Such a beautiful job of this magnificent aircraft. The paint is spot on. I'm 70 years old and my uncle flew these birds off the carrier Wasp. He had pictures of him and his buddies on the deck with the birds in the background. You've done an excellent rendition of this bird. Thank you.
I love the way you have approached the sea blue finish of the late war Hellcat . As you probably found out, many of those schemes didn’t weather too badly so there isn’t much to play with. The early dash 3 Hellcats had the 3 colour scheme and the land based ones really ended up mucky . Brilliant job and plenty of inspiration!
The only thing I find more brilliant than your weathering techniques is the fact you took the time to share it with the rest of us! Excellent build and great tutorial!
I've never even thought of using a scouring pad for stippling. And love how you made the anti-slip pads with Mr Surfacer. Genius! So much gold in this, thank you --
I am very glad I stumbled upon this great video because I have the same model and can use it as a guide. The WWII Grumman birds will always have a special place in my heart, not only because they were war-winning aircraft but because my Nana helped build them during the War. You all know they preferred small-statured folks because they fit in the airframes better, that's where Nana came in; she installed wiring harnesses.
Excellent build. Especially the lighter color wash on the top technique for the dust & sun bleaching. It really gives that baking on an aircraft carrier in the south pacific sun feel. I have had the Eduard 1/48 F6F-5N sitting in my closet for at least 4 years. This video has finally given me the courage to attempt it. Thank you!
A little late perhaps but i love this format with the classical music in the background. Its the next most relaxing thing to building. I really enjoyed this video!
Thank you. I try to keep the videos a little calmer than I used to for what is hopefully a more relaxing experience lol. Thanks for watching, more like this to come! :)
You are a master of your craft, I am an aviation artist and I actually watch your vids to see detailing and finish for my portraits, that's how good you are
Thank you so much! That's so cool! Thank you for watching and I'm pleased that they are helping you in a unique way. Could you share a link to your work? I'd like to see it :)
In watching this again, I am amazed at color sanding of decal clear coat, a subject not mentioned on other videos. Brilliant idea, and I love the use of lighter panel line shading. A most realistic and outstanding finish, weathering and rivet/stressed skin effect. This plane should be an award winner. All cool man everyone ,everything involved here!
Thank you. Yes you don't see much flatting of the decals in other videos - especially not aircraft models anyway. I think it helps unify the surface texture better than leaving the decals raised as we always strive to get that painted on look. Having examined a lot of models and methods vs the real life subject and reference images, you find most modellers darken the panel lines, when it should actually be lighter. Taking into account the enviroment the real subject would have been kept in, it would be more likely the panel filled with dust when based in a dry climate vs one that had been operated in a moist and colder one. Thank you and thanks for watching :)
I recently built Tamiya 1/48 Spitfire Mk 5b, and used the 25 year old decals. The Badger liquid Decal Film really works, and kept the Decals together. In decaling it, I noticed alot of film and jagged edges. I thought, I wonder if acrylic clear coat can be color sanded. For the removal of decal clear film edges, and for the sake of not having more clear coat than necessary, and paint smoothness, this seems doable thanks to this informative video. I will experiment first on a scrap project
Great job. I would know those tail stripes anywhere. That plane sortied off my father’s ship during WW2. He probably touched it. As a matter of fact he had pictures of that plane from the war. Hard not to get misty seeing it. Great job. Thanks
@@alanmooney3466 yes the Essex was CV-9 the first of the class, My dad was on the USS Randolph, CV-15. He was a plank holder of the ship. He never got it though. Wonderful memories.
Beautiful job! I must say this was my Father's favorite aircraft. He was a Navy man and used to talk about this and others. As he was a novice modeler and got me into modeling when I was a wee lad. My first aircraft build was the Revell Stuka back in the early 70s. I enjoy your channel and have learned alot. New subscriber.
Best model making videos in Britain.This video really has the right combination of visual,narration and music(and I normally dislike music on Model vids).An excellent build presented superbly.!
Thank you so much! I try to put as much thought into my models as I can and try to get more complex with each build. Thanks again and thank you for watching :)
Niiice!-for years I’ve used graphites and ash from fires; as well as, charcoal along with makeup daubers to create wear and tear. You’re a master at the salt damage to this Navy classic!
Wow, the manual skills of a neurosurgeon and the vision of an artist. Brilliant build of one of my favorite WW2 warbirds. I built the Monogram version as a lad.
