Your videos are very calming so I tried to watch while going to sleep. The problem is, I just end up watching the whole video and then one or two or 10 more
Thank you and I'm pleased to hear that my ASMR approach to model making is err... helping you get to sleep haha. Sorry for also making them slightly addictive. Thanks for watching :)
I've been working on model for 3 months now and I think this is gonna be my next kit. I'm very happy with the last kit I did and finally finished one without scratches in the paint of strings of cement hanging off the canopy
Best of luck with your next build. As long as you learn something from each time you make a model and keep trying out new things you're heading in the right direction. Thanks for watching :)
Very useful indeed sir. explaining the metallic "touch" is exactly what I have been looking for. for my HobbyBoss 1/48 P51D. A great video, result and thank you.
I absolutely love your videos. I needed a hobby and have decided to start making and painting models and will be treating myself to my first kit and following your spitfire instruction video. I obviously expect mine to be a disaster but I'll get there 😊
@@TheInnerNerdive recently worked for a design studio. it was amazing making bronze coffee tables and furniture. the bronze table took months and sold for 200k. i got the job i think when i told the designer in theinterview i make kits. im still explaining to him to use model kit products like mr surfacer for his 3d print mock ups.
Hi Mate Digger from Down Under here. Very pleased to see your expertise on this model, as I happened to have started a 1/48 scale kit in prep to hit up the Tamiya 1/32 P51D. But had parked it for a few months, which I intend to pick up this evening for a go using your excellent tips and hints;-) oink, tony
Hi Digger, best of luck with your P-51 build. The Tamiya kit is meant to be a beast and great kit to build! Pleased to hear this video has helped you get back to it once again :)
First off, love your content. In no small part due to your P38 video, I picked up modeling again during the pandemic after about 40 years. I had saved alot of my tools from my childhood and got to bring them back out after all this time. I am very close to being done with the P38 that took a lot of inspiration from yours. One thing that I am confused about is how you deviate from the given instructions effectively. Maybe its just experience and plenty of preplanning but I found that I tended to miss things and couldn't go back to address it because it was too late. Anyway, cheers from the US and post more often :)
That's a good idea, I always struggle to get good canopies after masking for so long. Useful if the kit has spares! Thanks and thank you for watching :)
Very nice work! I'm the process of making one now for my uncle who is ex airforce. One thing I have read from Shepard Paine was to heat and then smash a tad the bottom of the wheels to simulate the weight of the plane. I'm honestly not sure if that's correct or not since I am a filthy casual. Very nice work again, if mine turns out half as good as yours he'll be happy indeed!
Thank you, and yes you can use that technique to et a weighted look on the tires. Just be careful not to distort the hub whilst you're at it. Best of luck with your build and thanks for watching:)
Just discovered your channel. I love the systematic approach and all the details , such as airbrush pressure, that novice modellers such as I angst over. Thanks very much and keep em coming
Hello and welcome, thank you for finding me out here :). I'm always looking for ways to include the things I wanted to know when I started out. Thanks for watching, hope you'll stay :)
Yes it's a scratch that needs itching every time I see it there... I've not heard good things about the Revell Tornado though so I'll have to take some brave pills before starting it I think. Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Really nice build! That kit is in my stash also. (ASfter I build about 3 of the 1/48 Airfix Mustangs!)NOT a Criticism, but there are one or 2 small pointers: The Later wartime Mustangs were built with only the Rear (Wingspar) wall part of the Landing gear bay painted in Zinc Chromate Yellow as the factories were pumping them out and needed to cut the time manufacturing too. The rest (Roof and Forwards walls) and struts were left unpainted. Somne ground crews would paint the bay after the first major maintenance overhaul... if the aircraft lasted that long, and usually in ZC-Green (Which was ZC-Yellow plus 15%-20% black. The undercoat chart you showed is a copy from North American Aviation papers and shows the different methods/components used to smooth and fill - (Not the actual colours themselves - just a representation of them). Over that base went standard grey primer and then a topcoat of dull Silver Dope/Paint. Apparently it was a "Fun" job to manually sand the wing back to NMF....post war. ALL Mustangs were made with the wing Fillers and Primers applied including the Early Allison engined ones. (P-51, 51A, A-36 and exports to the UK.) BTW, in case you wonder, the Airfix Mustang has good options, is easliy built, accurate (IMHO a real good deal as it is better than the 90s era Tamiya kit in some ways) and kit A-05138 (The one without the tail fillet - P-51D-5) still has BOTH tail fillets included, the factory-fitted standard and the Field-fitted Fillet colloquially referred to as the "Swayback" as it has a slight curve up to the fin Leading edge... and in 1/48 it is REALLY hard to tell them apart!)
