Best vid on this subject that I have seen so far. Thank you for explaining that I could use a 3 pin to fix mine that only had a 2 pin. I could not find a 2 pin replacement.
I searched far an wide and was about to throw out a mini-fridge because everyone talked about it but no one showed anything well. Thank you. Now at least I can make an attempt to salvage it.
I can’t thank you enough for posting this video. I followed the instructions stem to stem and repaired a mini fridge that I was just about to throw out. Please keep up the great work and much appreciated. God bless.
I have this same exact sunbeam mini fridge. It worked so well for seven years. It just stopped working recently. I just took off the relay and they are definitely rattling. Have to replace them for sure Thanks so much for this video. I pray your video gets 100 million views!!!!.
Thanks Dustin for posting this and other videos about mini-Frig simple repair. I checked the compressor start relay and it appeared to be functioning fine. You replied that it might still be an issue. I ordered the starting relay and overload device from Amazon, deciding that either or both might be an issue. Replaced them and my wine frig is working as it should. Thanks so much for putting this out there. Minor, inexpensive and relatively easy to repair.
Thank you so much for sharing. I have that same exact fridge and it just stopped cooling two days ago. I called Sunbeam support asking if they could recommend a local repair person. I was transferred to Galen’s (a company claiming to sell the parts for various bands of mini fridges. I was told that that parts aren’t being shipped and my best bet was to just buy a new fridge. I’m going to follow the steps you did and just see what happens before I decide to just chunk my fridge. I’ve only had it for 3 years, so I really expected it to be repairable.
So I got to the plug and tested for the complete circuit with the two flat things. I just hear a fuzzy sound. So I know my issue is related to the plug.
@@angelaskipping3110 the two flat pins SHOULD have continuity. A flat pin to the round pin (ground) or flat pin to any metal surface near the compressor should NOT have continuity.
@@angelaskipping3110 and the fuzzy sound just means that there’s just a tad bit of resistance, which is expected. You meter may not may a clear beep sound. You can also look at your meter and if the number is near to 0, it means there is the indicated number of ohms of resistance. If this is the case, you’re good to proceed as long as you do NOT have any continuity to ground.
This video helped me figure out what was wrong with my mini fridge, even though my problem wasn't the same as yours. I checked the overload protector to make sure it was a short and the relay to make sure it was the right voltage. They were both fine, so next I disconnected the connector between power/compressor and the thermostat (it's in a black plastic box screwed into the back) and directly connected the red wire to the black wire from AC input. This tests the compressor; if the compressor doesn't turn on when I plug in the outlet, then the compressor is probably broken. In my case though, the compressor did turn on, so that left only one other thing that could be broken: the thermostat. I was able to get at the thermostat from inside my minifridge (it was directly connected to the temperature control knob), and from testing around with the thermal probe I could see that it was not engaging properly at temp. So I ordered a new one and gonna see if it works! Overall I would not have known what to do without seeing this video!
Great diagnosis...Well done.....Sad thing is people throw these things out because a Tradesman would charge over $300 to fix that.....and the previous owners are unable to do what you just did.....I have picked up many fridges just like this, fixed them, then given them away to free home....
Great video! thanks. I think of videos like this as "the matrix." as in downloading a new skill, and confidently diving into it. I have a fridge that's been down almost a year, and wasn't sure what parts / pieces it had that could be it. Plugged in it just hums and clicks off so at least I can look for these two items to get an idea that solves it. thanks
Man you the best,I did the same thing like you did,I picked one fresh off the curbside I followed your steps and it works with fixing the old PTC, please don't stop being your self. Thank you for this informative video
You're exactly right. They should have used a relay that uses cell batteries or some AA sized lithium batteries. This way you can replace the batteries instead of the whole unit 👍👍
Mine is loud. It works well, I just got it on Facebook marketplace but the compressor seems loud. I just checked the rubber to make sure it is isolated from rattling. It just sound annoying.
Great thanks great video we had a power outage and after the power outage was over the mini fridge would turn on but not get cool what is the troubleshoot for this
Thank you SO much for the detailed video. Unrelated, but what is typically the problem if the fridge is "stuck" on freezing even though the setting is not set to coldest. Our problem is that the whole thing is a freezer. We have a GE. Thanks so much!
My mini fridge just quit working, now I'm ready to check it out. Thanks for the detailed diagnosis! (Later) I checked it out and the PTC resistor is broken inside. My PTC only had 2 pins in the #2&3 positions. I couldn't find a relay like that so thanks for specifically answering my question - can I use a 3 pin relay for 2 pin application. Ordering now!
Bad thermostat. I just got mine partially repaired, but has a small leak and the motor is on it's last legs (runs but overheats). So I was advised to use a power outlet timer in addition to the thermostat, to ensure the compressor gets to rest and cool down by cutting off it's power at certain hours. It's a good practice even with fully functional fridges, to extend their lifespan. So
Great video, thanks. I checked the plug and both relay parts with multimeter-all tested as good. Plug it in then and no sound of it running at all, just silence. What might the problem be given that scenario (and how to fix)? Thank you.
I have a mini fridge that has some ice build up and works, but seems to be cycling from hot on the outer sides when it kick on and buzzes then goes silent again and the outer sides get cool off. Should it be doing that?
I have a Galanz Mini Fridge and it's awesome. Only problem is the bottom part to keep it standing straight, is missing the front right side to it. So it stays tilted. Anyone know what it's called so I can replace it? I've used cardboard pieces and it works, but I'd rather juat get it fixed.
Great video. Can you explain why there is continuity between L&N with the thermostat on? Wouldn’t a short mean that the breaker would trip as soon as you plug it in? I guess I’m not familiar with what the impedances of a mini fridge are.
