Great video. Another approach is to add tokens and run less pressure. This allows the fork to be very plush on small chatter, but still provide progressive ramp up bottoming resistance on bigger hits and bigger chunk.
@@brettclark3885 On mu SR SUNTOUR R2C2 I have the fork going down if I add less pressure, I want it like yam831 said it, pflush on top for smal bumps. I guess I need to service them now as I can put what I want for pressure, it still is a bit harsh now.
Simply stating that 30% SAG is a rule of thumb is a bit incorrect. 30% is typically too much for most bikes and riders. Sag is not some arbitrary number between 25% and 30%. It depends ON rider style, trails and the type of bike. Using tokens or volume spacers is only necessary when a rider is using nearly all the travel on the fork and sag is below that 25% mark. Conversely 20% is about the lowest amount of sag a rider would want. (of course this is dependent on riding style and type of rides) Spacers should only be used when big hit compliance is being compromised after proper sag is determined and set. Most trail riders who do not send it off drops, dirt jumps or ramps will not need spacers. Spacers reduce low speed/small bump compliance, which for most riders is more important. Adding spacers has the tendency to make the fork and ride harsh. Then, the rider starts to adjust compression to try and compensate, but usually winds making it worse. Use spacers wisely. Not just for the sake of using spacers.
Johnny Bike I have this issue on my stock shock. Too many volume spacers and a super harsh ride. Currently playing with differing amounts as with them removed it’s a little too floppy. 👍. Good comment that most people miss tho. 👆
Awesome reply Johnny. I'm 140lbs with all my riding gear on. I had to go to the largest spacer in my fox dps rear, and had to add a spacer in my front fork to get my stumpjumper to perform how I wanted it to(with sag settings around .20%). I like my bike to feel lively, and poppy. Prior to this, it felt too cushy in the corners, and too soft off jumps and takeoffs. The ride isn't as plush now but the ultra plush ride was what I didn't like....however my gut tells me it's what most people want. Just not me. An added bonus was the extra bit of support in the mid stroke of my suspension from the reduced volume also reduced pedal strikes.
So from my understanding, the air pressure shouldn't stay the same when changing a token and the volume has changed. It's the sag that needs to be set the same. Meaning 80psi with no tokens may give 30% sag, but 80psi with a token added would not give the same sag. Thoughts? Great vid.
No, after the change of volume spacers the pressure for sag its change. If you adding spacer then pressure will drop because spacer reduced chamber volume and make more progressive and opposite when removing spacer.
Made a huge improvement on my 2014 Reba RL. This model was oem with no means of using tokens so I bought the kit . Initial pre token my fork would be plush but fly through travel and bottoming easily while adjusting to prevent bottoming meant too firm a ride with little small bump sensitivuty. Along with the token kit I extended my travel via a new air shaft to 120 from the stock 100 and now have a very plush initial travel , a supportive midstroke and no bottoming issues. Kinda odd that RS would issue a fork with such issues as a stock product considering I am probably near the typical rider weight.
@@High_OctaneJust to stop criticism a £5 socket would be worth it, you would have thought "Bike Guy" would have the correct gear to do the job, Standards !, great video tho, it's helped me out cheers
What happens, now that you are using 90 % of your travel on a normal trail, when you start hitting big drops and jumps. Would you put the token back in?
I've always been a believer that you should never bottom out your suspension. Regardless of your riding style. If you bottom out you may be causing damage to your fork, frame and shock linkage. Why? Because, bear with me here, once you bottom out.... you have no way of knowing by how much. In other words, when your o-ring reaches its limit of movement you have no way of knowing how much of a shock you are sending through your bike beyond that point. significant impacting on your frame and suspension components can cause damage or failure. It's called SUSPENSION for a reason. when you bottom out.... your suspension has failed to do it's job. Try this, clap your hands but hold back so when you clap your hands barely touch. The fact that they touched is bottom out. Now, clap your hands again only this time don't hold back let your hands impact full force. That was also a bottom out. The second time probably stung a little while the first one was barely noticeable but..... both were bottom outs once your hands touched. So, when you bottom out your suspension you've lost your ability to gauge how much potential damage you may be subjecting your bike to not to mention any potential injury to yourself...... sorry, didn't mean to drag this out. Cheers.
