Sail Life - DIY osmosis repair and Trudesign Seacocks (thru hull and ball valves)
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- In this video, I use a powerful pressure washer and a combination of sand and water as the next step in my DIY osmosis repair. I also remove the last of the old thru hulls and take a look at some fiberglass reinforced nylon thru hulls and ball valves from Trudesign.
I tell you what my friend, whoever ends up buying Oblix will have themselves a well cared for and well documented boat to enjoy for many years to come. I loved watching you put your Heart and Soul into it. I have been inspired many times and even tackled many projects after watching you do the same.
I have always wondered how people sanded and painted under the stands and your video was actually the only video I have ever seen where you actually showed how it was done, thank you for that. I hope to have my vessel sometime this year to start on. I just found your channel so I have a bit of catching up to do.
I can't believe how calm you are to any obstacle that arises, you have great patience and clarity of mind.
I have been following for a while and love the way you demonstrate everything and explain from your point of view why you justify what you do or use.
Keep going strong, my wife and I will be moving to a vessel in 2 to 3 years when we retire and I am taking in every bit like yours to get ready.
Cheers and thanks, you definitely have talent.
instaBlaster...
Mads; I love your videos to the point where I'm disappointed when you are unable to make one. I don't understand how you are able to make, edit and publish these videos while at the same time getting the work done on your boat. Keep up the good work. God Bless
Thank you so much! :) I'm flattered that you enjoy the videos that much :) Shooting video does slow me down quite a lot but it seems like it's more than worth it considering all the kind and amazing people I've gotten to know because of the videos :) If you keep watching I'll keep filming :P
Mads keeps levelling up his sanding skills - now with actual sand ;)
ive been using composite seacocks for 25 years and have never had an issue with them
Awesome! That is very reassuring :)
I agree with your choice of composite seacocks. After all, the entire hull is a composite. Plus IMO, the likely point of failure is the hose and hose clamps.
Good point! :)
I always though there had to be a redundancy. You have a composite nut on composite threads. Shouldn't the manufacturer had made an allowance for bolts thru the outer flange? We had a small one that exited just above the water line (sink drain). We must of clipped something on a dock that snapped the plastic flange off. On a starboard tack the bilge alarm went off, we went nutz trying to figure it out. I replaced it with a stainless steel
one.
You are supposed to glue the thru hull on with epoxy so it becomes part of the hull, their is no way you would be able to snap it off then as it will be stronger than the polyester hull material itself.
Actually it was, however the plastic torn up past the 5200
@@carbidegrd1then the pact would have broken a thruhull of any material off then
Fairing the curves of the hull can be difficult. Especially since you are, in effect, working "upside up". All the work will be over your head. Messy. BUT, you can fair with an old saw blade and fairing compound. Usually polyester resin and fiber (micro balloons). Make sure the saw you find has a straight back. Tape up the toothed side and turn the back side to the hull. The spring steel bends evenly and you can pull the mud across the bottom with it. It will fill the low spots and ride the high ones. Go in several directions. Good series.
Eric Thomsen you mean hacksaw blades, right?
Thanks, Mads. Awesome as always. Got me thinking seriously about composite seacocks.
Thank you so much :)
Seacock is an absolute accurate term of what you showed.
I think its where seamen comes from.
LOL, good catch!
If the valve itself does not bolt to the hull, it's not a seacock, its just a valve screwed to a through hull.
LOL, Urban Deployment
Nope, maybe to Mayflowers time. It is defined by it's function and not by it's construction. Main feature is the valve.
I think the biggest advantage to doing a job like this yourself is just the knowledge. YOU KNOW the state of your hull better than anyone now, and you'll never have to take anyone's word for it. You also have an (intimate :-D ) knowledge of where the problem areas are and what to keep an eye on. The $2500 you saved doing it yourself May be saving you $ for years and years to come.
Hehe, I do feel very intimate with the hull :P I wholeheartedly agree that getting to know your boat is a big upside to doing something like this yourself instead of paying someone to do it :)
Hello Mads,
Looking great, líke you I have removed all seacocks - and replaced them with TruDesign!
