Been using that system for years and it works good. However, I'll give you a tip. You should plug the black box into the vehicle first and the trailer second if your trailer (mainly an RV) have an onboard battery. Otherwise it sometimes refuses to work properly. Also you hold in the manual override button to set the brake gain.
I see so many comments bashing the idea of this. I see how for the guys of TFL this is an amazing tool cause they review many vehicles that may or may not have controllers. As someone that used to tow only occasionally but had to borrow a truck (had a trailer for picking up project cars but only ever drove my project cars and used a friends or brothers truck) that would have been perfect. I've since upgraded both trailer and gotten a truck so no longer an issue but I can still see the value of this product.
I have the same unit, and set up with my Honda Odyssey and wife's Subaru Outback with 7 pin harnesses running a power cable direct from the battery through a 40 amp self resetting fuse. Took about an hour for each, and the brake controller is super slick! A correction to your video demo... When setting the max braking pressure, use the manual override and then set the max setting with the dial.
@Clay S no problem at all. I went with a Derale 13503. Pain taking the front bumper cover off, and chewed up my forearm a bit getting the new hoses run, but all in all not bad. I say go for it.
FYI, in icy conditions, never use the manual trailer brake! That is the best way to have the trailer pass you by. Turn the gain down if your towing on snow or ice. In the dry, using the manual trailer brake can stop a swaying trailer. Everything is going wireless, but this is just not an option in my book. But for those that don't have a brake controller in their truck, and do light trailering, maybe. Seems like a lot of work and bulky. I'd hard wire into the trucks system, done deal. Great review Andre as always, love TFL.
I agree with you concerning braking conditions and ice. I don't agree with you on "too much work". I'm not about to let some spider monkey mess around in my $100k SUV's electrical system. This solution is easy and guaranteed not to mess up the complicated electronics or ECU's in expensive vehicles.
I've had the Prodigy RF controller on my SUV pulling a 6x10 single-axle cargo trailer since the first time I had to emergency-stop at a light going downhill. Works great and I store the handset in the trailer so others I've lent the trailer to can take advantage of it also.
I work for a hire company in Australia and we fit a similar unit to all trailers over 2000kg as they require electric brakes. Just typed up a simplified version of the usage instructions and the remote lives on the trailer with the adapters best idea ever.
I use a Curt Echo wireless on my 2018 4runner TRD off road with a stage 7 Icon suspension 33" tires, I tow a small travel trailer ( jayco Hummingbird 17rb) does very well. the 4runner has been geared to 4.88s so towing isn't too much of a struggle.
Do you ever have issues with your Curt Echo? i want that one too and have a Tacoma TRD Off Road but saw some bad reviews. Some people say they're dangerous?
I've had a remote (wireless) brake actuator on a 5000 lb cargo trailer I tow with my Silverado since 2015. The remote is wired to the trailer brake light and that serves as a trigger to start applying the trailer brakes. An inertial accelerometer detects how hard I'm braking and sets the trailer brakes accordingly. The brake system on my trailer is electric over hydraulic and with the remote wireless actuator the control of the truck- trailer combo down steep grades in the rain is superb.
Bro if you have a 2014 Silverado you should just have a normal brake controller that plugs into the factory tow package hard wired into the truck. Same with mine
I can’t stand manufacturers rating vehicles for loads that need trailer brakes but lack a brake controller. Without it it can’t tow the load safely. Every truck should have one unless it is rated for less.
Nice review Andre. I'm shopping for a half-ton pickup and I'm amazed at how few trucks on the lots have a brake controller built in. Ford has numerous F-150s on lots with a trailer backup assistant installed but no brake controller. That makes no sense at all.
Trucks never had brake controllers installed for well decades, you wanted to tow you took your truck to a shop and had the receiver hitch and trailer brake controller installed, why do people seem to think that stuff should be installed at the factory? Many never tow a trailer so why put that stuff in a vehicle that may never see any real work? This is what automakers see...and if they all did add brake controllers buyers wouldn't want that model and would rip it out and replace it with what they want anyhow, just like stereo systems, tires, wheels, etc.
Many pick up trucks have a hole for the factory brake control. I had a F150 with a tow package without the brake control and I was easily able to add it. Only "tough" part was getting (convincing) the dealer to activate it in the software. Much better solution. This would be handy if you had one trailer that was being towed but many different vehicles. I can see where this is great for the way TFL tests trailer towing on many vehicles.
I am pretty sure all Toyota/Lexus body on frame SUVs since 2005 came pre-wired for brake controllers. The connector is usually under the dash panel by the steering wheel. You just need to buy a regular brake controller (Prodigy 3 is what I use) and connect it in. Cost way less than $250 and you don't even need to run the cables. I attached my brake controller to the removable fuse cover so I can remove it when not in use.
Heck my 1998 Lincoln came prewired. Factory adapter cable to Curt Triflex screwed into bracket and done. 15-30 minutes maybe. $75 or something for the cable and controller.
Crap. This kit sells on Amazon for $265. I bought my Curtis wired controller for $55 and it took me an hour to install. Much more worth it to me to have a hardwired connection to the trailer brakes.
Many of today's trucks are "Pre-wired" for brake controllers, a couple screws and a couple wire connections, plug in a pig-tail harness and away you go.
Curt manufacturing has one that plugs into the 7 pin in your truck and is all self contained, no need to install on the trailer so you can use on multiple vehicles AND multiple trailers. Controlled via app for Iphone and Android. Plug it into your 7 pin on the truck and plug the trailer into the unit. Pretty slick..
@@jamesm6327 I'm pretty sure you could install this on your truck instead of the trailer and have pretty much the same thing. Why one needs to connect their smart phone to their trailer brakes is baffling though.
If your point is to hate on Toyota. Then you might want to say how some Tundra drivers have complained about their brake controller not working, new from factory. And how the small overlap crash protection on the Tundra will leave you in a wheelchair. Toyota has had the small overlap problem since 2014 and has done nothing to fix the problem! When Ford fixed their problem from one year to the next..... I drive a Tundra, but I'm on the side of truth! 👊
They got the right idea....HOWEVER, if you got to do that much work to install it, get a traditional brake controller. I got mine from my GM dealer. 4 axle proportional control with a plug and play wiring harness. Drilled 2 holes in the dash (could have gotten away with heavy duty velcro if you dont want to drill. Plugged the connector in and done in less than 15 minutes. And it cost $120 Canadian taxes included. The one you advertising is way more complicated. Granted it portable to multiple vehicles. Use the wives SUV for a family camping trip then your old pickup truck for a hunting trip with your camper and only need 1 controller for the trailer, or if you buddy needs to borrow you trailer.... so it makes sense that way I guess
of course, the reason they do hydraulic surge on boat trailers is because boat trailers carry boats and boats go in the water. Its hard on the electric components to be dunked and sat in water repeatedly. To say nothing of drums being worthless when they have water in them. With surge you don't get the control but you don't have to worry about corrosion and electrical issues as well as being more easily able to use disc brakes which don't fill with water.