Absolutely agree. I got a 130mm hard tail four tokens in 90 psi I'm around 80 kilos I ride like a pig. I went down for some single tracks today (new bike I use around 65 percent of my suspension on definitely blue xc country. If I had to drop a 3 metres I would be around 85 to 90 if I do run one toket less I would destroy it. I don't understand why people run so soft their suspension. I always pump the recommendation 10 psi Higher and always one more token that factory always full open. If you see how suspension works they never fully used in any other disciplines
Great video. My Fox Float Performance came stock with 3 tokens and with correct sag for my weight (150 Lbs) it is very jarring over square edge chop. I will remove 1-2 and test. BTW, Fox recommends on 15% sag on front. 25-30 on rear.
Excellent video. I am in the middle of doing this on my v1 Hightower as well. I never use full travel. It came with two tokens installed. I just removed one. Coming off a broken hand, supple is good. Curious to see how it all works out. Not sure if you still have the bike, but how did it work out for you in the long run without tokens? Really cool to see someone with the same bike. Also, would you add a token of hitting gnarlier trails or just accept that you may harshly bottom out? Nice that it’s a quick change.
Hi! I have Pike rc3 160/150mm. No tokens inside, 65psi, im 81kg with gear. And i don't get full 160mm of travel no matter how hard I compress the fork. Any idea..?
No. That would just increase spring rate, and in doing so the higher spring rate would make small bump sensitivity worse. It might result in similar bottom out performance, but the reason for the tokens is to have a more progressive curve where the spring rate rises quicker as you go through travel.
I was thinking about Removing mine off my 2020 Santa Cruz 5010. and have 150 mm of travel instead of 130mm but I ride hard. So I’ll probably leave it in.
With Tokens you can effectively reduce the diving when you hit a section with big roots and such but high speed compression would do the same while the fork can stay more linear, right ?
Tokens would work with your high speed compression damping. This is effectively controlling ramp-up in air pressure, akin to having a progressive spring that gets stiffer towards full compression.
Hi I have a 2018 Fox 32 sc fork, after 3 months of using it, I noticed that I only use 80-90 percent of travel and I found out that my fork has 2 volume spacers installed as default, would you recommend that I should remove the 2 volume spacers?
Only remove the volume spacers if your sag is set up correctly. Sag is the first thing to check so that you are sure your air spring is not set too firm. If sag is set up correctly and still do not use all the travel then remove an air token and start again.
@@rider65 He didn't mention SAG. He only stated that he uses only 80-90% travel. We will assume his SAG is set between 20-30%. James mentions SAG - wisely and correctly - only as a precautionary first step. No one is saying that the tokens are a replacement for correct SAG. That said, I agree 100% with you that id one isn't using 90-100% travel on ALL rides, then no tokens are needed. But again, this assumes correct SAG
What's up james. I'm trying to re-purpose rear fox shocks for a small child size gokart. The standard pressure is way to high. Can this be reduced to achieve actual compression with say 50lbs of force?
Hey bud question. So I just bought a Scott Scale 950 and it comes with a FOX 32 Float Rhythm 100mm Fork. Here’s my situation. I’m no lightweight. I’m 6’2 240lbs. Shock air pressure chart shows max pressure should be no higher the 140psi for a guy my size. The bike shop filled it to 120 and said try this out. Well I was picking up some speed to just a curb and I bottomed out the shock. So I maxed out the air pressure at 140psi. And I still wasn’t 100% happy with it. My 20 year old bike which has a RockShox I can put 150psi and it rides great. I’m guessing my new shock has one of those spacers. If I remove it would I be able to add more air pressure??
Is it common to have an uneven number of spacers in your fork and shock? For example, +one spacer up front and +2 in the rear? Or is that not normal and will cause imbalances in the chassis
Question. Couldn't achieve full travel on my Rockshox yari with 1 token installed as I was reaching about 80% of the travel but never ever more than that with the sag set at 30%. Thought I could have a bit more performance from It , so I tried removing the spacer and kept the same sag and now I seem to be using even less travel and the fork feels harsher on small bumps. I don't get It, shouldn't It be the other way around? Would you suggest trying coil?
