For about five years now I've been using 3d printed parts in all sorts of machines -- cnc routers, other 3d printers, cnc plasma etc. As I look at this video I can't help but make a couple suggestions going forward. First, use the capabilities of 3d sculpting that 3d printing allows, adding ribs, bosses and other complex strengthening details. If you run the math, it becomes clear that these can dramatically improve the stiffness and stability of this kind of bracket for about no cost. Second, I always use embedded nuts, never rely on threads in the plastic. They're easy to incorporate and allow for full and repeated tightening without difficulty. My 2c.
I 100% agree with you. 3d printing affords the designer the ability to design strength into the model at no extra cost (besides additional filament for the features). Its a win win. In traditional manufacturing/machining, any additional strengthening features add a significant increase to the machine time and possible tooling/setup costs.
Couldn't agree more the best part of 3d printing is the ability to make complex but strong models. That design would've been alot faster to just drill a few holes in some flat bar
100%. Lots of older engineer guys are very 'stuck in their ways' of thinking in metal material science. The restrictions we once had on design due to impractical or impossible issues with manufacturing are now often redundant and you can do whatever you dream up. In this video he made no use of the fact he was 3d printing and just recreated a piece exactly how it would be if it was aluminum. Great video though, really like the production quality and I learned a lot.
I have never ever had a single problem 3D printing, anything! Nothing ever shrank, got stuck to the bed, left a poor surface finish! I think that is directly related to the fact that I don't have a 3D printer. If I did, I'm sure I would have every possible problem there is, and even some that are impossible! Great Channel, I'm glad I found it, can't wait to see all your videos!!
I've found using multiple walls (3 or four of them) massively increases rigidity and actually prints very fast. Also... adding holes. Yes: adding holes. The holes end up having the same 3/4 walls and add way more strength and rigidity than infill, while also printing very quickly.
This sounds like a good case for switching to a 0.8 nozzle. The infill being twice as wide is quite stiff and only two outer walls has the same effect as you mentioned while printing much faster.
yea, cnc kitchen has a video about this, and how it is nearly always better fkr both strength and rigidity to use more material in the walls and less in the infil. Ie. better result with the swme material. Most simple designs print faster too as you say - but thats just a bonus. I wont go into tokcmuch detail (better to watch the mentioned video) but the gist of it is that material stresses are under nearly all circumstances high at the edges and low at the center - so generally that is where you want to invest the most material. Check out ideas like "gradient infill" to further optimize based the same principle.
I would also add that the lack of top and bottom layers here probably matters. At 0.25 and 3 layers this is a very thin piece of plastic for that amount of distance.
instead of holes, you can add some empty space inside the model that is so thin is gets filled when printed, that gives you walls inside the print, making it much stronger
I've been doing this professionally for 11 years. You should never remove a part from your print bed by pushing a scraper towards your other hand trying to support it. Just remove the bed from the printer. Put it into a corner of a worktable with an high edge, or your kitchen counter and let the corner support the back edge of the print bed, and push the scraper forward, and away from yourself using both hands. You can get way more leverage and it's super safe. This is the safest way to do it. I've seen people wreck them selves bad and hit major arteries and have to go to the hospital doing what I saw you do in the video. Because sometimes the the parts pop off quick and this unexpected quick movement is what gets ya. Just looking out for you sir! Good Luck on all you do! Cheers
I sliced right through my thumb with a scraper whithin 6 months of printing lol, I think the best method is either flexible PEI sheet, glass bed put in freezer, or use a skirt in slicer
I don't ever subscribe, but not only your approach to the engineering and proofing of 3d printing (lots of hearsay and snakeoil advertising out there), not only your keen understanding of the simple truth of TRUE Carbon Fiber, and not only because of your mechanical testing... But because you are relaxed, explanatory, and minimal background noise, loss of multiple angle cuts, and an overall lack of ADHD prodcution values you see in so many of these videos today. Thank you man.
No bad comments here from me, i know guys been printing parts for years and took them 100s of prints in carbon fiber to get the results they wanted, where all learning all the time. Thanks for video great job.
I don't have a 3D printer, or any practical use for this knowledge, at least at this time, but I found myself watching this in its entirety. I think you did a great job with your presentation, and you are easy to watch, listen to, and understand. I wish that I could enjoy owning a fabrication shop like you have, and maybe someday, God willing, I will. I think I'll enjoy watching your projects in the future. Liked and subscribed.
I think this is one of bests free videos from the makers I've seen. Really happy to watch professional and complete content (with aftermath, fully covered, no steps or info skipped, all seems thought of well, nothing left aside). Excellent for finding time for deadlifts! Good luck!
I was hesitant to get this material because I was told that if you didn't have an enclosed and heated print chamber you were hooped. I am encouraged to see it worked for you. I am going to order this for some industrial applications! Thanks for the video!
You can also increases the number of walls to make things stiffer. I also add ridges to flat parts, similar to what they do with car floor pans, this seems to help the most.
DFM my friend! You're taking a part designed in 6061 and turning it into a CF print. A little tweaking of material here and there will solve the rigidity issue, but going 1:1 on converting a part material/method rarely ever works.
Carbon reinforced plastics generally are 20-80% the strength of 6061. But they are 1/10th as stiff, so im not even surprised. Even if this was injection molded, i doubt it would be sufficient for this application.
I want to do more of this kind of stuff, this is right up my alley, so I have a question. How would you adjust this part to make it behave more like the aluminum copy? How much thicker? Put ribs on it in key locations to reduce flex?
@@mjodr Set infill to 100% and make it a solid part would be the first step. If you notice in his slicer he had infill set to below 50%. It makes no sense to compare a plastic that isn't solid through out to the same part in solid aluminium. Always compare apples to apples meaning your geometry needs to be identical. Always print with 100% infill for functional parts that see modest loads.
Brass inserts installed using a soldering iron work very well. I have been using NylonX for about 2 years now in the drone industry and love the stuff. If your parts are shrinking, you can adjust your slicer program to accommodate.
I use the same. Only suggestion is springing the extra few cents per. Instead of a flat bottoms, some have a nipple on one side. Self centers it when you heat it, you dont have to screw with it.
For increased rigidity, i go for 6 walls and 50-60% infill which appears from my testing to make a significant difference in stiffness. Also, geometry matters, so i would add webs to this design. Another really enjoyable video!!
Hi James, Rule of thumb - plastic thread length should be 2-3x the diameter and you will have a nice holding force. When you do the forming - lubricate the tap. Overheating deforms the plastic and sometimes leads to striping while forming. Thumbs up for the job done 👍👍👍
I’m a total newbie to this black art, i’ve read up as much as i could take in about a lot of the mainstream printers and found the X1CC to fit the bill of what i need best (nearest thing to plug and play), your video is excellent, love your acknowledgment of the affiliation at the start then a very easy to understand offering of true and clear knowledge, far too many people have a tendency to pause too long or just constantly waffle or double up on detail where you get lost or disinterested before you even start. Now subscribed and watching more of your experiences. Thank you 👏
You might want to design the part so that its not just a flat plate, but to have side walls etc to add rigidity. Flat 3d printed parts usually are bendy. I also think that basic PLA is more rigid. The tougher filaments are usually that because they bend more. So better design and simple PLA might get you better results.
I agree, this part seems like a conventional machinist designed it but the process can accommodate much more intelligent and bulky design. Really not trying to criticize the designer here.
Agreed. I was planning on doing exactly that, but there are space constraints where it's going to be mounted, so there wasn't room. It turns out that's really necessary to get the rigidity for this level of force in this material, so I learned something.
In this case, space limitations on the machine precluded a more robust design with ribs or other mechanical advantage. At the moment, I'm also struggling with the need to build off the flat plate. I've been playing with support, but depending on the geometry, it can be really tenacious and hard to remove. Looking forward to trying dissolvable support so I don't have those limitations.
Good idea. I was thinking about some diagonal stiffening ribs - looks like there's plenty of clearance under the pulley. Another interesting video, James.
@@JoeMalovich Yes, its more about the design than fancy filament. Its never going to be metal, so need to compensate for the forces the part is subjected to. You can create some really rigid parts that withstand a lot by doing that. I think people expect a bit too much from these special filaments, while temperature & impact resistance are probably the actual real benefits compared to the humble PLA.
Very nice analysis, specially at the end, you even took the time to do a long term test, which is truly impressive, and you documented all the little issues and details that pop up during the design, printing and post-processing process, so yeah, I’m very pleased with this video and all the stuff I learned from it, great job, and thanks a lot for sharing all this info and hard work with us!!!
After hearing everybody call CF Nylon an aluminum replacement it is really nice to see somebody give it a review comparing it to aluminum, and discuss how it acts beyond "its strong hurr durr". Thank you for this video looking at this fascinating material! I guess it's time I try out the CF nylon I got a month ago. I've just been putting it off for fears of difficulty printing and wasting money on bad prints.
I suggest you look at some other channels that actually test all the CF filaments with standard engineering tests. None of them are stronger than the base plastic, most are weaker, and frankly, no one ever called CF nylon "black aluminum". For this application, he should have milled Delrin plastic or just used aluminum, which is isotropic.
