The DIFFERENCE between HEAT STRESS and Lawn Fungus
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- This video is going to help you determine the difference between HEAT STRESS and FUNGUS. Often times people get HEAT STRESS and FUNGUS confused just because they leave brown spots in your lawn. When the summer heat arrives, these are the two things that can reside in your lawn. The good thing about this video is I'm going to help you see the difference between the two. The way that you can tell is FUNGUS has lesions on the blades or it may have mycelium on the grass in the mornings. The grass blades for HEAT STRESS curl up as thin as the straws on a broom stick and it doesn't have any lesions/spots on the grass blades. I also give you information in this video on how you can correct these issues if you see them in your lawn. I hope this video helps you in your lawn journey. Thank you for watching and have a blessed day.
Thank you for your support,
Be Blessed
Polo
"We Workin"
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Fungicide Results for a diseased lawn
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How do I know if I have a fungus in my lawn?
• How to Identify Lawn F...
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How to prepare your lawn for a fungus
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#heatstress #Fungus #Fungussprayforgrass #Fungusthateffectsturfgrass #Lawndisease #Bioadvanced #ScottsdiseaseX #Propiconizolefungicide #Brownpatch #Dollarspot #Meltingout #Leafspot #Clearys3336ffungicide #polofieldslawnservice #heatadvisory
Great info bro. Well explained and showing the difference. Hope many get to see this video. Knowledge is key.
Thanks Striperman, best way to get things out is Word of Mouth. Share it with your folks 👍🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService for reals, why grass be givin brown a bad name.
@@DugEphresh 😁
Polo dropping big brain knowledge on y’all, y’all need be listening.
💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
I ain’t going to even hold you. You’re a good dude. Most lawn care companies won’t explain this to a customer because on the low they don’t want the customer to figure it out on their own and take care of the matter themselves. They feel they’ll loose that customer as well as money. You just gained a subscriber mane.💪🏾
Preciate you, bro. They don't want the customer to know a LOT of stuff because if they do, they could lose money. I think a person would love that you're being up front with them. If they leave, they leave, but mist people will stay with you because you're telling the truth
@@PoloFieldsLawnServiceThat’s a FACT!💪🏾
You are right. Heat stress: would be better for soil inspection. Remove rocks from soil.
You're on it 👍🏾
I’m fighting both of them itches….👍🏾🌴
😆😆😆 Double edge sword down there 🙏🏾🙏🏾👇🏾
Bro, thank you for the video, my new lawn was so beautiful in the spring but this brutal summer heat caused it to yellow, now I can go out there and identify what the cause is, if I'm watering too much or not enough
That's awesome, man. I'm glad this video gave you the knowledge for the future 💯
Thank you great video
No Problem Neilpro 👍🏾
Most valuable information, this really helped me. Best video on the topic I have ever seen (and I am OLD)
Thanks John, I'm glad it has helped you 👍🏾
Thanks best explanation and info I've seen on heat vs fungus.
Thanks Focused Media 😎
Great video quality information and much needed. Really appreciate info thanks.
Appreciate you 👍🏾
Very well explained. Thank you!
Your welcome 👍🏾
Thanks for the info!
No Problem Mark 👍🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService always appreciative
Good stuff!
@@rdspam Thanks 👍🏾
Good video! Thanks! From the Transition Zone ...
No Problem mysterious e. If your in the transition zone you will have several opportunities to sharpen your knowledge in knowing the difference between the 2. I'm glad this video has helped 🙏🏾
Great video. Very informative, and really appreciate you adding the photos.
No problem 👌🏾
Awesome video! Tks!!
No problem, Leeroy, thanks for tuning in
Yeah people think "oh my grass is brown its burning from the heat" not realizing they actually are overwatering and have fungus and are making it worse. Great presentation and easy to understand explanation.
