I ain’t going to even hold you. You’re a good dude. Most lawn care companies won’t explain this to a customer because on the low they don’t want the customer to figure it out on their own and take care of the matter themselves. They feel they’ll loose that customer as well as money. You just gained a subscriber mane.💪🏾
Preciate you, bro. They don't want the customer to know a LOT of stuff because if they do, they could lose money. I think a person would love that you're being up front with them. If they leave, they leave, but mist people will stay with you because you're telling the truth
Thank you, Chad, for checking the channel out. I try my best to make it as easy as possible for anyone to understand this lawncare thing. I appreciate your support 🙏🏾
Man I can’t tell you how much this has helped me!! I thought my lawn was going through heat stress and whole time it was fungus spreading. I have brown patch really bad late spring this year
I'm sorry to hear about that, Garry. I'm glad that you know the difference now, but now it's time to get a fungicide down to get that fungus out of your lawn.
Thanks for the good information I can use to evaluate my lawn. From this I believe that my lawn has heat stress and because of the size of my lawn and lack of funds I will have to let it go. I will only get water provided by mother nature.
Thank you Brother. Finally got the straight scoop on telling the difference between dry grass n fungus. Need to time-mark 5:50 to note those fungicide treatments. 🙏🏼 You are the man! (..thought our gardener brought it in from the other lawns!)
You do have to give your lawn water, but you don't have to bomb it with water to the point that you're making your water bill high. Remember, you need at least an inch of water per week( or close to it) to maintain that green color in your lawn. That inch can come from your sprinklers or from rain. Bottom line: If you don't water it, it'll turn brown and then bounce back when cooler Temps cycle back around. The question is, depending on where you live and if you have a cool season lawn, can you live with a brown lawn for 3-4 months, or however long it's hot in your area?
Had a beautiful stand.. very healthy and green till late June here in DC area. Anyway, let's not forget the need for Aeration so that water has a chance to soak in. Roots in search for water have to go deeper, but may not be able, expecially if you only have an inch of soil on top of clay. Looks like with some near brutal aeration (tow behind spike water filled aerator) with heavy watering may have resurrected my near dead lawn. Plugger Rental is a rip off.. I'd need it for several days. Took me a few cycles to break thru with a spike aerator, plus plugger gets plugged is a big maintenance problem. Some areas took Water/Aerate/Water/Aerate to get the spikes to penetrate. One area that was near concrete, I actually injected (a Root Fertilizer hose implement) water to break it up, and mix in some good soil. Will know in a couple weeks.. mid July here now. Looks greener already, but a ways to go. Last year was a total loss with this fancy over Hyped Fescue.. if it Dies, going Zoyzia.. best grass ever, but takes a few years (4 or 5) to fill in.
Bro, thank you for the video, my new lawn was so beautiful in the spring but this brutal summer heat caused it to yellow, now I can go out there and identify what the cause is, if I'm watering too much or not enough
so i have some heat stressed grass by your definition but it's nice size patches of it but grass is not sticking up - it's a bit matted in my view - is it salvageable ?
If the blades are thin with NO SPOTS on them, it's heat stressed. Stand those blades up by raking it and give it some water. It will turn back green with water. Now, if it has spots on the grass blades, don't give it any water. You need a fungicide. Stay tuned because I have a video coming out soon that talks all about heat stress. Hope this helps 🙏🏾
I always apply fungus control in June and July before fungus can happen. Same with grub control. Need to use as a preventative correct?? I also use YM stress blend granule fertilizer
@@PoloFieldsLawnService I am in Boston area so my first application in mid June then second application mid July. Grub control is first week of June. Pre emergent in mid April. We have kicked out in Boston area. It has Rained every week. Have not had to use sprinkler system this season. Last season 2022 just the opposite. We had no rain at all very little. My water bill was through the roof last year. This year free water!!
@brodygoalie It's been the same down here. I haven't had to use much water at all. We've been receiving a lot of rain each week up until now, which is normally our dry period of the year. But of course, dealing with fungus is an ongoing battle between May and October.
@@PoloFieldsLawnService I’m sure it will! Idk about your way but man we getting pretty dry here! Supposed to be in the upper 90’s all week 😓🤦🏻♂️ 100 today 🥵
Good video, however, I would love to see what possible over watering looks like. The tips of my two month old lawn are thatch colour. Also I have found a few mushrooms the last few mornings.
Hello Selina, no need to worry about the mushrooms. Sometimes mushrooms pop up where trees USE to be. A lawn that is water logged has a soggy look to it. You wouldn't want that because a fungus will follow, and the tips of your new grass are brown? Are you in a drought like how we are? This could be the reason for the tips. Please let me know when you can. Thanks
@@PoloFieldsLawnService Thanks for your prompt response. I’m on the west coast on Vancouver Island. The weather has been a mix of the mid to low twenties. It dropped down to 16 today. No heat wave yet. The sod was laid the 17th of April. Perhaps I could send you some images? It’s definitely not soggy. It was hard to get a shovel into the soil. However, it did appear damp.