Sounds like too much compression damping or to much air pressure. keep in mind when you remove air tokens you have to reset sag. The air pressure actually lowers as you add volume because it's "pounds per square inch" so if you increase volume and keep the same PSI you are making the fork stiffer. So be sure you are resetting sag after every change
@@Jamesthebikeguy Sorry, I did not explain well. I reset the sag at 30% as before removing the token. Compression fully open, fork new and used for 3 months only and the stanchions are still well lubricated by the foam rings. I literally tried to go nose diving on 1mt drop almost to flat going fast to see if I could make It move more than 80% of the travel. Stil nothing. Works fine when removing all the air, so I don't think It has any kind of defect. Should I try go by pressure instead of sag? Or even, could I try to change the rear shock settings so I end up weighting more the front wheel without jeopardizing my body position? I wouldn't want to change too many things at once. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you very much.
Just took mine apart and it used a splinned socket that I happened to have as it is for a crank arm or something. I found and removed the offending tokens. Problem solved (at even 30% sag I only got about 1/2 travel).
Hi, I wanted to know if the maximum pressure changes when we change the number of tokens. For example the rockshox sid has a maximum of 195psi. If I put tokens does the maximum change?
Max pressure will not change when you adjust the tokens. Reason being, that PSI is "Pounds per Square Inch" meaning that the pressure is relative to the size of the chamber and will not affect the seals' ability to hold in this application.
This is silly but a crescent wrench is definitely NOT designed for bending sheet metal. It’s designed as an adjustable wrench to be One tool useful for working on various sized nuts. There is no reason for a crescent wrench to be able to open to 2 inches wide and more if it’s for bending metal that’s 1/8” thick. This is hilarious.
@@pjsanabSure... but why would I remove a working old part, and install a new one to make it easier to remove? Makes no sense, the adjustment is already complete
@@JrsGasolineAlley My statement that you scratched the fork is correct whether it is a basic mountain bike or not. At 6:22 you also state that you put electrical tape to prevent marring the finish. So you did attempt to prevent scratches but failed in this attempt.
Uh... What? Wrenches are made for adjusting fasteners (nut, bolt, ect). While a socket from someone like Abbey Tools would be a significant improvement the tool I was using is correct for this. I use the electrical tape even on bottom brackets to avoid nicking the finish even with a specific BB tool.
Sorry bro, a crescent wrench is not intended to turn bolts. Its purpose is to bend metal. Seriously, look it up. You should be using a box end spanner or a socket.
Great video. Another approach is to add tokens and run less pressure. This allows the fork to be very plush on small chatter, but still provide progressive ramp up bottoming resistance on bigger hits and bigger chunk.
One day I look forward to trying the Shock Wiz from Quarq to see what it tells me for suspension setup
You're totally right Bro
Won't you end up with a sag that gives you less suspension travel though?
@@jtruong29 no, the amount of travel of the fork remains the same. you are simply changing the amount of ramp in the usage of the travel.
@@brettclark3885 On mu SR SUNTOUR R2C2 I have the fork going down if I add less pressure, I want it like yam831 said it, pflush on top for smal bumps. I guess I need to service them now as I can put what I want for pressure, it still is a bit harsh now.
Simply stating that 30% SAG is a rule of thumb is a bit incorrect. 30% is typically too much for most bikes and riders. Sag is not some arbitrary number between 25% and 30%. It depends ON rider style, trails and the type of bike. Using tokens or volume spacers is only necessary when a rider is using nearly all the travel on the fork and sag is below that 25% mark.
Conversely 20% is about the lowest amount of sag a rider would want. (of course this is dependent on riding style and type of rides)
Spacers should only be used when big hit compliance is being compromised after proper sag is determined and set.
Most trail riders who do not send it off drops, dirt jumps or ramps will not need spacers.
Spacers reduce low speed/small bump compliance, which for most riders is more important. Adding spacers has the tendency to make the fork and ride harsh. Then, the rider starts to adjust compression to try and compensate, but usually winds making it worse. Use spacers wisely. Not just for the sake of using spacers.
Johnny Bike I have this issue on my stock shock. Too many volume spacers and a super harsh ride. Currently playing with differing amounts as with them removed it’s a little too floppy. 👍. Good comment that most people miss tho. 👆
Yes..YEs. YES!👍
Awesome reply Johnny. I'm 140lbs with all my riding gear on. I had to go to the largest spacer in my fox dps rear, and had to add a spacer in my front fork to get my stumpjumper to perform how I wanted it to(with sag settings around .20%). I like my bike to feel lively, and poppy. Prior to this, it felt too cushy in the corners, and too soft off jumps and takeoffs. The ride isn't as plush now but the ultra plush ride was what I didn't like....however my gut tells me it's what most people want. Just not me. An added bonus was the extra bit of support in the mid stroke of my suspension from the reduced volume also reduced pedal strikes.
