Thank you! Years ahead of today’s media trash… Simple, explanatory, amazingly well filmed. Thank you kindly for taking the time! Think the puller should be pulling on the outter housing bush. No reference as such to this procedure in the Haynes.
Thank you Yes for the puller,but we couldn't have a flat and square location to seat it,so we cheated as much as possible without tearing up the bushing. I think they remove the rear end and press them out and in.
I've hesitated 3 times and decided to not do it but i regret.. It was 35 °C and i didn't know if i could install the bearing in the housing and then the bracket on the bushing quickly enough. So i didn't do it, and should have done it ,in two steps.
Caracas está de parabéns primeiro vídeo que eu vejo assim que vi ele todo sem adiantar nem um segundo tá de parabéns nós precisamos de ver oque acontece como vc fez os outros querem aparecer fazer os show . Vc deu um show com poucas ferramentas e bastante experiência parabéns felicidades e sucesso
I have a Renault kangoo van converted for wheelchair access. The rear suspension seems to have dropped? I think it might be those adjustment teeth have worn out because of the extra weight will check if the teeth have failed. Thanks for the vid.
I doubt the splines failed,or you wouldn't have suspension at all,all would be down to the ground. The torsions bars are maybe just worn out ,deformed by the extra weight after a long time.
Yes the chisel is crude, but it works so well :-D :-D. I had a problem getting to a clutch, A rotating nut and bolt on a bell housing flange, rusted together solid for life, One chisel and a lump hammer sheared the head clean off. Plenty more 1/2 inch or 13mm nuts and bolts in the shed, ready to be used :-D. That looked like a pain to do, gravity wanted everything, it always does. Putting the arm back on looks so easy NOT!! lol, bloody pain!!. Nice little tune on the file :-D. Puss looked a bit ill :-(, and later it learned to climb legs, just wait untill you wear shorts, Oooow very painfull ha ha :-D. Doggy just wants to have fun.
I think the 13 nuts and bolts should be cited in the constitution lol They are essential. Yes it was a real pain in the bum bum, i did it in two times , and way too much hours each time... It was very hot,i've edited all the times where i dropped a tool,the bushing went down its housing at least 6 times while it was cleaned and greased lol Yes she had worms,coryza, and was brought by her mom to my brother's co worker's house,who give "wilds" cats food regularly. She is way better now,you can rub her belly, sleeps on us,and she is quite clever,when you have shorts,she jumps directly above the knee to avoid the hairy legs lol She is really nice : ) She is cool with the dogs and they all have a treat at the same time,and everybody is cool and happy together : ) She also took a steak and backed up from my plate like a forklift yesterday lol I got it back,but no without giving her a percentage ha ha ha !!!
What a smart cat, some cats just don't give a dam with there claws. Sounds like your frend is a "god send" for cats or perhaps i should say a "Cod Send" lol ;-D Ok it's a bit of a fishy joke, sorry lol.
Great video, my 2002 Scénic is starting to make strange noises from the rear when reversing or quickly turning left. Nice to see how the rear axle is assembled :)
Hello good sir, I was wondering what the reason was for replacing the bushings? On my Kangoo of the same model, one of the rear wheels is suddenly lowered to the point the rim is almost in line with the arch... Could this be the fix ?
Hello, You problem is more a bearing problem on the suspension arms. The arm where the whell attach is rotating a a set of bearings, and when they are worn out,the top of the wheel goes inwards,towards the body. When you look at the car from the rear,you should see the wheel tilted. It's a common problem on Peugeot /citroen vehicles and it's not the bushings linking the rear end to the body,but the bearings in the rear end themselves. You can replace the bearings,or get the rear end replaced entirely. Look at youtube,there are plenty of videos on rear end bearings on PSA vehicles,so you can see the problem.