@selinaserenelli153 So you're dealing with some tip burn from frost. There is no need to worry about that. Once it heats up, if it ever heats up 🙂 you'll cut that rip burn away
@@PoloFieldsLawnService I’m laughing out loud and I needed a laugh. Even though I’m in BC Canada it’s not frosty at all and for here it’s been a bit cooler in the last couple of days. We have had some warm days since mid May. I even got a sunburn last weekend. I have been watering every 2nd day since it warmed up. 🤣
@selinaserenelli153 Question: Why are you watering every 2 days? It's weird that your lawn doesn't have frost on it in the morning, and you're below freezing.
@kevinsweeney4106 No, I haven't, but if you're out there when they go to pee, if you have some water with you to rinse their pee off the grass blades, it shouldn't burn your grass
No Problem mysterious e. If your in the transition zone you will have several opportunities to sharpen your knowledge in knowing the difference between the 2. I'm glad this video has helped 🙏🏾
If the lawn is mostly green when it's long, but shows yellowing areas after cutting. And if you dig deep with your fingers and see yellow blades down deep. But the moisture meter says good, what might the problem be. Should mention the lawn was immaculate, nice deep green and thick. Then we got 2 months of hot dry weather and a few days of heavy downpours followed by 90+ again. Started seeing signs of deep yellowing where the low spots are. Should also mention this lawn is only 3 years old over drainage stone with once was 4" to 6" of good top soil. Lawn has always looked thick and dark green. Lots of lime and ironite 2 times or more a season with the regular Scotts maintenance fertilizer and grub killer. I was told 2 weeks ago to stop watering and let lawn grow long. Said it's been too hot and then heavy rains. But it's showing signs of more yellowing. I did a test section of dethatching at highest position and it thin it out and shows more of the deep yellowing below blades just above soil. Not sure if I should go all out and scarify and air rate or not. Any suggestions?
@bertpainter8385 Hello Bert. Your lawn will go back to looking good once these hot temperatures go away, but I need for you to do me a favor, though. Do you know what your Ph of your lawn is? If not, don't apply any more lime until you do so. Lime raises your Ph, and if you're unsure what it is, you could be doing more harm than good. As the temperatures cool down, start cutting your lawn a couple of notches lower and leave it there. For example, I cut my front lawn at 4 inches throughout the summer. In the fall, I normally will end up around 3 inches or 3.5 inches. Dethatching should be fine if you've already done it. Just fertilize it, water that in, and continue to mow. Don't worry about the yellowing near the soil. That's normal when you're cutting your high
@@PoloFieldsLawnService Thx for the quick response. Appreciate that. The PH is slightly above 6. It pretty much stays around that number even after I spread lime and let it soak in a few weeks there after. I also keep my lawn around 3.5 to 4" and mow at least 2 times a week on average depending on rain. This year once the hotter temps came I notice the deep green fading even after a dose of ironite. And then the yellowing started down low at 1st and later I could see it after mowing. No one else noticed it like I did until the past 3 weeks. It still looks good driving by, but I anal now that I got a taste of what lawn care can achieve. lol. I plan on aerating the backyard this week and was thinking to do the same in the front, but I'm afraid to make a mess of a good thing. But all I read is it should be done at least once a year. I did scarifiy the backyard a few weeks ago, but realized it needs reseeding. So I'll do that after I aerate and fertilize. Using either Ammonia sulfate and/or Urea for that. Any suggestions on what I'm about to attempt. This is my 1st go round with dethatching, scarify and aeration. Going by what I've researched so far. I gravitated to your channel which made the most sense to me.
@bertpainter8385 Aerate, overseed ( if it's needed ) fertilize and then water. If your Ph is slightly above 6, don't use ammonium sulfate. That would just drop your Ph back down. Just use urea
Good information. I had a lawn test last year and I have a problem with grey leaf spot, and brown patch. I have tttf in the transition zone. When should I start applying a fungicide? Is Propiconazole 14.3 and Headway G fungicide the best treatment? Thank you John
Depends on when you normally get hit with a fungus. We normally see fungus around the middle of May so I start with my applications at the beginning of May. I would use Cleary's 3336 to get rid the the brown patch and Leaf spot. You can use Headway and Propiconizole but thats what I would do. If that's all that you have, put down your headway BEFORE you get hit with a fungus. Water it in, wait 20-25 days before reapplying. Same with Propiconizole
@gazzelle4 Fungicide first. A fungus will spread quicker than heat stress. Just don't apply a fungicide where the heat stress is located. Once the fungus goes away, begin your watering to bounce your stressed lawn back. Just water early in the mornings.
To me it's just simple. Apply fungus control before early June then reapply in early July. You have to prevent the situation. Same with grub Control. Plus you need to water your lawn each week if there is no rain. One inch per week. Am I spot on? Cheers
SPOT ON BRODYGOALIE. It also depends on when you get disease pressure in your neck of the woods. Here it's NORMALLY around the first week in May. But generally speaking your spot on brother 👍🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService concerning fungus control. Do you prefer liquid sprayer or granular?? I assume the liquid sprayer is easier plus no concern of watering in the fungus control if you are using the liquid sprayer kind like Bayer bio advanced . Correct? The only concern I have with spraying is knowing that you be applied evenly on the lawn. But not having to be concerned using a rotary spreader is a good thing? Thanks for your help
@@brodygoalie I prefer a spray over a granular. If a fungus is active, the spray will hit it immediately vs a granular will have to be watered in and travel through the roots and up the crown of the plant before it circulates throughout the plant. Granulars are as effective as foliar, they just need to be applied BEFORE( as a preventative) the disease pressure arrives. You are right about the bio advanced as far as watering it in and don't worry if it's being applied evenly. Trust me, it's getting on that grass as long as you wet your entire lawn. DON'T RUSH though and watch the formula on the side of the bio advanced bottle to make sure your not running out before needed 👍🏾
If you are using azoxystrobin and propaconazole and don't have any fungus how much of each would you use for a 22,000sq ft yard? I'm only asking so I know what to use this summer. Thank you!
