I have a 2019 ford transit connect and the petcock is on the passenger side. Like you said in the video, I had to turn mine 360 degrees and I needed pliers to do so. I thought I might break something but everything turned out great.
Thanks! Does the resivoir filler cap just unscrew? I try to unscrew mine and it unscrews but then stops turning and wont come off. Is there some special way it has to be pushed down or something or is mine just stuck somehow? Thanks
The pressure cap? Should be that you can unscrew it to the stop, then wiggle upward and it should come off. Or it threads all the way off like on my 2001 and 1997 Fords. I don't have this van anymore so it's been a minute since I looked at this. I would try to wiggle up once you hit the stop.
Unless you also drain the coolant out of the block, you are going to have some coolant still in the system. I would not recommend adding water unless you intend to pull a block drain and get all the coolant out. If you are doing that, flush with demineralized water as standard water will contain minerals and such that will help cause corrosion over long periods of time. Then you would drain out all the demineralized water, then fill with fresh coolant.
Hi quick question I have a 2016 transit 250, I have VC-3DIL-B the orange one in the reservoir but I need to top off, and my question is , can I top off with the yellow one VC13DL-G????
Yes, that should work if you are using the same orange coolant that my van originally was filled with. It is compatible with the newer yellow coolant. What you have listed in your question is parts numbers. What's more important are the coolant standards that should be printed on the back of the coolant jugs. Below is the official Ford document that talks about this: www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/quickref/FCSD%20Motorcraft%20Yellow%20Antifreeze-Coolant%20Backward%20Compatability.pdf
The coolant overflow bottle is located near the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. It is the only location where you can fill the cooling system actually. The tank you see in the thumbnail for this video is the coolant overflow tank.
Can you tell me where the coolant reservoir runs? I know one connects into the overflow tank, and 1 end runs behind the engine, where does the other one runs? Thanks you
Should be two connections off the degas bottle. One is the connection from the radiator, other should be the main line that connects down into a central line that is connected to block and bottom of the radiator. I would go take a look to verify that for you but I no longer own this van.
As long as the green stuff meets ford's standard for this vehicle, sure. I would check that very closely. The wrong coolant in a system can lead to failures due to bad interactions with metals or the coolant attacking seals made of certain materials.
I noticed that my coolant level is about halfway between empty and full. Would you say that I should fill it up or it doesn't matter as long as it's still above the empty symbol? I called Ford and they told me to just fill it up with water and not to add coolant.
As long as you are above the cold fill line when the engine is cold, you are fine. I would add premixed 50/50 coolant though. Not sure why Ford told you to add straight water.
@@MazdaB3K Is coolant something that gets used up and therefore I would have the level drop over time? Bc I'm wondering if I can just wait until the next oil change interval. And you had to exchange all of the fluid at 100k bc it's so used up that it's recommended you replace it with new fluid?
Coolant should not deplete over time as long as the system is sealed and does not sit for a long time (think years). Coolant gets "used up" by the additives in the coolant that are use for antirust and anti freezing getting depleted. As coolant picks up contaminants, over time it can actually become acidic and start doing damage to your engine versus protecting it. That's why it's important to change at the OEM interval or earlier. But if your coolant level is relatively stable you can wait until your oil change to do a drain and fill. At worst you'll need to top it off until it's oil change time.
Yup. The way you can look at it is as the system runs and the water pump moves coolant around bubbles will eventually make their way to the highest point in the system. The highest point is the coolant bottle. So for air to stay there, coolant has to be displaced to fill in the air that moved. In that way, the air eventually gets auto-burped into the coolant bottle. All you have to do as the operator is top off the coolant bottle once or twice after the initial drain and fill and you are good to go. One caveat to this is if you drain almost all coolant by also opening the block drains. Once you drain that much out, you do need to watch out for large air bubbles. If a bubble is large enough you might need to shut the engine down after it runs for a few minutes, add coolant and try again. I just went through this process on my 1997 E-150.
As you do this, particularly if you open the block drains is to make sure you pay attention to your engine temps. I would recommend some sort of OBD2 reader with live data. If you see temps clearing 220F or so, it's time to shut down and figure out if you have a large air bubble or something is up with your thermostat.
Good stuff man! About to start this work on my vehicle!
Good luck!
I have a 2019 ford transit connect and the petcock is on the passenger side. Like you said in the video, I had to turn mine 360 degrees and I needed pliers to do so. I thought I might break something but everything turned out great.
Good to know this video works for 2019's. Does the 2019 still have the little purge line on it or did they change that?
