Well, we have eliminated a lot of things. What I haven't mentioned in the videos is Greg has a noticeable engine knock when it's under load. When the engine is running and the transmission is in park or neutral, the engine isn't knocking. As soon as he puts it in gear, drive or reverse, the engine has a knock in the lower end. We're going to check the timing and see if it's off but there just might be something majorly wrong with the engine and it's just a matter of time before it fails.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey Timmy I could really use your help with my '01 4runner. I think I need to replace my ECU. I have gremlins that appeared after 1st trip thru a car wash since I bought it in March. That was April. I can't figure it out since. My windshield seal seams ok. My AC condenser drain hose has been removed and cleaned out, had no clog. But what happens is my door locks and turn signals just start going off while driving now even on dry days no rain no car wash. Do you think it's the ECU? Thanks man you are THE most informative! I'm a subscriber since I got my 4runner!
@@hsing4903 Hard to say what it is but the fact it started happening right after the car wash does lead you to believe water got in where it shouldn't have. I wish I could point you in the right direction but diagnosing electrical issues is not my strong suit. You might want to post this question on the T4R.org forum in the 3rd Gen section and see what people say. There's a guy with a screen name, "The Durk" that's really good with electrical that usually chimes in when an electrical question is posted. I don't think you're issue is the ECU because that's pretty protected under the dash but I guess there is a chance it could be the culprit. Good luck and let me know what you find out.
@@TimmyTheToolman Check the wires closely, a mouse did some chewing on the wires running to my #1 cyl coil pack. he just chewed enough to where they grounded out together. Lil bastid
I had a spark plug blow out a few months ago...it was held in mostly by the coil pack. I put a helicoil in and it was a successful helicoil. But, the engine was still feeling like it was intermittently misfiring randomly. Checked the plugs, wires and timing. While I was checking the timing, I just happened to touch the plug wires right where the timing cover says 3400. The problem ended up being the wires were pinched the slightest bit. I replaced with oem words and brand new wire clip separator things from Toyota. Problem was instantly fixed and hasn't happened for over 10,000 miles so far. Check every inch of those wires, I bet that's the problem. Something like wind from the fan can just move those wires the slightest bit, and cause a random misfire. Good luck, keep the vids coming buddy. We all appreciate you more than you know.
I just pulled my ecu out of my 2000 toyota tundra. I didn't know if I wanted to try it myself but after watching this I gave it a try and it could not have been simpler. Hopefully when I get the replacement it will go back in just as easy. Thanks so much for your help!
Good News for you!! Question... why did you have to replace it? what issue were you having? I'm having a shift solenoid problem. the transmission and the solenoid checked out so now the dealer is telling me that the ECT ECU is next. Any Online sources for for an ECU? Thanks
About 5 years ago, my 1996 tacoma was having similar issues, not responding well when pressing down on the pedal, I did all of the things this guy mentioned (spark plugs,, ignition coil, O2 sensors, cat converter...)and was taking the fuel rail off and about to test the injectors when someone said to try replacing the computer. I bought one, put it in and the truck drove great for another 5 years! Now, I replaced the alternator and battery, and have been going down the line with the exact same issues again. I had completely forgotten that I did all of that 5 years ago! Took a month for the ECU to come in the mail. I'm about to install it! Hope this does it again! I'll have to update this post if it works!
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for asking. It starts fine, used to idle okay then eventually stall out, now after many previous ECM reset attempts, it starts fine, idles for less time then starts struggling,shakes a lot, and stalls. Does not respond normally when I put the pedal down, it just sputters and backfires and stalls...
Tim, this video is so de ja vu for me. I just spent 8(!) months trying to solve the very same P0305 code! And I found this: Multiple vacuum flaws, only 90 psi in cylinder 4(!) [versus 145 in cylinder 5]. I have arrived at this thought: The programming in the ECU has a BUG! This will never go away, except with a new model, imho. I still get a P0305 on engine start, hot or cold. fugetaboutit! My rig is a 2000 gen 1 Tundra, 3.4l base model. I'm getting a rebuilt 3.4l from Yota! in June, btw. Another thought: a speeding teenager t-boned my right front in 2010, maybe that weakened the internals of the ecu. But I'm setting my mind on the bug answer. Keep Healthy!!
Good luck figuring it out. Greg's misfire problem ended up being gross play in the crankshaft causing an audible knock. We think the knock sensors were originating the misfire CEL. He ended up selling his Tacoma because he didn't want to spend the money to replace the engine. He didn't use the truck that much so he decided to get rid of it.
@@TimmyTheToolmanI know this is years old, but I was having the same issues you were describing at the beginning of the video with my 97 4Runner! It ended up being a few vacuum leaks, fuel filter and clogged injectors. Love you videos man, thanks for the info!
Glad you're a fan of our detailed style. Being thorough means an absolute beginner can be successful using our videos and that's what we're after. We want EVERYONE to be successful using our videos as a tutorial and not just the experienced DIYer or paid mechanic. Thanks for the comment and Happy Wrenching!
Great job explaining how to remove/replace the ECU. I just sent mine for repair, a 1997 Toyota 4 Runner that cranks but wouldnt start. The mechanic said it was an ECU issue. This old timer thanks you! Be well Tim.
No there was nothing wrong with the ECU. It was something in the gas tank that went bad. The meineke shop that said it was the ECU and they couldn't fix was wrong
I kept getting a misfire code on my 2001 Toyota Tundra and found out that one of my spark plugs on cylinder 5 was not gapped appropriately. It was almost completely closed. I removed it and gapped it to the appropriate gap specs and it cleared the code👍🏽
Hey awesome stuff! Thanks for sharing your fix. We hope your comment will help someone in the future. We appreciate you taking the time to come back to our video!
Does the ecu also control the transmission shifting points. Reason being my door jam tag identification tag has a tire size or 225/75r16. Does the ecu transmission shifting points go off the vehicle's tire size. Therefore if I got a ecu from a 3rd gen with a tag that read 265/75r16, would the ecu transmission shifting points be at a different setting? Because I wanted to put say a larger tire would it benefit me to than change the ecu over from a 3rd gen with a stock larger size tire "265/75r16 " Thanks Timmy 😄
I would think the ECU controls the shift points. I doubt the shift points is based off tire size. From what I've seen with my 3rd Gens, it's based off speed and rpms. Changing the tire size from the stock size to a larger size and keeping the gearing in the differentials the same will throw off the speedometer a little and thus change the shift points some. One thing that changes the shift points is using the ECT button. It tells the transmission to hold the gear longer before upshifting. The only way to improve the power of your rig after putting larger tires on is to re-gear your differentials. I'm running 4.30 gearing on my 98 with 33" tires. I also have lots of added weight with aftermarket bumpers, winch, full belly of aftermarket skids, and a steel roof rack. I'm going to re-gear to 4.88 soon.
@@TimmyTheToolman, many thanks for the info. This was one has had me puzzled for some time now. Going to change the gearing to 4:30 today. Also many many thanks for all the videos you put together. Don't know how far my rig would be if it wasn't for your channel. Thank you 🙂 👍
Great vid, not sure if this is connected to my problem. I have a 98 Tacoma and driving home one day my speedo, tach, radio all stopped working. Truck still running I went straight home, I got home and turned it off and it hasn't started since. Been troubleshooting and noticed my 80 amp ALT fuse was burnt. Replaced it, but still nothing. Everything is still the same. Any ideas? Wondering if my ECU is done??? Thank a bunch
Check the harmonic balancer pulley for play.. seen a guy have huge amounts of play in it because of the woodruff key. He's got a video of it on UA-cam too. Good luck! Hope you find it!
Is there any reprogramming that needs to be done? Toyota dealer claimed that a new ECU would need to be programmed to my vehicle. I understand in many vehicles the keys are programmed with radio chips or specific resistors that unlock the immobilizer. Do I need to worry about this in my 1998 4Runner?
It was actually a Tacoma, and we did check the compression on all 6 cylinders. We figured out that the issue was crankshaft play. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/v-deo.htmlsi=oPFwtNBaWFdDFoum
I wouldn’t use any pliers, you risk breaking the connector. Be patient, use your hand, and wiggle it while pressing down on the connector. This is something you don’t want to break, just be patient.
Mine has the same problem and I am about to replace the ECU too I’m driving no problem no issues and once is warm if I turn it off and start again I have a misfire , if I don’t then I can drive it perfect no issues
@ChrispyTofoo For the application we were doing, there were no issues. I can't say if there wouldn't be an issue with newer and more sophisticated systems.
Also, pairing exact 2004 engine, ECU and transmission from donor truck. Just the wiring that's not lining up. I plan to pull wire connector out of 2004 and and put wires from top of glove box in right positions in it. Just 2004 had an extra small harness on top of large one on glove box. Will I still have all the wiring I need? Thank you. And its 2.7L swap from 2004 into 2.7L 1997.
Hey, Timmy! Thank you for your video. I have a broken braket. It is specifically the bracket that holds one of the 4 screws of the pilot seat, I am surprised how thin that metal is. So my question is, do you think I should unplug the ECU before welding that bracket? I am afraid of damaging sensors or electronics of the truck with the welding. It is also hard to find a place to place the earth clamp as close as possible to the spot.
Good vid. Not too applicable with my car (Mitsubishi 380/Galant) but good to watch nonetheless. An ECU repairer said they're able to copy the data from my current ECU to the replacement one, and then I'll swap them out. I have an aircon issue which has been diagnosed by another ECU repairer to be an issue with the output circuit in the ECU.
good explanation friend I am trying to repair my truck 4runner 2002 cylinder # 6 says the code change, several parts and I can not fix, change spark plugs cables coils oxygen sensor 1 and 2 maf sensor Fuel pump, fuel filter catalyst 1,2 and the exhaust now I want to change the engine computer ,,, my question is the computer that you are changing that is the part that I need or not
How about the fuel filter? If that has never been changed it could seriously limit fuel flow. Is the cylinder that is misfiring one of the last ones in line to get fuel?
I know you are probably running down the list on DI-57 in the FSM, but I don't recall you checking the vacuum lines. Sucks his rig is throwing the code, but at least he's in good hands troubleshooting the problem.
That's a good point and thanks for reminding about this. We did have his engine fairly torn apart and didn't notice any problems with the vacuum lines but the next time I get Greg over my place I'm going to take a good look at them.
Hey Timmy, I have a 96 camry 3.0, and has a code 92 ecu malfuction on abs. Found one at a junk yard , same part number, hope it clears the ABS continuous light.
No, it's not. It's located in the passenger side kick panel. Check out this video at play time 25 minutes and 20 seconds ua-cam.com/video/2V30K7ePLMM/v-deo.html and you'll see how to access the ECU.
Hi Tim, you mentioned misfire cylinder #1 was it an injector code or ignition code? I had misfire (slightly rough idle) but a P0440 code, 98 Taco V6. My problem was a cracked vacuum hose top of the intake plenum. I used a can of Starting Fluid and sprayed around my hose connection points and found several hoses that needed replacing. If no bad vacuum hoses then a compression, leak down test would be next. Good luck and look forward to a resolution.
The code Greg is getting is a P0301, misfire of the #1 cylinder. We had the top of his engine torn apart for the fuel injectors replacement and didn't notice any glaring problems with the vacuum hoses. But, I'm going to take a good look at them again when he comes over next.