Sorry if this is a stupid question but I’ve never been 100% clear on this. So the top AND bottom surfaces of the wings were painted with silver dope, right? What about aircraft such as Lou IV with painted upper surfaces? Was that put on over the silver in the field? Also what about the tailplanes, were they painted silver also?
@@iannicholls7476 Most if not all D models were delivered silver/NMF from the factory and the camouflaged ones were painted after arrival in the UK. Some units (eg the 357FG) had stocks of RAF paints found on their new base (ex RAF) and used those, in other units the painting was done with standard USAAF colours, but the underside was often left silver/NMF.
Thanks for the info. As I said right at the start of the video I'm not a P-51 expert at all so this has heled, info I'd have taken years to find I think. Thanks for watching :)
Hi Matt, great video as ever, really enjoyed it, great job. If they were the new decals, you did a great job, they settled down really well. Loving the stand, wouldn’t be without it now, and thanks for the extra part, delivered in the week 👌 Jase 🇬🇧
i love watching your channel mate. i had a break making kits but watching this i cant wait to start again. ive got a bunch of boxes to work through. thanks for inspirational uploads
Thanks Liam. Best of luck with your build, I can recommend these AK Xtreme metals when you're ready to get some metallics. Alclad are also great but stink a bit compared to these ones. Thanks for watching :)
Enjoyed your video, ordered your model stand immediately ;). Really appreciate your remarks about using simple alternatives to the more expensive branded stuff. Nice to see how 'universally' one weathering product can be used for a whole model.
First time I heard anyone explain how you need to combine acrylic varnish with enamel washes (and vice versa). Everyone making tutorials skip this explanation, I've come to understand they take it for granted you'll use an acrylic varnish and then go in with enamels. But when people start out and buy stuff they aren't as knowledgeable and end up trying to work with what they have, which can make their life very difficult. In my case I bought two cans of acrylic varnish from Vallejo from the only modelling shop nearby, and when I looked for a pin wash, they only had acrylic. In the end I had to make my own washes, enamel and oil based. To make matters worse, varnish sprayed from a can cannot be applied thinly, meaning it's hard to preserve fine surface details for the upcoming wash. I guess it's all part of the learning process.
Ive just been notified of this even though I'm subed, In anycase I'm looking forward to this build as this kit is currently in my local hobby store and if it's still there in a couple of weeks on my way home I'll be picking it up.
Good morning Nerd, the P-51 turnec out perfectly, but then thst is how you model, there was just enough weather etc, I did like what you done with the cockpit floor, all the very bedt to you and your family for the upcoming holiday season and a safe and Happy New Year, bedg regards from a Kiwi living in Australia
Me too! I want to really try to make more videos but my projects keep getting bigger and bigger. Armour model next, they're usually a little quicker. But thank you for remembering me and coming back for the new videos. Thanks for watching :)
really nice video, thanks fo getting back to me about the compressor. I just ordered a workstand using your discount code, thankyou, happy christmas and new year.
One place you can save some cash is your choice of flexible trim tape, like you used on the canopy. Instead of that overpriced stuff you got, just go to anywhere they sell automotive paint and look for pin stripe tape. It is exactly the same, if not better and way cheaper!
I love the tones you got and the overall finish.2 things though. (To me anyway. Lol) need some spray 9ff the tail wheel. And the areas around the wing panels where the guns and ammo are loaded. Either way, great job.
Nice work! I just finished this kit not too long ago. I built The Tomcat. The only issue that I found with this kit was how the wings fit to the fuselage. It was rather difficult to get them to set correctly.
Just be aware that Mustang wings were not left in natural metal, but rather, painted with an aluminium oxide finish, similar to the RAF's High Speed Silver.