The Curt Bluetooth system is more portable between trailers. But I wonder about connection reliability and theft potential. The Redarc system is very neat, permanent set up. TESTING TIME ANDRE!
In Australia they are taking large SUVs like Land Cruisers and towing trailers weighing 3.5 to 4 tons and not using electric braked trailers. In Europe you can tow up-to 7,714lbs/3.5 tons and i have never seen electric brakes used, only surged braked trailers as you call them and we go up and down long hills all day without trailers going off and trying to overtake your tow vehicle. I think you should only tow in a hitch a trailer that weighs the same as the tow vehicle and once your load is properly centered over the trailer axles I can't see you having a problem. Of course if you want to tow a BIG trailer use a fifth wheel.
US towing regulations are different. Usually it is not because the vehicle is not capable, but rather it needs to have certain safety equipment by law. I am not sure what the towing speed in Australia and Europe are. Here in the US, people will tow at crazy speed on the highway (>>55 mph towing speed). This is where having proper towing equipment (sway control, weight distribution hitch, trailer brakes, etc...) will save your ass.
ever had a remote control car, then all of a sudden, it's not responding to the controller? this would worry me, about a wireless brake controller. I like the idea, but seems like it would be better just to do the job 100, rather than 75%
The first thing that came to mind is I would never put wireless in control of my safety. That's over-complicating a simple wired connection into many things that are needed for a paired connection including hundreds of electronic components on circuit boards, antennas, memory, firmware etc... Imagine that one time you really needed those trailer brakes and in that moment it losses communication and you crash.
It only uses the wireless signal to adjust the gain and send the override signal. For normal braking, the box mounted to the trailer uses the brake light wire to activate the brakes, just like a hardwired unit. It's basically just moving the brake controller from the cab of the truck to the trailer tongue, then adds in the wireless controller for adjustments and override from the cab. Now, granted, the emergency override is wireless, so there is a bit of risk there for the rare occasions when that's needed.
I’m gonna make a silly question, but the trailer needs to have any sore of brakes, to use this wireless brake controller. ?. My suv does not have towing package, but this option will avoid the hazard to go to cables and setting, plus the device looks awful below the steering wheel. Thank you.
I saw an episode a while back where you were tow testing multiple trucks and you had a trailer brake system that you moved from one truck to another. I think it was yellow in color. What system was that?
thats ok because we have gas stations every ten feet and most americans stop in the local gas stop for coffee and doughnuts before work or if your like me, beer on the way home and our local gas stops have the cheapest, coldest beer
@@philtripe it's not about how many gas stations you have, it's about how often you stop at a gas station to fill up. With the Land Cruiser, you will stop very often, as the 5.7L engine is just as efficient as a full-size pickup truck from the 80s. At least here in Europe, there's a 4.5L diesel that gets 22mpg city and 26 highway. How about that?
8:25 do not ever press that manual brake control button if you are on a slippery surface and your trailer is swinging, what you want to do is let go of the brakes and let the trailer straightened up. if you pull the trailer brakes during that you will 100% jack knife it. Source truck driver. you can even hit the gas and the trailer will straighten up. people instincts are to hit the brakes which makes it worse.
seems to be a solution to a "problem" only few people actually have. I don't have multiple vehicles to pull my ONE trailer with. I have multiple trailers that get pulled by ONE power unit. in that situation, one good quality brake controller mounted vehicle side would be far more cost effective and easier to maintain with no randomly lost wireless connection.
Looks like it could be a little dangerous. What happens if another driver is near you who also has one? Is there any possibility that their system activating your system? Also those Cigarette Lighter plugs from time to time can loose connection due to vibration in the cab as they back themselves out. Does that system have to be reprogrammed each time the connection is lost?
I'm have a tow vehicle with ZERO trailer wiring. Does this make running wires in the car unnecessary? Also does it not interact with the vehicle brakes?
If it takes an hour to mount. I would just take the extra 30 minutes to run a cable up the driver side trim and use a standard 7 pin with brake controller so you can tow any trailer.
@@rik999 just leave the old four pin connector on your vehicle and add a seven pin or use an adapter. I dont need a cigarette lighter plug coming loose while towing snd causing brakes to fail. Cig lighters are notorious for loose connections over time with cell phone chargers etc
Wireless isn’t as reliable plus they had to install it anyway just like you would with the wired unit, then this guy says you have to pay a dealer much more to install the wired unit, lol. Talk about a paid endorsement. Then your vehicle can only pull one trailer for $250 plus labor
The first negative thing about surge brakes is a kind of owner related. If you reverse with your trailer there's a system in the brakes that disengage them. If it doesn't work it's because the lack of maintenance. Downhill and towing heavy loads + a lot of engine braking is one thing that the surge brakes are worse at. I would say that surge brakes are far more reliable as it's 100% mechanical. Who hasn't had a problem/s with their electric connector etc on the car/trailer? I sure have.
How is this new . This has been around for a while. There is one limitations and flaw with this controller. You cannot use the flasher . It will make the brake pulse.
Andre very good review on the wireless brake controller. Good explanation on the surge brakes going downhill and rather having them or electric. I never thought of going down the Ike and bring up my brakes with surge brakes is that in your book? What engine is in that Land Cruiser to tow that much? Looks like you had a lot of squat in the back end with the wheels somewhat in the air.
A regular brake controller and harness will be way cheaper than. This. And if your vehicle doesn't come with a tow package as an option from factory then it isn't built to tow enough to need trailer brakes
If your vehicle is prewired yes, but just because it doesnt come with a tow package doesnt automatically mean it's not built to tow enough. My Tacoma wasnt prewired, yet is rated to tow 3500lbs. Anything in my mind over 2k needs a brake controller which even small CUV's like some Subarus can tow.
