Can you use 3d Printed Bearings for Robotics?
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- Testing 3d printed bearings to see if they can be used in a robot arm.
Fusion 360 CAD files are at: github.com/roT...
These are the supplies i used:
5mm steel rod: amzn.to/3HMBGeV
Thin wall bearings: amzn.to/3gtYLqG
and: amzn.to/3H7JPZY
1.75mm PLA+ filament: amzn.to/3HvzVT5 - Наука та технологія
I can't believe you don't have more subscribers! Cool content and a very soothing voice. I subbed
Thank you so much!
Another great video! I've just started on my robotics journey and your videos are helping a lot.
Thank you very much! Let me know how you get on in your journey into robotics.
This is the best video I've seen on 3D printed bearings! I may have to give these a try on future projects.
Go for it! As I said in the video, they're not quite as good as metal bearings, but at the price, they are fantastic!
Thanks. I've been messing with this stuff myself. The bigger bearing issue is a pain. Its always interesting to see new ideas.
I'm glad you liked it! I'd be interested to see what you're working on. Have you come up with any good ideas?
@@roTechnic I haven't really felt anything made photographic quality. I think the most novel thing i have done is used some ball bearings with Chrisoph Laimer slew gear design. The cylinder shapes for the bearings kept suffering elephant feet. Actually, making a bevel around the bottom edge of the gear connecting parts is a bit of a must. Unless you have the greatest printer set up. So my progress is. I have a small micro and mg99r servo arm that about works but I felt servos are too weak. I am now moving onto steppers and cycloids as I think the accuracy and tightness will be better.
Also, would you be able to upload a stl or stp file of the larger bearing on github? I would like to give it a try.
Yeah, I normally run a chamfer along the bottom of parts to get round the whole elephants foot thing too.
I've uploaded a 3MF file to the github page in the description for the 100mm bearing - you should be able to import it straight into Cura or PrusaSlicer. However, depending on your tolerances you may have to play with the sizing slightly to make the balls run freely. My printer currently can print clearances of 0.1mm with a 0.6mm nozzle so YMMV
I would love to see these bearings in use. This is something I have wanted to toy around with for a long time. Great vids!
Hopefully they’ll be in use in my next couple of videos!
I love this video! Thank you for explaing things perfectly. And the test with the lathe! Brillant..ive never thiught of testing a life expectancy of a bearring this way! Thank you for sharing! I will watch with intetest your next videos 😊
Oh, hi! Good to see you here! Thanks for watching and for the kind words 🙂
Great video, i might need to try this myself! I also think you explained torsional stiffness quite well!
Thank you very much! And thank you for giving me the right words there - I was searching by brain for "torsional stiffness" when I was making the video!
❤❤❤❤ you make my learnings so worth every second spent on it
That is so well done.
I am amazed how well it seems to Work for you. I Love it! 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Superb work and video, subscribed and interested to see your progress over time.
Awesome, thank you!
Very nice. By the way, our voice and intonation, as well as rythm and content, reminds me of Allain Millyard, a tad.
Thanks. I hadn't come across that channel before - he's really good isn't he!
Nice. I've contemplated doing this my self. I ended up using fully 3d-printed cross-roller bearings/slew bearings. I have to say those worked surprisingly well, though I found it best not to print the rollers in PLA, due to friction. Also I found it helpful to screw the split rings together, so I could adjust the preload of the bearing to my liking. I have not done as rigorous a test as you have here though. Not sure if my 7x14 lathe will swing the bearing I made :D
Thanks. How big is the bearing you made?
@@roTechnic OD 160mm ID110mm, thickness 12mm. The ID could probably have been made a bit larger If I didn't screw both the inner and outer rings together from two pieces (four in total).
Starred! I've been wanting to make an automatic watch winder and these will be perfect for making it look cool 😁
Good luck man! Let me know how the watch winder goes.
@@roTechnic will do!
You are damn good with these videos
Thank you!
Great work!