Hello Craig, My first question to you is have you ever dealt with fungus in your lawn before? If not, I don't recommend that you just start purchasing these products and putting them down on your lawn and you've never seen or had to battle with fungus. No need in spending your hard earned money on products for symptoms that you don't deal with if you understand what I mean. If you do deal with fungus, most fungus is going to require different rates depending on which one that you have in your lawn so make sure that you identify what fungus it is before you apply. When using any fungicide, it's best to treat it as a PREVENTATIVE so you would go down with the low rate when conditions are favorable. So for example, if you deal with Brown Patch, the low rate for Propiconizole 14.3 is 1oz per 1,000. For Azoxystrobin, the low rate is 0.38oz per 1,000. Now remember, different fungus may require different rates so read the label FIRST so you will know which rate to apply. I know this is a loaded answer but I hope this helps 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Bermuda Grass is tricky to detect if you have fungus because the grass blade is already thin. I don't see any spots in the blade or mycelium in the morning. Water that area intensely for 3 weeks. I have to do more research
@touchdown74 If you don't see any spots on the grass blades or the brown area isn't in a funny shape, direct line, circle or the grass isn't matted down by root rot, it most likely isn't a fungus. But there are other things that could make brown spots this time of the year besides heat. It could be insect damage, or maybe a dog took a leak in your lawn and created a brown spot. That's something that you would have to look at closer.
That means that the grass that was there is dead, and summer weeds are starting to grow in its place. Pull those weeds up and throw some seeds in those areas in the fall
Hello there, just wanted u to know the eagle 20 ew is working. Just been a week but I can tell. I do have another? Im.going.too put some talstar P on the lawn. Should this b watered in? Somewhat confused by the label. Thanks much!
Hello Susan, that's awesome about the eagle 20 and thanks for keeping me updated. As far as the Talstar P, no need to water it in. Just don't spray it down right before a rain.
@jmfitness1583 First, you shouldn't be watering at 5 pm. This could raise the risk of your grass blades remaining wet while you go into the night, and that could cause a disease or insect problem. Second, how long are you watering? I have a video that shows you how to water your lawn in the summer. 👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾 ua-cam.com/video/b0GfPxPpIVc/v-deo.htmlsi=yLUYNlFxgpKfmOpz If you have time, view that video above. Get back to me and let me know 👍🏾
☀Top notch video, Polo! Excellent job educating. 😎 I see a lot of Bermuda heat stress lately. You recommend any "stress blends" during the heat with low N?
Since Bermuda loves the heat you can definitely hit it with some low nitrogen to keep it green. A slow release fertilizer like Hybrix that has low N and a higher K will work excellent for these conditions
Polo!! You stay dropping lawn care gems 💎💎💎 Preciate you bro! You got me out hear sounding like an expert in my neighborhood 🤣🤣 #classisinsession #weworkin #teampolo
First, do you know what type of grass that you have? Second, how long are you watering? Third, the grass that your watering, does it look dead (brown) or is it still green with spots on the grass? blades?
@@bellpepperqueen Can me up on Facebook and send me some pictures? I need to see what thus lawn looks like, then u can make some recommendations if thats ok
Great video. Earned a sub for sure. I have been trying to diagnose an issue where the lower part of my grass blades are brown/yellow and the upper section of the blade is green. It’s very frustrating. My grass looks nice and green but had a yellow/brown hue to it because of the grass color down below. Any suggestions on what I might be dealing with?
@briand27 Hello Brian and The cure that killz, don't worry about it. That's natural since your cutting it high at 3.5 Inches. The top blades are getting more sunlight than the bottom so its naturally gonna be brown. In the spring time when the grass is growing at 100 miles an hr, it may look different. Now if it had any spots on it or resembled something close to a fungus, then I would tell you to dethatch because you could have a fungus recycling in your thatch layer each year. Now if you cut it lower, the sun wouldn't have a problem getting to the lower parts of the plant. But I wouldn't worry about Sir. Hope this helps
Whats up polo !! Hey so i put dwn a 7-0-20 yard mastery stress blend after my soil test came back!! This was 4 weeks ago it worker some what . Should i put dwn another round? Its a slow released fertilizer. My lawn just wont turn green lol fyi its a cool season lawn in southern cali . Idk if its a disease or just the hot weather !!
