How to Clamp That? Wood Clamping Lesson on a Table Made in Cowansville, Quebec, Canada
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- Опубліковано 5 бер 2021
- Learning how to clamp wood properly is an important skill in furniture repair. But how do you clamp something like this table support that isn't square. The answer is "vector clamping". Watch and learn how to clamp this curved piece to repair it and make it one solid piece.
This table was built by Vilas Canada, a woodworking company in Cowansville, Quebec, Canada. This business ran from the late 1800's to 1995. The table isn't an antique, but it is a quality built piece of furniture made from solid maple.
The first thing I check for is if I can get clamps on the broken table top support without having to take it apart. The table apron was too close to the table support, so I needed to detach the table top from the base so I could remove the table top support.
With the table support free from the table, I could assess the broken part. It looked like it was simply a failed glue joint, likely from the lack of glue. I cleaned off the mating parts carefully to remove any potential residue that would prevent the new glue from absorbing into the wood as it dries.
Before applying glue, I "dry fit" the parts together and clamp them up. With some testing, I found that it would not be possible to glue this up with just clamps. What I needed to do is make a caul and use the principal of "vector clamping". This refers to clamping pressure that is perpendicular (90 degrees) from the glue joint. To create a caul, I simply traced the part on to a piece of plywood to cut out on the bandsaw. I made sure I traced around the top so the caul wouldn't slide down the curve when clamping pressure was applied.
With the clamping caul cut out, I did another test clamp. The caul worked well and the clamp held the pieces snugly in place. This is why vector clamping is an important skill to learn for furniture repair. I applied the glue with an artist brush on both surfaces of the glue joint to ensure there was full glue coverage. I then clamped it up and let the glue dry.
I did a minor touch up to the finish at the bottom of the broken table top support with a stain marker. No one would see this because it's under the table, but I wanted to make sure it was a quality repair. I reassembled the table top support and waxed up the metal pins to stop the squeaking. I reattached the table top to finish the repair.
I hope you found this video useful to understand the power of vector clamping. It's not difficult once you understand the concept and have done it a few times. Thanks for watching Fixing Furniture!
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This video is hosted by Scott Bennett, Owner of Wooden It Be Nice - Furniture Repair in Brooklin, Ontario, Canada. WoodenItBeNice.ca
#Repair #Clamp - Навчання та стиль
I tried to guess the clamping solution. I would have had an epic failure!
Without fail I learn something on every single one of your videos. I refer back to your older videos repeatedly each time I work on a piece. It's my reference book.
Thanks for the encouraging feedback Sean. My goal is to build a supportive community for furniture repair work, and your comment demonstrates that is starting to come to life. Thanks for that! Scott
Thank you for the informative information.
When putting screws back, first always turn the screw by hand counterclockwise until the screw finds or “falls” into its old thread thereby avoiding cutting a new thread and enlarging the pilot hole
I recommend searching: "rubbed glue joint" Very easy and straightforward way to deal with many (not all!) hard to clamp situations. This particular repair would have been a snap with a rubbed joint.
I love watching your videos. Your smooth delivery and great explanations make them a joy to view and very educational. I don't really repair furniture, but I do like building some...
Such calm clear explanations. This really is a wonderful channel.
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching. Scott
Better then getting yelled at... my fav...
Well done Scott. Thinking out loud works well for me.
Excellent!
Thank you for sharing this project. Who knew that something as a call was the solution to the problem. I enjoy your videos as I learn something new each time. Please keep them coming. You approach each project and are not afraid to take something apart to solve the problem. Your approach is very basic.
Thanks for sharing your encouraging comments Eddie! Scott
I'm lazy, so I would have put a piece between the broken part, and the vertical support board.
That way, I could use a clamp on the vertical part, and the broken part. In order to get the clamp to stick on the rounded, broken support, I would have used the 'masking tape/ CA glue' trick.
Of course, I'm not a pro. That's why I love watching this channel.
Thanks for sharing your suggestion. Glad to hear you're enjoying our videos. Thanks. Scott
Templates, jigs and a caul in this instance are my heroes. I have spent more time creating those to assist with a project than I do on the project at times. Thanks for the sound advice. Hope you have a great new year.
Thanks for sharing that Terry. Happy New Year too! Scott
Thanks for another great video!
Great tips, I love to fix things
That's great to hear you like to fix things. I find it rewarding too. Thanks for being a subscriber! Scott
Tnx for sharing your valuable knowledge and experience wit us
More excellent techniques. I like that you leave the real life issues in as it helps us learn too. Can’t wait for your next video.