@@ALMX5DP it depends. I agree that if your towing that much weight, brakes are a good idea. However depending on where u live, you wouldn't need it for 3500lb. Here in Ontario for example it's only required for over 3500lbs or 2 or more axles. So your truck could tow a single axle trailer that weighs less than 3500 with just the truck brakes and no trailer brakes. My wives van is the same. Now most full size trucks obviously are set to tow more (even without the tow package/pre wiring harness) but it's still limited to an avg of 5000lb. Tho the trailer still needs to have brakes at that point( most boat trailers have surge brakes for example) tho personally I think it should be law that any and all vehicles "rated" above 3000lb-3500lb towing should have to have a factory brake controller as standard equipment or not have the tow rating. I could have got the factory integrated controller for $300ish.... but the only trucks the dealer had with that had other crap I didn't want to pay for. So I opted to buy mine without and installed an aftermarket for $100 and I'm go to go.
@@craigquann laws vary, so my 2k weight limit statement was just from my personal experience. However I disagree that a rating should be based on the inclusion of a brake controller or not. Many areas have laws for "unsafe loads" which I feel encompasses that aspect without specifying the need for specific equipment. I think most vehicles that can tow upwards of 3500lbs have a harness enabling an owner like you or me to add a controller if needed so I would be a shame if my truck wasnt rated for the weight just because it didnt have something from the factory due to cost or whatever.
@@ALMX5DP no. They wouldn't have the wiring for a brake controller/7 pin because it not legal required. Hence my point once you cross that threshold trailers either require surge brakes or require a 7 pin setup. Again my wives van is rated for 3500lb. And only has the basic 4 pin towing harness and no option for a brake controller without me adding a complete 7 pin harness. My truck has a factory towing package ( 4 and 7 pin, hitch receiver and locking rear and gearing. The built in controller was an option from factory but not on mine. Tho my truck itself has the 7 pin harness built into the chassis. I only had to buy the brake controller which came with a cord that plugs into the truck factory wiring with no mods or splicing. I drilled 2 holes for the mounting bracket. But by law even tho my truck is rated for 10000lb (max you can tow without a commercial license and cvor) I cant legally tow more than 3500lb without the trailer having it's own braking system be it surge or electric. So that's why I'm saying anything above that should be required by law. Hell they have daytime lights and back up cameras by law now on new vehicles ( backup cameras as of 2018+) it only makes sense to have brake controller be mandatory from factory to get the tow rating. Cuz believe me, we both know theres plenty of stupid fuckers out there that would hook up to a trailer, plug the cord in to the 7 pin. And because the lights work and the truck says x-lbs towing, think the truck can roll off with a trailer and not have a controller.
Craig Quann that just adds cost for the end user though, and if they don’t tow enough to warrant it then it’s money they’re spending on nothing. Like your minivan my Tacoma didn’t come wired with anything so I had to add my own 7-pin to P3 controller. It’s just like many ratings are based on weight distribution or fifth wheel components, however I think it should be the owner’s responsibility to ensure they are safely towing not on the manufacturer to cover their bases. I see a lot of utility trailers where I am that don’t have brakes yet are rated to haul upward of 5k loads. Same principle for someone to tow that with a vehicle with a controller yet no brakes thinking their okay, and I’d hate to have mandatory laws saying it’s necessary for that since not all people need it.
Um.....I have 2 trailers so do I have to take an hour and a half (a half hour to take it off one trailer and an hour to put it on the other one) everytime I get ready to go? This is a dumb idea I think. I will keep my $50 hard wired controller in my truck and be able to just plug into any trailer in seconds. Also it only took me a half hour to put it in my truck one time.
Unless you have multiple vehicles that will only ever tow the same trailer there is absolutely no need for this. Installing a controller on a vehicle with a factory tow package literally just involves plugging something in. If you can charge your phone there's a good chance you can install a controller.
one problem you failed to cover. where is the power coming from to actually operate the brakes?? a small battery in that device you mounted to the trailer?? in Colorado with a tandem axle trailer how long is that battery going to last?? trailer sits for a couple months that battery is going to be dead.
@@Webcrawler45 I am helping a friend install on a Toyota he bought. The controller came with the controller and no instructions. When the Toyota has no plug, I have it wired but I don't know where to get the power to the plug in from the vehicle to operate it. Any ideas? I ran a wire from the battery to power the unit, but how does the power come from the brakes
when you see a guy in a dually towing something you dont pay it much mind but when you see a guy with an suv youd better get your camera ready because theres a good chance something funny or spectacular is about to happen. in fact i would suggest going a step further and buying a set of blue jean overalls. i mean certainly dont stand there in a suit and tie unless you want me and the whole world watching you
I have a 2009 tundra 5.7 4x4 WITHOUT factory towing package which it's very rare in tundra from the year especially with the 5.7. I didn't realize it until way after I bought it. It has 4.10 gears instead of 4.30 and no 7 pin connector. I only pull a 5x10 open utility for my tools that I dont think weighs more than 3000 total but I'm always thinking of getting a bigger tandem axle trailer and it bothers me that I dont have brake controller prewire and no 7 pin.
its low voltage and the wiring SHOULD be heat shrinked/soldered. its usually fine good practice would be to un plug trailer before backing into the water and it should be fine. remember that even without electric brakes, the trailer has brake, turn and marker lights and they are fine
@@Black70Fastback Yes, all that and disconnecting the electrical before dipping the trailer is best practice. Not only to keep from shorting things out but also to keep incandescent bulbs and lenses from getting temperature shock.
It senses your brake lights. From there, in the box mounted to the side of the trailer, is an inertia sensor. I've been using this exact set up for a few years now on my camper trailer. Modern tow vehicles that don't have a controller built in, there is very little room to mount a controller in a convenient spot (especially so that you can get to the manual override quickly and safely) It's great if you are using multiple tow vehicles on one trailer. There is an issue with pairing on some vehicle that have LED brake lights. There is not enough voltage for the box to sense when the driver hits the brake pedal. The VW Touareg is one such vehicle. The solution is to use another vehicle with a 7 pin to do the inital pairing. Once it's paired it will work with any tow vehicle. Including the VW Touareg Andre mentioned this doesn't work with if you already have a controller in the tow vehicle. This is incorrect. The box mounted on the side of the trailer will sense if there is a controler in the tow vehicle and if there is, it will bypass and you will use the tow vehicles controller. I've done this many times.
Surge brakes have to be the worst invention ever put on a highway, outside of the Prius of course. I rented a Uhaul with surge brakes once, and coming down from the Eisenhower tunnel, I was glad when the brakes finally got hot enough that they stopped working, because I kept having to accelerate down the hill.