Thanks. You've got to remember that we're dealing with alternating current, so you can't think of a short like you would with direct current. The thermostats typically work off of pressure applied to a small disk via a capillary tube. When the pressure increases/decreases as temperature changes, it'll apply/reduce pressure in the thermostat switch which effectively completes or breaks the circuit thus turning the compressor on or off. Knowing that the fridge is likely warm inside, the thermostat, if dialed to a 'cool' temp setting would be in the 'ON' position, meaning there would be complete circuit between the load and neutral pins of the plug.
Is it normal for the starter relay to get extremely hot? I had just ordered a brand new starter relay because the new one is what’s getting super hot! Should the starter relay be shaking making a sound? I’ve never really fixed a mini fridge before so this is why I’m asking these questions! Just in case it’s a Hisense mini compact fridge, I meant to say the overload protection black and white one should it be getting extremely hot not the starter relay, I put the new parts in and it still kept shutting off I didn’t hear the compressor kick over so could it be something to do with one of them why it’s not kicking over or did they give me the wrong part?!
I replaced the start relay and overload on my fridge and it began working again.... for a day. It smells like it overheated and now it's failing to cool the box again. What could cause this?
I’d unplug the fridge and let the compressor get cool to the touch, then plug it in and try again. If the compressor starts up, it may indicate that the compressor is starting to fail and seizes when it gets war. There’s also a possibility that the compressor has tried to start so many times in a row that it has heated up and you may still have a start relay or a bad capacitor, if it is a capacitor start compressor.
how could a unit fail just by sitting dormant? I have a unit that stayed in place but was unplugged for a few months. when I plugged it back in, the compressor wont' start.
A lot of possible scenarios. Corrosion on wiring contacts? Oil in compressor settled and the compressor seized? Mice chewed through wiring? Have you checked the relay and overload? As shown in this video, a faulty relay won’t necessarily sound bad but will prevent the compressor from starting.
Hi Dustin. I bought a similar fridge brand new, and when moving it around the compressor clanks inside it's housing. Did yours do the same thing? Mine runs fine but only when moving it the noise can be heard. Some have said it is normal on smaller fridges, but I have another mini fridge that doesn't do it.
What does it mean when my rca mini fridge (2yrs old) is running, on the Coldest setting (7) and the internal temp will only go down to 45F? It had ran on and off all night but will not go below 45F to make ice. Thanks for the informative video.
@@DustinRogersinMO the compressor wasn’t running constantly. It running like normal then stop. Then while later it kick on again. I’m also leaning toward low refrigerant.
i have a question I have a monster coolers that is cylinder in shape that you see in convenient stores that quiet cooling would this be kinda the same setup before i take it apart or do you happen to know thanks
@@DustinRogersinMO i was just looking at it thru the holes from the vent and its almost exactly the same and thanks for the video cause i mess my drink cooler
I found a blaze 4.4 cubic inch and side of road that said works on piece of paper. Got home opened it and it looked brand spanking new. Plugged it in and no matter if its on number 6 setting which is the coldest or number 1 setting it constantly says 50 degrees on my thermostat that i placed on the shelf. Cant find any info online or UA-cam except it could be damper control being stuck closed. Any thoughts?
If the compressor is starting and cycling after a while, I'd suspect an issue with the thermostat. It may be kicking off too early, not allowing the compressor to cool down to the appropriate temperature. If the compressor never starts, it's likely a relay or overload device that I demonstrate in this video. If the compressor runs non-stop, I'd suspect that it's low on refrigerant and it's unable to cool down any lower than 50 degrees.
Yes. Typically there is a fan that will distribute cold air from the freezer to the fridge compartment. If that fan isn’t working, or the passage way between the freezer and fridge is blocked from ice buildup, the fridge won’t get cold.
Hello i have a question, how to disconect that small freezer inside, its possible? I just damaged that freezer with knife, and dont know what to do... Thanx for answer man.
@@Slovan.nie.kolaborant you could repair the hole, but the system would then have to be recharged. Unless you know someone with the equipment to do it, it’d probably cost more to recharge it than a brand new fridge would cost.
Hey Dustin my start relay has 2 pins and the number on it is j531q32e. Google keeps pointing to the 1 pin relay. The terminals are numered and the pin mine was connected on was on pin 2. The 1 pin relay has the pin on number 2. You think i would be safe with the 1 pin relay? Dont really know what to make of the numbers on my relay as they don't seem similar to the 4.7 relay. I did measure the resistance on mine and i was getting 956 ohms so its bad for sure. Another thing on the rear tag for the specs on my fridge it shows power input of 90w
Found this link which may give you another number to cross reference and see if it looks the same as what you currently have. www.appliancepartspros.com/answers-for-samsung-relay-ptc-da35-00099g-ap4566388-question-220951.html
@@DustinRogersinMO thanks man. So the replacement part doesn't look exactly the same but the repair video associated with the part shows the exact same looking part. Only difference is that relay is being used on a full sized refrigerator and I have a small Danby mini fridge. That fridge also has 2 wires connected to it while mine only has 1 wire connected to it on pin 2. I'm still a little unsure. I'll try and do more research. In the end I feel the 1 pin 4.7 relay might be the correct part.
Usually it means that it’s low on refrigerant. Most times it’s cost prohibitive to repair unless you happen to have the vacuum pump, recovery tank, gauges, and a way to add test ports to the lines.
My mini fridge starts right up, compressor sounds normal. No cooling. Thermostat was turned to the coldest setting. My start relay has 6 prongs, so not as common, or so I have found. Anything else I can check?