Yes sirrrr and this is why I made the video to let people know that there could be something else wrong besides Heat Stress. It could be a fungus. Both of them leave brown spots in your lawn. But there's a way that you can tell the difference between the two 👍🏾
Thank you for the knowledge. I'm in the grass industry and I didn't know that about heat stress!
🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾 Gald that I could help you Joe
great video. thanks
Your welcome 🙏🏾
Awesome info, will brown patch or heat stress recover ?
Yes Sirrrr, Heat Stress will recover with Consistent water. Brown Patch will recover with a fungicide.
☀Top notch video, Polo! Excellent job educating. 😎 I see a lot of Bermuda heat stress lately. You recommend any "stress blends" during the heat with low N?
Since Bermuda loves the heat you can definitely hit it with some low nitrogen to keep it green. A slow release fertilizer like Hybrix that has low N and a higher K will work excellent for these conditions
so i have some heat stressed grass by your definition but it's nice size patches of it but grass is not sticking up - it's a bit matted in my view - is it salvageable ?
If the blades are thin with NO SPOTS on them, it's heat stressed. Stand those blades up by raking it and give it some water. It will turn back green with water. Now, if it has spots on the grass blades, don't give it any water. You need a fungicide. Stay tuned because I have a video coming out soon that talks all about heat stress. Hope this helps 🙏🏾
If you are using azoxystrobin and propaconazole and don't have any fungus how much of each would you use for a 22,000sq ft yard? I'm only asking so I know what to use this summer. Thank you!
Hello Craig, My first question to you is have you ever dealt with fungus in your lawn before? If not, I don't recommend that you just start purchasing these products and putting them down on your lawn and you've never seen or had to battle with fungus. No need in spending your hard earned money on products for symptoms that you don't deal with if you understand what I mean. If you do deal with fungus, most fungus is going to require different rates depending on which one that you have in your lawn so make sure that you identify what fungus it is before you apply. When using any fungicide, it's best to treat it as a PREVENTATIVE so you would go down with the low rate when conditions are favorable. So for example, if you deal with Brown Patch, the low rate for Propiconizole 14.3 is 1oz per 1,000. For Azoxystrobin, the low rate is 0.38oz per 1,000. Now remember, different fungus may require different rates so read the label FIRST so you will know which rate to apply. I know this is a loaded answer but I hope this helps 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Thanks so much for your help!
@@chrissmith4793 No problem
what kind of grass is that.
Tall Fescue
Whats up polo !! Hey so i put dwn a 7-0-20 yard mastery stress blend after my soil test came back!! This was 4 weeks ago it worker some what . Should i put dwn another round? Its a slow released fertilizer. My lawn just wont turn green lol fyi its a cool season lawn in southern cali . Idk if its a disease or just the hot weather !!
@yeremy7144 It's probably just hot weather. I would be careful when pushing your lawn with a lot of nitrogen during a stressful period. The best thing that you can do is water it and stay off of it. I cut mine once every 2 weeks now, and I haven't fertilized it in over a month
@@PoloFieldsLawnService thanks for the info i will fertilized at End of summer
@yeremy7144 Yep, let it cool down a lil bit, bro. I know it's super hot over there. Tall Fescue wants to rest in the summer heat. You can apply nitrogen, but I wouldn't risk it. That's just my opinion.
Now, if it was a Bermuda Lawn, that would be a different story
@@PoloFieldsLawnService thanks for info bro do you have an email ? Don’t know if you take emails i can snap some pics n send them to you just to to get your opinion regardless thxs
Had a beautiful stand.. very healthy and green till late June here in DC area. Anyway, let's not forget the need for Aeration so that water has a chance to soak in. Roots in search for water have to go deeper, but may not be able, expecially if you only have an inch of soil on top of clay. Looks like with some near brutal aeration (tow behind spike water filled aerator) with heavy watering may have resurrected my near dead lawn. Plugger Rental is a rip off.. I'd need it for several days. Took me a few cycles to break thru with a spike aerator, plus plugger gets plugged is a big maintenance problem. Some areas took Water/Aerate/Water/Aerate to get the spikes to penetrate. One area that was near concrete, I actually injected (a Root Fertilizer hose implement) water to break it up, and mix in some good soil. Will know in a couple weeks.. mid July here now. Looks greener already, but a ways to go. Last year was a total loss with this fancy over Hyped Fescue.. if it Dies, going Zoyzia.. best grass ever, but takes a few years (4 or 5) to fill in.