Its "paired" just be matching RF frequency, not through bluetooth. So if something interfered, once that interference went away, the frequency would still be paired. Also, the "brain" is on the tongue and detects both inertia and brake lights, so the brakes will still work even if the remote got unplugged from power. The remote is only for setup, changing braking levels, and manual over-ride. I had the same unit on my work truck, and only ever had to use the remote going up hills, to turn off the "boost" feature, because my 4-way flashers would cause the brakes to pulse with boost enabled.
Using RF is not as reliable as hard wired connections. This system uses 3.2Ghz from what I understand which might be unlicensed spectrum, so that bandwidth not used for a lot of things yet in the world. However 3.2Ghz signal is used for things like radar systems and probably some other devices similar to this brake controller. All you'd need for a problem is a strong enough 3.2Ghz signal to add enough interference where your driving and you could have a communication problem. It would be really rare with not too many things operating on 3.2Ghz range, but who knows with new devices popping up all the time. Maybe years down the road more things using 3.2Ghz would be an issue noted by more people.
anything wireless on a moving vehicle is bad. It's hackable most times security is low on their feature list. How long is it supported with firmware updates ?
Like that's a problem, people buying new vehicles haven't realized they're totally hackable, what company was that who hacked the Jeeps a few years ago and took control over the vehicle's acceleration, braking, etc.? That's real, and today's vehicles are extremely vulnerable to that stuff...the more and more electronic crap added to vehicles the more vulnerable to being hacked.
@@wildbill23c that was this one www.wired.com/2015/07/hackers-remotely-kill-jeep-highway. ua-cam.com/video/AdZ8nx6nRfA/v-deo.html . Most of the time all this is not designed with security in mind. Do any of those companies think about the used car market when updates are not available anymore. Cars have a longer lifespan than cellphones
Remember guys, when you are showing off tech with LEDs,. to actually say or write on screen what it says because filming these things come out unreadable for us watching you on UA-cam.
while that system is obviously better than nothing, it does not appear to have any inertia capability. aka most tekonsha products read how fast your are decelerating and apply power accordingly. in a panic stop that matters.
Misleading headline: youre NOT towing "without trailer brakes", you're towing without a permanently installed brake controller in the tow vehicle. That's a very large difference.
Regarding a hardwired controller, “you have to buy the unit, then pay the dealer to install it which can cost much more than this wireless unit”. I got an idea....INSTALL IT YOURSELF. Then I see you guys installing the wireless unit yourselves??!! Lmao. Talk about making a paid by prodigy sales pitch. Wow
Really? On my 08 Toyota Tundra, I pulled the brake controller out of my old truck, installed the pig-tail connector on the brake controller wires and installed 2 screws on the mounting bracket, plugged the pig-tail into the truck and it only took me 10 minutes. Today's vehicles are pre-wired in most cases for brake controllers....at least Toyota was smart enough to use the same wiring harness in their trucks regardless, so it was pre-wired for everything to tow, as well as add any accessories to turn a base model truck into a limited by just buying the accessory and plugging it in.
Been using that system for years and it works good. However, I'll give you a tip. You should plug the black box into the vehicle first and the trailer second if your trailer (mainly an RV) have an onboard battery. Otherwise it sometimes refuses to work properly.
Also you hold in the manual override button to set the brake gain.
Do you still use it and like it?
I see so many comments bashing the idea of this. I see how for the guys of TFL this is an amazing tool cause they review many vehicles that may or may not have controllers. As someone that used to tow only occasionally but had to borrow a truck (had a trailer for picking up project cars but only ever drove my project cars and used a friends or brothers truck) that would have been perfect. I've since upgraded both trailer and gotten a truck so no longer an issue but I can still see the value of this product.
I have the same unit, and set up with my Honda Odyssey and wife's Subaru Outback with 7 pin harnesses running a power cable direct from the battery through a 40 amp self resetting fuse. Took about an hour for each, and the brake controller is super slick!
A correction to your video demo... When setting the max braking pressure, use the manual override and then set the max setting with the dial.
Lol you shouldn't be towing with a minivan
@@banana82728 Meh, it's a pop up camper and I added a trans cooler. Manufacturer says 3500 pounds and I'm way below that.
@@dshall442 wait how do you even monitor the trans temp. It has a gauge for that?
@@banana82728 Scangauge II can monitor trans temps.
@Clay S no problem at all. I went with a Derale 13503. Pain taking the front bumper cover off, and chewed up my forearm a bit getting the new hoses run, but all in all not bad. I say go for it.
FYI, in icy conditions, never use the manual trailer brake! That is the best way to have the trailer pass you by. Turn the gain down if your towing on snow or ice. In the dry, using the manual trailer brake can stop a swaying trailer. Everything is going wireless, but this is just not an option in my book. But for those that don't have a brake controller in their truck, and do light trailering, maybe. Seems like a lot of work and bulky. I'd hard wire into the trucks system, done deal. Great review Andre as always, love TFL.
I agree with you concerning braking conditions and ice. I don't agree with you on "too much work". I'm not about to let some spider monkey mess around in my $100k SUV's electrical system. This solution is easy and guaranteed not to mess up the complicated electronics or ECU's in expensive vehicles.
@@christschool You must not have anyone repair it either.
@@christschool agree 100% for a 100k$ truck messing with wires is a crime 🤣
I've had the Prodigy RF controller on my SUV pulling a 6x10 single-axle cargo trailer since the first time I had to emergency-stop at a light going downhill. Works great and I store the handset in the trailer so others I've lent the trailer to can take advantage of it also.
I work for a hire company in Australia and we fit a similar unit to all trailers over 2000kg as they require electric brakes. Just typed up a simplified version of the usage instructions and the remote lives on the trailer with the adapters best idea ever.
I use a Curt Echo wireless on my 2018 4runner TRD off road with a stage 7 Icon suspension 33" tires, I tow a small travel trailer ( jayco Hummingbird 17rb) does very well. the 4runner has been geared to 4.88s so towing isn't too much of a struggle.
Do you ever have issues with your Curt Echo? i want that one too and have a Tacoma TRD Off Road but saw some bad reviews. Some people say they're dangerous?
I like how a fully loaded Toyota has all those blank button covers. What other options are there?
I've been using the same unit. It works great!
They're the kind of guys to take thirty minutes to hook up all the correct equipment for a two mile trip to the dump
And that's what you're supposed to do.
I've had a remote (wireless) brake actuator on a 5000 lb cargo trailer I tow with my Silverado since 2015. The remote is wired to the trailer brake light and that serves as a trigger to start applying the trailer brakes. An inertial accelerometer detects how hard I'm braking and sets the trailer brakes accordingly. The brake system on my trailer is electric over hydraulic and with the remote wireless actuator the control of the truck- trailer combo down steep grades in the rain is superb.
