Thank you so much Paul for all the time a effort you pot into your videos. I’m extremely new too this craft less than two weeks old lol. I just found a little pot of gold from your craft called “ hook eye “ knife sharpener two weeks ago. With the help of your videos I’m progressing extremely well with my sharpening skills. Thanks again
Thank you thats fantastic to hear and it can be a really great source of making money it sure has been for me and many sharpeners shared info with me to help me get started so I feel it's the right thing to do for others. Since every home has knifes you potential customers are everywhere. Keep me posted on how it's going
Love your instructional videos. I agree with Jerry. You're a great teacher. I have been using a 4 sided strop for personal use for YEARS. Save me from having to sharpen my own knives.
Thank you, for the stropping options, with many to choose from, each sharpener will have to find what works best for them, not everyone will agree of one over the other. Good job, Paul! .
I got one of those flappy leather wheels for my bench grinder because I only have 2 belt grinders and I wanted to save myself time by not switching belts. I'm so happy I got it.
Ive just started stropping my knives when Im done, did the whole thing where I looked at them with a Jewelers loupe and then saw the burr basically disappear after, its a pretty amazing result. Im still trying to settle in and figure out what works best for me though. I feel like smooth side and rough side of leather both work about the same, Ive tried techdiamond paste and chromium oxide and both seem to be about the same as far as results, really its a matter of technique. Heating up the strop when a blowdryer after applying the paste is a pretty neat hack I found out about, really makes it easy to work the paste in. Only thing Im really not sold on is I made my on strop with 3" leather, and I feel like actually having a skinnier strop would be easier to use. Maybe 2" is the sweet spot, really not sure on that though.
Paul, I know I’m coming late to this party, since this vid is a year old by now, but doesn’t the type of steel also determine what sort of compound you use on the strop? Looking at some of the exotic pocket knife steels, such as Maxamet: do the diamond emulsions work better than other abrasives in your experience? Thanks.
In the background of this video, you have a grey carousel of sorts or a spindle organizer that I cannot locate. Can you point me to where I can locate it? I enjoy your videos and have used much of what you use and demonstrate. Ken/Ultra Sharp
@@ALXSHARPEN I also have 6 inch one, but different brand (without variable speed), which has only one speed (3000 rpm). Yours is from 2000 to 3450 rpm. And I use rock hard felt wheels with 3,5 micron and 1 micron sprays. Also good results. I am satisfied with it...
Another super helpful video, thanks Paul. I agree that the Tormek paste works very well. It's interesting to learn your favorite method is the leather flap wheel, I haven't tried that. Looks like a time saver. Do you use that to deburr serrated knives as well? Do the 1x30 leather belts with scalloped edges work well on serrated?
I love the leather flap wheel I use it for everything the scalloped belt is no better than a regular one in my opinion even on serrations the side of a regular belt will work just fine
@@ALXSHARPEN Just sharpened up some bread knives for 2 kitchens last week and deburred on the corner of a piece of wood to take it off, ran it back over the fine belt for a pass or 2, and then used the leather belt with diamond .05 um compound to clean up the edge and easily cuts paper. I am saving up for when I can get a setup like Currys from Currys Custom Cutlery and also get a proper bench grinder with a Scotch Brite wheel to take off the burr and have the leather wheel on the other side. Thanks for all the help in getting into the professional sharpening arena! Keep up the good work! I think Curry does have a good point on the serrations, I saw you use the belt splitter which you can absolutely get amazing edges on, but you not get as crisp and as clean of points as from the factory. He has some custom rounded diamond embedded wheels on his shop that create like new crispy serrations. He then still uses the Scotch Brite wheel and then strop on the serrated knives and is extremely quick and gives amazing results! What are your thoughts? Sincerely, JS
The key with the sprays and emulsions is to have a more course grit. Coming off of 600 grit Belt you probablywant 1500-3000, at those grits they are very aggressive.
Super relevant video for me. I just got the flap wheel in from your Amazon link, also have BGA and 1x30 leather belts. Have a market tomorrow and trying to figure out which I like best. I was thinking about putting the leather flap wheel on my buck tool low speed 1 by 30 which is 1750 RPM. Is that an okay speed for the leather wheel? Also, I don’t have a jig, would you personally still consider the leather wheel your best or favorite option if you were doing it free hand?
That's fine for motorized strops, but what compound do you recommend for manual blocks? And do you suggest anything for the skin (smooth) side, or just the suede side?
