Replacing Broken Furniture Parts on a Glider Rocker - Level 3 Woodworking Repair /
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2024
- Learn how to replace broken furniture parts for furniture restoration in this Level 3 woodworking repair. See how to match the wood, shape, function, and stain to repair furniture.
The first step is to determine which parts are broken. By inspecting this glider rocker, I was able to figure out there were three parts that needed to be made to replace the broken parts.
The next step is choosing the right wood to make the replacement parts with. This is difficult until you get experience working with different types of wood. I show you how to compare colour, density, and grain patterns to find the best match for your repair. Using the same type of wood is the first step in matching the color of the new parts to the broken furniture parts.
Once you've chosen the wood to use, it's time to cut out the new parts. I use a miter saw and a table saw to cut and rip the parts to size. I then work on the detailing. The top of these parts needed a gentle curve, so that was easy to do on the disk sander. The longer part needed a rabbit cut into it, so I used a tenon jig on my table saw to cut that out.
I then drilled out the recessed pockets with a drill press and Forstner bits, which create flat bottomed holes. I use a fence and stop block on the drill press to make exact copies of the broken parts.
I sanded down all the parts and moved on to the finishing steps. I use water-based stains in a process I was taught by a professional finisher. I applied some stains to a test piece in several stages to figure out how to get a color match on the new parts. It takes a few steps followed my a coat of water-based polyurethane to see how the color turns out. Once I found the right formula, I stained and finished the new parts.
Reassembling the glider rocker was a bit tricky but once I figured out the right sequence of steps, I pre-drilled some holes for screws and installed the bearings. Then I assembled the parts with the washers and nuts before adding the last cross support.
The end result is a working glider rocker that looks as if it's never been repaired.
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Topics in this video:
00:00 Replacing Broken Furniture Parts on a Glider Rocker - a Level 3 Woodworking Repair
01:22 Determine the furniture parts to replace
02:53 How to match wood for the broken parts
09:27 Cutting new furniture parts to size
10:17 How to shape furniture parts
10:53 How to cutting joinery (lap joint)
12:14 How to drill pockets for bearings and bolts
16:20 How to match stain for replacement furniture parts
21:54 How to prevent end grain from absorbing too much stain
23:18 Applying water-based stain
26:06 Applying water-based polyurethane
27:51 Comparing the new replacement parts with the broken furniture parts
28:07 How to reassemble the glider rocker
31:32 Repaired glider rocker, working again
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This video is hosted by Scott Bennett, Owner of Wooden It Be Nice - Furniture Repair in Brooklin, Ontario, Canada. WoodenItBeNice.ca
#FurnitureRestoration #GliderRocker #WoodStain - Навчання та стиль
My thought, given the curl figure along the side and flat is that the wood is actually maple. It's also typical of the type of split and grain pattern in the break. Of course, there are different types of maple, generally grouped into "soft maple" and "hard" (sugar) maple. And sap and heart wood will have a slightly different color.
For color matching, an alternative is to use aerosol toners. That is the most likely way these things are finished. They spray on a couple coats at the factory and it's done. There are literally dozens of different colors, but my 90% go to kit consists of varieties of "cherry" and "walnut" tones. Often I use several to tweak it in the right direction. Run tests on scrap if you need to. Then you can top coat with a clear to get the sheen you want. Guardsman is what I use most often, but Mohawk is sometimes easier to find. Light, medium, dark, and extra dark cherry and medium and dark walnut from Guardsman. Black Cherry (Guardsman) or Newport Ebonized Cherry (Mohawk) for a really dark color that is common nowadays. Guardsman re-named their line a few years ago to have light, medium, dark, and extra dark of cherry, walnut, oak, maple, mahogany, pecan, and pine. Mohawk names are a bit more cryptic. But these are just rough suggestions and this is common with most kinds of colorants in stains and toners. Just because you are using one species of wood doesn't mean the corresponding stain color is the right one for your job.
Since most of my jobs were on site, something that goes on and dries fast is an advantage.
Also, as I'm sure you know, black walnut gets lighter with UV exposure, cherry gets darker and redder.
Glad to see you're "Back in the saddle again."
Hi Keith. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience on several topics here. I will have to get some soft maple at my local lumber yard the next time I'm there to have on hand. The birch pieces were a slight bit heavier than the broken ones, leading me to think it was a softer wood.
As for the toners, I will have to check those out. I do some service calls and this would certainly open up more capabilities... another tool in the toolbox if you will. Thanks again! Scott
@@FixingFurniture Also if you look at the medulary ray structure pattern running perpendicular to the grain in the shot at 3:10 in the video, that is telltale of maple.