Bro if you have a 2014 Silverado you should just have a normal brake controller that plugs into the factory tow package hard wired into the truck. Same with mine
2013 Silverado
awesome that you actually show this on a real vehicle and not just a whiteboard or talking about it. thanks.
I can’t stand manufacturers rating vehicles for loads that need trailer brakes but lack a brake controller. Without it it can’t tow the load safely. Every truck should have one unless it is rated for less.
Agreed. Didn’t know that you couldn’t install the brake controller on my first truck until after I bought it…😅
Nice review Andre. I'm shopping for a half-ton pickup and I'm amazed at how few trucks on the lots have a brake controller built in. Ford has numerous F-150s on lots with a trailer backup assistant installed but no brake controller. That makes no sense at all.
Trucks never had brake controllers installed for well decades, you wanted to tow you took your truck to a shop and had the receiver hitch and trailer brake controller installed, why do people seem to think that stuff should be installed at the factory? Many never tow a trailer so why put that stuff in a vehicle that may never see any real work? This is what automakers see...and if they all did add brake controllers buyers wouldn't want that model and would rip it out and replace it with what they want anyhow, just like stereo systems, tires, wheels, etc.
my 2018 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 came with brake package
You might want to check and see if that is a dealer installable option.
My 2018 Silverado 2500 WT had a built in brake controller, pretty handy and looked nice.
Your English is getting Amazing!
Looks interesting for my 2005 Ram 1500, might look into that when i expand my RZR inventory and ill be able to haul 2
Happy
Many pick up trucks have a hole for the factory brake control. I had a F150 with a tow package without the brake control and I was easily able to add it. Only "tough" part was getting (convincing) the dealer to activate it in the software. Much better solution. This would be handy if you had one trailer that was being towed but many different vehicles. I can see where this is great for the way TFL tests trailer towing on many vehicles.
That is really slick! I need one for my '96 F150.
I am pretty sure all Toyota/Lexus body on frame SUVs since 2005 came pre-wired for brake controllers. The connector is usually under the dash panel by the steering wheel. You just need to buy a regular brake controller (Prodigy 3 is what I use) and connect it in. Cost way less than $250 and you don't even need to run the cables. I attached my brake controller to the removable fuse cover so I can remove it when not in use.
Heck my 1998 Lincoln came prewired. Factory adapter cable to Curt Triflex screwed into bracket and done. 15-30 minutes maybe.
$75 or something for the cable and controller.
Crap. This kit sells on Amazon for $265. I bought my Curtis wired controller for $55 and it took me an hour to install. Much more worth it to me to have a hardwired connection to the trailer brakes.
Depending on vehicle and pre-wiring installed, this can be quicker and much easier to install.
Many of today's trucks are "Pre-wired" for brake controllers, a couple screws and a couple wire connections, plug in a pig-tail harness and away you go.
Curt manufacturing has one that plugs into the 7 pin in your truck and is all self contained, no need to install on the trailer so you can use on multiple vehicles AND multiple trailers. Controlled via app for Iphone and Android. Plug it into your 7 pin on the truck and plug the trailer into the unit. Pretty slick..
@@jamesm6327 I'm pretty sure you could install this on your truck instead of the trailer and have pretty much the same thing. Why one needs to connect their smart phone to their trailer brakes is baffling though.
@@killer2600 James M was introducing this thing, CURT 51180 Echo.
toyota figures that 99% of landcruiser owners wont tow anything at all
and they are correct
Won’t? Couldn’t.
It just doesn’t look right pulling that horse trailer
Pick up trucks and SUV's did NOT come with a factory brake controller back in the days. He did mention this was a 2008...
If your point is to hate on Toyota. Then you might want to say how some Tundra drivers have complained about their brake controller not working, new from factory.
And how the small overlap crash protection on the Tundra will leave you in a wheelchair. Toyota has had the small overlap problem since 2014 and has done nothing to fix the problem! When Ford fixed their problem from one year to the next.....
I drive a Tundra, but I'm on the side of truth! 👊
That's a great product. Good info guys, thanks.
They got the right idea....HOWEVER, if you got to do that much work to install it, get a traditional brake controller. I got mine from my GM dealer. 4 axle proportional control with a plug and play wiring harness. Drilled 2 holes in the dash (could have gotten away with heavy duty velcro if you dont want to drill. Plugged the connector in and done in less than 15 minutes. And it cost $120 Canadian taxes included. The one you advertising is way more complicated. Granted it portable to multiple vehicles. Use the wives SUV for a family camping trip then your old pickup truck for a hunting trip with your camper and only need 1 controller for the trailer, or if you buddy needs to borrow you trailer.... so it makes sense that way I guess
I did not want a big dash wart on my new vehicle.
of course, the reason they do hydraulic surge on boat trailers is because boat trailers carry boats and boats go in the water. Its hard on the electric components to be dunked and sat in water repeatedly. To say nothing of drums being worthless when they have water in them. With surge you don't get the control but you don't have to worry about corrosion and electrical issues as well as being more easily able to use disc brakes which don't fill with water.
Why wouldn’t you just install the module on the truck side so it can be used with all trailers?
The Curt Bluetooth system is more portable between trailers. But I wonder about connection reliability and theft potential. The Redarc system is very neat, permanent set up. TESTING TIME ANDRE!
Nice device! But i your truck does not came.with a pin conector from factory? Does that kit come.with that conector?
Thats next level! Wow
Nit exactly new, I had one 10 years ago. They work well. I used it on a trailer that got towed by many vehicles including rental truck's.
How does it get signal to actuate the brakes from the cigarette lighter?
Cigarette lighter just provides power. The trailer controller knows you pushed the brakes due to the brake lights signal.
In Australia they are taking large SUVs like Land Cruisers and towing trailers weighing 3.5 to 4 tons and not using electric braked trailers. In Europe you can tow up-to 7,714lbs/3.5 tons and i have never seen electric brakes used, only surged braked trailers as you call them and we go up and down long hills all day without trailers going off and trying to overtake your tow vehicle. I think you should only tow in a hitch a trailer that weighs the same as the tow vehicle and once your load is properly centered over the trailer axles I can't see you having a problem. Of course if you want to tow a BIG trailer use a fifth wheel.
