Donovan Whitehall I've always said I'm not a survival expert. I'm just like everyone watching. We should always want to keep learning. I've always been comfortable with my own way of doing things but that gets dull if your always trying to have fresh video content.
FARMED- Functionality, Affordability, Repeatability in use, Maintainability in the field, Ergonomics, Durability over time. There is your 6 with an easy acronym brother-
I think you have given a very honest, personal review. I have watched several of you videos before, but feel that this one is the best because you are talking like you would to a person standing there with you. Thanks. You have helped me, and others, I’m sure, in making an informed purchase of a good knife among so many to choose from.
FYI: I got a format from a higher level youtuber for grading a knife that is universally applicable so I'll be using that, but I'm still reading the ideas for other stuff I like.
what about just plain awesomeness? i mean , you know that ' fuck yeah!' feeling you get when you pick up a knife you like? that alone tends to make me use a knife more than a knife that comes highly recommended. i've been lucky to have really good tools coincide with that fuck yeah feeling. so far.lol
One thing should be how well can it also be used as a defensive knife. Let's face it, if your in a survival situation you may be faced with your knife as a defensive tool. It maybe a great bushcraft knife but totally suck for a possible defensive blade, or vice versa.
I've noticed that you are moving towards bushcraft mindset. That happened to me 12 years ago after I started as a "survivalist." Keep up the good work.
I think you visiting Dave and using some of his stuff is great. These others saying things like "Your on Daves nut sac" and "This seams weird," and, "do your own thing" and "You don't need Dave" It's all a bunch of Bla,bla,bla. Dave is another resource of information. Dave can be a real asset when you want to learn more bushcraft and outdoor things. Absolutely no reason to not have a friend like that. Don't listen to the jealous, haters out there that think they know what's best for you. I like seeing you progress in knowledge. Great job.
Chris, you should have the edge of the knife facing away from your hand when you're striking a ferro-rod. You're inviting yourself to a test of your first aid kit. Also, with the blade facing away, it helps to direct the sparks a bit better than just having the thickness of the steel bouncing the sparks down.
I'll have to defer to your vast amount more experience than I have. I was mostly concerned about you lopping off a finger or two and greatly degrading the quality of your videos. :P At least wear a glove when you're doing that. I was sitting here cringing every time when you were 'sparking up'.
dude i gave you a hard time the last time i made a comment but you just gave a top shelf review of a really nice knife I'm, an F1 guy myself and there is a little learning curve with the F1 and I'm not going to switch over but if i was starting from scratch this would be at the top of the list real nice knife and not big i prefer a smaller knife than the larger ones excellent job and a friggin damn fine review you hit every applicable point that needed to be spoken on and all of your opinions were spot on with me and practical tip of the hat sir !!
Like the review, and it's good that you are expanding the way you look at knives, can only make the channel even better, surprised you didn't compare the condor bushlore as a cheap alternative comparison, know you reviewed it already, but was good to see comparisons to other knives many of us may own, thanks!
I love the intro music and intro graphics.... not real big on the sound effects tho.... being out in the woods with the sound of the natural background is great.... even the occasional helicopter, ambulance, siren and lawn mower are cool too :)
18:32 Also, for relatively the same amount of money, (depending on which version of the B.O.B. you're looking at) you're getting all of the things that the B.O.B. can do, and more.
You got some haters on the comments. Keep up the good work! I always enjoy your channel and reviews. I live in the dayton oh area so you and Daves reviews fit my needs perfectly. Thanks!
Chris, for your criteria I would suggest the following: can it baton (reasonable sized wood for the blade size also proof of durability), knife task (slice, cut and finesse task), track record (if new knife track record of the company), steel, handle/ergonomics, and why we all watch, how does it compares to Jessica (cool factor, and how much you like it).
Chris, one thing I look for is the degree of sharpness on the spine. My preferred firesteel are the Swedish Light My Fire Army 2.0 models. They are quite a bit harder than the typical firesteels. They will give a nice shower of sparks when used with the method you just demonstrated and for some tinders that works fine. I prefer the LMF brand because, with a good sharp striking edge, you can strike with a short, deep digging motion and get big globs of burning material that you can direct with great accuracy. It's the best thing that I have found for starting marginal tinder. (Like damp birchbark or wood shavings) In any case, a moderately sharp spine that might work ok on a soft firesteel won't work well using my technique. (The Bushcraft Black works great for my technique and I think makes a proper benchmark for what a sharp spine should be) Just my two cents on something that I look for. Good review by the way. I like that you are continuing to evolve your reviews and broaden their scope to encompass more than just your personal wants and needs. I like the continuous curve of that blade. With some refinement of the edge I'll bet it would be a killer kitchen knife as well.
Six criteria: 1. Sharpness/Holds an edge. 2. Ability to field sharpen. 3. 90 degree spine. 4. Big enough to baton (3/16"). 5. Ergonomics of handle and balance. 6.Full tang. A quality sheath with fero rod holder is something worth having as well.
I like how you have dave's criterias but idk if your still looking for other criteria is but I look at what Dave suggests and how the knife preforms for food prep. I think that's just as important.
Here's four for you to consider off the top of my head. Keep the videos coming, Chris, I appreciate your efforts. Task specific (Butchering (fish bird mammal), Skinning without making holes for fur (tip), Carving, Baton capable/easy/difficult, Trap Triggers, Feathersticks, Fireboard holes) Edge Durability/Ease of Sharpening (hard to have both) and Field Sharpening with impovised equipment. Still shaving sharp after making triggers etc? Ergonomics -(Best for large/small hand, Gripping for Hard use tasks like batoning, High points leading to blisters) Bonus Bushcraft Features (i.e. 90 degree spine, Firesteel Notch, Hammer pommel, Flint Striking)
When I am deciding on buying a knife, I consider Ergonomics, Practicality, Value for money, Quality of workmanship and Usefulness above most things. Great vid, can't wait to see the PLSK1.
There are a few things I look for in any knife. The ability to take and hold an edge is paramount. The overall durability when used for its intended purpose is also important. Is it comfortable to use for an extended period of time? The fit and finish must match the price. Now a little something on knife reviewers. It drives me nuts when some idget gives a good knife a bad review because his criteria for a good knife doesn't match the intended use that the knife was designed for. It also bugs me when a guy goes on about how expensive a knife is without considering fit and finish or quality of materials. Take for example the BK2 and the ESEE-5. Both are great knives but there is a reason why the ESEE costs so much more. Another thing that some knife reviewers don't do is spend enough time actually using the knife. No one can take a knife out for one weekend and give a fair review. Keep up the good work.