@@markhall3434 If you can grow zoysia up in the DC area, go for it 👍🏾
Good stuff!
Thanks Nathan 💪🏾
Heat Stress? Isn't watering the lawn continuously until it comes back healthy going to be quite costly if you on a water meter?
You do have to give your lawn water, but you don't have to bomb it with water to the point that you're making your water bill high. Remember, you need at least an inch of water per week( or close to it) to maintain that green color in your lawn. That inch can come from your sprinklers or from rain. Bottom line: If you don't water it, it'll turn brown and then bounce back when cooler Temps cycle back around. The question is, depending on where you live and if you have a cool season lawn, can you live with a brown lawn for 3-4 months, or however long it's hot in your area?
Came across your channel by chance, but realized you did a great job explaining things in a digestible fashion. Keep up the great work, Polo!
Thank you, Chad, for checking the channel out. I try my best to make it as easy as possible for anyone to understand this lawncare thing. I appreciate your support 🙏🏾
Thank you. I am going to water that ugly brown patch.
I'm still waiting on some pictures...
Great video, can you show the difference between a fungus and grub damage? I mistook grub damage for a fungus late last summer. Big mistake!
If I run across some grub damage...... I will. Thank you, Gary 👍🏾
Hello there, just wanted u to know the eagle 20 ew is working. Just been a week but I can tell. I do have another? Im.going.too put some talstar P on the lawn. Should this b watered in? Somewhat confused by the label. Thanks much!
Hello Susan, that's awesome about the eagle 20 and thanks for keeping me updated. As far as the Talstar P, no need to water it in. Just don't spray it down right before a rain.
@@PoloFieldsLawnService thank u much
Thank you Brother. Finally got the straight scoop on telling the difference between dry grass n fungus. Need to time-mark 5:50 to note those fungicide treatments. 🙏🏼 You are the man!
(..thought our gardener brought it in from the other lawns!)
@@hblee88 You're welcome 👍🏾
I always apply fungus control in June and July before fungus can happen. Same with grub control. Need to use as a preventative correct?? I also use YM stress blend granule fertilizer
You're on it. It's best if you prevent fungus vs.correcting it. It also depends on where you live. Our pressure where I live normally hits us in May.
@@PoloFieldsLawnService I am in Boston area so my first application in mid June then second application mid July. Grub control is first week of June. Pre emergent in mid April. We have kicked out in Boston area. It has Rained every week. Have not had to use sprinkler system this season. Last season 2022 just the opposite. We had no rain at all very little. My water bill was through the roof last year. This year free water!!
@brodygoalie It's been the same down here. I haven't had to use much water at all. We've been receiving a lot of rain each week up until now, which is normally our dry period of the year. But of course, dealing with fungus is an ongoing battle between May and October.
What’s it mean if I put down fungicide and some brown patches are turn green however now weeds are appearing that weren’t there before
That means that the grass that was there is dead, and summer weeds are starting to grow in its place. Pull those weeds up and throw some seeds in those areas in the fall
@@PoloFieldsLawnService thanks!
Polo!! You stay dropping lawn care gems 💎💎💎 Preciate you bro! You got me out hear sounding like an expert in my neighborhood 🤣🤣 #classisinsession #weworkin #teampolo
😆😆 Pass that information to the neighbors 💪🏾💪🏾 Thanks again On The Lawn. #Weworkin
So what if you're battling both? If I water more for the heat stress, I'll make the fungus problem worse. What should I attack first?