US towing regulations are different. Usually it is not because the vehicle is not capable, but rather it needs to have certain safety equipment by law. I am not sure what the towing speed in Australia and Europe are. Here in the US, people will tow at crazy speed on the highway (>>55 mph towing speed). This is where having proper towing equipment (sway control, weight distribution hitch, trailer brakes, etc...) will save your ass.
ever had a remote control car, then all of a sudden, it's not responding to the controller? this would worry me, about a wireless brake controller. I like the idea, but seems like it would be better just to do the job 100, rather than 75%
Yeah, that's how my nice rc car broke, went out of range and then ran into a curb at full speed lol :(
Wireless makes me cringe. Imagine pulling passes in Colorado then no brakes. Not worth the risk. Get a truck with brake controller to tow.
The first thing that came to mind is I would never put wireless in control of my safety. That's over-complicating a simple wired connection into many things that are needed for a paired connection including hundreds of electronic components on circuit boards, antennas, memory, firmware etc... Imagine that one time you really needed those trailer brakes and in that moment it losses communication and you crash.
It only uses the wireless signal to adjust the gain and send the override signal. For normal braking, the box mounted to the trailer uses the brake light wire to activate the brakes, just like a hardwired unit. It's basically just moving the brake controller from the cab of the truck to the trailer tongue, then adds in the wireless controller for adjustments and override from the cab.
Now, granted, the emergency override is wireless, so there is a bit of risk there for the rare occasions when that's needed.
The controller works wether the remote is active or not.
Finally more land cruiser content
I’m gonna make a silly question, but the trailer needs to have any sore of brakes, to use this wireless brake controller. ?. My suv does not have towing package, but this option will avoid the hazard to go to cables and setting, plus the device looks awful below the steering wheel. Thank you.
I saw an episode a while back where you were tow testing multiple trucks and you had a trailer brake system that you moved from one truck to another. I think it was yellow in color. What system was that?
Andra, no need to apologize for your trailer tongue, mine looks way wore but it works just fine. I'v been planning on repainting it for years now.
Andra?
There’s a version of the Land Cruiser with a 36.5 gallon fuel tank. Just saying, as the US model only has 24.6 gallons.
Sergiu Puscasu depends if you measure in Imperial gallons or those silly US gallons ! in real gallons its 27.37 and 18.45.
thats ok because we have gas stations every ten feet and most americans stop in the local gas stop for coffee and doughnuts before work or if your like me, beer on the way home and our local gas stops have the cheapest, coldest beer
Lol that's sad. This super expensive SUV and yet my cheap pickup has a 34 gallon.
@@CrimeVid I'm using US gallons. I would use liters, but most Americans don't know what they are, so I'll use gallons.
@@philtripe it's not about how many gas stations you have, it's about how often you stop at a gas station to fill up. With the Land Cruiser, you will stop very often, as the 5.7L engine is just as efficient as a full-size pickup truck from the 80s.
At least here in Europe, there's a 4.5L diesel that gets 22mpg city and 26 highway. How about that?
that looks like so much more work than installing a regular brake control
Excellent video!
My FGT will need this!
8:25 do not ever press that manual brake control button if you are on a slippery surface and your trailer is swinging, what you want to do is let go of the brakes and let the trailer straightened up. if you pull the trailer brakes during that you will 100% jack knife it. Source truck driver. you can even hit the gas and the trailer will straighten up. people instincts are to hit the brakes which makes it worse.
seems to be a solution to a "problem" only few people actually have.
I don't have multiple vehicles to pull my ONE trailer with.
I have multiple trailers that get pulled by ONE power unit.
in that situation, one good quality brake controller mounted vehicle side would be far more cost effective and easier to maintain with no randomly lost wireless connection.
If you do not mind a big dash wart on your vehicle.
Looks like it could be a little dangerous. What happens if another driver is near you who also has one? Is there any possibility that their system activating your system? Also those Cigarette Lighter plugs from time to time can loose connection due to vibration in the cab as they back themselves out. Does that system have to be reprogrammed each time the connection is lost?
I'm have a tow vehicle with ZERO trailer wiring. Does this make running wires in the car unnecessary? Also does it not interact with the vehicle brakes?
Awesome tech
If it takes an hour to mount. I would just take the extra 30 minutes to run a cable up the driver side trim and use a standard 7 pin with brake controller so you can tow any trailer.
But the advantage is that you can tow your trailer with any vehicle that has a hitch and a 4 or 7 pin connector.
@@rik999 just leave the old four pin connector on your vehicle and add a seven pin or use an adapter. I dont need a cigarette lighter plug coming loose while towing snd causing brakes to fail. Cig lighters are notorious for loose connections over time with cell phone chargers etc
Wireless isn’t as reliable plus they had to install it anyway just like you would with the wired unit, then this guy says you have to pay a dealer much more to install the wired unit, lol. Talk about a paid endorsement.
Then your vehicle can only pull one trailer for $250 plus labor
@@fredkuhn165 or you could bolt the trailer unit to a magnetic mount, so it's easily transferable.
@@fredkuhn165 then if you have multiple trucks, you only have to buy one system instead of one for each truck.
The first negative thing about surge brakes is a kind of owner related.
If you reverse with your trailer there's a system in the brakes that disengage them.
If it doesn't work it's because the lack of maintenance.
Downhill and towing heavy loads + a lot of engine braking is one thing that the surge brakes are worse at.
I would say that surge brakes are far more reliable as it's 100% mechanical.
Who hasn't had a problem/s with their electric connector etc on the car/trailer?
I sure have.
How is this new . This has been around for a while. There is one limitations and flaw with this controller. You cannot use the flasher . It will make the brake pulse.
I am guessing a hot wire is required to the trailer plug if it’s not already installed.
Andre very good review on the wireless brake controller. Good explanation on the surge brakes going downhill and rather having them or electric. I never thought of going down the Ike and bring up my brakes with surge brakes is that in your book? What engine is in that Land Cruiser to tow that much? Looks like you had a lot of squat in the back end with the wheels somewhat in the air.
Looks like the 2019 Ford Ranger has a good solution now :)
Seems easier to just plug a brake controller into the trucks harness and mount it somewhere in the truck.
I agree. This seems more ideal for someone who tows a specific trailer with multiple vehicles - not exactly the most common use case.
@@killer2600 hire companies mate best idea going for them.
Would this work with a 4 pin connector to 7 pin connector?
A regular brake controller and harness will be way cheaper than. This. And if your vehicle doesn't come with a tow package as an option from factory then it isn't built to tow enough to need trailer brakes
If your vehicle is prewired yes, but just because it doesnt come with a tow package doesnt automatically mean it's not built to tow enough. My Tacoma wasnt prewired, yet is rated to tow 3500lbs. Anything in my mind over 2k needs a brake controller which even small CUV's like some Subarus can tow.