@@ShaunCapoferri Yes, it was. It ended up being gross play in the crankshaft causing the misfire. His engine had an engine knock that I finally figured out where it was coming from. The knock sensors must have been initiating the misfire code to the ECU. Check out the video. ua-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman hmm… he had a misfire though caused by the ecu? Very similar problem on my 97 started misfiring out of nowhere and all test are good.
@@ShaunCapoferri The ECU didn't cause the misfire. The knock sensors generated it and then sent the message to the ECU. The real cause was the play in the crankshaft causing the engine knock.
Mine didn’t. I had to look up how to jump The OBD 2 ports on 4 and 13. I matched the make model year and all that and it wouldn’t start until I synced the new computer to the car. You guy’s video missed that instruction. Unless there is a way to wipe the new ECU that I don’t know about
TJack Survival I wonder why we didn’t have to reset the one we had then. Anyway, I guess we were lucky or maybe you were unlucky. Our ECU was the exact part number as the original. Was that the case with your swap?
We eventually did a leak down test of the #1 cylinder. It was fine. The problem ended up being gross play in the crank shaft which caused an audible engine knock that the knock sensors were picking up and generating the misfire. We suspected the thrust washers gave way and we were right. Greg decided to sell the truck and the guy who bought it dropped the oil pan and found pieces of the thrust washers on the bottom of the pan.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks so much for rescribing this. I think I have exactly the same problem with the same engine on the no 2 cylinder. It has been driving me mad. I have been on the verge of swapping out the ECU. Where the engine rests for a few hours, it starts and drives perfectly. After about an hour, the no 2 cylinder misfires and then the engine must cool down again before it works. Enough to drive anyone insane.
What was the final diagnosis of his misfire? I am having the same problem with my 2002 Tundra. We are putting in a new computer this week, but if that doesn’t work, we have already checked most other things.
Hi, Tim. I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma that has had misfire problems for years. I finally had a garage that diagnosed the ECM-O2 sensor problem. They said they found "1 sensor 2 inop. There is a TSB that states when down stream O2 sensor is not reading an updated ECM will need to be installed along with a new bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor." I want to replace the ECM myself because it'll be a lot less expensive than the $1500 the garage wants to do it for me. Will the O2 sensor have to be replaced at the same time or can it be done afterwards if needed?
I'm not sure about your question, It seems the worst that could happen is you'll throw a CEL code if the upstream O2 sensor isn't working well with the new ECU.
Hi Tim, great video! Does the ECU on the 2002 have an "in-mobilizer" that requires the ECU to be reprogramed after replacing? The reason I'm asking is my 2002 T4R 3.4L Limited is flooding the moment you try to start it & my mechanic here in Colorado replaced the crank shaft sensor, the fuel injectors, the ECU, tested the O2 sensors & MAF and still the same problem. It will run for about 1 second then it dies. He says the moment you put the key in he ignition and turn it on "accessories" position without starting the engine, it is calling for and sending fuel... Any thoughts please? Thank you in advance
@jerrykraus3621 I'm not sure it needs to be reprogrammed. Sounds like your mechanic threw a bunch of parts at the problem, not knowing what the root cause is. It could be an issue with your throttle body.
@@TimmyTheToolman I agree, the mechanic already replaced the Throttle Position Sensor & Throttle Body. Have you ever had to re-program the ECU? ps; I sent you some beer money via paypal
@@TimmyTheToolman You are the best! I can't thank you enough for all the help you've been over the years Tim. If you lived closer I wouldn't let anyone touch my T4R other than you Sir!
I honestly don't even know if the VIN is stored in the ECU but that wouldn't change anything with the performance of the vehicle. As long as the ECU came from the same year, make and model, the ECU does not require reprogramming.
The only scan tool I tried out was using Techstream on an old windows laptop. I used it in regards to the misfire problem I was trying to figure out for Greg's Tacoma in this video. It didn't really help me out. I wish I was more experienced in using scan tools to diagnose problems like this but I'm not. I do have a buddy Mark that uses a Snap On scan tool and he says it works really well but it's also really expensive. I do monitor my engine with the Torque Pro app getting information from the OBD II port, but it's mainly so I can closely monitor coolant temp, trans temp, charging volts, and to look up any CELs that pop up.
Well, the obvious choice is at your local Lexus or Toyota dealer. If you want to save money, you can search for a wrecked 2006 GX470 at a PicknPull that's the same model. I don't know if there were different trim models like they have for 4runners like SR5 and Limited. With those differences, the ECU will be different as well because the electronica are a bit different like the difference between a J-shifter for the transfer case on the SR5 models and a push button actuator for the Limited models. So, you can go on the PicknPull website and do a search for your year and model and see what you come up with. If you find one or more, you go there, pay your $2 entry fee and hope one of the rigs that's there still have the ECU in it. I don't know where the ECU is on the GX470 but my guess is it's behind the glove box like it is on a lot of other Toyota and Lexus models. Here's a link to a video of us swapping out a ECU on a 1st Gen Tacoma. ua-cam.com/video/5-t69mMpazg/v-deo.html Another option is you do a search online and maybe someone is selling one on Ebay or wherever.
I'm about to do the same repair because of the same misfire problem, but it looks like this didn't solve it- do you know what will or has there been any success with solving Greg's misfire problem?
Hi Tim, Thanks for the videos, they've been a great resource. I'm working on an 01 4runner SR5, and swapped out the ECM to try to resolve an ABS problem. The ECM is from FlagShip One and comes programmed with my VIN. After replacing the ECM the truck doesn't start. I thought it was an immobilizer problem, but I can't seem to find good info on this particular issue for this generation. Have you run into this before?
@@goose610 Did you contact FlagShip One and ask them for guidance? I would think they would have some insight on your issue. Maybe your ECU wasn't programmed correctly by them.
Currently having this issue, replaced everything other than the engine itself and then happened to wiggle my wiring and the misfire would go away, the ignition coil wire plug on the harness for cyl 3 was sensitive enough to cause the truck to stall if touched, I replaced it, soldered in a new end, and it fixed the sensitivity but there is still somewhere in the harness along the firewall where if I pull it/wiggle just right it will run right so I’m currently trying to track this/debate if the whole harness is fried
Thank you for the response! No I have no signs of rodents but I’m currently working on it, and have the harness exposed but still connected, I’ve found the TPS black/yellow wire has 750ohms resistance but fluctuates easily when I wiggle the harness, yes the plug is secure so no false readings, the sensitivity seems to travel the length of the wire going into the firewall so I may be removing the harness inside to replace this single wire as no other wires are showing a varying resistance when moved
@@AutorRepairReviewsMaybe you would be better off to give it a good 10amp draw, just to clear out any rouge dissident electrons hiding out on crimp connection wire ends.
Hi Timmy. I would appreciate your help. My 4 runner turned off and I have already checked all the sensors and fuses. the gasoline pump the gasoline filter. but I'll be there but the engine won't start. It has started a few times but I have to give it gas to keep it on and if I don't it turns off and the engine won't start again. I have also checked the fuel regulator and the throttle bar. I appreciate your response as soon as possible
Hi Tim, thanks for your great videos, I have a similar problem with my 97 4runner, it suddenly shuts off at low revs or sometimes it just won't start and I have to let it sit for a few minutes before turning it back on, we've already checked almost everything and We do not see what the solution could be, the code P1300 is always read. Do you have any idea what could be the problem? I appreciate your comments
Hey Wilson, the code is telling you the problem. The P1300 is an igniter issue. The igniter bolts on top of the passenger side fender in the engine compartment near the cruise control unit. It's a flat looking box that's around 3" x 3" with a very large electrical connector. I'm guessing the igniter has an intermittent issue. Replace it and I bet your problems go away.
I have a question. Putting a 2004 2.7L into a 1997 Tacoma. With a swap of ECU, still have the wire port on top of glove box that doesn't have same connection. Do I need to repin to the 2004 setup. Have a full donor vehicle.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi, this is a very good question from lizperr because I thought the vehicle’s ECU and transponder key were somewhat programmed to each other.
As long as the ECU came out of the same year and model rig, you should not have to flash it. As for the mileage on the odometer, I'm unsure about that.
Timmy The Toolman i bought an replacement ECU, same part number as my old one. All it would do is turn over. Im wondering if my chipped key is tripping the security
We checked the compression of all cylinders and they checked out good. I didn't bother with the leak down test because of the initial compression test. But, we are going to perform a leak down test soon and check the timing.
@@TimmyTheToolman start looking electrical check the injector triggers with a noid light. also if you can have a shop with an oscilloscope check the ignition side for correct triggering of the coils and ignition patterns. A head gasket could also be the cause the chemical testers are pretty cheap to test. I have seen electrical issues plague diagnostics. I wouldn't throw anymore parts at it but run through the diagnostic flow charts for those codes and make sure the wiring is good as well your FSM should have those diag. flow charts. Mr Squirrel and Mouse like cause issues that may not be seen even just over night. I hate the shotgun method and guessing and stuff that goes on in the forums as well as in the comments below. I like seeing testing being done to rule out issues before parts being thrown at it. That's just the mechanic/technician in me.
@@scooter041031 I hear you. I'm trying to be methodical and diagnose but sometimes replacing things that are probably ready to be replaced isn't such a bad thing. Greg replaced his spark plugs and wires trying to fix this problem but guys do this as preventative maintenance. We replaced the upstream Air/Fuel sensor and downstream O2 sensor, but again, guys replace these thinking their mpg will improve due to a lazy O2 sensor. Fuel injectors can show they are electrically fine, but who knows if they are partially clogged which could be causing the misfire? So, we decided to replace the fuel injectors with some refurbished ones. After the fuel injectors were replaced, Greg said his engine had more power and a better throttle response so I didn't consider that a waste of time or money. So far, the one thing we did that was truly throwing parts at it was this ECU replacement. I was just going for the long shot since somebody on T4R.org said he had a long time misfire problem and a replacement ECU fixed it. We've eliminated a lot of things and we're still searching. Next step is a leak down test and checking the timing.
@@scooter041031 I forgot to mention that Greg took his rig to a Toyota Dealership a long time ago and it didn't sound like they put much effort into figuring it out for him. I would have figured since they have diagnostic tools like an oscilloscope they would be better equipped to find the culprit for the misfire. I know being able to diagnose a problem like this is the difference between a "Technician" and a "Parts Replacer". Hopefully we'll get some answers from the leak down test and the timing check.
Got a 1993 Toyota pickup truck with the 3L V6 in it mine's doing about the same thing! After a few miles number one misfire comes up code. About 10 to 20 miles this time I've been tinkering with it and it didn't come on until 50 miles and it came up again. Seems to be getting very bad gas mileage. Those the gas tank and as somebody change the fuel pump but did not put the rubber plug in for the wires on top of the gas tank and come to figure out they was driving it for about 10 years like that! I could not believe what I was seeing in the fuel filter the fuel filter was completely stopped up change it but still did not fix my problem? If I figure it out I'll give you a shout out! I'm about done the same thing you and you guys are done. Keep the good job up! I want to do a new map sensor? Maybe?
Hey Tim, just keep eliminating the possibilities. If you have access to TIS techstream look at the misfire counters while driving around to verify that only #1 is misfiring and the exact conditions that are causing a misfire count increase. Other cylyinders may be misfiring but not enough to throw a code for that cylinder. Then move to the Leakdown test to see if/where it's leaking, then check the timing belt and the timing pulleys. I have seen it before on a 5vz that the crank timing pulley woodruff key slot wallors out allowing it to rotate slightly relative to the crank causing the engine to have a misfire under load because of a small timing error. If those tests and checks don't bring the issue to light then it's a difficult to find electrical issue in the harness or the grounds. May the Toyota gods be with you...