Hello Michael, First of all, thank you for such a detailed video! Would you be kind enough to explain something? For the final step, starting with minute 13:00, is there any measurement or any way that you took into account the position of the metal arm that gets pressed onto the new bushing? I haven't done this operation on my car yet, and to my understanding, the angle at which you press the arm at this step will determine the height of the vehicle, since the bushing is immobile by its nature. Is my assumption correct? What's more important is that, I believe that if you do not respect the angle of mount of this arm, the new bushing might even break, right?
Hi, Thanks. The springs (wich are the bars i slide ) determine the ride height,by preloading them,by rotating them in their housing,wich is the arm at one extremity. The bushing should be installed with an angle corresponding to what you find when the vehicle is on its wheels ,not moving ,empty. This way,the bushing is only stressed ,and flexing, when suspensions are working,going up and down. It allows to eliminate useless flexing of the bushing the rest of the time. The bushing will not determine the ride height 100% since the springs are supporting the weight,the bushings being traversed by the spring,and not attached to it. However,yes,they also create some resistance to the arm movement,since the arm are pivoting thanks to the bushing ability to flex. They participate to absorbing energy,but not flexion resistant enough to determinate the ride height. If you instal the bushings with a crazy angle compared to what it should be when the car is supporting its own weight,yes, they will wear ,or simply tear apart quite quickly. I installed them by eye,here,wich was good enough. I marked the springs location however,to be sure i had the same ride height,same spring preload on both sides.
That sounds just about right. Thank you! One more thing please. How is the preloading done? I suppose you insert one end of the torsion bar in the middle housing (which is the fix/immobile one), but what about the end which has to be inserted through the new bushing, inside the arm? Do you rotate it by force?
@@Wholistic1 At one extremity both springs meet,in a splined housing 1:34 At the other extremity of each spring ,they are also inserted in the arm,wich have also splines. The springs have nearly zero preload on them when the rear end is off the ground,shocks absorbers disconnected like here. That's why you can install tem by hand ,or just by rotating the arm slightly with a hydraulic jack few degrees to slide the bar easily ,with no force required. The springs go through the bushings,and are not connected to them at all.they just slide through. The springs preload start when you jack up the rear end to re-attach it to the shocks. You could also just lower the car and attach the shocks after,but you wouldn't have enough room to work easily. Exactly like on front struts with helicoidal springs, there is nearly zero preload on the strut once assembled. It's really minimum.
Ok Michael, I understand now. What I plan to do is, before the final step (13:00), I want to insert the torsion bar into the middle splines, and start pressing the metal arm directly onto the torsion bar, in the right position (by previously made markings). By doing this I will basically press the metal arm onto the bushing and also have it connected onto the torsion bar at the same time. I think that it would be more accurate, since it's not made by eye. Do you think that this would be a good approach?
@@Wholistic1 It would be very tricky to press both the arm,and the bar , to align them perfectly so it slides in the central housing where both springs meet. Like i said,the bushing is not attached at all to the bar,so both can be separately installed. If you want accuracy,i suggest you to focus on pressing the bushing ,and the arm on the bushing with the correct angle. If the angle is correct, the bar will just slide in and align itself with no effort at all. I did it by eye,and i was very close. If you did it with measurments it will slide in. Trying to install both will force you to check the (heavy) bar alignement and angle constantly. I f i had to do it again i would heat up the rear end,insert a frozen bushing,then slide in instantly a hot arm on the still cold bushing. And i would measure and mark parts location. Make your own experience,like i did,so you can learn by yourself. Or listen to advices,wich is not really fun,but can be useful. : ) You have both sides,you can do also both lol
Кто подскажет как правельно запресовать салинблоки ? На опущенной машине поставить метки или же на длину стойки пресовать салинблоки . Как правильно подскажите
Greatings, on my Clio mk1 ph3 '98 i have clunk noise only on the right side of torsion bar, no matter how big is bump or hole. Is that a problem with bushing on arm or something else is broken?