I just checked the spelling, ( if I remember correctly, may have been named after a person) Frise type hinge. On ailerons having a nose portion just ahead of of hinge axis, and a lower surface in line with lower surface. On your elevator, if in neutral close that gap as per kit part. And or put the individual hinges into those two on each side rectangular recesses in the elevators. The inner and outer cool man, cool! Great build!
Superb, you’ve given me a lot of weathering ideas for the Airfix 1/24 scale kit. I had just decided to go for this very colour scheme in the larger scale and then I noticed this video. Great timing!
Great paint and weathering! Stressed skin and rivets most enviable! Use of scotch pad and post painting outstandimg! The ailerons and elevator show less gap in neutral and are hinged behind their leading edge to allow opposite airflow forces to assist in moving these control surfaces. Called the freeze type hinge. I'll check the spelling. etc. All cool man, nothing Nerdy about builders, that's for sure!
Hey everyone I hope you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching. I thought I'd give the stressed skin effect a go on this one using some wartime reference images. Hope you can see the difference 2 years makes also between the Tamiya Corsair and this one! **You may notice I state AK washes when on fact I am using Ammo by Mig. For some reason I thought that Ammo was part of AK despite all bar one of my washes are from Ammo. Sorry if that is confusing but now you know** Happy modelling and stay safe! The Inner Nerd
Eduard makes such excellent kits and of course legendary add-ons for greater detail. Praise to the Czech people! And these videos are always equally excellent. 👍
Watched this build a couple times now...Lots of info on weathering over dark based aircraft which will be of benefit making my HK 1/48 Lanc...Big thanks for the vid...From Chesterfield, UK
Thank you and I'm pleased to hear that the video is useful for other models too. Dark schemes are a little tricky to weather compared to the usual greens and greys since a lot of the dirt is dark too. Hope the Lanc goes well! Thanks for watching, Cheshire, UK :)
The boot print is ingenious! Vid is pleasant to watch and shows very good technics and new stuff I learned. Especially the sanding which I am always afraid of doing.
Love the scouring pad technique, I have always done that kind of mottling manually with the airbrush. The scouring pad is a much faster method. Edit: I highly recomend Ushi rigging or Ez line. It is a very strechy line that you can make rigging easily with. It comes black, so no need to paint it.
Thank you and yes I have always done it manually but it was taking far too long on my Kitty Hawk SU-22 Fitter that has 4 tone cameo so had to find a faster way! Seen all these popular airbrush stencils that are about £15 a set and thought you know what... £1 later I have one that can be made truly random 😎 And thanks for the tip. I’ve seen that rigging too but since I mainly do jets I’ve not invested in it but may do so
That’s a gorgeous bird, outstanding job. I’ve always liked the Hellcat. It’s right at the top of my favorite fighters list along with, obviously, the Mustang. My other favorites are the Corsair, Thunderbolt and Lightning. Keep up the great work! Cheers from California!😃😎
Thank you! Yes I like it too and not sure why it's taken me so long to get around to making one 😅I really enjoy making the WW2 fighters now and then as I mainly do the modern jets but they are definately good fun! Thanks for watching!
That's a great looking kit, and a great looking build. The method shown for simulating a stressed skin effect is interesting. I would have thought that the _lowest_ portions for each section (delineated by the rivets, and by inner structures --- ribs/spars/stringers --- beneath the skin) would be _at_ the aforesaid rivets and structure, and not centered within the boundaries of the rivets and inner structure (since the rivets would draw the a/c skin inward). Riveting should pull down the skin along the rivet lines. Therefore, with the unriveted areas being higher, they would "catch" more of the sunlight and appear brighter than the riveted areas (as shown in the b&w pictures). That may explain why stressed skin wasn't noticeable further below the a/c beltline in the photographs; less light there.
Thank you and yes, this kit was a very nice build - I enjoyed it a lot. You're right and it's what should be expected when looking at other pictures of stressed skin on aircraft like a Lancaster. The bulge of the barrelling is usually in the centre of the panel - the reverse of this. I just copied what I saw and wanted to give it a go on this one. Thanks for watching :)
@@TheInnerNerd Bulging notwithstanding, your painting and treatment still results in a very realistic appearance. I haven't whipped up the nerve to do stressed-skin even though I recall reading of a very convincing technique for accomplishing that in an old issue of Finescale Modeler... maybe 30 years ago? I still have most of my issues going back 30 years. I'll go through what I have and, if I still have the article, I'll post a summarization of the technique here, along with the issue date in case back issues are still available.
