Again awesome video. On my 05 I was able to remove the pump without messing with the clutch. There’s just enough room to wiggle it out once you remove water Inlet/outlets.
Hey boss awesome video ! Thank you! One question , my whole reason for getting into this project is because bike was overheating super quick like idleing like no circulation and I flushed system soo couldn’t have been that… any ideas?
Sounds like thermostat might not be opening. I found that I would have to replace it periodically on all my yamahas...its about a 12 or 14 dollar part at partzilla.com. you will need to remove the fuel tank to replace. Feel free to email me at tomcatsurfs@gmail.com if you want me to send you a copy of the 04-06 r1 service manual.
I have an 05 R1 started to leak coolant from the oil pan hole not sure if I should replace the whole pump? Or what’s the seal I need to purchase and replace
Did you notice the tightness of the chain going from the clutch to the water pump? Mine seems a little loose after replacing the clutch and water pump, but I didn't check the looseness before I took it apart. So I have nothing to compare it to. What do you think? Thanks.
I would double chexk the upper chain pully on the shaft that the clutch is attached too. That upper pully has notches that if not lined up on shaft could cause the upper pully to spin freely and not turn the chain when the engine is running. Also, i remember a chain guide bracket somewhere between the upper pulley and the pump sprocket. I guess it matters what you mean when you say loose. Slightly loose could be ok as a slight amount of play is normal. Youdont want it to be tight. Alot of play could mean a stretched chain or a misaligned upper pulley. When i sold my bike a couple months ago it had 88000 miles on it and i never replaced that chain. You are welcome to video your chain tension and send me a link so i can look and give a better quess if you are good or not
I have 04 too, i heard that 04-06 are prone to in/ex valve dropping. What about generator rotor and magnet fall off problem, did you change it with upgraded one. Mine have close to 50000 km, so there is a lot of life left in her, i suppose. For some time i have a weird problem, engine starts normal when cold and hot (right after i shut the engine down), but if i shut the engine and leave it to cool down it cranks a little bit longer to start. It cranks and then after cca 4 seconds fuel light comes on and engine starts. Other then that engine run smooth and pulls strong. I think maybe its the valve clearance are too tight or some thing with fuel pressure, maybe fuel pressure relieve valve on TB. I think that the fuel pump is OK because there is no problems when i push the bike hard, there is no stalling or sputtering. What do you think.
I never had a valve problem on my 04. I sold it at 88k miles and still ran great. My stator\generator failed at over 80k miles. It started making a whining noise and over a couple weeks of daily riding it got louder and louder and finally came apart. I replaced it with the upgraded oem part. The battery should be replaced every 1 to 3 years. If it cranks poorly sometimes, i would put a new battery in it. If the fuel light com s on when it shouldn't that may indicate an issue with the fuel pump or fuel system. Keep in mind the fuel pump is a self contained unit that has an internal fuel tank level sensor and other parts. The pump can have a secondary part fail but still keep pumping fuel normally. If I were you, i would make sure you have a new battery in the bike as this is often the cause...it still may have 13 volts but the cranking amps can drop off after a year and then bike has starting issues under certain conditions. If its not your battery then i dont know. Make sure when you turn on key, before hitting started that you hear the fuel pump prime the system.
Hi. nice video. i've got your same bike and the same problem; coolant leaking out from that hole. i guess the water pump is the problem, but could you tell me which part of the pump is the problem in more detail? thanks for the video👍
Hello, I did not tear down the pump to determine which part failed in my particular issue. My best guess is that an internal seal on the pump has worn out and needs to be replaced. check procaliber.com schematic to see if they sell a rebuild kit for the pump.
Hello. I enjoyed the video. Very detailed. Only one thing I missed. What tool did you use to unscrew the 3 screws in the middle of the engine case, that covers the water pump/oil pump?
Thanks for your reply. I was talking about the engine cover, I believe it’s called. Once you open this cover, you will see the water pump hose, water pump and oil pump. This is the first cover to remove, to start the job. It has about six Allen screws surrounding it and a big Allen screw ind the middle of the cover. Also, what size is the tool?
Isnt the oil relief valve inside the motor when the oil pan is on? How can you tell its leaking since you cannot see it when the engine is assembled. The only openings are bolt holes, 1 coolant drain hole and one hole for the oil level sensor
Clutch spring bolt broke and the head bounced off my hand and fell behind clutch basket and i cant find it do you think it would have feel to the oil pan any ideas ?
According to the service manual, removing the clutch is part of the process however if you read the comments on video, one person stated they were able to remove pump without removing clutch. I believe you still have to remove the clutch cover. Maybe you can reply to the commenter if you have further questions.