1. good handle ergonomics 2. 5-7" blade 3. quality carbon steel (1095 or similar) with a good heat treat 4. suitable and well executed grind that is easy to sharpen/hone 5. quality sheath, preferably leather or kydex 6. performs well in various tasks (carving, food prep, batoning, etc.) one is likely to use ones knife for
How about edge retention and edge strength, in other words, how long will it stay sharp, and under heavy use will the edge remained undamaged. I'm not talking about getting dull, I'm talking about the edge being damaged through heavy use, chipping, rolling etc. Also ease of resharpening should be a criteria.
I would say steel type(ease of sharpening/edged retention),ergonomics, blade shape, sheath(because a lot of us like myself don't have the money to re sheath often), blade size and it's ability to do a lot of different things
Chris, I Like the idea you mentioned the weight for us EDC guys, or hiking or whatever the case. I don't know if it should be a "criteria" but I appreciate the info. Absolutely agree with you about a good handle, steel is not important to me as long as the heat treat is done right to last me a lifetime, past that I just like the good information as a result of your brutal testing.
Not sure what's already in your criteria, but here are things I look for.I don't anticipate finding ALL of these in a single knife, nor are they in exact order of importance. My system makes this knife the primary tool, but not for chopping. That's what my machete is for. 1) Full tang. 2) >4", but
For survival: 1-Ergonomics, 2-blade steel type, 3-blade steel grind (flat, convex, 2 angle, etc.), 4-how well (long) it holds an edge and how easily is it sharpened, 5-usability (different applications in one knife), 6-sheath adaptability
Philosophy Of Use is the most important, so who is the knife for...what is it's intended purpose from the manufacturer? Criteria for my hunting knives: 1. Ease of sharpening 2. Edge holding 3. Stain resistance 4. Ergonomics 5. Sheath quality 6. Worth the price?
Chris, Please do a review of the Marttiini Scandi-grind knife, made in Finland. I suggest getting one of several models that has a knurled kraton covered handle. Extremely sharp right out of the box; and I mean crazy sharp! They have a 90 degree spine for ferro rods. The grip of the handle is so comfortable and I truly believe that they out perform Mora knives and are made with better materials. It is definitely a great bushcraftng knife!
Good video. Glad you are 'raising the bar' on knife reviews. I'm a casual knife user so the bushcraft knife metrics don't mean much to me. I am interested in: "camp tasks", ergonomics, sharpness, reliability, affordability and overall value. More specifically: "Camp Tasks" Batoning Wood Cutting (Notching) Chopping Carving/whittling Food preparation - dicing (rather than mashing), slicing, filleting, sticking (holds onto food for turning over on a fire, or adding/removing to/from a fire) Fire Starting Ergonomics Knife balance for each camp task (because you need different hand positions) Handle fit and comfort for each camp task (ditto) If it were up to me, I would test sharpness using that same thin rice paper that "virtuovice" uses. A slightly dull knife deforms that paper and it will not cut well. (OK. I'm an Engineer so I want everything to three decimal places. My bad.) Please . . . x-nay on the scene transition noises. They are more annoying than a Pauly Shore movie.
Love the classic design of the blade! As for knife criteria your right on about ergos. I look at the basic fit and feel to include handle ergos and then i look at blade grind and contour. I like to have prominent belly sweep on a do all, general utility knife and the ergos of the handle need to complement the blade design and help with sustained usability. My next concern is materials used. Both handle and blade. Im not a big material/steel snob but it must be quality and be properly tempered. I then look to the sheath or carry options. As long as I can readily affix it to a belt up to 2" Im a happy camper, other options in conjunction with belt carry are a bonus. Sheath must be built strong, on the overbuilt side is better for me, materials need to be durable and have some level of weather resistance. About the last thing Im looking at in a knife would be design features that I can integrate into activities above and beyond the normal call of duty. Flint or ferro strike capability, draw knife contours, bow drill divet, saw back, strike pommel, choil or notch that could pull a hot pot off the fire etc... Hope this helps
I've been looking at the Pathfinder for about a year. Watching you use the knife making the same occasional misstep I do actually gives a me a better idea of it's function in my hands (no insult intended). My thinking is more of a hybrid of bushcraft / backpacking / survival. The dual rating scale is a good idea. Thanks for the video.how about using price,ergonomics,performance,materials and sheath or sheath options since sending a knife away to disappear for sometimes months at a time for a completely custom sheath is not something any of us enjoy. It's better to order from a sheathmaker who keeps your blade in stock in most cases.
Blade Design: What tasks can it do? Is it full tang? Will it break? Handle Material: Is it comfortable and is it grippy? Sheath: Will it last? Does it have different carry options? Price: Is it worth the money? Blade Material: Is it easy to hone? Does it hold an edge? Is it hard or soft metal? Weight/Length: Is it too big or small for all the tasks i need it for.
I just ordered a knife. Based on another review of yours before I saw this one. One for a primary survival knife. It was the terava jaakari puukko 140. I know its not as wide but I watched a lot of people beat it to death and they couldn't break it. So it is what it is. I watched a Russian on UA-cam break a usmc ka bar. That was sad. So I think it will be OK. I think it has all the criteria but it is coated I think and I have no flint and steel either.
If you sand the spine of the BOB, wouldn't that be good enough to both get rid of the anti-spark coating and sharpen the spine so you can strike ferro rods and flint with it? Or does it damage the knife in any way?
The Pathfinder Trade Knife is one of my all time favorite knives, and it's the one that I recommend whenever someone asks me about getting a very good knife at an affordable price. I also like the Tops B.O.B. quite a lot, but if I were forced to choose between the two I'd take the Pathfinder Trade Knife without hesitation. It's just a really great knife! Chris, have you thought about reviewing the Camillus Bushcrafter? It made of 1/8" thick 1095 high carbon steel, and it has a 4" full tang blade, a Scandi grind & brown Micarta scales. Better yet it's only $76 on Amazon. I've yet to find one that I could actually look at and put my hands on, but if it's as good as it looks it may be one of the best bushcraft blades available for the money.
PREPAREDMIND101 All of the reviews that I've found rate it at either four out of five or (mostly) five out of five stars with the only complaint being that the lanyard loop looks fragile, although I haven't found anyone claiming to have broken it.
I like it but I'm holding out for Crotalus... bigger handle. The handle seems a bit skinny especially towards the index finger. Was your grip loose? How does the grip compare to the Crotalus and BOB?
Nice review on a cool knife. Don't let the "Dave" hater's get to you. Not sure why they got their panties all in a bunch about Dave...but Dave brings a great wilderness survival perspective to the subject of knives. Dave or no Dave...just do what YOU think is right. Personally I like where you're going with this. Keep up the great work.
1 Am I going to be able to do the one stick fire challenge. 2 Will it stay sharp 3 can I make a figure 4 dead fall set after the one stick challenge. 4 will it chip or lose it's point? 5 will it give me a blister if I need to do a lot of "bushcraft" tasks. 6 do I need to do anything to keep this from rusting?