@@TheInnerNerd OKAY, FOUND IT! From the February 1994 issue of _Finescale Modeler,_ page 62. Titled “Producing a stressed-skin look on model aircraft” by Daniel Garsonnin. The technique (reportedly very labor-intensive) requires that the surface being worked on have recessed (or scribed) panel lines. Here’s a very basic step-by-step: *First,* use a No.15 scalpel blade to deepen and (by virtue of the blade’s thickness only) slightly widen the recessed/scribed panel lines. Do not hold the blade in a sideways manner, that is, in a way that would _scrape_ the surface. Eyeball-gauge the number of scalpel passes required based on the scale of the kit being worked on. *Next,* starting with 400-grit sandpaper wrapped around a small piece of foam rubber (and working your way down with finer and finer grit) smooth out each panel line, but not so much that the recessed/scribed panel lines disappear. *Finally,* give the surface a good polish to smooth out the surface even further. That’s it. Per the author, the technique (most noticeable on a metallic-finished surface) would also work on gloss and flat finishes. I should point out that the author’s use of a scalpel was based on his build of an old Hasegawa 1/32 F-86F ( _raised_ panel lines); he had to scribe his own panel lines. I’d say that anyone using this technique should decide whether they need to deepen the panel lines on a kit that came with recessed panel lines, or simply start sanding away as I described. Given the need to avoid complete obliteration of the panel lines, deepening the kit’s recessed panel lines may be required. If I was to work this technique, I’d practice beforehand on a “scrap” kit, or on sheet plastic.
Absolutely beautiful, awesome details you put to your models. Til the next have a good one, you and your family stay safe and healthy and as always take care my friend
I first got the idea when I used a polishing compound on my olive drab Hasegawa P40E. It was hard to remove the Buff color polish. Then I thought this buff polish color would make a good panel line color wash against the Olive drab. Builder is right abought the dust accumulating between panel lines. Also, I am beginning to wonder if the way our eyes perceive things like this, is that two light edges in close proximity create a deeper shade in between such items(?)
Love your attempt at the stressed-skin effect, I have not seen this before. I can't help but think it seems a bit overdone on the areas where it is done, and underdone on the rest (please don't take as criticism, I think it's awesome that you undertook the effort in the first place). I wonder if, rather than a scraping approach, it would be possible to use a heat-based approach, applying pressure with a sort of ball-end tamping tool? of course, the heat would have to be controlled very carefully, and would probably result in over-impressions, and strings of styrene being pulled from the surface. Would love to see it tried, tho. Keep up the awesome work!
any tips and tricks for a newbie dealing with impossibly small parts? I bought a good tool kit with some very fine straight and curved tweezers... but some of the parts just seem impossible. I've loved watching your videos and haven't done this since I was a kid. Now.. it's a way to cope with my depression and PTSD. So please keep up the amazing work; I've learned so much from you.
I struggle too so you're not alone. Apparently wax pencils are good for placing these parts but I've never tried them. As for holding when sanding them - I hold on for dear life and hope it doesn't ping off into the abyss which is also known as carpet. I understand this is more support than solution but I hope it still can help. Thank you for being there to watch my videos and I'll return that by continuing to make more and try to be at least a little entertaining in the process. Thanks again and good luck :)
Excellent build thank you. It's interesting how each modeler does their kits differently. I love your weathering techniques but some modelers will paint bare metal silver then paint chipping compound and primer then top cost and come out with heavily chipped model. I wonder why the difference? I'm guessing a mid war aircraft in the tri color scheme probably would have chipped heavily. This aircraft I believe was a layer war machine? If so it wouldn't have been so chipped.
Not sure at what point you started adding audio to these videos (came here through a sub to your page via the very F4U you mentioned in the beginning) but it is very much appreciated. I really like watching your work come together and your use of oils. I actually bought myself a pretty good batch of oils just to give it a go. Quick question if you have the time... Who do you feel has the best overall aircraft kits in your experience? Been trying to stick to one brand but when I see a low price I jump and end up with junk or a lot of disappointments (here's looking at you Revell) and would like to get away from that, even if it costs me more. Anyways, love the work, keep at it and thanks!