Thanks Jacob. I do have Techstream and was looking at it while we were driving. I was watching the misfire counts but didn't come across and Ah-Hah moments that let me know where the problem lies. Maybe I just don't know what to look for. The driving conditions were just mellow city and freeway driving. I have a leak down tester and a timing light so we'll see what those show us.
I think it is equal to a 4runner 2005 6 cyl, .. Because my toyota i turn on the shiwcht and I have lights on the dash but it doesn't turn on, I turn on the starter and if it works .. but not with the key, I already checked the fuses and they are all fine .. I don't even know where to check .. and it was so by chance, it turned on very well when I went home and stopped in a store and did not want to turn on, but it had rained a lot .. greetings from Chicago
Are these ECU’s completely sealed? I have a 2001 Tundra and when it’s left out overnight during a hard rain, it roughs extremely rough and a hard time accelerating. Feels and sounds like multiple cylinders misfiring. The truck does have some rust and I was thinking maybe water was dripping into the ECU? Or maybe on the wires going into the unit? When the truck dries out, it runs fine. Also, if I drive it for a while in that condition it seems to clear up as well. Any ideas?
The ECU is basically a metal case. Is it waterproof, probably not, but it is waterproof resistant. If water is getting to the ECU you would see water dripping from under the dashboard on the passenger side. The water would make its way to lowest point which is the floor on the passenger side. If your rig only does this after a hard rain, it seems logical the water is getting somewhere to affect something but I'm not so sure it's the ECU. Have you examined under the hood to see if water is pooling in areas. Maybe it's one of your electrical grounds.
Hey Tim just want ur input on this: well my Father does lol: The Mobil 1 oil filter that he bought says it's good for up to a year or 20,000 miles. Do u recommend leaving an oil filter on a vehicle that long? Thanks!
No, I don't but I use OEM Toyota filters. I just switched to using full synthetic oil so I'm going to change my oil and filter every 5k miles. The longest interval I've seen people go with synthetic oil is 10k. So in your dad's case, would he replace the oil say every 10k and then replace the filter every 20k? Or, would he try to push both the oil and filter to the 20k interval? I would not let the oil go for 20k miles. If he replaces the oil more frequently than filter, than he'll have to replace the oil that fills the filter every time he renews the filter. The easiest way to do an oil change is to replace both at the same time. So, my recommendation is to start with a 5k oil change and send a sample of your oil to Blackstone Labs for an oil analysis. If they say the oil looks really good with lots of lubricating properties left, increase the interval to 7.5k and do another oil analysis. If it still looks good, bump it up to 10k. Like I said, I don't think it's worth pushing it past 10k. Hope this helps.
@@israelrodriguez6986 Well, if he wants to believe Mobil that it's good for 20k miles, than yeah, he can do that. I personally wouldn't push the interval that high no matter what a company tells me. But, that's just me. Oil filters aren't that expensive or that hard to change for me to risk that long of an interval. If the filter gets dirty enough that flow is inhibited to your engine, this convenience of only changing the filter every 20k just cost you an engine. It's not worth it to me. I guess you could search online in Toyota forums for people who are saying this kind of interval is fine with a Mobil 1 oil filters. I'm just not going to acknowledge for you that it's a good idea because I would never do this with my vehicles.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for your reply but I guess my question is does an ECU on a 1996 Toyota 4runnwe require reprogramming like the new models so? I hear it doesn't but is that true or accurate.
@@TimmyTheToolman know of any reputable places that repairs ECU for the 1996 Toyota $ Runner? I see alot of them on online but I wonder how they repair them. I always keep a spare ECU and my original is not working properly.
i have seen other videos indicating the new ecu has to be programmed (2005 4runner) and ignition was in the on position for several minutes. other vids ive seen indicate new ignition keys for a new ecu. be a first replacing such for me.
@@TimmyTheToolman means best bet will be going to the toyota parts counter, vs a wrecker and dealing with that accuracy , thank you for the vid very nice
It ended up being gross crankshaft play. His engine did have an audible knock and we finally figured out what it was. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for your reply!!!👍😁👍. I love that despite some like you have so many subscribers you still manage to reply to so many. When i see stuff like that its instant subscription. ✌️👍👍
@@pitchforkpeasant6219 You're very welcome. We do our best to answer people's questions and acknowledge their comments. Thanks for recognizing us for that. Happy Wrenching!
Hey there, do you know if a 1997 ECU will transfer into my '98 4runner? Doing a manual transmission swap (have all '98 parts from a donor vehicle, but don't have an ecu)... found a '97 manual transmission 3.4L 4x4 ecu, but not sure if it will transfer ok? all the prongs are same at '98. any info would be great, no worries if not sure! Thanks for your videos, they have been helpful and certainly thorough.
I'm not sure but I think there's a good chance it will work because I don't remember there being any changes between the 98 and 97 models. You'd just have to do more research to see if there was something electrically different in the components between the two years that would cause a problem with the component talking with the ECU. That's about the best advice I can give you. You could also see if the part number for the ECU from Toyota is the same for both years.
Hi Tim, great video! In the process of trying to fix my 01 Tacoma 3.4L prerunner and thinking of replacing ECU as a last resort. Starts great but shuts off immediately like the key was switched off. Once in a blue moon it will stay running and runs great when it does. New OEM fuel pump, fuel filters (in tank and line), spark plugs, new battery and terminals. Coil packs have normal resistance (~1 ohm) All fuses are good (checked with voltmeter). New OEM MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve. No changes. I cannot figure this out and it’s driving me crazy! It doesn’t bog out when it dies like it’s being starved for air or fuel. It’s like the key is turned off. Any thoughts on what could be causing it to shut off right after starting?
Engine is not eating coolant so I doubt it's a head gasket issue. But we are going to check the timing and do a leak down test of the cylinder even though the compression test was good.
Im working on my 2002 4runner and i bought an exact replacement ecu but it just cranks. Runs fine with the OG ecu but i keep getting a pedal postion error after replacing the entire throttle body. The manual says to check the 2 voltages from that sensor and the supply voltage are good, to replace the ecu. I have tis and it says immobilizer B2796. Not sure whats going on. Any idea? It doesnt have a chip key.
Replace ECU is really eazy just plug and unplug harness but all you need is a good scanner that can handle ECU,PCM match to married inmobilizer to ECU other wise vehicle wont start. I did it in my Honda Accord 08 I jut had to fallow the scaner instruction like swich key on swich key off but probably some brands and model don't required reprogramming. .
I'm not sure. The reason why ours matched is because I picked up the replacement ECU from the exact same year and model truck as Greg's. Is the ECU you're thinking of installing from the same year and same model as yours?
@@TimmyTheToolman I haven't located one as of yet but I was unsure if they had a year range where they are compatible. I have a 2002 4runner limited 2wd.
@@ce0687 Well, I really think your best bet is to find the same year and model (2wd or 4wd, Manual Trans or Automatic Trans) and then you won't have any issues.
@@ce0687 I found the one I bought on Tacoma World. A guy was parting out a truck. I'd search the Toyota forums in the classified sections, search Craigslist and search Ebay. You could also search your local wrecking yards like a PicknPull.
I have an 02 tundra that I can’t get ready for smog. O2 sensor and Evacuation keep saying not ready. Any suggestions? I’ve done multiple drive cycles and driven this truck for a few months and still nothing.
I'm not sure. I have never gone through a problem like this. I have heard that the drive cycles are fairly specific on what you need to do in order for it to clear and be ready to smog but I've never performed one of these drive cycles for one of my vehicles.
@@Blkdelillah Are you performing the drive cycles as suggested or are you just driving it normally? I remember reading about what a drive cycle entailed and it was very specific on how you need to drive the vehicle to get the code to clear.
@@htownboy2k The one I swapped into the Greg's rig came from the exact year and model and had the same part number on it. His rig ran without issue with the donor ECU and we did not reprogram it. So, I'm sure as long as you're swapping in an ECU from the same year and model and it has the same part number stamped on it.
Had the same issue before with my Honda. Did a leak down and air was getting pass the exhaust valves as air can be heard from tail pipe. Turns out my valve seats were shot which didn't create a solid seal between the valves and valve seats. As my auto shop teacher always said "diagnosis before throwing parts a car"
Goodluck! A leak down is always better. Worse case, the head will have to come off and take a trip to a machine shop. Anyways great vids and awesome channel. I've been watching since I was gifted a 3rd gen 4runner and learned a lot. Keep up the work!
Hey bro this is not a ecu question but there’s a clicking noise coming from the fan area under the same area but to the left do you know what I’m talking about
I know this vid is old but I had the same issue on my Tacoma. I too replaced coil packs since mine has 130k miles , I have newish denso iridium plugs and wires. But I still had the miss on cylinder 1 and 4. What I found is that one cold night a mouse decided to crawl up in my engine compartment to stay warm and he chewed on some wires. If I ever catch that little focker Im gonna pulverize him.
@tedslife7086 If it's the same model and year, for the most part, yes. There could be an issue with the mileage reported by the odometer because it could be a value stored by the ECU and maybe other issues I'm not thinking about. What I'm trying to say is I've never tried it on your model, so I can't give you any guarantees.
Not sure if you've had experience with this but my idle air control valve is continuously clicking and now my 4runner cranks but won't start. I changed the valve with a new one but it's clicking still and won't start. Do you think it would have anything to do with the ecu?
Hard to say but it certainly could be a problem with the ECU. Have you examined the wiring harness that the IAC plug comes off of? Maybe there's a short somewhere. Sometimes rodents can get into your engine compartment and chew up the wiring.
Hi Tim, I'm in a pickle and hoping to hear your suggestions. My 5vzfe is using what looks like a 4x4 A/T ECU with 4 blocky plugs (similar looking to a 1995 Tacoma's ECU). And no the label is wiped off so I don't have the part number. Now, I've tried to wire it to the OBD2 port using E5-18 SDL as the signal wire on Pin2, ground on Pin 4,5 and Battery on Pin16 but I cannot get it to work. I've alternatively connected E5-18 SDL to Pin 7 of the OBD2 port and that doesn't work either. I'm starting to think it's because my JDM ECU does not support OBD2. Do you know any other wiring schemes I could try? I am also open to other advice as to what I should do moving forward. Thanks for your help.
That's interesting that you say you have a 4-plug ECU. All the ones I've seen for the 5VZ-FE motor for 4runners and Tacomas have been 5 plug. Maybe that's your issue right there. But, maybe that's how the Japanese JDM issues are wired. You've hit a topic I'm not well-versed on and that's auto electrical. I do have a 2000 wiring diagram in my possession that I could take a look at and see what I see. Do you actually have a 98 wiring diagram in your possession? If not, you can pay $20 for a two-day subscription to Toyota Tech info and access the info you seek. The only caveat is you need a Windows based computer to use their site. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&challenge_url=techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/login/techinfo&password=secure_string&request_id=-6604130355241257782&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F At the very very bottom of the page I linked, there's a link you can click on to show the system requirements. What I did is bought a refurbished laptop from an Ebay seller so I could use the Tech Info website. This the computer I bought from a seller with a good reputation: www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E6420-Laptop-Windows-7-8GB-RAM-250GB-256GB-SSD/292385184197?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks I think you've just pointed me in the right direction 😄😄. After reading your response I realized something. I assumed that my 4 plug ECU was comparable to the early Tacoma's and therefore I was only looking at the 95 Tacoma wiring pinout. But just noticed that some late years also had the 4 plug ECU with a different pinout. So maybe my ECU is comparable to these and I was connecting to the wrong pins. So all hope isn't lost and my ECU may supports OBD2 🤞🏻🤞🏻😊. And I have the ECU pinout in PDF for almost all years of 5vzfe Tacoma and 4runners and also have the complete wiring diagram for some but thanks for sharing the resource. I'm surprised you only see the 5 plug ECU though. I have found a number of different US based UA-camrs using the 4 block ECU on their trucks🤔
@@spago555 Well, I've only seen two ECUs so far, one from a 1st Gen Tacoma and one from a 3rd Gen 4runner and they were both 5 plug ECUs so I just assumed they were all 5 plug.