*DISCLAIMER: I'm just going off of my short term of experience here, so DO NOT QUOTE ME. There are tons of people out there (Chris for one, since he does so many knife reviews) that know A LOT more than me about this stuff. Now that that's out of the way, see my answers below.* 1. Probably. This depends on your personal skill set and proficiency. 2. Yes. 1095 is a high carbon steel that is soft enough to take an edge easily, yet will stay sharp for a dang long time lol. 3. See answer to #1 (depends on your skills). 4. If you accidentally bang it up on a rock or something, then yes it may chip. It may lose its point, but not for a while. 5. Again, it depends. What is your definition of "a lot of 'bushcraft' tasks" ? 6. Yes. Any knife that uses a high carbon steel will need a light coat of oil from time to time. It depends on how much you expose it to the elements like water or humidity as to how often you'll need to oil it.
Lol Yeah, now I know that. I "answered" your comment before I got that far into the video. Now I feel kinda dumb... But at least you have my opinion on the knife in the video haha (although I have no real life experience with that particular blade, so take that for what it's worth)
I have one and love it - alternate between it and the Condor Bushlore - I just have this thing for Scandi grind and comfortable handles - would really love to compare it to the Habilis Bush Tool, and maybe even the LT Wright Genesis (with Scandi grind) or the LT Wright SOSPES - the one I really had my eyes on - the Pathfinder Scout - I understand is no longer in production
C-mon Chris. After all those juicy Beker handles do you really like the ergo's of the Habilis? I love my Habilis, but without a double wrap, tapered fat to the pommel, of Wilson over wrap the Habilis handle is small. When you resharp decrease the angle for better feathers with no sacrifice to battoning. Still thinking about the second 6....
A bit off topic but wondering if you could review the Fox FX-0171111 Folding Pack Spade. Have searched all over and can't find a review. Looks to be a high quality shovel but with a big ticket price.
Sir, if you are going to set criteria for bushcraft knives, then maybe you should consider the opinions of expert bushcrafters, past and present. That list should include outstanding woodsman like: George Washington Sears, Mors Kochanski, Ray Mears, Horace Kephart, among others. I really like Dave, and his channel was the first UA-cam channel that I subscribed to. I have enjoyed watching him develop his skills and observing the knowledge and experience he has gained over the past 4 years. I have learned a great deal from Dave's vids, but the gentleman mentioned above are the true experts.
PREPAREDMIND101 For one thing, Kephart was the only one I listed that suggested a knife blade up to 5 inches, and his actual knife was 4 1/4" in length. The others I listed see a bushcraft knife being in that 3 1/2" to 4" range. Also the bushcraft knife typically is considered to have a thinner blade than Dave's requirement of 3/16. Nessmuk and Horace Kephart preferred a knife with a 1/8" thick blade. I hope I'm not coming across as insulting, that is not my intent. I am not saying that there is anything wrong with his criteria!! I am saying that his criteria differs to what most consider for bushcraft. Dave Canterbury has made vids discussing the views of Mors, Nessmuk, and Horace. Mors Kochanski, for example, Mors says that a knife blade should be no longer than the width of your palm, Dave has said that these men have influenced him, yet his knife criteria is quite different than theirs, and of many others that follow a bushcraft mindset. I think of Dave as more a woodsman, than a bushcrafter. His mindset is very similar to my father and uncle who taught me woodsmanship.
GunznGear and therein lies the problem. There are so many little nuances associated with these labels. Maybe I will/should use one of those labels instead of Bushcraft. It just becomes sort of automatic out of your mouth.
@@GunznGear that's because the 3/16ths knife he's talking about is on your belt to be able to survive with. If you actually watched his vids then you'd see that he indeed does carry a Bushcraft knife in his pack, because your Bushcraft knife shouldn't be on your belt. Your survival/camp knife should be. If you're gonna do actual bushcraft, it usually means you've stopped and dropped your pack and setup some kind of shop even if it isn't where you're camping.
Here are my 6 guidelines for a bushcraft/survival knife: 1. Size. I agree with Dave that a bushcraft-style knife should be within the 5" -6" blade length range. (I don't mind a longer blade, unless it's something ridiculous like 10". That's in full-on chopping territory for me.) 2. Usefulness of the blade design. I like recurve blades for their chopping ability, but a recurve is a little more difficult to field sharpen IMO. Also, I personally don't think tanto blades are that useful in an outdoor survival/bushcraft setting. For me, a drop point or clip point is the way to go. Also, the grind type. I don't really think it really matters all that much, but my favorites are full flat grind or "Scandi" (Scandinavian) grind. 3. Durability of the steel type and heat treat (pretty much every company is different in their HT methods). I'd want a blade that will hold up to abuse (not chip), yet be able to take a decent edge and hold it for a while. Also, if a high carbon steel, how much maintenance will it need (rust prevention, edge durability, etc.) 4. Ergonomics. If I'm "in the bush" for a long time or stuck outdoors in an emergency survival situation, I want a comfortable handle. Hand fatigue translates to full-on fatigue. 5. Full-tang construction. If and when I need/want to baton logs with my knife, full-tang construction means that I'm not risking the handle snapping off of the blade, or vice versa, unless I'm really whacking the crap out of it. 6. Sharp 90° spine. Used for striking a ferrocerium rod and/or making wood shavings from smaller branches for tinder.
1. Sharp Has to be from factory because most people won't sharpen or hone their knife or don't want to. As well as providing a good representation of the manufacturer. 2. Full Tang (or sturdy one-piece rat tang not tig-welded) Because some people like to get aggressive when craft. 3. Must be able to Bend without snapping at least half an inch from the tip to the tang 4. Task Specific Edge Grinds Whatever one you would prefer of fits the role knife is suppose to fulfill. 5. Ergonomics Limit As you said maybe employ a scale from 1 to 5 Least to Most comfortable and make this rule be it has to at least be a 3.5
I've followed your reviews for years now, really respect what you do. Four years since your review of the Pathfinder trade knife.What's your take on it now?
Lovin your improved videos man. But not gonna lie....i'm beginning to miss your crazy bottle dicing vids, or random boots being destroyed! I was pretty hyped when you busted out the carpet the other day. I always love your vids because they're always fun and unpredictable! But as always, keep up the awesome work! And go cut something lol
I think these should be the criteria Easy to sharpen/keep sharp Ergonomic handle Type if steel Can it strike sparks Good price for what you get And the standard extremities it comes with
Joe, I forgot to mention I did purchase the PKS Kephart 5" blade with leather sheath walnut handle that had 1/8" thick blade and the BOB has 3/16". I think 1/8" is good maybe better. but the scandi grind on the BOB looks like it will have twice the life of my scandi KPS Kephart, just by looking at how wide the bevel goes. David P.S one screw on my BOB field knife is loose, what driver size do I need? I just realized that the bevel thickness maybe because of the 3/16" width. Anyway do you know the blade edge sharpening degree of the BOB and the KPS? I have to maintenance my BOB edge I have a DMT kit.