Yep, the wings are painted with two different types of metal paint to replicate this. The fuselage is also different as this was an area left in its natural state. Thanks for watching :)
I'm quite surprised that modellers are still using black as a base for metallic paint. I thought that myth was dispelled years ago. Nice work by the way, also nice to see a NMF P-51 model with the correct factory painted wing areas - often missed out on some builds.
I've done direct comparisons of gloss black base vs. regular grey primer and there is a difference for sure, even the paint manufacturers recommend you do so. Anyway, something I always do and the gloss helps highlight any flaws over matte primer before hitting it with metallic. Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Just subscribed to you! Quick question; you didn’t mention the metal paint that you used on the majority of the fuselage. Was it the standard aluminum or was it the polished aluminum paint?
Thank you and welcome! Yes the footage of this part was bad so I didn't use it, but you're right *Standard Aluminium was used for the main area of the fuselage*, then White Aluminium for the wings. Details with Duraluminium, Stainless Steel and Steel.
@@TheInnerNerd At first, I thought the whole fuselage was polished aluminum before I painted my P-51, but when I did some research, the wings, and the elevators were airbrushed with silver paint.
Great build, the NMF and weathering is spot on! But one detail sticks like a sore thumb, I think You installed the tailwheel the opposite way (it shouls be more to the rear of gear bay) and the tail sits very low because of that, hope it's not too late to fix it :)
Your right in that it should be towards the rear of the bay and when you watch him install it at 20:36, it is correctly placed at the rear of the bay but then when you look at the finished model it is at the front. Strange.
Thank you. Yes the tail wheel is in the correct position but it broke whilst I was photographing it, only just noticed when I read your comment and is now fixed. Thanks for watching :)
Nice work on the P51. I am having difficulty getting to your web site. Seem the link is gone or broken. I really would like to get one of those model stands for painting.
I've been really enjoying these videos lately mate. Love how thorough you are with all the steps ans it amazes me how well it comes out. I personally brush paint and for Christmas I have been thinking about buying myself an airbrush, which one do you have or what would you reccomend?
Thank you. I would recommend a cheaper one to start with. I had a Sealey AB9321 and it lasted years before I upgraded to my Harder & Steenbeck Evo Silverline. Thanks for watching :) www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637173584/gravity-feed-air-brush-kit
Thank you. Yes a lay a mist coat down first to 'bed in' on the model. Then after that's kinda dry (like leave it 2 mins) then apply a slightly thicker coat which will cover the part suitably. The last coat can be thinned even further to be a wet coat. The levelling thinner concentration in this coat will level the paint whilst also building the colour depth by adding a third layer. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Very impressed with your attention to detail, one question though is that photo etched section in your video, does that come with the model or do you find that somewhere else?
Thank you. This kit comes with the Photo etch in the box as it a limited edition. Eduard ProfiPack also contain the PE parts too whereas the Weekend editions are just the plastic sprues and decals. Thanks for watching :)
How are you avoiding the metallic paint lifting when taping over it after? Letting it dry a long time? Buffing first? No one ever explains this in any videos....yet it always happens to me.
I never have any problems with this and it might be down to the primer layer of Mr Surfacer. It would be a good idea to de-tack your tape too before applying it. Most of the time tape is way too sticky for the adhesion actually required, so taking some of that away before you put it onto the model will definately help.
I have had a problem with natural metal finish models with regards to the wash stripping the extreme metal paint off. So you should only use oil for a panel line wash?
The paint will need some sort of clear coat. If you intend to use oil/enamel based weathering products then use an acrylic/lacquer based clear coat. This way the oils will not react with the clear coat and the paint will be safe. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Those are Mr Hobby MT204 Bevel Edge. Not sure where to get them since they seem to be discontinued, but others have said they are still available. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Scale a Ton has just released a video on the F-14 Tomcat. He's good so I'm sure it'll be useful. My suggestion, buy Tamiya - that kit looks amazing. ua-cam.com/video/QYZi_dsTwrU/v-deo.html
I tried both ways, flipped and reversed but they were just as bad. They are Poke:Oke with a small notch on one side to differentiate hands, but still they were as bad as you saw. Surprised really.
