How To 3D Print Gears Like a Boss
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2024
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3D printing has revolutionized the way we think about gears and gearboxes. With the right knowledge, you can now 3D print gears and 3D print gear mechanisms that are functional and reliable. One of the best things about 3D printing gears is the ability to adjust the gear ratio to match the specific needs of your project.
When it comes to the strength of 3D printed gears, there have been many concerns in the past. However, the strength of 3D printed gears has significantly improved with the advancements in materials and printing technology. With the right combination of material and printing process, 3D printed gears can be just as strong as traditional gears.
If you're looking to get started with understanding gears and mechanical principles, 3D printing gears is a good place to start. You can learn how to design 3D printed gears using popular CAD software like Fusion 360, which has a gear generator tool available as a plugin called ‘GF Gear Generator’. Alternatively, you can use FreeCAD to design 3D printable gears.
When it comes to materials, Polymaker Polymax PC is a popular choice for those looking to 3D print gears. Polymax PC, with its high strength and durability, is perfect for printing gears with 3D printer.
In this video I talk to you about how to design and 3D print gears that are optimised for strength and durability. This is based on my experience with 3D printed gears during my Raptor 2 project. I discuss the various types of gears available such as spur, helical and herringbone. I also discuss the importance of print orientation when 3D printing gears. This video is sponsored by Polymaker. I used PolyMax Polycarbonate to 3D print the gears shown in this video.
To summarise, with the correct tools and materials, you can easily 3D print a gearbox or 3D print a planetary gearbox that is functional and reliable. Whether you're just starting out or looking to improve your existing designs, the options for 3D printing gears are endless. In addition to the advice that I provide in this video, don't hesitate to experiment with different materials, like ‘Polymaker's Polymax PC Max’ and ‘PolyMaker PolyMide’.
00:00 Intro
00:45 Why I Designed and 3D Printed Gears
02:10 How To Design Gears
02:33 Different Types of Gears
04:04 Importance of Print Orientation
05:48 Re-enforcing Smaller Gears
06:06 Full set of Printed Gears
06:28 Which material should you use?
06:53 PolyMax Polycarbonate
07:26 Sponsor - Thank you!
07:56 Bearings and Lubricant
08:12 Outro
08:35 Support Me
#3dprinting #CAD #gears
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I would recommend going 95% in stead of 100. reason being that if you have a tiny bit of overextrusion in your printer, this will compensate, and avoid outer layer blobbing, as this will make the gear teeth nearly unusable, or at least time consuming to clean up. Another reason is that when force is applied to the structure there is nowhere for the force to distribute if it's all solid, but with tiny gaps the material has a tiny space to deform slightly, mitigating some of the force running through it.
Good idea! Might also be worth printing the outer perimeters first
If you have over extrusion, try adjusting your e-steps
this hasn't been an issue in a long time
You’re right at the first part, but the part about forces distributing is complete nonsense. A 100% solid part will always take more load than something that is not 100% solid
@@jr764 Well, not always. For example, for parts that have an angle that is less than 90° have ofter an circle cut off where the angle is, because if not forces will rip the material where the acute angle is. When you cut off a circle in place of this angle, you will make a better repartition of forces and hence avoid ripping. So by removing some of material you can actually make it stronger.
Also, if you plan on driving offroad, I would definitely recommend swapping the herringbone gears for some doublehelix gears. Any dirt or substance that gets into the gears gets dragged into the centre and quickly binds up the gears, the double helix solves this because there is a gap for the dirt/grime to be pushed into. :)
Also, yes there is a difference between herringbone and double helix. And that is what I listed in the above comment. A herringbone is simply a specific type of double helix gear :)
Excellent point. Maybe an idea for Raptor 3 ;)
Question. If dirt and grime is push up one direction on a helical gear, would going in reverse push the grime in the other direction? And, if so, could you orient a herringbone gear to push grime out of the center when the car drives forward? (Since it will be going forward 90% of the time)
Same with those outrunner motors. They dont really like dirt. Some sheilds would be a good idea.