As a fellow Dane and extreme DIY-man, maybe we should get in contact over email, just to gather our DIY mindset and dreams. I've bougt a Swedish Shipman 28 last year, now theres nothing left except the fibreglass hull (also cut out the cabin etc.) and now i'm rebuilding the boat completely. Therefor 'm going thru ALL shipbuilding fases - it's a very exciting projekt!
I'm located near Vordingborg, so distance is against us sharing i real life, but your are allways velcome in my workshop... (My comment is in english and not danish, hope it's understable for all your viewers on this great channel)
Greeting,
Christian
As I've sanded my hull lately and taken it back to the bare hull I would agree about it being the worst job I've done on my boat. Incidentally everyone I know who has done the same agrees...
Painting with the epoxy was much more fun ..!!
Warren
Hehe, good think it's not just me ;) It's always more fun building stuff than tearing it down :)
Last spring/summer I helped a friend put 4 layers of fairing on his Hallberg-Rassy 35 Rasmus, as his boat suffered from osmosis as well, so I know exactly what your going thru. You've made remarkable progress and as always I find your videos very informative and extremely well produced and I can't wait for Sunday to roll around so that I can watch a new episode and see what Mads is up to. Can't wait to see the finished project!
Thank you so much! :) If you want to relive the fun from last summer then feel free to drop by ;) I'm sure it'll be grueling work! What products did you use? :)
West Systems 105 resin, the 205 hardener, can't remember which # filler (perhaps the 407). I'll ask him and let you know.
I'm betting it'll be 407 and/or 410 filler :P
Hi Mads, regarding sanding the hull after filling the voids; I would recommend using a longboard and sanding in a crossing pattern ( x-pattern ). Starting at one end of the boat, work your way to the other end, and then make the x`s as you sand your way back.
I know it`s not the most fun way of doing it, I just did it to a 40-footer after rebuilding the entire hull with new core and outer skin, but it prevents making a box-shaped hull. Best of luck :)
Thanks! Awesome advice :) I'll keep it in mind! Hehe, box-shaped hull - yikes, I don't want that ;)
Mads, my brother has recently replaced all of his thru hulls with one into a large easily accessible stainless Steel manifold. Like you he had the same access issues with the thru hulls. Seems when the yacht designer does not care how these thru hulls will be serviced later in the yacht's life. Less thru hulls is less risk to failure. His yacht is a Jeanneau 42. Worth thinking about.
Very much worth thinking about! Thanks! :)
Hi, I am in the process of doing similar jobs to you (Osmosis / replacing seacocks etc). I too with hindsight would have had my hull blasted after I had it gel peeled. I have also waited 3 months for it to dry out (UK Summer!) having tried multiple washing and steaming regimes with little effect. I have now tented the lower hull and paid someone to Hotvac it for me, which is finally working. Will be interesting to see if yours dries out any better. Following this I am sheathing it with cloth and epoxy. I have opted for Forespar Marelon through hulls which have the advantage of being all in one (so no collar), but you cannot replace single components if they fail. Must say I am not too impressed with the engineering tolerances of the Forespar products! Thanks for the motivation as I agree, Osmosis work is hard graft!
Super exciting to hear from someone else in the midst of fighting osmosis :D Is it expensive to have a boat hotvac'ed? I remember reading aboard it but being unable to find anyone in Denmark offering that service. My hull has gone from "off the scale" to around 70 (out of 100) on my Skipper plus meter. I'm crossing my fingers for a heatwave and lots of dry wind ;)
I struck a deal with someone who wanted to help out. But there is the added expense of the protective tent/skirt (although with UK Summer, that is probably advisable anyway). So all in about £1000. Mine is down from around 30 on sovereign meter to mid/high teens now. Best wishes for warm wind ;-)
Hi Mads,
Here's a direct quote from Smith & Co, the inventor of osmosis barrier system.
"The factors that will prevent blistering in all but the most egregious cases are, first, the barrier on the outside, and second, some positive means of (permanent) ventilation throughout the bilge, and any part of the hull that is below the waterline.
This implies that the bilge should be kept dry.
