Could you please make a video about SLI/Crossfire on your X399 TaichiM utilizing the top and the bottom vs. the top and middle PCIe x16 slots. The Ceberus case has 5 PCIe slots. I dont know which cards are available to you but I'd love to see that!
So stop at 1:50 I have watched a livestream last Sunday with Roman Der8auer. And hes said aftert all his test he has the conclusion that after Aluminium Copper is the 2cend bad thing to apply LM to. I watches by my MacBook Pro self that the Copper will get a verry ruff layer that is hard to get away. And Nickel platet are one the slowest reaction with it and so it is the best. But in every layer like Copper Nicel or the die iteself will get slowly penetratet by this kind of cooling solution. And now play to watch the rest.
In theory you should be able to fit a 140mm fan with 120mm mounting on that heatsink. I'd love to see it confirmed! (Cryorig has a slim 13mm 140mm fan with such mounting.)
You obviously shouldn't even consider this unless you've already done delidding + LM. This would be to reduce the temp by a couple of degrees in addition to the 20 or w/e drop you already got from delidding. And I still don't think it's worth it, at all. Just stick with good paste between the IHS and cooler, and use LM between the die and IHS.
@@FaiyaRay you don't risk the mobo whatsoever lol you're meant to take the cpu out to delid so it's not affected, the way this guy applied liquid metal on the top of processor was more dangerous
i used IC graphite, drastically easier than youd think, and though its also electrically conductive, it fits perfectly over the die so it wont short anything, and gives the same benefits as LM
shmoaeel alksraney you’re supposed to put the liquid metal on the motherboard pins/contacts to improve conductivity and allow the cpu to slot in easily
Minor performance increase with huge increase in risk of screwing up something (spilling, making undesirable contact... etc) stick to thermal paste folks.
Haha my shitbox Core 2 Extreme doesnt even go above 45°C idle and its around 50-60°C while playing for hours and I'm using a no name white silicone thermal paste...
@@iHD01 Normal gaming with factory clocks you dont even need any paste. But when you start to oc things your cpu gets hot as fuck so u need all cooling what you can get.
@@xeiiio It isn't the same on laptop, those chips on laptop basically are delidded hence throwing LM on it makes sense. My Y700 runs 25°c cooler when using LM on processor and GPU.
Having recently delidded and liquid metalled an old 4th Gen CPU for practice I have to say you are brave using it between the ihs and cooler. That stuff is a pain to clean up!
I watched man vids I use nail polish from overclocker UK to cover the smds then I coat the die generously then re attach IHS putting in socket then lock it in place for about 10-20 sec take cpu out take the IHS off add LM to match die on IHS Has helped alot on 9900KS CPUs.
3:49 - shouldn't you have cleaned the top of the ihs first. it looks like it is still covered in regular thermal paste?!?! i use the arctic cleaning kit, but 99% ISO would have helped.
It was clean. What you see is what was already on the nozzle of the tube of conductonaut (applied before filming), hence why it looks like LM and not paste on the IHS.
I think you'd see a bigger difference if you used liquid metal under the ihs as well as above being that they use thermal paste on both sides from factory, hence why stock it runs in the 70's instead of lower. I'd love to see this comparison with a high end ryzen or threadripper with a soldered ihs and larger heat output like you said.
Ok I get the awesome camera angles comparison, but clean? What are you watching, amish porn where they do it through a sheet? I guess there's a niche for everyone.
I had done Liquid Metal application (the same Thermal Grizzley used in this video) on my Macbook Pro with copper heatsink and after 1.5 years of usage it hardened. It gave me amazing thermal while it worked, but I just can't recommend this to anyone after the experience. I couldn't scrape it off, so I tried to level it as much as I can and applied thermal paste over it and now it still works again, but it was quite a trouble.
The thing you couldn't scrape off is actually an alloy formed between liquid metal and copper by the way and it's not going to affect the thermal cooling so don't worry about it
It's because the IHS has enough contact surface area unlike the CPU die, it's not the bottleneck. Put it on the die will result in 20 degrees temperture drop because thats where the bottleneck is. You can achieve 5GHz under 70 degrees with a cheap air cooler, and it's pretty easy. Unfortunatlly it is much harder in 9th gen CPU because they are soldered, somehow the solder doesn't help with heat transfer as they expected, resulting in 9th gen CPUs still running very hot, and they are much more difficult to delid. I think I had enough of Intel.......it'
It does help with heat transfer. My 9700k can hit 5.3ghz and gets similar if not lower temps as my 8086k did after delidding and adding Conductonaut on the die and on top the ihs and cold plate. The 9900k is just a power hungry heat producer. The solder isn't perfect but it definitely works better than the stock paste they we're using before. Much better
@@SidewaysShadow Of course it's better than the paste, but it shoud be even better than LM. Some reviewers think it's because the solder is too thick, and the silicon is much thicker than 8th gen, maybe have 8 cores running at almost 5GHz in a such a small package is just too much.
@@oscarshen6855 I understand what you are saying and the die and the solder are both too thick and causing a higher temp than they should be able to achieve. But my 9700k runs great for me. 30c idle, 40c-60c depending on the game & prime95 maxes out in the 80c-84c range. At 5.3ghz ~ 1.44v , 0-50% Silent Fan & Pump profile on Swiftech H320x2 Prestige AIO cooler. Can get much better temps if I decide to use a fan & pump profile higher than silent mode. But having a silent PC than doesn't go over a barely audible hum at 5.3ghz all while staying cool, is very pleasant to me.
@@bradhaines3142 My tower alone was around $1900 with the prices I got on everything. Here my PCPartPicker of my entire setup. But the most the deals I got aren't applied, just current prices. My build is the Green Boblin parts list on this link. pcpartpicker.com/user/TheShadow721/saved/#view=FkBxrH
last week i upgrade my processor, from an i5 6600k to an i7 7700k that i bought from second hand, the cooler was/is a Cooler master Geminii M5 ( 50mm in height without fan and 60mm with fan). The i5 6600k was already delidded two years ago with thermal Grizzly metallic compound installed inside the cpu, temperature dropped then from 85ºC to 65ºC, this time from an stock i7 7700k to a delidded 7700k with metallic compound and rockitcool 115% size copper ihs temperature drops from 100ºC with 33% thermal throttling to 81ºC without any thermal throttling. Note that Cooler Master´s Geminii M5 has visible aluminium beetween heatpipes so i only can apply the metal compound between silicium core die and its ihs, not between ihs and the heatsink. Again 20 degrees drop. I have done this many times before, if you can apply metallic compound on both sides of the ihs sometimes the temperatures can reach a brutal drop up to -40ºC (i7 4790k from 95ºC to 55ºC). Proved. Liquid metal results are much better when is applied directly under the heatspreader than over it. It is more complicated, but worths the time and money, specially on tiny cases.
