To prevent the noise at the end of travel you can put caps on the stops. Have a look for "Rubber Hex Nut Cover Protective Caps for Bolts M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12",. I'm not sure which is the correct size but a box of various sizes will only cost a few quid.
I purchased Asetek environment for my beginning set-up. unfortunately I got the La Prima set and felt I outgrew that promptly. Bought the upgrades and traded my La Prima wheelbase for the next one up. I am happy - more or less. I love the feel of the pedals. What I DON'T LIKE is that they are on one plate. I am giving serious thought to selling these and purchasing the separate ones. I learned to race driving enduro karts, so I two-foot drive anyway, and separating them would be more "natural" - for me. I use steering wheel clutch so no clutch pedal is needed. I have the softest elastomer in the brake. That plus the hydralics give you a bit of initial give, then the pedal gets very stiff very quickly. But I've found that to be a plus, not a minus. That initial "travel" reproduces my real brakes nicely, and the hardness is like racing pads on a race car. You even need to get some heat into them for them to work properly.
Im the same I judged heavy brakes so much. Then actually putting time into it i realized the consitency i gained and i always found my biggest issues when braking. With more travel i wouldnt change my trailing speed per corner. I was stuck doing longer slower trailing so it was taking 10th after 10th off of my tkmes. I also had a habbit of atill trailing or staying on the brake past the apex. Well the stiffer brske changed all of that for me snd made me realize all of ths speed i was losing on some corners. I ewalized how much that alst little bit of braking matters wether its coming off and holding more speed or braking harder but still coming off before the apex. Now i can say im never missing the apex beacause of it and im nailing my braking now.
If I can give some advice I think you need a softer elastomer, the hole reason they are hydraulic is the 2 stage braking. In the footage shown you are not reaching the second stage, so you might as well use a normal elastomer pedal set. I think you will love them even more.
@@dannyleeracingYeah if you love them no reason to change, just wanted to inform you might be missing out, the 2 stage is fantastic for threshold breaking.
First time I've had an opportunity to test Invicta pedals and they are gorgeus! I drive only GT and it's characteristic fit perfectly. I bought Forte version, because of Invicta's high price, keeping in mind it is possible to upgrade the brake in future. But as I started using Forte, I am not convienced I want to spent another $350 for hydraulic module. Standard elastomer works more than fine. You would enjoy this LED strip in standard version, where it's more exposed between the feet. In "S" version it's more quirk than a feature. But looks great, for sure xD Asetek makes extremely good equipment.
Just a word of caution for anyone considering these. As Danny explains, they are very much a love it or hate it pedal set, and they are absolutely insanely stiff with very very short travel. If you do order them, and find out they are not for you, Asetek will deduct 20% of the value for you to return them based on them being "used". An expensive experiment. As for my personal opinion, I could not stand these pedals. They feel dead, they barely move, and if you have any braking zones that require variations of braking force you will feel a distinct "click" from the hydraulic piston seal as you move back and forth. This is noticable under foot and even visible on brake pressure traces as little bumps. I spent a weekend trying to get used to these but ended up returning them and eating the 20% loss. I bought a set of Simgrade VX-Pro's and have been amazingly pleased with them. They can be set up as hard as the Invictas should you want, or softer than the Fanatec V3's. Completely smooth through all the range of movement, and a nice clear second stage.
That 'love it or hate it' line is probably the main reason I stress the point so much - there's a clear 'type' these are aimed it and folks need to be real about whether it's them or not. Personally I am absolutely in love with these, but I understand that I operate in the goldilocks zone where these pedals are just sublime. I genuinely cannot understand what's happening with the brake pedal feel - when you're not driving, the pedal feels 'wrong' somehow - just like how you described - but when you ARE driving and you're just letting your muscles do what they do, it is just SUPERB to me, but it sounds like you could still feel the 'engagement'. I've never been so confident and smooth on the brakes, and never been so confused as to exactly how.
@@dannyleeracing It is funny that little "click", if you use the pedals as Asetek describe, just mash them down and then slowly peel back the force, you can't notice it. But if you do any braking where you are varying the force, say going from 0 to 60 to 20 and then up to 60% again then you will start noticing a little stickyness in the travel. Once you feel it you can't "un-feel" it. Now one caveat is that I thought my pedals were broken due to this, the click was both audible and clearly noticeable. Asetek assured me they were fine, but as I was also trying to get my money back for the pedals without eating a 20% restock fee then they might have simply lied to me to avoid taking responsibility. I have no way of knowing. Forgot to say, good review :) I think you covered the nature of these pedals well, and made it clear they aren't for everyone.