I've never had a problem with it but maybe it's the thinner paint? I would imagine that the thicker the paint it might start to gel over the period of detail painting. I have found that Citadel paints are very good for small details and I'm slowly building my collection of primary colours as well as leather type colours since these are often painted by hand and they have a great selection. Thanks for watching :)
There aren't many schemes where this is the case, that's why this one stood out to me, especially combined with the yellow. Thank you and thanks for watching! :)
I will be putting them for sale over the next few months, I have too many now and would like them to go to some followers :) They'll be available on my website soon www.theinnernerd.com
I tried both ways, flipped and reversed but they were just as bad. They are Poke:Oke with a small notch on one side to differentiate hands, but still they were as bad as you saw. Surprised really.
I've used cellulose thinners on a few models and it has no effect on the paint in my experience. I think because the paint is so lightly applied it helps keep any plastic from damage. I'm sure if you soaked it in thinners then yes, maybe it would be harmful. But at these volumes I have been safe. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Your videos are very calming so I tried to watch while going to sleep. The problem is, I just end up watching the whole video and then one or two or 10 more
Thank you and I'm pleased to hear that my ASMR approach to model making is err... helping you get to sleep haha. Sorry for also making them slightly addictive. Thanks for watching :)
We were missing you!
I'm sorry! I'm here now though just in time for Christmas! Thanks for remembering me and watching the video :)
@TheInnerNerd good build and timely for the hints as I'm building a 1/32 Tamiya Mustang just now.
Surprised how poorly the gun bay fit were on this kit!!!
I purchased the model stand about a year ago, man - its one of the best hobby accessories i have got. I use it ALL the time. Recommended 100%
That's great! I'm so pleased to hear that it's helping you out! Hope it serves you well for many more modelling triumphs! Thanks for watching :)
I've been working on model for 3 months now and I think this is gonna be my next kit. I'm very happy with the last kit I did and finally finished one without scratches in the paint of strings of cement hanging off the canopy
Best of luck with your next build. As long as you learn something from each time you make a model and keep trying out new things you're heading in the right direction. Thanks for watching :)
Very useful indeed sir. explaining the metallic "touch" is exactly what I have been looking for. for my HobbyBoss 1/48 P51D. A great video, result and thank you.
Thank you. Good luck with your P51 build and thanks for watching :)
I absolutely love your videos. I needed a hobby and have decided to start making and painting models and will be treating myself to my first kit and following your spitfire instruction video. I obviously expect mine to be a disaster but I'll get there 😊
Thank you, best of luck with your build and thanks for watching :)
this guy gave me so much good advice too. Making scale kits is an excellent stimulating hobby you can do forever. great stuff
@@TheInnerNerd:)
@@TheInnerNerdive recently worked for a design studio. it was amazing making bronze coffee tables and furniture. the bronze table took months and sold for 200k. i got the job i think when i told the designer in theinterview i make kits. im still explaining to him to use model kit products like mr surfacer for his 3d print mock ups.
Hi Mate Digger from Down Under here. Very pleased to see your expertise on this model, as I happened to have started a 1/48 scale kit in prep to hit up the Tamiya 1/32 P51D. But had parked it for a few months, which I intend to pick up this evening for a go using your excellent tips and hints;-) oink, tony
Hi Digger, best of luck with your P-51 build. The Tamiya kit is meant to be a beast and great kit to build! Pleased to hear this video has helped you get back to it once again :)
Nice build. The P-51D had an advanced look even though the designs go back to early 1940. It still looks contemporary. TY for the video.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
*The weathering is really beautiful and the result is amazing, so realistic! A mythical fighter of WW2 built from a marvelous kit,👏👏*
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
First off, love your content. In no small part due to your P38 video, I picked up modeling again during the pandemic after about 40 years. I had saved alot of my tools from my childhood and got to bring them back out after all this time.
I am very close to being done with the P38 that took a lot of inspiration from yours.
One thing that I am confused about is how you deviate from the given instructions effectively. Maybe its just experience and plenty of preplanning but I found that I tended to miss things and couldn't go back to address it because it was too late.
Anyway, cheers from the US and post more often :)
Tip that might help. Use one of the extra canopy’s while your doing the build so you don’t have to mask, then put on the one you want at the end.