Great explanation of how the air spring system works and what to do to change how it rides.
Thanks!
Nice explanatory vid James
So from my understanding, the air pressure shouldn't stay the same when changing a token and the volume has changed. It's the sag that needs to be set the same. Meaning 80psi with no tokens may give 30% sag, but 80psi with a token added would not give the same sag. Thoughts? Great vid.
You want the air pressure the same when adding tokens so that progression is produced by volume spacers and not the amount of air added
No, after the change of volume spacers the pressure for sag its change. If you adding spacer then pressure will drop because spacer reduced chamber volume and make more progressive and opposite when removing spacer.
Made a huge improvement on my 2014 Reba RL. This model was oem with no means of using tokens so I bought the kit .
Initial pre token my fork would be plush but fly through travel and bottoming easily while adjusting to prevent bottoming meant too firm a ride with little small bump sensitivuty. Along with the token kit I extended my travel via a new air shaft to 120 from the stock 100 and now have a very plush initial travel , a supportive midstroke and no bottoming issues.
Kinda odd that RS would issue a fork with such issues as a stock product considering I am probably near the typical rider weight.
Nice, using the tokens really does help!
schlooonginator where did you buy the volume spacers?
Awesome video! I was a bit worried at first to use the adjustable spanner and tape, but she worked like a charm. Super easy, and no damage.
Glad it worked out for you!
thank you dude! i dont have any fancy air suspension but at least now I know how tokens work!
Saweeet!
Treat yourself to the correct socket
One day...
It would have saved the scratch he put on the crown...
@@masters40 screw you guys. fancy pants. thanks for the vid man! REAL helpful. unlike these dicks.
@@High_OctaneJust to stop criticism a £5 socket would be worth it, you would have thought "Bike Guy" would have the correct gear to do the job, Standards !, great video tho, it's helped me out cheers
What happens, now that you are using 90 % of your travel on a normal trail, when you start hitting big drops and jumps. Would you put the token back in?
I've always been a believer that you should never bottom out your suspension. Regardless of your riding style. If you bottom out you may be causing damage to your fork, frame and shock linkage. Why? Because, bear with me here, once you bottom out.... you have no way of knowing by how much. In other words, when your o-ring reaches its limit of movement you have no way of knowing how much of a shock you are sending through your bike beyond that point. significant impacting on your frame and suspension components can cause damage or failure. It's called SUSPENSION for a reason. when you bottom out.... your suspension has failed to do it's job. Try this, clap your hands but hold back so when you clap your hands barely touch. The fact that they touched is bottom out. Now, clap your hands again only this time don't hold back let your hands impact full force. That was also a bottom out. The second time probably stung a little while the first one was barely noticeable but..... both were bottom outs once your hands touched. So, when you bottom out your suspension you've lost your ability to gauge how much potential damage you may be subjecting your bike to not to mention any potential injury to yourself...... sorry, didn't mean to drag this out. Cheers.
Absolutely agree. I got a 130mm hard tail four tokens in 90 psi I'm around 80 kilos I ride like a pig. I went down for some single tracks today (new bike I use around 65 percent of my suspension on definitely blue xc country. If I had to drop a 3 metres I would be around 85 to 90 if I do run one toket less I would destroy it. I don't understand why people run so soft their suspension. I always pump the recommendation 10 psi Higher and always one more token that factory always full open. If you see how suspension works they never fully used in any other disciplines
Great video. My Fox Float Performance came stock with 3 tokens and with correct sag for my weight (150 Lbs) it is very jarring over square edge chop. I will remove 1-2 and test. BTW, Fox recommends on 15% sag on front. 25-30 on rear.
Very thorough and excellent presentation on the use of air tokens!
Awesome, thanks. Hope it helps you set up your own shock!
Excellent video. I am in the middle of doing this on my v1 Hightower as well. I never use full travel. It came with two tokens installed. I just removed one. Coming off a broken hand, supple is good. Curious to see how it all works out. Not sure if you still have the bike, but how did it work out for you in the long run without tokens? Really cool to see someone with the same bike. Also, would you add a token of hitting gnarlier trails or just accept that you may harshly bottom out? Nice that it’s a quick change.
