IFSC Climbing World Cup Munich 2017 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2017
- Watch the full replay of the Bouldering finals at #IFSCwc Munich, the season finale!
All the information about the event on:
www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.ph...
About IFSC:
The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.
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The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!
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Website: www.ifsc-climbing.org/
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LinkedIn: / international-federati... - Спорт
Alex PUCCIO 0:21:00 0:40:23 1:06:33 1:32:20
Shauna COXSEY 0:25:29 0:44:53 1:11:20 1:36:00
Petra KLINGLER 0:27:44 0:49:13 1:15:28 1:38:07
Stasa GEJO 0:31:58 0:53:30 1:19:49 1:42:36
Janja GARNBRET 0:36:11 0:58:05 1:22:43 1:46:50
Akiyo NOGUCHI 0:38:37 1:01:40 1:27:12 1:50:47
Yoshiyuki OGATA 1:59:45 2:18:57 2:43:50 3:02:45
Jan HOJER 2:02:30 2:23:30 2:46:17 3:07:13
Tomoa NARASAKI 2:07:10 2:24:57 2:48:13 3:10:00
Taisei ISHIMATSU 2:10:50 2:29:30 2:50:33 3:13:33
Kokoro FUJII 2:12:13 2:34:00 2:54:45 3:17:27
Jongwon CHON 2:15:49 2:38:40 2:59:47 3:22:15
there should be more people like you
3:35:57 "The guy who made those flower arrangements is like 'why do i fucking bother?!'" Too funny!
The voice of one of the announcers during the men's portion was cracking so much I could climb it.
Schrodinger this comment is underrated as fuck
Yeah, and 3 years on that man is only the second to redpoint a 9c.
That “man” is Alex megos
MEN (WOMEN BELOW)
Ogata - Hojer - Narasaki - Ishimatsu - Fuju - Chon
#1 1:59:45 - 2:02:15 - 2:07:20 - 2:11:00 - 2:12:10 - 2:15:50
#2 2:18:55 - 2:23:15 - 2:24:50 - 2:29:50 - 2:34:00 - 2:38:45
#3 2:43:55 - 2:46:05 - 2:48:35 - 2:50:55 - 2:54:45 - 2:59:50
#4 3:02:55 - 3:07:10 - 3:10:15 - 3:13:55 - 3:17:50 - 3:22:55
Puccio - Coxsey - Klingler - Gejo - Garnbret - Noguchi
#1 0:21:05 - 0:25:40 - 0:27:40 - 0:32:05 - 0:36:15 - 0:38:40
#2 0:40:40 - 0:45:10 - 0:49:15 - 0:53:35 - 0:58:05 - 1:01:45
#3 1:06:40 - 1:11:20 - 1:15:30 - 1:19:55 - 1:22:50 - 1:27:30
#4 1:32:30 - 1:35:55 - 1:38:15 - 1:42:40 - 1:46:50 - 1:51:05
women #4 Gejo should be 1:42:40 not 1:32
Thx - we did the correction!
Thanx a lot!
Thx man!
Klettermafia o
With all the negativity I have to give you credit where it is due thank you for splitting the men and the women so we can focus on each more for the finals ifsc
3:10:29 LOL at Alex Megos swearing on the livestream because he was so excited for Jan Hojer!! Haha my absolute favourite moment :-)
whenever a judge told to a climber " your time is up, get down", my heart is broke
Janja❤
Amazing to get to watch this for free, but some of the routes were daft - if the climbers get stuck in the start zone it doesn't make for good watching
Ya that black route at 2:30:00 was terrible
Alex Puccio didn't even make it on the start position in climb #3. The commentators thought she had it but the judges were shaking their heads because she was missing the two-point contact on the lower green volume. This is frustrating to watch most of the way through.
Janja's finishing move at 1:00:42 is so funny, like a greeting to the audience. Really enjoy watching her climb.
26:21
Commentator: "...Camera in a perfect position to pick it up..."
Camera crew: *changes camera angle*
LAMO
@@hmhmhm7805 Laughing ass mine off
2:52:22 imagine trying to focus on a hard move and getting flashing ads
i was gonna comment the same!
i think its disrespectful forthe climber to flash the adds right where he wants to climb
Exactly what I thought ... It's so rubbish for the climbers >
Alexander Megos makes a really good commentator!