@gazzelle4 Fungicide first. A fungus will spread quicker than heat stress. Just don't apply a fungicide where the heat stress is located. Once the fungus goes away, begin your watering to bounce your stressed lawn back. Just water early in the mornings.
Bermuda Grass is tricky to detect if you have fungus because the grass blade is already thin. I don't see any spots in the blade or mycelium in the morning. Water that area intensely for 3 weeks. I have to do more research
@touchdown74 If you don't see any spots on the grass blades or the brown area isn't in a funny shape, direct line, circle or the grass isn't matted down by root rot, it most likely isn't a fungus. But there are other things that could make brown spots this time of the year besides heat. It could be insect damage, or maybe a dog took a leak in your lawn and created a brown spot. That's something that you would have to look at closer.
Is there way to tell the difference of grub damage v heat stress?
Sorry for the late reply Ryan. If its insect damage, you would be able to pull the dead grass up easily with no struggle
Thank you so much! I was worried I had fungus and used diseaseX by Scott’s, and still had large brown areas. Used your info, mu lawn is heat stressed
God bless you, Robert. I'm glad this video helped you 👍🏾
My grass also has heat stress. I have my irrigation running 2 times per day. 4am and 5pm. Is that too much or too little?
@jmfitness1583 First, you shouldn't be watering at 5 pm. This could raise the risk of your grass blades remaining wet while you go into the night, and that could cause a disease or insect problem.
Second, how long are you watering?
I have a video that shows you how to water your lawn in the summer.
👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾
ua-cam.com/video/b0GfPxPpIVc/v-deo.htmlsi=yLUYNlFxgpKfmOpz
If you have time, view that video above. Get back to me and let me know 👍🏾
Good information. I had a lawn test last year and I have a problem with grey leaf spot, and brown patch. I have tttf in the transition zone. When should I start applying a fungicide? Is Propiconazole 14.3 and Headway G fungicide the best treatment? Thank you John
Depends on when you normally get hit with a fungus. We normally see fungus around the middle of May so I start with my applications at the beginning of May. I would use Cleary's 3336 to get rid the the brown patch and Leaf spot. You can use Headway and Propiconizole but thats what I would do. If that's all that you have, put down your headway BEFORE you get hit with a fungus. Water it in, wait 20-25 days before reapplying. Same with Propiconizole
Subbed! Need this info for when I move into my home! Thank you! God bless.
Thank you, Mieven. I hope this and other videos will be valuable to you in the future 👍🏾
Thanks for the good information I can use to evaluate my lawn. From this I believe that my lawn has heat stress and because of the size of my lawn and lack of funds I will have to let it go. I will only get water provided by mother nature.
It's totally understandable. The good thing is now you know the difference between the 2. Have a blessed one, gjr 🙏🏾
Great info thanks again brother
Appreciate you, Allen 👍🏾
Any recommendations for someone in Canada? Hard to find here
For fungicide, thanks
Hello Denple, not at this moment but I will check around 😉
If the lawn is mostly green when it's long, but shows yellowing areas after cutting. And if you dig deep with your fingers and see yellow blades down deep. But the moisture meter says good, what might the problem be.
Should mention the lawn was immaculate, nice deep green and thick. Then we got 2 months of hot dry weather and a few days of heavy downpours followed by 90+ again. Started seeing signs of deep yellowing where the low spots are. Should also mention this lawn is only 3 years old over drainage stone with once was 4" to 6" of good top soil. Lawn has always looked thick and dark green. Lots of lime and ironite 2 times or more a season with the regular Scotts maintenance fertilizer and grub killer. I was told 2 weeks ago to stop watering and let lawn grow long. Said it's been too hot and then heavy rains. But it's showing signs of more yellowing.
I did a test section of dethatching at highest position and it thin it out and shows more of the deep yellowing below blades just above soil. Not sure if I should go all out and scarify and air rate or not. Any suggestions?
@bertpainter8385 Hello Bert. Your lawn will go back to looking good once these hot temperatures go away, but I need for you to do me a favor, though.