Perfect!!!! Thanks for the info. Broken down perfectly
Thanks, good luck tuning!
Very useful, thx alot!
All at Full Open on the Conditions Lever? Did not discuss how using the Conditions lever will also come into effect.
Hi! I have Pike rc3 160/150mm. No tokens inside, 65psi, im 81kg with gear. And i don't get full 160mm of travel no matter how hard I compress the fork. Any idea..?
Btw the Y axis is the pressure inside the chamber
Would pumping up the fork and shock to a higher PSI achieve the same result (more progressivity) as adding tokens?
No. That would just increase spring rate, and in doing so the higher spring rate would make small bump sensitivity worse. It might result in similar bottom out performance, but the reason for the tokens is to have a more progressive curve where the spring rate rises quicker as you go through travel.
@@Jamesthebikeguy Thanks!
Love it! A Santa Cruz bike for 3000$ + a key for removing giant screws on a ship ;)
lol
I have the reba model but what does “gate” mean on my forks
I was thinking about Removing mine off my 2020 Santa Cruz 5010. and have 150 mm of travel instead of 130mm but I ride hard. So I’ll probably leave it in.
That is not how these work.
the best explanation ! thanks
Glad to help!
With Tokens you can effectively reduce the diving when you hit a section with big roots and such but high speed compression would do the same while the fork can stay more linear, right ?
Tokens would work with your high speed compression damping. This is effectively controlling ramp-up in air pressure, akin to having a progressive spring that gets stiffer towards full compression.
Yes, BUT..you wil sacrifice low speed/small bump compliance.
@@rider65 Dialing suspension can be subtle compromises depending on terrain.
@@77rockcity Yup, That's what I effectively stated. Dependent on trail, terrain and riding style.
Hi I have a 2018 Fox 32 sc fork, after 3 months of using it, I noticed that I only use 80-90 percent of travel and I found out that my fork has 2 volume spacers installed as default, would you recommend that I should remove the 2 volume spacers?
Only remove the volume spacers if your sag is set up correctly. Sag is the first thing to check so that you are sure your air spring is not set too firm. If sag is set up correctly and still do not use all the travel then remove an air token and start again.
Tokens have less to do with SAG than they do with big bump/big hit compliance. If you're not using more than 90% of travel NO need to use tokens.
@@rider65 He didn't mention SAG. He only stated that he uses only 80-90% travel. We will assume his SAG is set between 20-30%. James mentions SAG - wisely and correctly - only as a precautionary first step. No one is saying that the tokens are a replacement for correct SAG. That said, I agree 100% with you that id one isn't using 90-100% travel on ALL rides, then no tokens are needed. But again, this assumes correct SAG
What's up james. I'm trying to re-purpose rear fox shocks for a small child size gokart. The standard pressure is way to high. Can this be reduced to achieve actual compression with say 50lbs of force?
Not sure might be a good idea to talk to a place that does custom suspension work like PUSH Industries or such.
Jamesthebikeguy Thanks, I'll check them out.
Hey bud question. So I just bought a Scott Scale 950 and it comes with a FOX 32 Float Rhythm 100mm Fork. Here’s my situation. I’m no lightweight. I’m 6’2 240lbs. Shock air pressure chart shows max pressure should be no higher the 140psi for a guy my size. The bike shop filled it to 120 and said try this out. Well I was picking up some speed to just a curb and I bottomed out the shock. So I maxed out the air pressure at 140psi. And I still wasn’t 100% happy with it. My 20 year old bike which has a RockShox I can put 150psi and it rides great. I’m guessing my new shock has one of those spacers. If I remove it would I be able to add more air pressure??
No. Changing tokens does not effect max pressure. What you do want to do is add tokens, not remove. More tokens solve bottom out.
Jamesthebikeguy thanks
Is it common to have an uneven number of spacers in your fork and shock? For example, +one spacer up front and +2 in the rear? Or is that not normal and will cause imbalances in the chassis
That is totally normal.
Excellent video, I used the same tool, it works just as good as a socket, just needs to use extra care
Thank you, glad it helped!
If you use the same air pressure with an increase in volume why would sag stay the same?.
QUESTION : so each token represents how many mm's of travel? :) 35mms is my guess :)
The tokens do not change suspension travel.