If the compressor continuously runs, but it never cools off, it’s usually low on refrigerant. Unless you have the equipment to vacuum down the system, repair the leak, and recharge it, it’s usually cost prohibitive to pay a professional to repair a mini fridge. Usually costs less to replace it.
Just replaced the relay and overload on my SC68 mini fridge but compressor doesn’t start. There is just a low hum and the compressor gets very hot. Does this mean the compressor is likely bad? Could the compressor possibly be locked and just needs a jump somehow?
I’d guess your compressor is on its way out. They do sell compressor start packs, which is basically a big capacitor that gives it a little extra juice at startup, but they range in price from $40-60. You may get a couple days before the compressor finally seizes, or it may last you a year or two. It’s kind of a gamble and typically not worth it on a mini fridge.
@@DustinRogersinMO to be clear, I didn’t get a beep on plug that plugs into outlet. I was popping a GFCI outlet that I had a radio plugged into. When I plugged the frig in, that GFCI with radio would trip and then I knew it was the frig. but the breaker wasn’t tripping. Dial inside is set to max. Both relay and other thingy(lol) had positive beeps in continuity test.
Did you check continuity between one flat prong and the round pin on the plug? That should read OL. If it doesn’t, it means you have a short to ground which is what is causing the GFCI to trip
Curious: When you pointed out the overload protection: One of your wires is red. Mine are Black and white. Other question: How would the "overload" happen? Does the overload protection work like a surge protector?
The power cord on mine has a white jacket, after it gets into the back of the fridge, they used some different wire to connect to the overload and start relay. They just happened to use red wire instead of black. Your black wire should be hooked to the overload as it connect to the “Common” (top) pin of the compressor. The overload works more as a circuit breaker/fuse. If the compressor starts drawing too much current, it’ll heat up which cause the overload to trip and cut power. The excess current draw can be caused by a compressor that has developed an internal short or is starting to seize up due to wear, low oil, loss of refrigerant, etc.
Doubtful. I suspect that the compressor is failing. After it runs for a while and heats up, it may develop a short internally that is causing the GFI to trip.
I have a question, I replaced both the overload and start relays, and my wine chiller s still doing the same thing, the compressor turns on, then clicks off after a moment, I filed down the female connections a bit but that didn’t help, any suggestions would be much appreciated.
@@alvaromontoya7529 did the original relay and overload test bad? The problem may be with the compressor itself. It may be starting to seize up, which causes it to draw more current which trips the overload. You can buy a “hard start kit” (affiliate link: amzn.to/3NJDpXk) which replaces the start relay with a big capacitor that gives the compressor a little boost to get going. These can get some extra life out of a unit, but the expected life is unknown. It could last for a year or more or it may stop working after a couple days. It’s cheap enough to give it a shot.
It looks like the freezer I was given has been damaged. Not cooling. There are marks on the inside of the freezer part that looks like someone took a knife or tool to it. Can the freezer be replaced or should I just buy a new one?
Hi Dustin can you help me, my relay has 6 flat prongs not just one like in this video, I’m not sure which color wire goes where, there’s a purple, 2 black, blue, white There’s two silver prongs together on the top right side of the relay and one silver prong on the top left side There’s two golden prongs on the bottom left and one silver prong on the bottom right I tried measuring the ohms of the power cord prongs but it just stayed on ‘1’ no matter what
I have a magic chef 3.9 cubic mini fridge. I replaced both parts and it's still not getting cold. The compressor gets very very hot and keeps running. I'm assuming it's out of refrigerant or there's a leak somewhere in the line. Sounds like it would cost too much to put refrigerant in it. Darn. The refrigerator was working fine and then things starting cooling down. It looks brand new. These are about $180 new now!?
@@nativendn7382 without seeing your meter, I can’t say for certain, but I would guess that the 20 is the amount of ohms it’s measuring. Is there any symbols displayed on the meter screen? Like an upside down horseshoe (ohm symbol)? If your meter reads 20 ohms with the leads touching, that seems excessive. Is there a decimal point in front of the 2? Because 0.20 ohms would make more sense. Can you set your meter to ohms setting and touch the leads together? Does it give the same reading?
@@nativendn7382 you’ve got it set on the diode check setting (arrow with the line). Turn it one click to the left so it’s on the ‘200’ setting. That’s the setting for measuring Ohms (up to 200 ohms). With the dial on that setting, when you touch your leads together, what does the screen show? Make sure you’re not touching the metal part of your leads, as that could affect the reading.
Check the thermostat. If it’s turned to a warm-ish setting and still freezing things, I’d suspect a faulty thermostat that is unable to regulate temperature properly.
my Avanti mini fridge has a start relay that has the letters "PTH 490C then -AS 6R8 then what looks like the letter M inside the letter C then 5DN66A. when testing it, it reads 7.7 ohms. I cant find a replacement part for it. Any thoughts?
I couldn’t find that particular part number, but I did find the data sheet for it. www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/pth490/-2042694835020093711/ Looks like is supposed to be a 3.3 ohm, but the one I have linked in the description should work
Some brands of fridges use a start capacitor or a run capacitor or both which require more connectors. If your relay is busted, just order one with the correct number of connectors and hook the wires back to the same positions they were in originally and you should be good to go. There’s links to three different styles in the description
@@paullewis7813 Yeah I got it on, it just took some maneuvering. It's a little bit of a puzzle as I remember, gotta have it turned the right way, then it seems like "... duh."
Excellent info in your video. Someone gave me a 3.1 cu ft. Galanz mini frig with a freezer on top. Both "chill" but do not get cold enough even on the coldest setting. The person said they thought their kids left the door open on the refrig that was kept outside on a porch, and they it would not cool properly. Do you think the problem might be the thermostat? If so, any idea how I would test that? Thank you so much!