Good stuff! Personally I think the kangaroo leather is worth it vs cow leather but it's pretty subtle. IMO it's more about the feel and feedback, and the difference is not extreme (although I think 'roo has the edge more at very high grits, like 1/4 micron and smaller). And JMOHO but as a chef I like my edges finished on a 10,000 Naniwa Chocera stropped with 1/8 micron CBN on a kangaroo leather strop. That would be overkill for EDC but it's nice for a high end kitchen knife.
But I recall you also had a video or commented within that video about Tormek composite wheel that it runs like butter and that you love it. You probably had a different mindset presently.
No need to use the jig at that point once you learn the proper angle and pressure for stropping it goes fast so I remove it and get to it. I will only leave it in the jig if I think I may have to grind more but after doing thousands of knives I generally don’t need it for stropping.
@@ALXSHARPEN so is it that stropping doesn't have the chance to remove significant material that you feel comfortable free handing? if you have a comfort in angle and pressure, why not freehand the whole process?
@@cpen9667 that’s correct stropping removes very little material. It’s smoothing microscopic, imperfections and refining the burr you can over strop which can actually start to dull the knife, so the hardest thing to learn is the fine line between enough stropping and over stropping
Waters not great for the leather and when the strop needs some lubricant as they dry it’s good to put a little mineral oil on them well the water and mineral oil don’t mix well. I also use some felt strops and it best to only use alcohol based diamond spray on felt
Great video Paul! I can't believe how much stuff you have. I settled on an 8in 1/2 hp Ricon slow speed grinder with a WoodTurners 220 grit 8" CBN wheel and a Razor Sharp 10 x 1 paper wheel with white compound. I agree with you observations on Kangaroo. Shell Cordovan is very nice though but so expensive. In general kitchen knives go the the Ricon while my pocket knife gets touched on a Dan's arkansas 8" med/black conbination stone. No strop necessary as it shaves arm hair off the black, but the Rikon gets it sharper and I'm just to lazy to pull fire up the Rikon for just one knife. Insidently the Preamer 6pcs 1/8" Shank Arbor Cut-Off Wheel HSS Mandrel fits the Dedeco Sunburst Radial Bristle Discs - 2" Dia, 1/4" Arbor. You may want to put that on your Sharpeners Section of your website. And no I have not tried the Dedeco Discs yet, I've been too busy playing with mirror finishes using the Milwaukee M12 FUEL 1/4 in. Right Angle Die Grinder. I think it was you who turned me onto that. Keep up the good work Paul. Thanks!
Yes what a great little finishing sander just wish I could find an inline sander of the same size but my search goes on following that up with the radial discs is awesome years ago I had a sander one that was orbital or in line with the throw of a lever but I just can’t find one anywhere now all the inline sanders I see now are huge. I know so much stuff thank God I have plenty of business to support my sharpening,knife making and lasering stuff addiction.
No stropping is the hardest part to master. But a knife isn't really sharp until it's stropped and when done well you will see and feel the difference immediately. It's a crucial part that should not be skipped.
Cordovan strops are as good as it gets. Roo leather is pointless for larger than 1um abrasives, for sub micron they have benefits but that's about it. You want the finest strop surface it's cordovan horse leather. That's only beneficial at straight razor shaving instruments level. For cutlery it's literally pointless.
Just buy my diamond emulsions, priced very low with premium performance. Highest grade/highest particle sized diamond one can buy. The cost of poly crystal emuslions per ounce is a joke. Mine cuts faster, as much if not more consistent scratch patterns and at an extremely fair price. I literally designed my emulsions to stop the couple big brands from taking advantage of people charging 50+ as ounce for emulsions.
The diamonds are on my tools page you just mix with alcohol some people like to use hand sanitizer that works also www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
You're turning into a great teacher. Thanks for your dedication to the craft.
Wow, thank you!
Thank you so much Paul for all the time a effort you pot into your videos. I’m extremely new too this craft less than two weeks old lol. I just found a little pot of gold from your craft called “ hook eye “ knife sharpener two weeks ago. With the help of your videos I’m progressing extremely well with my sharpening skills. Thanks again
Thank you thats fantastic to hear and it can be a really great source of making money it sure has been for me and many sharpeners shared info with me to help me get started so I feel it's the right thing to do for others. Since every home has knifes you potential customers are everywhere. Keep me posted on how it's going
Love your instructional videos. I agree with Jerry. You're a great teacher. I have been using a 4 sided strop for personal use for YEARS. Save me from having to sharpen my own knives.
thank you
Thank you, for the stropping options, with many to choose from, each sharpener will have to find what works best for them, not everyone will agree of one over the other. Good job, Paul! .
yes we all find what we like best for how we sharpen
I got one of those flappy leather wheels for my bench grinder because I only have 2 belt grinders and I wanted to save myself time by not switching belts. I'm so happy I got it.