That is definitely soft maple (all the reasons you say, plus: a finger nail generally won't indent hard maple as meaningfully, hard maple generally seems to have more grain contrast, and hard maple is heavier and much stronger than soft). Also, maple takes color well, so can be matched easily. Generally prefer the alcohol based dyes, for your stated reasons.
maple was my first thought as well although I also considered ash or beech. I've worked quite a bit with maple but like you said there is so much variation in maple that it's sometimes hard to tell.
Also, looking closely at 4:39, the maple used for comparison was labeled elm. Or am I misreading done abbreviation?
color matching can become a labor of love, but so worth it in the end. not the same, but I knit a sweater with a yarn I loved the feel of but not the color, so I dyed it and absolutely ruined the yarn (but got the color I wanted!). I took the whole sweater to the yarn store to try to find matches to re-knit the sweater in the right colors with the right feel and squish.
That "a-ha!" moment of finding the match is so rewarding.
A great restoration wooden furniture!
Thank you Vera! Scott
Remarkable repair! You rock!
Looks better than the original.
😀
Just ordered me a few bottles of that acrylic stain. Man, that stuff isn't cheap. :)
Nice work, Scott.
Happy Canada Day 😎
Very good, learned something new!
Scott: the way you handled the staining of the wood was wonderful. Super job all away around! I bet your customer was very happy.
I’m so glad you’re back and working. Carol from California
Hi Carol form California. Nice to hear from you again. Glad you enjoyed the video. Scott
Missed you brother!!... thoroughly enjoy your videos and look forward to them
Thanks John. Glad to hear you're enjoying our videos. Scott
I loved watching the repair of this glider.
Glad you liked it Paula. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
I thought there was something missing. you were !Scott,!, and now I know the reason why. another great video. well done and thanks for being back and sharing!
Lol, glad to be back in the saddle. Cheers. Scott
12:43 Great idea to keep those stupid bits from ending up scattered all over the case. Cutting a few spacers this afternoon... Nice job on the chair.
Thanks for another great video. Other tools you might want to add to the kit would be colour isolators. These would normally be two pieces of grey card with a square or round hole in each around 20mm across. Put one card on the piece to be matched and the other on the fresh stained test. Try to get both pieces close to each other. The grey card stops any other colours distracting the eyes and makes it much easier to compare the two.
I enjoyed watching you match that color. It looks wonderful.
That’s some great information. Thanks for sharing. Happy Canada day 🇨🇦
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment Dave. Scott
Excellent
This is strong knowledge. Thanks for sharing this.
You're welcome. Thanks for being a subscriber to our channel! Cheers. Scott
Magnificent work. A true pro.
Thank you! Cheers!
thank you very much for dedicating time to show your wood working artistic knowledge to all of Us
You're welcome. Thanks for the encouraging comment. Scott
Good work with the staining process; very soothing video. thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Great to see another terrific video from you, as always!!!
Thanks you for your supportive comment! Scott
This channel is so chill and professional. I guess real masters of their craft supposed to be like this . 👍
Lol, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Well done, Scott, great work
Thank you Paul! I appreciate that
Loved this video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Love your work sir!
Another informative video. Terrific job on the colour match and finishing, it looks great.
I just found this and loved it! Great job matching that color and thank you for showing us the process.
Well explained as per usual. Great fix up too. 👍🏻🇦🇺😁
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
The sound quality on your video was just perfect. Lowering the recording level of the microphone made it just perfect! I was also impressed of your restoration work. ;-)
Thanks Olle, I appreciate that! Scott
A new video , thanks 👍
Hope you enjoyed it! Scott
Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome Marcelo. Cheers. Scott
Nicely done! I wonder who designed suc a complicated rocking chair…
Happy canada day to you scott. It will be 4th of july here in california.Great staining tips and great looking glider chair and new parts.
Thank you Dana, and happy Independence Day to you. Glad to hear you enjoyed the project. Cheers. Scott
Great to see you back, great video, would like more like this good detail, Stay Safe now !!!.
Thanks, will do! Scott
Interesting! Scott on next Wednesday I’m going to have a repair on exactly similar glider rocker
That's good timing. I hope the video helps you work through your repair. Cheers. Scott
Great job,thanks for sharing.
You're welcome. Thanks for your support! Scott
thanks
Thank you. I've enjoyed all of your videos. One thing with wood identification that is helpful is the smell. Birch has a distinctive smell when freshly cut. So does oak, walnut and cherry. Maple is fairly bland. My guess at the beginning of the video was that this was maple or birch. The smell would prove it one way or another. Kind Regards. Craig
Great tip Craig! I didn't think to use the sense of smell for identification. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Piękna robota!
Zdrowia życzę
Great video
Thank you for sharing that Robert. Glad you liked it. Scott
Good clear explanation of the techniques used Scott, thanks from the U.K. hope your coping OK with the temperatures and COVID.