@yeremy7144 It's probably just hot weather. I would be careful when pushing your lawn with a lot of nitrogen during a stressful period. The best thing that you can do is water it and stay off of it. I cut mine once every 2 weeks now, and I haven't fertilized it in over a month
@yeremy7144 Yep, let it cool down a lil bit, bro. I know it's super hot over there. Tall Fescue wants to rest in the summer heat. You can apply nitrogen, but I wouldn't risk it. That's just my opinion. Now, if it was a Bermuda Lawn, that would be a different story
@@PoloFieldsLawnService thanks for info bro do you have an email ? Don’t know if you take emails i can snap some pics n send them to you just to to get your opinion regardless thxs
![BEST Lawn FUNGUS TREATMENT - [FUNGICIDE GETS RID of BROWN PATCHES on Lawn]](/img/n.gif)
Great info bro. Well explained and showing the difference. Hope many get to see this video. Knowledge is key.
Thanks Striperman, best way to get things out is Word of Mouth. Share it with your folks 👍🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService for reals, why grass be givin brown a bad name.
@@DugEphresh 😁
Polo dropping big brain knowledge on y’all, y’all need be listening.
💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Great info thanks again brother
Appreciate you, Allen 👍🏾
I’m trying to learn and you are helping me. Thanks brother.
No problem, I'm glad I could help 👍🏾
I ain’t going to even hold you. You’re a good dude. Most lawn care companies won’t explain this to a customer because on the low they don’t want the customer to figure it out on their own and take care of the matter themselves. They feel they’ll loose that customer as well as money. You just gained a subscriber mane.💪🏾
Preciate you, bro. They don't want the customer to know a LOT of stuff because if they do, they could lose money. I think a person would love that you're being up front with them. If they leave, they leave, but mist people will stay with you because you're telling the truth
@@PoloFieldsLawnServiceThat’s a FACT!💪🏾
Awesome job explaining! I will now be following you!
Thank you, Mike. I appreciate you and hope I can share some knowledge with you on this lawn care journey. God Bless
Really appreciate this video. Awesome info and thank you.
Thank you, Sir for viewing. Im glad you enjoyed the video and the information 👍🏾
You are right. Heat stress: would be better for soil inspection. Remove rocks from soil.
You're on it 👍🏾
Came across your channel by chance, but realized you did a great job explaining things in a digestible fashion. Keep up the great work, Polo!
Thank you, Chad, for checking the channel out. I try my best to make it as easy as possible for anyone to understand this lawncare thing. I appreciate your support 🙏🏾
Great video quality information and much needed. Really appreciate info thanks.
Appreciate you 👍🏾
Nice great 👍 info something to keep are eyes 👀 out for this summer
Yes Sirrrr Hp, Appreciate you man 💪🏾
Great video. Thanks, helped me a lot.
Appreciate you, Bob 👍🏾
Most valuable information, this really helped me. Best video on the topic I have ever seen (and I am OLD)
Thanks John, I'm glad it has helped you 👍🏾
Great info. You are a natural teacher!
Thank you, Kevin. I try my best 👌🏾
Thanks best explanation and info I've seen on heat vs fungus.
Thanks Focused Media 😎
Fantastic video
Thank you, Marcus 👍🏾
You’re an excellent teacher… Thank you!!!
@angelotodaro1475 Thank you, Angelo. I try my best 👌🏾
Man I can’t tell you how much this has helped me!! I thought my lawn was going through heat stress and whole time it was fungus spreading. I have brown patch really bad late spring this year
I'm sorry to hear about that, Garry. I'm glad that you know the difference now, but now it's time to get a fungicide down to get that fungus out of your lawn.
not sure how I found ya, but was a great video for me to see today, ty sir
Thank you Mike, Glad you enjoyed the video Sir 👍🏾
Thanks for the good information I can use to evaluate my lawn. From this I believe that my lawn has heat stress and because of the size of my lawn and lack of funds I will have to let it go. I will only get water provided by mother nature.
It's totally understandable. The good thing is now you know the difference between the 2. Have a blessed one, gjr 🙏🏾
Finally a video that I can understand thanks bro!!
No Problem Zonicboom 👍🏾
Thank you!!!
You're welcome, Lynn 👍🏾
Good Job. Thanks.
Your welcome Alston 👍🏾
Very informative video. It's always good to break it down with visual differences.
Thank you, I try my best to do that on every video 👍🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService great job! 👍
@@fescueme1081 🙏🏾
You never disappoint!! That was a short video FULL of information!!
#WeWorkin💪🏾
🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾 THANK YOU Ms. Farrow
Good video. My fescue is stressed to the max right now. Gotta start my watering 👍
If you start, keep it up 👍🏾
Str8 Fire 🔥🔥🔥 We Workin 💪🏾🌱
We Workin 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Thank you Brother. Finally got the straight scoop on telling the difference between dry grass n fungus. Need to time-mark 5:50 to note those fungicide treatments. 🙏🏼 You are the man!
(..thought our gardener brought it in from the other lawns!)
@@hblee88 You're welcome 👍🏾
Great info! Best video on this subject.
Appreciate you
Thank you C.J 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
You teaching, I'm learning. Facts right here. Thanks.
Preciate you 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
great video. thanks
Your welcome 🙏🏾
Great video. Very informative, and really appreciate you adding the photos.
No problem 👌🏾
Awesome video! Tks!!
No problem, Leeroy, thanks for tuning in
A great explanation with examples. Your presentation was excellent and very much appreciated. Thank you.
Appreciate you Wes 👍🏾
Very well explained. Thank you!
Your welcome 👍🏾
Very good info, thank you very much
Your welcome Mark 👍🏾
Thank you sir. Learned something.