@@lio1234234 He mentions this at 3:39..
I really like this focused-collection-of-findings format. Not so much a "tutorial" that focuses on one project (just one point in a design space), but an attempt to report on how to generalize a particular technique. It would be nice if other maker-focused youtubers adopted such a format, so we could have a library of such hard-won info, organized not by integrated project but by technique.
I often ask the question why hardware/mechanical design can't get the same kind of love / support that electronics and software does. I generally thought maybe it's too specific in nature but you're right this video communicated generally
Love your content - no egocentric b.s. Just the interesing stuff. Coming up for reirement I bought a 3D printer and Wow! You don't even have to leave the house to go on a big adventure. Been subbed for a while and come to you first when I want facts. Please keep it up, you're a terrific teacher.
Thank you for the kind words Steven, much appreciated👊🏻 I agree, it is incredible what we can do from the comfort of our homes these days!
Please tell me is 1:1 greas tevhinel
Excellent delivery:
- calm, but not boring
- informative, but not overwhelmingly
Thank you for the video! Really enjoyed it.
*Engineer here* You're mods for strength and print clarity are next level. If you are not already a CAD drafter, you should consider it. Some companies do not require a FE to draft.
What search terms does one use to find the jobs?
@@snorttroll4379 CAD drafting
@@snorttroll4379 Designer or Drafter, but more often search for the CAD software name (Solidworks, Creo, Fusion360, etc) for the best results. (I used to be one).
Really impressed by the engineering detail packed into this video - learned a lot.
I learned that there are different types of gears and why some of them are stronger than others. Good to include this sort of thing.
wonderful project 👏😎
oh hey :)
Thank you so much for the video on how to 3d print gears! Very straight to the point and but very detailed.
Im really glad i found this channel. A mastermind and easy to understand. Cheers m8.
This is seriously so helpful. Thank you!!
I greatly appreciate your taking the time to experiment and examine the possibilities of printing gears on a 3D printer. I have been thinking about the use of 3D printed gears in the future. My hesitency is due to the problems one gets into when producing them by any other method and comparing those issues with using various materials and 3D printing of gears. 3D printing is a new and experimental area of fabrication and so much simpler. Since it is possible to design any gear one can think of on a CAD program and rely on a 3D printer that is sophisticated and accurate enough to produce that design - well this is fantastic as I can see it. And that is the key to this - the CAD program and accurate 3D printer technologies. I didn't know if they had become available yet. I"m glad to see people like you are able to prove the subject. I will subscribe and follow along to see what develops in your shop. Thanks.
PS. One shortcoming that I is a problem for me is that I'm not good at creatively
designing a roubst gear shape using the CAD programs. I have tinkered about with some of them but I have not become proficient with any versions yet. I was hoping that by waiting for some period that some design libraries would become available to satisfy my experimentation curiosity. Good luck to you for experimentations that produce the quality that satisfies both of our needs. Bye for now.
Solid video, thank you for the awesome information. You gave me some more ideas for the mini extruder I am trying to build. Thank you
Great Video! I`ve also landed on Polymaker PC Max after experimenting with Taulman Alloy 910 before, but i never put as much care into it as you. But i can vouch for their durability - i made a inner gear ring design that transferred the power of 3,5kW motors on an electric mountainboard and the gears never failed!
Excellent advice, very well presented and scaffolded. Thank you!
One thing I like is how you go from the drawing board to design the part and going to the manufacturing, where you describe how you went through the analysis of on printing the part and provide details around each of the components needed to be reviewed and looked at having the proper parameters to print the parts that would be under a large amount of stress. Typical most people would just print the parts and slap it on the RC vehicle and do not understand why the plastic part broke. I like to see how you would design a part and go through the process of printing that part on a 3D printer and what methods you use to make sense to print the part so that it would print as you would expect it to be.