Hi, on the rear end ? It can be a bushing on a shock absorber end,it can be the bearing on the axle arm itself,but yo would see important camber on the wheel. The best would be to lift the wheel and shake all that with a lever to see where it comes from.
Hello, Yes rotate the bar so the height between the wheel axis and the body is reduced. It's quite simple on this system,but do it by steps to be sure you get the correct tune.
You need to have clean parts,and to be sure they are smooth to slide in each other. If you can't do by hand,don't hesitate to use a puller or a bearing installation tool. All you can see is what i did here,i didn't cheat off camera. Maybe your set up has different machining tolerances ?
Sur quelle pièce ? On a rien bousillé, mise à part la peinture,pourtant ça a l'air peu délicat comme travail,en effet. Pour presser quoi que ce soit avec la presse,il faut démonter le train arrière au complet et l'amener sur la presse,ce que je souhaite éviter à ce moment là. Il faut re-purger les freins,réinstaller le câble et durites de frein,et démonter les garnitures des tambours. ça fait trop pour des silent bloc,n'étant même pas sur de pouvoir installer l'essieu sur la presser,vu sa forme et taille.
@@jaggass There are nearly 200 000 on it. I use it everydays to go to work. It needs some front tires,it starts to get sketchy under the rain,and it should snow soon lol
We have already had a bit of snow here in the UK. Overall the underneath of the R21 looks in good condition and the bodywork isn't bad either. Do you live in a sunnier and drier part of France?
@@jaggass No,it's a "continental weather" with standard seasons.her e next to Lyon. But the car lived 2/3 of its life in the South of France,where it's quite sunny and no really wet in winter,with no salt used on the roads. The hood have a dent in it,it happened 3 years ago on the freeway,i took a ratchet strap i think, from the other side of the freeway. I think it was a truck wich lost it. I just know it was a big orange object wich went straight in my face and the whole car squatted a bit on the impact. No dings except that,but some paint polish would make it shine.
@@michaelovitch Thank you very much for your kind reply Mr. Michaelovitch. Some how I could recognize the very unique rear suspension design. I can sleep now finally. Please stay safe and healthy sir!
The car passed inspection with zero problems. But the bushings were torn apart ,like you saw,so i bought new ones,and replaced them. Instead of messing around by removing the cables,disconnecting the brake lines ,i just dropped a bit the rear end and replaced the bushings "in situ" The difficulty was to press the new ones,as you saw,and without a press ,you do that by hand. Being able to freeze the bushings would have helped me a lot,they would have shrinked a bit,and been way easier to insert. The rest is pure manual labor,unless you need an explanation for a specific task ?
Да понятно что ручная работа,но сильно уж колхозный вариант,и это вам говорит Русский который тоже делает рукам,но не на столько ж примитивно,а в особенности за пресовка сайленблока!!!
Понятно что без зубила не обойтись,но от того как вы за пресуете сайленблок,так он и будет работать,( как долго).но всё равно приятно что есть люди у которых руки не из жопы и умеют делать сложную работу! Удачи вам
@@sherhansherhan4084 Thank you The tool for pressing bushings wasn't really helpful,so i did the work by hand. It would have been useful to freeze the bushing,so its steel perimeter would have slided in more easily. But i' ve hesitated too much ,and thought i wouldn't have time to do it without the bushing to heat up very quickly. It was something like 35 °C this day...
This man is a legend doing this on the floor with limited tools and great video no nonsense
Thanks.
Thank you! Years ahead of today’s media trash…
Simple, explanatory, amazingly well filmed.
Thank you kindly for taking the time! Think the puller should be pulling on the outter housing bush.
No reference as such to this procedure in the Haynes.
Thank you
Yes for the puller,but we couldn't have a flat and square location to seat it,so we cheated as much as possible without tearing up the bushing.
I think they remove the rear end and press them out and in.
Svaka čast, meni isto otišlo to na torziji,na Reno Kangoo,niko neće da mi reparira, moram novu da kupim,svaka čast...