Question.
Couldn't achieve full travel on my Rockshox yari with 1 token installed as I was reaching about 80% of the travel but never ever more than that with the sag set at 30%. Thought I could have a bit more performance from It , so I tried removing the spacer and kept the same sag and now I seem to be using even less travel and the fork feels harsher on small bumps. I don't get It, shouldn't It be the other way around? Would you suggest trying coil?
Sounds like too much compression damping or to much air pressure. keep in mind when you remove air tokens you have to reset sag. The air pressure actually lowers as you add volume because it's "pounds per square inch" so if you increase volume and keep the same PSI you are making the fork stiffer. So be sure you are resetting sag after every change
@@Jamesthebikeguy Sorry, I did not explain well. I reset the sag at 30% as before removing the token. Compression fully open, fork new and used for 3 months only and the stanchions are still well lubricated by the foam rings. I literally tried to go nose diving on 1mt drop almost to flat going fast to see if I could make It move more than 80% of the travel. Stil nothing. Works fine when removing all the air, so I don't think It has any kind of defect. Should I try go by pressure instead of sag? Or even, could I try to change the rear shock settings so I end up weighting more the front wheel without jeopardizing my body position? I wouldn't want to change too many things at once. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you very much.
we're you riding trails that were bottom out worthy tho?
Sure was, keep in mind you should be using the majority of your suspension travel during your regular rides.
Sorry for asking. Can tokens be used to decrease travel also?
No. You need a different air shaft for that.
Just took mine apart and it used a splinned socket that I happened to have as it is for a crank arm or something. I found and removed the offending tokens. Problem solved (at even 30% sag I only got about 1/2 travel).
nice!
Hello! Thank you! 😊!
Thank you too!
Hi, I wanted to know if the maximum pressure changes when we change the number of tokens.
For example the rockshox sid has a maximum of 195psi.
If I put tokens does the maximum change?
Max pressure will not change when you adjust the tokens. Reason being, that PSI is "Pounds per Square Inch" meaning that the pressure is relative to the size of the chamber and will not affect the seals' ability to hold in this application.
What bike was this, Hightower, or Hightower LT?
Hightower.
Wow. Should not use adjustable wrench on that like it is a sink pipe. But, I liked your graphs.
worked just fine
This is silly but a crescent wrench is definitely NOT designed for bending sheet metal. It’s designed as an adjustable wrench to be One tool useful for working on various sized nuts. There is no reason for a crescent wrench to be able to open to 2 inches wide and more if it’s for bending metal that’s 1/8” thick. This is hilarious.
lol True.
Nice video
Thank you, hope it helped.
A Cassette Socket will remove it perfectly. It's designed for that socket
Well the 2019+ forks yes. But earlier years did not have that option
@@Jamesthebikeguy I believe you can buy the modern cap and install it.
@@pjsanabSure... but why would I remove a working old part, and install a new one to make it easier to remove? Makes no sense, the adjustment is already complete
That feel when you scratch your crown
Can't wait to crash and scratch the fork anyway
Soooo helpful.. but that sharpie squeak..
Lol
should of used a socket to avoid scratching the forks
Works either way
@@Jamesthebikeguy But you scratched the fork...
@@aedsy Luckily I ride the bike so scratches don't make any difference. You would be correct if this was some museum piece, just a basic mountain bike
@@JrsGasolineAlley My statement that you scratched the fork is correct whether it is a basic mountain bike or not. At 6:22 you also state that you put electrical tape to prevent marring the finish. So you did attempt to prevent scratches but failed in this attempt.
Buying proper tools would also prevent marring bolts. Crescent wrenches are intended for bending sheet metal, not removing bolts.
Uh... What? Wrenches are made for adjusting fasteners (nut, bolt, ect). While a socket from someone like Abbey Tools would be a significant improvement the tool I was using is correct for this. I use the electrical tape even on bottom brackets to avoid nicking the finish even with a specific BB tool.
Sorry bro, a crescent wrench is not intended to turn bolts. Its purpose is to bend metal. Seriously, look it up. You should be using a box end spanner or a socket.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adjustable_spanner
goo.gl/fZSBnf
Thank you for the advice.
Cannot believe people do shit like that,man buy the right fucking tool,if you can afford the shock ,then you can afford to buy the the right tool.
What an interesting perspective, glad you chimed in.