Thanks for making this video, i'm looking to build a new PC in the near future and this convinced me that a good thermal paste (since I don't/won't de-lid the CPU) is really the safer way to go as there's not really much to be gained from using LM on say a 3600X (maybe XT) or a 3700X between the cooler and the processor. It does make me wonder why chip manufacturers don't invest in better stock thermal compounds for their CPU dies from the factory. at the bulk quantity they'd use, i'm sure they'd get a really good discount for the quantity they'd need and more importantly it would probably allow them to get better numbers for base/boost clock or voltage, which is always good.
I’m more of a showman case wise but I see the beauty in a small form factor for those that want it. I subbed btw because I like your style - keep up the good work and well done
On your road to 100k subscribers. You are a good example of someone focusing on a niche and talking about topics in detail that other channels don't. Gratz!
I've used liquid metal between the heat sink and/or CPU or GPU in several laptops. I noticed a significant difference in temperatures under load over the stock thermal paste. For a couple laptops the difference was 10-11 degrees C. Before applying the liquid metal, I coated the areas around the CPU or GPU with a thin layer of clear nail polish that didn't have anything in it harmful to plastics.
I've used thermal grizzly liquid metal for deliding for years and have switched back to using kryonaut now as it isn't worth the trouble. One and done And it never had to be replaced. It seems to me that after a year or so the liquid metal starts to move or disappear. Especially when the cpu is vertially oriented like my delided 8086k with a larger copper ihs. Kryonaut under and above the ihs works great. Luckily nearly every good cpu nowadays is soldered again and that really is a good solution.
I delidded my 8700k years ago and applied conductonaut. Haven't had to change it once in like ~5 years. Temps are nearly the same as when I first did it.
Dealing with liquid metal for a while now, I can tell you that a micro drop of this stuff (that you can't even see) will ruin your motherboard, or damage some memory slots, because it is liquid, and liquid goes through cracks, even if it looks kind of in a bubble at first. I ruined my motherboard as it drifted into the socket. Direct contact with a cpu/gpu die and liquid metal brings results of about 10-15 Celsius, all the way up to 20 if you are lucky. If you apply cpu ihs to the heatsink you are going to get 5-8 Celsius difference, with a high risk of ruining your CPU and motherboard, potentially taking your GPU and memory with that sinking ship. In short...FUCK...that....shit. Okay? Thank you, and good night, everybody :)
So if you've delt with lm for a while then you likely wouldn't fuckitupitos like you did. There is only 2 possiblities - applying incorrect amount and on just one surface and lack of very reliable hand eye coordination. Takes expertise indeed
IMO you should clean the IHS 100%, and also apply nail polish, or you can find all kind of other insulating materials online. Just use SOMETHING to protect metal contacts around the CPU, etc.
I usually don't leave comments on videos, but now I feel like I need to: Liquid Metal is good only when you know the paste between the IHS and the CPU Die is actually conducting heat very well, which usually in Intel CPUs they don't (at least these new ones). Yes, deliding the CPU and applying Liquid Metal between the CPU and IHS then applying Liquid Metal between the IHS and the cooler will deffinetly improve the temps, but don't expect something miraculous, best case scenario would be 10C difference which would be actually very nice. However, I don't like how you applied the Liquid Metal. Indeed, you covered the entire area of the CPU IHS, but moving the hand like that is enough to throw a small droplet of Liquid Metal somewhere on the motherboard without you even noticing. Best use small, delicate hand movement when applying this thermal solution. What I also did not liked was that your system seems to have the CPU in a straight position. You definetly not want to leave the Liquid Metal a very long time there, since it can drip from between the IHS and Cooler, leading it on the motherboard. At room temperature, liquid metal is more viscous and cannot slip so well due to the surface tension. However, like any other substance, when heated becomes more "liquid" and will be less viscous, making it more likely to slip from under the Cooler. Best case to use Liquid Metal is when placing the motherboard down, not in a vertical way like most PC cases are made to mount the motherboard on them. So take care, this is not a hate comment or something to discourage anyone or to show myself that I know a lot about this stuff, I am also still learning like everybody else, but definetly take a lot of precautions before applying this interface. Yes, it's very good but can lead easily to a dead system. And for people who would say that I don't know anything about liquid metal, I have 2 and a half years of applying liquid metal in laptops. And trust me, in a laptop is very easy to break it with Liquid Metal. Cheers!
Short Answer : Absolutely worth it !! I applied it on my laptop and now the thermals don't cross 75° C.. previously it used to touch 98° C with the usual thermal paste during gaming/heavy tasks. It's been months and performance/thermals are holding up really good so far.
If I've got a build coming up, might as well use it Don't think id hassle reapplying conductonaut if my temps were alright already. Great content as always!
I saw a JayzTwoCents video where he lapped the Intel IHS and used normal paste on it and that had a pretty decent effect on thermals. The reason is because Intel's IHS's are slightly dome shaped instead of completely flat like AMD's. By lapping it, it had better contact with the cooler's plate. Maybe try that and see what results you get with the LM.
i have the i9 9900k and use it mostly for gaming, without the LM had 75-ish degrees after LM 45-50 degrees and idle 38 degrees (fans not on max speed, with full speed hit even a low as 24 degrees idle with overclock)
Without delidding, it is not worth it. When delidded and liquid metal put between the IHS and the core, you will see a big improvement. This also goes for notebooks/laptops, where no IHS on the CPU is used. For my ITX build inside DAN SFX A4, I have actually delidded the CPU and did not use IHS at all. The main hurdle here is to remove the LGA brace (metal frame holding the CPU) and adapt the mounting mechanism for the missing height of the CPU core. Then you will have the right thing - my trusty i7 4790k works at 4.4GHz@1.2V without throttling under only Noctua L9i (92mm fan cooler).