Your printed part came out very nice. Like you the texture is nice to I have found that Decorators Tape lets the Carbon Filament to stick the best and the parts easily come off. Also I print with the parts fan off using Esun CF with the bed at 45 and extruder at 247 and speed around 35 on an Anet A8 for those interested As said don't use the standard brass Nozzles as it will cut out the hole twice the size in about an hour of use and you get a mess, so you need to use a steel or Stainless steel Nozzle . Tip Always remove the filament by pushing it into the Hot End while it is at the high temperature from the stated heat range of the filament and pull out after use . Esun CF heat range is from 240 to 260 So you just push the filament and then pull it out. This helps clean the Nozzle for next time
Hey, thanks for the video! I'm sure you've gotten some more experience with this and other carbon-reinforced filaments, but I thought I'd share a couple notes based on my experience of working with these materials for the past couple years as an engineering grad student (we have a Markforged printer in my lab that's basically designed to print CF-nylon, even with some additional long fiber reinforcement, and nothing else, fun but spendy piece of hardware). 1) Like a couple other folks have mentioned in the comments, cutting threads into plastic, particularly nylon-based plastics, just doesn't work all that well for all the reasons you observed. You can get a package of heat-set inserts in brass, aluminum, and even 303 stainless from McMaster-Carr for reasonably cheap (and probably cheaper elsewhere). There are tools for interfacing them with a soldering iron, but you can even just heat them up with the basic iron or a torch and drop them into the appropriately sized hole (which you may have to drill to get right or just burn through, again because of the problems you observed about getting hole dimensions right the first time). 2) I just thought I'd explain the phenomenon you showed in the "few weeks later" shot. Nylon, like basically all thermoplastics, is viscoelastic, so any 3D-printed part under a constant load will experience some level of "flow." An extreme case of that is something like a soft taffy. If you pull on it, it'll stretch out, and when you let go, it'll spring back a little, but it'll still be stretched out. The mechanism for this is the long polymer chains having a limited ability to slide over each other and rearrange under load. Quite fascinating stuff!
@@mrdot1126 ABS might be more resistant. It's generally a stiffer plastic, with rings in its chains, compared to nylon. However, there are a number of other factors, such as application temperature, amount of load, and molecular weight, which is the average length of the chains, and can vary even between two polymers with the same chemistry (i.e. two ABS's can have different properties). And ultimately, these only affect the time scale that you see it happen. Basically all polymers will exhibit the behavior on some level. It's just generally good advice that, if you have something under constant load, polymers should probably be your last choice for material. They may work for very light duty, but certainly anything that will cause them to visibly flex will cause them to permanently deform over time.
Oh, my printer is absolutely amazing, spans my whole yard, a motor over here, a frame over there, doesn't make much, but you can always find bits of it everywhere after my last disassembly. Now I have a mill and lathe, I think it's high time I put it back together again with better parts.
You'll learn in no time (like I did) that Nylon LOVES moisture, but the printer HATE wet nylon... You should keep the spool in a drybox with dissecant all the time. If not you'll get all kind of problems: stringing, bad layer adhesion, poor finished parts and so on. Great Video! I like it.
In Cura, there is "Hole Horizontal Expansion" where you set it to make holes larger. I found that hole sizes were consistently off by .25mm so I set it to .125 (radius) and it works great.
Hole inside diameters always end up smaller than what is modeled and this is common across the majority of 3D printers. It doesn't really have anything to do with the slicer itself.
@@internettoughguy That setting in the slicer will eliminate the problem. If you don't want to use it, then don't. Others might find it useful. I know I certainly do.
Haha. "17:58" I ran a clapped out Anet A8 for a VERY long time, don't let anyone tell you that you need a "better printer". It all comes down to the solutions that we use. One thing that you might try doing is running an E-Steps calibration on the Extruder motor. This will get you VERY close to the result that you're after...but it won't fix the expansion/contraction issue that various materials offer. After that try printing a Negative Space Calibration tool. Think 10mm plug to fit into 4 X 10mm holes, each increasing in offset from .10 - .40. You can print this tool for different types of materials that you use in order to see what type of expansion you need. This way you can just add +X to your True dimensions. That's just my process. Love your video.
Maybe a little late for you but someone might still find it usefull: Increased infill increases the stiffness and stability of the part but whats actually even better than doing this is to change the infill pattern. I dont know the slicer youre using but at 8:37 take a look at "Internal fill pattern" and change it from Rectlinear to something more "organic". Precisely in PrusaSlicer (Or any Fork i assume) my favorite infill pattern to use is "Support cubic infill"
I’m very impressed with your product. Nice. Also loved your comment about those commenting “why don’t you just get what I have and everything will be perfect “. That made me smile. Eat it hater’s
Try annealing the part after it’s printed. This will lead to shrinkage so you will need to compensate but it will make the part much more rigid and less likely to experience creep
Another solution for the nylon adherence to the bed problem is printing a 0.3/0.6 layer of PETG to the bed and then print the Nylon above this PETG layer. This is the technique I used and the one that have given best results. Interesting thought that bed you have. Regards!
Set wall thickness at least 4 lines, for great stiffness set 6-8. Infill less important, set 15-30% or 100%. Also let the print cool down on a bed until room temperature. And do not use bottom chamfer. "Cura" can control inner holes (add or reduce separately from other sizes). Also you can just use ABS or PETG but make park more thick and it will be even better than now.
To unstick the part from the platter, squirt a bit of solvent along the edge of the part. Capillary action will suck the solvent in and under.... then prying is much, much easier. Acetone is mild stuff, I doubt it will attack the nylon. I've also seen (but not tried) air holes designed into the part, after printing you put an air gun to the holes and blast air in, it should release the part. Great video, and I absolutely loved the ELS video.
I’d love to see more printing videos specifically with the exotic cf filaments. I’ve been wanting to get a nice printer in our shop for some time and it would be a lot easier to justify if we could make actual production parts with it rather than just prototypes.
@quique182 Yeah tried those about 3 years ago. Just send a test cubicle out to 3d printing services. We immediately scrapped the idea after we got our cubes. I hope this gets better by time.
I've been 3D printing in plastic for 2 years now, and the more that I look at printing precision parts the more that I conclude that prints for lost PLA casting is the best application for the tech.
The issue with small holes can be fixed in the slicer, horizontal expansion in cura. Also layer heights are best in certain increments 2.8 would be better then 2.5. Great video, I think I’m gonna try some of this material.
We have several Markforged Onyx One / Mark II printers with the carbon fiber plate. We use Elmer's purple water washable glue in the stick to adhere the prints to the bed. Works perfect.
I often ask the same question - 3d print (easy but weak) or cnc mill (better part, more work). The lazy in me really wants to 3d print but my results are rarely worth the time, especially when the 3d part breaks in the middle of a job. For so many things in the shop the printer is awesome, but for this application I'd just mill it. Great video, thanks for sharing your experience.
Yeah the "after 1 week" image highlights just what I was thinking might be the problem. It will slowly deform under load, especially in a hot enviroment.
I just really appreciate that you showed the possible failure in the same video. That is some real 'Tegrity. You could have made two videos on an update of how it fared. You could have strung out a failed or possible failed attempt into several full-length video content. Your content is just on the fringe of what I am trying to do but I sub'd as soon as I saw the "sitting for a week/ maybe not" photo. I at least know I am getting straight answers. Kudos to you.
3d prints are definitely going to become a shop staple, no question. They're certainly getting closer to being able to replace aluminum and steel in some applications. Thanks for sharing what you're finding out! Please keep doing these vids. Much appreciated! :)
Great video. Nylon X was the first Carbon Fiber filament I used with my upgraded Ender 3V2, had great results with it. I have since been messing around various other materials like PETG with CF added and ABS. I love the finish and how the CF helps to prevent sagging when doing prints. Lots of great information in all the comments here. Have subscribed, will check out the rest of the videos you have up, very practical and helpful. I have the glass plate with Creality and find glue sticks work great or hair spray with this material. Most of the carbon stuff I do is with .6mm hardened steel nozzle, I was running about 50 bed temp and 260 nozzle with NylonX with great results. My Ender3v2 has added z axis and extra motor, direct drive extruder upgrade and auto bed leveling, with filament detection added, has been my workhorse since adding several key upgrades. Agree, many comments here about adding extra dimensional pieces for added stiffness, and comment about the use of nuts pressed into the plastic, all great comments. Thank you
@@Clough42 Make the hole slightly smaller than a helicoil insert core, and tap it with the helicoil thread (ensuring your wall thickness is thick enough)
I do the same except I run a tap through the threads to chase them. I also run a higher wall count and tap the threads a lot if they're more critical and inserts are not an option.
Sometimes conceding to the mill with aluminum or another thermoplastic or piece of a homemade carbon fiber panel (made during another video talking about vacuum bagging) is really just the way. I love to print , but some things just need milled especially when 2.5d. Let the cnc mill run for an hour or two and have a perfect part. Love the video and getting a feeling for nylon/Cf filament. Thanks for the effort!