I am currently in the market for an upgrade from my G27 pedals. This pedal was one I was considering as well as the simagic one. But after seeing this video I am leaning towards the simagic p1000's. They can be made more stiff if needed. And to be honest I have no idea what I prefer. Ive only ever used the G27 pedals and thought they were ok, not great but I have nothing to compare to. I am leary about laying out $1,000 on a set of pedals and find I hate them. Im going to upgrade to a direct drive setup as well but wanted to start with some pedals. Simagic seems to have a good eco system for a mid ranger like me. I dont want entry level and I dont want to mortgage my house for a game : ) .
@@tracer0017 I got my Invicta set about a month ago (coming from a G29) and I hated the brake pedal for the first few days. BUT as I was experimenting with them and accepting the fact that a brake pedal doesn't have to move, I found them to be almost "op"? Even though I thought I'd needed a lot of travel in my pedals, I ended up adjusting them harder and harder to a straight-up wall. My pedal won't move no matter how hard I try, and I feel like that way is the most precise. Think about it for a sec, is controlling your braking force easier when your foot stays in the same position, or do you think you can handle your strength better when your foot constantly changes its position? I found the brick wall to be perfect xD
@@dannyleeracing i can completely agree with you on your last point. when your not driving and completely focusing on the pedal it feels wrong. but when you drive it just clicks. i got the long travel kit + the softest elastomer and i think it will be preferred by '' most ''
For me personally, pedals are important but not the most important. Especially since j have nerve damage in both my feet. Because i have nerve damage the vibration affect Fanatec offeres when connected to their DD1 wheel base(and i would assume other wheel bases) is key. I set that vibration to 65% so i know when i reach that point. Surprisingly (I mostly play acc) l dont activate the ABS on mantly corners which seems to be rare in ACC.. I find my best lap times come when im not engaging the ABS on every corner. While ill never be the fastest due to my physical limitations cause by injury and my age. I had ro swap my clutch for the throttle to hey better feel
Is there any benefit of the hydraulics when it comes to non ABS cars? Especially in IRacing I have substantial trouble not locking tires. Feels like a light switch on and off.
Yes, braking more accurately has huge benefits in non-ABS cars as sometimes being 5% over the limit can make the difference. A pedal set that allows you to finely and consistently reproduce the braking force through your whole leg will help you out massively.
You mentioned the throttle and clutch are plugged into the brake, are the cables long enough to switch positions on the clutch and throttle? O've had my eye on these for a while but i always mount my pedals inverted so i need to be able to do that.
To me a huge part of a well designed pedal set is if it can be adjusted to suit anyone’s tastes and mimic any car. At the price they are charging for these they should include the long travel kit and other elastomers. At this price absolutely every single adjustment option should be included. From what I’ve seen even with those pricey optional extras the travel is still extremely limited and can not accurately mimic the pedal travel of a GT3 car, judging from the on-boards I’ve seen. Even F1 cars have more pedal travel judging by lando Norris’s onboard pedal cam. It may work well and they may be well suited to sim racing but this lack of adjustability at this price point is just unacceptable IMO. It’s also not a limitation of hydraulic brake pedals, other hydraulic brakes do not have this issue.
Had those, started leaking after about one year of use. Couldn't get replacement parts from asetek. Had to go through the retailer. Would have meant weeks without pedals. Bought the Simucube AP instead. Avoid this product!
Who was the retailer and what happened in the end regarding repair? Surprised to hear that Asetek couldn't directly help considering it was a warranty issue, they have built a good reputation support-wise so it would be good to know more
@@dannyleeracing I did not went to the (internet) retailer. Too much hassle for me. I have no doubt it would be covered by warrenty but it would have taken time meaning me without pedals for days if not weeks. Asetek sells the part as upgrade so it would have been easy for them to exchange the part directly. These pedals will leak eventually it's just unavoidable wear on the seals.
And it's a shame because I really liked the feel of these pedals after a small modification . Replaced the elastomers with a stiff spring and that got rid of that strange feel in the pedal when the elastomer bulges and binds inside the cylinder.