Oh I see just kick the Tops BOB to the curb now that you have a new love, I bought the BOB because you said it was the knife to have now this is the great new knife to have. Now I have to buy this knife for for one of my kits, I just can't keep up with you my credit card is screaming.
I haven't kicked the BOB to the curb. It's one of my favorite knives. But I have to point out what it's good at and what it isn't. I always have other tools like a Leatherman that can do the things a knife that doesn't have a 90° uncoated spine can do. But for people wanting to learn woodcrafting skills, you kinda need that I've knife that does everything. Just wait. My PLSK-1 ships out today!
Christopher Apodaca That is so true I'm going to order that knife a few other things tonight, there goes the empty wallet again. I'm just going to have to avoid watching his reviews for sake of not going broke. lol
I think every fixed blade knife should have a pommel. It makes the knife more versatile. A lot of people don't really know what a pommel is used for so they don't think of it or care. Things a pommel is used for is Breaking glass, Cracking nuts, Light pounding and hammering, Self defense, And as a pestle as in Mortar and pestle. If you use wood or stone as a pestle to grind up things to flour for eating, you will be eating wood too, or finding bits of sand form the stone in your food with your teeth, (not fun). Also I like to turn my knife into a kind of draw knife by pounding the point into a stick and using the stick as another handle for the other hand. I know you can use other things to do these jobs, but why not have one on your knife? It doesn't get in the way, and will be there f you need it. One other thing, No pommel means if you need to pound your knife into something point first, (No pommel) you ill be hitting the handle, and I like my wood handles.
1 ergonomics/grip/traction 2 strength (1/8" thickness/full tang/tip) 3 edge retention/durability 4 value for money (if it fits the criteria but no one can afford the damn thing then it's not a great knife!) 5 capable of being your only knife for a week in the woods 6 sheath (6 point checklist could be made for this as well) Other points, fine point for delicate tasks, corrosion resistance, fire steel capability, good belly, can handle battening a 3" log, sexiness! Like the concept, should improve reviews!
A criteria kind of limits a knife on how WELL it can perform each task though or to what standard. Like cutting (obviously) I feel like the edge profile and handles sometimes look a little... Off. But yes, every knife should be able to cut. Same goes for chopping and skinning and holding an edge and everything else. So IMHO, I'm not sure about the whole criteria thing. It might get too complicated.
Hi, I've just learned how to sharpen scandi grinds, I like the kydex sheath of the B.O.B. fieldcraft knife and the piggy back ferro rod loop, and I like the Mercata scales on it, but know I want to mod my B.O.B. by removing the change notch and making a 90 degree spine. I saw one guy use the tip area of bout half inch to ignite the ferro rod. But I think wood handles could ruin if wet and crack, also leather sheath can hold moisture. What suggestions do you have for my BOB mods? David
I like the look/performance of this knife very much...may have to pick this up. I just can't justify $300+ for a knife...but $120 or so for a very good knife?...that seems fair. My only worries are that I'm going to hate that sheath and the fact that there is no ferro rod loop...I mean if that's one of the things this knife does really well (throw sparks) it really needs the loop on the sheath. I'd rather pay an extra $35-40 for a more robust leather sheath that includes a ferro rod loop. Anyway, great review!...thanks for doing this one.
Looks like an excellent knife for the price. All those mods you have done to Jessica Chris and you didn't take 60 seconds out of you day to sharpen the spine?
Yeah ok. Go ahead and post a video of you sharpening a BK7 in 60 seconds. You'd need a heavy duty grinder to do that. I MIGHT let one if the guys at Survival Tactics try it with Jess-1 but I dont NEED it. I have plenty of other ways to strike a ferro rod.
True, but you spent multiple days maybe a week modding the knife. I respect that you choose not to sharpen the spine, DC is off frowning somewhere, but my point is you had plenty of TIME to do it.
Nice review brother Thank you, that is a Condor Sheath
Okay I just finished the video- If you can grab the pebble from my hand then you are ready grasshopper- Great Job
Thanks!
PREPAREDMIND101
I really respect that your learning new ideas and philosophy from Dave- Great Job from me as well
Donovan Whitehall I've always said I'm not a survival expert. I'm just like everyone watching. We should always want to keep learning. I've always been comfortable with my own way of doing things but that gets dull if your always trying to have fresh video content.
thought Dave pushed for 3/16ths thickness?
FARMED- Functionality, Affordability, Repeatability in use, Maintainability in the field, Ergonomics, Durability over time. There is your 6 with an easy acronym brother-
Although I probably copied that from someone else ,NOT!
I think you have given a very honest, personal review. I have watched several of you videos before, but feel that this one is the best because you are talking like you would to a person standing there with you. Thanks. You have helped me, and others, I’m sure, in making an informed purchase of a good knife among so many to choose from.
FYI: I got a format from a higher level youtuber for grading a knife that is universally applicable so I'll be using that, but I'm still reading the ideas for other stuff I like.
that's a beauty!
what about just plain awesomeness? i mean , you know that ' fuck yeah!' feeling you get when you pick up a knife you like? that alone tends to make me use a knife more than a knife that comes highly recommended. i've been lucky to have really good tools coincide with that fuck yeah feeling. so far.lol
One thing should be how well can it also be used as a defensive knife. Let's face it, if your in a survival situation you may be faced with your knife as a defensive tool. It maybe a great bushcraft knife but totally suck for a possible defensive blade, or vice versa.
@@thelasthuntsmanoutdoors with a good knife you should be able to make a defensive tool whether that be a club, or a spear, or even a bow and arrows
I've noticed that you are moving towards bushcraft mindset. That happened to me 12 years ago after I started as a "survivalist." Keep up the good work.
I think you visiting Dave and using some of his stuff is great. These others saying things like "Your on Daves nut sac" and "This seams weird," and, "do your own thing" and "You don't need Dave" It's all a bunch of Bla,bla,bla. Dave is another resource of information. Dave can be a real asset when you want to learn more bushcraft and outdoor things. Absolutely no reason to not have a friend like that. Don't listen to the jealous, haters out there that think they know what's best for you. I like seeing you progress in knowledge. Great job.
I chose this knife for my EDC and bushcraft blade and I truly love it. I was unimpressed with the rough grind, but I fixed that and it just rocks!
Chris, you should have the edge of the knife facing away from your hand when you're striking a ferro-rod. You're inviting yourself to a test of your first aid kit. Also, with the blade facing away, it helps to direct the sparks a bit better than just having the thickness of the steel bouncing the sparks down.
On some knives but not all. Another example is the other recently reviewed Habilis, the Bushtool. Seems to differ from knife to knife.