That's a good idea, I always struggle to get good canopies after masking for so long. Useful if the kit has spares! Thanks and thank you for watching :)
The spoons for painting!
Just a tip: you can use mr color leveling thinner with Ak real color. I think it works a lot better, at least in my very dry climate.
Very nice work! I'm the process of making one now for my uncle who is ex airforce. One thing I have read from Shepard Paine was to heat and then smash a tad the bottom of the wheels to simulate the weight of the plane. I'm honestly not sure if that's correct or not since I am a filthy casual. Very nice work again, if mine turns out half as good as yours he'll be happy indeed!
Thank you, and yes you can use that technique to et a weighted look on the tires. Just be careful not to distort the hub whilst you're at it. Best of luck with your build and thanks for watching:)
Just discovered your channel. I love the systematic approach and all the details , such as airbrush pressure, that novice modellers such as I angst over. Thanks very much and keep em coming
Hello and welcome, thank you for finding me out here :). I'm always looking for ways to include the things I wanted to know when I started out. Thanks for watching, hope you'll stay :)
Awesome video! Would be so awesome if you build that Desert Babe Tonka on the next build. Love that Desert pink.
Yes it's a scratch that needs itching every time I see it there... I've not heard good things about the Revell Tornado though so I'll have to take some brave pills before starting it I think. Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Really nice build! That kit is in my stash also. (ASfter I build about 3 of the 1/48 Airfix Mustangs!)NOT a Criticism, but there are one or 2 small pointers:
The Later wartime Mustangs were built with only the Rear (Wingspar) wall part of the Landing gear bay painted in Zinc Chromate Yellow as the factories were pumping them out and needed to cut the time manufacturing too. The rest (Roof and Forwards walls) and struts were left unpainted. Somne ground crews would paint the bay after the first major maintenance overhaul... if the aircraft lasted that long, and usually in ZC-Green (Which was ZC-Yellow plus 15%-20% black.
The undercoat chart you showed is a copy from North American Aviation papers and shows the different methods/components used to smooth and fill - (Not the actual colours themselves - just a representation of them). Over that base went standard grey primer and then a topcoat of dull Silver Dope/Paint. Apparently it was a "Fun" job to manually sand the wing back to NMF....post war. ALL Mustangs were made with the wing Fillers and Primers applied including the Early Allison engined ones. (P-51, 51A, A-36 and exports to the UK.)
BTW, in case you wonder, the Airfix Mustang has good options, is easliy built, accurate (IMHO a real good deal as it is better than the 90s era Tamiya kit in some ways) and kit A-05138 (The one without the tail fillet - P-51D-5) still has BOTH tail fillets included, the factory-fitted standard and the Field-fitted Fillet colloquially referred to as the "Swayback" as it has a slight curve up to the fin Leading edge... and in 1/48 it is REALLY hard to tell them apart!)
Sorry if this is a stupid question but I’ve never been 100% clear on this. So the top AND bottom surfaces of the wings were painted with silver dope, right? What about aircraft such as Lou IV with painted upper surfaces? Was that put on over the silver in the field? Also what about the tailplanes, were they painted silver also?
@@iannicholls7476 Most if not all D models were delivered silver/NMF from the factory and the camouflaged ones were painted after arrival in the UK. Some units (eg the 357FG) had stocks of RAF paints found on their new base (ex RAF) and used those, in other units the painting was done with standard USAAF colours, but the underside was often left silver/NMF.
Thanks for the info. As I said right at the start of the video I'm not a P-51 expert at all so this has heled, info I'd have taken years to find I think. Thanks for watching :)
Hi Matt,
great video as ever, really enjoyed it, great job.
If they were the new decals, you did a great job, they settled down really well.
Loving the stand, wouldn’t be without it now, and thanks for the extra part, delivered in the week 👌
Jase 🇬🇧
Glad to see you back mate great vid cool plane as well top build that looking forward to seeing the next vid
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Good to see you back I. Nerd. A great video with lots of useful tips.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
i love watching your channel mate. i had a break making kits but watching this i cant wait to start again. ive got a bunch of boxes to work through. thanks for inspirational uploads
Thank you, hope that your mojo carries on and thanks for watching! :)
Nice work. I have it but one day ,it and the other 1100kits, might get done.