Sort of new to sim racing so still learning ‘the trade’ and have the la prima peddles and I find them too hard to deal with at times, I suspect it’s more to do with the angle I have them at i.e standard cockpit angle so these ‘are not for me’….yet…but damn they look sexier than a sexed up sexy thing wrapped in a feathery duvet filled with lard and whipping cream!
They're F n crap, DO NOT BUY THESE PEDALS. They're too hard for sim racing and you will have a very hard time trail braking with these. 150hours in ACC and these still give me issues with trail braking, jumped on a mates rig and i could trail brake fine with a load cell brake. Invicta pedals are meant to be like "ReAl RaCe cAr" pedals but it's bs, you have g forces helping you out in a real car, even a few pro racers have commented on these pedals being not realistic for GT3's.
@@guitarsimon1 I love the steering wheel and pedals of regular cars. Is it so difficult to make similar ones? I am sure there are many people who would like them.
Not yet, but I'm sure I'll get around to that one day! My P1000's are currently out of action anyway due to a load cell failure. That actually sped up my transition to the Invictas....
@@paulyskidda387 invicta’s are much stiffer. P1000s are stiff enough but a lot of customisation with the ridiculous amount of elastomers you get. But in terms of braking consistency both are good enough. Matter of preference in feel. With the haptics installed it’s a no brainier. No need to buy extra mounting brackets or control box if you have P1000s
To prevent the noise at the end of travel you can put caps on the stops.
Have a look for "Rubber Hex Nut Cover Protective Caps for Bolts M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12",.
I'm not sure which is the correct size but a box of various sizes will only cost a few quid.
Good tip!
I purchased Asetek environment for my beginning set-up. unfortunately I got the La Prima set and felt I outgrew that promptly. Bought the upgrades and traded my La Prima wheelbase for the next one up. I am happy - more or less. I love the feel of the pedals. What I DON'T LIKE is that they are on one plate. I am giving serious thought to selling these and purchasing the separate ones. I learned to race driving enduro karts, so I two-foot drive anyway, and separating them would be more "natural" - for me. I use steering wheel clutch so no clutch pedal is needed.
I have the softest elastomer in the brake. That plus the hydralics give you a bit of initial give, then the pedal gets very stiff very quickly. But I've found that to be a plus, not a minus. That initial "travel" reproduces my real brakes nicely, and the hardness is like racing pads on a race car. You even need to get some heat into them for them to work properly.
Im the same I judged heavy brakes so much. Then actually putting time into it i realized the consitency i gained and i always found my biggest issues when braking. With more travel i wouldnt change my trailing speed per corner. I was stuck doing longer slower trailing so it was taking 10th after 10th off of my tkmes. I also had a habbit of atill trailing or staying on the brake past the apex. Well the stiffer brske changed all of that for me snd made me realize all of ths speed i was losing on some corners. I ewalized how much that alst little bit of braking matters wether its coming off and holding more speed or braking harder but still coming off before the apex. Now i can say im never missing the apex beacause of it and im nailing my braking now.
Wow, those pedals sure are beautiful. As a design engineer who design aluminum castings I can admire these even more.❤
If I can give some advice I think you need a softer elastomer, the hole reason they are hydraulic is the 2 stage braking. In the footage shown you are not reaching the second stage, so you might as well use a normal elastomer pedal set. I think you will love them even more.
Thanks for the spot, I'll have a look and experiment with them at some point but I gotta say I love them as-is!
@@dannyleeracingYeah if you love them no reason to change, just wanted to inform you might be missing out, the 2 stage is fantastic for threshold breaking.
First time I've had an opportunity to test Invicta pedals and they are gorgeus! I drive only GT and it's characteristic fit perfectly. I bought Forte version, because of Invicta's high price, keeping in mind it is possible to upgrade the brake in future. But as I started using Forte, I am not convienced I want to spent another $350 for hydraulic module. Standard elastomer works more than fine.
You would enjoy this LED strip in standard version, where it's more exposed between the feet. In "S" version it's more quirk than a feature. But looks great, for sure xD Asetek makes extremely good equipment.
I loved the La Prima pedals and they use the same system as the Forte!
@@dannyleeracingI’m very happy with the La Prima pedals. Strongly considering the Forte upgrade.