Awesome, Glad I could help John 👍🏾
This video really helped me diagnose why I have brown spots. Thank you!
No problem Mike 👍🏾
Dude, great video! Thanks for the advice!
Thanks Luke 👍🏾
Straight to the point thanks Polo!!!
@loufrank-8688 No problem 👍🏾
Thanks Polo! This video is very informative!
No Problem Ragman 👍🏾
Well said. Keep it coming!
Thank you lysawy82 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Thank you! This was the info I needed
Your welcome Ms. Patterson 👍🏾
Heat Stress? Isn't watering the lawn continuously until it comes back healthy going to be quite costly if you on a water meter?
You do have to give your lawn water, but you don't have to bomb it with water to the point that you're making your water bill high. Remember, you need at least an inch of water per week( or close to it) to maintain that green color in your lawn. That inch can come from your sprinklers or from rain. Bottom line: If you don't water it, it'll turn brown and then bounce back when cooler Temps cycle back around. The question is, depending on where you live and if you have a cool season lawn, can you live with a brown lawn for 3-4 months, or however long it's hot in your area?
Thank you for the knowledge. I'm in the grass industry and I didn't know that about heat stress!
🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾 Gald that I could help you Joe
Had a beautiful stand.. very healthy and green till late June here in DC area. Anyway, let's not forget the need for Aeration so that water has a chance to soak in. Roots in search for water have to go deeper, but may not be able, expecially if you only have an inch of soil on top of clay. Looks like with some near brutal aeration (tow behind spike water filled aerator) with heavy watering may have resurrected my near dead lawn. Plugger Rental is a rip off.. I'd need it for several days. Took me a few cycles to break thru with a spike aerator, plus plugger gets plugged is a big maintenance problem. Some areas took Water/Aerate/Water/Aerate to get the spikes to penetrate. One area that was near concrete, I actually injected (a Root Fertilizer hose implement) water to break it up, and mix in some good soil. Will know in a couple weeks.. mid July here now. Looks greener already, but a ways to go. Last year was a total loss with this fancy over Hyped Fescue.. if it Dies, going Zoyzia.. best grass ever, but takes a few years (4 or 5) to fill in.
@@markhall3434 If you can grow zoysia up in the DC area, go for it 👍🏾
Really good explanation! Thank you for the vid. Keep up the good videos.
Thank you Will 👍🏾
Great video, can you show the difference between a fungus and grub damage? I mistook grub damage for a fungus late last summer. Big mistake!
If I run across some grub damage...... I will. Thank you, Gary 👍🏾
Outstanding job! Best explanation I’ve seen yet!
Thank you Greg
Thanks again for sharing polo I’ll be paying closer attention to see which one it is and if I have either one.
There you go Ms Tucker ✊🏾 I'm glad this video is gonna help you be more aware in the lawn.
@@PoloFieldsLawnService yes it is very helpful all of your video are very helpful.
@@lynettetucker544 THANK YOU
Awesome info, will brown patch or heat stress recover ?
Yes Sirrrr, Heat Stress will recover with Consistent water. Brown Patch will recover with a fungicide.
Bro, thank you for the video, my new lawn was so beautiful in the spring but this brutal summer heat caused it to yellow, now I can go out there and identify what the cause is, if I'm watering too much or not enough
That's awesome, man. I'm glad this video gave you the knowledge for the future 💯
Beautiful lawn chief. Very informative. All lawn-guys need to know about common lawn disease is here.
thanks for the info brother
No problem, and THANK YOU for watching
Thank you so much! I was worried I had fungus and used diseaseX by Scott’s, and still had large brown areas. Used your info, mu lawn is heat stressed
God bless you, Robert. I'm glad this video helped you 👍🏾
Awesome video fam just subscribed
Thanks Jay Gee, hope that you enjoy the other videos as well 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
I’m fighting both of them itches….👍🏾🌴
😆😆😆 Double edge sword down there 🙏🏾🙏🏾👇🏾
so i have some heat stressed grass by your definition but it's nice size patches of it but grass is not sticking up - it's a bit matted in my view - is it salvageable ?
If the blades are thin with NO SPOTS on them, it's heat stressed. Stand those blades up by raking it and give it some water. It will turn back green with water. Now, if it has spots on the grass blades, don't give it any water. You need a fungicide. Stay tuned because I have a video coming out soon that talks all about heat stress. Hope this helps 🙏🏾
Great video Polo
Thanks Rio 👍🏾
I always apply fungus control in June and July before fungus can happen. Same with grub control. Need to use as a preventative correct?? I also use YM stress blend granule fertilizer
You're on it. It's best if you prevent fungus vs.correcting it. It also depends on where you live. Our pressure where I live normally hits us in May.
@@PoloFieldsLawnService I am in Boston area so my first application in mid June then second application mid July. Grub control is first week of June. Pre emergent in mid April. We have kicked out in Boston area. It has Rained every week. Have not had to use sprinkler system this season. Last season 2022 just the opposite. We had no rain at all very little. My water bill was through the roof last year. This year free water!!
@brodygoalie It's been the same down here. I haven't had to use much water at all. We've been receiving a lot of rain each week up until now, which is normally our dry period of the year. But of course, dealing with fungus is an ongoing battle between May and October.
