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Thanks! I intend to get working on this one soon. I've had to deal with some other needy vehicles recently but getting this one to move under it's own power would be nice as I need it to move. I have since this video put fresh rubber under it so it sits off the ground now. Weathered Hurricane Helene as well. Proper Florida native now.

Nope. Swampy north Florida for me. What's a Chicharraz?

I appreciate the kind words. I do what I can.

Perhaps... but the trimmer is working fine so... maybe I know a little of what I'm doing. Follow the video or not, it's up to you.

It should be that the unit will power up as long as it's getting power from your house. If it's not, my guess would be your control board is bad or you have a loose connection going to the control board.

I used 10 gauge because I had it lying around.

Is that what 90 degree pliers are called? Never knew their actual name.

Motorcraft item is Ford F87Z-18495-AA Heater Control Valve Assembly. There are clones of it offered by various manufactures as well.

​@MazdaB3K Thank I have the same problem, but in reverse.

This has surprisingly turned out to be one of my most popular videos. Glad that it helped you out.

If you have the E4OD, yes. Button is located on the panel next to the steering column. If you got C6, no overdrive button as the C6 doesn't have an overdrive. Both transmissions were offered in '89

Yup

De nada.

For that one is mainly clicking and popping while turning and accelerating. I was also getting popping when accelerating or letting off the gas.

@@MazdaB3K Was there any fluid lost when you removed the axles?

@jean-pierrehall2914 yes, expect to lose some unless you drain it down prior to axle removal. I just did the cv axle on my wife's 2010 fusion. It has the same 6f35 transmission and it lost about 2 quarts when I pulled the driver axle.

Glad that I was able to help.

You are most welcome.

Engine in question for this video is a Triton 5.4L 2-Valve.

I can't speak to the Dualies, though I should compare what I bought for the 1989 F350 I have when I redid it's rear brakes. As to the HD F250, that's going to use the wider shoes than the non-HD F250. Non-HD F250 and F150 use the same brake hardware in the back. Non-HD 250 and F-150 get semi-float axle, HD F250 and F350 get Full-Float. For 1998 and below I think in the OBS generation.

No. The blend door is designed to be pulled out towards the interior of the vehicle, and in order to do that the heater core has to move out of the way. If you wanted to try and access from the engine bay side, you would need to open AC lines, drain freon and remove the evaporator. You can see the blend door if you remove the blower motor, but you can't remove it from there.

Barbaric... First time for everything I guess. I do say in the video after I pull the console for the first time I pulled it wrong and to pull differently to avoid breaking clips. Watch me do it wrong so that you can do it right.

From what I was reading he was definitely in the mix, as was Ford. Thunderbird sounds correct for the common chassis used. I can't wait to get into this one. I have a few other projects that need a little love first though.

That I did.

@@MazdaB3Kdo you have links to the adapters by chance? Can’t seem to find these ones

Ask and ye shall receive: www.amazon.com/dp/B09MVJ18FB?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k1_1_20&amp=&crid=2NKFUM245E107&amp=&sprefix=ford+speaker+wire+ad

You are most welcome.

I tried that the first time around and while I did get the filter in, I managed many of the pleats getting it in. I salute you for being more dexterous than me.

@@MazdaB3K It's a challenge for sure. I think it might vary based on the filter manufacturer too. Some are stiffer than others. The last two I've done have seemed stiffer and more difficult to accordion into the slot.

You are most welcome.

Because of how the heater core lines are setup on Fords, it really doesn't matter. I followed what I found when I did the replacement but as long as the coolant can flow in a loop through the core you are good to go.

I remember I liked putting this solution together. It was clean and bolt in, no funny wiring or anything necessary. A little expensive because I had to buy two separate kits, but I didn't mind the cost because it was essentially a drop in solution.

Check valve is fine, though I did have to make my own HVAC vacuum tank. I made a video about that actually. Wound up strapping it under the passenger dash and no more issues with the vents going to the floor under acceleration.

Valid point, but the lock cylinder is brand new as I had to drill out the old one. Vehicle was sold to me with a frozen lock cylinder. Also had to replace the ignition switch at the base of the steering shaft and that super annoying little metal piece that broke in the tilt column to get all the ignition positioning working correctly. I'm glad this glow plug video is helping folks out because it was a PITA that I knew i had perfectly good, ford glow plugs but the controller wasn't working. My manual solution is still working just fine.

The brake booster valve is a check valve, or one way valve. It should be able to pull vacuum from the vacuum source, but not let it back out. If you blow on the valve from the brake booster side and you feel air going through, the check valve is bad and needs to be replaced.

I assume you mean you've been working the star wheel adjuster? If you turn it with the teeth it should tighten the brakes. If you turn against the teeth on the wheel that should loosen the brakes. Star wheels are sided so it's possible to install the wrong one. Ask me how I know....