Sometimes it is impossible to keep the bilge dry due to inevitable water leakage around the shaft. In that case use that same moisture-diffusion barrier coating to coat the inside ONLY WHERE THE WATER
RUNS down into a sump where the bilge pump sits. That way the part of the bilge that is inevitably wet does not feed water into the laminate, and water vapor is free to diffuse out of the laminate on the inside, where the (permanent) ventilation can carry it out and away. "
I also read somewhere, but cannot remember where, that running fans 24/7 inside the boat speeds drying. The interior deck/bilge and cabinets are left open, so the air can circulate and some hatches or port-lights are left open, to let the moist air evacuate. The inner hull will dry as fast or faster than the outer hull because there is no barrier coat, just glass and resin(usually polyester). This procedure can half the drying time...
Hope this helps,David
The hull is coming along great!!!! Learning a ton watching you work on the new boat. As far as the composite sea cocks, as long as there is nothing in the space to hit them........ I'd go with them. Biggest fear is fire or a big open hole in the hull!!! I would imagine that they would hold up fine though. Can't wait for the next one!!!
Thanks! :) It's most definitely a good idea to square away the boat so that stuff doesn't go flying in rough weather :) As for a fire aboard a GRP boat I don't think the seacocks would be my first concern. Man, I would hate to experience a fire aboard a GRP boat!
+Sail Life no kidding!!!!!! Your an awesome guy, and thanks for your reply. I never miss a video, and have watched them all from the start!
We just finished our spring haul out and sanded and painted. Luckily we didn't have to go down to the glass like you did, but it was fun anyway. Keep up the great videos.
Even though you didn't need to go down to bare fiberglass it's still a lot of work :) I hope you'll be rewarded with a lot of good sailing this summer :)
She certainly seems faster. I think I have a knot and a half increase in speed. You should be screaming through the water when you're done.
I do plastic injection molding for a living and glass filled nylon is bad ass stuff. Very strong and as long as they put a uv inhibitor in it.(which I'm sure any decent company would do). It will do what you want for years. I don't care if you use bronze or nylon valves if you don't open and close them a few times a year the junk will build up in there and they will jam open or closed.
You make a lot of sense! I feel the exact same way :)
There is glass filled nylon, and there is glass filled nylon. You'd assume the use of glass fibre, but it can also be spheroidal, which makes a more brittle moulding. I've seen a supplier inexplicably switch to spheroidal from fibre. It caused havoc.
G'day Mads, I am building a 12m Cat and used Marelon valves and through hull fittings for the same reasons. To prevent breaking handles off they just need a bit of lube in the ball part and open and close them regularly. My boat is all epoxy so I just sanded the surfaces and epoxy bogged the through hulls in. I figured if they ever need replacing I will just drill them out.... Cheers from Down Under, Russell
Hi Russell. Awesome! I'd love to build a boat from scratch at some point! I tip my hat to you :) I plan on installing my thru hulls the exact same way :) Fair winds, Mads
I have started to replace the bronze seacocks that I installed in 2008. The reason is that handles snaps of as the stem between the handle and the ball is made of brass. Brass parts in a bronze housing is not clever engineering, as the brass will be weakened by galvanic corrosion. The standard brass seacocks actually lasted longer.... My choice was the Truedesign. The first Truedesign that I installed has been there for 5 years. It is till as smooth as when it was installed. No lubrication whatsoever! Having in mind this is a holding tank/WC discharge I’m amazed as it isa very hostile environment.
She had her moments, and trained up to be a good sailor . The. Valve I referred to always operated well . It was at the time 5 years old and located under the galley sink in what should have been a hard place to damage.... I was surprised at how brittle it truly was . Even though that boat was 26 ft long and drew 5 feet I own a trailer ... I used this opera unity to replace all 5 valves and backer blocks with bronze ... It was a Capri 26 and the factory placed the Martec and I thought nothing of it tell that moment... And yet the builder to this day still uses the same through hull arrangement ...
I know trudesign has their own monitoring system, but the two holes (for a lock) is perfect for adding a reed-switch + magnet, and create a DIY monitor of the seacocks.