@Advocatus Diaboliwell I think it shouldnt make that much of a difference because where the LM is great is spreding the heat from the Die to all the ihs, making it much easier to dissipate. But since the cooler is generally the size of the IHS you may not see that big of a leap in performance... And there is a HUGE problem: most AiO coolers have a bare copper bottom, and the LM will destroy the copper
@Advocatus Diaboli CPU die is not electrically conductive - the ceramic silicate material, which is the shiny dark grey package we see when we delid our cpus, is already isolated. This alone leads to the conclusion, you cannot conduct any electricity to the CPU block. Further more, fluid used inside AIOs is never water alone - it is in most cases glycole (alcohol) based liquid, maybe mixed with distilled water in certain amount, but that is also not conductive. Heck, even pure water is NOT conductive! Water starts conducting electricity when inpurities are dissolved in it. But still, the water is not nearly as conductive as many think, not even the water out of your bathroom or kitchen. Have had much experience with liquid cooling back in the day when I started with thermaltake bigwater cooling system. Had a leak onto my GPU, GPU started showing some artifacts and it was only then I saw already dried CPU coolant on the PCB. I washed it away with alcohol, GPU functioned without any problems. EK full custom loop, had a leak on the CPU block all over mainboard, PC was running a bit hot, I knew something is not right, so I was stunned when I saw a small waterfall down the mainboard over the GPU - my inlet barb on CPU block was not screwed in correctly. Turned off, wiped coolant, let it dry, put back together, booted and functioned without any problems.
I've actually been curious regarding the longevity of liquid metal. Even when you apply the head room of overclocking, what can we expect on the replacement time frame for liquid metal?
One tip for all when spreading liquid metal. First put a small drop on, then spread it as if you're wiping it off with a lint-free tissue (paper towel works too). Then add it on and spread like normal - it becomes very easy.
I gotta say I heard my grandmother in your video. At 2:02 when you pulled the fan out by the wires and not the base, shed always yell at me for doing it to our vacuum plugs that way too. Never took it to heart till I unplug a fan on the fan control board by wires and it all slid right apart lol
i'm thinking on using thermal pads so i don't have to mess around cleaning all that thermal paste again, but still, it's not a thing i do every day so..
Hey, you seem to know about using this stuff. Question: I've installed maybe 12 CPU's in my life. So I'm probly a beginner. Is using this Conductonaut something that I should avoid? Like is it probly beyond my capability to apply and install?
I wouldn't bother with the expense and drawbacks of liquid metal, unless I'm delidding a CPU, which is not something I have ever done or realistically need to do. The only alternative cooling option I would seriously consider for mainstream use would be thermal pads, which probably need a few more years of development before they are effective replacements.
I saw an improvement of 4-5 Degrees, but it's such a pain to apply compared to regular thermal paste. I spent 20 mins removing the tiny droplets that got onto my mobo.
The issue with liquid metal is that it can easily saturate the heatsink. The heatsink can only output so much heat at a time. If there is more heat going into the heatsink then out, you're going to saturate the heatsink and have similar performance to paste that conducts heat to the heatsink at the same rate that the heatsink dissipates it
You should test this for laptops, even though I don't think I've ever seen a laptop on your channel. This stuff is magic for anything that thermal throttles. I added it to my laptop CPU and GPU, 20 degrees Celsius drop on both, which was amazing considering I was running at 99 on CPU and 80 on GPU before. They don't go over 80/60 now at all.
it entirely depends on the laptop sadly. some just have a weak system entirely and cant do the job no matter what you put on it. i did it for mine, results were disapointing
Are you going to check out IC's Graphite Thermal Pad and Thermal Grizzly's upcoming Carbonaut? They're both are marketed as an alternative to thermal paste by how easy they are to apply (or drop) on to the processor. Would love to see you compare and review them!
On the GN video with Der8aur? Der8our? Der8y. They pretty much say the carbonaut is not as good as the Kryonaut paste but more of a near infinite lifespan instead of something that would be changed out every year or so like pastes. A trade off between effectiveness vs convenience.
@@zoomzabba452 i use it on my laptop so i dont worry about it gooping around. glad i switched it out since the paste on the gpu already slopped a circle around the square when i went to replace it
Short answer. Yes! 5-7 C difference on CPU and GPU. Ryzen 2700x w/ Noctua D15 and GTX 1080ti w/ Raijintek Morpheus II - This is the difference compared to Nocua NT-H1 - I recommend using 3M Scotch 33+ electrical tape around the GPU die.
It would have been great if u could do low profile productivity itx case for programming, deep learning so on without rgb crap etc. Love your vids btw keep up the good work.
Everyone knows graphite thermal pads are worse than even thermal paste and generally used as a longetivity perspective so that it does not have to be replaced in a year or two. There is no point of using it in sff builds as sff builders usually know what they are doing and are likely to replace the thermal paste every when required for that performance and noise benefit
@@BITVedanshAgarwal graphite pads dont need to be replaced at all. they never degrade. but der 8auer will release crabonaut pads which will be similar but have better temps.
@@BITVedanshAgarwal no its not. i used thermal pads myself and theyre great. theres a measure for thermal conductivity that all pastes (and LM and pads) are rated at and the pads i used (IC graphite) were as good as some LM, but easier to apply than any paste and less hazardous
Here is the real question, how long did you let the thermal paste cure for? The thermal paste curing process can take from a week to 3 months to see real world results and changes over time.
You know what we did back in the days? We took Arctic Silver, applied a thin layer to the core with a credit card (thinner than hair, thinner than paper). Then people got lazy and started putting a blob or an X of arctic (silver or mx) but they put too much in order to spread itself everywhere on the CPU die. And after so many years or R&D that would make silver non-conducting, some one had the brilliant idea to use a 100% conductive and corrosive liquid as thermal paste that would REQUIRE to be thoroughly spread on the CPU. Guess what... if you carefully spread a thin layer of arctic silver 5 or kryanot, it will be as effective as your carcinogenic and extremely toxic liquid metal.
Imagine they made a cpu that had a built in heatsink so there is no gap between the lid and heatsink, which would negate the need for thermal paste... Then just add in whatever fan you want to use on the heatsink. Would this work out?
I'm not too concerned that this liquid is conductive, but is it runny enough that it would somehow escape from between the cpu and cooler and gets dripped on the gpu overtime?
4:07 "Do make sure it's not an aluminium cold plate otherwise there will be a chemical reaction." Sooooo, is it just pure gallium then or some sort of alloy of gallium?
Direct die mounted cooler. Hope the back bracket fits. Thats the ultimate sff in my opinion. If you look at laptops cpu and gpu, they are all direct die mounted. Sff nowadays are approaching laptop levels of compactness with much more powerful hardware.