You deserve more subscribers
Really happy I discovered your channel ! Fantastic advice !!
Great tips I learned today! Thank you, chief!
This was an amazing video, keep them coming !
Love the reinforcing technique!
Thank you for this video. I learned a thing or two :D today.
I like the fact that you are using roller bearings for your gears that are in direct contact with the motor. There is no need to use ball bearings because the forces acting on the gears in radial not axial. Plus like you said you will get less wear.
Very informative, I learned more about 3D printed gears in ten minutes here than in my entire mechanical design program at school.
Wonderful video! Might I suggest a solution your axel strength issue? Add fillet between your axel and the gear face if you have enough room, even a small 2-3mm fillet can exponentially reduce the stress riser created by that shoulder. Excellent work!
Very nice, I like your way of thinking! I will take it into account in my projects. Thank you 😉
awesome info. brought me up to speed so fast. thanks. great tip on the fusion add on. Cheers.
Great video with perfect level of detail
Hi, great video! Really liked the design and the comment about splitting the shafts! From your experience - what module of the gears worked best for your printer - how small can you get? Any suggestions for the glues used on the splitted shafts?
Thanks for this. Great job and very informative
Well done. Thanks mate. I appreciate the gear info.
Great tips, I found using nylon filament is better for strength and its much more forgiving and does not chip nearly as much as other filament I tried.
Build an enclosure for your printer, upgrade hot end as needed, put in a direct drive, and print in PC (Polycarbonate). When tuned right the results are genuinely incredible. Extremely strong.
Can this be done on and Ender 3 pro?
Very brand new to the 3d printing world.
@@pogi1803 of coruse it can be done on any printer but it needs its personalised modifications
Awesome!! Thanks!!
@@pogi1803 my printer is an ender 3 pro
@@pogi1803 upgrades will take time and money however. To print PC you'd need an all metal hot end like the micro swiss, or if you want a direct drive extruder as well get a hemera. You'll need to make some changes to your firmware to accommodate the new hot end. Get an enclosure for the ender 3 on amazon. I'd say that's the minimum requirements
This was very helpful. Subscribed and thumbs up.
Liked-Subscribed-Notified. Very informative. Great video style. Keep up the great work!
Thanks very much for such an informative video. I'd love to see a video like this about belt drives and 3d printed sprockets too.
You're welcome Paul, thank you for watching!
I have no idea how I got here or what’s going on, but I am LEARNING and ENTRANCED.
Having experimented with 3D printed gears playing with the OpenRC F1 car (by D. Norée), I have to say, Herringbones are definitely way to go for 3D printing. They’re substantially quieter too.
Love your content by the way! Subscribed ✅
Great video, thank you. I seem to recall that the Citroen badge is based on the herringbone gear which they pioneered the use of in production cars.
That is true!
Awesome presentation!
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing
Amazing content 👍🏾
Thanks for this
Great tips... thanks
great video. Going to need to watch your others on modelling gears in Fusion 360. Newbie for this sort of thing.
Great points on filament alignment. I work in the Gear industry and your explanation of the Gear types was spot on. I am new to 3D printing and this answered some questions I had. Have you ever done a Bevel Gear?
Nice build. Good advice.
Just a note Herringbone gears are actually quite a bit stronger than helical, because the teeth have that corner in the middle.
Thanks man this was very interesting
After I builded 2 cars form 3Dsets I thinking about to design my own RC car and because I want to make some type of crawler, this video is realy helpful for me. Thanks a lot ! 😊
wonderful project~
Cool video. Nice development of your car.
May God bless you and your gears.
Great video!
Thanks for sharing your experence with all of us :-)
You're most welcome, thank you for supporting me🙏🏻
Thank you so much for sharing your hard work. You are appreciated, my man.
I appreciate that! Thank you for the kind comment.
great video! very informative
I 3d printed a speedometer gear with ASA for my Honda transalp 650 two weeks ago and until now it works flawlessly. Let's hope it lasts. Let's see.
