As an old drummer … we’re in 6/8 here, right? I’m having trouble locking it in because it’s a short clip, and your drummer is playing some delicious-but-uncommon patterns back there. PS Yes, John - you really put a spell on all of us … and you still have us under your spell! 🎶 🎸
When our High School burned down in '68 the machine shop classmen hauled scrap metal from the school to the scrap yard to make money to go to the VICA convention that year. We were not allowed to take the 50lb sash weights, for the 4'x8' wooden windows, the rebuilding contractor wanted those. The 4'x8' windows, in the WWII era barracks I was in at Fort Ord in '70, were connected by rope not chain. Every now and then you would hear a rope break, and that 50lb weight would crash to the bottom of raceway. Had one of those windows fall on my hand, took 4 guys to get it off. - Nice setup on the counter weight.
I added a counter weight to my Buffalo 18 a couple weeks ago. Thought my idea was fairly original then saw Mr Pete upload his and found out this was commonly done. I should get out more I guess. Being able to easily move my 60# table with one hand is great and i highly recommend it. Great video as always.
Hats off to you and Mr. Pete, and whoever else did this little upgrade and a job well done. I'm thinking that if you needed to move the table with the vise and a fairly workpiece that a little more counter weight may be needed, don't know, but that weight will definitely be much better than none. Pretty slick.
Hello Randy, I just found this Video of yours today 13, Sep, 2018. Funny thing, I just did a similar thing to my Grandfathers drill press two weeks ago and used window sash weights as the counterweights too. I did not get all fancy like you did though, the weights are on the outside of the column. I decided it was too much work to drill a hole through the solid cast iron for almost six feet. lol. This is the second video in two days where one of UA-cams recommendations to me has had me commenting on a creators work in reference to Grandads gear. Yesterday it was Adam Booth talking about his Peter Wright Anvil and as I have my Grandfathers Peter Wright I just felt compelled to share the love. I am impressed with your parting effort as well as how well the whole job came together, Sweet. Cheers from John, Australia.
Sounds like Mr. Pete hit you with that "ark of the covenant" remark. Wow , that counterweight works really well, I could certainly live with a setup like that, bravo Randy and thanks to lyle.
Nice adaptation of Tubalcain's idea (and whoever else has done this over the years). Now if I just had a sash weight... Have good holidays and I look forward to the next episode. Thanks, Randy. Take care.
That was quite some parting job - impressive! That was one super effective project Randy - quite inspired even if similar in principle to Lyle's scheme. Major bonus on that long column.
Thank you and all those involved in the content, efforts and production of this channel. Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to all. May the new year bring you, your families and friends much health, wealth, happiness, safety, security, appreciation, respect and peace.
I've thought of doing the same but mine is a 60s Rockwell with a belt cover. I could do a clam just under the head using the same lash up that you used. I'll put that at the top of my some day projects. I couldn't stop laughing watching the episode of Bruce Witham's visit in Ray's garage working on the tailstock. Thank you I needed that
I have 1977 rockwell 14 inch I put one on the side with some 1/8 cable, a simple pully with an eye.I drilled and taped some holes for bolts into the cast iron. I made a 3 inch pvc container and put scrap into it till it balanced. Someday I will weigh the counter weight and cut some barstock to replace it. It has been 20 years.
Randy, great improvement and pretty simple to make with your inspiration. BTW - I would prefer parting the large diameter stainless steel with an ISCAR SGFH 26-3 parting blade using a GFL 3W - 4D type insert over using the HSS blade. I like the way the carbide insert chipformer with a central ridge makes the chips come out with very little resistance with a power feed when doing extra deep cuts. Still requires lots of cutting fluid to keep the groove wet.
Good video I like the cap you made I might give that style a try. This is a GREAT Idea I watched mrpetes video also. I got a really good deal on a Delta Rockwell adjustable speed the guy had three and he sold the first two for $350 but he thought the bearings were froze up and or motor because it was locked up tight so I got it for only $80 bucks!!! turns out the only thing wrong was the nut at the end of the spindle I NEVER have that kinda of luck!! Works great now Thanks for Posting two thumbs up my friend!!!
I have to chuckle every time mrpete says, "nobody will ever make one of these". Probably going to do that to my Buffalo when I get all the pieces for it together.
Very nice, Randy. Being an incessant fiddler, I was triggered when I saw you got the drill press stripped down that far, but didn't slip the table up and off to weigh it. and compare it to the sash weight. That's a remarkable sash weight, BT Dubs. Since they work in pairs, I imagine the window it used to help support was yuge.
