Chair Repair with Epoxy Glue & Vector Clamping | Woodworking Furniture Restoration How To
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2024
- When is epoxy glue the right woodworking glue? In this chair repair, we show you an example of where epoxy glue is needed because regular wood glue won't work. Understanding this will give you another tool to put in your toolbox of knowledge.
Vector clamping is also an important part of this repair. Learning how to clamp projects properly will ensure alignment and tight joints.
Here are some of the tools used in this video
- Paint Scraper - amzn.to/2M76L4j
- Epoxy Glue - amzn.to/2EtyGFw
- Quick Grip Clamps - amzn.to/2YGH5wM
Note: purchases made using these links fund our video creation work
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This video is hosted by Scott Bennett, Owner of Wooden It Be Nice - Furniture Repair in Brooklin, Ontario, Canada. WoodenItBeNice.ca
#epoxyglue #vectorclamping #clamp - Навчання та стиль
Thank you. After 999 videos, you are the first to explain how to use the four types of glue, and why. Much appreciated.
Why not used longer set up time Expoxy glues their hole series of them some even metal as fillers
on another video, you used West System epoxy - amzn.to/2PUnOFR
when used 5 min vs West System Epoxy
You’re welcome. Glad to hear you found it helpful! Scott
I was given the job of reupholstering an antique rocker. When I pulled off the old fabric, I saw that every joint was loose, and the chair is now in pieces on my workbench. When I began to scrape off the old glue, I saw significant gaps in the joints. Thanks for explaining how to use epoxy for this! Also, it helped me to see that you could glue one section first, and the others later, as long as the pieces are dry-fitted for spacing. I'd been puzzling over just where to begin on re-assembly!
Scott, I really appreciate you making these videos on vector clamping. This knowledge is very helpful to me. I also appreciate you showing how to make the jigs to be able to clamp properly. Thank-you!
As someone who repairs both boats and joinery/furniture I think you’re underestimating the power of epoxy. We build entire boats from epoxy and the stresses and strains the adhesive resists vastly exceeds that put on furniture. There’s a variety of epoxy glues on the market, those intended to set in five minutes lack strength, but have speed as their ‘advantage’, others dry clear.. but similarly lack strength. I assure you that an epoxy engineered for strength will be more than strong enough for your application.
Thank you for this info. You have told all of the mistakes I've made and how to fix it.
You are the Bob Ross of furniture repair...
Well thank you for the high complement! Scott
Always great info
Glad you found it helpful. Scott
My sister in law has a rocking chair in pieces that is one of the only things she has from her father. It looks like every single joint was very loose and came apart in a move. It's been daunting and I was thinking epoxy would be the only way to fix this "heirloom" chair. Thanks for giving me the right direction to approach this so my repair doesn't make a future failed furniture repair video.
We're repairing a teakwood leg of a chair. The tenen and mortise was loose. This video helped us to use the right glue. Thanks. Will let you know how it goes. From Malaysia.
A great repair demonstration. Thanks
You're welcome. Cheers. Scott 🇨🇦
thank you, just what I needed to know
Glad I could help. Cheers. Scott
Wow thank you for this video! This is exactly what I needed to repair the dining room chairs handed down from my grandparents.
Glad I could help! Cheers. Scott
Good morning. Seeing this video for the 1st time and noticed you used a 2-part epoxy. Is this due to the short pot time of the fast dry epoxy or had you not discovered it yet?
Scarf joint and epoxy worked extremely well for my last chair repair. Customer was very happy. Thanks for what you do.
Another way to tighten up a tenon is to use a shaving from a hand plane, glue that to the tenon, clean it up after it sets, and then non-epoxy glue has a chance. I used to see the same chairs coming back again, so easy disassembly was important.
Thanks for sharing that tip! Cheers. Scott
Excellent video. I have a broken chair leg to repair and have doubts whether using carpenters' wood or epoxy resin. I will go with epoxy and a couple of dowels. Hope this solve my problem. Cheers!
Your videos are always very thorough, I can learn a lot. I had to glue back together a chair, where all four joints were badly damaged, pieces of tenon were broken. I had to clamp them the same time, in order to maintain the positions. I used belt clamp and parallell clamps combination. I used epoxy glue and mixed to it fine saw dust to fill better the voids.
