They're awesome TV's (I own one). Definitely not even close to "the best" for me though in my collection. Color calibration on any Wega is a nightmare, and you hit a point usually, especially when trying to calibrate it alongside RGB modded sets, that you just have to accept it's colors as "good enough". I've gotten mine mostly dialed in, but reds are a nightmare to work with on these sets, throws off your blues too trying to do fixes on the red. I have mine on my "TATE cart" with 2 other RGB modded Trini's. All 3 in TATE mode :)
I think that's the one I had, or something very similar, and it was glorious. Edit: In fact, I think it was maybe the Sony FD Trinitron WEGA KV 32FQ70 32 CRT Television, as that looks the same with the same stand and all, at least in the picture I'm seeing online.
@rmuns1262 I prefer the 13” Tube, but the 20” is almost just as good. The 13” was the very last Sony made and then the 20” was still produced until 2004 (pretty sure). The 2004 model 20” and this 2002 KV-13 I consider to be their very best sets. The 2002 20” is a great set, but I just see the 13” as being the grail of Sonys sets for the quality of the build, the inputs, and the better options for fine tuning.
So I just picked up this exact tv the other day at a garage sale but the component connection has a really warm tint to it. I’m testing on Zelda oot and the composite ports just have a much clearer picture. I know that shouldn’t be right, any tips?
My only suggestion other than to start wildly recapping the set, it to get inside of it, and clean the component ports using contact cleaner (the ports but mainly the general area on the board, so you can make sure that something isn’t making a connection when it shouldn’t be.), and also take photos of caps that look a little “spicy”.
They're awesome TV's (I own one). Definitely not even close to "the best" for me though in my collection. Color calibration on any Wega is a nightmare, and you hit a point usually, especially when trying to calibrate it alongside RGB modded sets, that you just have to accept it's colors as "good enough". I've gotten mine mostly dialed in, but reds are a nightmare to work with on these sets, throws off your blues too trying to do fixes on the red. I have mine on my "TATE cart" with 2 other RGB modded Trini's. All 3 in TATE mode :)
That wolf has a better voice than me
I think that's the one I had, or something very similar, and it was glorious.
Edit: In fact, I think it was maybe the Sony FD Trinitron WEGA KV 32FQ70 32 CRT Television, as that looks the same with the same stand and all, at least in the picture I'm seeing online.
Those very last SD CRTs they produced were pieces of art, essentially no matter the model!
Nice, picked up a similar one for $10
That was a great deal, got mine for free! 😊
Literally just picked this up for $180usd the other day! I love it but I'm almost wondering if I should've got the 20" instead...
Did you get an option for the 20”? I’ve owned one.
@@kieranbennett166 Yeah same exact TV as this funnily enough just the 20" version. Did you prefer 20" or this 13"?
@rmuns1262 I prefer the 13” Tube, but the 20” is almost just as good. The 13” was the very last Sony made and then the 20” was still produced until 2004 (pretty sure). The 2004 model 20” and this 2002 KV-13 I consider to be their very best sets.
The 2002 20” is a great set, but I just see the 13” as being the grail of Sonys sets for the quality of the build, the inputs, and the better options for fine tuning.
@@kieranbennett166 Appreciate the in depth information my friend! Looks like I made a good choice then
Of course, you got Sony’s best consumer sets. Enjoy it!
So I just picked up this exact tv the other day at a garage sale but the component connection has a really warm tint to it. I’m testing on Zelda oot and the composite ports just have a much clearer picture. I know that shouldn’t be right, any tips?
My only suggestion other than to start wildly recapping the set, it to get inside of it, and clean the component ports using contact cleaner (the ports but mainly the general area on the board, so you can make sure that something isn’t making a connection when it shouldn’t be.), and also take photos of caps that look a little “spicy”.