Ahh hello and welcome! So I added my narration on the Spitfire FR and have done so since. I thought it was time to finally reveal that I am a real person and it allowed me to explain exactly what I was doing rather than rely on good footage alone. Yes Oils are fantastic once you know how to use them correctly! They are my go-to weathering product on everything. So to answer your question - I feel your pain. I really Like Eduard. Their kits go together consistently well and they have good detail, but are also not too expensive. If you want to upgrade the kit they have ProfiPack versions plus all the Brass and Resin available for each of their kits too. Be careful not to get a re-box of another kit with Eduard however as they launch a lot of other manufacturers' kits as Limited Editions and some can be actually quite bad. You can never go wrong with Tamiya either. Although lacking in some specialist aircraft as they only seem to cover the bases of the "typical" modellers choice they are very nice to put together. All the Tamiya kits I have made have been fantastic. I've just finished Kinetic's F-104 Starfighter from their Gold Standard range. Honestly one of the best kits I've ever made, really fantastic detail and fit. But I'm not sure what their others are like since I've only made the F/A-18D from them as well. But on a batch of 2 1/48 models they're worth the money. If you want to go Uber model kits then look at Zouki Moura and AMK. I've never built from either manufacturer but both are meant to be tip top. The MIG-31 is apparently excellent. Stay clear of Kitty Hawk unless you have a good dry-build guide online to follow - they cause all sorts of issues with fits and stupid planning. Also Hobby Boss are a little hit and miss. The Saab J-29 I made was great, but others like the MIG-31 were just nope. Academy can be the same. Their F-4 Phantom is good, the 1/72 F-15E is just the best thing ever, but the 1/72 F-117 is dreadful. - actually *the* worst kit I've ever made both in detail and fit. I hope this is detailed enough for you and it helps you decide. Of course I can only guide on what experience I have of each kit and most are in 1/48. There are a lot of preferences to be taken into account with detail vs fit etc and there is no definitive answer to "the best" but the ones mentioned are a good range of good, bad and indifferent. Also check scalemates.com if you don't already. The worlds largest kit database and they have everything from ad ons to release timelines so you can get an idea of the kits origin and release date
@@timwelch175 No problem! I know what you feel trying to find good kits and it wasting time or money on bad ones. Only experience lets you understand which ones are the ones to get
Such a beautiful job of this magnificent aircraft. The paint is spot on. I'm 70 years old and my uncle flew these birds off the carrier Wasp. He had pictures of him and his buddies on the deck with the birds in the background. You've done an excellent rendition of this bird. Thank you.
Thank you and what a great insight! Thanks for watching :)
I love the way you have approached the sea blue finish of the late war Hellcat .
As you probably found out, many of those schemes didn’t weather too badly so there isn’t much to play with.
The early dash 3 Hellcats had the 3 colour scheme and the land based ones really ended up mucky .
Brilliant job and plenty of inspiration!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
The only thing I find more brilliant than your weathering techniques is the fact you took the time to share it with the rest of us! Excellent build and great tutorial!
I've never even thought of using a scouring pad for stippling.
And love how you made the anti-slip pads with Mr Surfacer. Genius!
So much gold in this, thank you --
I am very glad I stumbled upon this great video because I have the same model and can use it as a guide. The WWII Grumman birds will always have a special place in my heart, not only because they were war-winning aircraft but because my Nana helped build them during the War. You all know they preferred small-statured folks because they fit in the airframes better, that's where Nana came in; she installed wiring harnesses.
Excellent build. Especially the lighter color wash on the top technique for the dust & sun bleaching. It really gives that baking on an aircraft carrier in the south pacific sun feel. I have had the Eduard 1/48 F6F-5N sitting in my closet for at least 4 years. This video has finally given me the courage to attempt it. Thank you!
Thank you. This kit is realy good and a nice build too. Best of luck with yours and thanks for watching :)
A little late perhaps but i love this format with the classical music in the background. Its the next most relaxing thing to building. I really enjoyed this video!
Thank you. I try to keep the videos a little calmer than I used to for what is hopefully a more relaxing experience lol. Thanks for watching, more like this to come! :)
You are a master of your craft, I am an aviation artist and I actually watch your vids to see detailing and finish for my portraits, that's how good you are
Thank you so much! That's so cool! Thank you for watching and I'm pleased that they are helping you in a unique way. Could you share a link to your work? I'd like to see it :)
In watching this again, I am amazed at color sanding of decal clear coat, a subject not mentioned on other videos. Brilliant idea, and I love the use of lighter panel line shading. A most realistic and outstanding finish, weathering and rivet/stressed skin effect. This plane should be an award winner. All cool man everyone ,everything involved here!