I'm doing some work with 3d printed bearings (in my case, recirculating screw setup) and besides the 4.5mm (.177 cal) BBs I discovered that there are also 8mm (5/16) and 9.5mm (3/8) slingshot ammo available pretty cheaply. for large diameters it may make sense to have fewer larger balls rather than more, small ones.
what sort of preload do you design in? for a 4.5 BB do you design the CAD model for 4.5mm gap? or smaller?
that’s useful info, thank you.
as for preload, I design the cad model at 4.5mm. but, as this is 3d printing, it comes out a bit smaller than that - not sure how much. I’ve found the best way of setting preload is actually to adjust the height of the bearing, changing the amount of material above and below the balls and relying on the PLA to flex slightly
Ha! Funny, I bought the same BBs and had a very similar design for a bearing, just did it in OpenSCAD.. they do work surprisingly well. Didn't get so far as to put a race in though... Good idea
Anyways, great videos and love your old lathe, I grew up playing with southbend lathes from the 1940s in my dad's shop.. the new ones are tighter, but lack the character and good cast iron found in the oldies😋
Cool. What are the bearings for.
And, yeah - you can't beat old cast iron!
@@roTechnic strangely also related to your videos... They were integrated into a cycloidal drive😋 I also didn't want to spend the money or wait for bigger bearings.. seems we're on a similar wavelength.. only you're making videos😉
As for the purpose of the cycloidal drive.. wasn't sure what I wanted to do with it yet, just really like them. I have a couple of very short animations of a couple of the designs in OpenSCAD on my channel... Hopefully more to come someday when I have more time..
Love the animation! How are you finding balancing the backlash vs friction? I think that might be the most frustrating part of these gearboxes.
@@roTechnic to be honest, I was happy it spun at all😇 I had printed a few before, but without any constraining features, so I just spun the cycloid around by hand.. adding up all that can go wrong with the tolerances between the cycloid/pin mesh, the eccentric and then the BB bearing races integrated into the parts themselves.. the fact that it all worked more or less was good enough for me.. I decided that the next one would be with bought bearings just to remove that part of the equation until the cycloid part was nailed down. Then I started renovating a house, work got intense and it's been sitting in my box of unfinished projects since the move...
But after talking to you, I might have to open that box up and get started again😉 I may just label the box "Pandora" before I open it though😋
Haha, yeah - I know that feeling! Let me know how you get on if you do decide to open Pandora's box again!
You should try spraying a thin coat of conductive copper paint on the races and then electroplate several thou of nickel-chloride over it and then repeat your tests. I'd wager it would work quite well.
really nice
Great video!
Fantastic. Immediately subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
Great video ! thank you for sharing
Have you tried fully 3d printed slew bearings? I’ve seen great results in other videos
I like your content
If you used a tin can cut as a track that the bearing could run along, would that help with fiction issues?
the bearings run inside a round groove. I can’t think of a way of forming that from the tin can. if you can I’d love to hear about it, I’m always up for improving my projects 😎
@@roTechnic yeah, maybe not a tin can, but a ring. (hoop rings can be bought at the dollar store). Or perhaps just wire. I'm thinking metal will have less friction than plastic, so get the bearings running on metal.
Oh, now that's a great idea! If i find these wear out or sap the power then I'll definitely redesign with something like what you're suggesting. Thank you!
Can you upload these in a different format for Linux users? There's no way to use/interact with F3D files in Linux :( Thanks!!
Yeah, sure! I must admit I didn't even think of that, sorry! What format would work for you?
@@roTechnic OpensCAD is what many Linux users use - thanks!
Right, I've looked into it and there's a problem - maybe you can help me solve it.
You can't export from Fusion into OpenSCAD format, and any other option I choose to save the fusion file as loses all the parameters so you can't modify any of the sizes or gaps.
The only way I can see round it would be to redesign the whole thing in OpenSCAD which I don't really want to do for all my projects.
Can you think of anything I could do?
@@roTechnic Hmm...Not surprised as I think about it more because the 2 work so differently. Are there any Fusion export options that *do* retain parameters for modification? Usually there's a Linux solution; Fusion is an outlier. Thanks for working on this!
Nice
Thanks
are you sure it is really 1,500 pcs of steel BB? i've checked the model files, it seems like you are using 15mm D steel bb. but even on taobao, the cheapest 304 Steel BB with 15mm diameter cost way more than 5 pounds for 1,500 pcs.
They've gone up since I made this video, now they are 8 pounds for 1500 at amzn.to/3GFxYGf
cool
thank you
You need to get a resin printer and try this again printing in resin, you might be able to get tigher tolerances and smoother inner races.