Do you know what your Ph of your lawn is? If not, don't apply any more lime until you do so. Lime raises your Ph, and if you're unsure what it is, you could be doing more harm than good.
As the temperatures cool down, start cutting your lawn a couple of notches lower and leave it there. For example, I cut my front lawn at 4 inches throughout the summer. In the fall, I normally will end up around 3 inches or 3.5 inches. Dethatching should be fine if you've already done it. Just fertilize it, water that in, and continue to mow. Don't worry about the yellowing near the soil. That's normal when you're cutting your high
@@PoloFieldsLawnService Thx for the quick response. Appreciate that. The PH is slightly above 6. It pretty much stays around that number even after I spread lime and let it soak in a few weeks there after. I also keep my lawn around 3.5 to 4" and mow at least 2 times a week on average depending on rain. This year once the hotter temps came I notice the deep green fading even after a dose of ironite. And then the yellowing started down low at 1st and later I could see it after mowing. No one else noticed it like I did until the past 3 weeks. It still looks good driving by, but I anal now that I got a taste of what lawn care can achieve. lol.
I plan on aerating the backyard this week and was thinking to do the same in the front, but I'm afraid to make a mess of a good thing. But all I read is it should be done at least once a year. I did scarifiy the backyard a few weeks ago, but realized it needs reseeding. So I'll do that after I aerate and fertilize. Using either Ammonia sulfate and/or Urea for that. Any suggestions on what I'm about to attempt. This is my 1st go round with dethatching, scarify and aeration. Going by what I've researched so far. I gravitated to your channel which made the most sense to me.
@bertpainter8385 Aerate, overseed ( if it's needed ) fertilize and then water. If your Ph is slightly above 6, don't use ammonium sulfate. That would just drop your Ph back down. Just use urea
Str8 Fire 🔥🔥🔥 We Workin 💪🏾🌱
We Workin 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Man I can’t tell you how much this has helped me!! I thought my lawn was going through heat stress and whole time it was fungus spreading. I have brown patch really bad late spring this year
I'm sorry to hear about that, Garry. I'm glad that you know the difference now, but now it's time to get a fungicide down to get that fungus out of your lawn.
Good video. My fescue is stressed to the max right now. Gotta start my watering 👍
If you start, keep it up 👍🏾
Awesome video fam just subscribed
Thanks Jay Gee, hope that you enjoy the other videos as well 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Really appreciate this video. Awesome info and thank you.
Thank you, Sir for viewing. Im glad you enjoyed the video and the information 👍🏾
Thank you!!!
You're welcome, Lynn 👍🏾
Very informative video. It's always good to break it down with visual differences.
Thank you, I try my best to do that on every video 👍🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService great job! 👍
@@fescueme1081 🙏🏾
👍👍😃😃
Thank you 👍🏾
👍👍
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Rite thur
😎
5:04 Those blades look to be "needling up" (ie thin) too and I don't see any blade spots, but I believe you are indicating that is from fungus. The criteria sounds easy to apply but it doesn't look that simple. Too bad you didn't take that example at 5:04 to show a closeup of the blade spots, cuz I don't see any.
Hello Vashon, that particular part of the video, I was specifically talking about fungus. If you rewind it, I was giving you different ways there would be a tell tell sign of a fungus. There will be some mycelium on the blades, spots on the blades, or the brown spots would be in a circle. In that part of the video, there were several brown spots in a circle. If it's damage from heat stress, the brown spots will be in irregular patterns, not perfectly shaped circles. Hope I explained it better for you to understand.
@@PoloFieldsLawnService That helps, thanks. I didn't realize the heat stress areas would not be circular. I got the other criteria.
@@vashon100 ✊🏾✊🏾✊🏾
🤩
We Workin 💪🏾 💪🏾 💪🏾
Thank you sir. Learned something.
Awesome, Glad I could help John 👍🏾
Great video. Thanks, helped me a lot.
Appreciate you, Bob 👍🏾
Awesome job explaining! I will now be following you!