I believe the threadripper uses a IHS that is soldered to the die so i would NOT attempt a delid and the gains would be negligible or actually worse than stock
If that Rajintek cooler has an aluminum block around those heat pipes and the Thermal Grizzly Liquid metal has Gallium in it, you cannot use them together.
They in theory have huge thermal transfer compared to regular thermal paste but fall short in term of C° , they're still extremely useful thanks to their usability !
@@Test-yl6jp esp in reviews terms with test benches, just dont usevthe thermal grissley ones I've seen reviews they tear easily and get stuck on ihs so much for being a better improved reusable product der8aur developed
Could you review the nzxt h200i I think it’s an interesting case for mini itx builds and I believe the “smart” hub actually has a use in this case compared to the other atx ones because it can be used as a fan hub as some mini itx motherboards don’t have many fan headers
I have this case.. its awesone for small case.. the airflow for this case is superb myte.. how ever.. you are planing to buy rtx card.. i dont know if can fit those cards on the case.. i have asus strix 1080.. planing to buy rtx 2080 ti in the future.. but its seem there will be a problem on the thickness height of those rtx card.. just keep in mind
I've done some research on those "big" ITX cases. I do really like the aesthetics and build quality of the case. But the GPU clearence between PSU schroud and coolers kills it for me. Thats why i am planning on buying the fractal design nano S. in combination with an SFX PSU makes the GPU clearence a lot better. If only i could remove the PSU shroud of the H200, then it'd be an instant buy. BTW, that fanhub is shiit. just buy a regular fan hub. watch somereviews of that case on Gamers Nexus (they reviewed the H700?)
I'm all for the Kryonaut paste. Definitely the best on the market objectively and no problem using it in critical environment like GPU die. Definitely worth it.
I actually don't think it would make a significant difference with threadripper, as threadripper is well able to compensate its higher TDP with the larger surface area of the IHS. In other words, the heat is more spread out.
Always fun to re-visit liquid metal under certain settings.
Tonne of GPU content lined up next week - stay tuned!
can you do a thermal paste and liquid metal mixed
Could you please make a video about SLI/Crossfire on your X399 TaichiM utilizing the top and the bottom vs. the top and middle PCIe x16 slots. The Ceberus case has 5 PCIe slots. I dont know which cards are available to you but I'd love to see that!
Any chance you can do a video with a short gpu in the ghost s1 and a SFF AIO behind the power supply ??
So stop at 1:50
I have watched a livestream last Sunday with Roman Der8auer.
And hes said aftert all his test he has the conclusion that after Aluminium Copper is the 2cend bad thing to apply LM to.
I watches by my MacBook Pro self that the Copper will get a verry ruff layer that is hard to get away.
And Nickel platet are one the slowest reaction with it and so it is the best. But in every layer like Copper Nicel or the die iteself will get slowly penetratet by this kind of cooling solution.
And now play to watch the rest.
In theory you should be able to fit a 140mm fan with 120mm mounting on that heatsink. I'd love to see it confirmed! (Cryorig has a slim 13mm 140mm fan with such mounting.)
Considering the hassle of applying liquid metal properly, the gains are negligible. Delidding + LM makes more sense.
Also the risk of accidentally destroying your mobo
You obviously shouldn't even consider this unless you've already done delidding + LM. This would be to reduce the temp by a couple of degrees in addition to the 20 or w/e drop you already got from delidding. And I still don't think it's worth it, at all. Just stick with good paste between the IHS and cooler, and use LM between the die and IHS.
@@FaiyaRay you don't risk the mobo whatsoever lol you're meant to take the cpu out to delid so it's not affected, the way this guy applied liquid metal on the top of processor was more dangerous
i used IC graphite, drastically easier than youd think, and though its also electrically conductive, it fits perfectly over the die so it wont short anything, and gives the same benefits as LM
@@bradhaines3142 i have this aswell its also reusable and last long?!?!?!?
U were supposed to use a SWISS ARMY KNIFE that probably has a screw driver😂😂😂😂😂😂
Ayy LMAO
Hopefully!
yes and screw with confidence.
Take the brick and hammer in the brace before you open the clasp in the bracket so that it doesn't shortcircuit the board and you.
verge of destroying your pc.
before even starting to watch this, THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO I'VE BEEN WONDERING ABOUT THE SAME
GoodGuyGaurav linus did this like 600 years ago
Don't shout.
@@olivierl2172 I DO WHAT I WANT.
@@MrKZdemos ah well, must've missed it
@@GoodGuyGaurav AH WELL, MUST'VE MISSED IT
so stupid everyone knows you have to put it on the motherboard pins.
shmoaeel alksraney you’re supposed to put the liquid metal on the motherboard pins/contacts to improve conductivity and allow the cpu to slot in easily
@@chikennuget3634 yeah also the temperature is going to get 40 degrees c lower because the motherboard starts absorbing the heat then am i right?
@@mariocelic5622 yeah computer run on full load for 3 hours at 34c degrees.
Btw don't take us seriously if anyone reading this and thinking to do it XD.
Putting LM directly on the pins is the best way to make sure your temps never gets higher than room temperature... If, that’s what your aiming for...
Minor performance increase with huge increase in risk of screwing up something (spilling, making undesirable contact... etc) stick to thermal paste folks.
Haha my shitbox Core 2 Extreme doesnt even go above 45°C idle and its around 50-60°C while playing for hours and I'm using a no name white silicone thermal paste...
@@iHD01 Normal gaming with factory clocks you dont even need any paste. But when you start to oc things your cpu gets hot as fuck so u need all cooling what you can get.
I just watched a video with Linus showing a 20 degree difference with liquid metal ftw
@@xeiiio It isn't the same on laptop, those chips on laptop basically are delidded hence throwing LM on it makes sense. My Y700 runs 25°c cooler when using LM on processor and GPU.
That's why i chose noctua nh1 xD
I absolutely love the editing and I really appreciate the cuts and cinematography made in all your videos.
Thank you for everything you do!
Production just getting tighter and tighter. Thanks for not making this into a LotR 30 minute epic, and for avoiding clickbait titles
Having recently delidded and liquid metalled an old 4th Gen CPU for practice I have to say you are brave using it between the ihs and cooler. That stuff is a pain to clean up!