First female climber at 20:43
First male climber at 1:59:45
Stasa GEJO top of W3 was awesome
Really loved the setting in Munich and Alex as a cocommentator was so awesome.
now where are the people criticising a free online stream of a non profit organization because of mistakes in the first stream?
thanks for uploading again and thank you for the work! good comp with great problems...
The fact they played gangnamstyle during the Korean climber. 😅😅😅
She may not have won, but I feel like Gejo was the real hero of the women's bracket.
Really saved that third route from looking like a bunch of rubbish on a wall. XD
Her height allowed her positions that were impossible for the other women
Finally approved for an Olympic event, bout time eh? Such a demanding and disciplined sport, definately gonna be my new fav event to watch
This aged poorly.
@@reklanora lol
Lol no kidding
So Impressive Jan Hojer !! So happy for him ! So smooth in boulder n°2 !
Thank you!
Wow. I can only assume that something went badly wrong when rendering the video before uploading.
Can we please get this re-uploaded in a watchable state!
What you're seeing is interlaced video in all its glory. It's supposed to give a better frame rate, at the cost of becoming a spaghetti fest.
The problem with the slopes yellow holds looks like pure torture
The amount of grip strength you have to have to pinch those is unreal
thx fo hostin ;3
That was a really nice cup with beautifull boulder Problems. Thnx 4 streaming !!
Hojer was soooo amazing.. I was cherring and shouting at home like if i was at the audience.
Really nice
magnifico encuentro, Alex increíble como siempre
Love these videos. Anna Storh is the bomb. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the re-post after dropout issues on W1 and M2 on the live stream
So glad for Janja, she is such a strong athlete
Thank you, IFSC:)))
I feel like the womens boulder problems were phenomenal. Everyone struggled in their own way but every boulder got a top and all tops looked so different from each other in regards to effort
I thought it was in bad taste how the commentary for the men's competition treated the 4 Japanese athletes like they were interchangeable.
This is IFSC Climbing World Cup not IFSC Parkour World Cup
I feel the bouldering competition for men is a little unfair, only the 3rd problem is difficult for climbers, which can be easier for taller climbers, that’s the reason why Alex Megos said that only Jan can use the method which he did in 3rd problem.
Hard set of boulders for the women!
Epic film, bloody loved it!!
I love that they’re playing the interstellar theme song right here. 8:20
How many times do the commentators have to jinx them at a crucial moment!? :D impressive!
Love the phrase "industrial language"
Came to the comments to find this. I'm gonna start apologizing for "industrial language" when I swear from now on. Hahah what a moment
I felt route 2 was not possible for short heights. That gave advance to German climber. He was good one bt i had a doubt for route 2.
Thanks for the post. I reccomend avoiding an interlaced video though , it makes those horizontal lines.
It's weird that 1 top and 2 bonuses (Akiyo) beats 1 top and 3 bonuses (Stasa). I know it's based on the number of attempts for the tops, but it still seems like Stasa should be 3rd.
Bonus can be taken if after qualification, semi-final and final, climbers are still equal.
As Stasa and Akiyo were not equal... it's as simple as that, but quite unfair.
ThePurpleAlien each attempt also counts. The score reads on the fact that Akiyo has a top on one attempt where Stasa has a top on three attempts. If the scores were tied with one top and one attempt, the bonuses would be factored into the score where Stasa would have outranked Akiyo.
There is a bigger problem, as I see it. Attempts don't count unless a bonus or top is counted.
Therefore, there is a point at which a climber should stop trying to get even a bonus, because it might count as 15 attempts. Failing to get the bonus at all does not count against, at all. It just disappears. But if you get it at attempt 15, that will count against you.
There should be a 3rd category, which is number of attempts in total. We saw that at Munich. Lots of climbers would have had their score changed on M2 if they had stuck the bonus because their were huge numbers of goes at that problem. But no attempts were counted against anyone other than Jan Hojer who was the only one to get the bonus or the top.
iDominic42 I don't see that as a problem. It becomes a mental game in the sense that it's a matter of strategy and knowing your capability. Do you press on to top even though you've attempted 7 times? Or do you save your strength for the next climb?