Thanks so much Jeanine! Scott
I have been watching several of your videos and have become addicted!
Your explanation is top-notch.
By the way I'm an American living in Malaysia and even know it is a very 'tree-filled' country, the choices of wood you have here are horrible.
If I could make a small suggestion :
Veery often you will say : OK, we are now we will remove the clamps and the glue is dry...
If you could say : It has been 20 hours or 8 hours - to give us a time frame - as to how long you're doing this, that would be nice. Thank you very much for the wonderful content.
Another quality video!!!
Appreciate that. Thank you! Scott
Great job, Scott! Good to see you back
Thanks Clark! Cheers
The design of that table looks as though they started to make a sawhorse and changed their minds! 😀
I love your content, I thought too much clamping pressure was a bad thing
Like the clamp method.
Here's a list of vector clamping videos if you'd like to see more ua-cam.com/play/PLOgTcCDjpIJVNoA_T51wzhz7PTzs7ObK0.html
Looking forward to the touch up marker video!
I'm glad you're interested in it. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
This was awesome
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it! Scott
Great video. The Vector clamping is brilliant. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you.
You're welcome! Cheers. Scott
I would never have thought of this caul method. Brilliant
Nice video. A quick domino or dowel could have helped with the alignment and sliding, but certainly not necessary for strength.
I like your idea. Can you explain how you would drill the hole in the broken-off piece so the holes would align? Thank you.
@@davec3689 place down a piece of tape, draw a straight line where you want to make either your plunge or hole for dowel.
@@batmansdad3195 yup - this is exactly how it's done
Yes, that would work if you have accurate equipment to do that. Thanks for sharing that tip with our furniture repair community Nyla! Scott
To David C . Drill a hole in the smoothest piece 1/4 inch , Woodcraft sells CLESCO dowel and tenon centers = Woodcraft Parkersburg wv.26102 ( 304 485 4050) the little nipples have a point on them so when you put the two pieces of wood together it makes a mark an you drill it the dowel fits just fine , or put the dowel in the 1/4"hole you drilled an the little cap will go over the dowel an mark the joining piece
Just finished repairing an everyday use oak chair for my mom using your technique. Hammering apart the loose joints, scraping the old glue off, drilling out broken off dowels, glued, new dowels and clamped it all up. Came out solid.
Brilliant
Vector clamping technique, thanks!
You're welcome. Here's a play list with 3 other videos showing Vector Clamping if you're interested ua-cam.com/play/PLOgTcCDjpIJVNoA_T51wzhz7PTzs7ObK0.html
Beautifully explained. 👍🏻😁🇦🇺
I just clamped a new piece of wood to a chair leg that has a 4” long chip out of it. I used coarse twine and wrapped it.
It can be difficult to get string/rope to provide enough clamping pressure. Next time I suggest using rubber tubing, which provides continuous pressure when wrapped around something. Here's a link as an example amzn.to/30k26QP
Brillant idea I will definitely use this technique. On my restoration projects.
This channel is awesome! Great job!
Love your channel and all the great tips. I also hum that theme music all day after hearing it.
Thanks for the encouraging feedback. I'm glad that theme music is catchy! Scott
Always such a nice job! I really enjoy your videos.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Thanks for your support! Scott
Learning a lot!
That's great to hear Carol. My purpose is teaching so that means a lot to me. Scott
Thanks for sharing
You're welcome. Thanks for watching. Scott
2 years ago I found a dresser set on Kijiji for $80. Called the guy went and made the purchase, he said back in the mid 80's he paid $2500 for it new. When I was wiping it all down from the travel dust I seen it was a set made by Gibbard.
Wow, you got a great deal then! Nice!
WOW, what a great video. I learn something from all your videos - Thank you for sharing your knowledge :-)
You're welcome. Thank you for the supportive feedback. I find that encouraging. Scott
I also operate a furniture repair shop in Ormond Beach, Florida. Chairs are the bread and butter of my business. Chairs are notoriously difficult to clamp because of few square angles to work with. Each project seems to have its own unique solution. I also get anal in respect to putting them back together exactly as they were, which is very rare. You know exactly what I'm talking about! Here's a quick tip for you - use the markers on the edges to be joined before glue up. And just say no to gorilla glue! Ken
The material slid because the clamping force was not perpendicular to the repair joint. Looking at the bar where it crosses the joint, you can see this. It is interesting how our eyes give priority to the places where the clamping pads are rather than the bar crosses the joint.