I'll have to defer to your vast amount more experience than I have. I was mostly concerned about you lopping off a finger or two and greatly degrading the quality of your videos. :P At least wear a glove when you're doing that. I was sitting here cringing every time when you were 'sparking up'.
Anthony White if you are experienced with knives. the way chris used his ferro rod it is safe. But always be careful :)
dude i gave you a hard time the last time i made a comment
but you just gave a top shelf review of a really nice knife I'm, an F1 guy myself and there is a little learning curve with the F1 and I'm not going to switch over but if i was starting from scratch this would be at the top of the list real nice knife
and not big i prefer a smaller knife than the larger ones
excellent job and a friggin damn fine review you hit every applicable point that needed to be spoken on and all of your opinions were spot on with me and practical tip of the hat sir !!
Like the review, and it's good that you are expanding the way you look at knives, can only make the channel even better, surprised you didn't compare the condor bushlore as a cheap alternative comparison, know you reviewed it already, but was good to see comparisons to other knives many of us may own, thanks!
Chris,
I pulled the trigger on the PTK based on your review. Thanks!
I love the intro music and intro graphics.... not real big on the sound effects tho.... being out in the woods with the sound of the natural background is great.... even the occasional helicopter, ambulance, siren and lawn mower are cool too :)
18:32 Also, for relatively the same amount of money, (depending on which version of the B.O.B. you're looking at) you're getting all of the things that the B.O.B. can do, and more.
You got some haters on the comments. Keep up the good work! I always enjoy your channel and reviews. I live in the dayton oh area so you and Daves reviews fit my needs perfectly. Thanks!
Chris, for your criteria I would suggest the following: can it baton (reasonable sized wood for the blade size also proof of durability), knife task (slice, cut and finesse task), track record (if new knife track record of the company), steel, handle/ergonomics, and why we all watch, how does it compares to Jessica (cool factor, and how much you like it).
Chris, one thing I look for is the degree of sharpness on the spine. My preferred firesteel are the Swedish Light My Fire Army 2.0 models. They are quite a bit harder than the typical firesteels. They will give a nice shower of sparks when used with the method you just demonstrated and for some tinders that works fine. I prefer the LMF brand because, with a good sharp striking edge, you can strike with a short, deep digging motion and get big globs of burning material that you can direct with great accuracy. It's the best thing that I have found for starting marginal tinder. (Like damp birchbark or wood shavings) In any case, a moderately sharp spine that might work ok on a soft firesteel won't work well using my technique. (The Bushcraft Black works great for my technique and I think makes a proper benchmark for what a sharp spine should be)
Just my two cents on something that I look for.
Good review by the way. I like that you are continuing to evolve your reviews and broaden their scope to encompass more than just your personal wants and needs.
I like the continuous curve of that blade. With some refinement of the edge I'll bet it would be a killer kitchen knife as well.
Thanks Chris!
Six criteria: 1. Sharpness/Holds an edge. 2. Ability to field sharpen. 3. 90 degree spine. 4. Big enough to baton (3/16"). 5. Ergonomics of handle and balance. 6.Full tang. A quality sheath with fero rod holder is something worth having as well.
Good review Chris
I like how you have dave's criterias but idk if your still looking for other criteria is but I look at what Dave suggests and how the knife preforms for food prep. I think that's just as important.
I wonder why no one ever looks at a Alaskan belt knife as a design for bush craft. I have one from Knives of Alaska and I love it.
The sharpness how it feels in the hand and size
Here's four for you to consider off the top of my head. Keep the videos coming, Chris, I appreciate your efforts.
Task specific (Butchering (fish bird mammal), Skinning without making holes for fur (tip), Carving, Baton capable/easy/difficult, Trap Triggers, Feathersticks, Fireboard holes)
Edge Durability/Ease of Sharpening (hard to have both) and Field Sharpening with impovised equipment. Still shaving sharp after making triggers etc?
Ergonomics -(Best for large/small hand, Gripping for Hard use tasks like batoning, High points leading to blisters)
Bonus Bushcraft Features (i.e. 90 degree spine, Firesteel Notch, Hammer pommel, Flint Striking)
and Full Tang or not too
When I am deciding on buying a knife, I consider Ergonomics, Practicality, Value for money, Quality of workmanship and Usefulness above most things.
Great vid, can't wait to see the PLSK1.
There are a few things I look for in any knife. The ability to take and hold an edge is paramount. The overall durability when used for its intended purpose is also important. Is it comfortable to use for an extended period of time? The fit and finish must match the price.
Now a little something on knife reviewers. It drives me nuts when some idget gives a good knife a bad review because his criteria for a good knife doesn't match the intended use that the knife was designed for. It also bugs me when a guy goes on about how expensive a knife is without considering fit and finish or quality of materials. Take for example the BK2 and the ESEE-5. Both are great knives but there is a reason why the ESEE costs so much more. Another thing that some knife reviewers don't do is spend enough time actually using the knife. No one can take a knife out for one weekend and give a fair review.
Keep up the good work.
1. good handle ergonomics
2. 5-7" blade
3. quality carbon steel (1095 or similar) with a good heat treat
4. suitable and well executed grind that is easy to sharpen/hone
5. quality sheath, preferably leather or kydex
6. performs well in various tasks (carving, food prep, batoning, etc.) one is likely to use ones knife for
How about edge retention and edge strength, in other words, how long will it stay sharp, and under heavy use will the edge remained undamaged. I'm not talking about getting dull, I'm talking about the edge being damaged through heavy use, chipping, rolling etc. Also ease of resharpening should be a criteria.
The Becker BK 2 has a choil that you can use as a fire striker. Just saying. That's why I want one.
I would say steel type(ease of sharpening/edged retention),ergonomics, blade shape, sheath(because a lot of us like myself don't have the money to re sheath often), blade size and it's ability to do a lot of different things
Design,Steel(Edge retention,Ease of sharpening),Ergonomics,fit&finish,Sheath
Chris, I Like the idea you mentioned the weight for us EDC guys, or hiking or whatever the case. I don't know if it should be a "criteria" but I appreciate the info. Absolutely agree with you about a good handle, steel is not important to me as long as the heat treat is done right to last me a lifetime, past that I just like the good information as a result of your brutal testing.
I ordered a trade knife when it first came out. Mine did not come sharp. At all. Was good after I reprofiled it.
Not sure what's already in your criteria, but here are things I look for.I don't anticipate finding ALL of these in a single knife, nor are they in exact order of importance. My system makes this knife the primary tool, but not for chopping. That's what my machete is for.
1) Full tang.
2) >4", but
For survival: 1-Ergonomics, 2-blade steel type, 3-blade steel grind (flat, convex, 2 angle, etc.), 4-how well (long) it holds an edge and how easily is it sharpened, 5-usability (different applications in one knife), 6-sheath adaptability
Philosophy Of Use is the most important, so who is the knife for...what is it's intended purpose from the manufacturer?