Hi,nice video,regarding clutch removal,I have a `98 R1 and the pump setup is very similar to this,had a oil leak from the drain pipe so had to remove the pump-Instead of removing the clutch I found there was enough room to remove the pump sprocket bolt with a 10 mm ring spanner which frees the sprocket and lets you remove the pump without bothering the clutch.Have to bear in mind there`s no room for a torque wrench when refitting but if you take it carefully plus threadlock should be ok.
To remove oil/water pump, removing clutch is not necessary, unless you intend to service the clutch or replace the pump drive chain & a bit of disassembly advise, leave clutch plates in before cracking free the centre clutch hub nut, use plate friction to grip clutch by pressing on plates, this will grab the clutch pack so hub nut can be cracked loose.
Interesting...I did my procedures by following the service manual instructions. Another viewer also told me they were able to remove the pump without removing the clutch. I am guessing you would have to put the chain on the pump sprocket before bolting the pump in place if you dont remove the clutch?
Hello, I am sorry but I did not save a parts list. go to procaliber.com and look at the parts schematics for your bike. If you have the service manual for your bike, you can reference that to make sure you don't miss anything.
Have you ever had any trouble removing your clutch cover? I removed all the bolts and removed the cable the cover slightly comes off but not all the eay
Yes I have the first time I did it. basically it will want to stay stuck by the gasket. If you grab the small clutch pull lever and push it in the opposite direction that the clutch cable pulls it. that can possibly loosen it or I push on that lever and tap the clutch cover gently with a rubber mallet at the same time. this generally should do the trick. Also, you can remove the oil fill cap, stick you finger in the hole and use that as another point to pull the cover off while pushing the clutch pull lever. I would be curious to know if this helps you.
also, if you get the seal broken where the cover moves slightly but its still stuck you can wiggle it with small gentle but somewhat fast motion while pulling on the cover. Dont pry on it with any tools
Again awesome video. On my 05 I was able to remove the pump without messing with the clutch. There’s just enough room to wiggle it out once you remove water Inlet/outlets.
Hi David. Thanks for the update and the shortcut description. Great Information to save an hour or 2!
Thanks for the video brother.
Thank you!
Very informative and detailed video. Excellent work!
Thanks for the video. Just what I needed to see. Should be very similar to my 08 hopefully.
Fantastic. Interested to hear how it goes for you after you complete the work.
Thanks for making this video!
Hey boss awesome video ! Thank you! One question , my whole reason for getting into this project is because bike was overheating super quick like idleing like no circulation and I flushed system soo couldn’t have been that… any ideas?
Sounds like thermostat might not be opening. I found that I would have to replace it periodically on all my yamahas...its about a 12 or 14 dollar part at partzilla.com. you will need to remove the fuel tank to replace. Feel free to email me at tomcatsurfs@gmail.com if you want me to send you a copy of the 04-06 r1 service manual.
Thank you so much for making this video. Well made.
Your welcome...sorry its so lengthy...
I have an 05 R1 started to leak coolant from the oil pan hole not sure if I should replace the whole pump? Or what’s the seal I need to purchase and replace
Thanks!
Did you notice the tightness of the chain going from the clutch to the water pump? Mine seems a little loose after replacing the clutch and water pump, but I didn't check the looseness before I took it apart. So I have nothing to compare it to. What do you think? Thanks.
I would double chexk the upper chain pully on the shaft that the clutch is attached too. That upper pully has notches that if not lined up on shaft could cause the upper pully to spin freely and not turn the chain when the engine is running. Also, i remember a chain guide bracket somewhere between the upper pulley and the pump sprocket. I guess it matters what you mean when you say loose. Slightly loose could be ok as a slight amount of play is normal. Youdont want it to be tight. Alot of play could mean a stretched chain or a misaligned upper pulley. When i sold my bike a couple months ago it had 88000 miles on it and i never replaced that chain. You are welcome to video your chain tension and send me a link so i can look and give a better quess if you are good or not
I have 04 too, i heard that 04-06 are prone to in/ex valve dropping. What about generator rotor and magnet fall off problem, did you change it with upgraded one. Mine have close to 50000 km, so there is a lot of life left in her, i suppose. For some time i have a weird problem, engine starts normal when cold and hot (right after i shut the engine down), but if i shut the engine and leave it to cool down it cranks a little bit longer to start. It cranks and then after cca 4 seconds fuel light comes on and engine starts. Other then that engine run smooth and pulls strong. I think maybe its the valve clearance are too tight or some thing with fuel pressure, maybe fuel pressure relieve valve on TB. I think that the fuel pump is OK because there is no problems when i push the bike hard, there is no stalling or sputtering. What do you think.
I never had a valve problem on my 04. I sold it at 88k miles and still ran great.
My stator\generator failed at over 80k miles. It started making a whining noise and over a couple weeks of daily riding it got louder and louder and finally came apart. I replaced it with the upgraded oem part.