Merci,bon travail : )
Хороший ролик, инженеры Рено были бы в восторге от такого ремонта! 👍 Однозначно Лай, когда для ремонта есть только Молоток да зубило💪
Is it irony ?
If not,yes,it's a good car to maintain : )
Put the bushing in the freezer for 24 hrs. and you can mount it almost by hand.
I've hesitated 3 times and decided to not do it but i regret..
It was 35 °C and i didn't know if i could install the bearing in the housing and then the bracket on the bushing quickly enough.
So i didn't do it, and should have done it ,in two steps.
Do not forget to do it for the other side :-;) and you might heat up the arm and housing up to 200 C.
I did both sides ,and my regrets started between both lol
Hello! Could you help me with the article number, based on which I can find the bridge fixing screw?
Hello,
What's your car,what do you want to replace ?
@@michaelovitch Hello! Renault Megane 2002 bridge replacement, you need the article number of the bridge fixing screw and nut.
@@sanya.0007 Go directly at Renault dealership with the VIN number of the car,they will get you that.
I don't have the Renault spare parts software.
@@michaelovitch Ok thank you.
The dog was impress by your invention , good job
Thank you : )
Caracas está de parabéns primeiro vídeo que eu vejo assim que vi ele todo sem adiantar nem um segundo tá de parabéns nós precisamos de ver oque acontece como vc fez os outros querem aparecer fazer os show . Vc deu um show com poucas ferramentas e bastante experiência parabéns felicidades e sucesso
Thank you very much : )
I have a Renault kangoo van converted for wheelchair access.
The rear suspension seems to have dropped? I think it might be those adjustment teeth have worn out because of the extra weight will check if the teeth have failed. Thanks for the vid.
I doubt the splines failed,or you wouldn't have suspension at all,all would be down to the ground.
The torsions bars are maybe just worn out ,deformed by the extra weight after a long time.
Yes the chisel is crude, but it works so well :-D :-D.
I had a problem getting to a clutch, A rotating nut and bolt on a bell housing flange, rusted together solid for life, One chisel and a lump hammer sheared the head clean off.
Plenty more 1/2 inch or 13mm nuts and bolts in the shed, ready to be used :-D.
That looked like a pain to do, gravity wanted everything, it always does.
Putting the arm back on looks so easy NOT!! lol, bloody pain!!.
Nice little tune on the file :-D.
Puss looked a bit ill :-(, and later it learned to climb legs, just wait untill you wear shorts, Oooow very painfull ha ha :-D.
Doggy just wants to have fun.
I think the 13 nuts and bolts should be cited in the constitution lol
They are essential.
Yes it was a real pain in the bum bum, i did it in two times , and way too much hours each time...
It was very hot,i've edited all the times where i dropped a tool,the bushing went down its housing at least 6 times while it was cleaned and greased lol
Yes she had worms,coryza, and was brought by her mom to my brother's co worker's house,who give "wilds" cats food regularly.
She is way better now,you can rub her belly, sleeps on us,and she is quite clever,when you have shorts,she jumps directly above the knee to avoid the hairy legs lol
She is really nice : )
She is cool with the dogs and they all have a treat at the same time,and everybody is cool and happy together : )
She also took a steak and backed up from my plate like a forklift yesterday lol
I got it back,but no without giving her a percentage ha ha ha !!!
What a smart cat, some cats just don't give a dam with there claws.
Sounds like your frend is a "god send" for cats or perhaps i should say a "Cod Send" lol ;-D
Ok it's a bit of a fishy joke, sorry lol.
lol
Great video, my 2002 Scénic is starting to make strange noises from the rear when reversing or quickly turning left. Nice to see how the rear axle is assembled :)
Thanks : )
Hello good sir, I was wondering what the reason was for replacing the bushings? On my Kangoo of the same model, one of the rear wheels is suddenly lowered to the point the rim is almost in line with the arch... Could this be the fix ?
