REPORTED !!! Have a good weekend Guys! Had one on the bench a couple years ago going into protection on power up. Following hours and hours of soul searching it turned out to be a faulty 7805 for the I-pod dock supply. That missing voltage was enough to upset the micro and take the whole thing out.
One thing I have really learned from your excellent channel is the approach to cleaning controls (pots, faders, etc). I suspect if you did a video solely on "how to clean vintage pots and faders" it would get a tremendous number of views/likes.
This is apparently a very common problem on Yamaha A/V units of that era. The story goes that they used a low quality/ inappropriate lubricant that broke down way too fast, which is plausible but I can't say one way or the other. I did the equivalent repair on my RX-V800 and otherwise it's given me around 20 years of good service. In my experience, Yamaha tend to be solid quality and very reliable in about every product line. Much respect to them. Thanks for the vid.
Yeah, it's a temporary fix. You don't need the kit. Just disassemble and clean all the rubber pads and their corresponding pad on the circuit board with alcohol, 99% IPA works. This alone will buy you another month of use. The oils from your skin absorb into the silicone rubber buttons and works it way through to the contacts. The layer of oil is why it stops working. This reminds me, the wife's been nagging me to fix the remote again
@@TrevorsBench I appreciate the suggestion, but I happened upon this video for another reason. I just went to fire up the Yamaha HTR 6150 and it turns on and then off. When I press the “audio select”, “straight” and “main zone” buttons together I get a “prv prt 36”message 🙄. Debating if it’s worth it to have it fixed or try to figure it out myself
1 Hour before seeing this video i repaired the exact same error (rotary encoder gllitches) on a Qnkyo reciever! 😀 It was even the same version encoder!
Personally I can say that nothing Yamaha has ever let me down. Not yet anyway. I have a full set of studio monitors. I have guitars. I have keyboards. Nothing has given up the ghost. Trusted brand to me.
As you all know this is a very common problem. Trevor said it, almost all usage is thru the remote so the encoders are not built to last. Seems just as often the control logic circuits fail. There are so many compromises in these things that make them almost unrepeatable. The amps themselves tend to be good but because of the multi-channel decoding there is the analog inputs are AD converted to control tone, volume, and effects and then DA back again to all to the amps. Friends bring these to me to see what I can do but they are major, major time suckers. Far to easy to trash it and buy new with all new decoding features. Same-O, Same-O.
The bad thing about this is not that it does not work that well, the bad thing is that it will automatically go to the lowest or highest volume which is very disturbing. Same problem in HK 970, I could not clean my switch, it still did the same thing, but I replaced it now. Not sure why but those cannot or should not be cleaned, it will not really change anything from the function standpoint. You play a bit and it comes back as it was before, even without touching it, without doing anything, just sit there and it goes crazy, sadly. It is maybe a bit different to mine, it works on AVR or 3490, but not on the 970. Seems to be a very similar switch, not sure why you say there is many parts inside? There is one case, one board, one knob (the black thing), one contact pad and one spring for the clicky feel (probably optional). Dont see many parts there, but anyway, maybe you feel like it is too much or something. It is basically the most basic switch with the minimum parts possible.
There could be other reasons at play there besides a dirty switch. From what you described, there may be noise on the rotary encoder lines that is tripping the attenuator circuits to go high or low. A bad or missing ground maybe? A poke around with a scope will show any noise on these lines.
@TrevorsBench I used to have that same problem on a HK AVR45, I always blamed it on my old house being haunted lol, to this day who knows, maybe it was a bad rotary encoder, maybe it was a noisy signal, maybe it was a ghost lol
Yes Trevor................AVR are Junk Too much going on with the inside of those things, just means more problems. However, enjoyed the rebuild of that mini volume pot.
I find the AV receivers are not built for easy servicing. They can be huge time vampires if you need to troubleshoot something simple like a dead power supply voltage. Basically, the whole thing needs to be disassembled before you can determine what's wrong and testing under it's own power can sometimes be impossible.
Reported for abuse…video is too short!
Happy weekend to you, Trevor!
REPORTED !!! Have a good weekend Guys!
Had one on the bench a couple years ago going into protection on power up. Following hours and hours of soul searching it turned out to be a faulty 7805 for the I-pod dock supply. That missing voltage was enough to upset the micro and take the whole thing out.