Thank you Mads for another fantastic update. I am setting here today with my hand on the trigger thinking about pulling it on the purchase of a 1977 C&C 27. I wanted something more like a 34 to 38 foot boat but price for something worth owning was just not possible at this time. I found this 27 which seems to be in great shape. A lot of work has been done on her and she comes with a lot of extras including chart plotter, auto pilot etc. it has a gas engine (atomic 4) that has recently been professionally rebuilt and only 50 hours on it. The one thing about it that leaves me worries me is that the boat has not been hauled out for 3 years. The owner has had a diver clean and inspect the hull every other month and the Zincs have been changed as needed, last time a couple of weeks ago. He showed me the divers reports which indicate that the hull is in good shape. The purchase price is less than $5,000 US and I have been told that you do not do a survey on a boat of that price.
I ran out of space
I know I will need to haul it out asap and clean and inspect the hull and put new bottom paint on it. I just pray that it is not full of blisters and problems, if I buy it
+Don Harden contacted the guy today to buy the C&C 27 just to find out that he sold it yesterday. Still lookin
Dang it! That is just rotten luck! I'm crossing my fingers you'll find another one soon :)
I just purchased 1985 C&C 35 MK III. I had an in water survey done for insurance, which is required for all boats over 20 y/o. Survey was extremely favorable, with a short list of projects that need to be completed for insurance purposes.
The surveyor and I had a lengthy conversation about the quality construction of standard C&C. Pre-purchase, I inspected the boat extensively, and inspected the bottom and inspected the hull for obvious issues.
I absolutely love this boat, she is powerful and fun to sail. I highly recommend C&C.
I faired my hull and a trick I used to find areas out of level was to splash the hull with water once I finished filling/sanding for the day. The reflections of the sun on the wet hull reveal imperfections that feel smooth or look ok when dry.
Thanks Madds for another great video. I agree 100% with your definitions of thru hulls and seacocks. There is a lot of misuse of the terms. Thanks for continuing to improve on the quality of your videos but they are excellent already. Your English is so near perfect, I'm compelled to point out that you need to emphasize the "pos" in "composite" and not the "comp". Now you ARE perfect.
Fairing compound sands *much* easier than what you've done so far. Don't feel too overwhelmed. My only tip is don't skimp on the size of your fairing board.
I agree with your assessment of composite seacocks. They aren't allowed on US commercial vessels, but not for any of the reasons you listed. They aren't allowed because of fire. Naturally that is a bit silly on an FRP boat. In your application, the pros far outweigh the cons.
Since you've gone this far, I think it is worth thinking through the plumbing to see if you can combine things and reduce the number of holes in the hull.
That is excellent news! Easy sanding would be nice to try just once ;)
Very interesting that composite seacocks are not allowed on commercial vessels in the US. I wonder if it's the same over :) As you mention that is not really that big of a concern aboard a GRP boat. I would hate to experience being aboard a GRP boat on fire!
Solid advice :) I'm considering leading both shower drains and sink drains to the same shower sump :) I think I'll keep the sink in the gally on its own seacock :)
Sorry for the confusion. Hopefully I can clear it up.
US commercial vessel rules are written with larger steel vessels in mind. Regardless of what it is made of, the materials keeping the water out (boat floating) must be able to withstand temperatures of a raging fire for a minimum amount of time without catastrophic failure. Obviously fire aboard any boat is a nightmare. I didn't mean to sound like I was downplaying that. What I meant by silly is that it makes little sense to be overly concerned with how a composite seacock will hold up in a fire when the entire hull is composite.
Good call on the (greywater) sump. Showers draining into the bilge are notoriously unpleasant.
The reason the handle gets snapped is because there's build-up on the ball. EVERY two months you must cycle the valves. It's valid for any ball valve. If you don't, you're bound to ruin it.
100% true :) I exercise my seacocks aboard Obelix once a month :)
The hull is looking great Mads, I don't think you will have any trouble fairing it out.
Thanks, Adam! How is your boat coming along? :)
It's been really slow lately, my stepmom died of cancer earlier this year and took the wind out my sails so to speak.
Oh no! I'm so sorry about your stepmom. That's horrible! The boat will wait :)
I've trying to get back to work on it, but the summer heat here right now temperatures are are heat index of 105 right makes it hard to get fiberglass work as know.
Congratulations, since you are very thorough you ended up teaching me some stuff here! Good you got rid of those thru holes. Thanks a bundle!
and sea cocks.
I used to work as an auto body painter's helper. I regularly sanded vehicles, many were Chevrolet Corvettes to their base. Sometimes two a week and I did this for years. It can sometimes be grueling work.