@@TimmyTheToolman Ahh okayy. I'm going to attempt to wire the OBD2 again tonight. In case I fail I'll just have to source a USDM ECU then 🤔 Thanks for your help Tim.
Arturo Alvarado typically it doesn’t require programMing. Not sure about your specific vehicle but it’s close enough in year to make me assume it won’t need programMing.
For the most part the check engine light on my 4Runner had been on. Less than a week ago I had a low mileage engine replacement and STILL the check engine light is on! Please Timmy The Toolman can you help me? In the past having a 250,000 mile engine brought some concern about the light. Now with this differnet engine Im really concerned! Could it be the ECU? Is there a common reason fir the 5vz fe?
My 1998 had a busted plug at the coil an it arched on my harness wires. I think it fried my ecu. I lost all spark completely after I saw the arching an tried to arrange things so it couldn’t anymore. Replacement ecu will be here tomorrow an I’ll see if it fixes my spark issue. I replaced coils and plugs and wires already to no avail.
I wonder if it could have fried your igniter. It's bolted to the driver side fender in the engine compartment. I'm not sure what happened would fry your ECU.
We didn't think about the VIN. We were just interested in fixing the misfire problem. You would have to reprogram the ECU and I don't know if that's worth it. As long as you get an ECU from the same year and model rig, the ECU will work and keep your vehicle on the road.
@@TimmyTheToolman Do 2000 Corolla ECU's necessarily need to be reprogrammed? That is to say, if I procure an ECU with a matching model number from a donor vehicle that is of the same year, is it likely to work without needing to be reprogrammed? The key is literally just a metal key with no immobilizer, if that helps.
@@TimmyTheToolman Okay. Cool. That is what I thought. I get a lot of conflicting answers from sellers on eBay. Some say reprogramming will be needed while others say the replacement should work just fine without. This is to try and solve an endless P0171 issue as the LTFT comes in at 39%. I have replaced the fuel cap, PCV valve, 02 sensor, MAF sensor, and air intake gasket. A mechanic believes it is the ECU as the car runs fine otherwise. I think I'll change the fuel injectors while I'm at it, too. The car is due to get smogged in April so time is something of the essence.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have put in one of the ECUs and it works fairly well without needing to be programmed. LTFT came in lower but still around 28 - 31% so it seems the ECU was not the culprit. With that said, it has been a wild ride with the injectors leaking due to the injector o-rings tearing or getting chewed up. Thankfully, I have a lot of spares and I have gotten better at inserting and lubricating them. I finally managed to get the injectors to stop leaking but then I was hit with numerous low-300 misfire codes plus P0172 (running too rich). I read up on the misfires and the lower seals needed to be lubricated so I used vasiline. No more 300 codes but I still have P0172. LTFT goes down to -26%, which is quite ironic considering I've been dealing with P0171 for the longest time. The car idles softly like it may sputter out when I drive slowly or stop I assume this rich condition is from all of the excess fuel that went into the cylinders/engine from dealing with the recurring leaks and lifting the rail up and back so much and gas going into the port holes. It's not like it was a water hose or anything but still a decent amount over time as I couldn't run the engine with the injectors leaking. Will this rich fuel condition work itself out with the engine drying on its own the more I drive or what can I do?
Well if you’re talking Tacoma, we think yes (1995.5) but I would recommend getting the same year if possible to avoid any compatibility problems you could encounter with that early first year Tacoma ECU. - Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah I have a 1995 tacoma 5vzfe 225k miles. Changed everything out that would fix a p0303. Nothing. The code remains to come back after a few drives. Mechanic told me it could be a computer issue since the truck runs decent considering the mileage (226k). Found one at a junkyard but it’s a 1997 with the same engine.
Depends on how much you find a used ECU for. eBay has them in a range of prices for the same ECU, it just depends on what the seller is asking.. the cost to replace it is FREE if you do it yourself. As you can see from this video, it’s pretty straightforward. A couple interior panels, screws and electrical connectors and it’s out. - Sean
Hey will a 4wd control module from a 2004 v6 Tacoma with e locker work in my 2004 Tacoma 2.7 4wd that I put a complete axle and complete factory wire harness from a 2004 Tacoma v6 truck. And I have the existing plug on the harness for the computer. I just read online 2001 was the last year I could get the option of a e locker in a 2.7 Tacoma. They are rare but I have seen them at a dealership. It was a factory add on if you bought the truck new
Timmy The Toolman now where to find them used? All the salvage yards have the black module I can’t find the green module behind the aux plug anywhere! Any leads? Been searching Tacoma world today I just made a account
I hate he is having problems but us folks who love your videos are benefiting.
Well, we have eliminated a lot of things. What I haven't mentioned in the videos is Greg has a noticeable engine knock when it's under load. When the engine is running and the transmission is in park or neutral, the engine isn't knocking. As soon as he puts it in gear, drive or reverse, the engine has a knock in the lower end. We're going to check the timing and see if it's off but there just might be something majorly wrong with the engine and it's just a matter of time before it fails.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey Timmy I could really use your help with my '01 4runner. I think I need to replace my ECU. I have gremlins that appeared after 1st trip thru a car wash since I bought it in March. That was April. I can't figure it out since. My windshield seal seams ok. My AC condenser drain hose has been removed and cleaned out, had no clog. But what happens is my door locks and turn signals just start going off while driving now even on dry days no rain no car wash. Do you think it's the ECU? Thanks man you are THE most informative! I'm a subscriber since I got my 4runner!
@@hsing4903 Hard to say what it is but the fact it started happening right after the car wash does lead you to believe water got in where it shouldn't have. I wish I could point you in the right direction but diagnosing electrical issues is not my strong suit. You might want to post this question on the T4R.org forum in the 3rd Gen section and see what people say. There's a guy with a screen name, "The Durk" that's really good with electrical that usually chimes in when an electrical question is posted. I don't think you're issue is the ECU because that's pretty protected under the dash but I guess there is a chance it could be the culprit. Good luck and let me know what you find out.
Tt
@@TimmyTheToolman Check the wires closely, a mouse did some chewing on the wires running to my #1 cyl coil pack. he just chewed enough to where they grounded out together. Lil bastid
I had a spark plug blow out a few months ago...it was held in mostly by the coil pack. I put a helicoil in and it was a successful helicoil. But, the engine was still feeling like it was intermittently misfiring randomly. Checked the plugs, wires and timing. While I was checking the timing, I just happened to touch the plug wires right where the timing cover says 3400. The problem ended up being the wires were pinched the slightest bit. I replaced with oem words and brand new wire clip separator things from Toyota. Problem was instantly fixed and hasn't happened for over 10,000 miles so far. Check every inch of those wires, I bet that's the problem. Something like wind from the fan can just move those wires the slightest bit, and cause a random misfire. Good luck, keep the vids coming buddy. We all appreciate you more than you know.
Ok, thanks for sharing this. I'll take a good look at his wires when he comes over next.
I just pulled my ecu out of my 2000 toyota tundra. I didn't know if I wanted to try it myself but after watching this I gave it a try and it could not have been simpler. Hopefully when I get the replacement it will go back in just as easy. Thanks so much for your help!
You're welcome Steve. Hope the ECU swap fixes whatever issue you're having with your truck.
Same. I'm about to replace mine in my 2006 Tundra.
Did you get a replacement ECU used from a donor vehicle? Did you need to get the replacement ECU programmed?
I just replaced the ECM on my 2005 Tundra. Your video is 100% spot on. Great video and well done. Project worked out perfect
That's great to hear. I'm glad it worked out for you. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!
Good News for you!!
Question... why did you have to replace it? what issue were you having? I'm having a shift solenoid problem. the transmission and the solenoid checked out so now the dealer is telling me that the ECT ECU is next. Any Online sources for for an ECU?
Thanks
About 5 years ago, my 1996 tacoma was having similar issues, not responding well when pressing down on the pedal, I did all of the things this guy mentioned (spark plugs,, ignition coil, O2 sensors, cat converter...)and was taking the fuel rail off and about to test the injectors when someone said to try replacing the computer. I bought one, put it in and the truck drove great for another 5 years! Now, I replaced the alternator and battery, and have been going down the line with the exact same issues again. I had completely forgotten that I did all of that 5 years ago! Took a month for the ECU to come in the mail. I'm about to install it! Hope this does it again! I'll have to update this post if it works!
Hope the replacement ECU fixes your issue. Good luck!
@@TimmyTheToolman it did not....I guess I'll start thinking about this being a fuel pump issue...bummer
@@sydneykv Yeah bummer. Does your rig start and idle or does it immediately die.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for asking. It starts fine, used to idle okay then eventually stall out, now after many previous ECM reset attempts, it starts fine, idles for less time then starts struggling,shakes a lot, and stalls. Does not respond normally when I put the pedal down, it just sputters and backfires and stalls...
@@sydneykv Maybe it's an issue with the throttle position sensor.
Tim, this video is so de ja vu for me. I just spent 8(!) months trying to solve the very same P0305 code! And I found this: Multiple vacuum flaws, only 90 psi in cylinder 4(!) [versus 145 in cylinder 5]. I have arrived at this thought: The programming in the ECU has a BUG! This will never go away, except with a new model, imho. I still get a P0305 on engine start, hot or cold. fugetaboutit! My rig is a 2000 gen 1 Tundra, 3.4l base model. I'm getting a rebuilt 3.4l from Yota! in June, btw.
Another thought: a speeding teenager t-boned my right front in 2010, maybe that weakened the internals of the ecu. But I'm setting my mind on the bug answer. Keep Healthy!!
Good luck figuring it out. Greg's misfire problem ended up being gross play in the crankshaft causing an audible knock. We think the knock sensors were originating the misfire CEL. He ended up selling his Tacoma because he didn't want to spend the money to replace the engine. He didn't use the truck that much so he decided to get rid of it.
Check compression and timing next before throwing more parts at it. Love the videos!
We checked the compression and it was good. Next step is doing a leak down test and checking the timing.
@@TimmyTheToolmanI know this is years old, but I was having the same issues you were describing at the beginning of the video with my 97 4Runner! It ended up being a few vacuum leaks, fuel filter and clogged injectors. Love you videos man, thanks for the info!
Best video I have seen yet
Thanks for the compliment Howard. We appreciate it!
maan Timmy a savage,.. even on his shortest vid ultra thorough
Glad you're a fan of our detailed style. Being thorough means an absolute beginner can be successful using our videos and that's what we're after. We want EVERYONE to be successful using our videos as a tutorial and not just the experienced DIYer or paid mechanic. Thanks for the comment and Happy Wrenching!
