@@twen7yseven Same deal, they are allowed to touch the starting holds during the initial 6 minute inspection, so I assume he chalked up to feel how the friction conditions are shaping up. You can even see one of the Japanese team members touching the start holds as they cut away form the inspection IIRC. Let me find the time stamp.
Don't stress Kai. You are probably the strongest and most relaxed climber to ever grace the scene. Keep pushing champion, world cups are waiting for you.
Loved how Natsuki was working around that wide hold spacing where Ai fell. The smaller female climbers clearly had to fight more here. Jain Kim tho. Just controlled everything.
Always happy to see Jain climbing and enjoying. Congratulations! And I can't believe the camera crew didn't show Alannah's face, not even once... Come on iFSC! You can do better than this.
Interesting to see different active athletes in the commentary box. Margo has good screen presence and a nice voice.. future commentator or maybe her own show 🐾
If I'm not mistaken, for most modern climbing walls - the bolts aren't actually just drilled on like regular holds. Most bolts can't be moved because they're attached to a steel plate embedded into the steel frame of the wall or the wall itself. Which is a good thing in terms of safety but terrible for comps.
In the beginning, Charlie says SEO can win the overall title here, but Adam cannot. Well now Adam has 300 points. Second place Kai has 189. There is only one World Cup left. You can get max 100 points (first place). Sooo how can anyone catch Adam??? Does anyone know?
"it's interesting....it's interesting to see....very interesting wall....interesting thing....very interesting line up....it's interesting to seeeeeeee"
This would've worked better if the semi finals results took significance after time instead of before. Then if the route is too easy they still have something to compete for.
Sorry about the stupid question but as Tomoa Narasaki did a better time than Taisei Homma I do not get why the latter ends up in the front, followed by the former.
The first tie-breaker is the countback to the ranking from the previous round. Time is only a factor if they came out of the previous round (or rounds) tied, and even then, in the final, only for podium positions.
Always thought that Jain Kim was a tall climber. I was shocked to learn she is only 5 ft tall. I wish the commentators would give up commenting on Jain's time as it is always the same rubbish and she has 29 world cups under belt, you can bet she knows EXACTLY what she is doing.
It's hard to set a 30 moves route with no real overhangs. Even youth comps have longer routes. But, agree, a disastrous setting here in Xiamen. Anyway, Blame IFSC for wall and setters selection.
As for me those were pretty cool routes. Although 3 tops from men, big diversity in terms of movement, and still pretty good separation - not topped climbers fell on different moves.
Don't think it was the rope... If you see she falls 4-5 quickdraws before the rope goes taut so there was quite a bit of slack The problem was probably just that the move had to be done statically, hence why all 3 climbers who tried the jump failed
Janja, like many gifted champions just needs to re-evaluate her game plan. She could have won this easily. Hopefully this defeat will inspire her to adjust her style just a little and analyse more carefully. I'm no mind reader, but she seems to love being the great Janja, and winning may have come easily to her. Now she has excellent competition nipping at her heals, or actually surpassing her. So, back to the drawing board to make adjustments, a trusted adviser/trainer would be of great benefit. I would love to see her back on top and making her current comp. chase after the great Janja once again. She's far too young to be a has been.
Spoiler: Janja was climbing TOP, BUT..... what happened? Too greedy at the last dyno ?? Next time PLEASE a bit more tactics! Chaehyun is currenty the most cionsistent women climber.... .
@@kumatobazha4003 Yes, correct, it's her style to underline the impressive climb she is able to do (a bit show at the end). But the position was not so easy for a quick/risky dyno without preparation!
Unfortunately, by far the worst wc event this year despite a good bunch of brilliant climbers there. Terrible route setting, terrible camera action, lame public, lame wall. Ditch china next year.
Dude. Charlie Boscoe is an awesome commentator, and author of a Chamonix climbing guidebook. I guess he climbs. And Margo Hayes did the worlds first female 9a+ route..
I'm in the minority too, but I personally find that these are infinitely improved with the sound off. Anyway I've heard enough of the Bosco commentary that I can reconstruct it for all the future times: Akiyo is 30, she's the oldest climber on the circuit, Jain Kim is a legend and still going strong, Ondra is the best climber ever, Tomoa never does anything right, he's either lucky or deservedly in the last place, anybody who stops for a moment to think about beta is a cerebral climber, people are usually doing just fine and showing no sign of pump just before falling off, and Charlie's just chatted to Janja and she said whatever. Also, she's on another planet and he wouldn't bet against her. The only person who can best him is the woman who did Doha, who really does not climb at all, and who at one point actually said "the goal is to reach the top boulder".
it's very hard to commentate events and at the same moment be ok for all listeners. Overall Charlie seems to be the best climbing commentator so far. And yes, he is climbing.
