similar spec to what’s in my simmagic cart now except I was going to opt for inverted to be closer to irl layout (and to keep the electronics off the floor). Will wait for your haptic review but you’re so far implying the haptics have no function in non-abs and non-tc cars? So just so I’m clear: I won’t feel lockup or wheelspin in the iracing rain in an f1600 via haptics?
I’ve been using p1000s for about 6 months as well and largely agree, outside of haptics most every other option isn’t necessary, especially the hydraulic throttle, i absolutely hated that. The new spring kit is also worth looking at as well. For the haptics, simhub brings a ton more function and I feel makes haptics on the throttle really worth it to me. I’d also add the throttle spring if you want to stiffen it up can use the clutch spring.
Oh wow I hit refresh at a great time. I've had these for a while now and love them. Only issue I've had is there is one screw that always likes to come loose. Excited to see what you have to say about them!
EDIT: I personally only bought the main pedal and a single motor for ABS feedback on the brake. It's been an excellent investment in my sim racing hobby.
A drop of blue loctite might solve the screw issue. Just remember that it has a 24 hour cure time.
I have and love them. I would option the hydraulic brake for feel.
Hi, thank you for your review. Who know why Fanatec don't have a high-end pedals set like p1000. I hope it will arrive asap!
I found that even with all black elastometers it was still very stiff. Guess it's just something I'll have to get use to. Very nice over my g29 logi pedals. But I'm finding it hard to get use to these new ones.
id like to know if with the upgraded spring kit for the brake gets rid of the bleed effect or if the hydraulic brake gets rid of this bleed effect
Ditto. Bummed he didn't test with the steel spring option to show if it does/does not fix the issue.
Basic engineering and feedback related to other steel brake pedals says it will fix it.
But it sure would have been nice to see the A/B test right there. Missed opportunity.
@lukebennellick4315 thanks for confirming. As it happens, I got that spring kit to use on my Fanatec CSL Elite V2. Nice kit with so many options and will be happy to have consistent feel & function.
If someone would tell me that these are Fanatec Clubsport V4 pedals I would believe it immediately. Time for Fanatec to copy and improve these pedals and take them in production. I consider to get one of these haptic reactors for the brake pedal of my Sim Lab XP1 pedals, do these haptic reactirs also come with other colors besides red, I’m allergic to red and does not match with my pedals … can paint the red black of course. Would like to see a revisit of the Sim Lab pedals because they solved the software issues in the meantime and I am very happy with the XP1 pedals (coming from Fanatec V3 with BPK).
Waiting for the Moza mBooster reviews. Looking to get an R12 base and want to see if I keep old Fanatec CS2 pedals or upgrade without paying two lots of shipping.
I’ve got P2000s with haptics. I’ve had 2 x hydraulic leaks. Supplier has been excellent and replaced the brake twice. I was told the earlier versions had potential leaks in fluid canister. Haven’t had issue since.
I was wondering if real life racing drivers, who are also sim racers (Verstappen, Norris, Daniel Morad, James Baldwin, et cetera), use haptic reactors or not and what is their opinion about them? I always learned that visual cues are the most important ones and that the other cues are always later or too late. Verstappen is also alien fast on controller, so maybe all our ffb, haptic and other stuff are only pure for immersion? Which I do like btw because you want to have the feeling to be in a real car as much as possible.
Yeah ffb is just a gimmick. Does nothing! Lmao
@@Remzly it adds to immersion and to the learning process but aliens can set alien lap times based on visual cues only. Stuff to read: Perfect Control: A Driver's Step-By-Step Guide to Advanced Car Control Through the Physics of Racing
Can you review this next mate ? SIMAGIC Q1S SEQUENTIAL SHIFTER
I'm running the P1000 with 2 haptics, and absolutely love them. I'd been wondering whether the hydraulic upgrades would be worth it or not so really useful to hear your opinions on that.
It was interesting to hear you talking about the Fanatec Elite v2's, as these were the pedals I upgraded from and I have to say the difference in braking feel was night and day, I have so much more control using the P1000's. I'm certainly not anywhere near being a top level driver so there are definitely skill issues here but the upgrade from the Elite v2's was absolutely worth the upgrade for me.
What is the ABS accessory you recommended in the conclusion? Do you mean a haptic module just for the brake?
You recommend Heusinkveld Ultimate+ in the end of the review for high end. Can you explain a bit why, cause I'm owning them right now and never get satisfied of the feeling. I was looking to swap to other brand due to that
I've been looking at these pedals for a while but I still haven't seen a video addressing my biggest concern and that is the fact that the pedals seem so freakin high... There's only 1 adjustment I can see and that's the pedal plate. Can someone share their experiences with these pedals as far as how tall they are?