Thank you. Yes you don't see much flatting of the decals in other videos - especially not aircraft models anyway. I think it helps unify the surface texture better than leaving the decals raised as we always strive to get that painted on look. Having examined a lot of models and methods vs the real life subject and reference images, you find most modellers darken the panel lines, when it should actually be lighter. Taking into account the enviroment the real subject would have been kept in, it would be more likely the panel filled with dust when based in a dry climate vs one that had been operated in a moist and colder one. Thank you and thanks for watching :)
I recently built Tamiya 1/48 Spitfire Mk 5b, and used the 25 year old decals. The Badger liquid Decal Film really works, and kept the Decals together. In decaling it, I noticed alot of film and jagged edges. I thought, I wonder if acrylic clear coat can be color sanded. For the removal of decal clear film edges, and for the sake of not having more clear coat than necessary, and paint smoothness, this seems doable thanks to this informative video. I will experiment first on a scrap project
Great job. I would know those tail stripes anywhere. That plane sortied off my father’s ship during WW2. He probably touched it. As a matter of fact he had pictures of that plane from the war. Hard not to get misty seeing it. Great job. Thanks
Cool! My uncle flew a Hellcat! I think he was on the Essex, but I'm not sure.
I think I'm wrong about the name of the carrier..
@@alanmooney3466 yes the Essex was CV-9 the first of the class, My dad was on the USS Randolph, CV-15. He was a plank holder of the ship. He never got it though. Wonderful memories.
@@alanmooney3466 My grandfather was a Hellcat pilot on the Essex. Didn't expect to see a comment like this watching this video.
@@nealginn7845 #)
Beautiful job! I must say this was my Father's favorite aircraft. He was a Navy man and used to talk about this and others. As he was a novice modeler and got me into modeling when I was a wee lad. My first aircraft build was the Revell Stuka back in the early 70s. I enjoy your channel and have learned alot. New subscriber.
Best model making videos in Britain.This video really has the right combination of visual,narration and music(and I normally dislike music on Model vids).An excellent build presented superbly.!
One of your most Nerd-A-Licious builds today. I like the idea of fishing line for the antenna. Absolutely brilliant.
Loved your videos!! So far you're the most detailed modeller compared with other modellers.
Thank you so much! I try to put as much thought into my models as I can and try to get more complex with each build. Thanks again and thank you for watching :)
I am blown away by the detail & the care put into these model builds simply superb
Love the description of work. Much more helpful than just video and text.
Beautiful job!!
Greetings from Spain! Awesome build, so much to learn from it... These videos are a great help to cope with these strange times. Very inspiring :-)
Absolutely stunning job
Some of the best builds on the tube! Great results and another couple of tips I haven't seen.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Niiice!-for years I’ve used graphites and ash from fires; as well as, charcoal along with makeup daubers to create wear and tear. You’re a master at the salt damage to this Navy classic!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Wow, the manual skills of a neurosurgeon and the vision of an artist.
Brilliant build of one of my favorite WW2 warbirds. I built the Monogram version as a lad.
Thank you and thanks for watching. This kit is down as one of my favourites WW2 subjects :)
I just checked the spelling, ( if I remember correctly, may have been named after a person) Frise type hinge. On ailerons having a nose portion just ahead of of hinge axis, and a lower surface in line with lower surface. On your elevator, if in neutral close that gap as per kit part. And or put the individual hinges into those two on each side rectangular recesses in the elevators. The inner and outer cool man, cool! Great build!
Okay thanks for the info. Thank you for watching :)
Your skill, attention and care honor the engineers, pilots and support crew of this historic aircraft.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Superb, you’ve given me a lot of weathering ideas for the Airfix 1/24 scale kit. I had just decided to go for this very colour scheme in the larger scale and then I noticed this video. Great timing!
This is the best Hellcat build on UA-cam
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Great paint and weathering! Stressed skin and rivets most enviable! Use of scotch pad and post painting outstandimg! The ailerons and elevator show less gap in neutral and are hinged behind their leading edge to allow opposite airflow forces to assist in moving these control surfaces. Called the freeze type hinge. I'll check the spelling. etc. All cool man, nothing Nerdy about builders, that's for sure!
Hey everyone I hope you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching. I thought I'd give the stressed skin effect a go on this one using some wartime reference images. Hope you can see the difference 2 years makes also between the Tamiya Corsair and this one!
**You may notice I state AK washes when on fact I am using Ammo by Mig. For some reason I thought that Ammo was part of AK despite all bar one of my washes are from Ammo. Sorry if that is confusing but now you know**
Happy modelling and stay safe!
The Inner Nerd
The stressed skin effect was a great success. It looks very realistic. Well done as always. Stay safe everyone!
As far as I know Ammo Mig and Abteilung 502 are both product lines of AK. So you were not so wrong there
Also should add that I have three of these in the stash and this will be the video that finally inspires me to build one of them.