Dropping straight knowledge on y’all!!
Great video bro!!
Thanks Jacob, I hope this video helps people 🙏🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService I’m sure it will!
Idk about your way but man we getting pretty dry here!
Supposed to be in the upper 90’s all week 😓🤦🏻♂️
100 today 🥵
@@jacobmcgee4849 Same here bro, upper 90's all week. High Humidity making it feel like it's 110°-115°🥵 NO RAIN IN SIGHT
@@PoloFieldsLawnService yep man same here
@@jacobmcgee4849 Stay cool out there. Deep and FREQUENT watering 😆😆😆
Good video, however, I would love to see what possible over watering looks like. The tips of my two month old lawn are thatch colour. Also I have found a few mushrooms the last few mornings.
Hello Selina, no need to worry about the mushrooms. Sometimes mushrooms pop up where trees USE to be. A lawn that is water logged has a soggy look to it. You wouldn't want that because a fungus will follow, and the tips of your new grass are brown? Are you in a drought like how we are? This could be the reason for the tips. Please let me know when you can. Thanks
@@PoloFieldsLawnService Thanks for your prompt response. I’m on the west coast on Vancouver Island. The weather has been a mix of the mid to low twenties. It dropped down to 16 today. No heat wave yet. The sod was laid the 17th of April. Perhaps I could send you some images? It’s definitely not soggy. It was hard to get a shovel into the soil. However, it did appear damp.
@selinaserenelli153 So you're dealing with some tip burn from frost. There is no need to worry about that. Once it heats up, if it ever heats up 🙂 you'll cut that rip burn away
@@PoloFieldsLawnService I’m laughing out loud and I needed a laugh. Even though I’m in BC Canada it’s not frosty at all and for here it’s been a bit cooler in the last couple of days. We have had some warm days since mid May. I even got a sunburn last weekend. I have been watering every 2nd day since it warmed up. 🤣
@selinaserenelli153 Question: Why are you watering every 2 days? It's weird that your lawn doesn't have frost on it in the morning, and you're below freezing.
Exactly what I needed to know.. great video, thanks!
No Problem Matt 👍🏾
Simple as can be. Thanks, buddy.
No problem Kevin 👍🏾
Have you by chance done a video on caring for female dog pee on cool weather lawns (fescue).
@kevinsweeney4106 No, I haven't, but if you're out there when they go to pee, if you have some water with you to rinse their pee off the grass blades, it shouldn't burn your grass
Thank you great video
No Problem Neilpro 👍🏾
Good video! Thanks! From the Transition Zone ...
No Problem mysterious e. If your in the transition zone you will have several opportunities to sharpen your knowledge in knowing the difference between the 2. I'm glad this video has helped 🙏🏾
Thanks. Very good info.
Thank you Eric 💪🏾
Excellent, thank you. I understand now.
Your welcome 👍🏾
Thanks for the info!
No Problem Mark 👍🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService always appreciative
Subbed! Need this info for when I move into my home! Thank you! God bless.
Thank you, Mieven. I hope this and other videos will be valuable to you in the future 👍🏾
Commenting for the algorithm. I appreciate the information. 👌
Appreciate you 👌🏾
If the lawn is mostly green when it's long, but shows yellowing areas after cutting. And if you dig deep with your fingers and see yellow blades down deep. But the moisture meter says good, what might the problem be.
Should mention the lawn was immaculate, nice deep green and thick. Then we got 2 months of hot dry weather and a few days of heavy downpours followed by 90+ again. Started seeing signs of deep yellowing where the low spots are. Should also mention this lawn is only 3 years old over drainage stone with once was 4" to 6" of good top soil. Lawn has always looked thick and dark green. Lots of lime and ironite 2 times or more a season with the regular Scotts maintenance fertilizer and grub killer. I was told 2 weeks ago to stop watering and let lawn grow long. Said it's been too hot and then heavy rains. But it's showing signs of more yellowing.
I did a test section of dethatching at highest position and it thin it out and shows more of the deep yellowing below blades just above soil. Not sure if I should go all out and scarify and air rate or not. Any suggestions?
@bertpainter8385 Hello Bert. Your lawn will go back to looking good once these hot temperatures go away, but I need for you to do me a favor, though.
Do you know what your Ph of your lawn is? If not, don't apply any more lime until you do so. Lime raises your Ph, and if you're unsure what it is, you could be doing more harm than good.
As the temperatures cool down, start cutting your lawn a couple of notches lower and leave it there. For example, I cut my front lawn at 4 inches throughout the summer. In the fall, I normally will end up around 3 inches or 3.5 inches. Dethatching should be fine if you've already done it. Just fertilize it, water that in, and continue to mow. Don't worry about the yellowing near the soil. That's normal when you're cutting your high
@@PoloFieldsLawnService Thx for the quick response. Appreciate that. The PH is slightly above 6. It pretty much stays around that number even after I spread lime and let it soak in a few weeks there after. I also keep my lawn around 3.5 to 4" and mow at least 2 times a week on average depending on rain. This year once the hotter temps came I notice the deep green fading even after a dose of ironite. And then the yellowing started down low at 1st and later I could see it after mowing. No one else noticed it like I did until the past 3 weeks. It still looks good driving by, but I anal now that I got a taste of what lawn care can achieve. lol.