My printer is awesome, and it prints inside holes the way I want them every single time. That is, some random rate of shrinkage. The trick is convincing yourself that's what you wanted. In reality though, I found a small hole guage plate on thingiverse, and I just print that with the settings and material I want, measure the IDs of that, and upsize my model's holes accordingly for the post-shrinkage ID I need. Works fine for models for private use. If I publish/share the model, I adjust the holes (back) for 1:1 accuracy first, or grab the pre-adjustment iteration. For printed parts meant to take loads and forces, I'd suggest doing custom _internal_ profiling and bracing. FDM materials are flexible, and autogenerated infill won't accommodate explicit strength and rigidity needs vs load type and directionality. When doing the design and custom/manual infill, I find it helps to think of it as if it was a stamped sheet metal hollow shell part. Design the profiles the sheet metal need for shell strength, then doodle in the manual infill for the internal bracing and beefing where neccessary.
Try this. The canned air sprays out as very cold air, try blowing the cold air around the edges of the part. It works great to release a part off of glass, might work on your base as well. It's worth a try.
Have you tried increasing the number of perimeters on the bracket? It's a good way to improve rigidity, much better than more infill. More top and bottom layers too.
The word "perimeters" must be another slicer program? I use CURA and i get instructions for only using 1 perimeters, (i build flying wings" Is the setting related to wall count? :-)
@@TheGeordietheWitchandtheWench Yeah Cura calls it "wall line count", but I hear "perimeters" being used more often. You probably know this but it's all about thickening the walls (and the top and bottom surfaces, "top/bottom thickness" in Cura) because that's where the stiffness comes from - in a simple beam, a bending load puts the bottom of the part into compression, the top into tension, and produces no stress at all along a line through the middle of the part. Increasing the number of layers around the outside of the part distributes the stress across more material so you get less strain and therefore less deflection. Increasing the infill density doesn't do as much because the stress is lower in the middle anyway.
For the size of the holes being small your slicer should have an expansion option to help with this. I use Cura and it is called "Hole Horizontal Expansion" It took my a long time to find this setting. :) Have a good one.
Just a note on this: Many more things than small holes will be considered a "hole". It can potentially cause issues with other models, particularly ones designed with only a few layer line thickness walls. e.g. a vase designed for exactly 4 walls thickness may become 3.8 walls thick, so maydo 3 walls with non-contiguous infill in the rest.
You can also play with the thread engagement in Fusion360 but when he's doing this type of work, total thread engagement is key. A 3D printer can only do so much by nature of the layer extrusion and why he explained how the threads are printed. Good tip tho👍
Tip of the day: When tapping in plastic... Dip your thread tap in water before each hole :) Water is really good as lubricant in plastic, and keeps the tap from heating up and melting your plastic.
All hail the blue Ryobi 18V. Dad and I bought a set in the 90's and used it for home improvement contracting for fifteen years. Still have most of it. The original drill died last year. Have another. The new green Ryobi batteries are backwards compatible with the blue so bought a few of those too.
For threaded holes, I always print them at the tap drill size, then just tap them with a cut tap after printing. A spiral fluted tap meant for blind holes seems to do better than a spiral point tap that forces the chips forward. As far a print surface, have you ever tried PEI? I have a thing sheet of PEI attached to a piece of .020" shim stock the size of my bed. I only print in PLA and NinjaFlex, so I don't know how well it works for other materials, but I've never had a problem with adhesion, and removing parts is easy because I can just flex the sheet to break them free. When the surface gets worn a bit, I just scuff it with scotchbright and it's back to new. The steel sheet is held in place by a magnet sheet on the aluminum heatbed.
Once I moved to flex bed material, we never looked back, print in a wide variety of materials. You need to re-level a small amount after removing the sheet to get parts off, but that seems minor to me.
I have used Carbon Fiber Nylon to print a sheet metal dimple die. There are some here showing 3d printed press brake tooling, and sheet metal forming dies for a hydraulic press. it really opens up what a small home shop can make when you have a 3d printer and the right filament
James, this is a nice video showing off the design and testing. I think you might already be catching on, but most 3D printed fixtures aren't great for constant loads like this. Unless you have room to spare for other features to stiffen it up (which is doesn't look like you have) this would still be a temporary solution that would need to get replaced with aluminum eventually.
Hey appreciate your videos... went back through your settings and a couple things come to mind. 1. For these types of parts (brackets and what not) Probably want to be running 4 perimeters and 5 top and bottom layers at a minimum. Will really help with that flex you were experiencing. Second, a HTN or High Temp CF-Nylon is more what is used for an aluminum replacement. I would try with those parameters though and see if it doesn't remove a lot of the issues you saw.
Been running a Markforged Mark 2 for the past year. It runs CF Nylon with continuous CF reinforcement. From my own testing, parts can get to Aluminum level strength. However, the CF patters need to be designed a certain way to bear the load. Since there is a lack of simulation for this, you end up printing the part three+ times to get the pattern right.
I hate the people that always chime in and tell you how you’re marching/designing wrong….that is NOT me. That being said, your firm on dead lifting…here’s what you need to work on….j/k, I have no interest in lifting things! Great video, it definitely helps to have you working the bugs out of these things before I jump in with both feet. Glad to see you taking care of the loose details on the ELS. I have to say, I couldn’t go from the start without it being buttoned up and hidden behind the pulley cover….of course mine isn’t as nice as yours will be!
The big challenge with holes in printing is that the stl is just polygons and holes are often made up of polygons with the points on the circle rather than the edges being tangent to the circle. More points/polygons in the model export cal lower that "shrinkage".
Yes ur right, but... if your printer firmware is able to receive G02 and G03 commands we have the so called ARC WELDER plugin. For CURA as well, But can be used as a separated stand alone PYTHON routine . It will fuse the poligons int ARCS, and will give freedom to the firmware to treat as arcs. The advantage is to compress the file size in the serial communication between the computer and the printer (in case u use it) , and of course the quality of the surfaces is higher.
A couple things that stood out for me were: 1) print functional parts solid 2) I use thickest available pc board with copper both sides (to control surface warp). When I use a spritz of hair spray, when it cools down the part falls off. 3) use beeswax as lube when cutting or chasing threads.
"Cold flow" for Nylon is a thing, meaning that under constant pressure, Nylon tends to squeeze out or bend. For example, a screw tightened down on a Nylon washer will eventually become loose as the Nylon slowly flows up from under the screw head. Nylon is good for wear items such as gears or sliding elements, but it'll be on a case-by-case basis regarding whether it's suitable where there's constant compressive or bending force.
I am working on 3d printable AFOs (leg braces) and have some CF Nylon on order to see how it will work. I also ordered some Taulman 910 to see how it works as well. I printed a previous design in PETG, and it wasn't up to snuff. Despite being thick enough to handle static load, cyclical loading causes stress cracks in the PETG after a single day of wear. Bummer. So I upgraded my hotend to a Hemera so I can try more advanced materials.
Infill is over rated. The biggest problem is that you are printing in the air for the most part. It is far better to add more walls to the model. In my structural parts i use around 8 walls and maybe around 30% infill depending on the model. I also use lines for infill as it is the most cost effective. Also 0.26 is the best layer height for strength with a 0.4mm nozzle, higher temps also give better layer adheason. I recommend watching some CNC kitchen videos as he debunks many myths regarding 3d printing strength. Also PLA is extremely underrated,(especially PLA+) it is better than both ABS and PETG in most cases, you dont need a super fancy filament for structural parts unless you know PLA's limits arent enough, like heat or low heat warping over time.(biggest draw backs) Even if you know a PLA part will break eventually, its so cheap and easy to print a new one it doesn't really matter that much. Also it might just work better than you'd think. Also, get the part right with the cheap stuff, then use the fancy filament. I've wasted expensive filament several times because the part wasnt right.
Machinist Tip: You could have done the following for the layer height. 1/32×25.4/4=0.1984mm OR 1/32×25.4/3=0.2646mm At least this way, you're giving your 3D printed threads the best possible chance when chasing with the tap. Good video! 👍
Generally, when using 3D printed parts instead of aluminum, I have chosen PETG - great strength and dimensional accuracy - I may give NylonX a try. However, none of these materials are metal - they need to be *significantly* thicker than an aluminum part if you want equivalent rigidity - especially with reasonable infill.
I've printed a lot of parts to use for my little Central Machine lathe and mill. With my ptinter it may take several tries to allow for the printer and filament. Well and should I mention for altering for a better design. Most often used is a dial micrometer holder for the lathe quick chang tool post. Enjoy your video.
I have a dial indicator holder for the lathe I machined in aluminum. I printed it originally and found it too flexible. It would be interesting to try again with CF filament.
James one day you’ll be lucky enough to be like me and have a printer like mine that prints everything perfect. Just yesterday I printed a new C8 corvette. Didn’t stick to the bed and the model didn’t shrink at all.
I think that we should compensate the weakness of this material increasing the thickness and adding some reinforcement like we do when shifting from metal to wood pieces. Great job! Thanks. May God bless you.
Full honeycomb infill will help a lot with flex/rigidity when printing plate shaped parts. Tolerances for holes I use +0.15mm radius. When taping multiple holes in a row I recommend cooling the tap tool every other hole. (I use a glass with water and ice). All plastics will heat a lot and if its pla or petg, the thread will be slightlly damaged when the tap tool gets hot (after 2/3 holes max) from my exp.