@@ALMX5DP it depends. I agree that if your towing that much weight, brakes are a good idea. However depending on where u live, you wouldn't need it for 3500lb. Here in Ontario for example it's only required for over 3500lbs or 2 or more axles. So your truck could tow a single axle trailer that weighs less than 3500 with just the truck brakes and no trailer brakes. My wives van is the same. Now most full size trucks obviously are set to tow more (even without the tow package/pre wiring harness) but it's still limited to an avg of 5000lb. Tho the trailer still needs to have brakes at that point( most boat trailers have surge brakes for example) tho personally I think it should be law that any and all vehicles "rated" above 3000lb-3500lb towing should have to have a factory brake controller as standard equipment or not have the tow rating. I could have got the factory integrated controller for $300ish.... but the only trucks the dealer had with that had other crap I didn't want to pay for. So I opted to buy mine without and installed an aftermarket for $100 and I'm go to go.
@@craigquann laws vary, so my 2k weight limit statement was just from my personal experience.
However I disagree that a rating should be based on the inclusion of a brake controller or not. Many areas have laws for "unsafe loads" which I feel encompasses that aspect without specifying the need for specific equipment. I think most vehicles that can tow upwards of 3500lbs have a harness enabling an owner like you or me to add a controller if needed so I would be a shame if my truck wasnt rated for the weight just because it didnt have something from the factory due to cost or whatever.
@@ALMX5DP no. They wouldn't have the wiring for a brake controller/7 pin because it not legal required. Hence my point once you cross that threshold trailers either require surge brakes or require a 7 pin setup. Again my wives van is rated for 3500lb. And only has the basic 4 pin towing harness and no option for a brake controller without me adding a complete 7 pin harness. My truck has a factory towing package ( 4 and 7 pin, hitch receiver and locking rear and gearing. The built in controller was an option from factory but not on mine. Tho my truck itself has the 7 pin harness built into the chassis. I only had to buy the brake controller which came with a cord that plugs into the truck factory wiring with no mods or splicing. I drilled 2 holes for the mounting bracket. But by law even tho my truck is rated for 10000lb (max you can tow without a commercial license and cvor) I cant legally tow more than 3500lb without the trailer having it's own braking system be it surge or electric. So that's why I'm saying anything above that should be required by law. Hell they have daytime lights and back up cameras by law now on new vehicles ( backup cameras as of 2018+) it only makes sense to have brake controller be mandatory from factory to get the tow rating. Cuz believe me, we both know theres plenty of stupid fuckers out there that would hook up to a trailer, plug the cord in to the 7 pin. And because the lights work and the truck says x-lbs towing, think the truck can roll off with a trailer and not have a controller.
Craig Quann that just adds cost for the end user though, and if they don’t tow enough to warrant it then it’s money they’re spending on nothing. Like your minivan my Tacoma didn’t come wired with anything so I had to add my own 7-pin to P3 controller. It’s just like many ratings are based on weight distribution or fifth wheel components, however I think it should be the owner’s responsibility to ensure they are safely towing not on the manufacturer to cover their bases. I see a lot of utility trailers where I am that don’t have brakes yet are rated to haul upward of 5k loads. Same principle for someone to tow that with a vehicle with a controller yet no brakes thinking their okay, and I’d hate to have mandatory laws saying it’s necessary for that since not all people need it.
Nice system is MR.Truck available for installs 👍🔧🔧
How about weather conditions? Is it advisable to just leave it installed on -20°f?
Will it work with a 4pin connector with an adapter?
Does a brake fan help cool down brakes?
Um.....I have 2 trailers so do I have to take an hour and a half (a half hour to take it off one trailer and an hour to put it on the other one) everytime I get ready to go? This is a dumb idea I think. I will keep my $50 hard wired controller in my truck and be able to just plug into any trailer in seconds. Also it only took me a half hour to put it in my truck one time.
OK, that’s pretty cool.
Unless you have multiple vehicles that will only ever tow the same trailer there is absolutely no need for this. Installing a controller on a vehicle with a factory tow package literally just involves plugging something in. If you can charge your phone there's a good chance you can install a controller.
What tells the wireless brake controller that you are pushing on the break pedal ? How does it know??? Well it work on 60’s, 70’s, or 80’s vehicles ?
The brake light pin in the trailer connector.
Thats an inertia brake, the one on the boat
Why mount that controller on the trailer? Mount it on the vehicle so it will work with multiple trailers.
What operates your lights and turn signals if your using your 7 pin for this unit ?
7 pin controls everything.
Make more videos on the new chevy,ford,and ram good thing and bad things
Will electric brakes short out in water?
Not a good option if you tow different trailers, cattle one day then the boat on the weekend.
Will these work on the larger uhual trailer that offer hydronic breaks.
No need, the uhaul trailers have "surge brakes" built in, no electric brakes installed to control
one problem you failed to cover. where is the power coming from to actually operate the brakes?? a small battery in that device you mounted to the trailer?? in Colorado with a tandem axle trailer how long is that battery going to last??
trailer sits for a couple months that battery is going to be dead.
One pin in all 7 pin adapters is for power and is supposed to be rated for at least 20 amps.
@@Webcrawler45 I am helping a friend install on a Toyota he bought. The controller came with the controller and no instructions. When the Toyota has no plug, I have it wired but I don't know where to get the power to the plug in from the vehicle to operate it. Any ideas? I ran a wire from the battery to power the unit, but how does the power come from the brakes
Only good if you have one trailer you use for everything.
when you see a guy in a dually towing something you dont pay it much mind but when you see a guy with an suv youd better get your camera ready because theres a good chance something funny or spectacular is about to happen. in fact i would suggest going a step further and buying a set of blue jean overalls. i mean certainly dont stand there in a suit and tie unless you want me and the whole world watching you
I have a 2009 tundra 5.7 4x4 WITHOUT factory towing package which it's very rare in tundra from the year especially with the 5.7. I didn't realize it until way after I bought it. It has 4.10 gears instead of 4.30 and no 7 pin connector. I only pull a 5x10 open utility for my tools that I dont think weighs more than 3000 total but I'm always thinking of getting a bigger tandem axle trailer and it bothers me that I dont have brake controller prewire and no 7 pin.
Tundra 5.7 never came with a gear other than 4:30
8:28 who doesn’t like “a lot of boost”??