@iDominic42 No, the extra attempts don't count against you, because getting the top or bonus takes priority. Someone with 2 tops in 999 attempts wins over someone with 1 top in 1 attempt. Similarly, if you haven't gotten the bonus yet, there is no reason not to keep trying. It will only count against your bonus attempts, not your top attempts. The only reason not to keep attempting is that you will get tired.
I don't understand, why is Akiyo 3rd and Stasa Gejo 4th? Gejo had an extra bonus
I wonder if Akiyo NOGUCHI could have creaped her foot up on that hold after the bonus at 1:54:25 instead of jumping.
This is the first time I've seen a World Cup, but did the route setters just kinda fail or is it normal that so many climbers get stuck in the starting move(s) on many of the routes?
Edit: Men's 2 was completely unfair of course
It's not normal. The route setting on this, from start to finish, is horrendous.
I'm happy for Taisei!
Too bad Ashima wasn't in this one, always fun to see the weird ashima beta on those hard problems
I don't think she's competing in IFSC women's bouldering - she did the IFSC youth circuit in 2015-16, but not adult.
Amazing action!
The camera work kind of sucks... When from the soart you can only see a part of the head and not at least the target grab... And it is not as if they could not have taken the time to check this :/
Why the hell isn't it 4+ anymore! If you're in the finals of a world championship you should be able to finish your attempt! IFSC come on bros...
na way more existing this way
Arena rentals are by the hour, gotta keep costs down hahah
Oh my god, Jan completely destroyed M2 😭 such unbelievable power
Itˋs bad directing if we go through 2 climbers without seeing the boulder from behind. Whatˋs the point of these side angles? We can‘t see and compare technique, it´s confusing.
I'll happily take up the debate the commentator elicits here - ua-cam.com/video/b2MphXypjD4/v-deo.html\?t\=11871. Jan him self points out he had height advantage on M2 here - ua-cam.com/video/b2MphXypjD4/v-deo.html\?t\=12045. But Jan also says he doesn't complain about high feet or cramped boulder problems. Having watched most of the bouldering WC for the last three years and being a tall climber myself I can say unequivocally that taller climbers get a raw deal more often than not. I think it's actually gotten worse this year as the dominance of the Japanese and the departure of other large bodies like Sarafutdinov has lead to even tougher sets for taller climbers. What really rubbed me the wrong way was that I don't recall a single time in a final in last three years that it was insinuated that a short climber won due to favorable "shortie" sets.
triggered
TL,DR: Jan is great but he totally lanked it.
They are called "agile"
Being slightly taller than average seems to be the optimal size to be able to do all kinds of climbs. Look at Adam Ondra.
how come the European champions didn't have a podium presentation?
you should get rid of that IFSC animation every time when replaying something.. it‘s really annoying..
They should have put this in the olympics
Grassy Tiger it’s going into 2020! Albeit in a silly format (everyone has to do bouldering, lead and garbage speed climbing).
i don't much like the camera shots on this one. i prefer seeing the whole wall head-on so i can see what the climber is trying to set up for. amazing athletes though -- 2020 olympics here we go!!
i think i love Stasa
1:30:08 I heard "One minute left fuck you" XD
Thank you that made my day
That 3rd problem seems unfairly punishing.
That dip into lead must have done Jan some good
Alex Puccio dit come off the ground 2 time on W3, but neither were legitimate starts
brushers should brush more thoroughly
Who were the commentators for this footage?
will there be any more competitions in the near (the rest of this year maybe) future?
This was the last bouldering event of the year, but there are many more competitions coming up.
You can find them all here: www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?year=2017&filter=world_cups
ah thanks a lot buddy! =)
1:00:40 That moment when climbers look more graceful than ballerinas xD
yeah that was amazing. The reflex to stick that one, really fantastic.
credit to the route setters also, .. a route that's obviously really hard, but is doable.
Jan Hojer at 2:02:20 2:23:20 2:46 3:07
1.20.20 what song is that in the background
ridiculous routes, also favors tall climbers. route 3 was inexcusably bad. if the climbers cant even get started its just wrong. also makes for a frustrating watch.
feel sorry for the women.
The DJ putting on Gangnam Style when Jongwon Chon comes out for boulder 2 is cringeworthy
Those two DJs were Japanese. It was just some banter.
i thought the music played there was obnoxious... :x
What is that green garbage?