Thanks !!!! Just what i needed . I am also into cars for as long as i can remember . I am just starting out on 3d printing though and immediately have lot of things that one can print for the petrol heads . Thanks once again .
how i mitigate undersized holes is the following: print a test piece with 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8...n mm holes, measure how they came out, divide D(CAD)/D(measured) wich gives you a correction factor, ive pulled an average out of that, so now in fusion, i do a user parameter that is named correction with your personal correction factor, now all you gotta do when dimensioning the part in fusion is set the hole diameter times the correction factor and you will get much closer tolerances that way :) if you need it perfect, you can also fall back on the individual factors per size, but thats how ive gone about that problem and solved it satisfactory to me.
one trick i learned 3d printing is that if you tape or clamp paper to the build table the imperfections of the paper make parts stick better it also makes removing the parts easyer because they arent glued to the printer
I look forward to trying this material...I've printed PLA, PLA+, PETG, ABS, and ASA so far and have come back to PLA+ for most needs*. I would say though that I don't think any of those, or NylonX for that matter, are a direct 'aluminum replacement' in that you can reliably take a part designed for aluminum, print it in plastic, and expect it to work. Depending on the part though, you might be able to make adjustments (make it thicker, add ribs, etc.) to design a somewhat different but very usable part for the same use case. *I use PETG for compliant parts, and ASA for temp resistance, though those can be a hassle until dialed in. Otherwise I like PLA+ or 'Pro PLA'.
I`m just getting started in 3d printing, thanks for video on the carbon fill nylon, lots of good info. As for your threads coarse 10-24, rule of thumb with plastics, aluminum, cast iron are stronger. Thanks again have a good one.
Bed / part sticking issues / lifting and removing print parts from heated print bed. Solution: On print bed side of part make circular recesses during the drawing that are circa 0.5mm off set, this reduces overall bed contact and assists lifting printed parts that have a large surface area off the print bed, play with this suggestion to find a sweet spot design. 👌
I might have to check nylonx out. Just a tip - I use an artist's pallet knife to get under the edge of prints. They are a LOT thinner than a click knife and, because the blade is offset, they are much easier to get under the part without scratching the surface.
Not sure if anyone else suggested it but for a new material perhaps try printing a temperature tower. Can be very enlightening for determining default print settings.
As an alternative to aluminum or carbon print I have found (at least for flat parts) laminate flooring material is great, it's cheap, comes in several thicknesses, stiff easy to machine and very flat, It doesn't hold threads very well, but that's an easy fix with a recessed nut. It's great for prototyping, what's more if you can find a person that's remodeling and tearing out some old flooring you can get it for free.
I chase my pre printed threaded holes with a tap in a drill. And, like you, I notice the tap gets hot quickly. So I turn the drill slowly and give the tap time to cool off between holes because it is easy to melt the third or fourth hole in a sequence and ruin the part.
i didnt know there was a potential shrinkage issue. i have only printed a few things and i noticed that even though i gave my part an extra like .5mm I still couldnt fit the thing in1. thanks for the lesson!
on the topic of dimensional accuracy, the calibration guide from the guy who runs the teaching tech youtube helped me quite a bit. obviously youd need to run a calibration for the filament itself, but you might give it a shot if you havent already.
Nice test! I am about do do almost exactly the same thing. One tip tho...In Fusion360 when you model in metric you can input a standard value into the box and it will automatically convert it to metric. Thought this would save you some time and thinking😄 I plan on using CFnylon for jigs and fixtures. I recently bought some HT-CF-PLA. It's cheaper and almost the same effect for jigs. I figured I could make the base of the fixture with that then have a bolt on piece made from CFnylon to withstand a little more heat. I can also print the PLA with my cheaper printer and not tie up my PRUSA which I make money on. Thanks for saving me some testing time😁👍
Brass thread inserts are your friend. Heat them up with a soldering iron, and plunge them in. It's the only thing I would use for anything that requires an appreciable thread holding power.
When priting nylon i would stongly advise to use a heated print chamber. You can make one using a small portable car heater, plywood and some tinkering with the printters mainboard.
PLA is still the king of rigidity. I just wish there was a PLA with higher temperature resistance because it melts like butter. Regarding dimensions.. i design stuff with small holes (+10mm dia). I use the ender 3 and prints always come with shrinked holes. So i always over size holes dia by 0.2 mm in CAD. I also realized that the smaller the hole the more it will shrink and vice versa.
Great video. I haven't used anything but ABS in my printer but something I do that fits this application would be using 10/32 inserts instead of trying to thread into plastic.
Two of my absolute favorite engineering materials, combined. Nylon and carbon fiber. Ranks amonst Inconel and titanium for me. Main reason I'm interested in 3d printing - printing with Nylon and ABS. PLA does not really even feature, except for cheap disposable items, or prototyping. I'm impressed, and looking around for *that* filament. All the best, and thanks again!
PLA is more useful than you might imagine, the CNC Kitchen channel has done a lot of tests and PLA ends up being one of the strongest filaments. It also helps that it's dead simple to print nicely. My printer (ancient) was designed explicitly for ABS, but these days I mostly print eSun PLA Pro, with some PETG and some TPU. The PLA just prints so nicely and smoothly and reliably. If you really want ABS, I've heard ASA is basically the same properties but less toxic - ABS printing releases and breaks down styrene which is apparently very bad for breathing.
You'll see a lot of different opinions about PLA, and I think it mostly comes down to different ideas of what "strong" means. PLA is definitely more rigid than ABS or PETG, but because of this, it's also more brittle, so ABS tends to work better in applications that need to withstand impact, even though it bends sooner than PLA would. PETG has much stronger layer adhesion than either ABS or PLA, so in applications with thin walls or when you need strength across the layer lines, it's often a better choice, even though it flexes more than ABS and will take surface damage more readily. For what I do, I appreciate the surface lubricity of ABS. PLA-on-PLA moving parts tend to gall and abrade very quickly, where ABS fares better, and Nylon is even better. So while PLA might be "stronger" than nylon for some definition of strong, I'd rather have Nylon gears in a gear train properly designed for the properties of the material.
I originally thought I would be quickly migrating to some kind of Nylon since I was familiar with that family of plastics but after 4 years of 3D printing I still haven't bought Nylon. I am onto Ninjatek Armadillo and Form Futura TitanX which is a performance modified ABS. It's my go to filament and is dead easy to print and drill. The Armadillo is OMG tough, unfortunately including trying to file or sand it.
You might want to look into using some brass heat-set inserts; they hold threads a lot better than tapping straight into the plastic. You can press them in with a standard soldering iron, or turn a custom soldering iron tip to press them in. My wife also says that the spatula tool or a flexible painter's palette knife is the right tool for getting parts off the 3D printer bed. Those are the same tool she uses professionally in her 3D print lab.
For about five years now I've been using 3d printed parts in all sorts of machines -- cnc routers, other 3d printers, cnc plasma etc. As I look at this video I can't help but make a couple suggestions going forward. First, use the capabilities of 3d sculpting that 3d printing allows, adding ribs, bosses and other complex strengthening details. If you run the math, it becomes clear that these can dramatically improve the stiffness and stability of this kind of bracket for about no cost. Second, I always use embedded nuts, never rely on threads in the plastic. They're easy to incorporate and allow for full and repeated tightening without difficulty. My 2c.
I 100% agree with you. 3d printing affords the designer the ability to design strength into the model at no extra cost (besides additional filament for the features). Its a win win. In traditional manufacturing/machining, any additional strengthening features add a significant increase to the machine time and possible tooling/setup costs.
Couldn't agree more the best part of 3d printing is the ability to make complex but strong models. That design would've been alot faster to just drill a few holes in some flat bar
Came in to offer the exact same two points.
Great mimes speak alike. Bravo.
100%. Lots of older engineer guys are very 'stuck in their ways' of thinking in metal material science. The restrictions we once had on design due to impractical or impossible issues with manufacturing are now often redundant and you can do whatever you dream up. In this video he made no use of the fact he was 3d printing and just recreated a piece exactly how it would be if it was aluminum.
Great video though, really like the production quality and I learned a lot.
@@jessejuliano8056 cope
James, MY printer prints perfect every time. The key to perfect prints is to just NOT measure them when they're done. Ignorance, is science...
For sure. Design for loose fits and adjustability and don't worry about it!
@@Clough42 Make it perfect, or make it adjustable 😀
Make it mil-spec: sloppy enough to work when it's full of sand and usable as a blunt weapon in a pinch.
@@TommiHonkonen AK is Mil-Spec. Its under "Reparable with a stone" classification.
Sorry but I can only confirm !
I have never ever had a single problem 3D printing, anything! Nothing ever shrank, got stuck to the bed, left a poor surface finish! I think that is directly related to the fact that I don't have a 3D printer. If I did, I'm sure I would have every possible problem there is, and even some that are impossible!
Great Channel, I'm glad I found it, can't wait to see all your videos!!
Those 3d printed barbell weights look really realistic 👍
I've found using multiple walls (3 or four of them) massively increases rigidity and actually prints very fast. Also... adding holes. Yes: adding holes. The holes end up having the same 3/4 walls and add way more strength and rigidity than infill, while also printing very quickly.
This sounds like a good case for switching to a 0.8 nozzle. The infill being twice as wide is quite stiff and only two outer walls has the same effect as you mentioned while printing much faster.
yea, cnc kitchen has a video about this, and how it is nearly always better fkr both strength and rigidity to use more material in the walls and less in the infil. Ie. better result with the swme material. Most simple designs print faster too as you say - but thats just a bonus.