Sounds like you did all the right things Steve! Congratulations on your completed project! Scott
well done great job
Thanks
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
I say this only because of the harmful vapors from using epoxy... I have always used shreds from my hand plane and regular glue white or yellow to wrap around the tenon and build it up to match the mortise / never had a problem getting a tight wood to wood glue up. Anyone with a breathing problem might want to consider this alternative method.
I agree that the vapours from epoxy are not good. While adding width to these tenons would have made them snug, there still wasn't any wood to to wood contact on the short sides of the tenons, hence loading up the joint with epoxy was the best strategy for these chairs without stretchers.
I recently invested in the West Systems epoxy and it doesn't have the odour of the small tubes. I don't think it's no-VOC, but it might be lower.
Cheers. Scott
My kitchen table and chairs are antique and not really worth anything, but fit perfectly where they are needed. It would be difficult to find a set that would replace them, plus, they look good. The entire set is really worn out from age and multiple repairs. I've been stumped for years about how to make repairs that would last. This morning I thought about JB Weld, or some type of epoxy because I knew wood glue would not hold up. I just watched your video. Wow! Great stuff! Your precise explanations sure solve my problems! I can't thank you enough and can't wait to get started and have a sturdy kitchen set again. I was always a metal guy who can't drive a nail into wood, so this video is great! A couple of questions, do you recommend any particular brand of epoxy, do you use a quick set or slow set epoxy, how many pound strength, and since I don't have clamps, is it OK to use rope or something else? Thanks! After all this while I can't wait to get started on this!
I have learnt so much watching your videos and have begun to fix furniture using your techniques. thanks for sharing your ideas
You're welcome. That's so rewarding for me to hear as my goal is to empower viewers with knowledge and encouragement to repair furniture. Thanks for sharing that Joshua! Scott
@@FixingFurniture I will share some of the furniture I've have repaired later
So happy that I just discovered this superb artisan and craftsman. Well presented videos and with no short cuts or quick fixes. I hope to get to his website now.
I do wonder if the vector clamping
Can be replaced by the wrap around belt method?
Good question Ray. A strap clamp around the chair will not apply pressure to the joints in the right direction. If this was a square chair with 90 degree corners, that may work. On this particular chair, a strap clamp wouldn't create enough force on the joints at the back of the chair. I hope that helps. Scott
I understand that you are just trying to show us time and place to use epoxy. But my question is: if it was an antique piece, would you still have used epoxy? I think I saw a Thomas Johnson video where he machined a piece of veneer to "beef up" the tenon, so he could get a tight fit of the joint and thereby avoid using epoxy. Is that a solution you would recommend too for an antique?
I didn't think to use epoxy for loose joints like that. I actually have used wood shims to make up the gap in a mortise. That seems to be a good alternative, but I'll keep epoxy in my back pocket as another choice
Thanks for sharing your experience in situations like this. I appreciate that. Scott
I can't understand why, after scraping back to the bare wood, he doesn't pack out the tenon cheeks - as you have suggested, with veneers to thicken them, before using wood glue to glue the joint together.
I recently had a stretcher bar implode when I drilled a new dowel hole after the old dowel rotted away. your advise to use epoxy glue paid off. thanks
Thanks for another excellent video. I am surprised you buy your epoxy in such small quantities. I buy the System Three quart kit and it will last six or eight months
I rarely use epoxy in my work. I use mostly Cabinetmaker's glue from Lee Valley Tools as I generally work with tight tolerances on joints. This chair was a surprise to me to see how loose the joinery was.
What type of work do you do where you're using a lot of epoxy? Scott
@@FixingFurniture I do furniture repair and refinishing. I specialise in onsite repairs so I can't wait for wood glue to cure. When I am in the shop I use wood and hide glue in addition to epoxy
Oh, I have a question for you then Don - I was doing an on-site repair this week where a bolt hole was stripped. I drilled out the hole wider and installed a dowel using epoxy, but I had to make a return trip because the epoxy needed 1 hour to cure. Is there a type of epoxy that is better for a job like that?
@@FixingFurniture I use System Three Quick Cure and you can usually remove the clamps after about 10-15 minutes
I am refurbishing a sailing dinghy I built 15 years ago. The epoxy used at that time is still holding well after about 500 hard fought races.
Marine epoxies (I use Norglass's Stay Bond) need to be allowed to penetrate, fill voids and cure for, typically 24 hours. They are durable, strong and relatively expensive compared with PVA, but far superior to 5 minute epoxies, except in cure time.