17:43 Tamoa Narasaki
21:48 Sean Bailey
25:18 Taisei Homma
30:22 Meichi Narasaki
35:55 Jesse Grupper
41:14 Alberto Gines Lopez
45:55 Adam Ondra
51:37 Kai Harada
1:28:19 Lucka Rakovec
1:34:53 Ai Mori
1:38:07 Natsuki Tanii
1:45:44 Ievgeniia Kazbekova
1:53:57 Jain Kim
2:02:15 Akiyo Noguchi
2:09:41 YueTong Zhang
2:16:31 Chaehyun Seo
2:22:34 Janja Garnbret
doing gods work son
My hero
God bless you
thanks dude
Chris Bartlett I am not your son
5:17 Ondra chalking up already on the visualisation of the route xD
Nice catch, that's hilarious! He keeps doing it too omg hahaha. So intense!
@@twen7yseven (They do get to touch the starting holds)
@@riccokane What?! Lol I know that, we're talking about him chalking up during the inspection...
@@twen7yseven Same deal, they are allowed to touch the starting holds during the initial 6 minute inspection, so I assume he chalked up to feel how the friction conditions are shaping up. You can even see one of the Japanese team members touching the start holds as they cut away form the inspection IIRC. Let me find the time stamp.
@@twen7yseven 7:20 you can see they are allowed to touch the starting holds from the ground during inspection, thats why Adam is chalked up.
What an absolute disaster of a final. Thanks Charlie, you made this bearable.
After watching the Adidas Rock-star Final, I appreciate the IFSC commentary infinitely more. Well done
hahahahha. The camera work was bad too.
So true, male commentator from Adidas Rockstars needs extra dose of Relanium
@@SromBlessed yeah, but i think adidas wanted it flashy, loud and fast. But its just annoying.
Great Jain Kim!!!!! Always a pleasure to watch her climbing!!!
Don't stress Kai. You are probably the strongest and most relaxed climber to ever grace the scene. Keep pushing champion, world cups are waiting for you.
Heartbreaking Kai Harada and Ai Mori...
But beautiful top from Kim !
men observation : 4:52
men start : 17:45
women observation : 1:15:23
women start : 1:28:22
you sir are a god to us
God bless you
Janja G. u do great job just enjoy and dont worry, will be next time.
Janja whyy!? She and Kai need to enjoy a drink and training session together
Ach! I was living 10 minutes further up the beach! Wish I'd discovered sport climbing sooner!
정말 오랜만에 시원하게 탑 홀드 탕탕 치며 웃는 얼굴로 내려오는 김자인 선수의 모습을 보네요. 정말 멋집니다 고생했어요! 서채현선수도 멋졌습니다!
I'm wrong, I wanted to see the lead finals, but I'm looking at speed
It's been years but I'm still crying for Kai. It was so heartbreaking
Loved how Natsuki was working around that wide hold spacing where Ai fell.
The smaller female climbers clearly had to fight more here.
Jain Kim tho. Just controlled everything.
Always happy to see Jain climbing and enjoying. Congratulations! And I can't believe the camera crew didn't show Alannah's face, not even once... Come on iFSC! You can do better than this.
love to see adam and janja. they are my favorite climbers !!!
Interesting to see different active athletes in the commentary box. Margo has good screen presence and a nice voice.. future commentator or maybe her own show 🐾
김자인 3초 남기고 완등! 심장 쫄깃합니다. 서채현은 이제 말이 필요 없네요. 한국 선수 두 명이나 입상하다니 감격, 자랑스럽습니다. Janja은 이번 대회 잠 안오겠어요. ;; 하~~ 시간도 많이 남았는데
마음에 조급함이 있어서 서둘렀던듯
해요
채현선수가 잘한거죠
is that dj trolling the climbers? rickroll, who let the dogs out? seriously?
Right? I'd be fucking livid if they started playing Rick Astley during my finals run.
I love how they're chatting with each other. Seems super sportsmanlike!
ADAM IS THE KING
Alannah’s awesome
What song is playing at 1:29:00? It's lit! I need it!!
oh god what a pity for kai hirada.
Holy heck, I remember when Janja was just a young newcomer to the ifsc.
Good Feel Good People and world Championship your own...!
Genuine question: why cant they just take the bolts out?
If I'm not mistaken, for most modern climbing walls - the bolts aren't actually just drilled on like regular holds. Most bolts can't be moved because they're attached to a steel plate embedded into the steel frame of the wall or the wall itself. Which is a good thing in terms of safety but terrible for comps.
In the beginning, Charlie says SEO can win the overall title here, but Adam cannot. Well now Adam has 300 points. Second place Kai has 189. There is only one World Cup left. You can get max 100 points (first place). Sooo how can anyone catch Adam??? Does anyone know?
Yes, "in the beginning" Harada still had a chance. But not after. Ondra is already a 2019 WC winner.
"it's interesting....it's interesting to see....very interesting wall....interesting thing....very interesting line up....it's interesting to seeeeeeee"
This would've worked better if the semi finals results took significance after time instead of before. Then if the route is too easy they still have something to compete for.
Yep, final was super underwhelming. Tomoa ran up the wall in the final like a champion, but it didn't matter at all.
Kai... :(
2:00:05 Wow, what strength and flexibility. Insane move by Jain Kim.
Adam good shit.