I watched man vids I use nail polish from overclocker UK to cover the smds then I coat the die generously then re attach IHS putting in socket then lock it in place for about 10-20 sec take cpu out take the IHS off add LM to match die on IHS Has helped alot on 9900KS CPUs.
Nice work looking forward to seeing this channel blow up, the production quality is awesome, great B roll :)
Your CPU will blow up if you are not careful. That **** is electrically conductive.
3:49 - shouldn't you have cleaned the top of the ihs first. it looks like it is still covered in regular thermal paste?!?! i use the arctic cleaning kit, but 99% ISO would have helped.
I have been looking for anyone else who noticed that. No wonder it made such a small difference.
It was clean. What you see is what was already on the nozzle of the tube of conductonaut (applied before filming), hence why it looks like LM and not paste on the IHS.
99% ia and coffee filter as the abrasive works awesomely and leaves 0 lint or dust
I think you'd see a bigger difference if you used liquid metal under the ihs as well as above being that they use thermal paste on both sides from factory, hence why stock it runs in the 70's instead of lower. I'd love to see this comparison with a high end ryzen or threadripper with a soldered ihs and larger heat output like you said.
Who is here after PS5 teardown ?
ME hahaha
Same
LOL
shutupshutupshutup
🙋♂️😀
Considering the risk of shorting, the gains minimal, dont bother
It's quite hard to short something unless you spill it over the edges. I've used liquid metal on many graphics cards and CPUs with no problem.
It's worth it if your not clumsh
Your Videos are like Tech-Porn, really clean, awesome camera angels and shots and on top of this nice music! Love it!
WTF
Ok I get the awesome camera angles comparison, but clean? What are you watching, amish porn where they do it through a sheet? I guess there's a niche for everyone.
I had done Liquid Metal application (the same Thermal Grizzley used in this video) on my Macbook Pro with copper heatsink and after 1.5 years of usage it hardened. It gave me amazing thermal while it worked, but I just can't recommend this to anyone after the experience. I couldn't scrape it off, so I tried to level it as much as I can and applied thermal paste over it and now it still works again, but it was quite a trouble.
The thing you couldn't scrape off is actually an alloy formed between liquid metal and copper by the way and it's not going to affect the thermal cooling so don't worry about it
It's because the IHS has enough contact surface area unlike the CPU die, it's not the bottleneck. Put it on the die will result in 20 degrees temperture drop because thats where the bottleneck is. You can achieve 5GHz under 70 degrees with a cheap air cooler, and it's pretty easy. Unfortunatlly it is much harder in 9th gen CPU because they are soldered, somehow the solder doesn't help with heat transfer as they expected, resulting in 9th gen CPUs still running very hot, and they are much more difficult to delid. I think I had enough of Intel.......it'
It does help with heat transfer. My 9700k can hit 5.3ghz and gets similar if not lower temps as my 8086k did after delidding and adding Conductonaut on the die and on top the ihs and cold plate. The 9900k is just a power hungry heat producer. The solder isn't perfect but it definitely works better than the stock paste they we're using before. Much better
@@SidewaysShadow Of course it's better than the paste, but it shoud be even better than LM. Some reviewers think it's because the solder is too thick, and the silicon is much thicker than 8th gen, maybe have 8 cores running at almost 5GHz in a such a small package is just too much.
@@oscarshen6855 I understand what you are saying and the die and the solder are both too thick and causing a higher temp than they should be able to achieve. But my 9700k runs great for me. 30c idle, 40c-60c depending on the game & prime95 maxes out in the 80c-84c range. At 5.3ghz ~ 1.44v , 0-50% Silent Fan & Pump profile on Swiftech H320x2 Prestige AIO cooler. Can get much better temps if I decide to use a fan & pump profile higher than silent mode. But having a silent PC than doesn't go over a barely audible hum at 5.3ghz all while staying cool, is very pleasant to me.
@@SidewaysShadow sounds like you have the type of setup (i intend to go AMD though) i like.
how much did your rig cost total?
@@bradhaines3142 My tower alone was around $1900 with the prices I got on everything. Here my PCPartPicker of my entire setup. But the most the deals I got aren't applied, just current prices. My build is the Green Boblin parts list on this link. pcpartpicker.com/user/TheShadow721/saved/#view=FkBxrH
last week i upgrade my processor, from an i5 6600k to an i7 7700k that i bought from second hand, the cooler was/is a Cooler master Geminii M5 ( 50mm in height without fan and 60mm with fan). The i5 6600k was already delidded two years ago with thermal Grizzly metallic compound installed inside the cpu, temperature dropped then from 85ºC to 65ºC, this time from an stock i7 7700k to a delidded 7700k with metallic compound and rockitcool 115% size copper ihs temperature drops from 100ºC with 33% thermal throttling to 81ºC without any thermal throttling. Note that Cooler Master´s Geminii M5 has visible aluminium beetween heatpipes so i only can apply the metal compound between silicium core die and its ihs, not between ihs and the heatsink. Again 20 degrees drop. I have done this many times before, if you can apply metallic compound on both sides of the ihs sometimes the temperatures can reach a brutal drop up to -40ºC (i7 4790k from 95ºC to 55ºC). Proved. Liquid metal results are much better when is applied directly under the heatspreader than over it. It is more complicated, but worths the time and money, specially on tiny cases.
Nice essay kid
My 4770k goes from 85 down to 55
Thanks for making this video, i'm looking to build a new PC in the near future and this convinced me that a good thermal paste (since I don't/won't de-lid the CPU) is really the safer way to go as there's not really much to be gained from using LM on say a 3600X (maybe XT) or a 3700X between the cooler and the processor.
It does make me wonder why chip manufacturers don't invest in better stock thermal compounds for their CPU dies from the factory. at the bulk quantity they'd use, i'm sure they'd get a really good discount for the quantity they'd need and more importantly it would probably allow them to get better numbers for base/boost clock or voltage, which is always good.
I’m more of a showman case wise but I see the beauty in a small form factor for those that want it.
I subbed btw because I like your style - keep up the good work and well done
On your road to 100k subscribers. You are a good example of someone focusing on a niche and talking about topics in detail that other channels don't. Gratz!
I've used liquid metal between the heat sink and/or CPU or GPU in several laptops. I noticed a significant difference in temperatures under load over the stock thermal paste. For a couple laptops the difference was 10-11 degrees C. Before applying the liquid metal, I coated the areas around the CPU or GPU with a thin layer of clear nail polish that didn't have anything in it harmful to plastics.