Electric brakes on a boat trailer don't seem like a good idea since your going in and out of water with it.
its low voltage and the wiring SHOULD be heat shrinked/soldered.
its usually fine
good practice would be to un plug trailer before backing into the water and it should be fine. remember that even without electric brakes, the trailer has brake, turn and marker lights and they are fine
@@Black70Fastback Yes, all that and disconnecting the electrical before dipping the trailer is best practice. Not only to keep from shorting things out but also to keep incandescent bulbs and lenses from getting temperature shock.
@@killer2600 I learned that one the hard way. Of course the first time it happened I swapped out my lights for LEDs, so I never learned that trick.
Sweet wireless braking system.
I guess if you want one more thing to plug in somewhere
Every body agree
How does it know when you hit the brakes
It senses your brake lights. From there, in the box mounted to the side of the trailer, is an inertia sensor. I've been using this exact set up for a few years now on my camper trailer. Modern tow vehicles that don't have a controller built in, there is very little room to mount a controller in a convenient spot (especially so that you can get to the manual override quickly and safely)
It's great if you are using multiple tow vehicles on one trailer.
There is an issue with pairing on some vehicle that have LED brake lights. There is not enough voltage for the box to sense when the driver hits the brake pedal. The VW Touareg is one such vehicle. The solution is to use another vehicle with a 7 pin to do the inital pairing. Once it's paired it will work with any tow vehicle. Including the VW Touareg
Andre mentioned this doesn't work with if you already have a controller in the tow vehicle. This is incorrect. The box mounted on the side of the trailer will sense if there is a controler in the tow vehicle and if there is, it will bypass and you will use the tow vehicles controller. I've done this many times.
It appears to be plugged in to the electrical system where the manufacturer left a connector for a regular brake controller.
@@glenm2229 Nope. Not at all.
Surge brakes have to be the worst invention ever put on a highway, outside of the Prius of course. I rented a Uhaul with surge brakes once, and coming down from the Eisenhower tunnel, I was glad when the brakes finally got hot enough that they stopped working, because I kept having to accelerate down the hill.
My phone would unpair from my Tacoma all the time, what if this came unpaired while towing? Could be dangerous on a steep hill.
Its "paired" just be matching RF frequency, not through bluetooth. So if something interfered, once that interference went away, the frequency would still be paired. Also, the "brain" is on the tongue and detects both inertia and brake lights, so the brakes will still work even if the remote got unplugged from power. The remote is only for setup, changing braking levels, and manual over-ride. I had the same unit on my work truck, and only ever had to use the remote going up hills, to turn off the "boost" feature, because my 4-way flashers would cause the brakes to pulse with boost enabled.
Using RF is not as reliable as hard wired connections. This system uses 3.2Ghz from what I understand which might be unlicensed spectrum, so that bandwidth not used for a lot of things yet in the world. However 3.2Ghz signal is used for things like radar systems and probably some other devices similar to this brake controller. All you'd need for a problem is a strong enough 3.2Ghz signal to add enough interference where your driving and you could have a communication problem. It would be really rare with not too many things operating on 3.2Ghz range, but who knows with new devices popping up all the time. Maybe years down the road more things using 3.2Ghz would be an issue noted by more people.
How about intellihitch?
Intellihitch is another solution we use for controlling trailer brakes.
Good Golly Miss Molly hahahahahaha
As soon as you have to hard mount any part of this thing you defeat the purpose of wireless.
Fester cheaper and safer to wire it.
hydraulic is the way to go! period !
Did you not listen to his cons about surge brakes?
Like the video and brake controller, but I wouldn't exactly call that wireless, I'd call it easy to install or do it yourself install.
As he said, you don't need to run wires though your dash and vehicle. And it is wirelessly connected to the controller on the trailer.
Not sure that wireless controller would be considered legal in all states
it is, the wireless is only for the remote. The brakes work with the last setting wether the wireless hand held device is plug in or not.
anything wireless on a moving vehicle is bad. It's hackable most times security is low on their feature list. How long is it supported with firmware updates ?
Like that's a problem, people buying new vehicles haven't realized they're totally hackable, what company was that who hacked the Jeeps a few years ago and took control over the vehicle's acceleration, braking, etc.? That's real, and today's vehicles are extremely vulnerable to that stuff...the more and more electronic crap added to vehicles the more vulnerable to being hacked.
@@wildbill23c that was this one www.wired.com/2015/07/hackers-remotely-kill-jeep-highway. ua-cam.com/video/AdZ8nx6nRfA/v-deo.html . Most of the time all this is not designed with security in mind. Do any of those companies think about the used car market when updates are not available anymore. Cars have a longer lifespan than cellphones
Remember guys, when you are showing off tech with LEDs,. to actually say or write on screen what it says because filming these things come out unreadable for us watching you on UA-cam.
while that system is obviously better than nothing, it does not appear to have any inertia capability. aka most tekonsha products read how fast your are decelerating and apply power accordingly. in a panic stop that matters.
It does have inertia sensing.
@@ALMX5DP that's good to know!
It is inertia based that is why it has to be mounted level.
Cool idea but way to pricey .
Nothing too new these have been out for I know of about 5 years
And why are you paying to install a controller if its pre wired. Plug and play.
Misleading headline: youre NOT towing "without trailer brakes", you're towing without a permanently installed brake controller in the tow vehicle. That's a very large difference.
Regarding a hardwired controller, “you have to buy the unit, then pay the dealer to install it which can cost much more than this wireless unit”. I got an idea....INSTALL IT YOURSELF. Then I see you guys installing the wireless unit yourselves??!! Lmao. Talk about making a paid by prodigy sales pitch. Wow
Some people dont have the knowledge or capability to wire up a brake controller. This is a good solution for the recreational user.
Really? On my 08 Toyota Tundra, I pulled the brake controller out of my old truck, installed the pig-tail connector on the brake controller wires and installed 2 screws on the mounting bracket, plugged the pig-tail into the truck and it only took me 10 minutes. Today's vehicles are pre-wired in most cases for brake controllers....at least Toyota was smart enough to use the same wiring harness in their trucks regardless, so it was pre-wired for everything to tow, as well as add any accessories to turn a base model truck into a limited by just buying the accessory and plugging it in.
“Notice kiss your as...”
The Curt Echo looks a lot simpler and higher tech.
Won't be long until somebody figures out how to hack it and put on 100% brakes from far away
or it just accidently happens because the person next to you is causing interference because they have the same piece of equipment installed.
Blow the 12v outlet fuse and boom...no brakes
I cant wait to hack it . Fun times ahead watch out for sudden or no braking
Idk about you guys but I don’t like this guy , he sounds boring