I wont go into tokcmuch detail (better to watch the mentioned video) but the gist of it is that material stresses are under nearly all circumstances high at the edges and low at the center - so generally that is where you want to invest the most material. Check out ideas like "gradient infill" to further optimize based the same principle.
I would also add that the lack of top and bottom layers here probably matters. At 0.25 and 3 layers this is a very thin piece of plastic for that amount of distance.
instead of holes, you can add some empty space inside the model that is so thin is gets filled when printed, that gives you walls inside the print, making it much stronger
@@court2379 a 0.4 can print 0.7-0.8mm wide extrusions
I've been doing this professionally for 11 years. You should never remove a part from your print bed by pushing a scraper towards your other hand trying to support it. Just remove the bed from the printer. Put it into a corner of a worktable with an high edge, or your kitchen counter and let the corner support the back edge of the print bed, and push the scraper forward, and away from yourself using both hands. You can get way more leverage and it's super safe. This is the safest way to do it. I've seen people wreck them selves bad and hit major arteries and have to go to the hospital doing what I saw you do in the video. Because sometimes the the parts pop off quick and this unexpected quick movement is what gets ya. Just looking out for you sir! Good Luck on all you do! Cheers
I sliced right through my thumb with a scraper whithin 6 months of printing lol, I think the best method is either flexible PEI sheet, glass bed put in freezer, or use a skirt in slicer
I cut into my palm with a scraper and it was shocking how much damage there was. Required stitches and still hurts to use my hand a year later
Try normal cold water. I print PLA and PETG on normal glass (not borosilica) and it never damages the glass
With Garolite you dont even need to do that. Just let it cool down a bit and the part will pop right off...
I don't ever subscribe, but not only your approach to the engineering and proofing of 3d printing (lots of hearsay and snakeoil advertising out there), not only your keen understanding of the simple truth of TRUE Carbon Fiber, and not only because of your mechanical testing...
But because you are relaxed, explanatory, and minimal background noise, loss of multiple angle cuts, and an overall lack of ADHD prodcution values you see in so many of these videos today.
Thank you man.
By the way have you seen My Tech's videos? He has amazing mechanical testing proofs
No bad comments here from me, i know guys been printing parts for years and took them 100s of prints in carbon fiber to get the results they wanted, where all learning all the time. Thanks for video great job.
I don't have a 3D printer, or any practical use for this knowledge, at least at this time, but I found myself watching this in its entirety. I think you did a great job with your presentation, and you are easy to watch, listen to, and understand. I wish that I could enjoy owning a fabrication shop like you have, and maybe someday, God willing, I will. I think I'll enjoy watching your projects in the future. Liked and subscribed.
Jilted
It’s crazy to see how far your shop has come. And now you are the person with a fancy printer
I think this is one of bests free videos from the makers I've seen. Really happy to watch professional and complete content (with aftermath, fully covered, no steps or info skipped, all seems thought of well, nothing left aside). Excellent for finding time for deadlifts! Good luck!
I was hesitant to get this material because I was told that if you didn't have an enclosed and heated print chamber you were hooped. I am encouraged to see it worked for you. I am going to order this for some industrial applications! Thanks for the video!
You can also increases the number of walls to make things stiffer. I also add ridges to flat parts, similar to what they do with car floor pans, this seems to help the most.
I agree a flange/rib on this would stiffen it right up and still allow plastic to work. Guessing he remade it in aluminum though.
DFM my friend!
You're taking a part designed in 6061 and turning it into a CF print. A little tweaking of material here and there will solve the rigidity issue, but going 1:1 on converting a part material/method rarely ever works.
Yep.
Carbon reinforced plastics generally are 20-80% the strength of 6061. But they are 1/10th as stiff, so im not even surprised.
Even if this was injection molded, i doubt it would be sufficient for this application.
I want to do more of this kind of stuff, this is right up my alley, so I have a question. How would you adjust this part to make it behave more like the aluminum copy? How much thicker? Put ribs on it in key locations to reduce flex?
@@mjodr Set infill to 100% and make it a solid part would be the first step. If you notice in his slicer he had infill set to below 50%. It makes no sense to compare a plastic that isn't solid through out to the same part in solid aluminium. Always compare apples to apples meaning your geometry needs to be identical. Always print with 100% infill for functional parts that see modest loads.
@@mjodr Exactly. Add ribs, edges, etc. Utilize more box or tube shapes rather than solid beams.
Brass inserts installed using a soldering iron work very well. I have been using NylonX for about 2 years now in the drone industry and love the stuff. If your parts are shrinking, you can adjust your slicer program to accommodate.
I use the same. Only suggestion is springing the extra few cents per. Instead of a flat bottoms, some have a nipple on one side. Self centers it when you heat it, you dont have to screw with it.
A good source for metric brass inserts?
For increased rigidity, i go for 6 walls and 50-60% infill which appears from my testing to make a significant difference in stiffness. Also, geometry matters, so i would add webs to this design. Another really enjoyable video!!
Would 100% infill give the ultimate in strength?
Hi James,
Rule of thumb - plastic thread length should be 2-3x the diameter and you will have a nice holding force. When you do the forming - lubricate the tap. Overheating deforms the plastic and sometimes leads to striping while forming.
Thumbs up for the job done 👍👍👍
I’m a total newbie to this black art, i’ve read up as much as i could take in about a lot of the mainstream printers and found the X1CC to fit the bill of what i need best (nearest thing to plug and play), your video is excellent, love your acknowledgment of the affiliation at the start then a very easy to understand offering of true and clear knowledge, far too many people have a tendency to pause too long or just constantly waffle or double up on detail where you get lost or disinterested before you even start.
Now subscribed and watching more of your experiences.
Thank you 👏
You might want to design the part so that its not just a flat plate, but to have side walls etc to add rigidity. Flat 3d printed parts usually are bendy. I also think that basic PLA is more rigid. The tougher filaments are usually that because they bend more. So better design and simple PLA might get you better results.
I agree, this part seems like a conventional machinist designed it but the process can accommodate much more intelligent and bulky design. Really not trying to criticize the designer here.
Agreed. I was planning on doing exactly that, but there are space constraints where it's going to be mounted, so there wasn't room. It turns out that's really necessary to get the rigidity for this level of force in this material, so I learned something.
In this case, space limitations on the machine precluded a more robust design with ribs or other mechanical advantage. At the moment, I'm also struggling with the need to build off the flat plate. I've been playing with support, but depending on the geometry, it can be really tenacious and hard to remove. Looking forward to trying dissolvable support so I don't have those limitations.
Good idea. I was thinking about some diagonal stiffening ribs - looks like there's plenty of clearance under the pulley.
Another interesting video, James.
@@JoeMalovich Yes, its more about the design than fancy filament. Its never going to be metal, so need to compensate for the forces the part is subjected to. You can create some really rigid parts that withstand a lot by doing that.
I think people expect a bit too much from these special filaments, while temperature & impact resistance are probably the actual real benefits compared to the humble PLA.
Very nice analysis, specially at the end, you even took the time to do a long term test, which is truly impressive, and you documented all the little issues and details that pop up during the design, printing and post-processing process, so yeah, I’m very pleased with this video and all the stuff I learned from it, great job, and thanks a lot for sharing all this info and hard work with us!!!
After hearing everybody call CF Nylon an aluminum replacement it is really nice to see somebody give it a review comparing it to aluminum, and discuss how it acts beyond "its strong hurr durr".
Thank you for this video looking at this fascinating material! I guess it's time I try out the CF nylon I got a month ago. I've just been putting it off for fears of difficulty printing and wasting money on bad prints.
I suggest you look at some other channels that actually test all the CF filaments with standard engineering tests. None of them are stronger than the base plastic, most are weaker, and frankly, no one ever called CF nylon "black aluminum". For this application, he should have milled Delrin plastic or just used aluminum, which is isotropic.
Your printed part came out very nice.
Like you the texture is nice to
I have found that Decorators Tape lets the Carbon Filament to stick the best and the parts easily come off.
Also I print with the parts fan off using Esun CF
with the bed at 45 and extruder at 247 and speed around 35 on an Anet A8 for those interested
As said don't use the standard brass Nozzles as it will cut out the hole twice the size in about an hour of use and you get a mess, so you need to use a steel or Stainless steel Nozzle .
Tip Always remove the filament by pushing it into the Hot End while it is at the high temperature from the stated heat range of the filament and pull out after use . Esun CF heat range is from 240 to 260
So you just push the filament and then pull it out.
This helps clean the Nozzle for next time
Hey, thanks for the video! I'm sure you've gotten some more experience with this and other carbon-reinforced filaments, but I thought I'd share a couple notes based on my experience of working with these materials for the past couple years as an engineering grad student (we have a Markforged printer in my lab that's basically designed to print CF-nylon, even with some additional long fiber reinforcement, and nothing else, fun but spendy piece of hardware). 1) Like a couple other folks have mentioned in the comments, cutting threads into plastic, particularly nylon-based plastics, just doesn't work all that well for all the reasons you observed. You can get a package of heat-set inserts in brass, aluminum, and even 303 stainless from McMaster-Carr for reasonably cheap (and probably cheaper elsewhere). There are tools for interfacing them with a soldering iron, but you can even just heat them up with the basic iron or a torch and drop them into the appropriately sized hole (which you may have to drill to get right or just burn through, again because of the problems you observed about getting hole dimensions right the first time). 2) I just thought I'd explain the phenomenon you showed in the "few weeks later" shot. Nylon, like basically all thermoplastics, is viscoelastic, so any 3D-printed part under a constant load will experience some level of "flow." An extreme case of that is something like a soft taffy. If you pull on it, it'll stretch out, and when you let go, it'll spring back a little, but it'll still be stretched out. The mechanism for this is the long polymer chains having a limited ability to slide over each other and rearrange under load. Quite fascinating stuff!
would ABS be less prone to "flow" ?