I saw Mr Petes video and need to do the same to my Atlas drill table, it has the extra wide table with the oil gutter on it so it's really heavy. I've tried using a sisor jack to help raise it but it's not working too great. Thanks for the video Randy!
So I have an old Craftsman/King Seeley drill press that I bought for $75 and rebuilt. All I need now to do your project is a lathe, large diameter stock for the cap, a Bridgeport mill, a welder, and inevitably a full day of labor. ....or I could get a trailer jack at Harbor freight for $25.
If you ever need a sash weight or any of the hardware associated with the old style double hung windows, go to Blaine Window Hardware, located in New Jersey. They have just about any window hardware you couls ever need. Just a FYI!
I would like to add the counter weight but I have the speed reduction attachment on my drill press and it fits in the top of the column to add an extra pulley.
Randy Merry Xmas and thanks for another great video. Any chance of getting rough dimensions for that ingenious vice block that you used on the mill ? it looks really handy. Thanks Again
Do you think the counterweight solution would work effectively for a benchtop model or should a spring model be used? I imagine if the counterweight is too long, it wont raise the table high enough.
I think you may have a distance issue on a bench top press. Maybe a short large dia. weight may work. Or have the weight on the outside and a hole in the bench for the weight to pass.
@@RRINTHESHOP Thanks - Yep, the pole is about 36" long. I figure that each 3" of lead (2.25 in dia with a steel sleeve = 2.5") will get me 2 lbs which equates to 6.7lbs for 10" - may not have the distance or the weight? Not sure.
Next stage: Make a dual-weight counterbalance so that it works both with and without that heavy drill-press vise. Maybe a secondary weight that can be held at the top of the column with a pin. A center hole for the chain to pass through. Some thought would be needed to prevent it from being released unless it was supported by the main weight. (Maybe a headed pin in a keyhole slot in the weight. Can't be withdrawn unless the secondary weight is lifted by the primary.) Run the table to the bottom so that it lifts the secondary weight a bit; withdraw the pin; and now both weights counterbalance both table and vise.-- Designed as I typed. EDIT: The headed pin fits a face groove in the bottom of the secondary weight so that it works even if the secondary weight rotates. The top of the main weight needs to be relieved to give room for the head of the pin.
As an old drummer … we’re in 6/8 here, right? I’m having trouble locking it in because it’s a short clip, and your drummer is playing some delicious-but-uncommon patterns back there.
PS Yes, John - you really put a spell on all of us … and you still have us under your spell! 🎶 🎸
I fought with one of those drill press tables for years, never give this a thought. What a great idea, thanks Randy.
When our High School burned down in '68 the machine shop classmen hauled scrap metal from the school to the scrap yard to make money to go to the VICA convention that year. We were not allowed to take the 50lb sash weights, for the 4'x8' wooden windows, the rebuilding contractor wanted those. The 4'x8' windows, in the WWII era barracks I was in at Fort Ord in '70, were connected by rope not chain. Every now and then you would hear a rope break, and that 50lb weight would crash to the bottom of raceway. Had one of those windows fall on my hand, took 4 guys to get it off. - Nice setup on the counter weight.
I added a counter weight to my Buffalo 18 a couple weeks ago. Thought my idea was fairly original then saw Mr Pete upload his and found out this was commonly done. I should get out more I guess. Being able to easily move my 60# table with one hand is great and i highly recommend it. Great video as always.
Nice setup on the drill press table. Of course you always do good work.
Hats off to you and Mr. Pete, and whoever else did this little upgrade and a job well done. I'm thinking that if you needed to move the table with the vise and a fairly workpiece that a little more counter weight may be needed, don't know, but that weight will definitely be much better than none. Pretty slick.
Hello Randy, I just found this Video of yours today 13, Sep, 2018. Funny thing, I just did a similar thing to my Grandfathers drill press two weeks ago and used window sash weights as the counterweights too.
I did not get all fancy like you did though, the weights are on the outside of the column. I decided it was too much work to drill a hole through the solid cast iron for almost six feet. lol.
This is the second video in two days where one of UA-cams recommendations to me has had me commenting on a creators work in reference to Grandads gear. Yesterday it was Adam Booth talking about his Peter Wright Anvil and as I have my Grandfathers Peter Wright I just felt compelled to share the love.
I am impressed with your parting effort as well as how well the whole job came together, Sweet.
Cheers from John, Australia.
Thank you John for commenting. It is good for your health. Fun projects.
Sounds like Mr. Pete hit you with that "ark of the covenant" remark.