Great job explaining how to remove/replace the ECU. I just sent mine for repair, a 1997 Toyota 4 Runner that cranks but wouldnt start. The mechanic said it was an ECU issue. This old timer thanks you! Be well Tim.
You're welcome. Hope they can repair your ECU and get you back rolling down the road again in your rig.
hey im interested to see if the repair to the ECU worked. how did it go when you got it all installed?
Did the ECU solve the crank no start? Having a similar issue now on my T100.
No there was nothing wrong with the ECU. It was something in the gas tank that went bad. The meineke shop that said it was the ECU and they couldn't fix was wrong
Iam happy,to learn how to Replace ECU.good video ....good job Luis....
Glad you like the video Luis. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Is requires any programming of new ECU..
No, it doesn't provided the replacement is from the same year and model.
I kept getting a misfire code on my 2001 Toyota Tundra and found out that one of my spark plugs on cylinder 5 was not gapped appropriately. It was almost completely closed. I removed it and gapped it to the appropriate gap specs and it cleared the code👍🏽
Hey awesome stuff! Thanks for sharing your fix. We hope your comment will help someone in the future. We appreciate you taking the time to come back to our video!
A very good video with very thorough content thanks tim
Thanks Michael. You're very welcome.
Does the ecu also control the transmission shifting points. Reason being my door jam tag identification tag has a tire size or 225/75r16. Does the ecu transmission shifting points go off the vehicle's tire size. Therefore if I got a ecu from a 3rd gen with a tag that read 265/75r16, would the ecu transmission shifting points be at a different setting? Because I wanted to put say a larger tire would it benefit me to than change the ecu over from a 3rd gen with a stock larger size tire "265/75r16 " Thanks Timmy 😄
I would think the ECU controls the shift points. I doubt the shift points is based off tire size. From what I've seen with my 3rd Gens, it's based off speed and rpms. Changing the tire size from the stock size to a larger size and keeping the gearing in the differentials the same will throw off the speedometer a little and thus change the shift points some. One thing that changes the shift points is using the ECT button. It tells the transmission to hold the gear longer before upshifting. The only way to improve the power of your rig after putting larger tires on is to re-gear your differentials. I'm running 4.30 gearing on my 98 with 33" tires. I also have lots of added weight with aftermarket bumpers, winch, full belly of aftermarket skids, and a steel roof rack. I'm going to re-gear to 4.88 soon.
@@TimmyTheToolman, many thanks for the info. This was one has had me puzzled for some time now. Going to change the gearing to 4:30 today. Also many many thanks for all the videos you put together. Don't know how far my rig would be if it wasn't for your channel. Thank you 🙂 👍
@@bvinton2 You're very welcome. Good to hear our videos are helping you out.
Very good information video thanks , have one to do tomorrow !!!!
Good luck with the job!
Great vid, not sure if this is connected to my problem. I have a 98 Tacoma and driving home one day my speedo, tach, radio all stopped working. Truck still running I went straight home, I got home and turned it off and it hasn't started since. Been troubleshooting and noticed my 80 amp ALT fuse was burnt. Replaced it, but still nothing. Everything is still the same. Any ideas? Wondering if my ECU is done??? Thank a bunch
Have you checked the other fuses?
Would a bad timing belt cause the engine to misfire ??
It could and that's why we are going to check the timing next. Greg bought his rig used and doesn't know if the timing belt was ever replaced.
@@TimmyTheToolman I bet thats what it is !! Good luck ! Keep us in the loop ! Cheers !
Yes
Check the harmonic balancer pulley for play.. seen a guy have huge amounts of play in it because of the woodruff key. He's got a video of it on UA-cam too. Good luck! Hope you find it!
Is there any reprogramming that needs to be done? Toyota dealer claimed that a new ECU would need to be programmed to my vehicle. I understand in many vehicles the keys are programmed with radio chips or specific resistors that unlock the immobilizer. Do I need to worry about this in my 1998 4Runner?
As long as the ECU came out of the same year and model, no reprogramming is necessary.
Hope u be able to get to that tundra problem, are checking the compression? , on cylinders?
It was actually a Tacoma, and we did check the compression on all 6 cylinders. We figured out that the issue was crankshaft play. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/v-deo.htmlsi=oPFwtNBaWFdDFoum
Not being able to see the clips clearly, would a long needle nose help in getting those clips unfastened? Thanks, Garry
I wouldn’t use any pliers, you risk breaking the connector. Be patient, use your hand, and wiggle it while pressing down on the connector. This is something you don’t want to break, just be patient.
Mine has the same problem and I am about to replace the ECU too
I’m driving no problem no issues and once is warm if I turn it off and start again I have a misfire , if I don’t then I can drive it perfect no issues
Hope it fixes your misfire problem.
so.. no issue with entry Keys or key security immobilization system?.. no reprogramming?
@ChrispyTofoo For the application we were doing, there were no issues. I can't say if there wouldn't be an issue with newer and more sophisticated systems.
Thanks again Tim, just a 2000 limited.. Always been a huge fan!
So no reprogramming needed? Some forms I read says it’s required?
@@KBM27953 If it's from the same year and model, no reprogramming is necessary.
Also, pairing exact 2004 engine, ECU and transmission from donor truck. Just the wiring that's not lining up. I plan to pull wire connector out of 2004 and and put wires from top of glove box in right positions in it. Just 2004 had an extra small harness on top of large one on glove box. Will I still have all the wiring I need? Thank you. And its 2.7L swap from 2004 into 2.7L 1997.
Good luck with the rest of the job.
Hey, Timmy! Thank you for your video.
I have a broken braket. It is specifically the bracket that holds one of the 4 screws of the pilot seat, I am surprised how thin that metal is.
So my question is, do you think I should unplug the ECU before welding that bracket?
I am afraid of damaging sensors or electronics of the truck with the welding. It is also hard to find a place to place the earth clamp as close as possible to the spot.
If you disconnect the battery, nothing will happen to the ECU.
Excellent video.
Thanks Jim. We're glad you like it.
Good vid. Not too applicable with my car (Mitsubishi 380/Galant) but good to watch nonetheless. An ECU repairer said they're able to copy the data from my current ECU to the replacement one, and then I'll swap them out. I have an aircon issue which has been diagnosed by another ECU repairer to be an issue with the output circuit in the ECU.
Hope the ECU swap fixes your issue.
@@TimmyTheToolman I am very pleased to say it did fix my aircon issue. And everything else about the car is running just as before.
@@hrthrhs That's great to hear.
Awesome 👏 video!
Thanks!
I’m having the same problem p0420 p0443 and 2 more codes… should I bother with the ecm?
@@savagediy8077 Have you tried replacing our O2 sensors?
Damn what could be the problem I agree a leak down test is a great idea
good explanation friend I am trying to repair my truck 4runner 2002 cylinder # 6 says the code change, several parts and I can not fix, change spark plugs cables coils oxygen sensor 1 and 2 maf sensor Fuel pump, fuel filter catalyst 1,2 and the exhaust now I want to change the engine computer ,,, my question is the computer that you are changing that is the part that I need or not
The ECU we got was for a Tacoma. Yours is most likely a different part number. Have you done a compression check on the #6 cylinder?
If you change the ECU, do you need to program the keyless FOB?
@@jimihindrix7977 I'm not sure. I don't remember Greg having to do that with his Tacoma.
Gracias por la instrucción
De nada.
How about the fuel filter? If that has never been changed it could seriously limit fuel flow. Is the cylinder that is misfiring one of the last ones in line to get fuel?
Good suggestion. Coil too?
I know you are probably running down the list on DI-57 in the FSM, but I don't recall you checking the vacuum lines. Sucks his rig is throwing the code, but at least he's in good hands troubleshooting the problem.
That's a good point and thanks for reminding about this. We did have his engine fairly torn apart and didn't notice any problems with the vacuum lines but the next time I get Greg over my place I'm going to take a good look at them.
Great video Timmy as always brother
Thanks Brother
Hey Timmy, I have a 96 camry 3.0, and has a code 92 ecu malfuction on abs. Found one at a junk yard , same part number, hope it clears the ABS continuous light.
Fingers crossed it fixes your issue.
Is the location the same for the 2nd gen 4runner?
No, it's not. It's located in the passenger side kick panel. Check out this video at play time 25 minutes and 20 seconds ua-cam.com/video/2V30K7ePLMM/v-deo.html and you'll see how to access the ECU.
Hi Tim, you mentioned misfire cylinder #1 was it an injector code or ignition code? I had misfire
(slightly rough idle) but a P0440 code, 98 Taco V6. My problem was a cracked vacuum hose top of the intake plenum. I used a can of Starting Fluid and sprayed around my hose connection points and found several hoses that needed replacing. If no bad vacuum hoses then a compression, leak down test would be next. Good luck and look forward to a resolution.
The code Greg is getting is a P0301, misfire of the #1 cylinder. We had the top of his engine torn apart for the fuel injectors replacement and didn't notice any glaring problems with the vacuum hoses. But, I'm going to take a good look at them again when he comes over next.
@@TimmyTheToolman was this problem ever solved?
@@ShaunCapoferri Yes, it was. It ended up being gross play in the crankshaft causing the misfire. His engine had an engine knock that I finally figured out where it was coming from. The knock sensors must have been initiating the misfire code to the ECU. Check out the video. ua-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman hmm… he had a misfire though caused by the ecu?
Very similar problem on my 97 started misfiring out of nowhere and all test are good.
@@ShaunCapoferri The ECU didn't cause the misfire. The knock sensors generated it and then sent the message to the ECU. The real cause was the play in the crankshaft causing the engine knock.
So once your computer is in if it turns over but doesn’t start don’t your have to connect a jumper and reset the ECU?
No, you don't. As long as the ECU is correct for your year, make and model, you install it and your rig should start.
Mine didn’t. I had to look up how to jump
The OBD 2 ports on 4 and 13. I matched the make model year and all that and it wouldn’t start until I synced the new computer to the car. You guy’s video missed that instruction. Unless there is a way to wipe the new ECU that I don’t know about
@@TimmyTheToolman the how to install part of your video was great! It just left out the how to reset the computer section which is needed.
TJack Survival I wonder why we didn’t have to reset the one we had then. Anyway, I guess we were lucky or maybe you were unlucky. Our ECU was the exact part number as the original. Was that the case with your swap?
@@TimmyTheToolman Interesting, was your vehicle also equipped with the transponder key ignition system?
Thank you. I will need your help
You're welcome.
Great video. I think I would started with a compression test and leakdown test first before throwing parts all it.
We eventually did a leak down test of the #1 cylinder. It was fine. The problem ended up being gross play in the crank shaft which caused an audible engine knock that the knock sensors were picking up and generating the misfire. We suspected the thrust washers gave way and we were right. Greg decided to sell the truck and the guy who bought it dropped the oil pan and found pieces of the thrust washers on the bottom of the pan.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks so much for rescribing this. I think I have exactly the same problem with the same engine on the no 2 cylinder. It has been driving me mad. I have been on the verge of swapping out the ECU. Where the engine rests for a few hours, it starts and drives perfectly. After about an hour, the no 2 cylinder misfires and then the engine must cool down again before it works. Enough to drive anyone insane.
@@kimonpaxinos3747 Intermittent problems like this can be a pain in the ass to figure out. Hope you find the culprit.
What was the final diagnosis of his misfire? I am having the same problem with my 2002 Tundra. We are putting in a new computer this week, but if that doesn’t work, we have already checked most other things.