Thank you and thanks for watching! :)
Excellent! Loved your strategy of using different undercoats to get variations in the metal finish!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
IN great video, im about to start the Airfix version - ive no metalic paint so probably a camo version, thanks for sharing, cheers Liam
Thanks Liam. Best of luck with your build, I can recommend these AK Xtreme metals when you're ready to get some metallics. Alclad are also great but stink a bit compared to these ones. Thanks for watching :)
@@TheInnerNerd cheers IN - I’ll have to wait until I’m back home as getting stuff sent out to Saudi is risky - thanks for looking in.
Top notch build video. Techniques were explained well & I appreciate the bits of dry humor as well. Best wishes friend!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
I've got the kit and I highly recommend it.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Enjoyed your video, ordered your model stand immediately ;). Really appreciate your remarks about using simple alternatives to the more expensive branded stuff. Nice to see how 'universally' one weathering product can be used for a whole model.
Thank you and thanks for watching :) Hope the stand is serving you well!
Miss your videos... excelent built my friend! Cheers from Argentina...
Thank you and thanks for watching :) Cheers from the UK
First time I heard anyone explain how you need to combine acrylic varnish with enamel washes (and vice versa).
Everyone making tutorials skip this explanation, I've come to understand they take it for granted you'll use an acrylic varnish and then go in with enamels.
But when people start out and buy stuff they aren't as knowledgeable and end up trying to work with what they have, which can make their life very difficult.
In my case I bought two cans of acrylic varnish from Vallejo from the only modelling shop nearby, and when I looked for a pin wash, they only had acrylic.
In the end I had to make my own washes, enamel and oil based.
To make matters worse, varnish sprayed from a can cannot be applied thinly, meaning it's hard to preserve fine surface details for the upcoming wash.
I guess it's all part of the learning process.
Looks fantastic, well done 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
I enjoyed your builds mate. Your absence didn't go unoted.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Also, thanks for explaining the rough grainy feel. I was confused as to why they was happening with me.
Another informative video and a great build 😁👍🏻
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Beautiful aircraft; appreciate the insight into your approach to NMF.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Ive just been notified of this even though I'm subed, In anycase I'm looking forward to this build as this kit is currently in my local hobby store and if it's still there in a couple of weeks on my way home I'll be picking it up.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Good morning Nerd, the P-51 turnec out perfectly, but then thst is how you model, there was just enough weather etc, I did like what you done with the cockpit floor, all the very bedt to you and your family for the upcoming holiday season and a safe and Happy New Year, bedg regards from a Kiwi living in Australia
Thank you for the kind words and thanks for watching. All the best to you too here from the UK, Matt
Nice work!! Have to say if all the fantastic P51 builds on UA-cam, this one is my fav! I love the yellowness
Wow thank you! And thanks for watching :)
Fantastic build,great to see you back again 👏
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Another fantastic build! This video was informative and entertaining. Great job on both the model and the video!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Excellent build!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Thumbs up without even watching 😂👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Wish you posted more I love the videos !
Me too! I want to really try to make more videos but my projects keep getting bigger and bigger. Armour model next, they're usually a little quicker. But thank you for remembering me and coming back for the new videos. Thanks for watching :)
my favourite aircraft. what a fantastic job you did.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Hello mr.nerd!ohhh she is just a beauty with her swung lines.with sticky greetings. Christian
really nice video, thanks fo getting back to me about the compressor. I just ordered a workstand using your discount code, thankyou, happy christmas and new year.
Thank you and thanks for watching. Happy New Year and hope the model stand is serving you well :)
Absolutely beautiful work.
Thank you and thanks for watching:)
One place you can save some cash is your choice of flexible trim tape, like you used on the canopy. Instead of that overpriced stuff you got, just go to anywhere they sell automotive paint and look for pin stripe tape. It is exactly the same, if not better and way cheaper!
I love the tones you got and the overall finish.2 things though. (To me anyway. Lol) need some spray 9ff the tail wheel. And the areas around the wing panels where the guns and ammo are loaded. Either way, great job.
Thank you and that's a good detail to add in. Thank you and thanks for watching :)
very cool! Liked and subscribed!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Really nice work on the P-51 very impressive. Looking forward to watching more builds and subbed to your channel too. Keep up the great work.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Nice work! I just finished this kit not too long ago. I built The Tomcat. The only issue that I found with this kit was how the wings fit to the fuselage. It was rather difficult to get them to set correctly.