Thanks Bryan. We're keeping well and I hope you are too. Scott
Great to see a new video, just a couple of days ago I checked out your channel listing as I thought I must have missed one of your videos.
Glad to be up and running after the stay-at-home order. I only got one video out on my Home Improvement Channel in the past few weeks. If you'd like a monthly list of our new videos, you can sign up for our newsletter at www.woodenitbenice.ca Thanks for your support Ron! Scott
Awesome job. Those water based stains are game changers. I thought the delay between videos was due to mourning the Maple Leafs losing 😬.
😂 That's funny. Thanks for the chuckle. Scott
Great result. Just had to repair four patio chairs with multiple breaks and a few missing parts. The advantage of having four is using good parts as a templates. These chairs are Australian Jarrah, but with age the old were dark. I had to do a similar trick with wiping on some dark stain and immediately wiping off, just to get the aged look. Finished with BLO, and then bees wax. Customer is very happy 😁
Great to hear your success story Peter! It sounds like you're skilled at repairing furniture. Do you run a business? Scott
@@FixingFurniture Thanks Scott, Not a business but quite frequent requests from friends, family and neighbours. I am a hobbiest cabinet maker
nice content, congratulations, good luck ☺️👍🏻
Thank you so much 👍 Thanks for being a subscriber! Scott
I notice that when you wiped the pieces with the tack rag you set them back down from where you picked them up, are you not potentially putting them back into a contaminated area. You do great work, I enjoy the tips and tricks.
Great job! As always, perfect.
A question. What do you use for cleaning the disc sand? Tks
Looks great. Thank you for continuing to share. I have a question concerning business practices. How do you set your prices or charge your customers? Do you give an estimate or a quote beforehand or charge time and materials? How do you track your labor?
I've noticed in a couple of your videos you use Saman stains. I think they have 35 colors, can your recommend 7-8 that a woodworker would generally need? Thanks. Nice match on the replace pieces.
👍
I was taught that a tack rag is not good to use for water based finishes.
I've heard that too. The tack rags I use haven't caused any issues so I wonder if there are differences in products. Scott
@@FixingFurniture I am a Furniture Medic and we were taught finishing using water based products by General Finishes (Tom Monohan). I always use just a damp cloth to clean sawdust after sanding. I enjoy your channel.
Hi, I'm new in this channel and I'm enjoying your passion and technique in furniture repair! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Now, forgive me for this pet peeve of mine: I wish people would find another way to describe the products used or the repairs... if the product you are using is water based, they cannot be called chemical free or without chemicals, because water is also a chemical, as it is composed of H2O (two hydrogen for each oxygen atoms - that's chemestry). Even those use the term "harsh chemicals" for other forms of solvents are not 100% correct, because even water can be quite harsh to the lungs, as it can kill a person by drawning, or it can burn the skin depending on the temperature. "Natural" is also not appropriate, as nothing that pertain to the elements contained in the universe can be "unnatural". I feel like keeping it to water-based, oil-based, plant-based, mineral based, alcohol-based and so on might be the appropriate way to describe the ingredients used in wood finishings, unless someone has a different way...
The car has whisker sensitivity. They don't like having to put their face into a bowl because it causes irritation to the whiskers.
Get flat plates and a running water fountain instead.
That's interesting. Thanks for sharing that Jay. I'll share that with my daughter. Thank you. Scott
Question scott in the video fixing glider rocker what all do you have in your finishing box
I have water-based stains, water-based polyurethane, wax, mineral oil, acrylic paint, brushes, etc. This is my non-flammable finishing kit. My flammable items are stored in a cabinet designed to store flammable finishes. Cheers.
По поперечным розовым рискам видно что оригинальная древесина - клен.
At 14:58, why not use your drill press?
How do you tell the difference between red and white oak? And happy Canada Day
I find looking at the end grain is the best. Google white oak tyloses and you can see how white oak pores are filled vs red oak.
What I look for is the medullary rays. They are much longer in white oak. Another way is take a piece about 5-8" long. If you put one end in a cup of water and blow on the other end, red oak will bubble under the water and white oak will not. This is one reason they use white and not red oak for barrels for wine and whisky. If you used red oak, the contents would all leak out the pores. They also smell a little different, but you need experience to distinguish.
@@chriswyoung1 thank you
@@byhammerandhand thank you
That's a cool test. Thank you for sharing your knowledge Keith! Scott
I want to use more water based stuff. I get tired of the nasty smells and difficult cleanup of the oil based stuff.
I like the Saman product. There's a link in the video description. It goes on well for small parts. I haven't tried it on large pieces so I don't know if it dries too quickly or not for large areas. Worth a try, especially if you don't have good ventilation in your work area. Cheers. Scott
Bullseye
Stay at home orders are ridiculous and draconian.
This guy is very talented, but his presentation is so boring. Takes forever to get to the point. Almost went to sleep while he was speaking.