Nice video 👍
Nice! Thx!
was having problems with axles as well, but my solution was using nylon. less hassle than glueing them together ;)
keeping a spare nut or to on the heated bed and filling that when you purge can be fun & produce useful quick generic bits after smoothing too, dip your old stranded wire in dissolved scrap plastic and stick that in your bolts as a core infill etc, etc..
Very interesting; I love what you did with the smaller gears by driving a screw through the center to reinforce them "along-the-printed-layers". However; since you have such a keen insight into the structural integrity of printed parts I was wondering why didn't you try the same thing with the dog-bones as you did with the smaller gears? Never the less; you are, definitely; someone to look forward to watching on youtube. Vantastic workmen ship and thank you for your brilliant insight on gears.
I know your Q was from years ago but I think he didn't need the support on the larger gears because they rotated at a much lower RPM so reinforcement wasn't needed.
Outstanding. Good luck with the design/prototype. 73
Thank you very much, very useful information! +
5:12 you could make an internal structure within the axis, with the shell tool or something similar, such that the axis is now built with walls instead of plain infill and you can increase the amount of walls, it would make the structure stronger
Great video!
Excellent video-, i found my Wood working background helped a lot in working out the best origination for printing parts that are under a heavy load, Simply because the the Grain of the wood is like the layer lines in printing-.
Thanks for the Recommendation on Polymaker Filaments-.
Great content!! We really need 4th axis filament winding type printers for parts like this. Could then print the axles and torsion tubes around a removable mandrel using vcarve or similar.
Pretty cool!
great video bud! i'm super jealous, that rc car looks like a beast. =D
I'd suggest trying PC+PBT for the gears. It's available from Push Plastic, and probably other places. It's got the good strength from PC, but also has added self-lubrication features, and is a bit more ductile which might help on shock. I've had luck printing it on a PCB-heater bed, with an all-metal E3D V6, with just a trash back over my printer to keep the heat in. xD
Nylon works beautifully with gears too. Taulman 910 has given me amazing results.
That red audio interface in the back on the desk was a steal back in the day, probably still is. My friend uses one when he makes his music, afaik. He got it was back when it came out.
Your content improved my knowledge.
I am not surprised by the fact that your small spur gears worked better after you fitted them with steel screws in them because the big big double helical gears had enough material surface area to distribute the torque tension on all over its surface during constant rotational load tension.
However, the smaller Double helical gear didn't have the material mass to handle the vibration, rotational tension and the motor torque, and wheel motion while moving the heavy RC car.
The added steel screws to the middle of Small double helical gears gave it the extra structural rigidity to allow the gears to compress and decompress onto and also handle the torque of the motor rotation to the wheels very well.
Since the gear's high rotation along with the RC Car weight would have generated more than enough strain and heat on the Small Helical gears to break them apart
[Simple fact the more surface area a gear on any material has the better heat dissipation the gear will manage to maintain but if the gear is made of plastic and has to be quite small then adding a steel or stainless steel screw that can absorb and handle the heat and high load on the gear then the lack of surface area on the small gear to handle the heat dissipation could be manageable and easy to deal with when the gear is at Load and motion].
Cool project!
Regarding improvements, look into "beaking PETG". Basically printing 100% infill and baking it in an oven (inside of salt powder), to get solid plastic part.
Don't the parts warp some despite the salt packing?
So lile table salt and heat to mwlting point?
Engineering wise I highly agree with your advice on stronger gears. The only other thing that could possibly help is breaking down the gear reduction over multiple gears, similar to a counter shaft in a gearbox or planetary gear set.
Or though given that it’s rc applications it would be a rather tight fit in a chassis.
First time watching your video. Sub and will watch more! Thanks
I loved this video!
Thank you
Great video! I am getting started in robot combat and have been looking at 3D printing gears for my robot's drive trains.