Thank you for talking the truth from your personal perspective!!
My pleasure!!
I personally am a basswood and stroppy stuff kinda guy. Great video and im glad I stumbled on it.
Another great video Paul
Glad you enjoyed it
Ive just started stropping my knives when Im done, did the whole thing where I looked at them with a Jewelers loupe and then saw the burr basically disappear after, its a pretty amazing result. Im still trying to settle in and figure out what works best for me though. I feel like smooth side and rough side of leather both work about the same, Ive tried techdiamond paste and chromium oxide and both seem to be about the same as far as results, really its a matter of technique. Heating up the strop when a blowdryer after applying the paste is a pretty neat hack I found out about, really makes it easy to work the paste in. Only thing Im really not sold on is I made my on strop with 3" leather, and I feel like actually having a skinnier strop would be easier to use. Maybe 2" is the sweet spot, really not sure on that though.
It sounds like you are doing well with the stropping! Keep experimenting and find what works best for you.
where can I purchase the grey merry-go-rounds you are using for your dental wheels?
Paul, I know I’m coming late to this party, since this vid is a year old by now, but doesn’t the type of steel also determine what sort of compound you use on the strop? Looking at some of the exotic pocket knife steels, such as Maxamet: do the diamond emulsions work better than other abrasives in your experience? Thanks.
In the background of this video, you have a grey carousel of sorts or a spindle organizer that I cannot locate. Can you point me to where I can locate it? I enjoy your videos and have used much of what you use and demonstrate.
Ken/Ultra Sharp
amzn.to/4e3gHn5
Is that Fox speed grinder with 8 inch wheels or 6 inch ones?
Mine is 6 but you can get 8
@@ALXSHARPEN I also have 6 inch one, but different brand (without variable speed), which has only one speed (3000 rpm).
Yours is from 2000 to 3450 rpm.
And I use rock hard felt wheels with 3,5 micron and 1 micron sprays. Also good results. I am satisfied with it...
Another super helpful video, thanks Paul. I agree that the Tormek paste works very well. It's interesting to learn your favorite method is the leather flap wheel, I haven't tried that. Looks like a time saver. Do you use that to deburr serrated knives as well? Do the 1x30 leather belts with scalloped edges work well on serrated?
I love the leather flap wheel I use it for everything the scalloped belt is no better than a regular one in my opinion even on serrations the side of a regular belt will work just fine
@@ALXSHARPEN Just sharpened up some bread knives for 2 kitchens last week and deburred on the corner of a piece of wood to take it off, ran it back over the fine belt for a pass or 2, and then used the leather belt with diamond .05 um compound to clean up the edge and easily cuts paper. I am saving up for when I can get a setup like Currys from Currys Custom Cutlery and also get a proper bench grinder with a Scotch Brite wheel to take off the burr and have the leather wheel on the other side. Thanks for all the help in getting into the professional sharpening arena! Keep up the good work! I think Curry does have a good point on the serrations, I saw you use the belt splitter which you can absolutely get amazing edges on, but you not get as crisp and as clean of points as from the factory. He has some custom rounded diamond embedded wheels on his shop that create like new crispy serrations. He then still uses the Scotch Brite wheel and then strop on the serrated knives and is extremely quick and gives amazing results!
What are your thoughts?
Sincerely,
JS
What’s the make on the variable speed grinder
Shop Fox its in my list www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
Great video! Very informative. I am interested in DIY diamond spray. What ratio alcohol to diamonds did you use? What type of Alcohol?
4-5 OZ of 99% Isopropyl to the entire container link below they are in the polishing section
www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
The key with the sprays and emulsions is to have a more course grit. Coming off of 600 grit Belt you probablywant 1500-3000, at those grits they are very aggressive.
Super relevant video for me. I just got the flap wheel in from your Amazon link, also have BGA and 1x30 leather belts. Have a market tomorrow and trying to figure out which I like best.
I was thinking about putting the leather flap wheel on my buck tool low speed 1 by 30 which is 1750 RPM. Is that an okay speed for the leather wheel?
Also, I don’t have a jig, would you personally still consider the leather wheel your best or favorite option if you were doing it free hand?
My leather wheel is my best and favorite option for all stropping and the low speed grinder will be perfect for it.
@@ALXSHARPEN you always use a jig with it right? Would it still be your favorite if you were just freehanding it?
That's fine for motorized strops, but what compound do you recommend for manual blocks? And do you suggest anything for the skin (smooth) side, or just the suede side?