I’d check to see how long the compressor runs. If the compressor runs non stop and never shuts off, it’s likely low on refrigerant and can’t get it any cooler. If the compressor runs for a bit (5 minutes - 1 hour) and then shuts off, and the internal fridge temp is only “cool”, then it seems like the thermostat is signaling that the desired temp has been reached and to “stop cooling”, which would be a thermostat issue.
@@DustinRogersinMO it's running nonstop. This probably sounds like a silly question, but how can I get refrigerant for it? Will an appliance shop be able to help me?
@@kycatrescue7305 search for the channel called sixtyfiveford. I think he’s got an older video showing how to recharge a fridge, but unless you find and fix the leak, it likely won’t let long.
@@kycatrescue7305 That's a deal breaker. The leak must be found & repaired & then a vacuum pulled before adding the correct amount of refrigerant. You'd need an HVAC guy & it would cost much more than just buying a new frig.
"I don't know the history of this unit". Well, I think I can figure it out. It was plugged in, left plugged in, and things were put in it. Same history every other fridge has except stickers were applied to the front. Interesting that an inherently flawed thermister is used. I wonder if its just cheaper or if they want that to fail before something more catastrophic.
Careful swapping to a 3 pin. I’m sure it’s all good in most cases but it definitely wasn’t in mine. I got a 3 pin relay to replace the broken “2 pin” in my galanz fridge. I swapped them over in the same locations and heard buzzing when I gave it power. Unplugged it and pulled it back apart. I took the cover off of each relay and came to find out that the 2 pin relay was actually a 1 pin relay with a dummy terminal in the #2 position. I guess just to give a spot to mount the 2 hot wires together, but they weren’t actually doing anything in the relay? So when I swapped it over like that on the 3 pin, it was shorting out. Yikes. I ended up taking the in tact disk out of the 3 pin and putting it in the original “2 pin” relay. Everything is working perfect now. Just a heads up to anyone who might come across this as well. I don’t know if it’s poor design from galanz, but definitely doesn’t seem the most safe lol
Best vid on this subject that I have seen so far. Thank you for explaining that I could use a 3 pin to fix mine that only had a 2 pin. I could not find a 2 pin replacement.
Super helpful. In particular, I liked that you took apart the start relay to show how simple the inside was.
Best UA-cam video on how to fix mini refrig electrical issues!
The video gave a clear understanding of how everything works and how to fix the problem. Good job!
I searched far an wide and was about to throw out a mini-fridge because everyone talked about it but no one showed anything well. Thank you. Now at least I can make an attempt to salvage it.
I can’t thank you enough for posting this video. I followed the instructions stem to stem and repaired a mini fridge that I was just about to throw out. Please keep up the great work and much appreciated. God bless.
I have this same exact sunbeam mini fridge. It worked so well for seven years. It just stopped working recently. I just took off the relay and they are definitely rattling. Have to replace them for sure Thanks so much for this video.
I pray your video gets 100 million views!!!!.
Thanks Dustin for posting this and other videos about mini-Frig simple repair. I checked the compressor start relay and it appeared to be functioning fine. You replied that it might still be an issue. I ordered the starting relay and overload device from Amazon, deciding that either or both might be an issue. Replaced them and my wine frig is working as it should. Thanks so much for putting this out there. Minor, inexpensive and relatively easy to repair.
Score! Gotta love curb side mini fridges. These things are always the exact same problem in my experience.
Thank you so much for sharing. I have that same exact fridge and it just stopped cooling two days ago. I called Sunbeam support asking if they could recommend a local repair person. I was transferred to Galen’s (a company claiming to sell the parts for various bands of mini fridges. I was told that that parts aren’t being shipped and my best bet was to just buy a new fridge. I’m going to follow the steps you did and just see what happens before I decide to just chunk my fridge. I’ve only had it for 3 years, so I really expected it to be repairable.
Good luck with the repair. If you have questions along the way, I’ll try to help
So I got to the plug and tested for the complete circuit with the two flat things. I just hear a fuzzy sound. So I know my issue is related to the plug.
@@angelaskipping3110 the two flat pins SHOULD have continuity. A flat pin to the round pin (ground) or flat pin to any metal surface near the compressor should NOT have continuity.
@@angelaskipping3110 and the fuzzy sound just means that there’s just a tad bit of resistance, which is expected. You meter may not may a clear beep sound. You can also look at your meter and if the number is near to 0, it means there is the indicated number of ohms of resistance. If this is the case, you’re good to proceed as long as you do NOT have any continuity to ground.
Just excellent. Clear, precise, no nonsense. Thank you.
Awesome. You always teach me something new and in a way i understand.
Thank you Dustin for this super helpful video! Amazon had the relay I needed - cheers bud!
Thank you for the knowledge you taught me I was able to save my fridge and wallet :)
This video helped me figure out what was wrong with my mini fridge, even though my problem wasn't the same as yours. I checked the overload protector to make sure it was a short and the relay to make sure it was the right voltage. They were both fine, so next I disconnected the connector between power/compressor and the thermostat (it's in a black plastic box screwed into the back) and directly connected the red wire to the black wire from AC input. This tests the compressor; if the compressor doesn't turn on when I plug in the outlet, then the compressor is probably broken.
In my case though, the compressor did turn on, so that left only one other thing that could be broken: the thermostat. I was able to get at the thermostat from inside my minifridge (it was directly connected to the temperature control knob), and from testing around with the thermal probe I could see that it was not engaging properly at temp. So I ordered a new one and gonna see if it works! Overall I would not have known what to do without seeing this video!
