I get everything at a wholesale pool warehouse called Superior Pool Products. They only sell to pool service companies. But it is easy to get an account. All you need is a business license and a fictitious business names (but I think the business lic is enough). Everything I get is usually stocked at your local Mom & Pop pool store. Leslie's has their own products.
I am not in front of the unit now, but if I remember correctly, if you turn on the pump, unplug the salt cell and then plug it back in to the panel (It just pulls out of the panel like a regular wall plug) it will then try to activate. If all goes well you will NOT see this message: "Salt Cell No Power" or "Salt Cell High AMP." That means the board has an issue still. It will still display the salt level 2000 ppm for example and the AMPs even if the cell is not working. Hope that helps.
Maybe. They are pretty durable. The cell plates are actually made out of Platinum if I remember correctly. That is why they cost so much. I think it is over $1,500 an once for that metal. The only way to tell is with time. The cell light will turn red if the cell life is over. Lets keep our fingers crossed...
Hey Poll Man Dave, got a question about my replacement T Cell 15 salt cell in my Aqua Rite system. Replaced the cell after 10 years and cannot get the cell to generate any Chlorine. Called Hayward and everything is calibrated right. Pool chemistry is all ok as I had Leslie's analyze a sample today. Been raining here a lot in Southern Arizona. Have had it on 100% for three days and nothing. Help!
I agree. I am not even sure how those cells conduct electricity now that you mention it. They also tend not to get massive amounts of calcium in the fins like the other brand, but any other color but white would have been smarter.
Great video. Would a dirty cell cause the instant salt reading to say 0? When I turn switch to off and back to auto again, it reads salt level but eventually goes back to zero while generating light remains on.
Question for you. I'm getting high/arms fail. One year old salt generator. Cleaned. Amps about 8.2. Thought the limit was 10. Hayward gold line 2006 By the way I used you other video to acid clean my pool. Your videos are very informative
Looks like your Okay then. You would get an error message if the cell wasn't working. Just keep an eye on the chlorine level just to make sure you are in the clear. If it zeros out then there still may be an issue.
Hi buddy, I just purchased a new home which has salt water system in. The pool guy that comes said he's been adding chlorine and acid but he doesnt' need to since its salt water pool. I noticed that "Inspect Fuel Cell" light is on on the Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator. Is there a way to check what its wrong? Looks like that generator is working as I see a green light. Any way to know the normal ranges for all the values in there. It would hurt to spend $$$ so trying to see if its just a minor fix. I seen some videos but I am totally new to pools so any help would be greatly appreciated. I will be using links from your site to buy pool supplies.
jassa singh Could be the cell is getting dirty - calcium build-up. Your pool guy can clean it for you. If the "Inspect cell" light is on then the unit will not be producing chlorine. He should clean the cell on his next visit. As far as checking if everything is working - once the cell is cleaned the "inspect cell" light should turn off and a salt reading should be displayed. Have your pool guy check the water with a salinity tester to see if the numbers match. For instance if the read out say "3200" the independent salt tester should also read the same "3200." If not your system needs some work. Hopefully everything will be working fine after the cell is cleaned.
You mean a standard salt cell power center? I think the cost factor is not feasible. You might as well invest in a new board. They are priced about the same.
i used straight acid one time, to clean an intellachlor cell, do you think i could have messed it up with just the one time?, i like your videos by the way, some have been a big help, thank you.
No, the chlorine will dissipate as long as you stop adding it. If you are using tablets simply stop adding them. The salt generator will then take over.
We had the same problem, it ended up being the flow switch. I got mine at Amazon. it is called a flow switch assembly with tee. My husband is installing it right now. good luck.
@@SPL another question is my pool has the same system. The chlorine is around 8ppm and we tried to turn the knob to lower the output level and the chlorine is staying at 8ppm. We don’t add liquid chlorine or tablet. Do you know what could be the cause?
At that point you need a new board. The new board comes with a one year warranty... Try fixing it again. Maybe have an electrician friend look at it before chucking it.
I get everything at a wholesale pool warehouse called Superior Pool Products. They only sell to pool service companies. But it is easy to get an account. All you need is a business license and a fictitious business names (but I think the business lic is enough). Everything I get is usually stocked at your local Mom & Pop pool store. Leslie's has their own products.