Gross crank play. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/v-deo.html
Hi, Tim. I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma that has had misfire problems for years. I finally had a garage that diagnosed the ECM-O2 sensor problem. They said they found "1 sensor 2 inop. There is a TSB that states when down stream O2 sensor is not reading an updated ECM will need to be installed along with a new bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor." I want to replace the ECM myself because it'll be a lot less expensive than the $1500 the garage wants to do it for me. Will the O2 sensor have to be replaced at the same time or can it be done afterwards if needed?
I'm not sure about your question, It seems the worst that could happen is you'll throw a CEL code if the upstream O2 sensor isn't working well with the new ECU.
Hi Tim, great video! Does the ECU on the 2002 have an "in-mobilizer" that requires the ECU to be reprogramed after replacing? The reason I'm asking is my 2002 T4R 3.4L Limited is flooding the moment you try to start it & my mechanic here in Colorado replaced the crank shaft sensor, the fuel injectors, the ECU, tested the O2 sensors & MAF and still the same problem. It will run for about 1 second then it dies. He says the moment you put the key in he ignition and turn it on "accessories" position without starting the engine, it is calling for and sending fuel... Any thoughts please? Thank you in advance
@jerrykraus3621 I'm not sure it needs to be reprogrammed. Sounds like your mechanic threw a bunch of parts at the problem, not knowing what the root cause is. It could be an issue with your throttle body.
@@TimmyTheToolman I agree, the mechanic already replaced the Throttle Position Sensor & Throttle Body. Have you ever had to re-program the ECU? ps; I sent you some beer money via paypal
@@jerrykraus3621 I have never reprogrammed an ECU so I couldn't be of any guidance for you. Thanks for the beers!
@@TimmyTheToolman You are the best! I can't thank you enough for all the help you've been over the years Tim. If you lived closer I wouldn't let anyone touch my T4R other than you Sir!
@@jerrykraus3621 Thanks!
Hello Tim, let’s assume the swapping ecu fixed the problem. Do we have to get the vin rewritten or ecu reprogrammed?
I honestly don't even know if the VIN is stored in the ECU but that wouldn't change anything with the performance of the vehicle. As long as the ECU came from the same year, make and model, the ECU does not require reprogramming.
Which is the harness to the OBD plug under the drivers side
Don't know what part of the harnesses that connect to the ECU communicate with the OBD II port. I'd have to look it up on a wiring diagram.
Tim
I have a 96 Tacoma. Is the ECU replacement the same process as your 2004 Tacoma ECU replacement video?
Yes, it would be the same since they are both 1st Gen Tacomas.
Love your videos! I'm hoping you could school us on using a nice scan tool to diag some of these problems.
The only scan tool I tried out was using Techstream on an old windows laptop. I used it in regards to the misfire problem I was trying to figure out for Greg's Tacoma in this video. It didn't really help me out. I wish I was more experienced in using scan tools to diagnose problems like this but I'm not. I do have a buddy Mark that uses a Snap On scan tool and he says it works really well but it's also really expensive. I do monitor my engine with the Torque Pro app getting information from the OBD II port, but it's mainly so I can closely monitor coolant temp, trans temp, charging volts, and to look up any CELs that pop up.
I’m so happy you did this! I’m doing a 4wd swap! And my name is Greg!
Glad the timing worked out for your Ron. Good luck with the job. Let us know how it goes for you.
Classic greg
Good day Sir, if you don’t mind if you can guide me where to find the ECU for my 2006 GX470, thank you Sir
Well, the obvious choice is at your local Lexus or Toyota dealer. If you want to save money, you can search for a wrecked 2006 GX470 at a PicknPull that's the same model. I don't know if there were different trim models like they have for 4runners like SR5 and Limited. With those differences, the ECU will be different as well because the electronica are a bit different like the difference between a J-shifter for the transfer case on the SR5 models and a push button actuator for the Limited models. So, you can go on the PicknPull website and do a search for your year and model and see what you come up with. If you find one or more, you go there, pay your $2 entry fee and hope one of the rigs that's there still have the ECU in it. I don't know where the ECU is on the GX470 but my guess is it's behind the glove box like it is on a lot of other Toyota and Lexus models. Here's a link to a video of us swapping out a ECU on a 1st Gen Tacoma. ua-cam.com/video/5-t69mMpazg/v-deo.html Another option is you do a search online and maybe someone is selling one on Ebay or wherever.
I'm about to do the same repair because of the same misfire problem, but it looks like this didn't solve it- do you know what will or has there been any success with solving Greg's misfire problem?
Greg's problem was gross play in the crankshaft. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/v-deo.html
Hi Tim, Thanks for the videos, they've been a great resource. I'm working on an 01 4runner SR5, and swapped out the ECM to try to resolve an ABS problem. The ECM is from FlagShip One and comes programmed with my VIN. After replacing the ECM the truck doesn't start. I thought it was an immobilizer problem, but I can't seem to find good info on this particular issue for this generation. Have you run into this before?
Does the engine start with the original ECU? I haven't had to diagnose an issue with the immobilizer.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes, it did start with the original ECU but had VSC/ABS/Speedometer issues
@@goose610 Did you contact FlagShip One and ask them for guidance? I would think they would have some insight on your issue. Maybe your ECU wasn't programmed correctly by them.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yea I did, and they ended up recommending I send it back for testing. Thanks!
@@goose610 Hope when they get it back to you, your problem is solved.
Currently having this issue, replaced everything other than the engine itself and then happened to wiggle my wiring and the misfire would go away, the ignition coil wire plug on the harness for cyl 3 was sensitive enough to cause the truck to stall if touched, I replaced it, soldered in a new end, and it fixed the sensitivity but there is still somewhere in the harness along the firewall where if I pull it/wiggle just right it will run right so I’m currently trying to track this/debate if the whole harness is fried
Are there any signs of rodent activity in your engine compartment. They are known to chew through wiring.
Thank you for the response! No I have no signs of rodents but I’m currently working on it, and have the harness exposed but still connected, I’ve found the TPS black/yellow wire has 750ohms resistance but fluctuates easily when I wiggle the harness, yes the plug is secure so no false readings, the sensitivity seems to travel the length of the wire going into the firewall so I may be removing the harness inside to replace this single wire as no other wires are showing a varying resistance when moved
@@AutorRepairReviewsMaybe you would be better off to give it a good 10amp draw, just to clear out any rouge dissident electrons hiding out on crimp connection wire ends.
Hi Timmy. I would appreciate your help. My 4 runner turned off and I have already checked all the sensors and fuses. the gasoline pump the gasoline filter. but I'll be there but the engine won't start. It has started a few times but I have to give it gas to keep it on and if I don't it turns off and the engine won't start again. I have also checked the fuel regulator and the throttle bar. I appreciate your response as soon as possible
Check the IAC valve. That gives the engine air while idling. ua-cam.com/video/agIRNNA-6cs/v-deo.htmlsi=QxgfITQz-BC-F8RX
Hi Tim, thanks for your great videos, I have a similar problem with my 97 4runner, it suddenly shuts off at low revs or sometimes it just won't start and I have to let it sit for a few minutes before turning it back on, we've already checked almost everything and We do not see what the solution could be, the code P1300 is always read. Do you have any idea what could be the problem? I appreciate your comments
Hey Wilson, the code is telling you the problem. The P1300 is an igniter issue. The igniter bolts on top of the passenger side fender in the engine compartment near the cruise control unit. It's a flat looking box that's around 3" x 3" with a very large electrical connector. I'm guessing the igniter has an intermittent issue. Replace it and I bet your problems go away.
I have a question. Putting a 2004 2.7L into a 1997 Tacoma. With a swap of ECU, still have the wire port on top of glove box that doesn't have same connection. Do I need to repin to the 2004 setup. Have a full donor vehicle.
Are you putting in a 3RZ-FE engine into a Tacoma that originally came with a 5VZ-FE 3.4L engine?
Timmy, did you finally figured out why the misfire? did you fix it?
Yes, we figured it out. It was gross crankshaft play. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/v-deo.html
Tanks for the vídeo 👍
You're welcome Carlos
Is there anything you have to do with programming or syncing your key/ignition to the ECU unit? Or, is it simply plug and play?
It should be plug and play if you got the exact same ECU for your year and model.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi, this is a very good question from lizperr because I thought the vehicle’s ECU and transponder key were somewhat programmed to each other.
@@jonarriola794 The vehicle we were working on is older and doesn't have a transponder key. That's probably the reason our swap was plug and play.
Do you have to get the ECU flashed to the current vin number and mileage?
As long as the ECU came out of the same year and model rig, you should not have to flash it. As for the mileage on the odometer, I'm unsure about that.
Timmy The Toolman i bought an replacement ECU, same part number as my old one. All it would do is turn over. Im wondering if my chipped key is tripping the security
Hello! Can you recommend a reputable company that sells new or refurbished ecm's for 98 4runner 3.4?
Sorry, I don't have any experience with any companies that refurbish ECUs.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the quick reply. Helpful videos.
@@emc4685 You're welcome.
Hey bud I’m having some of the simmer problems that you are describing in this video. Is there anyways I can ask you some question?
Ask away.
Do you know offhand if the bcm is located in the same place for a 2005 V8 4Runner?
Check this out
m.ua-cam.com/video/wveHjpzH-es/v-deo.html
Will this direction work for a 96 Oldsmobile cutlass ciera? I have been looking for an exact video for my model but can't find it
No clue. We work on Toyota/Lexus vehicles.
You check compression or do a leak down test? Mechanical issues like a sticking or bent valve, low compression, etc can cause a misfire as well.
We checked the compression of all cylinders and they checked out good. I didn't bother with the leak down test because of the initial compression test. But, we are going to perform a leak down test soon and check the timing.
@@TimmyTheToolman start looking electrical check the injector triggers with a noid light. also if you can have a shop with an oscilloscope check the ignition side for correct triggering of the coils and ignition patterns. A head gasket could also be the cause the chemical testers are pretty cheap to test. I have seen electrical issues plague diagnostics. I wouldn't throw anymore parts at it but run through the diagnostic flow charts for those codes and make sure the wiring is good as well your FSM should have those diag. flow charts. Mr Squirrel and Mouse like cause issues that may not be seen even just over night. I hate the shotgun method and guessing and stuff that goes on in the forums as well as in the comments below. I like seeing testing being done to rule out issues before parts being thrown at it. That's just the mechanic/technician in me.
@@scooter041031 I hear you. I'm trying to be methodical and diagnose but sometimes replacing things that are probably ready to be replaced isn't such a bad thing. Greg replaced his spark plugs and wires trying to fix this problem but guys do this as preventative maintenance. We replaced the upstream Air/Fuel sensor and downstream O2 sensor, but again, guys replace these thinking their mpg will improve due to a lazy O2 sensor. Fuel injectors can show they are electrically fine, but who knows if they are partially clogged which could be causing the misfire? So, we decided to replace the fuel injectors with some refurbished ones. After the fuel injectors were replaced, Greg said his engine had more power and a better throttle response so I didn't consider that a waste of time or money. So far, the one thing we did that was truly throwing parts at it was this ECU replacement. I was just going for the long shot since somebody on T4R.org said he had a long time misfire problem and a replacement ECU fixed it. We've eliminated a lot of things and we're still searching. Next step is a leak down test and checking the timing.