Thank You!! totally complete and detail. The best of all
Very detailed and informative. I especially like the way he shows clearly how to test the 2 parts. Thanks!
Because of this video I now have a working mini fridge again! Much obliged!
Great video my mini ref stopped working will be checking these parts. I need to get NY beer cold
Of all videos I seen tonite yours is the best one ...thanks bubba nice job !!!
Thanks.
Great diagnosis...Well done.....Sad thing is people throw these things out because a Tradesman would charge over $300 to fix that.....and the previous owners are unable to do what you just did.....I have picked up many fridges just like this, fixed them, then given them away to free home....
Thanks. I donated this one to a local youth theater.
Great stuff mahn! Very interesting and knowledgeable 👍
Bro! Great stuff.
thanks you really helped me fix my brother in law mini fridge 🙂
Sounds like he’s a sister in law 😂
Great video! thanks. I think of videos like this as "the matrix." as in downloading a new skill, and confidently diving into it.
I have a fridge that's been down almost a year, and wasn't sure what parts / pieces it had that could be it. Plugged in it just hums and clicks off so at least I can look for these two items to get an idea that solves it. thanks
Thanks...great job... informative without wasting time on periferals.
Man you the best,I did the same thing like you did,I picked one fresh off the curbside I followed your steps and it works with fixing the old PTC, please don't stop being your self.
Thank you for this informative video
Awesome video!! Thank u
Thanks a lot.
Is not enough.
Very simple and knowledgeable.
Thanks Thanks, Thanks, Thanks, Thanks, Thanks
What if there isn’t any continuity when two flat blades of the plug are put on multimeter?
Thank you for the education. Now I know what to look for. 👍
i tried a 3 pin to replace a 2 pin it tripped the breaker the pins are numberd noticed that the pins are different as far as number location
Well, this info will come in handy someday. Thx. It strikes me that PTC relay is like a built-in self destruct feature. Planned obsolescence.
You're exactly right. They should have used a relay that uses cell batteries or some AA sized lithium batteries. This way you can replace the batteries instead of the whole unit 👍👍
Mine is loud. It works well, I just got it on Facebook marketplace but the compressor seems loud. I just checked the rubber to make sure it is isolated from rattling. It just sound annoying.
Great thanks great video we had a power outage and after the power outage was over the mini fridge would turn on but not get cool what is the troubleshoot for this
Thank you SO much for the detailed video. Unrelated, but what is typically the problem if the fridge is "stuck" on freezing even though the setting is not set to coldest. Our problem is that the whole thing is a freezer. We have a GE. Thanks so much!
Really awesome video! Thanks
Thanks
My start relay doesn’t look like yours though. Just a bunch of copper wire rolled around a tab
@@lisahummel7795 that’s a different style of relay and works a bit differently. I’ve not encountered that style, but I have seen some other videos.
My little refrigerator went out Imma try what you did😁
great video easy good teacher
Wow pretty cool fix
How would the Relay Specifications change with a 12VDC unit?
My mini fridge just quit working, now I'm ready to check it out. Thanks for the detailed diagnosis!
(Later) I checked it out and the PTC resistor is broken inside. My PTC only had 2 pins in the #2&3 positions. I couldn't find a relay like that so thanks for specifically answering my question - can I use a 3 pin relay for 2 pin application. Ordering now!
Thank you
Great video, helped a lot thanks
What would cause freezing, no matter the setting on the temp control? The fridge never shuts off basically.
My guess would be a bad thermostat
Bad thermostat. I just got mine partially repaired, but has a small leak and the motor is on it's last legs (runs but overheats). So I was advised to use a power outlet timer in addition to the thermostat, to ensure the compressor gets to rest and cool down by cutting off it's power at certain hours. It's a good practice even with fully functional fridges, to extend their lifespan. So
Great video, thanks. I checked the plug and both relay parts with multimeter-all tested as good. Plug it in then and no sound of it running at all, just silence. What might the problem be given that scenario (and how to fix)? Thank you.
Possibly a thermostat issue not triggering a request to start cooling.
Excellent video learn lot solve my problem thank you sir 👌🏿👍🏽
THANK YOU. its was useful video
I have a mini fridge that has some ice build up and works, but seems to be cycling from hot on the outer sides when it kick on and buzzes then goes silent again and the outer sides get cool off. Should it be doing that?
Excellent and outstanding video. Great work! But I'm wondering have you ever tried repairing a mini-fridge's thermostat? That's what I'm facing.
I haven’t. What issue are you experiencing?
The compressor sounds noisy on the video. Was it normal live?
I have a Galanz Mini Fridge and it's awesome. Only problem is the bottom part to keep it standing straight, is missing the front right side to it. So it stays tilted. Anyone know what it's called so I can replace it? I've used cardboard pieces and it works, but I'd rather juat get it fixed.
Great video. Can you explain why there is continuity between L&N with the thermostat on? Wouldn’t a short mean that the breaker would trip as soon as you plug it in? I guess I’m not familiar with what the impedances of a mini fridge are.
Thanks. You've got to remember that we're dealing with alternating current, so you can't think of a short like you would with direct current. The thermostats typically work off of pressure applied to a small disk via a capillary tube. When the pressure increases/decreases as temperature changes, it'll apply/reduce pressure in the thermostat switch which effectively completes or breaks the circuit thus turning the compressor on or off. Knowing that the fridge is likely warm inside, the thermostat, if dialed to a 'cool' temp setting would be in the 'ON' position, meaning there would be complete circuit between the load and neutral pins of the plug.
Super! Thanks.