Thank you lol
Eduard makes such excellent kits and of course legendary add-ons for greater detail. Praise to the Czech people! And these videos are always equally excellent. 👍
Yes they are great kits - never had a bad one and this was one of the best! Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Amazing skills and details. Absolutely stunning!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Every time i see this videos my heart slows a little so i cannot say nothing but this:
CONGRATULATIONS !!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
stunning, just bought the latest version of this kit. Cant wait!
Thank you and thanks for watching:)
Watched this build a couple times now...Lots of info on weathering over dark based aircraft which will be of benefit making my HK 1/48 Lanc...Big thanks for the vid...From Chesterfield, UK
Thank you and I'm pleased to hear that the video is useful for other models too. Dark schemes are a little tricky to weather compared to the usual greens and greys since a lot of the dirt is dark too. Hope the Lanc goes well! Thanks for watching, Cheshire, UK :)
Absolutely beautiful build!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Great work. Great video. Always a pleasure to watch your builds.
That looks AMAZING, if you put it in a base that looks like an aircraft carrier runway or something like that it would be a museum piece
Stunning work!
The boot print is ingenious! Vid is pleasant to watch and shows very good technics and new stuff I learned. Especially the sanding which I am always afraid of doing.
Great video yet again, I think the old size nine trick is a cool trademark for all similar builds.
Thank you. And yes, I'll have to break that out again when I come to another model that needs it ;) Thanks for watching :)
Really cool looking warbird. I like your weathering technique! Greetings Ben
Stunning, pretty much says it all for fantastic work. Bravo.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Love the scouring pad technique, I have always done that kind of mottling manually with the airbrush. The scouring pad is a much faster method.
Edit: I highly recomend Ushi rigging or Ez line. It is a very strechy line that you can make rigging easily with. It comes black, so no need to paint it.
Thank you and yes I have always done it manually but it was taking far too long on my Kitty Hawk SU-22 Fitter that has 4 tone cameo so had to find a faster way! Seen all these popular airbrush stencils that are about £15 a set and thought you know what... £1 later I have one that can be made truly random 😎
And thanks for the tip. I’ve seen that rigging too but since I mainly do jets I’ve not invested in it but may do so
Thanks for the great tutorial. No nonsense....love it! And your work simply speaks for itself- well done!
I did the Night Fighter version & it was a truly great, easy & very Satisfying add to my fighter shelf🤗
Love the build and techniques you used. I'll be building my Hasagawa 1/32 Hellcat and you gave me some great ideas, cheers!
Отличная работа!!! Как всегда на высоте!
Dear Sir: You do some fine work! Excellent!
Great surface finish!
The splatter using the sponges is a superb idea
Beautiful, I am just starting to learn to use an airbrush, trying to take my modeling up a few notches.
Very nice video love the weather techniques throughout 🏆👍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
That’s a gorgeous bird, outstanding job. I’ve always liked the Hellcat. It’s right at the top of my favorite fighters list along with, obviously, the Mustang. My other favorites are the Corsair, Thunderbolt and Lightning. Keep up the great work! Cheers from California!😃😎
Thank you! Yes I like it too and not sure why it's taken me so long to get around to making one 😅I really enjoy making the WW2 fighters now and then as I mainly do the modern jets but they are definately good fun! Thanks for watching!
The Inner Nerd Scale Modelling, could you do a bomber next? Maybe a B-17 or B-24
Lovely workflow, enjoyed it.
Very well done!!!!! I love di idea of using the green sponge as brush stencil
Thank you for letting me watch this video a friend of mine descent me on 1/48 scale version from America it's wrong naval air station version
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Great build got this kit in my stash think this one will next.
Thank you. This kit is great, one of Eduard's best from my experience. Good luck and thanks for watching :)
Very nice build.
Very detailed and skillfully crafted...nice job!
lovely build mate!!!!
Великолепная модель! Magnificent model!
brother you motivate me to keep building.
That's great! I hope I can continue to motivate you with building your own models!
That's a great looking kit, and a great looking build. The method shown for simulating a stressed skin effect is interesting. I would have thought that the _lowest_ portions for each section (delineated by the rivets, and by inner structures --- ribs/spars/stringers --- beneath the skin) would be _at_ the aforesaid rivets and structure, and not centered within the boundaries of the rivets and inner structure (since the rivets would draw the a/c skin inward). Riveting should pull down the skin along the rivet lines. Therefore, with the unriveted areas being higher, they would "catch" more of the sunlight and appear brighter than the riveted areas (as shown in the b&w pictures). That may explain why stressed skin wasn't noticeable further below the a/c beltline in the photographs; less light there.