Thanks for all the advice. Normally I do try to plan the work then work the plan but often when I'm filming stuff it's the first time I've ever worked on it. To remain authentic to you guys, I film it all, including the chaos of doing something for the first time and having to figure it out.

You should be able to find that information here: www.startmycar.com/us/ford/f-150/info/fusebox/2000

Glad I could help. Can't have a million mile diesel if the cylinder walls get eaten through.

Glad I could help. This was a pretty random failure.

I made another video that covers how to troubleshoot glowplugs as per the Ford shop manual. In the end though I bypassed the glow plug controller and setup a manual momentary switch in the cab. Video here: ua-cam.com/video/KyUMOYllnek/v-deo.htmlsi=6PPKw-rQNOK8stIh

There is a fill port for the low pressure side up in the engine bay, on the passenger side. If you so desired, there is another low pressure fill port under the van near the rear if I remember correctly, but you can fill the rear system from the engine bay. It's all one connected system.

If you are aiming for a complete flush, then yes that's what I would do. Do one drain and fill, drive around for a tank of gas or two, then do the next drain and fill. Rinse and repeat until you have done a total of three drain and fills. That should replace over 90% of the fluid in the transmission and you should be good to go for the next 30k.

I determined it was never in limp mode as it will shift through all the gear, just holds onto 1st for waaaaay too long. As for your situation, you need to identify why you are in limp mode and fix it. Get a OBD1 code reader and hook it up to the connector in the engine bay and see if you can pull any transmission codes. It it's not a mechanical issue, best bet is that your Shift Solenoid Pack is going bad. Pulling codes may or may not verify this as OBD1 isn't the best for telling you what's wrong.

And that is exactly what I did for many months, taught the wife to do that too... until it stopped working. That's when this video was made.

I may not have filmed it but I did check the resistance from the glow plug tip to block. When you check that you are looking for 2 ohms or less. I think I talked about it but its been awhile since I filmed this.

So... new soft lines, so they shouldn't be collapsing upon themselves. New calipers so as long as you lubed the slide pins they shouldn't be seizing... I'd take a very close look at your master cylinder. If the piston is damaged or catching on something in the bore, that's going to prevent the brakes from releasing fully. The other thing you can do is adjust the pushrod on your brake booster that pushes into the master cylinder. If that rod is too far forward, it would keep the master cylinder somewhat engaged which would cause the calipers to not release. I think I made a video about adjusting the rod on my brother's '93 OBS Ford F250 non HD. Might be this video lol. That's where I would start. Let me know what you find.

@@MazdaB3K Thank you for replying, This is fairly frustrating cause the brake systems on these are NOT that complicated! So yes I will start to look at Master, and then maybe the booster, and maybe even the OEM rear proportioning valve inside the driver frame rail. Otherwise, I am at a total loss on what else it could be... BTW, this 95 has less than 70,000 miles on it! But, it has 3500 plus hours on it from plowing lots of snow in Minn. but its NOT gonna have to work that hard anymore!

@@MegaVstromer That's true, the prop valve might be causing you grief. I've normally heard of a prop valve causing issues with the rear brakes instead of the fronts.

Glad this video can help you out.

Someone actually watched this one. Cool!

That's a pretty good idea as long as you control the heat. I'll keep that one in the toolbox.

The rear blower? I never looked specifically at how to remove that. I did notice the rear enclosure for the blower has some screws around it that are not for the evaporator case. I'd try removing those and then see where you can find seams on the case to open it out. Keep in mind they could have been madlads at the factory and not meant for it to be serviced.

@@MazdaB3K oh OK.

I have access to the wiring diagram, though, it's a bit of a process to get the pictures into a usable form. email me at mazdab3k@gmail.com and I'll see what I can do for you.

The Florida weather will rust pretty much anything that is not high grade stainless. One day I'll be able to close in my shop.... Best of luck on your brake job.

@@MazdaB3K I bought one of those 90 degree pliers, but due to the way the retainer clip was previously installed I could not get a grip on it. I disconnected the brake line behind it, pushed it back out of the way and put a cap on it to stop the leaking. Then I cut the metal tube off the brake hose and I put 19mm socket on my impact driver and spun it right off. LOL, I wish I had done that trick right away.

If you are willing to be a bit destructive there are often more options on getting something off. I had to use an air hammer recently to unstick an egr nut. Got it loose but pretty much destroyed it in the process so I had to buy a new one. Which now leaks 'cause I can tighten it enough at the exhaust manifold. I'll fix it eventually.

@@MazdaB3K well fortunately the only thing that was destroyed in my case was the old hose that I was replacing. When replacing the clip I only pushed it down enough to secure the brake line to the body, so it will be less painful to replace next time since there is much more to grab onto.

So far. However, haven't driven this one much yet. Still have quite a bit to fix before it's roadworthy.