Blue painters tape and conformal coating are your friends. The nail polish can flake after enough heat cycling and board flex laptops endure.
it's good at the start but liquid metal react with copper an aluminium
My goodness, I am never using this shite again. It splattered everywhere and messed up my CPU and Motherboard.
lmao
sounds like a messy situation was it hot?
...assuming you tried to apply it like normal paste? yeah don't do that, haha
@@aarinlowe5484 you double meaning joke maker stop
I've used thermal grizzly liquid metal for deliding for years and have switched back to using kryonaut now as it isn't worth the trouble. One and done And it never had to be replaced. It seems to me that after a year or so the liquid metal starts to move or disappear. Especially when the cpu is vertially oriented like my delided 8086k with a larger copper ihs. Kryonaut under and above the ihs works great. Luckily nearly every good cpu nowadays is soldered again and that really is a good solution.
I delidded my 8700k years ago and applied conductonaut. Haven't had to change it once in like ~5 years. Temps are nearly the same as when I first did it.
Dealing with liquid metal for a while now, I can tell you that a micro drop of this stuff (that you can't even see) will ruin your motherboard, or damage some memory slots, because it is liquid, and liquid goes through cracks, even if it looks kind of in a bubble at first. I ruined my motherboard as it drifted into the socket. Direct contact with a cpu/gpu die and liquid metal brings results of about 10-15 Celsius, all the way up to 20 if you are lucky. If you apply cpu ihs to the heatsink you are going to get 5-8 Celsius difference, with a high risk of ruining your CPU and motherboard, potentially taking your GPU and memory with that sinking ship.
In short...FUCK...that....shit. Okay? Thank you, and good night, everybody :)
So if you've delt with lm for a while then you likely wouldn't fuckitupitos like you did. There is only 2 possiblities - applying incorrect amount and on just one surface and lack of very reliable hand eye coordination. Takes expertise indeed
This video has the better cam takes and video editing of the chanel so far. Amazing
IMO you should clean the IHS 100%, and also apply nail polish, or you can find all kind of other insulating materials online. Just use SOMETHING to protect metal contacts around the CPU, etc.
One of the best Tech channels on UA-cam. Concise wording, calm talking, scientific testing, clean filming. It's really great.
scientific testing.... yes.... gallium wont erode or damage the copper in any way....
I usually don't leave comments on videos, but now I feel like I need to: Liquid Metal is good only when you know the paste between the IHS and the CPU Die is actually conducting heat very well, which usually in Intel CPUs they don't (at least these new ones). Yes, deliding the CPU and applying Liquid Metal between the CPU and IHS then applying Liquid Metal between the IHS and the cooler will deffinetly improve the temps, but don't expect something miraculous, best case scenario would be 10C difference which would be actually very nice.
However, I don't like how you applied the Liquid Metal. Indeed, you covered the entire area of the CPU IHS, but moving the hand like that is enough to throw a small droplet of Liquid Metal somewhere on the motherboard without you even noticing. Best use small, delicate hand movement when applying this thermal solution. What I also did not liked was that your system seems to have the CPU in a straight position. You definetly not want to leave the Liquid Metal a very long time there, since it can drip from between the IHS and Cooler, leading it on the motherboard. At room temperature, liquid metal is more viscous and cannot slip so well due to the surface tension. However, like any other substance, when heated becomes more "liquid" and will be less viscous, making it more likely to slip from under the Cooler. Best case to use Liquid Metal is when placing the motherboard down, not in a vertical way like most PC cases are made to mount the motherboard on them.
So take care, this is not a hate comment or something to discourage anyone or to show myself that I know a lot about this stuff, I am also still learning like everybody else, but definetly take a lot of precautions before applying this interface. Yes, it's very good but can lead easily to a dead system. And for people who would say that I don't know anything about liquid metal, I have 2 and a half years of applying liquid metal in laptops. And trust me, in a laptop is very easy to break it with Liquid Metal.
Cheers!
0:57 thermal paste vs liquid metal
3:49 applying a pinhead
Short Answer : Absolutely worth it !!
I applied it on my laptop and now the thermals don't cross 75° C.. previously it used to touch 98° C with the usual thermal paste during gaming/heavy tasks. It's been months and performance/thermals are holding up really good so far.
If you want to see him review NFC s4m hit the like!!!
@obs1dian thanks
If I've got a build coming up, might as well use it
Don't think id hassle reapplying conductonaut if my temps were alright already.
Great content as always!
Great vid dude. Been wondering about this topic myself. Thanks for the info on how it works.
I saw a JayzTwoCents video where he lapped the Intel IHS and used normal paste on it and that had a pretty decent effect on thermals. The reason is because Intel's IHS's are slightly dome shaped instead of completely flat like AMD's. By lapping it, it had better contact with the cooler's plate. Maybe try that and see what results you get with the LM.
Nice shots, dude. Awesome Content! 👍
let me guess ... you're here after watching the ps5 teardown
Lol you guessed it
yes
Lol!!😂😂
How did you know! lol!
I literally got this video recommended lol
i have the i9 9900k and use it mostly for gaming, without the LM had 75-ish degrees after LM 45-50 degrees and idle 38 degrees (fans not on max speed, with full speed hit even a low as 24 degrees idle with overclock)
Without delidding, it is not worth it. When delidded and liquid metal put between the IHS and the core, you will see a big improvement. This also goes for notebooks/laptops, where no IHS on the CPU is used.
For my ITX build inside DAN SFX A4, I have actually delidded the CPU and did not use IHS at all. The main hurdle here is to remove the LGA brace (metal frame holding the CPU) and adapt the mounting mechanism for the missing height of the CPU core. Then you will have the right thing - my trusty i7 4790k works at 4.4GHz@1.2V without throttling under only Noctua L9i (92mm fan cooler).
Are you using a Delid Die Guard? Im considering going no ihs after delidding and using one of those
@Advocatus Diaboliwell I think it shouldnt make that much of a difference because where the LM is great is spreding the heat from the Die to all the ihs, making it much easier to dissipate. But since the cooler is generally the size of the IHS you may not see that big of a leap in performance... And there is a HUGE problem: most AiO coolers have a bare copper bottom, and the LM will destroy the copper
@Advocatus Diaboli yeah termal grizzly kryonaut its pretty damn good
@@PedroMoreira2001 I am using no die guard. Havin finesse ("feeling") for the mounting pressure is enough.