@@matthewbrennan6466 if you feel gas pedal is not resistant, then go ahead. But if you are okay with it, then it makes no sense 😀
Just a word of caution for anyone considering these. As Danny explains, they are very much a love it or hate it pedal set, and they are absolutely insanely stiff with very very short travel. If you do order them, and find out they are not for you, Asetek will deduct 20% of the value for you to return them based on them being "used". An expensive experiment.
As for my personal opinion, I could not stand these pedals. They feel dead, they barely move, and if you have any braking zones that require variations of braking force you will feel a distinct "click" from the hydraulic piston seal as you move back and forth. This is noticable under foot and even visible on brake pressure traces as little bumps. I spent a weekend trying to get used to these but ended up returning them and eating the 20% loss. I bought a set of Simgrade VX-Pro's and have been amazingly pleased with them. They can be set up as hard as the Invictas should you want, or softer than the Fanatec V3's. Completely smooth through all the range of movement, and a nice clear second stage.
That 'love it or hate it' line is probably the main reason I stress the point so much - there's a clear 'type' these are aimed it and folks need to be real about whether it's them or not. Personally I am absolutely in love with these, but I understand that I operate in the goldilocks zone where these pedals are just sublime.
I genuinely cannot understand what's happening with the brake pedal feel - when you're not driving, the pedal feels 'wrong' somehow - just like how you described - but when you ARE driving and you're just letting your muscles do what they do, it is just SUPERB to me, but it sounds like you could still feel the 'engagement'. I've never been so confident and smooth on the brakes, and never been so confused as to exactly how.
@@dannyleeracing It is funny that little "click", if you use the pedals as Asetek describe, just mash them down and then slowly peel back the force, you can't notice it. But if you do any braking where you are varying the force, say going from 0 to 60 to 20 and then up to 60% again then you will start noticing a little stickyness in the travel. Once you feel it you can't "un-feel" it. Now one caveat is that I thought my pedals were broken due to this, the click was both audible and clearly noticeable. Asetek assured me they were fine, but as I was also trying to get my money back for the pedals without eating a 20% restock fee then they might have simply lied to me to avoid taking responsibility. I have no way of knowing.
Forgot to say, good review :) I think you covered the nature of these pedals well, and made it clear they aren't for everyone.
I am currently in the market for an upgrade from my G27 pedals. This pedal was one I was considering as well as the simagic one. But after seeing this video I am leaning towards the simagic p1000's. They can be made more stiff if needed. And to be honest I have no idea what I prefer. Ive only ever used the G27 pedals and thought they were ok, not great but I have nothing to compare to. I am leary about laying out $1,000 on a set of pedals and find I hate them. Im going to upgrade to a direct drive setup as well but wanted to start with some pedals. Simagic seems to have a good eco system for a mid ranger like me. I dont want entry level and I dont want to mortgage my house for a game : ) .
@@tracer0017 I got my Invicta set about a month ago (coming from a G29) and I hated the brake pedal for the first few days. BUT as I was experimenting with them and accepting the fact that a brake pedal doesn't have to move, I found them to be almost "op"?
Even though I thought I'd needed a lot of travel in my pedals, I ended up adjusting them harder and harder to a straight-up wall. My pedal won't move no matter how hard I try, and I feel like that way is the most precise. Think about it for a sec, is controlling your braking force easier when your foot stays in the same position, or do you think you can handle your strength better when your foot constantly changes its position?
I found the brick wall to be perfect xD
@@dannyleeracing i can completely agree with you on your last point. when your not driving and completely focusing on the pedal it feels wrong. but when you drive it just clicks. i got the long travel kit + the softest elastomer and i think it will be preferred by '' most ''
Big fan of my forte pedals, hope one day to go to the invictas
I loved the La Prima pedals, but these definitely are better for me!
For me personally, pedals are important but not the most important. Especially since j have nerve damage in both my feet.
Because i have nerve damage the vibration affect Fanatec offeres when connected to their DD1 wheel base(and i would assume other wheel bases) is key.
I set that vibration to 65% so i know when i reach that point.
Surprisingly (I mostly play acc) l dont activate the ABS on mantly corners which seems to be rare in ACC.. I find my best lap times come when im not engaging the ABS on every corner.
While ill never be the fastest due to my physical limitations cause by injury and my age. I had ro swap my clutch for the throttle to hey better feel
Is there any benefit of the hydraulics when it comes to non ABS cars? Especially in IRacing I have substantial trouble not locking tires. Feels like a light switch on and off.