Great videos. Thank you.
How long do you wait to dry the epoxy
Just curious, in that rear tenon where it was half broke off and still inside, If i heard you correctly you used epoxy as per the others, but added wood glue to the broken part of the tenon where i assume a tight wood-wood fit between the broken pieces of tenon.
Question is, why not just keep using the epoxy the rest of the joint has ? Going on your explanation that epoxy is good for larger gaps , can i assume that it's not as good as wood glue for tight wood to wood gaps ?
Love the channel, thanks for sharing your wisdom. A mates dining table chairs all rock and wobble, so I'll have to go through this sooner or later ! Bonus, no brads :)
Great question Gary. There's nothing stronger than wood glue for a tight fitting joint between two pieces of wood. When it's done right, the glue joint is stronger than the wood fibers (I've got a video coming up that shows that as part of a repair). The epoxy is good where there are gaps, but it can't beat a properly glued joint with wood glue. I hope that helps. Scott
@@FixingFurniture Thanks Scott, very informative.
You removed bracket nails, secured loose joint with epoxy, but did not use bracket nails? Oversite? Pls explain why not used or not needed?
Did this chairs joints fail because of varnish on the wood ? It looks like they varnished parts of the wood before assembling the chair so the gel wouldn’t be on bare wood ?
It's a build up. I have watched quite a lot of your video that I pick at random based on what looks interesting. Every video has referenced the "how to remove brad nails" video, that I just haven't stumbled upon. I almost don't want to watch it now . . . Love your videos man. Any vids on working with veneer?
Awesome, thank you! I don't have any veneer videos, no. Maybe I should consider that. Cheers. Scott
Hi Scott. I am here again. I have some questions.
1. Is epoxy stronger than wood glue? If yes, why do not use it on all jobs? It is just a question of cost?
2. In case of junctions with gaps as the chair on this video, is it possible use epoxy inside the mortise and wood glue on the faces out of the mortise?
Thank you.
wood glue is already stronger than the wood, so in general, what do you expect to gain ? The rest of the object is still wood, and this is where it's going to break.
which you had shown the unclamping and how sturdy the chair was after using the epoxy
In High School, during 60's we used wax paper between clamp and wood. Not sure why, just did what you were told to do. Nice job in adding how you made wood tools to get a 90-degree clamp to change the pressure angle.
In dry-fit, we told to work out clamping before the glue.
When did you know, you were going to need a special tool to change the pressure angle. That is one I would have miss thanks again in point this out
I didn't realize it was so uncommon to have missing stretchers. I guess I've been buying the wrong chairs :)
They might look cool, but unfortunately they won't stand the test of time. Cheers. Scott
Hello. I'm all the way in South Africa how can I send you some pictures and ske for advice. Complete ameture here
good question what sponsor membership cost my project/month or is it straight Time
What kind of glue that are u using?
This is 5-minute epoxy. Does that answer your question? Scott
Sometimes I wet a paper towel, put a wadded chunk in the mortice and take another piece and wrap it around the tenon and allow it to swell the wood. (It also loosens the glue allowing an easy removal). When the wood dries - it doesn't take that long - the fit is very snug.
Thanks for sharing that tip, however its a temporary change. When the wood dries out, the joint will no longer be a tight fit. While the assembly might seem right, the joint won't last. I hope that's helpful. Scott
Ok. I wasn't sure.
Thanks!@@FixingFurniture
Nice job but what happens if it loosen up again? With Epoxy u won't be able to take it apart!
You're right. If this was a valuable antique, I wouldn't have used epoxy as it isn't a reversible glue. In this case, it's the only glue that would work on this chair, so if it breaks, it will mean replacing parts.
04:53 Here you state that regular wood glue is not appropriate because of missing clamping pressure, but at 05:58 you *are* clamping mortise and tenon together.
Epoxy-when space remains between joints during dry fit. Wood glue- when there is a nice tight dry fit. Always clamp. 😉 At least, that’s how I understand the demonstration.
@@elizabethmclaughlin2216 Thank you.
Hay epoxy and not poli?
Polyurethane glue has no strength when there's a void/gap between the wood. It foams up, but that doesn't offer any strength. Epoxy is the only adhesive that can hold when there's a gap. I hope that helps. Scott
@@FixingFurniture gracias