Yikes! You must be very efficient at sanding after all that. I tip my hat! Corvettes... that must have meant sanding fiberglass? Oh, that lovely itchy feeling ;)
Great video, reminds me of when I had my Columbia sand blasted and fared the hull. Took the whole month of May and part of June back in 2013 with my father. I used the West System to fare it then barrier coated it about 5 layers. That was my first time ever dealing with blisters/voids etc. If I had to do it again, I would of taken more time and care preparing the hull, filling in the voids, sanding the hull and coating the hull. Have fun! You'll know every square inch of Athena in no time!!
Thank you for sharing your experience. I find your DIY sand blasting very interesting. It is certainly do-able and not so intimating. But not all boatyard allow such work by boaters.
Another really good video, you make the big problems seen not so big in buying a boat thanks
Thank you so much :) Most problems aboard fiberglass boats are not that expensive to fix if you're up for a bit of DIY :) Of course, it helps a lot if you love doing boat projects :P
A traditional seacock is typically a tapered cone valve, fastened to the hull with thru-bolts and thru-hull. I've broken all number of configuration and material, and I'd personally not discard the notion of a composite ball valve and thru-hull out of hand. There will always be a weak link to any part. The one commonly used in the US usually fails at the stem between the handle and ball, typically when fouled with growth and subsequently turned. I recommend a rigorously maintained schedule of simply actuating valves, say once a week/month depending on fouling conditions. Since you're in the thick of laminate repair already, you really should give strong consideration to employing manifolds, AKA sea chests: one for supply, one for discharge. Make them yourself of square section epoxy/glass, spanning across the bilge and laminated with no lack of material or gusto. If you have any keel waggle, these will add structural rigidity. These will make life much, much easier in the long run.
The term sea chest is new to me. Very interesting! Thanks! I'll need to take a closer look for sure :)
After my 40 foot CC Endeavour sunk in the marina after a bronze thu hull failure, I replaced all off the bronze sea cocks with Marelon. Did not regret it at all, so I believe you made a great choice. The electrolysis issue is a big one and can be avoided with these types of sea cocks.
By the way just found your videos a few days ago, and trying to "catch up".... Greatly entertaining while impressively educational. Wish I had videoed my boat restoration project but then again, when I think of it would have probably taken me 3 times as long to do it all.... so my hat is off to you for your enthusiasm and skill with both a paint brush and video camera.
And I agree with one of your first statements in a early video that this is a great way to make a boat your own.
Bob
All you have to do is ensure that your zincs are maintained. Bronze is superior to any kind of plastic...
@@windborne8795 during normal operation and wear and tear I would agree. However mine happened rapidly in a Marina and no amount of zinc would have changed that. Somehow there was current getting into the water and it ate through the through hole in record time. It would not have done that would have Marlon fitting. I have no regrets putting them in and wouldn't do it again any other way. But yeah I agree make sure your zincs are in good shape.
I really appreciate you making these videos! Keep up the great work on the boat!
Thank you so much :)
Excellent video again Mads. I think your choice in seacocks makes a lot of sense. sticking with the old school bronze ones is not as practical a choice as it used to be.
Thank you so much, Tony :)
Today I found your channel while boat shopping / planning my desire to live aboard and then proceeded to binge-watch your videos all day... WOW! I'm pretty shocked, and might have seen them all! lol WOW again! Unfortunately, I was too distracted to "thumbs up", but it probably goes without saying that I enjoyed your videos. Maybe I'll remember to "thumbs up" them on the next pass through lol. Keep it up!
Hehe, a thumbs up is nice but it's even better knowing that you've enjoyed the videos. Thank you for your lovely comment :) If you think you might enjoy living aboard you should definitely go for. Best decision I've ever made! :)
Good choice in seacocks. I saw a video where they tested the Maralon seacock/ballvalve and the brass broke at around 400 ft/lbs of torgue where the Maralon stretched and deformed but never broke or failed. The Maralon is fair superior in my book! Good choice, new times mean new products and they're slightly cheaper too! Good Job! Bill S.
I'm a huge fan of that RodeLink. I've used it a lot on my videos I shoot for the U.S. Navy and I love it- bonus, it's truly 'worldwide' and has no interference or licensing issues even in Japan, where most UHF-based wireless lavs do have problems.
