After several years of requests I've finally got all the bits together to show the important issues that many of the current posts on fitting a sea cock don't cover!
2:22 The information about hand tightening the nut in sealant then a further 1/2 turn tighter the next day is actually in the Trudesign official installation video on their website - think I would prefer to follow the manufacturer’s instructions rather than an importer but each to their own on this very important issue
@Captain-Paul it's a good point but when then turning a further 1/4 turn you are risking breaking the sealant seal.. that seems wrong in my view . Appreciate the comments always more than one way to do some jobs!
When you use the load collar you have to screw them in together as below the valve handle has to sit inside the recess. The way you have screwed it in this video is sitting and tightened only on two edges on the side of the valve.
Yes correct but i hadnt fully tightened up as I was concentrating in ensuring anyone who fits these ensures they remove any core. Thanks for the comment 👍
After watching several vids on TruDesign that don’t show how the collar goes on… Came to see how the collar screws on with the seacock and the recess for handle and everything and he just stuffs it on there misaligned haha. Looks simple enough anyway. Ahhh well
We replaced all thru hulls with sea cocks of True Design when we bought our 1976 Nicholson 35. Think it is great stuff and we’ll never have any corrosion issues anymore. Now after 4 season the sea cocks are still operable as if they are new. Would like to thank you for this very clear video. There are many videos on UA-cam about True Design but non of them cover all the relevant aspects. Great job! Grtz, Harry
looking at using True Design for most of my seacocks, but the engine inlet space is limited so looking at Marelon for that as they are more compact. would Stokbord of 6mm be enough?
@@TheMarineSurveyorNotebookBenSu thankyou. for my engine inlet i was going to use a marelon 1/2" composite but cannot find them in stock anywhere with the straight male hose spur, they seemed more compact for the limited space i have under the v berth. do you think a 1" would be too big for a 2gm20?
Anywhere but not in an engine room the reason is withing the code and the MCA won't accept them as they will not remain in use for 30 mins at 1000 deg c!!!! Despite no grp makes it that far!!!!
@@TheMarineSurveyorNotebookBenSu I had a suspicion that might be the case, despite making no sense whatsoever! And the melting point of brass is 930° 🤷🏻♂️
I'm more confused now. Why do you need to cut a recess for that circular flange? Can't you just lay it on the hull and then screw the fitting onto it? Also when screwing in the valve itself, why use Sikaflex? On the threads? You will never get it off again. So I don't understand that either.
Please dont be too confused! Providing a support ring for the fitting gives much better support and ensures a flat surface to tighten up in,especially if the laminate is thin, as is the case on many grp production boats these days. Using a sealant like sika or even lock tight is recommended by the importers in the UK. Especially on joints.
From what I have seen on the trudesign Web site, they only recommend sikkaflex applied to the skin fitting so that it does not go beyond the interior hull surface, ie no sikkaflex on the thread where the lock nut is tightened. Is this what is being said in the video? It seems you are recommending sikkaflex on the skin to valve threads. Am I understanding you correctly here? Also the thing that has not been mentioned is fitting alignment issues ie ensuring the valve handle can open when a right angle hose barb is attached and tightened. What if the tightened position of the right angle hose barb on the valve interferes with the valve handle when the handle is in the open position? Thanks for the video.
2:22 The information about hand tightening the nut in sealant then a further 1/2 turn tighter the next day is actually in the Trudesign official installation video on their website - think I would prefer to follow the manufacturer’s instructions rather than an importer but each to their own on this very important issue
@Captain-Paul it's a good point but when then turning a further 1/4 turn you are risking breaking the sealant seal.. that seems wrong in my view . Appreciate the comments always more than one way to do some jobs!
When you use the load collar you have to screw them in together as below the valve handle has to sit inside the recess. The way you have screwed it in this video is sitting and tightened only on two edges on the side of the valve.
Yes correct but i hadnt fully tightened up as I was concentrating in ensuring anyone who fits these ensures they remove any core. Thanks for the comment 👍
After watching several vids on TruDesign that don’t show how the collar goes on… Came to see how the collar screws on with the seacock and the recess for handle and everything and he just stuffs it on there misaligned haha. Looks simple enough anyway. Ahhh well
We replaced all thru hulls with sea cocks of True Design when we bought our 1976 Nicholson 35. Think it is great stuff and we’ll never have any corrosion issues anymore. Now after 4 season the sea cocks are still operable as if they are new.
Would like to thank you for this very clear video. There are many videos on UA-cam about True Design but non of them cover all the relevant aspects.
Great job!
Grtz, Harry
Hi many thanks for your kind review. Glad you are enjoying the Nicholson.
Very informative Ben. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Ben - very good timing
looking at using True Design for most of my seacocks, but the engine inlet space is limited so looking at Marelon for that as they are more compact. would Stokbord of 6mm be enough?
@wysiwyg2006 sorfor the delay in replying.. personally the 12mm is better.. but obviously depends on what is the current thickness a d make up
@@TheMarineSurveyorNotebookBenSu thankyou. for my engine inlet i was going to use a marelon 1/2" composite but cannot find them in stock anywhere with the straight male hose spur, they seemed more compact for the limited space i have under the v berth. do you think a 1" would be too big for a 2gm20?
Are the plastic Tru design and Forespar seacocks allowed under MGN 280?
Anywhere but not in an engine room the reason is withing the code and the MCA won't accept them as they will not remain in use for 30 mins at 1000 deg c!!!! Despite no grp makes it that far!!!!
@@TheMarineSurveyorNotebookBenSu I had a suspicion that might be the case, despite making no sense whatsoever! And the melting point of brass is 930° 🤷🏻♂️
I'm more confused now. Why do you need to cut a recess for that circular flange? Can't you just lay it on the hull and then screw the fitting onto it? Also when screwing in the valve itself, why use Sikaflex? On the threads? You will never get it off again. So I don't understand that either.
Please dont be too confused! Providing a support ring for the fitting gives much better support and ensures a flat surface to tighten up in,especially if the laminate is thin, as is the case on many grp production boats these days. Using a sealant like sika or even lock tight is recommended by the importers in the UK. Especially on joints.
OK thank you
From what I have seen on the trudesign Web site, they only recommend sikkaflex applied to the skin fitting so that it does not go beyond the interior hull surface, ie no sikkaflex on the thread where the lock nut is tightened. Is this what is being said in the video? It seems you are recommending sikkaflex on the skin to valve threads. Am I understanding you correctly here? Also the thing that has not been mentioned is fitting alignment issues ie ensuring the valve handle can open when a right angle hose barb is attached and tightened. What if the tightened position of the right angle hose barb on the valve interferes with the valve handle when the handle is in the open position? Thanks for the video.