Criteria for my hunting knives:
1. Ease of sharpening
2. Edge holding
3. Stain resistance
4. Ergonomics
5. Sheath quality
6. Worth the price?
3 ideas:
1. Ease of sharpening
2. Edge retention
3. Non-slip handle (water and blood especially)
Chris, Please do a review of the Marttiini Scandi-grind knife, made in Finland. I suggest getting one of several models that has a knurled kraton covered handle. Extremely sharp right out of the box; and I mean crazy sharp! They have a 90 degree spine for ferro rods. The grip of the handle is so comfortable and I truly believe that they out perform Mora knives and are made with better materials. It is definitely a great bushcraftng knife!
Good video. Glad you are 'raising the bar' on knife reviews. I'm a casual knife user so the bushcraft knife metrics don't mean much to me. I am interested in: "camp tasks", ergonomics, sharpness, reliability, affordability and overall value.
More specifically:
"Camp Tasks"
Batoning
Wood Cutting (Notching)
Chopping
Carving/whittling
Food preparation - dicing (rather than mashing), slicing, filleting, sticking (holds onto
food for turning over on a fire, or adding/removing to/from a fire)
Fire Starting
Ergonomics
Knife balance for each camp task (because you need different hand positions)
Handle fit and comfort for each camp task (ditto)
If it were up to me, I would test sharpness using that same thin rice paper that "virtuovice" uses. A slightly dull knife deforms that paper and it will not cut well.
(OK. I'm an Engineer so I want everything to three decimal places. My bad.)
Please . . . x-nay on the scene transition noises. They are more annoying than a Pauly Shore movie.
Not digging the frame change sound effects.. kinda trashes the video up a bit
I can fix that. Still figuring out what I can do with this computer.
PREPAREDMIND101
Cool deal.. guess you just don't know till ya put it out there..
Yeah I'm not feeling it either. I was going to comment the same thing, but you beat me to it.
I kinda dig it. :)
I wasn't digging it either.. sorry
why are you making feather sticks in green wood?
Love the classic design of the blade! As for knife criteria your right on about ergos. I look at the basic fit and feel to include handle ergos and then i look at blade grind and contour. I like to have prominent belly sweep on a do all, general utility knife and the ergos of the handle need to complement the blade design and help with sustained usability. My next concern is materials used. Both handle and blade. Im not a big material/steel snob but it must be quality and be properly tempered. I then look to the sheath or carry options. As long as I can readily affix it to a belt up to 2" Im a happy camper, other options in conjunction with belt carry are a bonus. Sheath must be built strong, on the overbuilt side is better for me, materials need to be durable and have some level of weather resistance. About the last thing Im looking at in a knife would be design features that I can integrate into activities above and beyond the normal call of duty. Flint or ferro strike capability, draw knife contours, bow drill divet, saw back, strike pommel, choil or notch that could pull a hot pot off the fire etc... Hope this helps
I've been looking at the Pathfinder for about a year. Watching you use the knife making the same occasional misstep I do actually gives a me a better idea of it's function in my hands (no insult intended). My thinking is more of a hybrid of bushcraft / backpacking / survival. The dual rating scale is a good idea. Thanks for the video.how about using price,ergonomics,performance,materials and sheath or sheath options since sending a knife away to disappear for sometimes months at a time for a completely custom sheath is not something any of us enjoy. It's better to order from a sheathmaker who keeps your blade in stock in most cases.
Blade Design: What tasks can it do? Is it full tang? Will it break? Handle Material: Is it comfortable and is it grippy? Sheath: Will it last? Does it have different carry options? Price: Is it worth the money? Blade Material: Is it easy to hone? Does it hold an edge? Is it hard or soft metal? Weight/Length: Is it too big or small for all the tasks i need it for.
I've been looking at their Trapper.. but on the fence about getting another blade.
I like the Wanderer.
would you choose this or a tops bob for a bushcraft knife
Dave's knives are great....only gripe is handle contour.
You should get the Condor Nessmuk knife
I just ordered a knife. Based on another review of yours before I saw this one. One for a primary survival knife. It was the terava jaakari puukko 140. I know its not as wide but I watched a lot of people beat it to death and they couldn't break it. So it is what it is. I watched a Russian on UA-cam break a usmc ka bar. That was sad. So I think it will be OK. I think it has all the criteria but it is coated I think and I have no flint and steel either.
fit and finish
value (bang for the buck)
chopping power
handle
sheath
does it work for what is it not desingt to do
all I can think of hope it helps
When is the schf9 vs schf9n part two coming out?
Great review as always but I'll stay with my bk-16 I have never found a better field knife in my opinion of coarse
you mentioned a blued coating.... would this coating be food safe?
How can I get on of these in the UK or is it impossible
#1 handle comfort, #2 sharping, #3 bang for buck, #4 modifiability, #5 batoning/choping, #6 cool factor
If you sand the spine of the BOB, wouldn't that be good enough to both get rid of the anti-spark coating and sharpen the spine so you can strike ferro rods and flint with it? Or does it damage the knife in any way?
The Pathfinder Trade Knife is one of my all time favorite knives, and it's the one that I recommend whenever someone asks me about getting a very good knife at an affordable price. I also like the Tops B.O.B. quite a lot, but if I were forced to choose between the two I'd take the Pathfinder Trade Knife without hesitation. It's just a really great knife!
Chris, have you thought about reviewing the Camillus Bushcrafter? It made of 1/8" thick 1095 high carbon steel, and it has a 4" full tang blade, a Scandi grind & brown Micarta scales. Better yet it's only $76 on Amazon. I've yet to find one that I could actually look at and put my hands on, but if it's as good as it looks it may be one of the best bushcraft blades available for the money.
I don't know it. I'll look.
PREPAREDMIND101 All of the reviews that I've found rate it at either four out of five or (mostly) five out of five stars with the only complaint being that the lanyard loop looks fragile, although I haven't found anyone claiming to have broken it.
Geometry, durability, length of usable edge, fit and finish, blade steel, handle ergonomics
Use the spine at the tip of that BOB to thtow those sparks with that ferro rod.
OMG...please drop the cut scene sound effects!!! They are very grating after hearing the brook in background.
is this better than the tops bob
I wonder if you still like this knife as much after all of the knives that you have handled?
I like it but I'm holding out for Crotalus... bigger handle. The handle seems a bit skinny especially towards the index finger. Was your grip loose? How does the grip compare to the Crotalus and BOB?
Nice review on a cool knife. Don't let the "Dave" hater's get to you. Not sure why they got their panties all in a bunch about Dave...but Dave brings a great wilderness survival perspective to the subject of knives. Dave or no Dave...just do what YOU think is right. Personally I like where you're going with this. Keep up the great work.