That's a nasty 1080i.
Феноменални!
what is this stripey blur going on? it made it impossible to watch
looks like route setters changes some finals boulders after they figured out Jan is in finals. His main advantage is his height and second boulder was set impossible for other 5 climbers
Yeah if that would be on purpose it would be quite a scandal
Wow, Shauna made that first problem look easy
Did alex puccio sell her muscles?
Do you even check the material after rendering and before uploading...?
As a shorter person, men's 2 really triggered me. All the times I fell on my butt, and my tall friends are just like... just reach for it duh lol
Is there any possibility to have a better quality? Thanks
Thumbs up IFSC!
youtube takes its time to process the video. just wait and you will be able to see it in HD
1080p not good enough?
it's not the resolution, it's the crappy interlacing and compression.
hyau23 this looks more like 1080i
Looks terrible on a big screen
hahaha they played Gangnam Style while Jongwon Chon was climbing, and I think I heard the MC say "Jongwon Style" :D
w3 - a setting gimmick taken too far
2:11:28 What is it with all the stupid camera angles?
This is some terrible route setting for the women's... I feel bad for the climbers. I would imagine comps like this are what make people quit competing for good.
is this re uploaded?
Yes, this is from the stream to the Olympic website. The original UA-cam Stream had a couple of sections which had dropped entirely, and a number of other sections with stuttering audio.
Really IFSC? You rendered interlaced video footage to progressive? In 2017? It looks horrible! And the worst thing is that the stream wasn't interlaced. Someone must've fucked up and interlaced it all in post processing.
Look guys.. i don't wanna be uncessarily critial or an asshat. But you have such a great competition. Great athletes. The whole comp was a lot of fun to watch (was there live). Amazing footage. And then you flush it down the toilet by making it almost unwatchable.. it's just a shame. Please check the stuff before you upload it. Have someone responsible for quality control. Doesn't take much time!
It's really hard to sell competitive climbing as a serious, established sport to friends and family when everytime they wanna watch a stream or a replay it looks like it's done by an amateur with choped up video, interlaced footage, missing or broken audio.. You're short-selling your own product with bad presentation.
than pay for it. most of the people that handle this kind of things are volunteers.
The stream cut out at many parts - probably why they needed to interlace video from backup cameras, etc.
I thought I was the only one bothered by the severe interlacing and quality drops. The low bitrate I can sort of handle, but the interlacing was really horrible.
What other professional sport can you watch live-streamed on UA-cam at absolutely no cost? Every year the production values get better, the glitches and streaming issues get fewer, and yet the price stays exactly the same.
Stop complaining and just enjoy the competition, it's not that bad
I’m new to bouldering. I absolutely love it!!! However these competitions don’t seem to resemble bouldering that much. Feels a bit more like a cross between bouldering and parkour
You need me to do 4 boulder routes??
I'm gonna need ya to grab me about 13 bags of chalk.
The fact that they have advertisements for the sponsors on the wall while they are climbing is beyond me. Distracting and stupid decision by the venue
Why didn’t Stasa get 3. When she had a Zone more than Akiye 1:55:36
The rules have changed since, numbers of attempts to top is what counts here.
Start of problems was so hard and all of climber have problem ....i think its not amazing for us
song at 1:20:25?
Apologies for any industrial language lmfao
This footage is awful. Plus you really can't get a feel of the problems are when the camera is always zoomed in.
29:50 even a blind man can tell a mile away she wasn’t gonna make that!
I fucking love Alex Megos
1:21:59 omg
dude Janja is absolutely RIDICULOUS!! @A@
Im new to this, but basically height wins? That hojer fellow didnt seem to do anything extraordinary, just reached every single hold statically with his reach.
Tall guys have benefits on reachy problems of course, but at the same time they are more heavy. Depending on problems, some of them can be beneficial if you are taller, but some problems can be very compressed and would be easier for short people. Also, if they problem is heavy, or the grips are very small (crimpy), then it is easier for a light person to hang on than a tall person. So it is not really absolute.
The caster is just salty because he is short. If height is a benefit or not depends on the particular problem. Obviously, being tall isn't a serious advantage, because there are no NBA-height professional climbers. Average height of climbers is probably equal to or lower than national averages.