I've also used one of these: www.ebay.com.au/itm/Saramonic-SR-AX100-2-Channel-3-5mm-1-8-Mixer-Audio-Adaptor-Interface-for-DSLR-/161958294423
You can find them on your local amazon, most likely, that's just the first one that popped up on google! It will make balancing your channels from the RodeLink and the VideoMic Pro much easier.
Awesome! Thanks for the advice I'll give the a SR-AX100 try :) Soon I'll need to get a cage for my GH4 ;)
There are other brands and other model numbers that are essentially the same thing, might be cheaper!
One reason I like it is because it means I don't have to bother with a cage as it has multiple cold shoes.
Plastic thru-hulls (as opposed to the actual valve fitting aka seacocks) caused quite a few problems (and sunken boats) back in the day...but modern materials such as marelon have resulted in thru-hulls and seacocks that are arguably superior to the old bronze ones. Bronze absolutely *does* corrode (eventually), as Mads rightly points out. But when it comes to a mechanical valve assembly, I'm going to remain stupidly conservative for the forseeable future. I know its irrational...but as an engineer, when it comes to things like thru-hulls, steering gear, chainplates, rigging, etc...I am going to use the heaviest piece of metal I reasonably can. I've been trained to seek out and destroy the weakest points of systems. Of course, I'm someone who, if properly enabled, would build an entire boat from masthead to keel out of nothing but titanium and paranoia and stratospheric factors of safety, so I'm probably best ignored. I commend Mads for choosing the modern over the traditional...I wish I was so progressive.
I totally get it :) There is a lot to be said for sticking with a material that has stood the test of time :)
As far as I know, nylon does not bond well to fiberglass and mechanically, I wonder if they can be tightened as hard as bronze.
Excellent series of videos. I have been watching since you started working on Obelisk.
Thank you so much! :) I'm honored you've stuck around for that long :)
I (too) have used a composite through-hull after much research and I would recommend their use, especially for heads' outlet valves. I had it done by my local boat yard, which was reluctant to use this 10-15+ year proven technology... strange (but I am happy).
Hi Mads. On the subject of what to do with the hull, this is the advice we have gone with: sand back on the edge of the void a) to create a good bevel for whatever goes back in to stick to and b) to make sure the whole of the void area has been opened up and there is no feathery edge to the ex-blister areas. Clean with acetone. Apply epoxy resin to seal. If the void is deep enough / wide enough, use CSM layers to fill to about 1-2 mm of the the surface area. For quite shallow / small ones, mix your own epoxy filler with shredded CSM bits and colloidal silicate. We then used epiphanes watertight epoxy filler as a faring compound. In both cases we found we could reduce the amount of sanding and re-filling required by putting plastic over the filler / compound. This resulted in a super-smooth finish requiring minimal post-fill sanding and rarely any re-filling to gain the shape of the hull.
Hope this is useful. She's looking fantastic, btw. :)
Solid advice! Thank you so much :) I presume this is Robin :P
+Sail Life Dilly is in charge of all structural work. 😀
Haha :P Wise choice! I'll promote Jökull! ;)
+Sail Life anything to get out of a bit of sanding. We have this weekend to make some progress ourselves. Let's pray it's dry!
Oh god! Just a few days without f***ing rain would be amazing! It's surprisingly a bit difficult to dry out a hull when it's almost raining non-stop ;) I'm crossing my fingers for both of us! :)
Great channel, I was drawn in a lot, I've been watching for a few days, I'm on 177 video 76 remained.)
Greetings from Poland ;)
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to explain your decisions.
Thanks! :)
Just so you know for the future, the boat stand leg that took so long to lower has a two speed option, you were in LOW gear. The shaft that you turn to raise and lower the leg pushes in and out about 30 mm. Look for the same system on every tr;uck chassis to raise and lower the landing gear on the chassis/trailer; you know when a truck is not under the front of the chassis. If the shaft hasn't been shifted in a long while it might need grease/oil.
I know :) I was not able to turn the handle in high gear. Not even with all of my weight on the handle. It did work on the aft leg on the port side, though :) The high gear was very useful! Thanks for making sure I knew about it :)
if you plan to use the non-shifting leg more see if they will grease it.