Is it normal for the starter relay to get extremely hot? I had just ordered a brand new starter relay because the new one is what’s getting super hot! Should the starter relay be shaking making a sound? I’ve never really fixed a mini fridge before so this is why I’m asking these questions! Just in case it’s a Hisense mini compact fridge, I meant to say the overload protection black and white one should it be getting extremely hot not the starter relay, I put the new parts in and it still kept shutting off I didn’t hear the compressor kick over so could it be something to do with one of them why it’s not kicking over or did they give me the wrong part?!
I replaced the start relay and overload on my fridge and it began working again.... for a day. It smells like it overheated and now it's failing to cool the box again. What could cause this?
If the compressor just gets hot but doesn’t hum like this does that mean the compressor is shot? All other components were tested
I’d unplug the fridge and let the compressor get cool to the touch, then plug it in and try again. If the compressor starts up, it may indicate that the compressor is starting to fail and seizes when it gets war. There’s also a possibility that the compressor has tried to start so many times in a row that it has heated up and you may still have a start relay or a bad capacitor, if it is a capacitor start compressor.
Very helpful thank you
The wire connectors are fired and crumbled off on my relay. Where can i get these type of connectors to replace them for the new relay?
Assuming you have the same style of relay as shown in this video, you’d need connectors and a suitable crimper like this. amzn.to/3KNUY6O
@@DustinRogersinMOThanks I appreciate it. And yea it is the same as the one in the video. Once i get these ordered i will let you know what happens.
Yeah that’s cool I think that’s gonna help me out
Such a good video
Thanks
My fridge just on after one minute compressor off. Again compressor on and off what is the problem?.
Please what's the size
how could a unit fail just by sitting dormant? I have a unit that stayed in place but was unplugged for a few months. when I plugged it back in, the compressor wont' start.
A lot of possible scenarios. Corrosion on wiring contacts? Oil in compressor settled and the compressor seized? Mice chewed through wiring?
Have you checked the relay and overload? As shown in this video, a faulty relay won’t necessarily sound bad but will prevent the compressor from starting.
Replaced relay and overheat things and it works!!!
Hi Dustin. I bought a similar fridge brand new, and when moving it around the compressor clanks inside it's housing. Did yours do the same thing? Mine runs fine but only when moving it the noise can be heard. Some have said it is normal on smaller fridges, but I have another mini fridge that doesn't do it.
Yep. That’s normal
What does it mean when my rca mini fridge (2yrs old) is running, on the Coldest setting (7) and the internal temp will only go down to 45F? It had ran on and off all night but will not go below 45F to make ice. Thanks for the informative video.
If the compressor runs continuously but it never cools down it’s usually an indication of low refrigerant.
@@DustinRogersinMO the compressor wasn’t running constantly. It running like normal then stop. Then while later it kick on again. I’m also leaning toward low refrigerant.
i have a question I have a monster coolers that is cylinder in shape that you see in convenient stores that quiet cooling would this be kinda the same setup before i take it apart or do you happen to know thanks
It’s probably very similar. Look for an access panel that can be removed
@@DustinRogersinMO i was just looking at it thru the holes from the vent and its almost exactly the same and thanks for the video cause i mess my drink cooler
I have the same issue. Little black model number is QP2-6R8MD2.
Does this mean it a 6 ohm? Can I use a 15 ohm part? All I can find.
The 6R8 most likely means 6.8 Ohm. If you Google QP2-6R8 you should get a few results for eBay. Looks like they’re around $20-25
Very helpful. Thanks so much.
I found a blaze 4.4 cubic inch and side of road that said works on piece of paper. Got home opened it and it looked brand spanking new. Plugged it in and no matter if its on number 6 setting which is the coldest or number 1 setting it constantly says 50 degrees on my thermostat that i placed on the shelf. Cant find any info online or UA-cam except it could be damper control being stuck closed. Any thoughts?
If the compressor is starting and cycling after a while, I'd suspect an issue with the thermostat. It may be kicking off too early, not allowing the compressor to cool down to the appropriate temperature. If the compressor never starts, it's likely a relay or overload device that I demonstrate in this video. If the compressor runs non-stop, I'd suspect that it's low on refrigerant and it's unable to cool down any lower than 50 degrees.
@@DustinRogersinMO Thanks for the quick reply and taking the time to do so. Stay healthy and safe brother!🇺🇸 🙏 🔫
Another great informative video!
I have a 2 door mini fridge. Is it possible that the freezer would cool but not the fridge?
Yes. Typically there is a fan that will distribute cold air from the freezer to the fridge compartment. If that fan isn’t working, or the passage way between the freezer and fridge is blocked from ice buildup, the fridge won’t get cold.
@@DustinRogersinMO thank you for the time and your insight!👍
Hello i have a question, how to disconect that small freezer inside, its possible? I just damaged that freezer with knife, and dont know what to do... Thanx for answer man.
The small freezer is what provides the cooling for the entire unit.
@@DustinRogersinMO Ok. Its some posibility to "repair" a hole with liquid metal? Or some other option???
@@Slovan.nie.kolaborant you could repair the hole, but the system would then have to be recharged. Unless you know someone with the equipment to do it, it’d probably cost more to recharge it than a brand new fridge would cost.
@@DustinRogersinMO Thanx for Your time man. Have a nice day.