Hello,
You problem is more a bearing problem on the suspension arms.
The arm where the whell attach is rotating a a set of bearings, and when they are worn out,the top of the wheel goes inwards,towards the body.
When you look at the car from the rear,you should see the wheel tilted.
It's a common problem on Peugeot /citroen vehicles and it's not the bushings linking the rear end to the body,but the bearings in the rear end themselves.
You can replace the bearings,or get the rear end replaced entirely.
Look at youtube,there are plenty of videos on rear end bearings on PSA vehicles,so you can see the problem.
Wrong model for me, but saw a comment about a cat. So jumped to that part instead ❤❤
: )
Hello Michael,
First of all, thank you for such a detailed video! Would you be kind enough to explain something? For the final step, starting with minute 13:00, is there any measurement or any way that you took into account the position of the metal arm that gets pressed onto the new bushing? I haven't done this operation on my car yet, and to my understanding, the angle at which you press the arm at this step will determine the height of the vehicle, since the bushing is immobile by its nature. Is my assumption correct?
What's more important is that, I believe that if you do not respect the angle of mount of this arm, the new bushing might even break, right?
Hi,
Thanks.
The springs (wich are the bars i slide ) determine the ride height,by preloading them,by rotating them in their housing,wich is the arm at one extremity.
The bushing should be installed with an angle corresponding to what you find when the vehicle is on its wheels ,not moving ,empty.
This way,the bushing is only stressed ,and flexing, when suspensions are working,going up and down.
It allows to eliminate useless flexing of the bushing the rest of the time.
The bushing will not determine the ride height 100% since the springs are supporting the weight,the bushings being traversed by the spring,and not attached to it.
However,yes,they also create some resistance to the arm movement,since the arm are pivoting thanks to the bushing ability to flex.
They participate to absorbing energy,but not flexion resistant enough to determinate the ride height.
If you instal the bushings with a crazy angle compared to what it should be when the car is supporting its own weight,yes, they will wear ,or simply tear apart quite quickly.
I installed them by eye,here,wich was good enough.
I marked the springs location however,to be sure i had the same ride height,same spring preload on both sides.
That sounds just about right. Thank you!
One more thing please. How is the preloading done? I suppose you insert one end of the torsion bar in the middle housing (which is the fix/immobile one), but what about the end which has to be inserted through the new bushing, inside the arm? Do you rotate it by force?
@@Wholistic1 At one extremity both springs meet,in a splined housing 1:34
At the other extremity of each spring ,they are also inserted in the arm,wich have also splines.
The springs have nearly zero preload on them when the rear end is off the ground,shocks absorbers disconnected like here.
That's why you can install tem by hand ,or just by rotating the arm slightly with a hydraulic jack few degrees to slide the bar easily ,with no force required.
The springs go through the bushings,and are not connected to them at all.they just slide through.
The springs preload start when you jack up the rear end to re-attach it to the shocks.
You could also just lower the car and attach the shocks after,but you wouldn't have enough room to work easily.
Exactly like on front struts with helicoidal springs, there is nearly zero preload on the strut once assembled.
It's really minimum.
Ok Michael, I understand now. What I plan to do is, before the final step (13:00), I want to insert the torsion bar into the middle splines, and start pressing the metal arm directly onto the torsion bar, in the right position (by previously made markings). By doing this I will basically press the metal arm onto the bushing and also have it connected onto the torsion bar at the same time. I think that it would be more accurate, since it's not made by eye. Do you think that this would be a good approach?
@@Wholistic1
It would be very tricky to press both the arm,and the bar , to align them perfectly so it slides in the central housing where both springs meet.
Like i said,the bushing is not attached at all to the bar,so both can be separately installed.
If you want accuracy,i suggest you to focus on pressing the bushing ,and the arm on the bushing with the correct angle.
If the angle is correct, the bar will just slide in and align itself with no effort at all.
I did it by eye,and i was very close.