Thank you, Mike. I appreciate you and hope I can share some knowledge with you on this lawn care journey. God Bless
A great explanation with examples. Your presentation was excellent and very much appreciated. Thank you.
Appreciate you Wes 👍🏾
Very helpful! Thank you!
You're welcome 👍🏾
Nice great 👍 info something to keep are eyes 👀 out for this summer
Yes Sirrrr Hp, Appreciate you man 💪🏾
I’m trying to learn and you are helping me. Thanks brother.
No problem, I'm glad I could help 👍🏾
Good video, however, I would love to see what possible over watering looks like. The tips of my two month old lawn are thatch colour. Also I have found a few mushrooms the last few mornings.
Hello Selina, no need to worry about the mushrooms. Sometimes mushrooms pop up where trees USE to be. A lawn that is water logged has a soggy look to it. You wouldn't want that because a fungus will follow, and the tips of your new grass are brown? Are you in a drought like how we are? This could be the reason for the tips. Please let me know when you can. Thanks
@@PoloFieldsLawnService Thanks for your prompt response. I’m on the west coast on Vancouver Island. The weather has been a mix of the mid to low twenties. It dropped down to 16 today. No heat wave yet. The sod was laid the 17th of April. Perhaps I could send you some images? It’s definitely not soggy. It was hard to get a shovel into the soil. However, it did appear damp.
@selinaserenelli153 So you're dealing with some tip burn from frost. There is no need to worry about that. Once it heats up, if it ever heats up 🙂 you'll cut that rip burn away
@@PoloFieldsLawnService I’m laughing out loud and I needed a laugh. Even though I’m in BC Canada it’s not frosty at all and for here it’s been a bit cooler in the last couple of days. We have had some warm days since mid May. I even got a sunburn last weekend. I have been watering every 2nd day since it warmed up. 🤣
@selinaserenelli153 Question: Why are you watering every 2 days? It's weird that your lawn doesn't have frost on it in the morning, and you're below freezing.
Dude, great video! Thanks for the advice!
Thanks Luke 👍🏾
Great info! Best video on this subject.
Appreciate you
Thank you C.J 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Thank you for this video
You're welcome, Angel 👍🏾
This was very good!
@NinosYoukhana Thank you, sir 👍🏾
Good Job. Thanks.
Your welcome Alston 👍🏾
Fantastic video
Thank you, Marcus 👍🏾
Very good info, thank you very much
Your welcome Mark 👍🏾
Really good explanation! Thank you for the vid. Keep up the good videos.
Thank you Will 👍🏾
not sure how I found ya, but was a great video for me to see today, ty sir
Thank you Mike, Glad you enjoyed the video Sir 👍🏾
fungus: soft, yellow. heat stress: stiff, yellow, smooth niddle.
Great video Polo! If I use azoxystrobin to treat melting out fungus do I apply it to the leaf or the soil?
Thanks JD, if the fungus is already present, apply the curative rate, spray the fungicide and leave it on the leaf blade.
Very good video!
@michaelperry4398 Thank you Micheal
You never disappoint!! That was a short video FULL of information!!
#WeWorkin💪🏾
🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾 THANK YOU Ms. Farrow
Thankyou sir
@@jamesreeves4259 your welcome
I believe my lawn is heat stress been watering twice a day for the past two months. It’s still brown😞 what would you suggest?
First, do you know what type of grass that you have?
Second, how long are you watering?
Third, the grass that your watering, does it look dead (brown) or is it still green with spots on the grass? blades?
Don’t know the grass type. I water between 15-20 minutes and it’s hay brown
@@bellpepperqueen Are you on Instagram? Facebook?