@@scooter041031 I forgot to mention that Greg took his rig to a Toyota Dealership a long time ago and it didn't sound like they put much effort into figuring it out for him. I would have figured since they have diagnostic tools like an oscilloscope they would be better equipped to find the culprit for the misfire. I know being able to diagnose a problem like this is the difference between a "Technician" and a "Parts Replacer". Hopefully we'll get some answers from the leak down test and the timing check.
@@TimmyTheToolman that's disheartening.
Got a 1993 Toyota pickup truck with the 3L V6 in it mine's doing about the same thing! After a few miles number one misfire comes up code. About 10 to 20 miles this time I've been tinkering with it and it didn't come on until 50 miles and it came up again. Seems to be getting very bad gas mileage. Those the gas tank and as somebody change the fuel pump but did not put the rubber plug in for the wires on top of the gas tank and come to figure out they was driving it for about 10 years like that! I could not believe what I was seeing in the fuel filter the fuel filter was completely stopped up change it but still did not fix my problem? If I figure it out I'll give you a shout out! I'm about done the same thing you and you guys are done. Keep the good job up! I want to do a new map sensor? Maybe?
Hey Phillip, good luck figuring out your misfire issue. For sure let me know what you figure out. Happy Wrenching!
Hey Tim, just keep eliminating the possibilities. If you have access to TIS techstream look at the misfire counters while driving around to verify that only #1 is misfiring and the exact conditions that are causing a misfire count increase. Other cylyinders may be misfiring but not enough to throw a code for that cylinder. Then move to the Leakdown test to see if/where it's leaking, then check the timing belt and the timing pulleys. I have seen it before on a 5vz that the crank timing pulley woodruff key slot wallors out allowing it to rotate slightly relative to the crank causing the engine to have a misfire under load because of a small timing error. If those tests and checks don't bring the issue to light then it's a difficult to find electrical issue in the harness or the grounds. May the Toyota gods be with you...
Thanks Jacob. I do have Techstream and was looking at it while we were driving. I was watching the misfire counts but didn't come across and Ah-Hah moments that let me know where the problem lies. Maybe I just don't know what to look for. The driving conditions were just mellow city and freeway driving.
I have a leak down tester and a timing light so we'll see what those show us.
Will 2011 Lexus GX460 new ECU replacement be plug n play if you jump OBD 13 and 4 for 30 mins to set up the existing smart keys?
Don't know Kevin. I don't have experience with that.
I think it is equal to a 4runner 2005 6 cyl, ..
Because my toyota i turn on the shiwcht and I have lights on the dash but it doesn't turn on, I turn on the starter and if it works .. but not with the key, I already checked the fuses and they are all fine .. I don't even know where to check .. and it was so by chance, it turned on very well when I went home and stopped in a store and did not want to turn on, but it had rained a lot .. greetings from Chicago
It could be a wiring issue and not the ECU. Sounds like an issue that's going to be hard to pinpoint.
Are these ECU’s completely sealed? I have a 2001 Tundra and when it’s left out overnight during a hard rain, it roughs extremely rough and a hard time accelerating. Feels and sounds like multiple cylinders misfiring. The truck does have some rust and I was thinking maybe water was dripping into the ECU? Or maybe on the wires going into the unit? When the truck dries out, it runs fine. Also, if I drive it for a while in that condition it seems to clear up as well. Any ideas?
The ECU is basically a metal case. Is it waterproof, probably not, but it is waterproof resistant. If water is getting to the ECU you would see water dripping from under the dashboard on the passenger side. The water would make its way to lowest point which is the floor on the passenger side. If your rig only does this after a hard rain, it seems logical the water is getting somewhere to affect something but I'm not so sure it's the ECU. Have you examined under the hood to see if water is pooling in areas. Maybe it's one of your electrical grounds.
Hey Tim just want ur input on this: well my Father does lol: The Mobil 1 oil filter that he bought says it's good for up to a year or 20,000 miles. Do u recommend leaving an oil filter on a vehicle that long? Thanks!
No, I don't but I use OEM Toyota filters. I just switched to using full synthetic oil so I'm going to change my oil and filter every 5k miles. The longest interval I've seen people go with synthetic oil is 10k. So in your dad's case, would he replace the oil say every 10k and then replace the filter every 20k? Or, would he try to push both the oil and filter to the 20k interval? I would not let the oil go for 20k miles. If he replaces the oil more frequently than filter, than he'll have to replace the oil that fills the filter every time he renews the filter. The easiest way to do an oil change is to replace both at the same time.
So, my recommendation is to start with a 5k oil change and send a sample of your oil to Blackstone Labs for an oil analysis. If they say the oil looks really good with lots of lubricating properties left, increase the interval to 7.5k and do another oil analysis. If it still looks good, bump it up to 10k. Like I said, I don't think it's worth pushing it past 10k. Hope this helps.
@@TimmyTheToolman: he would replace the oil every 5k until he got to the 20k and then replace the oil filter at that point...would you ok that?
@@israelrodriguez6986 Well, if he wants to believe Mobil that it's good for 20k miles, than yeah, he can do that. I personally wouldn't push the interval that high no matter what a company tells me. But, that's just me. Oil filters aren't that expensive or that hard to change for me to risk that long of an interval. If the filter gets dirty enough that flow is inhibited to your engine, this convenience of only changing the filter every 20k just cost you an engine. It's not worth it to me. I guess you could search online in Toyota forums for people who are saying this kind of interval is fine with a Mobil 1 oil filters. I'm just not going to acknowledge for you that it's a good idea because I would never do this with my vehicles.
Great videos Timmy. You help me alot but the each old question is can you reprogram an ECU for a 1996 Toyota 4Runner and how?
I know ECUs can be reprogrammed. How it's done, I don't know.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for your reply but I guess my question is does an ECU on a 1996 Toyota 4runnwe require reprogramming like the new models so? I hear it doesn't but is that true or accurate.
@@dominicene3647 No, you don't have to reprogram it. I thought you were asking about reprogramming an ECU to work for a different year and model.
@@TimmyTheToolman know of any reputable places that repairs ECU for the 1996 Toyota $ Runner? I see alot of them on online but I wonder how they repair them. I always keep a spare ECU and my original is not working properly.
@@dominicene3647 I don't know of any.
i have seen other videos indicating the new ecu has to be programmed (2005 4runner) and ignition was in the on position for several minutes. other vids ive seen indicate new ignition keys for a new ecu. be a first replacing such for me.
If the ECU is from the exact year and model, there shouldn't be a need to reprogram it. I have heard that the key will have to be reprogrammed though.
@@TimmyTheToolman means best bet will be going to the toyota parts counter, vs a wrecker and dealing with that accuracy , thank you for the vid very nice
@@chevyvega6622 You're welcome. Good luck!
the new ecu does not require any programming, as much as the key,?
If you got an ECU from the same year and model, no programming is necessary.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you
What ended up being the misfire problem cause? Going through the same thing myself.
It ended up being gross crankshaft play. His engine did have an audible knock and we finally figured out what it was. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for your reply!!!👍😁👍. I love that despite some like you have so many subscribers you still manage to reply to so many. When i see stuff like that its instant subscription. ✌️👍👍
@@pitchforkpeasant6219 You're very welcome. We do our best to answer people's questions and acknowledge their comments. Thanks for recognizing us for that. Happy Wrenching!
Hey there, do you know if a 1997 ECU will transfer into my '98 4runner? Doing a manual transmission swap (have all '98 parts from a donor vehicle, but don't have an ecu)... found a '97 manual transmission 3.4L 4x4 ecu, but not sure if it will transfer ok? all the prongs are same at '98. any info would be great, no worries if not sure! Thanks for your videos, they have been helpful and certainly thorough.
I'm not sure but I think there's a good chance it will work because I don't remember there being any changes between the 98 and 97 models. You'd just have to do more research to see if there was something electrically different in the components between the two years that would cause a problem with the component talking with the ECU. That's about the best advice I can give you. You could also see if the part number for the ECU from Toyota is the same for both years.
@@TimmyTheToolman sweet thank you very much for the info and quick reply!!
@@glorifychrist7 You're welcome.
Hi Tim, great video! In the process of trying to fix my 01 Tacoma 3.4L prerunner and thinking of replacing ECU as a last resort. Starts great but shuts off immediately like the key was switched off. Once in a blue moon it will stay running and runs great when it does. New OEM fuel pump, fuel filters (in tank and line), spark plugs, new battery and terminals. Coil packs have normal resistance (~1 ohm) All fuses are good (checked with voltmeter). New OEM MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve. No changes. I cannot figure this out and it’s driving me crazy! It doesn’t bog out when it dies like it’s being starved for air or fuel. It’s like the key is turned off. Any thoughts on what could be causing it to shut off right after starting?
Have you tested the igniter? It could be a grounding issue. Have you checked your battery connections, ground to the body, and ground to the engine?
What was the fix, I’m having the same issue with my 3rd gen 4Runner. Runs for a couple seconds and instantly just turns off.
We are leaning here Timmy , thanks for the videos brother . .. 👍🤟👌
Our pleasure Brother.
Timing belt or head gasket
Engine is not eating coolant so I doubt it's a head gasket issue. But we are going to check the timing and do a leak down test of the cylinder even though the compression test was good.
Im working on my 2002 4runner and i bought an exact replacement ecu but it just cranks. Runs fine with the OG ecu but i keep getting a pedal postion error after replacing the entire throttle body. The manual says to check the 2 voltages from that sensor and the supply voltage are good, to replace the ecu. I have tis and it says immobilizer B2796. Not sure whats going on. Any idea? It doesnt have a chip key.
Not sure Steven. Your problem is above my pay grade. I'm not sure what could be the cause other than the ECU you got has issues.
Replace ECU is really eazy just plug and unplug harness but all you need is a good scanner that can handle ECU,PCM match to married inmobilizer to ECU other wise vehicle wont start. I did it in my Honda Accord 08 I jut had to fallow the scaner instruction like swich key on swich key off but probably some brands and model don't required reprogramming. .
Most people don't own a scanner with this capability due to the price tag.
Do you know if the cluster is programmed to ecu on a 2001 Celica 1.8 vvti?
Do the ECUs have to have the same number?
I'm not sure. The reason why ours matched is because I picked up the replacement ECU from the exact same year and model truck as Greg's. Is the ECU you're thinking of installing from the same year and same model as yours?
@@TimmyTheToolman I haven't located one as of yet but I was unsure if they had a year range where they are compatible. I have a 2002 4runner limited 2wd.
@@ce0687 Well, I really think your best bet is to find the same year and model (2wd or 4wd, Manual Trans or Automatic Trans) and then you won't have any issues.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok thanks! Know of any sites I can get one?
@@ce0687 I found the one I bought on Tacoma World. A guy was parting out a truck. I'd search the Toyota forums in the classified sections, search Craigslist and search Ebay. You could also search your local wrecking yards like a PicknPull.
I have an 02 tundra that I can’t get ready for smog. O2 sensor and Evacuation keep saying not ready. Any suggestions? I’ve done multiple drive cycles and driven this truck for a few months and still nothing.
I'm not sure. I have never gone through a problem like this. I have heard that the drive cycles are fairly specific on what you need to do in order for it to clear and be ready to smog but I've never performed one of these drive cycles for one of my vehicles.
@@TimmyTheToolman okay I guess I’ll keep driving it. Thanks for replying back and the videos you make for all of us to learn from.
@@Blkdelillah Are you performing the drive cycles as suggested or are you just driving it normally? I remember reading about what a drive cycle entailed and it was very specific on how you need to drive the vehicle to get the code to clear.