@@MazdaB3K Yes, it looks like the 2019 has the same coolant tank/purge line
Thanks! Does the resivoir filler cap just unscrew? I try to unscrew mine and it unscrews but then stops turning and wont come off. Is there some special way it has to be pushed down or something or is mine just stuck somehow? Thanks
The pressure cap? Should be that you can unscrew it to the stop, then wiggle upward and it should come off. Or it threads all the way off like on my 2001 and 1997 Fords. I don't have this van anymore so it's been a minute since I looked at this. I would try to wiggle up once you hit the stop.
Well done...thank you. Will it help/hurt to run clean water through the radiator before adding the new anti-freeze? thanks again..
Unless you also drain the coolant out of the block, you are going to have some coolant still in the system. I would not recommend adding water unless you intend to pull a block drain and get all the coolant out. If you are doing that, flush with demineralized water as standard water will contain minerals and such that will help cause corrosion over long periods of time. Then you would drain out all the demineralized water, then fill with fresh coolant.
Thanks a bunch
You are great explaining!! Really helpful. Thanks.
I tend to over-explain normally lol. Glad this video helped you out.
Thanks
I'm glad this video helped you out.
Hi quick question I have a 2016 transit 250, I have VC-3DIL-B the orange one in the reservoir but I need to top off, and my question is , can I top off with the yellow one VC13DL-G????
Yes, that should work if you are using the same orange coolant that my van originally was filled with. It is compatible with the newer yellow coolant. What you have listed in your question is parts numbers. What's more important are the coolant standards that should be printed on the back of the coolant jugs. Below is the official Ford document that talks about this:
www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/quickref/FCSD%20Motorcraft%20Yellow%20Antifreeze-Coolant%20Backward%20Compatability.pdf
I have a 2015, 2.5 L
Is there a coolant overflow tube on this engine? Recently had a coolant spill in driveway, could not locate a leak anywhere.
The coolant overflow bottle is located near the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. It is the only location where you can fill the cooling system actually. The tank you see in the thumbnail for this video is the coolant overflow tank.
Can you tell me where the coolant reservoir runs? I know one connects into the overflow tank, and 1 end runs behind the engine, where does the other one runs? Thanks you
Should be two connections off the degas bottle. One is the connection from the radiator, other should be the main line that connects down into a central line that is connected to block and bottom of the radiator. I would go take a look to verify that for you but I no longer own this van.
A way you can verify this is to look up the lower radiator hose at a car part house.. it should show you what goes where by looking at the part.
I used the green stuff instead of the orange Ford label stuff should be okay though
As long as the green stuff meets ford's standard for this vehicle, sure. I would check that very closely. The wrong coolant in a system can lead to failures due to bad interactions with metals or the coolant attacking seals made of certain materials.
I noticed that my coolant level is about halfway between empty and full. Would you say that I should fill it up or it doesn't matter as long as it's still above the empty symbol? I called Ford and they told me to just fill it up with water and not to add coolant.
As long as you are above the cold fill line when the engine is cold, you are fine. I would add premixed 50/50 coolant though. Not sure why Ford told you to add straight water.
@@MazdaB3K Is coolant something that gets used up and therefore I would have the level drop over time? Bc I'm wondering if I can just wait until the next oil change interval. And you had to exchange all of the fluid at 100k bc it's so used up that it's recommended you replace it with new fluid?
Coolant should not deplete over time as long as the system is sealed and does not sit for a long time (think years). Coolant gets "used up" by the additives in the coolant that are use for antirust and anti freezing getting depleted. As coolant picks up contaminants, over time it can actually become acidic and start doing damage to your engine versus protecting it. That's why it's important to change at the OEM interval or earlier. But if your coolant level is relatively stable you can wait until your oil change to do a drain and fill. At worst you'll need to top it off until it's oil change time.
So pretty much no special tools needed to bleed the system? It bleeds itself? Because that’d be great
Yup. The way you can look at it is as the system runs and the water pump moves coolant around bubbles will eventually make their way to the highest point in the system. The highest point is the coolant bottle. So for air to stay there, coolant has to be displaced to fill in the air that moved. In that way, the air eventually gets auto-burped into the coolant bottle. All you have to do as the operator is top off the coolant bottle once or twice after the initial drain and fill and you are good to go.
One caveat to this is if you drain almost all coolant by also opening the block drains. Once you drain that much out, you do need to watch out for large air bubbles. If a bubble is large enough you might need to shut the engine down after it runs for a few minutes, add coolant and try again. I just went through this process on my 1997 E-150.
@@MazdaB3K that’s awesome thank you!
As you do this, particularly if you open the block drains is to make sure you pay attention to your engine temps. I would recommend some sort of OBD2 reader with live data. If you see temps clearing 220F or so, it's time to shut down and figure out if you have a large air bubble or something is up with your thermostat.
Hey have you done a starter on yours yet?
Not yet, still have the original with 123k on it. Looking like I might have a battery swap in my future though :(