Thank you and yes, this kit was a very nice build - I enjoyed it a lot. You're right and it's what should be expected when looking at other pictures of stressed skin on aircraft like a Lancaster. The bulge of the barrelling is usually in the centre of the panel - the reverse of this. I just copied what I saw and wanted to give it a go on this one. Thanks for watching :)
@@TheInnerNerd Bulging notwithstanding, your painting and treatment still results in a very realistic appearance. I haven't whipped up the nerve to do stressed-skin even though I recall reading of a very convincing technique for accomplishing that in an old issue of Finescale Modeler... maybe 30 years ago? I still have most of my issues going back 30 years. I'll go through what I have and, if I still have the article, I'll post a summarization of the technique here, along with the issue date in case back issues are still available.
@@TheInnerNerd OKAY, FOUND IT! From the February 1994 issue of _Finescale Modeler,_ page 62. Titled “Producing a stressed-skin look on model aircraft” by Daniel Garsonnin. The technique (reportedly very labor-intensive) requires that the surface being worked on have recessed (or scribed) panel lines. Here’s a very basic step-by-step: *First,* use a No.15 scalpel blade to deepen and (by virtue of the blade’s thickness only) slightly widen the recessed/scribed panel lines. Do not hold the blade in a sideways manner, that is, in a way that would _scrape_ the surface. Eyeball-gauge the number of scalpel passes required based on the scale of the kit being worked on. *Next,* starting with 400-grit sandpaper wrapped around a small piece of foam rubber (and working your way down with finer and finer grit) smooth out each panel line, but not so much that the recessed/scribed panel lines disappear. *Finally,* give the surface a good polish to smooth out the surface even further. That’s it. Per the author, the technique (most noticeable on a metallic-finished surface) would also work on gloss and flat finishes. I should point out that the author’s use of a scalpel was based on his build of an old Hasegawa 1/32 F-86F ( _raised_ panel lines); he had to scribe his own panel lines. I’d say that anyone using this technique should decide whether they need to deepen the panel lines on a kit that came with recessed panel lines, or simply start sanding away as I described. Given the need to avoid complete obliteration of the panel lines, deepening the kit’s recessed panel lines may be required. If I was to work this technique, I’d practice beforehand on a “scrap” kit, or on sheet plastic.
Beautiful work. Great video!
Daaaaamn!
Looks phenomenal! Great work as always
Very interesting and effective weathering! Great result!👍
I cant believe i watched the whole video, your work is captivating, very impressive, my hats off to you thanks:))
Great job. I'm learning a lot with you. Thanks from spain.
What a beauty!
Very nice work
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Beautifully done! Great job.
Perfect work 👍
Thankyou and thanks for watching :)
Absolutely beautiful, awesome details you put to your models. Til the next have a good one, you and your family stay safe and healthy and as always take care my friend
A great build, I likec the stressed skin. I look forward to your next build.
Wow...great vid. Talent!!
Beautiful job mate 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Wonderful job my friend, from Detroit 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching:)
what a outstanding build.
That's Frickin Amazing Work!! Great build my friend
I first got the idea when I used a polishing compound on my olive drab Hasegawa P40E. It was hard to remove the Buff color polish. Then I thought this buff polish color would make a good panel line color wash against the Olive drab. Builder is right abought the dust accumulating between panel lines. Also, I am beginning to wonder if the way our eyes perceive things like this, is that two light edges in close proximity create a deeper shade in between such items(?)
Top build and paint job! You can replace gun barrels with injection needle, it will be better.Good luck!
Impresionante trabajo. Enhorabuena. Gracias por compartirlo
Stunning, thank you for sharing!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Lovely work old Chap, most enjoyable to watch!!
Excellent work.
Amazing job! One of my favorite ww2 aircraft! Keep it up 👍
Awesome! Plain and simple!
Excellent tutorial. Lovely build.
Fantastic job, and I really liked certain techniques. Let more videos come. Cheers Mate.
Great build ! I'm a big fan of profi-packs too .
Next one I get I’ll def get the pro. The weekend warrior is okay, but the extra money for the pro is well worth it.
Another amazing build :D
Thank you and thanks for watching :) This one was one of my favourites!
Super Nice build
Thank you and thanks for watching:)
Great job.
Excellent work! Makes me want to get one too!
Stunning build!!
Love your attempt at the stressed-skin effect, I have not seen this before. I can't help but think it seems a bit overdone on the areas where it is done, and underdone on the rest (please don't take as criticism, I think it's awesome that you undertook the effort in the first place).