I am not in front of the unit now, but if I remember correctly, if you turn on the pump, unplug the salt cell and then plug it back in to the panel (It just pulls out of the panel like a regular wall plug) it will then try to activate. If all goes well you will NOT see this message: "Salt Cell No Power" or "Salt Cell High AMP." That means the board has an issue still. It will still display the salt level 2000 ppm for example and the AMPs even if the cell is not working. Hope that helps.
Maybe. They are pretty durable. The cell plates are actually made out of Platinum if I remember correctly. That is why they cost so much. I think it is over $1,500 an once for that metal. The only way to tell is with time. The cell light will turn red if the cell life is over. Lets keep our fingers crossed...
All your poll videos are awesome! Very helpful and specific... Quick question, where do you get your all you chemicals?
Hey Poll Man Dave, got a question about my replacement T Cell 15 salt cell in my Aqua Rite system.
Replaced the cell after 10 years and cannot get the cell to generate any Chlorine. Called Hayward and everything is calibrated right. Pool chemistry is all ok as I had Leslie's analyze a sample today. Been raining here a lot in Southern Arizona.
Have had it on 100% for three days and nothing.
Help!
I agree. I am not even sure how those cells conduct electricity now that you mention it. They also tend not to get massive amounts of calcium in the fins like the other brand, but any other color but white would have been smarter.
Thanks for the helpful video. What acid did you use in the bucket? Can I get it at a local Lowes or Home Depot? Thanks!
Muriatic Acid - they sell it there.
Great video. Would a dirty cell cause the instant salt reading to say 0? When I turn switch to off and back to auto again, it reads salt level but eventually goes back to zero while generating light remains on.
It might, or the cell could be dying.
It should. Sometimes the union is on too tight. Use a big wrench and try unscrew it that way.
Question for you. I'm getting high/arms fail. One year old salt generator. Cleaned. Amps about 8.2. Thought the limit was 10. Hayward gold line 2006 By the way I used you other video to acid clean my pool. Your videos are very informative
Anthony Graham Not sure.. Never had that error before.
Looks like your Okay then. You would get an error message if the cell wasn't working. Just keep an eye on the chlorine level just to make sure you are in the clear. If it zeros out then there still may be an issue.
Hi buddy, I just purchased a new home which has salt water system in. The pool guy that comes said he's been adding chlorine and acid but he doesnt' need to since its salt water pool. I noticed that "Inspect Fuel Cell" light is on on the Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator. Is there a way to check what its wrong? Looks like that generator is working as I see a green light. Any way to know the normal ranges for all the values in there. It would hurt to spend $$$ so trying to see if its just a minor fix. I seen some videos but I am totally new to pools so any help would be greatly appreciated. I will be using links from your site to buy pool supplies.
jassa singh Could be the cell is getting dirty - calcium build-up. Your pool guy can clean it for you. If the "Inspect cell" light is on then the unit will not be producing chlorine. He should clean the cell on his next visit.
As far as checking if everything is working - once the cell is cleaned the "inspect cell" light should turn off and a salt reading should be displayed. Have your pool guy check the water with a salinity tester to see if the numbers match. For instance if the read out say "3200" the independent salt tester should also read the same "3200." If not your system needs some work. Hopefully everything will be working fine after the cell is cleaned.
You mean a standard salt cell power center? I think the cost factor is not feasible. You might as well invest in a new board. They are priced about the same.
When converting a chlorine pool to salt pool, do I have to do anything with chlorine in the pool before adding salt?
i used straight acid one time, to clean an intellachlor cell, do you think i could have messed it up with just the one time?,
i like your videos by the way, some have been a big help, thank you.
hey , behind my turbo cell there's another pipe that has a little black thing with a grey wire sticking out ?? what is that called ?
No, the chlorine will dissipate as long as you stop adding it. If you are using tablets simply stop adding them. The salt generator will then take over.
does it screw off the same way??on both sides ??
My cell is not reading the right salt levels after cleaning cell and recalibration. What should I check next?
Any error codes?
We had the same problem, it ended up being the flow switch. I got mine at Amazon. it is called a flow switch assembly with tee. My husband is installing it right now. good luck.
You don’t want to drop the cell directly into a bucket of acid. It can shorten the cell life and plastic.
Yes, always an acid and water mix.
@@SPL another question is my pool has the same system. The chlorine is around 8ppm and we tried to turn the knob to lower the output level and the chlorine is staying at 8ppm. We don’t add liquid chlorine or tablet. Do you know what could be the cause?
Thanks! Sorry for the grammar errors.
At that point you need a new board. The new board comes with a one year warranty...
Try fixing it again. Maybe have an electrician friend look at it before chucking it.