@Advocatus Diaboli CPU die is not electrically conductive - the ceramic silicate material, which is the shiny dark grey package we see when we delid our cpus, is already isolated. This alone leads to the conclusion, you cannot conduct any electricity to the CPU block.
Further more, fluid used inside AIOs is never water alone - it is in most cases glycole (alcohol) based liquid, maybe mixed with distilled water in certain amount, but that is also not conductive. Heck, even pure water is NOT conductive! Water starts conducting electricity when inpurities are dissolved in it. But still, the water is not nearly as conductive as many think, not even the water out of your bathroom or kitchen.
Have had much experience with liquid cooling back in the day when I started with thermaltake bigwater cooling system. Had a leak onto my GPU, GPU started showing some artifacts and it was only then I saw already dried CPU coolant on the PCB. I washed it away with alcohol, GPU functioned without any problems.
EK full custom loop, had a leak on the CPU block all over mainboard, PC was running a bit hot, I knew something is not right, so I was stunned when I saw a small waterfall down the mainboard over the GPU - my inlet barb on CPU block was not screwed in correctly. Turned off, wiped coolant, let it dry, put back together, booted and functioned without any problems.
Amazing spread of thermal paste previously. Even distribution, no over spill, no high or low spots. Very even application. Goals
I've actually been curious regarding the longevity of liquid metal. Even when you apply the head room of overclocking, what can we expect on the replacement time frame for liquid metal?
Damn, didn't know small form factor could be so cool!
3:45 wow that's hardly any liquid metal!! crazy how that is enough to cover the whole CPU!
The way even this man tearing off the case is aesthetically pleasing ...
Thank you. This was a very crucial video for my choice of liquid metal or thermal paste
One tip for all when spreading liquid metal. First put a small drop on, then spread it as if you're wiping it off with a lint-free tissue (paper towel works too). Then add it on and spread like normal - it becomes very easy.
What..?
OMG THIS ITX BUILD IS AMAZING!!!
Bumped into this channel randomly. Def subscribing.
Once my tiny build is perfectly done, I don't want to put it apart anymore. Props to you for finding it in you to rebuild it so many times.
I gotta say I heard my grandmother in your video. At 2:02 when you pulled the fan out by the wires and not the base, shed always yell at me for doing it to our vacuum plugs that way too. Never took it to heart till I unplug a fan on the fan control board by wires and it all slid right apart lol
This is probably the most underrated channel ever
Agreed. Thermal paste all the way. Not worth the risk ruining other components during install or clean up. Hell...thermal paste is pain enough.
i'm thinking on using thermal pads so i don't have to mess around cleaning all that thermal paste again, but still, it's not a thing i do every day so..
@@3dfer383 True...not something you do everyday...so...go with a good paste. I'm not sure how I feel about pads.
You used the wrong tip to apply the liquid metal. You’re supposed to use the needle looking tip.
Hey, you seem to know about using this stuff. Question: I've installed maybe 12 CPU's in my life. So I'm probly a beginner. Is using this Conductonaut something that I should avoid? Like is it probly beyond my capability to apply and install?
Who came here after watching the PS5 teardown
You fell for marketing hype then.
@@rinaa6865 Quite the contrary ... we came here to fact check advantages of liquid metal
very cool experiment, thanks for sharing your results
That b-roll was so simple yet so clean.....sexy....
I wouldn't bother with the expense and drawbacks of liquid metal, unless I'm delidding a CPU, which is not something I have ever done or realistically need to do. The only alternative cooling option I would seriously consider for mainstream use would be thermal pads, which probably need a few more years of development before they are effective replacements.
no , i know because i tried it :)
Yes because im doing it with every CPU even the 9900k is delidded and direct cooled.
@@12Burton24 we talk about a different thing here m8
@@antraxbeta23 not real using LM on a CPU IHS or die doesnt matter it will always be worth it
I saw an improvement of 4-5 Degrees, but it's such a pain to apply compared to regular thermal paste. I spent 20 mins removing the tiny droplets that got onto my mobo.
The issue with liquid metal is that it can easily saturate the heatsink. The heatsink can only output so much heat at a time. If there is more heat going into the heatsink then out, you're going to saturate the heatsink and have similar performance to paste that conducts heat to the heatsink at the same rate that the heatsink dissipates it
coming here after watching ps5 teardown
Came here after watching Terminator 2
Come here after some optimum tech video
You should test this for laptops, even though I don't think I've ever seen a laptop on your channel. This stuff is magic for anything that thermal throttles. I added it to my laptop CPU and GPU, 20 degrees Celsius drop on both, which was amazing considering I was running at 99 on CPU and 80 on GPU before. They don't go over 80/60 now at all.
it entirely depends on the laptop sadly. some just have a weak system entirely and cant do the job no matter what you put on it.
i did it for mine, results were disapointing
Wondering the same. Thanks a lot for the video! Keep it up!
I have no idea what im doing here I've never even built a computer in the first place
Welcome to the rabbit hole. Have fun in here lol
Love the production of this video
Liquid Metal Works great when delidding. Was able to over clock to 4.8ghz while keeping temps at 40 degrees. Well worth it.
Will you still be saying that when the Gallium destroys the metal components?
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex not metal components. But aluminium components, it wont do shit to copper.
Are you going to check out IC's Graphite Thermal Pad and Thermal Grizzly's upcoming Carbonaut? They're both are marketed as an alternative to thermal paste by how easy they are to apply (or drop) on to the processor. Would love to see you compare and review them!
On the GN video with Der8aur? Der8our? Der8y. They pretty much say the carbonaut is not as good as the Kryonaut paste but more of a near infinite lifespan instead of something that would be changed out every year or so like pastes. A trade off between effectiveness vs convenience.
Paste is still more effective than the pads. I'd used the pad in a system for my parents so I'd never have to worry about paste drying.
@@zoomzabba452 i use it on my laptop so i dont worry about it gooping around. glad i switched it out since the paste on the gpu already slopped a circle around the square when i went to replace it
“O wow 3* less heat that’s just amazing dude congratulations with this achievement”
3 fewer heats*, my friend.
@@RickMyBalls GOTTEM
Short answer. Yes! 5-7 C difference on CPU and GPU. Ryzen 2700x w/ Noctua D15 and GTX 1080ti w/ Raijintek Morpheus II - This is the difference compared to Nocua NT-H1 - I recommend using 3M Scotch 33+ electrical tape around the GPU die.