If you did it with measurments it will slide in.
Trying to install both will force you to check the (heavy) bar alignement and angle constantly.
I f i had to do it again i would heat up the rear end,insert a frozen bushing,then slide in instantly a hot arm on the still cold bushing.
And i would measure and mark parts location.
Make your own experience,like i did,so you can learn by yourself.
Or listen to advices,wich is not really fun,but can be useful.
: )
You have both sides,you can do also both lol
Кто подскажет как правельно запресовать салинблоки ? На опущенной машине поставить метки или же на длину стойки пресовать салинблоки . Как правильно подскажите
The rubber bushings ? Copy what was made previously.
The have a direction and orientation.
What vehicle is it ?
Greatings, on my Clio mk1 ph3 '98 i have clunk noise only on the right side of torsion bar, no matter how big is bump or hole. Is that a problem with bushing on arm or something else is broken?
Hi,
on the rear end ?
It can be a bushing on a shock absorber end,it can be the bearing on the axle arm itself,but yo would see important camber on the wheel.
The best would be to lift the wheel and shake all that with a lever to see where it comes from.
Gracias máquina, saludos 😉👍🏻
: ) Saludos !
Salut c est super la vidéo c est tu bon boulot un gros pouce bleu
Merci : )
thumbs up for the beloved dog
: )
Hello, how to lower suspension, do i need just rotate bar to left or right or something else?
Hello,
Yes rotate the bar so the height between the wheel axis and the body is reduced.
It's quite simple on this system,but do it by steps to be sure you get the correct tune.
Slt svp les dimensions de la barre de torsion scenic gauche
Enjoy you videos very much.
: )
Bravo c'est du bon boulot.
Merci !
Doesn't show the ending of fitting the bar , goes to his cat , wtf 😂
nice wagon volvo in the back.
: )
lol when I saw working with three hands. Also what is this car?
It's a Renault 21 GTS from 1990 : )
@@michaelovitch Nice car. My renault megane mk1 needs repair and this video will be helpful, thanks.
@@liljustas4575 : )
Happy if it helps : )
3:13 Safety inspector
Lol
She get sure i don't loose a limb so i still give her some treats.
I can't fool her lol
Как у вас всех так легко получается ? Я кувалдой выбить не могу ... ВДэшкой уже неделю замачиваю и не получается выбить , а то сьемником ...
You need to have clean parts,and to be sure they are smooth to slide in each other.
If you can't do by hand,don't hesitate to use a puller or a bearing installation tool.
All you can see is what i did here,i didn't cheat off camera.
Maybe your set up has different machining tolerances ?
Saludos aca del México
: ) Salut de France !
Nice cat! 👍
: ) She will be happy to hear that lol
Du fait que tu avais des moyens .pour quoi ne pas utiliser la presse hydraulique sur la première pièce, que vous avez sûrement bousillée
Sur quelle pièce ?
On a rien bousillé, mise à part la peinture,pourtant ça a l'air peu délicat comme travail,en effet.
Pour presser quoi que ce soit avec la presse,il faut démonter le train arrière au complet et l'amener sur la presse,ce que je souhaite éviter à ce moment là.
Il faut re-purger les freins,réinstaller le câble et durites de frein,et démonter les garnitures des tambours.
ça fait trop pour des silent bloc,n'étant même pas sur de pouvoir installer l'essieu sur la presser,vu sa forme et taille.
Is that the R21
Yes,good eye.
The volvo is a propulsion,you would have a differential here at the rear.
@@michaelovitch Does the R21 do alot of km's?
@@jaggass
There are nearly 200 000 on it.
I use it everydays to go to work.
It needs some front tires,it starts to get sketchy under the rain,and it should snow soon lol
We have already had a bit of snow here in the UK. Overall the underneath of the R21 looks in good condition and the bodywork isn't bad either. Do you live in a sunnier and drier part of France?