I wonder if, rather than a scraping approach, it would be possible to use a heat-based approach, applying pressure with a sort of ball-end tamping tool? of course, the heat would have to be controlled very carefully, and would probably result in over-impressions, and strings of styrene being pulled from the surface. Would love to see it tried, tho.
Keep up the awesome work!
any tips and tricks for a newbie dealing with impossibly small parts? I bought a good tool kit with some very fine straight and curved tweezers... but some of the parts just seem impossible. I've loved watching your videos and haven't done this since I was a kid. Now.. it's a way to cope with my depression and PTSD. So please keep up the amazing work; I've learned so much from you.
I struggle too so you're not alone. Apparently wax pencils are good for placing these parts but I've never tried them. As for holding when sanding them - I hold on for dear life and hope it doesn't ping off into the abyss which is also known as carpet. I understand this is more support than solution but I hope it still can help. Thank you for being there to watch my videos and I'll return that by continuing to make more and try to be at least a little entertaining in the process. Thanks again and good luck :)
Excellent build thank you. It's interesting how each modeler does their kits differently. I love your weathering techniques but some modelers will paint bare metal silver then paint chipping compound and primer then top cost and come out with heavily chipped model. I wonder why the difference? I'm guessing a mid war aircraft in the tri color scheme probably would have chipped heavily. This aircraft I believe was a layer war machine? If so it wouldn't have been so chipped.
Not sure at what point you started adding audio to these videos (came here through a sub to your page via the very F4U you mentioned in the beginning) but it is very much appreciated. I really like watching your work come together and your use of oils. I actually bought myself a pretty good batch of oils just to give it a go. Quick question if you have the time... Who do you feel has the best overall aircraft kits in your experience? Been trying to stick to one brand but when I see a low price I jump and end up with junk or a lot of disappointments (here's looking at you Revell) and would like to get away from that, even if it costs me more. Anyways, love the work, keep at it and thanks!
Ahh hello and welcome! So I added my narration on the Spitfire FR and have done so since. I thought it was time to finally reveal that I am a real person and it allowed me to explain exactly what I was doing rather than rely on good footage alone.
Yes Oils are fantastic once you know how to use them correctly! They are my go-to weathering product on everything.
So to answer your question - I feel your pain.
I really Like Eduard. Their kits go together consistently well and they have good detail, but are also not too expensive. If you want to upgrade the kit they have ProfiPack versions plus all the Brass and Resin available for each of their kits too. Be careful not to get a re-box of another kit with Eduard however as they launch a lot of other manufacturers' kits as Limited Editions and some can be actually quite bad. You can never go wrong with Tamiya either. Although lacking in some specialist aircraft as they only seem to cover the bases of the "typical" modellers choice they are very nice to put together. All the Tamiya kits I have made have been fantastic. I've just finished Kinetic's F-104 Starfighter from their Gold Standard range. Honestly one of the best kits I've ever made, really fantastic detail and fit. But I'm not sure what their others are like since I've only made the F/A-18D from them as well. But on a batch of 2 1/48 models they're worth the money.
If you want to go Uber model kits then look at Zouki Moura and AMK. I've never built from either manufacturer but both are meant to be tip top. The MIG-31 is apparently excellent.
Stay clear of Kitty Hawk unless you have a good dry-build guide online to follow - they cause all sorts of issues with fits and stupid planning. Also Hobby Boss are a little hit and miss. The Saab J-29 I made was great, but others like the MIG-31 were just nope. Academy can be the same. Their F-4 Phantom is good, the 1/72 F-15E is just the best thing ever, but the 1/72 F-117 is dreadful. - actually *the* worst kit I've ever made both in detail and fit.
I hope this is detailed enough for you and it helps you decide. Of course I can only guide on what experience I have of each kit and most are in 1/48. There are a lot of preferences to be taken into account with detail vs fit etc and there is no definitive answer to "the best" but the ones mentioned are a good range of good, bad and indifferent.
Also check scalemates.com if you don't already. The worlds largest kit database and they have everything from ad ons to release timelines so you can get an idea of the kits origin and release date
@@TheInnerNerd You sir are awesome. I got more info from that reply than hours of searching and reading forums. Can't thank you enough!
@@timwelch175 No problem! I know what you feel trying to find good kits and it wasting time or money on bad ones. Only experience lets you understand which ones are the ones to get
Great job, thanks for sharing these model builds!..
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Salut. Ce que tu fais est toujours au top c'est du grand art comme d'habitude. J'aimerais tellement savoir faire aussi bien...
A french subscriber.