It would have been great if u could do low profile productivity itx case for programming, deep learning so on without rgb crap etc. Love your vids btw keep up the good work.
Will you try the graphite thermal pad next?
Everyone knows graphite thermal pads are worse than even thermal paste and generally used as a longetivity perspective so that it does not have to be replaced in a year or two. There is no point of using it in sff builds as sff builders usually know what they are doing and are likely to replace the thermal paste every when required for that performance and noise benefit
@@BITVedanshAgarwal graphite pads dont need to be replaced at all. they never degrade. but der 8auer will release crabonaut pads which will be similar but have better temps.
@@BITVedanshAgarwal no its not. i used thermal pads myself and theyre great. theres a measure for thermal conductivity that all pastes (and LM and pads) are rated at and the pads i used (IC graphite) were as good as some LM, but easier to apply than any paste and less hazardous
They are made for low maintenance workstations that don’t have overclocked cpus for longevity.
@@BITVedanshAgarwal They've been proven to be almost as good as liquid metal.
Here is the real question, how long did you let the thermal paste cure for? The thermal paste curing process can take from a week to 3 months to see real world results and changes over time.
You know what we did back in the days? We took Arctic Silver, applied a thin layer to the core with a credit card (thinner than hair, thinner than paper). Then people got lazy and started putting a blob or an X of arctic (silver or mx) but they put too much in order to spread itself everywhere on the CPU die. And after so many years or R&D that would make silver non-conducting, some one had the brilliant idea to use a 100% conductive and corrosive liquid as thermal paste that would REQUIRE to be thoroughly spread on the CPU. Guess what... if you carefully spread a thin layer of arctic silver 5 or kryanot, it will be as effective as your carcinogenic and extremely toxic liquid metal.
Imagine they made a cpu that had a built in heatsink so there is no gap between the lid and heatsink, which would negate the need for thermal paste... Then just add in whatever fan you want to use on the heatsink. Would this work out?
Nice videos :) Quick question : what is the brand of the screwdriver you use here, the one with the magnetic bits? It seems quite useful!
It's the iFixit kit
OK thanks!
Putting a substance that reacts with other metals and is highly conductive close to the CPU and its contacts.... makes sense, how could you loose??!
I wonder if the performance difference would be a lot more different if the test was done with a tower push pull cooler instead of a low profile one.
Reward doesn't seem to be as high as the risk. I'd just stick to the thermal grizzly thermal.
I personally like welding the IHS to the heat sync
Why stick with paste when liquid metal is a better conductor resulting in lower temps, and application is exactly the same as paste?
Price
I'm not too concerned that this liquid is conductive, but is it runny enough that it would somehow escape from between the cpu and cooler and gets dripped on the gpu overtime?
Results? Yes.
Worth the swap as well as the price difference? Probably not.
Well i delidded my i7 8700k added liquid metal at 5ghz overclock my temps never hit above 60c
Holy shit then
Did you still use it now after 10 month?
Great, being a dumbass now and intead downturning the fan trying to get into minus now to boast here how smart it is
Well, Intel is famous for their "high-quality" toothpaste
4:07 "Do make sure it's not an aluminium cold plate otherwise there will be a chemical reaction." Sooooo, is it just pure gallium then or some sort of alloy of gallium?
Direct die mounted cooler. Hope the back bracket fits. Thats the ultimate sff in my opinion. If you look at laptops cpu and gpu, they are all direct die mounted. Sff nowadays are approaching laptop levels of compactness with much more powerful hardware.
I was actually wondering what would happen if you do use liquid metal for a cpu cooler
One huge benefit to use metal you don't need to reapply it yearly for optimal temperature.
What tissues are you using to cleanup the thermal paste of CPU? Anything specific or just regular wet (non-alcoholic) tissues..?
Well epxlained and helped me to apply liquid metal compound on my cpu and gpu
I believe the threadripper uses a IHS that is soldered to the die so i would NOT attempt a delid and the gains would be negligible or actually worse than stock
Thank u dear sir... I didn't get bored at all while watching ur video... Supercool.. thanks a lot sir... Love u...
If that Rajintek cooler has an aluminum block around those heat pipes and the Thermal Grizzly Liquid metal has Gallium in it, you cannot use them together.
Try those new graphite reusable thermal pad/sheet. Supposidly has a very high thermal transfer
They in theory have huge thermal transfer compared to regular thermal paste but fall short in term of C° , they're still extremely useful thanks to their usability !
@@Test-yl6jp esp in reviews terms with test benches, just dont usevthe thermal grissley ones I've seen reviews they tear easily and get stuck on ihs so much for being a better improved reusable product der8aur developed
Could you review the nzxt h200i I think it’s an interesting case for mini itx builds and I believe the “smart” hub actually has a use in this case compared to the other atx ones because it can be used as a fan hub as some mini itx motherboards don’t have many fan headers
I have this case.. its awesone for small case.. the airflow for this case is superb myte.. how ever.. you are planing to buy rtx card.. i dont know if can fit those cards on the case.. i have asus strix 1080.. planing to buy rtx 2080 ti in the future.. but its seem there will be a problem on the thickness height of those rtx card.. just keep in mind
I've done some research on those "big" ITX cases. I do really like the aesthetics and build quality of the case. But the GPU clearence between PSU schroud and coolers kills it for me.
Thats why i am planning on buying the fractal design nano S. in combination with an SFX PSU makes the GPU clearence a lot better.
If only i could remove the PSU shroud of the H200, then it'd be an instant buy.
BTW, that fanhub is shiit. just buy a regular fan hub. watch somereviews of that case on Gamers Nexus (they reviewed the H700?)
@@gotchie1591 H200/i most certainly can fit 2 slot RTX cards. There arent many though.
Why would he waste his time reviewing a top tier case everyone knows is good.
I'm all for the Kryonaut paste. Definitely the best on the market objectively and no problem using it in critical environment like GPU die. Definitely worth it.
Just a note: this does corrode copper although to a much smaller degree. Just use a quality paste.
Those temps are too high for my liking, but you have such an elegant small build
Before i watch it, i can imagine alot of people applying too much and mess up the pc
I wonder how many people put it on aluminum.
the cpu didn't look quite clean when you applied the liquid metal..
Was your processor delidded? My bad for missing it if you mentioned it.
no
I actually don't think it would make a significant difference with threadripper, as threadripper is well able to compensate its higher TDP with the larger surface area of the IHS. In other words, the heat is more spread out.