Good idea :) Thanks :)
Well done Mads.... I really like you product reviews and willingness to try things on the not so beaten path. I have two plastic just seacocks on my cockpit drains that are over 20 years old with no issues. I am about to replace all my seacocks / thru hulls be will need to carefully scrutinize my insurance requirements first..... otherwise I am partial to the new Marine Plastic and the Trudesign with collar looks really interesting.
Thank you so much :) It's super odd how much insurance requirements vary from country to country. Over here there are no need for surveys. You're not required to change your standing rigging and so on. To be honest I haven't checked with my insurance company but I'm 99,9% sure they are fine with either bronze, stainless or composite. You'd think insurances would be similar in for instance Denmark and the UK but that seems to be far from the case. Anywho, I got sidetracked there ;) Trudesign is by far the most commonly used brand around here - bar none :)
Thanks, Steve, for asking the question that was bugging me.
Awesome :) I though there might be a few people out there with the same question :) I spent a fair bit of time contemplating it before asking an old salt :)
All ball valves should be exercised periodically. Probably once every 1-3 month on a boat, along with a spritz of light oil or (silicon on composite)on the outside.
Hi this is Rob one of your subscribers… I know you're super busy and I really love your videos…and as soon as I get finished with my boat projects I would like to start taking my own videos… So, if you have a chance could you please list must have accessories you use with your Go Pro and what Go Pro you prefer to use..?
thank you very much, Rob
Hi Rob :) I haven't used a GoPro for a while so the advice I can offer is a little out of date :) I was very pleased with my GoPro 3+ Black but then again my GoPro 3+ Silver was perfectly fine too. One piece of advice that I can offer is that you record video with "field of view" set to "narrow". That super wide fisheye stuff is only good for high action stuff :) Oh and shot video without having the GoPro in its waterproof case (the case ruins the audio). I hope this helps just a tiny bit :)
Please reply to this comment with a comment. Every comment helps his channel.
That being said, I've learned so much from his attention to detail... although he has said "I'll get back to that in another video"... yeah, lots of dangling plot lines :)
Back to binge watching.
I just wanted to say I really enjoy your videos.
Thank you so much! :) I'm glad you're enjoying the videos :)
Thanks for taking the time to stop working and film the event.
Haha, you use the same "inspection light" that I do! It's also great for side wall illumination when going through tunnels :-)
Haha, very handy! Although I don't see many tunnels :P I remember being shocked by how long some of the tunnels are in your videos. I think I'll prefer the canals to underground cruising :P
When I get round to going down the Grand Union towards London the first thing I have to do is go through the Blisworth tunnel - all 2,813 metres of it!! Cheers
thank you mads for all the great info on thru hulls this video
You're more than welcome! :) Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment :)
Happy to see that you Will use composite 👍 they are used on Many commerciel vessels that I have visit on shipyards around the World... Best choise ever.!!!
And thanks for the video :)
BTW as I told you in the phone, sand/Grit blasting would be a good choise 😄😄😄 but respect for the Big job you have done, its looks great and I am not in doubt regarding the final result, it Will be perfekt.!!!
Hi, Kenneth :) How's your boat coming along? :) I was thinking about stopping by for a quick tiny visit in the not so distant future :) I'm driving down to chat with the guys at Refleks and if I'm not mistaken it would be a huge detour. No date yet but I'll let you know when there is :)
+Sail Life you are welcome to come and look at my project. Just let me know when plan to visit us 😊👍
There are some interesting cut-off dates on this article but I don know if I see all of them center to heart. There is some validity however I will take maintain opinion until I look into it further. Good article , thanks and we want extra! Added to FeedBurner as effectively.
My step-dad lost a 40-foot trawler to a bronze-thru-hull giving up the ghost at the dock. So when I get my boat, I'm going composite or titanium all the way. And I'm going to reduce thru-hulls by joining my piping where-ever reasonably possible.
very informative about the composite seacocks.