One thing I have really learned from your excellent channel is the approach to cleaning controls (pots, faders, etc). I suspect if you did a video solely on "how to clean vintage pots and faders" it would get a tremendous number of views/likes.
This is apparently a very common problem on Yamaha A/V units of that era. The story goes that they used a low quality/ inappropriate lubricant that broke down way too fast, which is plausible but I can't say one way or the other. I did the equivalent repair on my RX-V800 and otherwise it's given me around 20 years of good service. In my experience, Yamaha tend to be solid quality and very reliable in about every product line. Much respect to them. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you for your time on this repair; so much going on inside A/V receivers, it is a wonder there isn't more heat damage.
I had problems with the remote for mine. Bought a remote rebuild kit, replacing the rubber pads inside. It worked!!!! For about a month 😢
Yeah, it's a temporary fix. You don't need the kit. Just disassemble and clean all the rubber pads and their corresponding pad on the circuit board with alcohol, 99% IPA works.
This alone will buy you another month of use.
The oils from your skin absorb into the silicone rubber buttons and works it way through to the contacts. The layer of oil is why it stops working.
This reminds me, the wife's been nagging me to fix the remote again
@@TrevorsBench I appreciate the suggestion, but I happened upon this video for another reason. I just went to fire up the Yamaha HTR 6150 and it turns on and then off. When I press the “audio select”, “straight” and “main zone” buttons together I get a “prv prt 36”message 🙄. Debating if it’s worth it to have it fixed or try to figure it out myself
@@TrevorsBench also, thanks for the tips and make sure you keep the wife happy 😉
1 Hour before seeing this video i repaired the exact same error (rotary encoder gllitches) on a Qnkyo reciever! 😀 It was even the same version encoder!
Personally I can say that nothing Yamaha has ever let me down. Not yet anyway. I have a full set of studio monitors. I have guitars. I have keyboards. Nothing has given up the ghost. Trusted brand to me.
As you all know this is a very common problem. Trevor said it, almost all usage is thru the remote so the encoders are not built to last. Seems just as often the control logic circuits fail. There are so many compromises in these things that make them almost unrepeatable. The amps themselves tend to be good but because of the multi-channel decoding there is the analog inputs are AD converted to control tone, volume, and effects and then DA back again to all to the amps. Friends bring these to me to see what I can do but they are major, major time suckers. Far to easy to trash it and buy new with all new decoding features. Same-O, Same-O.
good video ill watch it now
The bad thing about this is not that it does not work that well, the bad thing is that it will automatically go to the lowest or highest volume which is very disturbing. Same problem in HK 970, I could not clean my switch, it still did the same thing, but I replaced it now. Not sure why but those cannot or should not be cleaned, it will not really change anything from the function standpoint. You play a bit and it comes back as it was before, even without touching it, without doing anything, just sit there and it goes crazy, sadly. It is maybe a bit different to mine, it works on AVR or 3490, but not on the 970.
Seems to be a very similar switch, not sure why you say there is many parts inside? There is one case, one board, one knob (the black thing), one contact pad and one spring for the clicky feel (probably optional). Dont see many parts there, but anyway, maybe you feel like it is too much or something. It is basically the most basic switch with the minimum parts possible.
Do you have any information on the part you replaced? The proper name of the part, and where you purchased it? Thanks.
There could be other reasons at play there besides a dirty switch. From what you described, there may be noise on the rotary encoder lines that is tripping the attenuator circuits to go high or low. A bad or missing ground maybe? A poke around with a scope will show any noise on these lines.
@TrevorsBench I used to have that same problem on a HK AVR45, I always blamed it on my old house being haunted lol, to this day who knows, maybe it was a bad rotary encoder, maybe it was a noisy signal, maybe it was a ghost lol
I'm a tiny bit disappointed, the Video is way too short and Saturday night so long ;-) joke Nice Video!
These are time fillers, Next up the Rotel 1603 Monster Receiver Part 1
Yes Trevor................AVR are Junk Too much going on with the inside of those things, just means more problems. However, enjoyed the rebuild of that mini volume pot.
I find the AV receivers are not built for easy servicing. They can be huge time vampires if you need to troubleshoot something simple like a dead power supply voltage. Basically, the whole thing needs to be disassembled before you can determine what's wrong and testing under it's own power can sometimes be impossible.