The battery should be replaced every 1 to 3 years. If it cranks poorly sometimes, i would put a new battery in it. If the fuel light com s on when it shouldn't that may indicate an issue with the fuel pump or fuel system. Keep in mind the fuel pump is a self contained unit that has an internal fuel tank level sensor and other parts. The pump can have a secondary part fail but still keep pumping fuel normally.
If I were you, i would make sure you have a new battery in the bike as this is often the cause...it still may have 13 volts but the cranking amps can drop off after a year and then bike has starting issues under certain conditions. If its not your battery then i dont know. Make sure when you turn on key, before hitting started that you hear the fuel pump prime the system.
Tommie !!! Thanks! badass!!~
Hi. nice video. i've got your same bike and the same problem; coolant leaking out from that hole. i guess the water pump is the problem, but could you tell me which part of the pump is the problem in more detail?
thanks for the video👍
Hello, I did not tear down the pump to determine which part failed in my particular issue. My best guess is that an internal seal on the pump has worn out and needs to be replaced. check procaliber.com schematic to see if they sell a rebuild kit for the pump.
Will this be the same process of an 2003 R1?
Do I need to drain the oil to be able to remove the clutch cover and plates?
No you dont have to drain oil to maintain the clutch
Hello. I enjoyed the video. Very detailed. Only one thing I missed. What tool did you use to unscrew the 3 screws in the middle of the engine case, that covers the water pump/oil pump?
If you are refering to the oil pan bolts in the center of the pan, i believe i used torx or allen/hex bits for a socket wrench
Thanks for your reply. I was talking about the engine cover, I believe it’s called. Once you open this cover, you will see the water pump hose, water pump and oil pump. This is the first cover to remove, to start the job. It has about six Allen screws surrounding it and a big Allen screw ind the middle of the cover. Also, what size is the tool?
Great video I do have a question my oil is dumping out of the oil relief valve what could be the issuse
Isnt the oil relief valve inside the motor when the oil pan is on? How can you tell its leaking since you cannot see it when the engine is assembled. The only openings are bolt holes, 1 coolant drain hole and one hole for the oil level sensor
Clutch spring bolt broke and the head bounced off my hand and fell behind clutch basket and i cant find it do you think it would have feel to the oil pan any ideas ?
Most likely in oil pan but could be hung up on some ledge somewhere. Magnet on a telescoping stick, cost a few dollars at most auto parts stores
@@TopSpeedTommy awsome thanks for the help man had me pretty worried lol
Do you have to remove the clutch just to remove the water pump?
According to the service manual, removing the clutch is part of the process however if you read the comments on video, one person stated they were able to remove pump without removing clutch. I believe you still have to remove the clutch cover. Maybe you can reply to the commenter if you have further questions.
Hi,nice video,regarding clutch removal,I have a `98 R1 and the pump setup is very similar to this,had a oil leak from the drain pipe so had to remove the pump-Instead of removing the clutch I found there was enough room to remove the pump sprocket bolt with a 10 mm ring spanner which frees the sprocket and lets you remove the pump without bothering the clutch.Have to bear in mind there`s no room for a torque wrench when refitting but if you take it carefully plus threadlock should be ok.
Forgot to mention with bike in gear sprocket will not turn with bolt.
To remove oil/water pump, removing clutch is not necessary, unless you intend to service the clutch or replace the pump drive chain & a bit of disassembly advise, leave clutch plates in before cracking free the centre clutch hub nut, use plate friction to grip clutch by pressing on plates, this will grab the clutch pack so hub nut can be cracked loose.
Interesting...I did my procedures by following the service manual instructions. Another viewer also told me they were able to remove the pump without removing the clutch. I am guessing you would have to put the chain on the pump sprocket before bolting the pump in place if you dont remove the clutch?
Hi how do you know when your water pump is gone ?
When coolant began flowing out of the safety release hole in the bottom of the oil pan on my bike was the reason i knew i had a problem.
Can you send me the parts list for the water pump seals and gaskets plz ? I have water leaking out the weep hole in my 05 r1
Hello, I am sorry but I did not save a parts list. go to procaliber.com and look at the parts schematics for your bike. If you have the service manual for your bike, you can reference that to make sure you don't miss anything.
Have you ever had any trouble removing your clutch cover? I removed all the bolts and removed the cable the cover slightly comes off but not all the eay
Yes I have the first time I did it. basically it will want to stay stuck by the gasket. If you grab the small clutch pull lever and push it in the opposite direction that the clutch cable pulls it. that can possibly loosen it or I push on that lever and tap the clutch cover gently with a rubber mallet at the same time. this generally should do the trick. Also, you can remove the oil fill cap, stick you finger in the hole and use that as another point to pull the cover off while pushing the clutch pull lever. I would be curious to know if this helps you.
also, if you get the seal broken where the cover moves slightly but its still stuck you can wiggle it with small gentle but somewhat fast motion while pulling on the cover. Dont pry on it with any tools