@@mrdot1126 ABS might be more resistant. It's generally a stiffer plastic, with rings in its chains, compared to nylon. However, there are a number of other factors, such as application temperature, amount of load, and molecular weight, which is the average length of the chains, and can vary even between two polymers with the same chemistry (i.e. two ABS's can have different properties). And ultimately, these only affect the time scale that you see it happen. Basically all polymers will exhibit the behavior on some level. It's just generally good advice that, if you have something under constant load, polymers should probably be your last choice for material. They may work for very light duty, but certainly anything that will cause them to visibly flex will cause them to permanently deform over time.
Oh, my printer is absolutely amazing, spans my whole yard, a motor over here, a frame over there, doesn't make much, but you can always find bits of it everywhere after my last disassembly. Now I have a mill and lathe, I think it's high time I put it back together again with better parts.
I really appreciate how you talked through the entire process. Solid video.
You'll learn in no time (like I did) that Nylon LOVES moisture, but the printer HATE wet nylon...
You should keep the spool in a drybox with dissecant all the time. If not you'll get all kind of problems: stringing, bad layer adhesion, poor finished parts and so on.
Great Video! I like it.
In Cura, there is "Hole Horizontal Expansion" where you set it to make holes larger. I found that hole sizes were consistently off by .25mm so I set it to .125 (radius) and it works great.
same
Hole inside diameters always end up smaller than what is modeled and this is common across the majority of 3D printers. It doesn't really have anything to do with the slicer itself.
@@internettoughguy That setting in the slicer will eliminate the problem. If you don't want to use it, then don't. Others might find it useful. I know I certainly do.
You dropped your cape, sir
I think there is a similar setting in Simplify 3D as well. Its definitely something the slicer should fix
Haha. "17:58" I ran a clapped out Anet A8 for a VERY long time, don't let anyone tell you that you need a "better printer". It all comes down to the solutions that we use. One thing that you might try doing is running an E-Steps calibration on the Extruder motor. This will get you VERY close to the result that you're after...but it won't fix the expansion/contraction issue that various materials offer. After that try printing a Negative Space Calibration tool. Think 10mm plug to fit into 4 X 10mm holes, each increasing in offset from .10 - .40. You can print this tool for different types of materials that you use in order to see what type of expansion you need. This way you can just add +X to your True dimensions. That's just my process. Love your video.
Maybe a little late for you but someone might still find it usefull: Increased infill increases the stiffness and stability of the part but whats actually even better than doing this is to change the infill pattern.
I dont know the slicer youre using but at 8:37 take a look at "Internal fill pattern" and change it from Rectlinear to something more "organic". Precisely in PrusaSlicer (Or any Fork i assume) my favorite infill pattern to use is "Support cubic infill"
I’m very impressed with your product. Nice. Also loved your comment about those commenting “why don’t you just get what I have and everything will be perfect “. That made me smile. Eat it hater’s
Use brass headset inserts for small threads, I love the ones McMaster carries!
The flanged screw-to-expand inserts work perfectly on my NylonX parts.
A straight up honest "yeah, that didn't work so good" review? Impressive.
Try annealing the part after it’s printed. This will lead to shrinkage so you will need to compensate but it will make the part much more rigid and less likely to experience creep
Another solution for the nylon adherence to the bed problem is printing a 0.3/0.6 layer of PETG to the bed and then print the Nylon above this PETG layer. This is the technique I used and the one that have given best results. Interesting thought that bed you have. Regards!
Set wall thickness at least 4 lines, for great stiffness set 6-8. Infill less important, set 15-30% or 100%. Also let the print cool down on a bed until room temperature. And do not use bottom chamfer. "Cura" can control inner holes (add or reduce separately from other sizes). Also you can just use ABS or PETG but make park more thick and it will be even better than now.
To unstick the part from the platter, squirt a bit of solvent along the edge of the part. Capillary action will suck the solvent in and under.... then prying is much, much easier. Acetone is mild stuff, I doubt it will attack the nylon. I've also seen (but not tried) air holes designed into the part, after printing you put an air gun to the holes and blast air in, it should release the part.
Great video, and I absolutely loved the ELS video.
I’d love to see more printing videos specifically with the exotic cf filaments. I’ve been wanting to get a nice printer in our shop for some time and it would be a lot easier to justify if we could make actual production parts with it rather than just prototypes.
I'll be playing with CF-PETG next week. It looks pretty compelling so far from a printability standpoint.
@quique182 Yeah tried those about 3 years ago. Just send a test cubicle out to 3d printing services. We immediately scrapped the idea after we got our cubes. I hope this gets better by time.
@@Clough42 could you try printing a knife blade from that stuff and test it that would be great 👍
I've been 3D printing in plastic for 2 years now, and the more that I look at printing precision parts the more that I conclude that prints for lost PLA casting is the best application for the tech.
It's certainly one application. It's really a matter of using the right tool for the right job. There are lots of things it doesn't do well.
The issue with small holes can be fixed in the slicer, horizontal expansion in cura.
Also layer heights are best in certain increments 2.8 would be better then 2.5.
Great video, I think I’m gonna try some of this material.
I agree. If I do .1 then every once in a while a layer is thicker. If I do .12 it's even. Stacked up rounding error I believe.
We have several Markforged Onyx One / Mark II printers with the carbon fiber plate. We use Elmer's purple water washable glue in the stick to adhere the prints to the bed. Works perfect.
A thread insert with a collar on the opposite side from the screw can hold really well in most 3D printed materials.
I often ask the same question - 3d print (easy but weak) or cnc mill (better part, more work). The lazy in me really wants to 3d print but my results are rarely worth the time, especially when the 3d part breaks in the middle of a job. For so many things in the shop the printer is awesome, but for this application I'd just mill it. Great video, thanks for sharing your experience.
"hanging "temporarily" off the front"
You know what they say, there's nothing more permanent than a temporary solution ;)
"This is just temporary, unless it works."
I appreciate the explanation for each step of the process! And to all the negative comments out there I'd like to see your videos...
Yeah the "after 1 week" image highlights just what I was thinking might be the problem. It will slowly deform under load, especially in a hot enviroment.
I just really appreciate that you showed the possible failure in the same video. That is some real 'Tegrity. You could have made two videos on an update of how it fared. You could have strung out a failed or possible failed attempt into several full-length video content. Your content is just on the fringe of what I am trying to do but I sub'd as soon as I saw the "sitting for a week/ maybe not" photo. I at least know I am getting straight answers. Kudos to you.
3d prints are definitely going to become a shop staple, no question.
They're certainly getting closer to being able to replace aluminum and steel in some applications.
Thanks for sharing what you're finding out!
Please keep doing these vids. Much appreciated! :)
Yeah maybe not steel tho... But aluminium for sure cuz you cut a lot of work going printing
Great video. Nylon X was the first Carbon Fiber filament I used with my upgraded Ender 3V2, had great results with it. I have since been messing around various other materials like PETG with CF added and ABS. I love the finish and how the CF helps to prevent sagging when doing prints. Lots of great information in all the comments here. Have subscribed, will check out the rest of the videos you have up, very practical and helpful. I have the glass plate with Creality and find glue sticks work great or hair spray with this material. Most of the carbon stuff I do is with .6mm hardened steel nozzle, I was running about 50 bed temp and 260 nozzle with NylonX with great results. My Ender3v2 has added z axis and extra motor, direct drive extruder upgrade and auto bed leveling, with filament detection added, has been my workhorse since adding several key upgrades. Agree, many comments here about adding extra dimensional pieces for added stiffness, and comment about the use of nuts pressed into the plastic, all great comments. Thank you
Try carbon fiber plate instead of glass. Bake it in the oven prior to use or buy pre preg. Gl
I found the best way to do threading in 3D prints is just to model the hole a little undersize and let the screw form the threads. It works great.
Depends on the material and geometry. I've had good and bad results doing this.
@@Clough42 Make the hole slightly smaller than a helicoil insert core, and tap it with the helicoil thread (ensuring your wall thickness is thick enough)
I use heat inserts for threading. That requires a larger hole though and sometimes that isn't optimal or there may not be sufficient clearance.
I do the same except I run a tap through the threads to chase them. I also run a higher wall count and tap the threads a lot if they're more critical and inserts are not an option.
Sometimes conceding to the mill with aluminum or another thermoplastic or piece of a homemade carbon fiber panel (made during another video talking about vacuum bagging) is really just the way. I love to print , but some things just need milled especially when 2.5d. Let the cnc mill run for an hour or two and have a perfect part. Love the video and getting a feeling for nylon/Cf filament. Thanks for the effort!