Have you thought about checking out the Maxpedition line of fixed blades?
Soli tary I got the small clip point last week. It's definitely sharp as hell....Aesthetically I don't like it. Haven't tested it yet.
It would be super helpful if you could show how to strip the paint from a knife. Great video tho keep at it!
1 Am I going to be able to do the one stick fire challenge.
2 Will it stay sharp
3 can I make a figure 4 dead fall set after the one stick challenge.
4 will it chip or lose it's point?
5 will it give me a blister if I need to do a lot of "bushcraft" tasks.
6 do I need to do anything to keep this from rusting?
*DISCLAIMER: I'm just going off of my short term of experience here, so DO NOT QUOTE ME. There are tons of people out there (Chris for one, since he does so many knife reviews) that know A LOT more than me about this stuff. Now that that's out of the way, see my answers below.*
1. Probably. This depends on your personal skill set and proficiency. 2. Yes. 1095 is a high carbon steel that is soft enough to take an edge easily, yet will stay sharp for a dang long time lol. 3. See answer to #1 (depends on your skills). 4. If you accidentally bang it up on a rock or something, then yes it may chip. It may lose its point, but not for a while. 5. Again, it depends. What is your definition of "a lot of 'bushcraft' tasks" ? 6. Yes. Any knife that uses a high carbon steel will need a light coat of oil from time to time. It depends on how much you expose it to the elements like water or humidity as to how often you'll need to oil it.
kpw528
He was asking for evaluation criteria, right?
Lol Yeah, now I know that. I "answered" your comment before I got that far into the video. Now I feel kinda dumb... But at least you have my opinion on the knife in the video haha (although I have no real life experience with that particular blade, so take that for what it's worth)
Also, my 6 things pretty much mirror yours, except for a couple.
kpw528 I was about to do the same and answer his question
If you can also state if it's good for Urban use that will be helpful...
Thanks
I have one and love it - alternate between it and the Condor Bushlore - I just have this thing for Scandi grind and comfortable handles - would really love to compare it to the Habilis Bush Tool, and maybe even the LT Wright Genesis (with Scandi grind) or the LT Wright SOSPES - the one I really had my eyes on - the Pathfinder Scout - I understand is no longer in production
I can't choose between the Jeff white and Lt Wright bush craft knives any input would be great
C-mon Chris. After all those juicy Beker handles do you really like the ergo's of the Habilis? I love my Habilis, but without a double wrap, tapered fat to the pommel, of Wilson over wrap the Habilis handle is small.
When you resharp decrease the angle for better feathers with no sacrifice to battoning.
Still thinking about the second 6....
I would drop or change the noise on the transitions. It doesn't fit the video.
I have the older version, doesn't have a palm swell like yours.
A bit off topic but wondering if you could review the Fox FX-0171111 Folding Pack Spade. Have searched all over and can't find a review. Looks to be a high quality shovel but with a big ticket price.
Sir, if you are going to set criteria for bushcraft knives, then maybe you should consider the opinions of expert bushcrafters, past and present. That list should include outstanding woodsman like: George Washington Sears, Mors Kochanski, Ray Mears, Horace Kephart, among others. I really like Dave, and his channel was the first UA-cam channel that I subscribed to. I have enjoyed watching him develop his skills and observing the knowledge and experience he has gained over the past 4 years. I have learned a great deal from Dave's vids, but the gentleman mentioned above are the true experts.
That's who HE follows. (Well, maybe not Mears). I see no flaw in his list. He probably got it from one of them.
PREPAREDMIND101 For one thing, Kephart was the only one I listed that suggested a knife blade up to 5 inches, and his actual knife was 4 1/4" in length. The others I listed see a bushcraft knife being in that 3 1/2" to 4" range. Also the bushcraft knife typically is considered to have a thinner blade than Dave's requirement of 3/16. Nessmuk and Horace Kephart preferred a knife with a 1/8" thick blade. I hope I'm not coming across as insulting, that is not my intent. I am not saying that there is anything wrong with his criteria!! I am saying that his criteria differs to what most consider for bushcraft.
Dave Canterbury has made vids discussing the views of Mors, Nessmuk, and Horace. Mors Kochanski, for example, Mors says that a knife blade should be no longer than the width of your palm, Dave has said that these men have influenced him, yet his knife criteria is quite different than theirs, and of many others that follow a bushcraft mindset. I think of Dave as more a woodsman, than a bushcrafter. His mindset is very similar to my father and uncle who taught me woodsmanship.
GunznGear and therein lies the problem. There are so many little nuances associated with these labels. Maybe I will/should use one of those labels instead of Bushcraft. It just becomes sort of automatic out of your mouth.
@@GunznGear that's because the 3/16ths knife he's talking about is on your belt to be able to survive with. If you actually watched his vids then you'd see that he indeed does carry a Bushcraft knife in his pack, because your Bushcraft knife shouldn't be on your belt. Your survival/camp knife should be. If you're gonna do actual bushcraft, it usually means you've stopped and dropped your pack and setup some kind of shop even if it isn't where you're camping.
would this be a good "all tasks" knife…carving too???
Here are my 6 guidelines for a bushcraft/survival knife:
1. Size. I agree with Dave that a bushcraft-style knife should be within the 5" -6" blade length range. (I don't mind a longer blade, unless it's something ridiculous like 10". That's in full-on chopping territory for me.)
2. Usefulness of the blade design. I like recurve blades for their chopping ability, but a recurve is a little more difficult to field sharpen IMO. Also, I personally don't think tanto blades are that useful in an outdoor survival/bushcraft setting. For me, a drop point or clip point is the way to go. Also, the grind type. I don't really think it really matters all that much, but my favorites are full flat grind or "Scandi" (Scandinavian) grind.
3. Durability of the steel type and heat treat (pretty much every company is different in their HT methods). I'd want a blade that will hold up to abuse (not chip), yet be able to take a decent edge and hold it for a while. Also, if a high carbon steel, how much maintenance will it need (rust prevention, edge durability, etc.)
4. Ergonomics. If I'm "in the bush" for a long time or stuck outdoors in an emergency survival situation, I want a comfortable handle. Hand fatigue translates to full-on fatigue.
5. Full-tang construction. If and when I need/want to baton logs with my knife, full-tang construction means that I'm not risking the handle snapping off of the blade, or vice versa, unless I'm really whacking the crap out of it.
6. Sharp 90° spine. Used for striking a ferrocerium rod and/or making wood shavings from smaller branches for tinder.
1. Sharp
Has to be from factory because most people won't sharpen or hone their knife or don't want to. As well as providing a good representation of the manufacturer.
2. Full Tang (or sturdy one-piece rat tang not tig-welded)
Because some people like to get aggressive when craft.