Hey Dustin my start relay has 2 pins and the number on it is j531q32e. Google keeps pointing to the 1 pin relay. The terminals are numered and the pin mine was connected on was on pin 2. The 1 pin relay has the pin on number 2. You think i would be safe with the 1 pin relay? Dont really know what to make of the numbers on my relay as they don't seem similar to the 4.7 relay. I did measure the resistance on mine and i was getting 956 ohms so its bad for sure. Another thing on the rear tag for the specs on my fridge it shows power input of 90w
Found this link which may give you another number to cross reference and see if it looks the same as what you currently have.
www.appliancepartspros.com/answers-for-samsung-relay-ptc-da35-00099g-ap4566388-question-220951.html
@@DustinRogersinMO thanks man. So the replacement part doesn't look exactly the same but the repair video associated with the part shows the exact same looking part. Only difference is that relay is being used on a full sized refrigerator and I have a small Danby mini fridge. That fridge also has 2 wires connected to it while mine only has 1 wire connected to it on pin 2. I'm still a little unsure. I'll try and do more research. In the end I feel the 1 pin 4.7 relay might be the correct part.
I have a magic chef retro mini refrigerator that’s not cooling Module HMCR320ME do you have any suggestions. Thank you
if the compressor keeps running and never stops and one side of the fridge gets hot, what does that mean? a bad thermostat?
Usually it means that it’s low on refrigerant. Most times it’s cost prohibitive to repair unless you happen to have the vacuum pump, recovery tank, gauges, and a way to add test ports to the lines.
My mini fridge starts right up, compressor sounds normal. No cooling. Thermostat was turned to the coldest setting.
My start relay has 6 prongs, so not as common, or so I have found.
Anything else I can check?
If the compressor continuously runs, but it never cools off, it’s usually low on refrigerant. Unless you have the equipment to vacuum down the system, repair the leak, and recharge it, it’s usually cost prohibitive to pay a professional to repair a mini fridge. Usually costs less to replace it.
@Dustin Rogers ok. Thanks.
I was about 75 % sure that was the case.
I'm not a tech, just mess around with a few items.
I do appreciate the info
my compressor running, but it is very hot, and not cooling..thanks
If the compressor is running nonstop, it usually indicates that it is low on refrigerant from some pinhole leak somewhere in the system.
Just replaced the relay and overload on my SC68 mini fridge but compressor doesn’t start. There is just a low hum and the compressor gets very hot. Does this mean the compressor is likely bad? Could the compressor possibly be locked and just needs a jump somehow?
I’d guess your compressor is on its way out. They do sell compressor start packs, which is basically a big capacitor that gives it a little extra juice at startup, but they range in price from $40-60. You may get a couple days before the compressor finally seizes, or it may last you a year or two. It’s kind of a gamble and typically not worth it on a mini fridge.
What if there is no beep when I touch both prongs in a continuity check??
And the multimeter is reading OL. Open circuit? I have no clue what that means
Check if the thermostat is turned to an On position
@@DustinRogersinMO to be clear, I didn’t get a beep on plug that plugs into outlet. I was popping a GFCI outlet that I had a radio plugged into. When I plugged the frig in, that GFCI with radio would trip and then I knew it was the frig. but the breaker wasn’t tripping. Dial inside is set to max. Both relay and other thingy(lol) had positive beeps in continuity test.
Did you check continuity between one flat prong and the round pin on the plug? That should read OL. If it doesn’t, it means you have a short to ground which is what is causing the GFCI to trip
@@DustinRogersinMO yes. No beeps at all. I also just checked the plug to ground. It beeped. Was I supposed to be in continuity there too?
Curious: When you pointed out the overload protection: One of your wires is red. Mine are Black and white. Other question: How would the "overload" happen? Does the overload protection work like a surge protector?
The power cord on mine has a white jacket, after it gets into the back of the fridge, they used some different wire to connect to the overload and start relay. They just happened to use red wire instead of black. Your black wire should be hooked to the overload as it connect to the “Common” (top) pin of the compressor.
The overload works more as a circuit breaker/fuse. If the compressor starts drawing too much current, it’ll heat up which cause the overload to trip and cut power. The excess current draw can be caused by a compressor that has developed an internal short or is starting to seize up due to wear, low oil, loss of refrigerant, etc.
My mini fridge runs then after awhile few hours trips my gfi and stop running. Would changing these 2 parts help?
Doubtful. I suspect that the compressor is failing. After it runs for a while and heats up, it may develop a short internally that is causing the GFI to trip.
I have a question, I replaced both the overload and start relays, and my wine chiller s still doing the same thing, the compressor turns on, then clicks off after a moment, I filed down the female connections a bit but that didn’t help, any suggestions would be much appreciated.
@@alvaromontoya7529 did the original relay and overload test bad? The problem may be with the compressor itself. It may be starting to seize up, which causes it to draw more current which trips the overload. You can buy a “hard start kit” (affiliate link: amzn.to/3NJDpXk) which replaces the start relay with a big capacitor that gives the compressor a little boost to get going. These can get some extra life out of a unit, but the expected life is unknown. It could last for a year or more or it may stop working after a couple days. It’s cheap enough to give it a shot.
It looks like the freezer I was given has been damaged. Not cooling. There are marks on the inside of the freezer part that looks like someone took a knife or tool to it. Can the freezer be replaced or should I just buy a new one?
You probably have a leak in your line. You will likely need it professionally repaired, had a similar situation with my mini fridge!
Hi Dustin can you help me, my relay has 6 flat prongs not just one like in this video, I’m not sure which color wire goes where, there’s a purple, 2 black, blue, white
There’s two silver prongs together on the top right side of the relay and one silver prong on the top left side
There’s two golden prongs on the bottom left and one silver prong on the bottom right
I tried measuring the ohms of the power cord prongs but it just stayed on ‘1’ no matter what
I have the same issue as you.
Did you get things figured out on yours? I hate to buy parts that I end up not needing
@@davethomas3553 no I’m sorry :/
Thanks, but do I need to change 2 parts or just one ?