@@jaggass
No,it's a "continental weather" with standard seasons.her e next to Lyon.
But the car lived 2/3 of its life in the South of France,where it's quite sunny and no really wet in winter,with no salt used on the roads.
The hood have a dent in it,it happened 3 years ago on the freeway,i took a ratchet strap i think, from the other side of the freeway.
I think it was a truck wich lost it.
I just know it was a big orange object wich went straight in my face and the whole car squatted a bit on the impact.
No dings except that,but some paint polish would make it shine.
Лайк за котето❤
: )
põe um antigripante ou óleo spray pra facilitar
Спасибо за инструкцию 🎉
: )
Is it a French car?
Yes,
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renault_21
@@michaelovitch Thank you very much for your kind reply Mr. Michaelovitch. Some how I could recognize the very unique rear suspension design. I can sleep now finally. Please stay safe and healthy sir!
les outils sont devant vous pourquoi monter le silynbloc avec un marteau . bravo quan même.
Merci.
L'outil était prêt à casser,c'était vraiment difficile de monter l'ensemble avec.
I've done this once on my dads clio.... . This is the stupid rear end suspension everrr. The bushes getting broken allready when its been replaced.
The good thing is that it reduces a lot the road and bearings rolling noise.
Попробуйте это сделать когда машине 15-20лет вот это будет интересно!?
With a new car ?
сегодня так делал, машина 2003 года
En vez de golpear no es mas facil colocar una arandela plana mas grande y colocar a presion!
It was very difficult to insert it with impacts,and i think i would have broken the pressing tool if i had una arandela mas grande.
A little explanation would have been nice
The car passed inspection with zero problems.
But the bushings were torn apart ,like you saw,so i bought new ones,and replaced them.
Instead of messing around by removing the cables,disconnecting the brake lines ,i just dropped a bit the rear end and replaced the bushings "in situ"
The difficulty was to press the new ones,as you saw,and without a press ,you do that by hand.
Being able to freeze the bushings would have helped me a lot,they would have shrinked a bit,and been way easier to insert.
The rest is pure manual labor,unless you need an explanation for a specific task ?
Bidakine ısıt sonra tak, yuvayı ısıt, karşısına kuru buz koy, tak diye geçer.
Yes,but i have not the equipment to heat up correctly.
BRAVOOOOOOO
: ) Merci !
Увлекательно. Интереснее смотреть чем за сексом. Как не надо делать. Но! Улыбнуло.
I think i don't understand.
Михалыч, смешно =)) Я когда увидел отвертку и молоток вспомнил, как мой сосед у меня однажды попросил "ответку по металлу"
Dios le da herramientas a quien no las sabe usar 😂😂😂😂
Hammer dont want to work
Hahahahaha !
La moitié du travail
Used the puller all wrong
Видео о том, как я изнасиловал сайлентблок!😀
I don't understand,i can't translate correctly.
Express no
Hhhhhh
😂😂😂 🐶 🥎
: )
Тихий ужас
It's just manual work.
Horror would be to let the damaged bushing in the car and act like if everything was ok.
Да понятно что ручная работа,но сильно уж колхозный вариант,и это вам говорит Русский который тоже делает рукам,но не на столько ж примитивно,а в особенности за пресовка сайленблока!!!
Понятно что без зубила не обойтись,но от того как вы за пресуете сайленблок,так он и будет работать,( как долго).но всё равно приятно что есть люди у которых руки не из жопы и умеют делать сложную работу! Удачи вам
@@sherhansherhan4084
Thank you
The tool for pressing bushings wasn't really helpful,so i did the work by hand.
It would have been useful to freeze the bushing,so its steel perimeter would have slided in more easily.
But i' ve hesitated too much ,and thought i wouldn't have time to do it without the bushing to heat up very quickly.
It was something like 35 °C this day...
Или я не понимаю нихера или он инструментом пользоваться не может
🤣🤣🤣✌
Very worst repair. No neatness