I plan on aerating the backyard this week and was thinking to do the same in the front, but I'm afraid to make a mess of a good thing. But all I read is it should be done at least once a year. I did scarifiy the backyard a few weeks ago, but realized it needs reseeding. So I'll do that after I aerate and fertilize. Using either Ammonia sulfate and/or Urea for that. Any suggestions on what I'm about to attempt. This is my 1st go round with dethatching, scarify and aeration. Going by what I've researched so far. I gravitated to your channel which made the most sense to me.
@bertpainter8385 Aerate, overseed ( if it's needed ) fertilize and then water. If your Ph is slightly above 6, don't use ammonium sulfate. That would just drop your Ph back down. Just use urea
Is there way to tell the difference of grub damage v heat stress?
Sorry for the late reply Ryan. If its insect damage, you would be able to pull the dead grass up easily with no struggle
Very helpful! Thank you!
You're welcome 👍🏾
Thank you for this video
You're welcome, Angel 👍🏾
Awesome info!
Thanks Steve 💪🏾
Good information. I had a lawn test last year and I have a problem with grey leaf spot, and brown patch. I have tttf in the transition zone. When should I start applying a fungicide? Is Propiconazole 14.3 and Headway G fungicide the best treatment? Thank you John
Depends on when you normally get hit with a fungus. We normally see fungus around the middle of May so I start with my applications at the beginning of May. I would use Cleary's 3336 to get rid the the brown patch and Leaf spot. You can use Headway and Propiconizole but thats what I would do. If that's all that you have, put down your headway BEFORE you get hit with a fungus. Water it in, wait 20-25 days before reapplying. Same with Propiconizole
This was very good!
@NinosYoukhana Thank you, sir 👍🏾
So what if you're battling both? If I water more for the heat stress, I'll make the fungus problem worse. What should I attack first?
@gazzelle4 Fungicide first. A fungus will spread quicker than heat stress. Just don't apply a fungicide where the heat stress is located. Once the fungus goes away, begin your watering to bounce your stressed lawn back. Just water early in the mornings.
To me it's just simple. Apply fungus control before early June then reapply in early July. You have to prevent the situation. Same with grub Control. Plus you need to water your lawn each week if there is no rain. One inch per week. Am I spot on? Cheers
SPOT ON BRODYGOALIE. It also depends on when you get disease pressure in your neck of the woods. Here it's NORMALLY around the first week in May. But generally speaking your spot on brother 👍🏾
@@PoloFieldsLawnService concerning fungus control. Do you prefer liquid sprayer or granular?? I assume the liquid sprayer is easier plus no concern of watering in the fungus control if you are using the liquid sprayer kind like Bayer bio advanced . Correct? The only concern I have with spraying is knowing that you be applied evenly on the lawn. But not having to be concerned using a rotary spreader is a good thing? Thanks for your help
@@brodygoalie I prefer a spray over a granular. If a fungus is active, the spray will hit it immediately vs a granular will have to be watered in and travel through the roots and up the crown of the plant before it circulates throughout the plant. Granulars are as effective as foliar, they just need to be applied BEFORE( as a preventative) the disease pressure arrives. You are right about the bio advanced as far as watering it in and don't worry if it's being applied evenly. Trust me, it's getting on that grass as long as you wet your entire lawn. DON'T RUSH though and watch the formula on the side of the bio advanced bottle to make sure your not running out before needed 👍🏾
Man thanks for the info as always👊
No Problem Fabian, glad that I could help ✊🏾
If you are using azoxystrobin and propaconazole and don't have any fungus how much of each would you use for a 22,000sq ft yard? I'm only asking so I know what to use this summer. Thank you!
Hello Craig, My first question to you is have you ever dealt with fungus in your lawn before? If not, I don't recommend that you just start purchasing these products and putting them down on your lawn and you've never seen or had to battle with fungus. No need in spending your hard earned money on products for symptoms that you don't deal with if you understand what I mean. If you do deal with fungus, most fungus is going to require different rates depending on which one that you have in your lawn so make sure that you identify what fungus it is before you apply. When using any fungicide, it's best to treat it as a PREVENTATIVE so you would go down with the low rate when conditions are favorable. So for example, if you deal with Brown Patch, the low rate for Propiconizole 14.3 is 1oz per 1,000. For Azoxystrobin, the low rate is 0.38oz per 1,000. Now remember, different fungus may require different rates so read the label FIRST so you will know which rate to apply. I know this is a loaded answer but I hope this helps 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Thanks so much for your help!
@@chrissmith4793 No problem
Bermuda Grass is tricky to detect if you have fungus because the grass blade is already thin. I don't see any spots in the blade or mycelium in the morning. Water that area intensely for 3 weeks. I have to do more research
@touchdown74 If you don't see any spots on the grass blades or the brown area isn't in a funny shape, direct line, circle or the grass isn't matted down by root rot, it most likely isn't a fungus. But there are other things that could make brown spots this time of the year besides heat. It could be insect damage, or maybe a dog took a leak in your lawn and created a brown spot. That's something that you would have to look at closer.
you a smart dude.... im sure not first to mention....great content
Thank you, maestrozilla 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
What’s it mean if I put down fungicide and some brown patches are turn green however now weeds are appearing that weren’t there before
That means that the grass that was there is dead, and summer weeds are starting to grow in its place. Pull those weeds up and throw some seeds in those areas in the fall
@@PoloFieldsLawnService thanks!