Have you tried using Nylon (either pure Nylon, or Nylon blended with Carbon Fiber or FIberglass), or even TPU to reduce shock back to the motor?
thanks
Nice one!!!
cool stuff! Wondering if you've every worked with Taulman Alloy 910? I haven't used it in such a rigorous application as R/C gears, but in my experience it's wonderfully rugged. Performs sorta like ABS and PETG combined (but it's nylon) if that makes any sense.
great vid!
I am a newbie to 3DP. Regarding the couplers/drive-cups that you printed, what is the purpose of printing two separate halves and gluing together? Is there any way to print these type of parts as one piece? I need some similar plastic drive cups, except the ones I need have a hex extension with female threaded end for the wheels to attach directly. Any insights much appreciated.
clever idea to print the axles in other orientation for max strength
Great videos Bro¡¡ How do you get that accuracy? especially the inner and outer of circles. It is almost impossible to achieve that in my 3d printer. Could you give some tips? Thanks
Thanks.
I am not even close to expirianced in printing gears, but in my little experience I found it is a good idea to use rafts. This way you do not risk warps at the edges.
You could chamfer the bottom edge very slightly in Fusion so the elephant's foot effect just pushes it out closer to being straight.
I like how at 5:32 you show the area of the piece that was printed while talking about the area of the same piece that was glued as if they were the same lol
They are the same, you can see the line where I glued them together
I was a little surprised to see you are running the roller bearings without some kind of inner race. Did I miss it, or is the material holding up OK without one?
Very informative. How do I back drive a worm gear?
Any experimentation with nozzle sizes? What nozzle did you use?
Very nice video I have learned a lot thank you, I am new for 3D
printing, I have a same 3D printer I am trying to design a small gear
for my old SONY walkman it requires a very strong gear to handling a
large torque from the motor, could you please provide the correct
settings for the ENDER-3 printer? I am using PLA.
I'm a racepilot in 1/8 gte. What i want to ask you is how sensitive the fishbone gear is to grit particles coming from the track. 1/8 gte is raced on tarmac and is similar to a gocarrack but much shorter. We run open gears to cool down the diffs. all gears are made of highgrade steel and standard straight module 1 teeth. The ony gear we could 3d print would be the main spur gear with is driven by the motor pinion gear which is always a module 1 pinion aand extremely hard steel. PLastic gears are often used for the main pinion gear and i would say the are always made from reinforced nylon. cf or glasfibre and 8mm wide to take att grit particle or 2. The output is 2700w or so from the motor. the weight is 3800g minimum for the car. top speed is 110 kph.the issue is than the track is surrunded by grass lawn so when leaving the track (unintentionally) we get grit on the track that might upset the gears if made in plastic. 1/8gte is of couse 4wd with a cneter diff or a spurgear connected to rear and front diffs. the diffs are oilfilled to get the correct response. and the diffs get hot. Being an egnineer aswell as the goto guy for 3d printing on a school in sweden. i See potential för 3d printed gear both for racing and for students. I have been contemplating 2 or 4 motors instead of on a a projekt. just to get rid of a motor in the center 90 degrees off. This create inertia twisting the car. when 2 motors front and rear would make a better sollution. But i would us inrunners beacuse of reduced inerta and better power to weigt ratio. The escs are 180a to 220 amps a still everything gets hot. I'm guessing high temp material is the only way for a GTe car. For offroading i see an even bigger issue for the typ of car you have built. I race 1/8 buggies too... and there we always ha built in gears. the same motors are used 4068- to 4074 sensored motors. But gte takes alot more power to be competive with turbo. Heat is the worst danger to motors and esc
Great video Thanks!
I got to know more about the great material with this video, it's possible to share your RC car project?
Polymaker ASA is good but a pain to dial in the settings and try to prevent warping. I have enclosure and I use stick glue too. What are you ideal temp settings.
How did you mount the gears to the motors
Is there a way in FreeCAD to tamper the two outside surfaces of the tooth on a sprocket so fits into the chain better while it rotates?
great video
Awesome!