Thanks for watching yall! I hope this video helped you understand how to use the dealer tool and plastic gauge. Let me know if you have any questions. Buy me a coffee to help support my videos. www.buymeacoffee.com/Cornped
Thanks! They are hard to make. This one was like 5 filming sessions and hard tk edit. It forgot where I'm at in the video. Haha but I'll keep em coming!
Instead of using a nut at: 6:50 couldn't you use a drift or perhaps even a big slotted screwdriver with the shank through the piston side of the connecting rod, to stabilize the crank shaft in order to apply torque to the crank? Thanks for the content. Keep up the good work. בס'ד
Its great. Have needed to know how to torque things down after changing pucks. This helps a lot. Do you think a chain whip would work like your output shaft holder? @Corn-ped
Im assuming you by now have this running. I actually just finished rebuilding my first za50. When its idleing on the kickstand does the tire on this spin on its own or is my clutch messed up somewhere?
Hey Cornped, thanks for the great videos! My question is, when you removed the return spring from the engaging plate, the case side of the spring sat in that groove at about 4 o'clock, but when in this video you placed it in that lower nook directly below the tabs it sat in when you opened it. Most other videos have position it where you did in this video. Hope that makes sense, thanks again!
Thanks, I have been watching this build from the start and have a few questions. I see you went with solid bearings as opposed to the spec 2 part OEM ones outlined by the manual. Did you have to have the case machined to custom fit? Crankshaft? You stated you had issues with finding one that was good. What about having the original crank rebuilt with new rod? Thoughts on this. Who rebuilds cranks that is any good? With your kit are you shooting for top end speed or torque transferred with gearing. The ZA is an amazing motor. I have only played with them for a year, but I am hooked. Thanks...
@@Corn-ped I hope you take the Puch Maxi za50 engine that you rebuilt and make a video of a test drive...that'd be cool sir! Also, can you rebuild a za50 motor for me?
Thanks for watching yall! I hope this video helped you understand how to use the dealer tool and plastic gauge. Let me know if you have any questions.
Buy me a coffee to help support my videos. www.buymeacoffee.com/Cornped
Loving the longer episodes! Keep em coming
Thanks! They are hard to make. This one was like 5 filming sessions and hard tk edit. It forgot where I'm at in the video. Haha but I'll keep em coming!
Instead of using a nut at: 6:50 couldn't you use a drift or perhaps even a big slotted screwdriver with the shank through the piston side of the connecting rod, to stabilize the crank shaft in order to apply torque to the crank?
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
yes you totally could.
Ayye!! I was waiting for this part! Thank you!!!
awesome! Let me know how you like it!
Its great. Have needed to know how to torque things down after changing pucks. This helps a lot. Do you think a chain whip would work like your output shaft holder? @Corn-ped
Yeah you could totally use a chain whip! @@goseanproductions
@@Corn-ped 🙏🙏
Very good. Thank you.
Great job like always cornped strong 💪 keep up the great work ur have the best explanation video out here on youtube always clean work no half step in
Thank you for the support!
Im assuming you by now have this running. I actually just finished rebuilding my first za50. When its idleing on the kickstand does the tire on this spin on its own or is my clutch messed up somewhere?
Hey Cornped, thanks for the great videos! My question is, when you removed the return spring from the engaging plate, the case side of the spring sat in that groove at about 4 o'clock, but when in this video you placed it in that lower nook directly below the tabs it sat in when you opened it. Most other videos have position it where you did in this video. Hope that makes sense, thanks again!
Very different from the old 4 speed engines, interesting
Haha yeah it is
How do you know if your old 1st and 2nd speeds are still good ? And if not are they repairable?
Is the gasket thickness too negligible to be accounted for in the shim measurement?
No. You have to take the gasket thickness into account!
Those white pucks your supposed to sand down a top and bottom so its more ovalnot just smash em in.
Lol woops!
@Corn-ped i doubtit actually matters really just wanted to point it out.
Thanks, I have been watching this build from the start and have a few questions. I see you went with solid bearings as opposed to the spec 2 part OEM ones outlined by the manual. Did you have to have the case machined to custom fit? Crankshaft? You stated you had issues with finding one that was good. What about having the original crank rebuilt with new rod? Thoughts on this. Who rebuilds cranks that is any good? With your kit are you shooting for top end speed or torque transferred with gearing. The ZA is an amazing motor. I have only played with them for a year, but I am hooked. Thanks...
In you post I see you have a blue Peugeot 103, I have a green one.
Are there certain Puch za50 parts that are impossible to get?
Ehhh not really. You might have to find some stuff used. But it's all available
@@Corn-ped I hope you take the Puch Maxi za50 engine that you rebuilt and make a video of a test drive...that'd be cool sir! Also, can you rebuild a za50 motor for me?
I just made a video of me jetting the engine and riding it. ua-cam.com/video/PgTqDWn_3qo/v-deo.html
Those clutch "pucks" are actually pronounced poock
I thought it was like pought