Facebook
@@bellpepperqueen Can me up on Facebook and send me some pictures? I need to see what thus lawn looks like, then u can make some recommendations if thats ok
To me it's just simple. Apply fungus control before early June then reapply in early July. You have to prevent the situation. Same with grub Control. Plus you need to water your lawn each week if there is no rain. One inch per week. Am I spot on? Cheers
SPOT ON BRODYGOALIE. It also depends on when you get disease pressure in your neck of the woods. Here it's NORMALLY around the first week in May. But generally speaking your spot on brother 👍🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService concerning fungus control. Do you prefer liquid sprayer or granular?? I assume the liquid sprayer is easier plus no concern of watering in the fungus control if you are using the liquid sprayer kind like Bayer bio advanced . Correct? The only concern I have with spraying is knowing that you be applied evenly on the lawn. But not having to be concerned using a rotary spreader is a good thing? Thanks for your help
@@brodygoalie I prefer a spray over a granular. If a fungus is active, the spray will hit it immediately vs a granular will have to be watered in and travel through the roots and up the crown of the plant before it circulates throughout the plant. Granulars are as effective as foliar, they just need to be applied BEFORE( as a preventative) the disease pressure arrives. You are right about the bio advanced as far as watering it in and don't worry if it's being applied evenly. Trust me, it's getting on that grass as long as you wet your entire lawn. DON'T RUSH though and watch the formula on the side of the bio advanced bottle to make sure your not running out before needed 👍🏾
You teaching, I'm learning. Facts right here. Thanks.
Preciate you 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Finally a video that I can understand thanks bro!!
No Problem Zonicboom 👍🏾
Something worth adding. Disease does not grow in a straight line. When problem areas are straight look at spreaders, sidewalks or other factors.
Your spot on Paul. Another example, Pythium Blight will follow mower tracks, water from a downspout, etc. Thanks for adding that Sir 👍🏾
Exactly what I needed to know.. great video, thanks!
No Problem Matt 👍🏾
Polo like all your subscribers you have a great channel. Pease!
Appreciate you Richcand THANK YOU for your support 🙏🏾
This video really helped me diagnose why I have brown spots. Thank you!
No problem Mike 👍🏾
you a smart dude.... im sure not first to mention....great content
Thank you, maestrozilla 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Thanks. Very good info.
Thank you Eric 💪🏾
Commenting for the algorithm. I appreciate the information. 👌
Appreciate you 👌🏾
Great video. Earned a sub for sure.
I have been trying to diagnose an issue where the lower part of my grass blades are brown/yellow and the upper section of the blade is green. It’s very frustrating. My grass looks nice and green but had a yellow/brown hue to it because of the grass color down below. Any suggestions on what I might be dealing with?
Thank you 👍🏾 What type of grass do you have and Is your grass like this all year around or just in the summer?
@briand27 Hello Brian and The cure that killz, don't worry about it. That's natural since your cutting it high at 3.5 Inches. The top blades are getting more sunlight than the bottom so its naturally gonna be brown. In the spring time when the grass is growing at 100 miles an hr, it may look different. Now if it had any spots on it or resembled something close to a fungus, then I would tell you to dethatch because you could have a fungus recycling in your thatch layer each year. Now if you cut it lower, the sun wouldn't have a problem getting to the lower parts of the plant. But I wouldn't worry about Sir. Hope this helps
Outstanding job! Best explanation I’ve seen yet!
Thank you Greg
Thank you! This was the info I needed
Your welcome Ms. Patterson 👍🏾
Thanks Polo! This video is very informative!
No Problem Ragman 👍🏾
Great info. You are a natural teacher!
Thank you, Kevin. I try my best 👌🏾
Beautiful lawn chief. Very informative. All lawn-guys need to know about common lawn disease is here.
thanks for the info brother
No problem, and THANK YOU for watching
Thanks again for sharing polo I’ll be paying closer attention to see which one it is and if I have either one.
There you go Ms Tucker ✊🏾 I'm glad this video is gonna help you be more aware in the lawn.
@@PoloFieldsLawnService yes it is very helpful all of your video are very helpful.
@@lynettetucker544 THANK YOU
Great video Polo
Thanks Rio 👍🏾