Yes, braking more accurately has huge benefits in non-ABS cars as sometimes being 5% over the limit can make the difference. A pedal set that allows you to finely and consistently reproduce the braking force through your whole leg will help you out massively.
How long is your discount code valid for? I don't have money to buy until next month XD
It'll always be valid! No rush
@@dannyleeracing Thank you so much, your video solidified my idea to buy it!
You mentioned the throttle and clutch are plugged into the brake, are the cables long enough to switch positions on the clutch and throttle? O've had my eye on these for a while but i always mount my pedals inverted so i need to be able to do that.
I believe they are invert-friendly, their product page says so too! www.asetek.com/simsports/product/invicta-s-series-brake-throttle/
If I'm on pc and run fanatec gear are these compatible?
Yep, PC can mix and match
To me a huge part of a well designed pedal set is if it can be adjusted to suit anyone’s tastes and mimic any car. At the price they are charging for these they should include the long travel kit and other elastomers. At this price absolutely every single adjustment option should be included. From what I’ve seen even with those pricey optional extras the travel is still extremely limited and can not accurately mimic the pedal travel of a GT3 car, judging from the on-boards I’ve seen. Even F1 cars have more pedal travel judging by lando Norris’s onboard pedal cam. It may work well and they may be well suited to sim racing but this lack of adjustability at this price point is just unacceptable IMO. It’s also not a limitation of hydraulic brake pedals, other hydraulic brakes do not have this issue.
Had those, started leaking after about one year of use. Couldn't get replacement parts from asetek. Had to go through the retailer. Would have meant weeks without pedals. Bought the Simucube AP instead. Avoid this product!
Who was the retailer and what happened in the end regarding repair? Surprised to hear that Asetek couldn't directly help considering it was a warranty issue, they have built a good reputation support-wise so it would be good to know more
@@dannyleeracing I did not went to the (internet) retailer. Too much hassle for me. I have no doubt it would be covered by warrenty but it would have taken time meaning me without pedals for days if not weeks. Asetek sells the part as upgrade so it would have been easy for them to exchange the part directly. These pedals will leak eventually it's just unavoidable wear on the seals.
And it's a shame because I really liked the feel of these pedals after a small modification . Replaced the elastomers with a stiff spring and that got rid of that strange feel in the pedal when the elastomer bulges and binds inside the cylinder.
you know, that automotive sensor you mention, pressure sensor, it should not cost more than $5. these are still too expenwive
Sort of new to sim racing so still learning ‘the trade’ and have the la prima peddles and I find them too hard to deal with at times, I suspect it’s more to do with the angle I have them at i.e standard cockpit angle so these ‘are not for me’….yet…but damn they look sexier than a sexed up sexy thing wrapped in a feathery duvet filled with lard and whipping cream!
They're F n crap, DO NOT BUY THESE PEDALS. They're too hard for sim racing and you will have a very hard time trail braking with these. 150hours in ACC and these still give me issues with trail braking, jumped on a mates rig and i could trail brake fine with a load cell brake. Invicta pedals are meant to be like "ReAl RaCe cAr" pedals but it's bs, you have g forces helping you out in a real car, even a few pro racers have commented on these pedals being not realistic for GT3's.
Real car pedals are not this complicated and this expensive. There is something seriously wrong here but apparently no one else is aware.
Perhaps not in a road car but in a high performance race car they're more complicated and considerably more expensive.
@@guitarsimon1 I love the steering wheel and pedals of regular cars. Is it so difficult to make similar ones? I am sure there are many people who would like them.
have you tried the p1000s hydraulics mate?
Not yet, but I'm sure I'll get around to that one day! My P1000's are currently out of action anyway due to a load cell failure. That actually sped up my transition to the Invictas....
@@dannyleeracing ahhh I get you! I’ve got them now but a bit of a shakey start with them haha
Where do you rate the P1000 to the invictas. Without the haptics. Just performance?
@@paulyskidda387 invicta’s are much stiffer. P1000s are stiff enough but a lot of customisation with the ridiculous amount of elastomers you get. But in terms of braking consistency both are good enough. Matter of preference in feel. With the haptics installed it’s a no brainier. No need to buy extra mounting brackets or control box if you have P1000s
The stickiness goes away. Once the fluid gets worked in.
Send me Them!!! They are decently not for my budget but for my driving🥲