I dont know if its because I run the Simagic GT1D Pro, which is a fairly large wheel, or because Im tall at 6’2 and a half (meaning I have long legs). But yeah I had to play around with the rig’s position so that my legs dont bump the flat bottom of my wheel.
If I was you, I would probably buy a shaft extension.
@@limpetarch98k that's not I mean, not at all. What I mean is that the pedal faces seen to be sitting REALLY high on the pedal shaft.. I wear a size 11 shoe, but it still seems like I'd be pushing the pedal in with my tippie toes.. Is that not the case?
I disagree on the usefulness of the throttle haptics, with brake and throttle, you can have the both represent the front left and front right wheels with lock and slip effects, also rumble strip effects are quite immersive. Def worth getting both imo, clutch haptics is completely useless though, btw you can build your own kit for less than half the cost too, plus SimHub is a much better effects control software
Looking to Upgrade from the Moza SRP Lite, I am still hesitating to get the Hydraulic Brake mod with it out of the box, or should I just get the standard version & then Upgrade to the hydraulic mod later on.
What I am looking for is basically brake & throttle precision, I do more Oval Racing with aim to eNascar with the Road to Pro in iRacing & some drifting thoo.
So does their inverted version simply have a body that allows you to mount on a non-inverted rig plate?
Pricing out a TrakRacer and considering the convertible pedal plate to run racing pedals inverted, with flight rudders eventually mounted to the top. Considering the P1000 as an upgrade to my CSL pedals, but may start standard before swapping to inverted.
How did you find the short heal plate? Thanks for your reviews.
Question. Does the pedal connects directly to PC on USB or I need a simagic base for it? I have a T300RS GT and would upgrade the pedals only initially, but I don't want to buy an accessory simply to connect the pedals to PC....
Boosted media would you go for the csl elite v2s or the p1000 i would be coming from the standard csl pedals with lc
What's with the Noise of the clutch, is it a loude metal on metal clack like theire old one or is it dampend like the endstops on the other pedals?
And please go into detail regarding vibration noise in your haptics video!
So I disagree that the hydraulic brake is not needed- and you explained why. The standard brake relaxes and does not stay at a steady pressure, which is an issue that is addressed by hydraulic brake. I have much better fine control of braking and similar feel to my car with the hydraulic brake. I agree that you only need the haptic motor for the brake. Skip all the other upgrades as you said.
Since the P-HYS also uses the same elastomers inside the black barrel, how does it not suffer from the same compression issue as the standard brake cylinder? From what I see, the hydraulic brake converts the pedal travel into hydraulic compression that the pushes a actuator in the black section to compress the elastomer stack.
Considering the hydraulic action is just a different "actuator", it sure seems likely that the elastomers will have the same compression creep and force decrease.
Tested mine today for the first time...they are awesome... the only downside is a very long throttle travel, even on shortest settings
I’ve been using the P1000 for about 8 months now. I got the haptic motor for the brake, the hydraulic brake and hydraulic throttle. The haptic motor is a must if you drive cars with ABS… it’s literally a competitive advantage over someone who doesn’t have it. The hydraulic throttle is a bit useless… I like that I can adjust the stiffness on the fly but I don’t think it’s worth the price.
I disagree with the take that the hydraulic brake is not worth it. Sure, it won’t make you faster, but it feels way more natural. Also, the problem with the elastomers relaxing resulting in a gradual fall in brake force is not an issue with the hydraulic brake.
Overall, I would recommend to start out with just adding the haptic motor to the brake, see how you like the feel of the brake. And then upgrade to the hydraulic brake if you don’t like it. Don’t bother with the hydraulic throttle.
Since the P-HYS also uses the same elastomers inside the black barrel, how does it not suffer from the same compression issue as the standard brake cylinder? From what I see, the hydraulic brake converts the pedal travel into hydraulic compression that the pushes a actuator in the black section to compress the elastomer stack.
Considering the hydraulic action is just a different "actuator", it sure seems likely that the elastomers will have the same compression creep and force decrease.
@@Chader9 I have a theory. Provided the hydraulic unit adds a degree of damping to the brake pedal, then it’s the same reason they use dampers on Husinkveld Ultimate’s, same for Simtrecs. The damper effect slows down the ramp up in pressure being applied by the driver, the higher that change in pressure is. This then essentially masks the relaxation issue of the elastomers by making the drivers pressure input seem more gradual than it really was onto the brake pedal face, from the perspective of the elastomers.
Hello! What's the difference between these pedals and the P2000?
im torn between this or heuskinveld ultimate+
I think the p1000's are better if i just buy all the recommended mods for it.
I'm using P1000iRs Inverted Pedals. about the elastomer issue,combine the springs with the elastomer and that lost of LC pressure is gone. Or just use the springs itself. Job done
Could I ask if I can mount the pedals directly onto the 4080 rig instead of the base that comes with the set?
What are your thoughts on the somatic FX pro wheel?