I use the same stuff on my leath strops on wood blocks works great
Tormek compound on wood block strops? Smooth or rough?
Good stuff! Personally I think the kangaroo leather is worth it vs cow leather but it's pretty subtle. IMO it's more about the feel and feedback, and the difference is not extreme (although I think 'roo has the edge more at very high grits, like 1/4 micron and smaller). And JMOHO but as a chef I like my edges finished on a 10,000 Naniwa Chocera stropped with 1/8 micron CBN on a kangaroo leather strop. That would be overkill for EDC but it's nice for a high end kitchen knife.
Hi, there are couple of different leather wheels available. Which one do you recommend. Thx
amzn.to/3YnT2Ix
if you need 8" then this one amzn.to/3YnT2Ix
I flipped the motor on this one so its going edge tailing on the switch side amzn.to/3YnT2Ix
amzn.to/4feZd8r
sorry that was the wrong link here is the right one above
But I recall you also had a video or commented within that video about Tormek composite wheel that it runs like butter and that you love it. You probably had a different mindset presently.
I liked it but over time I have grown to love the leather far better It just didn't give me as good as results as the leather and Tormkek Paste
i am curious why it seems you always use a jig with the CBN wheels but seem to always strop freehand. why not also use a jig while stropping?
No need to use the jig at that point once you learn the proper angle and pressure for stropping it goes fast so I remove it and get to it. I will only leave it in the jig if I think I may have to grind more but after doing thousands of knives I generally don’t need it for stropping.
@@ALXSHARPEN so is it that stropping doesn't have the chance to remove significant material that you feel comfortable free handing? if you have a comfort in angle and pressure, why not freehand the whole process?
@@cpen9667 that’s correct stropping removes very little material. It’s smoothing microscopic, imperfections and refining the burr you can over strop which can actually start to dull the knife, so the hardest thing to learn is the fine line between enough stropping and over stropping
Why alcohol vs water for the suspension?
Waters not great for the leather and when the strop needs some lubricant as they dry it’s good to put a little mineral oil on them well the water and mineral oil don’t mix well. I also use some felt strops and it best to only use alcohol based diamond spray on felt
Great video Paul! I can't believe how much stuff you have. I settled on an 8in 1/2 hp Ricon slow speed grinder with a WoodTurners 220 grit 8" CBN wheel and a Razor Sharp 10 x 1 paper wheel with white compound. I agree with you observations on Kangaroo. Shell Cordovan is very nice though but so expensive. In general kitchen knives go the the Ricon while my pocket knife gets touched on a Dan's arkansas 8" med/black conbination stone. No strop necessary as it shaves arm hair off the black, but the Rikon gets it sharper and I'm just to lazy to pull fire up the Rikon for just one knife.
Insidently the Preamer 6pcs 1/8" Shank Arbor Cut-Off Wheel HSS Mandrel fits the Dedeco Sunburst Radial Bristle Discs - 2" Dia, 1/4" Arbor. You may want to put that on your Sharpeners Section of your website. And no I have not tried the Dedeco Discs yet, I've been too busy playing with mirror finishes using the Milwaukee M12 FUEL 1/4 in. Right Angle Die Grinder. I think it was you who turned me onto that. Keep up the good work Paul. Thanks!
Yes what a great little finishing sander just wish I could find an inline sander of the same size but my search goes on following that up with the radial discs is awesome years ago I had a sander one that was orbital or in line with the throw of a lever but I just can’t find one anywhere now all the inline sanders I see now are huge.
I know so much stuff thank God I have plenty of business to support my sharpening,knife making and lasering stuff addiction.
Can you get razor sharp WITHOUT stropping?
No stropping is the hardest part to master. But a knife isn't really sharp until it's stropped and when done well you will see and feel the difference immediately. It's a crucial part that should not be skipped.
Cordovan strops are as good as it gets. Roo leather is pointless for larger than 1um abrasives, for sub micron they have benefits but that's about it. You want the finest strop surface it's cordovan horse leather. That's only beneficial at straight razor shaving instruments level. For cutlery it's literally pointless.
Stroptions.
Just buy my diamond emulsions, priced very low with premium performance. Highest grade/highest particle sized diamond one can buy. The cost of poly crystal emuslions per ounce is a joke. Mine cuts faster, as much if not more consistent scratch patterns and at an extremely fair price. I literally designed my emulsions to stop the couple big brands from taking advantage of people charging 50+ as ounce for emulsions.
I don't see any links to check out your emulsions on your profile. I do agree many brands are a total waste of money do you have a website?
The diamonds are on my tools page you just mix with alcohol some people like to use hand sanitizer that works also www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
What’s the link to your information?