Yeah, I think the servo mount is one of those cases. Aluminum is really ideal for this application. Carbon fiber composite might also be fun.
My printer is awesome, and it prints inside holes the way I want them every single time. That is, some random rate of shrinkage. The trick is convincing yourself that's what you wanted.
In reality though, I found a small hole guage plate on thingiverse, and I just print that with the settings and material I want, measure the IDs of that, and upsize my model's holes accordingly for the post-shrinkage ID I need. Works fine for models for private use. If I publish/share the model, I adjust the holes (back) for 1:1 accuracy first, or grab the pre-adjustment iteration.
For printed parts meant to take loads and forces, I'd suggest doing custom _internal_ profiling and bracing. FDM materials are flexible, and autogenerated infill won't accommodate explicit strength and rigidity needs vs load type and directionality. When doing the design and custom/manual infill, I find it helps to think of it as if it was a stamped sheet metal hollow shell part. Design the profiles the sheet metal need for shell strength, then doodle in the manual infill for the internal bracing and beefing where neccessary.
Try this. The canned air sprays out as very cold air, try blowing the cold air around the edges of the part. It works great to release a part off of glass, might work on your base as well. It's worth a try.
Have you tried increasing the number of perimeters on the bracket? It's a good way to improve rigidity, much better than more infill. More top and bottom layers too.
Yeah Stefan on CNC Kitchen has some great testing on perimeters vs infill and so on.
The word "perimeters" must be another slicer program? I use CURA and i get instructions for only using 1 perimeters, (i build flying wings" Is the setting related to wall count? :-)
@@TheGeordietheWitchandtheWench Yeah Cura calls it "wall line count", but I hear "perimeters" being used more often. You probably know this but it's all about thickening the walls (and the top and bottom surfaces, "top/bottom thickness" in Cura) because that's where the stiffness comes from - in a simple beam, a bending load puts the bottom of the part into compression, the top into tension, and produces no stress at all along a line through the middle of the part. Increasing the number of layers around the outside of the part distributes the stress across more material so you get less strain and therefore less deflection. Increasing the infill density doesn't do as much because the stress is lower in the middle anyway.
@@cooperised Perfect explanation, thanks for clearing that up :-)
I went on a deep dive on UA-cam watching 3d printer videos. The comment at 18:00 was hilarious!! EVERY video has that person.
For the size of the holes being small your slicer should have an expansion option to help with this. I use Cura and it is called "Hole Horizontal Expansion" It took my a long time to find this setting. :) Have a good one.
Just a note on this: Many more things than small holes will be considered a "hole". It can potentially cause issues with other models, particularly ones designed with only a few layer line thickness walls. e.g. a vase designed for exactly 4 walls thickness may become 3.8 walls thick, so maydo 3 walls with non-contiguous infill in the rest.
You can also play with the thread engagement in Fusion360 but when he's doing this type of work, total thread engagement is key. A 3D printer can only do so much by nature of the layer extrusion and why he explained how the threads are printed. Good tip tho👍
S3d does have something like it called Horizontal size compensation, But it's garbage and doesn't work all that well.
Also a suggestion is go away from 3D printed threads and do brass threaded insets. I recently went this way for many things with great success.
@@compwiser1 For sure! I've heard that the ones for wood work best. I'll definitely be trying it one day...
Tip of the day: When tapping in plastic... Dip your thread tap in water before each hole :) Water is really good as lubricant in plastic, and keeps the tap from heating up and melting your plastic.
Nylon X must be dried at 70° C in the common hydrator type dryers for 18-24 hours. Your result will be much much nicer.
All hail the blue Ryobi 18V. Dad and I bought a set in the 90's and used it for home improvement contracting for fifteen years. Still have most of it. The original drill died last year. Have another. The new green Ryobi batteries are backwards compatible with the blue so bought a few of those too.
For threaded holes, I always print them at the tap drill size, then just tap them with a cut tap after printing. A spiral fluted tap meant for blind holes seems to do better than a spiral point tap that forces the chips forward.
As far a print surface, have you ever tried PEI? I have a thing sheet of PEI attached to a piece of .020" shim stock the size of my bed. I only print in PLA and NinjaFlex, so I don't know how well it works for other materials, but I've never had a problem with adhesion, and removing parts is easy because I can just flex the sheet to break them free. When the surface gets worn a bit, I just scuff it with scotchbright and it's back to new. The steel sheet is held in place by a magnet sheet on the aluminum heatbed.
That's a nice solution 👍🏻👍🏻
Once I moved to flex bed material, we never looked back, print in a wide variety of materials. You need to re-level a small amount after removing the sheet to get parts off, but that seems minor to me.
I have used Carbon Fiber Nylon to print a sheet metal dimple die. There are some here showing 3d printed press brake tooling, and sheet metal forming dies for a hydraulic press. it really opens up what a small home shop can make when you have a 3d printer and the right filament
James, this is a nice video showing off the design and testing. I think you might already be catching on, but most 3D printed fixtures aren't great for constant loads like this. Unless you have room to spare for other features to stiffen it up (which is doesn't look like you have) this would still be a temporary solution that would need to get replaced with aluminum eventually.
Mic drop @ 18:00! Great blast, an expensive piece of equipment is never needed. Experimentation is the essence of hobbyists.
I recommend threaded inserts (brass is common) when screwing into 3D printed plastic parts.
That's exactly what I was thinking. It's not metal, it should not be designed like metal.
Yes! Just make sure to get the ones designed for 3D printing, and not for injection molding, as the latter are meant to be overmolded
No, you don't need them here. They don't make the connection stronger, you only need them when you often disassemble parts.
Hey appreciate your videos... went back through your settings and a couple things come to mind. 1. For these types of parts (brackets and what not) Probably want to be running 4 perimeters and 5 top and bottom layers at a minimum. Will really help with that flex you were experiencing. Second, a HTN or High Temp CF-Nylon is more what is used for an aluminum replacement. I would try with those parameters though and see if it doesn't remove a lot of the issues you saw.
You should get a stiffer print if you select “Print every infill angle on each layer” found in the infill tab.
Very informative and no ads in the middle of the video. You have my sub
Been running a Markforged Mark 2 for the past year. It runs CF Nylon with continuous CF reinforcement. From my own testing, parts can get to Aluminum level strength. However, the CF patters need to be designed a certain way to bear the load. Since there is a lack of simulation for this, you end up printing the part three+ times to get the pattern right.
Not to mention the costs. Have always wanted one of these machines but the materials are quite pricey, even for my prototype shop.
I hate the people that always chime in and tell you how you’re marching/designing wrong….that is NOT me. That being said, your firm on dead lifting…here’s what you need to work on….j/k, I have no interest in lifting things! Great video, it definitely helps to have you working the bugs out of these things before I jump in with both feet. Glad to see you taking care of the loose details on the ELS. I have to say, I couldn’t go from the start without it being buttoned up and hidden behind the pulley cover….of course mine isn’t as nice as yours will be!
The big challenge with holes in printing is that the stl is just polygons and holes are often made up of polygons with the points on the circle rather than the edges being tangent to the circle. More points/polygons in the model export cal lower that "shrinkage".
Yea I'm pretty they addressed that in slicers a long time ago, ie fit the circle to the polygon edges and not the polygon points
Yes ur right, but... if your printer firmware is able to receive G02 and G03 commands we have the so called ARC WELDER plugin.
For CURA as well,
But can be used as a separated stand alone PYTHON routine .
It will fuse the poligons int ARCS, and will give freedom to the firmware to treat as arcs.
The advantage is to compress the file size in the serial communication between the computer and the printer (in case u use it) , and of course the quality of the surfaces is higher.
A couple things that stood out for me were: 1) print functional parts solid
2) I use thickest available pc board with copper both sides (to control surface warp). When I use a spritz of hair spray, when it cools down the part falls off.
3) use beeswax as lube when cutting or chasing threads.
The wax is not a bad idea.
"Cold flow" for Nylon is a thing, meaning that under constant pressure, Nylon tends to squeeze out or bend. For example, a screw tightened down on a Nylon washer will eventually become loose as the Nylon slowly flows up from under the screw head. Nylon is good for wear items such as gears or sliding elements, but it'll be on a case-by-case basis regarding whether it's suitable where there's constant compressive or bending force.
Also a thing for PLA or PETG.
Aka creep
For constant loads, I heard CF PC is a better choice.
I am working on 3d printable AFOs (leg braces) and have some CF Nylon on order to see how it will work. I also ordered some Taulman 910 to see how it works as well. I printed a previous design in PETG, and it wasn't up to snuff. Despite being thick enough to handle static load, cyclical loading causes stress cracks in the PETG after a single day of wear. Bummer. So I upgraded my hotend to a Hemera so I can try more advanced materials.
More walls and less top and bottom, that's how I increase strength on parts of this type.