Thank you and yes, one fit perfectly whereas the other needed some work around the root as you saw. Thanks for watching :)
Beautiful!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Beautiful work! Thank you for sharing a lot of helpful ideas.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Very nice project and excellent result. 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Just be aware that Mustang wings were not left in natural metal, but rather, painted with an aluminium oxide finish, similar to the RAF's High Speed Silver.
Yep, the wings are painted with two different types of metal paint to replicate this. The fuselage is also different as this was an area left in its natural state. Thanks for watching :)
Lovely build!
Thankyou and thanks for watching :)
A good build and an enjoyable video. Nice one!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Very nice, great end results.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
I'm quite surprised that modellers are still using black as a base for metallic paint.
I thought that myth was dispelled years ago.
Nice work by the way, also nice to see a NMF P-51 model with the correct factory painted wing areas - often missed out on some builds.
I've done direct comparisons of gloss black base vs. regular grey primer and there is a difference for sure, even the paint manufacturers recommend you do so. Anyway, something I always do and the gloss helps highlight any flaws over matte primer before hitting it with metallic. Thank you and thanks for watching :)
really nice job
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Perfect video and build
Thank you and thanks for watching:)
I think I built this one! 90% that is, decals were crap, kit great!
This seems to be a reboxed, upgraded version,
Just subscribed to you! Quick question; you didn’t mention the metal paint that you used on the majority of the fuselage. Was it the standard aluminum or was it the polished aluminum paint?
Thank you and welcome! Yes the footage of this part was bad so I didn't use it, but you're right *Standard Aluminium was used for the main area of the fuselage*, then White Aluminium for the wings. Details with Duraluminium, Stainless Steel and Steel.
@@TheInnerNerd At first, I thought the whole fuselage was polished aluminum before I painted my P-51, but when I did some research, the wings, and the elevators were airbrushed with silver paint.
Great work, i also feel like this is your best video yet!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Great build, the NMF and weathering is spot on! But one detail sticks like a sore thumb, I think You installed the tailwheel the opposite way (it shouls be more to the rear of gear bay) and the tail sits very low because of that, hope it's not too late to fix it :)
Your right in that it should be towards the rear of the bay and when you watch him install it at 20:36, it is correctly placed at the rear of the bay but then when you look at the finished model it is at the front. Strange.
Thank you. Yes the tail wheel is in the correct position but it broke whilst I was photographing it, only just noticed when I read your comment and is now fixed. Thanks for watching :)
Turned out awesome 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Wonderful job good sir!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Nice work on the P51. I am having difficulty getting to your web site. Seem the link is gone or broken. I really would like to get one of those model stands for painting.
I've been really enjoying these videos lately mate. Love how thorough you are with all the steps ans it amazes me how well it comes out. I personally brush paint and for Christmas I have been thinking about buying myself an airbrush, which one do you have or what would you reccomend?
Thank you. I would recommend a cheaper one to start with. I had a Sealey AB9321 and it lasted years before I upgraded to my Harder & Steenbeck Evo Silverline. Thanks for watching :) www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637173584/gravity-feed-air-brush-kit
Is there anywhere else to buy your paint stand? Love your work
Looks great! How did you spray the Mr. Color GX-2 Ueno Black? A few thin coats and then a thicker coat? I can’t get a smooth finish. Thanks!
Thank you. Yes a lay a mist coat down first to 'bed in' on the model. Then after that's kinda dry (like leave it 2 mins) then apply a slightly thicker coat which will cover the part suitably. The last coat can be thinned even further to be a wet coat. The levelling thinner concentration in this coat will level the paint whilst also building the colour depth by adding a third layer. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Beatiful job 😍😍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Very impressed with your attention to detail, one question though is that photo etched section in your video, does that come with the model or do you find that somewhere else?
Thank you. This kit comes with the Photo etch in the box as it a limited edition. Eduard ProfiPack also contain the PE parts too whereas the Weekend editions are just the plastic sprues and decals. Thanks for watching :)
Very naic and good work 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Fantastic 👏👏💯%
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
loved that
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Superb
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
How are you avoiding the metallic paint lifting when taping over it after? Letting it dry a long time? Buffing first? No one ever explains this in any videos....yet it always happens to me.