3. Must be able to Bend without snapping at least half an inch from the tip to the tang
4. Task Specific Edge Grinds
Whatever one you would prefer of fits the role knife is suppose to fulfill.
5. Ergonomics Limit
As you said maybe employ a scale from 1 to 5 Least to Most comfortable and make this rule be it has to at least be a 3.5
11:05 Dang! This knife is like a bark eraser! Haha. (I know it depends on the wood type, but still) "Impressive, most impressive."
Thanks for keeping real brother..
Well Dave owes you a high five you just sold me on this knife
How about an up-date on this blade???
+tim kitzmann ... he no longer has it!
thanks
tim kitzmann
I own one, can't say I blame him! It's a POS without serious re-profiling.
good to know....thanks
I've followed your reviews for years now, really respect what you do. Four years since your review of the Pathfinder trade knife.What's your take on it now?
Chris check out the gideons tactical review of the Tops Silent Hero. It's similar in some ways to this knife but addresses the issues I had. Mike
That's way bigger. I held one at SHOT Show.
Except you ain't scraping or striking anything with that silent hero spine
Will we ever see a PM101 designed knife ?
Watch the new Schrade video to the end.
Great stuff as usual. Not digging the sound effects in between scenes. =)
How does the BK16 stack up with new "grading"? system
Lovin your improved videos man. But not gonna lie....i'm beginning to miss your crazy bottle dicing vids, or random boots being destroyed! I was pretty hyped when you busted out the carpet the other day. I always love your vids because they're always fun and unpredictable!
But as always, keep up the awesome work! And go cut something lol
Then you'll love what I'm going to do with a Zombie Tools Zakasushi tomorrow (film not post)
I think these should be the criteria
Easy to sharpen/keep sharp
Ergonomic handle
Type if steel
Can it strike sparks
Good price for what you get
And the standard extremities it comes with
You just described the mora.
Joe, I forgot to mention I did purchase the PKS Kephart 5" blade with leather sheath walnut handle that had 1/8" thick blade and the BOB has 3/16". I think 1/8" is good maybe better. but the scandi grind on the BOB looks like it will have twice the life of my scandi KPS Kephart, just by looking at how wide the bevel goes. David
P.S one screw on my BOB field knife is loose, what driver size do I need?
I just realized that the bevel thickness maybe because of the 3/16" width. Anyway do you know the blade edge sharpening degree of the BOB and the KPS? I have to maintenance my BOB edge I have a DMT kit.
Oh I see just kick the Tops BOB to the curb now that you have a new love, I bought the BOB because you said it was the knife to have now this is the great new knife to have. Now I have to buy this knife for for one of my kits, I just can't keep up with you my credit card is screaming.
A lesson I learned a long time ago....
"He who follows PREPAREDMIND101, shall never again be familiar with the feeling of a full pocketbook."
I haven't kicked the BOB to the curb. It's one of my favorite knives. But I have to point out what it's good at and what it isn't. I always have other tools like a Leatherman that can do the things a knife that doesn't have a 90° uncoated spine can do. But for people wanting to learn woodcrafting skills, you kinda need that I've knife that does everything.
Just wait. My PLSK-1 ships out today!
Christopher Apodaca That is so true I'm going to order that knife a few other things tonight, there goes the empty wallet again. I'm just going to have to avoid watching his reviews for sake of not going broke. lol
PREPAREDMIND101 I looked at that PLSK-1 last night but I just can't fork out the 300 right now, but thats not to say I won't next month.
Kigai11 It took me 3.5 years.
I think every fixed blade knife should have a pommel. It makes the knife more versatile. A lot of people don't really know what a pommel is used for so they don't think of it or care. Things a pommel is used for is Breaking glass, Cracking nuts, Light pounding and hammering, Self defense, And as a pestle as in Mortar and pestle. If you use wood or stone as a pestle to grind up things to flour for eating, you will be eating wood too, or finding bits of sand form the stone in your food with your teeth, (not fun). Also I like to turn my knife into a kind of draw knife by pounding the point into a stick and using the stick as another handle for the other hand. I know you can use other things to do these jobs, but why not have one on your knife? It doesn't get in the way, and will be there f you need it. One other thing, No pommel means if you need to pound your knife into something point first, (No pommel) you ill be hitting the handle, and I like my wood handles.
General prepper values..
Value...
Durability...
Edge retention/sharpening...
Ergonomics...
Build Materials...
Availability...
Chris,
How do you like your PLSK1? I have considered that knife as well thanks to you.
1 ergonomics/grip/traction
2 strength (1/8" thickness/full tang/tip)
3 edge retention/durability
4 value for money (if it fits the criteria but no one can afford the damn thing then it's not a great knife!)
5 capable of being your only knife for a week in the woods
6 sheath (6 point checklist could be made for this as well)
Other points, fine point for delicate tasks, corrosion resistance, fire steel capability, good belly, can handle battening a 3" log, sexiness!
Like the concept, should improve reviews!
An important part of a grading system for knives would definitely be general bad-assery.
Agreed.
A criteria kind of limits a knife on how WELL it can perform each task though or to what standard. Like cutting (obviously) I feel like the edge profile and handles sometimes look a little... Off. But yes, every knife should be able to cut. Same goes for chopping and skinning and holding an edge and everything else. So IMHO, I'm not sure about the whole criteria thing. It might get too complicated.
Hi, I've just learned how to sharpen scandi grinds, I like the kydex sheath of the B.O.B. fieldcraft knife and the piggy back ferro rod loop, and I like the Mercata scales on it, but know I want to mod my B.O.B. by removing the change notch and making a 90 degree spine. I saw one guy use the tip area of bout half inch to ignite the ferro rod. But I think wood handles could ruin if wet and crack, also leather sheath can hold moisture. What suggestions do you have for my BOB mods? David
I like the look/performance of this knife very much...may have to pick this up. I just can't justify $300+ for a knife...but $120 or so for a very good knife?...that seems fair. My only worries are that I'm going to hate that sheath and the fact that there is no ferro rod loop...I mean if that's one of the things this knife does really well (throw sparks) it really needs the loop on the sheath. I'd rather pay an extra $35-40 for a more robust leather sheath that includes a ferro rod loop. Anyway, great review!...thanks for doing this one.
Looks like an excellent knife for the price. All those mods you have done to Jessica Chris and you didn't take 60 seconds out of you day to sharpen the spine?
Yeah ok. Go ahead and post a video of you sharpening a BK7 in 60 seconds. You'd need a heavy duty grinder to do that. I MIGHT let one if the guys at Survival Tactics try it with Jess-1 but I dont NEED it. I have plenty of other ways to strike a ferro rod.
True, but you spent multiple days maybe a week modding the knife. I respect that you choose not to sharpen the spine, DC is off frowning somewhere, but my point is you had plenty of TIME to do it.