Infill is over rated. The biggest problem is that you are printing in the air for the most part. It is far better to add more walls to the model. In my structural parts i use around 8 walls and maybe around 30% infill depending on the model. I also use lines for infill as it is the most cost effective. Also 0.26 is the best layer height for strength with a 0.4mm nozzle, higher temps also give better layer adheason. I recommend watching some CNC kitchen videos as he debunks many myths regarding 3d printing strength. Also PLA is extremely underrated,(especially PLA+) it is better than both ABS and PETG in most cases, you dont need a super fancy filament for structural parts unless you know PLA's limits arent enough, like heat or low heat warping over time.(biggest draw backs) Even if you know a PLA part will break eventually, its so cheap and easy to print a new one it doesn't really matter that much. Also it might just work better than you'd think. Also, get the part right with the cheap stuff, then use the fancy filament. I've wasted expensive filament several times because the part wasnt right.
Machinist Tip: You could have done the following for the layer height.
1/32×25.4/4=0.1984mm
OR
1/32×25.4/3=0.2646mm
At least this way, you're giving your 3D printed threads the best possible chance when chasing with the tap.
Good video! 👍
Generally, when using 3D printed parts instead of aluminum, I have chosen PETG - great strength and dimensional accuracy - I may give NylonX a try. However, none of these materials are metal - they need to be *significantly* thicker than an aluminum part if you want equivalent rigidity - especially with reasonable infill.
I picked up a roll of PETG-CF and a roll of ABS-CF to try.
yes, done some PETG stuff and it is really strong.
Want to try some sort of CF stuff one day but with have to get a better hot end.
I've printed a lot of parts to use for my little Central Machine lathe and mill. With my ptinter it may take several tries to allow for the printer and filament. Well and should I mention for altering for a better design. Most often used is a dial micrometer holder for the lathe quick chang tool post. Enjoy your video.
I have a dial indicator holder for the lathe I machined in aluminum. I printed it originally and found it too flexible. It would be interesting to try again with CF filament.
Awesome,could I reply me,I wanna talk to you
James one day you’ll be lucky enough to be like me and have a printer like mine that prints everything perfect. Just yesterday I printed a new C8 corvette. Didn’t stick to the bed and the model didn’t shrink at all.
Sounds amazing.
I think that we should compensate the weakness of this material increasing the thickness and adding some reinforcement like we do when shifting from metal to wood pieces. Great job! Thanks. May God bless you.
Full honeycomb infill will help a lot with flex/rigidity when printing plate shaped parts.
Tolerances for holes I use +0.15mm radius.
When taping multiple holes in a row I recommend cooling the tap tool every other hole. (I use a glass with water and ice). All plastics will heat a lot and if its pla or petg, the thread will be slightlly damaged when the tap tool gets hot (after 2/3 holes max) from my exp.
Thanks !!!! Just what i needed . I am also into cars for as long as i can remember . I am just starting out on 3d printing though and immediately have lot of things that one can print for the petrol heads . Thanks once again .
how i mitigate undersized holes is the following: print a test piece with 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8...n mm holes, measure how they came out, divide D(CAD)/D(measured) wich gives you a correction factor, ive pulled an average out of that, so now in fusion, i do a user parameter that is named correction with your personal correction factor, now all you gotta do when dimensioning the part in fusion is set the hole diameter times the correction factor and you will get much closer tolerances that way :) if you need it perfect, you can also fall back on the individual factors per size, but thats how ive gone about that problem and solved it satisfactory to me.
one trick i learned 3d printing is that if you tape or clamp paper to the build table the imperfections of the paper make parts stick better it also makes removing the parts easyer because they arent glued to the printer
using the first frame to edit your thumbnail. smart as hell
I look forward to trying this material...I've printed PLA, PLA+, PETG, ABS, and ASA so far and have come back to PLA+ for most needs*. I would say though that I don't think any of those, or NylonX for that matter, are a direct 'aluminum replacement' in that you can reliably take a part designed for aluminum, print it in plastic, and expect it to work. Depending on the part though, you might be able to make adjustments (make it thicker, add ribs, etc.) to design a somewhat different but very usable part for the same use case.
*I use PETG for compliant parts, and ASA for temp resistance, though those can be a hassle until dialed in. Otherwise I like PLA+ or 'Pro PLA'.
I`m just getting started in 3d printing, thanks for video on the carbon fill nylon, lots of good info. As for your threads coarse 10-24, rule of thumb with plastics, aluminum, cast iron are stronger. Thanks again have a good one.
Bed / part sticking issues / lifting and removing print parts from heated print bed. Solution:
On print bed side of part make circular recesses during the drawing that are circa 0.5mm off set, this reduces overall bed contact and assists lifting printed parts that have a large surface area off the print bed, play with this suggestion to find a sweet spot design. 👌
I might have to check nylonx out. Just a tip - I use an artist's pallet knife to get under the edge of prints. They are a LOT thinner than a click knife and, because the blade is offset, they are much easier to get under the part without scratching the surface.
Not sure if anyone else suggested it but for a new material perhaps try printing a temperature tower. Can be very enlightening for determining default print settings.
As an alternative to aluminum or carbon print I have found (at least for flat parts) laminate flooring material is great, it's cheap, comes in several thicknesses, stiff easy to machine and very flat, It doesn't hold threads very well, but that's an easy fix with a recessed nut. It's great for prototyping, what's more if you can find a person that's remodeling and tearing out some old flooring you can get it for free.
I chase my pre printed threaded holes with a tap in a drill. And, like you, I notice the tap gets hot quickly. So I turn the drill slowly and give the tap time to cool off between holes because it is easy to melt the third or fourth hole in a sequence and ruin the part.
Yeah, I have the same experience. The CF material takes this to a whole new level. I was surprised how much heat it generated.
i didnt know there was a potential shrinkage issue. i have only printed a few things and i noticed that even though i gave my part an extra like .5mm I still couldnt fit the thing in1. thanks for the lesson!
on the topic of dimensional accuracy, the calibration guide from the guy who runs the teaching tech youtube helped me quite a bit. obviously youd need to run a calibration for the filament itself, but you might give it a shot if you havent already.
Nice test! I am about do do almost exactly the same thing. One tip tho...In Fusion360 when you model in metric you can input a standard value into the box and it will automatically convert it to metric. Thought this would save you some time and thinking😄 I plan on using CFnylon for jigs and fixtures. I recently bought some HT-CF-PLA. It's cheaper and almost the same effect for jigs. I figured I could make the base of the fixture with that then have a bolt on piece made from CFnylon to withstand a little more heat. I can also print the PLA with my cheaper printer and not tie up my PRUSA which I make money on. Thanks for saving me some testing time😁👍
Brass thread inserts are your friend. Heat them up with a soldering iron, and plunge them in. It's the only thing I would use for anything that requires an appreciable thread holding power.
When priting nylon i would stongly advise to use a heated print chamber. You can make one using a small portable car heater, plywood and some tinkering with the printters mainboard.
PLA is still the king of rigidity. I just wish there was a PLA with higher temperature resistance because it melts like butter.
Regarding dimensions.. i design stuff with small holes (+10mm dia). I use the ender 3 and prints always come with shrinked holes. So i always over size holes dia by 0.2 mm in CAD. I also realized that the smaller the hole the more it will shrink and vice versa.
Great video. I haven't used anything but ABS in my printer but something I do that fits this application would be using 10/32 inserts instead of trying to thread into plastic.
Two of my absolute favorite engineering materials, combined. Nylon and carbon fiber. Ranks amonst Inconel and titanium for me. Main reason I'm interested in 3d printing - printing with Nylon and ABS. PLA does not really even feature, except for cheap disposable items, or prototyping. I'm impressed, and looking around for *that* filament. All the best, and thanks again!
PLA is more useful than you might imagine, the CNC Kitchen channel has done a lot of tests and PLA ends up being one of the strongest filaments. It also helps that it's dead simple to print nicely. My printer (ancient) was designed explicitly for ABS, but these days I mostly print eSun PLA Pro, with some PETG and some TPU. The PLA just prints so nicely and smoothly and reliably.
If you really want ABS, I've heard ASA is basically the same properties but less toxic - ABS printing releases and breaks down styrene which is apparently very bad for breathing.
You'll see a lot of different opinions about PLA, and I think it mostly comes down to different ideas of what "strong" means. PLA is definitely more rigid than ABS or PETG, but because of this, it's also more brittle, so ABS tends to work better in applications that need to withstand impact, even though it bends sooner than PLA would. PETG has much stronger layer adhesion than either ABS or PLA, so in applications with thin walls or when you need strength across the layer lines, it's often a better choice, even though it flexes more than ABS and will take surface damage more readily. For what I do, I appreciate the surface lubricity of ABS. PLA-on-PLA moving parts tend to gall and abrade very quickly, where ABS fares better, and Nylon is even better. So while PLA might be "stronger" than nylon for some definition of strong, I'd rather have Nylon gears in a gear train properly designed for the properties of the material.
I originally thought I would be quickly migrating to some kind of Nylon since I was familiar with that family of plastics but after 4 years of 3D printing I still haven't bought Nylon. I am onto Ninjatek Armadillo and Form Futura TitanX which is a performance modified ABS. It's my go to filament and is dead easy to print and drill. The Armadillo is OMG tough, unfortunately including trying to file or sand it.
You might want to look into using some brass heat-set inserts; they hold threads a lot better than tapping straight into the plastic. You can press them in with a standard soldering iron, or turn a custom soldering iron tip to press them in.
My wife also says that the spatula tool or a flexible painter's palette knife is the right tool for getting parts off the 3D printer bed. Those are the same tool she uses professionally in her 3D print lab.
M.