Typically just the relay is defective
I have a magic chef 3.9 cubic mini fridge. I replaced both parts and it's still not getting cold. The compressor gets very very hot and keeps running. I'm assuming it's out of refrigerant or there's a leak somewhere in the line. Sounds like it would cost too much to put refrigerant in it. Darn. The refrigerator was working fine and then things starting cooling down. It looks brand new. These are about $180 new now!?
If you have the tools to do it, here’s how it can be recharged. ua-cam.com/video/t7JtlXzaCpw/v-deo.html
Mine don't make a sound. But when I put the leads together it show 20. Is that ok
What setting is your meter on?
The one in the vid
@@nativendn7382 without seeing your meter, I can’t say for certain, but I would guess that the 20 is the amount of ohms it’s measuring. Is there any symbols displayed on the meter screen? Like an upside down horseshoe (ohm symbol)? If your meter reads 20 ohms with the leads touching, that seems excessive. Is there a decimal point in front of the 2? Because 0.20 ohms would make more sense. Can you set your meter to ohms setting and touch the leads together? Does it give the same reading?
63759 for the meter and the meter has the arrow with a line
@@nativendn7382 you’ve got it set on the diode check setting (arrow with the line). Turn it one click to the left so it’s on the ‘200’ setting. That’s the setting for measuring Ohms (up to 200 ohms). With the dial on that setting, when you touch your leads together, what does the screen show? Make sure you’re not touching the metal part of your leads, as that could affect the reading.
How do you fix a mini fridge that keeps freeze everything?
Check the thermostat. If it’s turned to a warm-ish setting and still freezing things, I’d suspect a faulty thermostat that is unable to regulate temperature properly.
Thanks
my Avanti mini fridge has a start relay that has the letters "PTH 490C then -AS 6R8 then what looks like the letter M inside the letter C then 5DN66A. when testing it, it reads 7.7 ohms. I cant find a replacement part for it. Any thoughts?
I couldn’t find that particular part number, but I did find the data sheet for it. www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/pth490/-2042694835020093711/
Looks like is supposed to be a 3.3 ohm, but the one I have linked in the description should work
@@DustinRogersinMO thanks. I'll give a try
do you think it matters that the spade connector on the relay is on the bottom and there is no overload protection?
@@williamregan316 on the bottom of what?
@@williamregan316 and I’d guess there’s an overload, maybe just a different style than what I had on mine.
Also the relay has 3 connectors on it... not one idk if that means it's a new model or what but yeah it's busted
Some brands of fridges use a start capacitor or a run capacitor or both which require more connectors. If your relay is busted, just order one with the correct number of connectors and hook the wires back to the same positions they were in originally and you should be good to go. There’s links to three different styles in the description
Great video, fixed mine. But now I can't get that stupid plastic cover back on.
Did you ever get the cover back on ? I have the same issue . Does it need to be on ?
@@paullewis7813 Yeah I got it on, it just took some maneuvering. It's a little bit of a puzzle as I remember, gotta have it turned the right way, then it seems like "...
duh."
Ur the best
13:50 roll those disks out, don't use pliers or it will damage the disks
Nothing better than fixing it for free 99
Excellent info in your video. Someone gave me a 3.1 cu ft. Galanz mini frig with a freezer on top. Both "chill" but do not get cold enough even on the coldest setting. The person said they thought their kids left the door open on the refrig that was kept outside on a porch, and they it would not cool properly. Do you think the problem might be the thermostat? If so, any idea how I would test that? Thank you so much!
I’d check to see how long the compressor runs. If the compressor runs non stop and never shuts off, it’s likely low on refrigerant and can’t get it any cooler. If the compressor runs for a bit (5 minutes - 1 hour) and then shuts off, and the internal fridge temp is only “cool”, then it seems like the thermostat is signaling that the desired temp has been reached and to “stop cooling”, which would be a thermostat issue.
@@DustinRogersinMO it's running nonstop. This probably sounds like a silly question, but how can I get refrigerant for it? Will an appliance shop be able to help me?
@@kycatrescue7305 search for the channel called sixtyfiveford. I think he’s got an older video showing how to recharge a fridge, but unless you find and fix the leak, it likely won’t let long.
@@DustinRogersinMO thank you so much for the advice and help. So appreciated!
@@kycatrescue7305 That's a deal breaker. The leak must be found & repaired & then a vacuum pulled before adding the correct amount of refrigerant. You'd need an HVAC guy & it would cost much more than just buying a new frig.
"I don't know the history of this unit". Well, I think I can figure it out. It was plugged in, left plugged in, and things were put in it. Same history every other fridge has except stickers were applied to the front. Interesting that an inherently flawed thermister is used. I wonder if its just cheaper or if they want that to fail before something more catastrophic.
Careful swapping to a 3 pin. I’m sure it’s all good in most cases but it definitely wasn’t in mine. I got a 3 pin relay to replace the broken “2 pin” in my galanz fridge. I swapped them over in the same locations and heard buzzing when I gave it power. Unplugged it and pulled it back apart. I took the cover off of each relay and came to find out that the 2 pin relay was actually a 1 pin relay with a dummy terminal in the #2 position. I guess just to give a spot to mount the 2 hot wires together, but they weren’t actually doing anything in the relay? So when I swapped it over like that on the 3 pin, it was shorting out. Yikes. I ended up taking the in tact disk out of the 3 pin and putting it in the original “2 pin” relay. Everything is working perfect now. Just a heads up to anyone who might come across this as well. I don’t know if it’s poor design from galanz, but definitely doesn’t seem the most safe lol
Does anyone else have trouble getting the cover back on after replacing the relay ?