Something worth adding. Disease does not grow in a straight line. When problem areas are straight look at spreaders, sidewalks or other factors.
Your spot on Paul. Another example, Pythium Blight will follow mower tracks, water from a downspout, etc. Thanks for adding that Sir 👍🏾
PERFECTION Great Video
Thanks nipper 👍🏾
Hello there, just wanted u to know the eagle 20 ew is working. Just been a week but I can tell. I do have another? Im.going.too put some talstar P on the lawn. Should this b watered in? Somewhat confused by the label. Thanks much!
Hello Susan, that's awesome about the eagle 20 and thanks for keeping me updated. As far as the Talstar P, no need to water it in. Just don't spray it down right before a rain.
@@PoloFieldsLawnService thank u much
Excellent
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
My grass also has heat stress. I have my irrigation running 2 times per day. 4am and 5pm. Is that too much or too little?
@jmfitness1583 First, you shouldn't be watering at 5 pm. This could raise the risk of your grass blades remaining wet while you go into the night, and that could cause a disease or insect problem.
Second, how long are you watering?
I have a video that shows you how to water your lawn in the summer.
👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾👇🏾
ua-cam.com/video/b0GfPxPpIVc/v-deo.htmlsi=yLUYNlFxgpKfmOpz
If you have time, view that video above. Get back to me and let me know 👍🏾
NICE!
Thanks!
Preciate you Big 🐻
Great video Polo! If I use azoxystrobin to treat melting out fungus do I apply it to the leaf or the soil?
Thanks JD, if the fungus is already present, apply the curative rate, spray the fungicide and leave it on the leaf blade.
Very good video!
@michaelperry4398 Thank you Micheal
Any recommendations for someone in Canada? Hard to find here
For fungicide, thanks
Hello Denple, not at this moment but I will check around 😉
☀Top notch video, Polo! Excellent job educating. 😎 I see a lot of Bermuda heat stress lately. You recommend any "stress blends" during the heat with low N?
Since Bermuda loves the heat you can definitely hit it with some low nitrogen to keep it green. A slow release fertilizer like Hybrix that has low N and a higher K will work excellent for these conditions
Polo!! You stay dropping lawn care gems 💎💎💎 Preciate you bro! You got me out hear sounding like an expert in my neighborhood 🤣🤣 #classisinsession #weworkin #teampolo
😆😆 Pass that information to the neighbors 💪🏾💪🏾 Thanks again On The Lawn. #Weworkin
Good stuff!
Thanks Nathan 💪🏾
I believe my lawn is heat stress been watering twice a day for the past two months. It’s still brown😞 what would you suggest?
First, do you know what type of grass that you have?
Second, how long are you watering?
Third, the grass that your watering, does it look dead (brown) or is it still green with spots on the grass? blades?
Don’t know the grass type. I water between 15-20 minutes and it’s hay brown
@@bellpepperqueen Are you on Instagram? Facebook?
Facebook
@@bellpepperqueen Can me up on Facebook and send me some pictures? I need to see what thus lawn looks like, then u can make some recommendations if thats ok
GM sir.
Good Mow-nin Super 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Great video. Earned a sub for sure.
I have been trying to diagnose an issue where the lower part of my grass blades are brown/yellow and the upper section of the blade is green. It’s very frustrating. My grass looks nice and green but had a yellow/brown hue to it because of the grass color down below. Any suggestions on what I might be dealing with?
Thank you 👍🏾 What type of grass do you have and Is your grass like this all year around or just in the summer?
@briand27 Hello Brian and The cure that killz, don't worry about it. That's natural since your cutting it high at 3.5 Inches. The top blades are getting more sunlight than the bottom so its naturally gonna be brown. In the spring time when the grass is growing at 100 miles an hr, it may look different. Now if it had any spots on it or resembled something close to a fungus, then I would tell you to dethatch because you could have a fungus recycling in your thatch layer each year. Now if you cut it lower, the sun wouldn't have a problem getting to the lower parts of the plant. But I wouldn't worry about Sir. Hope this helps
Whats up polo !! Hey so i put dwn a 7-0-20 yard mastery stress blend after my soil test came back!! This was 4 weeks ago it worker some what . Should i put dwn another round? Its a slow released fertilizer. My lawn just wont turn green lol fyi its a cool season lawn in southern cali . Idk if its a disease or just the hot weather !!
@yeremy7144 It's probably just hot weather. I would be careful when pushing your lawn with a lot of nitrogen during a stressful period. The best thing that you can do is water it and stay off of it. I cut mine once every 2 weeks now, and I haven't fertilized it in over a month
@@PoloFieldsLawnService thanks for the info i will fertilized at End of summer
@yeremy7144 Yep, let it cool down a lil bit, bro. I know it's super hot over there. Tall Fescue wants to rest in the summer heat. You can apply nitrogen, but I wouldn't risk it. That's just my opinion.
Now, if it was a Bermuda Lawn, that would be a different story
@@PoloFieldsLawnService thanks for info bro do you have an email ? Don’t know if you take emails i can snap some pics n send them to you just to to get your opinion regardless thxs