Wow , that counterweight works really well, I could certainly live with a setup like that, bravo Randy and thanks to
lyle.
Works great I should of done this years ago. Thanks.
Yup I saw it on his channel, and now its so easy I need to do it myself. You did better then I know I will.. Great Work Again!
I see a new addition to my Rockwell drill press in the future.
I need to do this to my old craftsman drill press, thanks Randy
Nice adaptation of Tubalcain's idea (and whoever else has done this over the years). Now if I just had a sash weight...
Have good holidays and I look forward to the next episode. Thanks, Randy.
Take care.
Pretty cool Randy!
Thanks Ray. I need to add some weight so I can keep my vise on .
That was quite some parting job - impressive!
That was one super effective project Randy - quite inspired even if similar in principle to Lyle's scheme. Major bonus on that long column.
That is a great idea Randy , Lyle comes up with some great stuff !
Thank you and all those involved in the content, efforts and production of this channel.
Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to all.
May the new year bring you, your families and friends much health, wealth, happiness, safety, security, appreciation, respect and peace.
Nice work as always Randy .
Lol, I sure Mr. Pete is proud to have inspired you.
I love the fact you have a nice heritage tool. Maybe band saw instead of part off would have been easier?
Nice build. I've been meaning to do the same to my drill presses, just haven't taken the time. . .yet.
Thanks Nic. Happy New Year. This is well worth the effort.
Randy I have the same drill press it was my grandfather's. I cherish it everytime I look at it or use it.
Sweet. Love mine.
Great job Randy I to watch Mr Pete. Will have to do this when my workshop is up and running. 👍👍👍👍
Nice job Randy looks like it worked very well.👍
Very cool. Thanks
Thank you Jim.
I've thought of doing the same but mine is a 60s Rockwell with a belt cover. I could do a clam just under the head using the same lash up that you used. I'll put that at the top of my some day projects. I couldn't stop laughing watching the episode of Bruce Witham's visit in Ray's garage working on the tailstock. Thank you I needed that
I was amazing the job at hand got completed. We had a great time.
I have 1977 rockwell 14 inch I put one on the side with some 1/8 cable, a simple pully with an eye.I drilled and taped some holes for bolts into the cast iron. I made a 3 inch pvc container and put scrap into it till it balanced. Someday I will weigh the counter weight and cut some barstock to replace it. It has been 20 years.
Nice mod/build.....I have tossed or left in the wall so many sash weights in the past doing window replacements....lol
Big improvement.My post is rusty so I better have hold of it with both hands or it may slide to the floor when it breaks loose.
Randy, great improvement and pretty simple to make with your inspiration. BTW - I would prefer parting the large diameter stainless steel with an ISCAR SGFH 26-3 parting blade using a GFL 3W - 4D type insert over using the HSS blade. I like the way the carbide insert chipformer with a central ridge makes the chips come out with very little resistance with a power feed when doing extra deep cuts. Still requires lots of cutting fluid to keep the groove wet.
Good video I like the cap you made I might give that style a try. This is a GREAT Idea I watched mrpetes video also. I got a really good deal on a Delta Rockwell adjustable speed the guy had three and he sold the first two for $350 but he thought the bearings were froze up and or motor because it was locked up tight so I got it for only $80 bucks!!! turns out the only thing wrong was the nut at the end of the spindle I NEVER have that kinda of luck!! Works great now Thanks for Posting two thumbs up my friend!!!
Great job and Great Idea. not i just need floor space for a drill press. Cheers Randy
Nice riff on Mr. Pete's idea--I've got an old Craftsman that needs the same treatment.
Thanks.
I have to chuckle every time mrpete says, "nobody will ever make one of these". Probably going to do that to my Buffalo when I get all the pieces for it together.
Yep I agree.
Best design.
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice, Randy. Being an incessant fiddler, I was triggered when I saw you got the drill press stripped down that far, but didn't slip the table up and off to weigh it. and compare it to the sash weight. That's a remarkable sash weight, BT Dubs. Since they work in pairs, I imagine the window it used to help support was yuge.
Just like a bought one. Not sure if Mr Peterson partakes but you owe him a beer :)
Oh yeah, I owe him. Thanks.
Wait, you can buy these?
(I do not have the metalworking skills and equipment needed.)
Why didn't I think of that. Great job randy. Merry Christmas to you and your family
Beats 2 handed positioning,nifty addition.
I saw Mr Petes video and need to do the same to my Atlas drill table, it has the extra wide table with the oil gutter on it so it's really heavy. I've tried using a sisor jack to help raise it but it's not working too great.