Would it worke without reprogramming even if i replace ECU with used one from junkyard?
Yes it would provided you pulled an ECU out of the same year, make and model vehicle you need it for.
@@TimmyTheToolman are you sure about that? I though dealer had to reprogram. Never seen a ECU just swap out. 97 manual 5vzfe
@@htownboy2k The one I swapped into the Greg's rig came from the exact year and model and had the same part number on it. His rig ran without issue with the donor ECU and we did not reprogram it. So, I'm sure as long as you're swapping in an ECU from the same year and model and it has the same part number stamped on it.
@@TimmyTheToolman I've swapped one from the exact year make model same part number.. just cranks and cranks
@@htownboy2k Hmmm. Don't know what to say. It worked for us. This was my only experience doing something like this. Maybe you got a bad ECU.
Had the same issue before with my Honda. Did a leak down and air was getting pass the exhaust valves as air can be heard from tail pipe. Turns out my valve seats were shot which didn't create a solid seal between the valves and valve seats. As my auto shop teacher always said "diagnosis before throwing parts a car"
We performed a compression test of the cylinder and it tested good. But, we're going to do a leak down test anyway to rule it out.
Goodluck! A leak down is always better. Worse case, the head will have to come off and take a trip to a machine shop. Anyways great vids and awesome channel. I've been watching since I was gifted a 3rd gen 4runner and learned a lot. Keep up the work!
Hey bro this is not a ecu question but there’s a clicking noise coming from the fan area under the same area but to the left do you know what I’m talking about
Does the noise occur only when the fan is on or is it all the time? In that area is the AC evaporator. When it's making the noise, is the AC on?
I know this vid is old but I had the same issue on my Tacoma. I too replaced coil packs since mine has 130k miles , I have newish denso iridium plugs and wires. But I still had the miss on cylinder 1 and 4. What I found is that one cold night a mouse decided to crawl up in my engine compartment to stay warm and he chewed on some wires. If I ever catch that little focker Im gonna pulverize him.
Yep, rodents getting into engine compartments is pretty common and they can do a ton of damage.
So i can buy a used UCU for my lexus RX 330 a 2004 model on Ebay and swap it that easy ?
@tedslife7086 If it's the same model and year, for the most part, yes. There could be an issue with the mileage reported by the odometer because it could be a value stored by the ECU and maybe other issues I'm not thinking about. What I'm trying to say is I've never tried it on your model, so I can't give you any guarantees.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks
@@tedslife7086No problem
Not sure if you've had experience with this but my idle air control valve is continuously clicking and now my 4runner cranks but won't start. I changed the valve with a new one but it's clicking still and won't start. Do you think it would have anything to do with the ecu?
Hard to say but it certainly could be a problem with the ECU. Have you examined the wiring harness that the IAC plug comes off of? Maybe there's a short somewhere. Sometimes rodents can get into your engine compartment and chew up the wiring.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah I've checked the harness but I haven't exactly checked for a short in the wires
Hi Tim, I'm in a pickle and hoping to hear your suggestions.
My 5vzfe is using what looks like a 4x4 A/T ECU with 4 blocky plugs (similar looking to a 1995 Tacoma's ECU). And no the label is wiped off so I don't have the part number.
Now, I've tried to wire it to the OBD2 port using E5-18 SDL as the signal wire on Pin2, ground on Pin 4,5 and Battery on Pin16 but I cannot get it to work. I've alternatively connected E5-18 SDL to Pin 7 of the OBD2 port and that doesn't work either. I'm starting to think it's because my JDM ECU does not support OBD2.
Do you know any other wiring schemes I could try? I am also open to other advice as to what I should do moving forward.
Thanks for your help.
That's interesting that you say you have a 4-plug ECU. All the ones I've seen for the 5VZ-FE motor for 4runners and Tacomas have been 5 plug. Maybe that's your issue right there. But, maybe that's how the Japanese JDM issues are wired.
You've hit a topic I'm not well-versed on and that's auto electrical. I do have a 2000 wiring diagram in my possession that I could take a look at and see what I see. Do you actually have a 98 wiring diagram in your possession? If not, you can pay $20 for a two-day subscription to Toyota Tech info and access the info you seek. The only caveat is you need a Windows based computer to use their site. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&challenge_url=techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/login/techinfo&password=secure_string&request_id=-6604130355241257782&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F
At the very very bottom of the page I linked, there's a link you can click on to show the system requirements. What I did is bought a refurbished laptop from an Ebay seller so I could use the Tech Info website. This the computer I bought from a seller with a good reputation:
www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E6420-Laptop-Windows-7-8GB-RAM-250GB-256GB-SSD/292385184197?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks I think you've just pointed me in the right direction 😄😄.
After reading your response I realized something. I assumed that my 4 plug ECU was comparable to the early Tacoma's and therefore I was only looking at the 95 Tacoma wiring pinout. But just noticed that some late years also had the 4 plug ECU with a different pinout. So maybe my ECU is comparable to these and I was connecting to the wrong pins. So all hope isn't lost and my ECU may supports OBD2 🤞🏻🤞🏻😊. And I have the ECU pinout in PDF for almost all years of 5vzfe Tacoma and 4runners and also have the complete wiring diagram for some but thanks for sharing the resource.
I'm surprised you only see the 5 plug ECU though. I have found a number of different US based UA-camrs using the 4 block ECU on their trucks🤔
@@spago555 Well, I've only seen two ECUs so far, one from a 1st Gen Tacoma and one from a 3rd Gen 4runner and they were both 5 plug ECUs so I just assumed they were all 5 plug.
@@TimmyTheToolman Ahh okayy. I'm going to attempt to wire the OBD2 again tonight. In case I fail I'll just have to source a USDM ECU then 🤔
Thanks for your help Tim.
@@spago555 I was wrong. The 97 4runner I just worked on only had 4 plugs for the ECU.
is there programming involved?
No, there isn't. The key is to get an ECU from the same year and model as your rig. If you do that, it's plug and play.
Timmy The Toolman TY Sir!
@@arturoalvarado4030 You're welcome.
Would you happen to know if a 2005 Corolla ECU requires programming as well or is it plug n play? TY
Arturo Alvarado typically it doesn’t require programMing. Not sure about your specific vehicle but it’s close enough in year to make me assume it won’t need programMing.
For the most part the check engine light on my 4Runner had been on. Less than a week ago I had a low mileage engine replacement and STILL the check engine light is on! Please Timmy The Toolman can you help me? In the past having a 250,000 mile engine brought some concern about the light. Now with this differnet engine Im really concerned! Could it be the ECU? Is there a common reason fir the 5vz fe?
Andy Z have you run the CEL code yet?...
@@TimmyTheToolman eh.. no I guess Im getting ahead of myself. I'll get back with ya.
wheres the ECM located on a 2007 Lexus GX470
I'm guessing the same location as the 1st Gen Tacoma. I haven't swapped one out on a GX470.
My 1998 had a busted plug at the coil an it arched on my harness wires. I think it fried my ecu. I lost all spark completely after I saw the arching an tried to arrange things so it couldn’t anymore. Replacement ecu will be here tomorrow an I’ll see if it fixes my spark issue. I replaced coils and plugs and wires already to no avail.
I wonder if it could have fried your igniter. It's bolted to the driver side fender in the engine compartment. I'm not sure what happened would fry your ECU.
Hey, have I tried to read ECU in TIS (Techstream) yet? Who's Vin shows up? Did the donars truck Vin stay with ECU?
We didn't think about the VIN. We were just interested in fixing the misfire problem. You would have to reprogram the ECU and I don't know if that's worth it. As long as you get an ECU from the same year and model rig, the ECU will work and keep your vehicle on the road.
@@TimmyTheToolman Do 2000 Corolla ECU's necessarily need to be reprogrammed? That is to say, if I procure an ECU with a matching model number from a donor vehicle that is of the same year, is it likely to work without needing to be reprogrammed? The key is literally just a metal key with no immobilizer, if that helps.
@@MrRusell86 My guess is no reprogramming would be necessary if the ECU is from the same year and model.
@@TimmyTheToolman Okay. Cool. That is what I thought. I get a lot of conflicting answers from sellers on eBay. Some say reprogramming will be needed while others say the replacement should work just fine without.
This is to try and solve an endless P0171 issue as the LTFT comes in at 39%. I have replaced the fuel cap, PCV valve, 02 sensor, MAF sensor, and air intake gasket.
A mechanic believes it is the ECU as the car runs fine otherwise. I think I'll change the fuel injectors while I'm at it, too. The car is due to get smogged in April so time is something of the essence.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have put in one of the ECUs and it works fairly well without needing to be programmed. LTFT came in lower but still around 28 - 31% so it seems the ECU was not the culprit. With that said, it has been a wild ride with the injectors leaking due to the injector o-rings tearing or getting chewed up. Thankfully, I have a lot of spares and I have gotten better at inserting and lubricating them. I finally managed to get the injectors to stop leaking but then I was hit with numerous low-300 misfire codes plus P0172 (running too rich).
I read up on the misfires and the lower seals needed to be lubricated so I used vasiline. No more 300 codes but I still have P0172. LTFT goes down to -26%, which is quite ironic considering I've been dealing with P0171 for the longest time. The car idles softly like it may sputter out when I drive slowly or stop
I assume this rich condition is from all of the excess fuel that went into the cylinders/engine from dealing with the recurring leaks and lifting the rail up and back so much and gas going into the port holes. It's not like it was a water hose or anything but still a decent amount over time as I couldn't run the engine with the injectors leaking.
Will this rich fuel condition work itself out with the engine drying on its own the more I drive or what can I do?
I have a 95 can I use a computer from a 97? Found one at the junk yard.
Well if you’re talking Tacoma, we think yes (1995.5) but I would recommend getting the same year if possible to avoid any compatibility problems you could encounter with that early first year Tacoma ECU.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah I have a 1995 tacoma 5vzfe 225k miles. Changed everything out that would fix a p0303. Nothing. The code remains to come back after a few drives. Mechanic told me it could be a computer issue since the truck runs decent considering the mileage (226k). Found one at a junkyard but it’s a 1997 with the same engine.
How much does it cost to replace ECU
Depends on how much you find a used ECU for. eBay has them in a range of prices for the same ECU, it just depends on what the seller is asking.. the cost to replace it is FREE if you do it yourself. As you can see from this video, it’s pretty straightforward. A couple interior panels, screws and electrical connectors and it’s out.
- Sean
Hey will a 4wd control module from a 2004 v6 Tacoma with e locker work in my 2004 Tacoma 2.7 4wd that I put a complete axle and complete factory wire harness from a 2004 Tacoma v6 truck. And I have the existing plug on the harness for the computer. I just read online 2001 was the last year I could get the option of a e locker in a 2.7 Tacoma. They are rare but I have seen them at a dealership. It was a factory add on if you bought the truck new
I think it would work out just fine but I can't say for sure because I've never done it. It makes sense that it would work though.
Timmy The Toolman I just called the dealer the part number is the same for the v6 and 2.7. Good to know! That info isn’t out there that I have found.
@@thatdude4000 Yeah, it sounds like it's going to work out.
Timmy The Toolman now where to find them used? All the salvage yards have the black module I can’t find the green module behind the aux plug anywhere! Any leads? Been searching Tacoma world today I just made a account
@@thatdude4000 You're looking where I would. I'm guessing you've also checked Ebay?