Sorry about the stupid question but as Tomoa Narasaki did a better time than Taisei Homma I do not get why the latter ends up in the front, followed by the former.
Carlos Lopez Pombo I don‘t get it either? Would like to know as well 😄
The first tie-breaker is the countback to the ranking from the previous round. Time is only a factor if they came out of the previous round (or rounds) tied, and even then, in the final, only for podium positions.
Adam Ondra 45:38
47:14 Ondra using a bold hold for his left foot :(
hmm, from my view the women`s route looks harder as the man`s route...
..routesetters "0", climbers "10" ;)
Route setting was not great.
Terrible to be exact.
caster curse is strong in this one
Always thought that Jain Kim was a tall climber. I was shocked to learn she is only 5 ft tall. I wish the commentators would give up commenting on Jain's time as it is always the same rubbish and she has 29 world cups under belt, you can bet she knows EXACTLY what she is doing.
I just realized that I speak exactly like the female commentator :O
Chuckle after every sentence
Not take the best by the time tomoa the first normaly
Why did Ondra won? Tamoa Narasaki was quicker than him. what happened ?
Marco Silva they explained many times that time doesn’t matter but the position they had from semis
@@mattyandle2104I don't fully understand english language. Thank you!
That was such a boring final
Top after top...
Routesetting was very strange. Goodness knows what happened.
It's hard to set a 30 moves route with no real overhangs. Even youth comps have longer routes. But, agree, a disastrous setting here in Xiamen. Anyway, Blame IFSC for wall and setters selection.
As for me those were pretty cool routes. Although 3 tops from men, big diversity in terms of movement, and still pretty good separation - not topped climbers fell on different moves.
Janja will be truly amazing when she learns to take fewer unnecessary risks.
super under cooked routes too easy
Don’t read the comments if your watching this for the 1st time, almost ruined it for me ... almost
Looks to me like Janja’s rope drags on the last jump, could the belayer have been unprepared for that quick jump? She looks furious...
Don't think it was the rope... If you see she falls 4-5 quickdraws before the rope goes taut so there was quite a bit of slack
The problem was probably just that the move had to be done statically, hence why all 3 climbers who tried the jump failed
nah she fluft it
i think her foot got caught in the qickdraw a bit as well..
I disagree, I think she misread the move, and was rushing because time was a factor
Janja, like many gifted champions just needs to re-evaluate her game plan. She could have won this easily. Hopefully this defeat will inspire her to adjust her style just a little and analyse more carefully.
I'm no mind reader, but she seems to love being the great Janja, and winning may have come easily to her. Now she has excellent competition nipping at her heals, or actually surpassing her. So, back to the drawing board to make adjustments, a trusted adviser/trainer would be of great benefit. I would love to see her back on top and making her current comp. chase after the great Janja once again. She's far too young to be a has been.
Spoiler:
Janja was climbing TOP, BUT..... what happened? Too greedy at the last dyno ?? Next time PLEASE a bit more tactics!
Chaehyun is currenty the most cionsistent women climber....
.
I think that’s just her style, and it works for her. But naturally it also means slips can happen more often :)
@@kumatobazha4003 Yes, correct, it's her style to underline the impressive climb she is able to do (a bit show at the end). But the position was not so easy for a quick/risky dyno without preparation!
What a bad route design. Was too boring to watch it.
Worst music - ouch
Unfortunately, by far the worst wc event this year despite a good bunch of brilliant climbers there. Terrible route setting, terrible camera action, lame public, lame wall. Ditch china next year.
Sadly the IFSC are dependent on the local TV channel for coverage.
17:45 if you can't bare listening to the commentators waffling
This shouldn't be held in China ! Free Hong Kong !
waste of a world cup rubber. sports climbing better not do this at Tokyo 20 or we are farq'd
Laowai Cringing moment 🤣 1:30:12
rick rolling @ 1:43:55 ...jeez chinese people stop the cringy music
hahaha
But "rick rolling" isn't a thing in China. It's just cultural difference.
The commentator needs to be replaced by the commentator from the european championships, or by someone who actually climbs.
Dude. Charlie Boscoe is an awesome commentator, and author of a Chamonix climbing guidebook. I guess he climbs. And Margo Hayes did the worlds first female 9a+ route..
@4l ... Dude... Do some research...
I'm in the minority too, but I personally find that these are infinitely improved with the sound off. Anyway I've heard enough of the Bosco commentary that I can reconstruct it for all the future times: Akiyo is 30, she's the oldest climber on the circuit, Jain Kim is a legend and still going strong, Ondra is the best climber ever, Tomoa never does anything right, he's either lucky or deservedly in the last place, anybody who stops for a moment to think about beta is a cerebral climber, people are usually doing just fine and showing no sign of pump just before falling off, and Charlie's just chatted to Janja and she said whatever. Also, she's on another planet and he wouldn't bet against her.
The only person who can best him is the woman who did Doha, who really does not climb at all, and who at one point actually said "the goal is to reach the top boulder".
it's very hard to commentate events and at the same moment be ok for all listeners. Overall Charlie seems to be the best climbing commentator so far.
And yes, he is climbing.