I never have any problems with this and it might be down to the primer layer of Mr Surfacer. It would be a good idea to de-tack your tape too before applying it. Most of the time tape is way too sticky for the adhesion actually required, so taking some of that away before you put it onto the model will definately help.
I have had a problem with natural metal finish models with regards to the wash stripping the extreme metal paint off. So you should only use oil for a panel line wash?
The paint will need some sort of clear coat. If you intend to use oil/enamel based weathering products then use an acrylic/lacquer based clear coat. This way the oils will not react with the clear coat and the paint will be safe. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Fantastic Video and i love the Model Stand you sent me too, it gets used all the time! One question - what are the tweezers you use, they look great!?
Thank you and great to hear the stand is doing it's job! The Tweezers are Mr Tool MT-204. Thanks for watching :)
Not so bad Sir.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Когда будет постройка T-90M Tiger model?))
Gr8 job, well done, how you getting on with the dora 🤔
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
2:51 Where did you get those tweezers?
Those are Mr Hobby MT204 Bevel Edge. Not sure where to get them since they seem to be discontinued, but others have said they are still available. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Plastic Model World (online store) supposedly has them. They ship from Spain.
Any suggestions for someone that what’s to build a Tomcat?
Scale a Ton has just released a video on the F-14 Tomcat. He's good so I'm sure it'll be useful. My suggestion, buy Tamiya - that kit looks amazing.
ua-cam.com/video/QYZi_dsTwrU/v-deo.html
Is there a kit where the propellers can freely rotate?
Hello and thank you for watching. I don't know of any off the top of my head, but I you can modify the nose cone and shift to allow it to rotate.
That came out looking really nice. Especially love the weathered yet not "needs a tetanus shot from it" look
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Very good work! 👍👍 What is next from WW2? I-16 from Eduard?
Thank you and thanks for watching :) Next from WWII is from the land. A Tamiya Panther G
with the machine gun ones, i had no issues with those whatsoever, any chance they went on the wrong side?
I tried both ways, flipped and reversed but they were just as bad. They are Poke:Oke with a small notch on one side to differentiate hands, but still they were as bad as you saw. Surprised really.
@@TheInnerNerd damn, that sucks man, the result isnt any less because of it though. Looks fantastic
You forgot the propeller blade decals though
How do you stop the tiny brush from gumming up immediately?
I've never had a problem with it but maybe it's the thinner paint? I would imagine that the thicker the paint it might start to gel over the period of detail painting. I have found that Citadel paints are very good for small details and I'm slowly building my collection of primary colours as well as leather type colours since these are often painted by hand and they have a great selection. Thanks for watching :)
@@TheInnerNerd Great tip! I'll try out those citadel paints.
Hello, how can I fix a broken propeller on a p51-d mustang 1:72?
It depends on what you have broken it with and what tools you have. Have you still got the broken part, without it may be very difficult
I don’t think WWII Mustangs ever had black anti glare panels from what I've read anyway. Nice work though
There aren't many schemes where this is the case, that's why this one stood out to me, especially combined with the yellow. Thank you and thanks for watching! :)
👍🏻🙏
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
are any of your models for sale?
I will be putting them for sale over the next few months, I have too many now and would like them to go to some followers :) They'll be available on my website soon www.theinnernerd.com
Just a comment for the algorithm
Just a reply. For the Algorithm
More like inner hero
Haha maybe time for a rebrand? Thank you and thanks for watching :)
...шииикарно!..
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
The guns didnt fit because you had them on the wrong wings.
I tried both ways, flipped and reversed but they were just as bad. They are Poke:Oke with a small notch on one side to differentiate hands, but still they were as bad as you saw. Surprised really.
Cellulose thinners ? 😮 Surely not ..That stuff dissolves plastic .
I've used cellulose thinners on a few models and it has no effect on the paint in my experience. I think because the paint is so lightly applied it helps keep any plastic from damage. I'm sure if you soaked it in thinners then yes, maybe it would be harmful. But at these volumes I have been safe. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Beautiful build 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)