Thanks for the video Randy!
Nice hammer, glad to see it being used.
Almost every day, love the hammer thank you Steven.
So I have an old Craftsman/King Seeley drill press that I bought for $75 and rebuilt. All I need now to do your project is a lathe, large diameter stock for the cap, a Bridgeport mill, a welder, and inevitably a full day of labor. ....or I could get a trailer jack at Harbor freight for $25.
Yep, Thanks for watching.
Add the second weight you'll be surprised it will work better , with the vise especially.
For sure, Thanks.
If you ever need a sash weight or any of the hardware associated with the old style double hung windows, go to Blaine Window Hardware, located in New Jersey. They have just about any window hardware you couls ever need. Just a FYI!
Nice project
Randy, I really like your counterweight modification. BTW, the worst mistakes when parting off is too slow rpm and not enough lubricant.
Hand, or uneven, feeding can cause problems too, especially in stainless.
Fun project
You could add a friction mechanism to the pulley for when you have a heavy part on the table and need a little more resistance to falling?
You have my attention! Please give me any and all info on the end mill you used on the stainless. I have to try one... Cheers Dave
Those sash weights used to be laying all around , not anymore . I was going to do a similar fix for my 20 ton press .
Nice video.
Thanks for sharing
Thank you.
I would like to add the counter weight but I have the speed reduction attachment on my drill press and it fits in the top of the column to add an extra pulley.
Great video. I just learned that You're near Ripon?! I'm just up the road from you in Elk Grove. Keep up the great work!
In Mariposa.
Sometimes it doesn't take much to make life easier, why go without it, Ya, why...??? lol
Cheers, Pierre
Randy, video looked a little red and dark today. Different lighting or filter?
Randy
Merry Xmas and thanks for another great video.
Any chance of getting rough dimensions for that
ingenious vice block that you used on the mill ? it
looks really handy.
Thanks Again
Nice job Mr. Pete....
Oh wait...
Hey Randy, you have any experience with the 'Lever-Matic' collet chuck offered in Logan lathe catalogs? Thanks
That's a really old drill press. I thought my Clausing drill press was old and it was made around 1970
happy christmas randy and family all the best from me amanda and hounds
Merry Christmas Andy and family.
Guess you must of watched Mr Pete video to come up with this idea .
He helped spur encouragement to get busy with my plan. Thanks Pete.
Do you think the counterweight solution would work effectively for a benchtop model or should a spring model be used? I imagine if the counterweight is too long, it wont raise the table high enough.
I think you may have a distance issue on a bench top press. Maybe a short large dia. weight may work. Or have the weight on the outside and a hole in the bench for the weight to pass.
@@RRINTHESHOP Thanks - Yep, the pole is about 36" long. I figure that each 3" of lead (2.25 in dia with a steel sleeve = 2.5") will get me 2 lbs which equates to 6.7lbs for 10" - may not have the distance or the weight? Not sure.
You may have to do some testing for the approximate weight. Weight you table for comparison. @@gregcelaya955
@@RRINTHESHOP Thanks for your help! Appreciate it.
How did you decide on the weight needed
Just trial and error. I could actually add some. Thanks.
Perhaps I missed it, about how much weight did you use?
A Sash weight, about 1.75 od and 10-11" long, maybe cast iron. a few pounds. Thanks for watching.
@@RRINTHESHOP TY
Randy the card for Mr pets video isn't working
Thanks Chris, I think I fixed it.
Randy Richard In The Shop no problem
very nice job. did you see my new tractor video?
Perfect is okay....
Randy - great video. And bump up the ISO on your camera, the footage is dark!!
Yes some how the setting changed, but a bit to late the project is shot and done. Thanks Brad.
Preferably increased lighting and nominal camera settings, but lighting is a PITA sometimes.
Next stage:
Make a dual-weight counterbalance so that it works both with and without that heavy drill-press vise. Maybe a secondary weight that can be held at the top of the column with a pin. A center hole for the chain to pass through. Some thought would be needed to prevent it from being released unless it was supported by the main weight. (Maybe a headed pin in a keyhole slot in the weight. Can't be withdrawn unless the secondary weight is lifted by the primary.) Run the table to the bottom so that it lifts the secondary weight a bit; withdraw the pin; and now both weights counterbalance both table and vise.-- Designed as I typed.
EDIT: The headed pin fits a face groove in the bottom of the secondary weight so that it works even if the secondary weight rotates. The top of the main weight needs to be relieved to give room for the head of the pin.