Your vids are like a trade school course by a mellow, super competent teacher. Nice repair. If I had done this repair I wouldn't have thought of using that sheet of acetate. I would have raised the work up off of the bench to prevent sticking. I've done that in the past. Question. How did you clean up what little squeeze out that may occured? If it's a water based glue I would have just used a damp rag, then dried it with a dry rag. Anyway, good work, as usual.👍
Wouldn't it be a good idea to put a couple of dowels in the the middle to prevent slide when clamping and add extra strength?
“Gupped Up”, is that a technical term? 😜
It's been awhile
A few weeks, yes. I publish videos on 2 channels so I balance between each. Im presenting at the Virtual Wood Show this weekend too... a busy few days, but I enjoy it! Scott
Great video that why you shold put this on video and sell them
I still don't know why I find your videos extremely soothing in addition to being informative. Keep up the good work!
A question though: Why did you glue both of the surfaces? It is wood glue, so gluing just one side would be enough, I assume?
Thanks for the supportive feedback. To answer your question about applying glue to both sides, this is a best practice to ensure proper glue coverage. For example if the glue is applied thin in spots on just one side, there is the risk that the wood absorbs too much of the glue and it wouldn't bond properly. By applying glue to both surfaces that risk is eliminated as both sides have a chance to absorb some glue before the parts are assembled. I hope that helps. Scott
I've had success with using a plywood backer and screwing blocks to the plywood where the curves are to hold the piece in place while the clamps do the work. Hard to explain in a comment but hopefully that gives you an idea of the technique. Both ways work great, it just depends on what you have on hand. I don't have a bandsaw so making those cuts for me is very difficult.
I think I understand what you're describing. It's adding material instead of cutting it away. Sounds like it works! Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Hey that is a good tip for me, another no bandsaw shop guy. Thanks
I would have reached for a dab of grease-- you chose wax however. Is it because wax is less likely to run and/or stain?
Wax won't penetrate in wood like grease will, so it will continue to lubricate the parts for a long time. I would only use grease as a lubricant between metal parts. I hope that helps. Scott
I have a solution: Two strips of wood for each side. Use long screws to draw the strips together. Clamp the strips of wood directly to the flat side of the board. Works like a charm. Vector clamping is cool, though.
I don't understand. would you please explain it more detailed.
Would it be possible to use something like an Ace bandage wrapped tightly around the two pieces?
I thinks I love Robertson screws, what do you think? I dislike it when I strip out a Phillips head.
Yes, Robertson screws are the best invention. Nothing works better. Scott
You say you use an artist brush. Do you clean them after or just chuck them in the bin every time?
If you do clean them how?
I clean them with soap and water. If you use PVA or hide glue and the glue dries on the brush by accident, it can be soaked in warm water and worked loose to wash it out. One brush will last for years so there's very little waste. I hope that helps. Scott
@@FixingFurniture Thank you and thanks for the response.
Acho que deveria ter colocado pinos na emenda, vai quebrar novamente
after you use your artist brush to spread the glue, do you throw it away? or do you know a good way to clean them so they can be reused?
I clean them with soap and water. If you use PVA or hide glue and the glue dries on the brush by accident, it can be soaked in warm water and worked loose to wash it out. One brush will last for years so there's very little waste. I hope that helps. Scott
@@FixingFurniture Thanks for the reply! That definitely helps, thank you.
Harbor freight has shorter brushes (8”) that are about 30 for $2.99
I use them daily and just toss them after each chair or project. Easy peasy!
Why don't you use dowels?
Hi Scott was the failed piece a factory defect? The break line was just too straight!!!
Yes, it was a manufacturing defect. Likely not enough glue applied so the joint was what's referred to as "glue starved". Cheers. Scott
Rule for glue. If it does not ooze,you lose!
Yeah, good one! Thanks for the chuckle this morning. Scott
The way to solve this is with 2 wooden plugs, like it should have been done originally….
I do not understand this. This is a video about clamping yet you don't use any clamps.? 'Quick-grips' © aren't clamps, and it is impossible for the quick-grips to create a high enough pressure to get a good glue joint. You need to use REAL clamps and you need to tighten them as hard as you possible as you can. It is the pressure, not the glue, that makes the bond. p.s. I am a skilled cabinet-maker and this is basic material in ANY school.