Hi Mads, catching up with older video's as I have the time. I'm really nervous about you removing one of the cradle supports without adding a temporary prop (support). I have to do exactly this on my boat (similar cradle to Athena's) next weekend to remove the last of my bottom paint and would never remove a support without adding at least one temporary support (a length of 2x4 and a wedge). I'd hate to see you (or any of your viewers) hurt by a falling boat, especially as it's just a few £'s and 20 seconds to hammer a support into place. Sorry if you think I am worrying about nothing. Love your videos, do keep it up.
Another great and informative video. Good to see you have broken the back of the sanding...for now at least. Totally agree on the composite seacocks. I have the bronze Blakes seacocks on my Rival and it is on my todo or upgrade list and the composite ones are certainly favourite for me. One question I would have is I have wires attached to the seacocks for grounding so not sure where these wires would go if I change them...
Thanks! :) That is an excellent question! It's hard to tell without having a poke around but I suspect the seacocks are simply bonded :) If that is the case then there is no need for that wire after you've switched to composite :) Perhaps there is someone in your yard/marina that can have a look? :) I'd love to hear what they say :)
+Sail Life Hi Mads, okay, I will see what I can find out. Electrics and galvanic action etc is not an area I claim any expertise. I guess I thought the engine was grounded to the seacocks but it may be the other way around or for a completely different reason but I will find out and let you know unless anyone with superior knowledge wants to jump in and explain.
Google had a malfunction!!! LoL. I have no idea how this post was repeated, again and again!
I’m so glad someone finally answered the question about sanding under stands. But, how will you paint under and allow enough cure time?
Wow great video. And I love your editing style. the quick cuts shot to shot are very well thought out and keep he pace up and the content interesting . you have a real natural flair for this kind of film making! As for the work side of things, I wish I could just drop by and help you with the osmosis repair and fairing I've done lots of it both professionally and otherwise. But Im sure you'll do fine. keep up the great work. If you ever plan another trip to B.C Canada give us plenty of warning, we'll go out of our way to connect with you. Tim & Vanessa -Waioli III
Thank you so much! :) Your very kind comment brought a smile to my face :) If you for any reason find yourself in Denmark feel free to stop by I'd love to get some one-on-one advice :) I'll be sure to let you know the next time I'm in BC! :)
I am sure you have told your viewers already, but is the boat your working on your second boat, or just a fix up and sell boat? Thanks, love your videos!
It's my second boat :) For now, atleast. As soon as Athena is back in the water and I've moved aboard Obelix (my old boat) will be up for sale :)
Excellent video! I'm enjoying your channel. Keep up the great work.
Thank you so much :)
I replaced my old 1979 bronze through hull. They were still good but we're not long enought for the new bronze ball valves
HI Mads, good to see that the work on Athena is progressing. Love the way you are documenting and sharing this.I would have chosen composite seacocks too if I had to replace one now. Having seen your sanding and sandblasting adventures, and thinking about the next stage in sanding the far spots; could you comment on the environmental issue of sanding/sandplasting in the open air ?Good luck with your projects.Eelco
Lovely clear video. just right. Thank you.
Sanding fiberglass is one of the least favorite jobs that is for sure. I have found that if a helper holds a yard blower and blows the dust in the direction the wheel is moving the particles it makes the job much more pleasant. Of course it blows the dust all over everywhere so you have to be in a location that is not affected by fiberglass dust.
One of your better. Thanks!
Thank you so much :)
When you continue the work and need to lover the supports, then tie a rope from a bollard down to the cradle, on the opposite side ;-) .
I noticed that the wheels are per-truing quite a bit, so if you tie close to the wheel there will be a minimum of side force from the rope.
Informative videos, and god luck.
Hmm, I realised not every one analyses ropes and beams as vector diagrams.
If the rope is attached to the cradle "inside" of the fastening point on board, the boat may move side-wise, how much depends on the situation. I just tock for granted that every body would realise this.
I would tie to the "wheels" and use wooden props, the later are prone to slide so double securing is advised. Better than props would be two "tripods", connected together.
Great Job as always Mad's....".
Thanks! :)
Mads, As always, Well Done!
Thanks! :)
Nothing wrong with composite seacocks,as long as one buys a known brand. Same goes for bronze ones too !
I feel the exact same way :) Low-quality bronze is just as bad as low-quality composite
well done as always
Thanks! :)
Thanks Mads
You're more than welcome :)
I just realized today, and I have been watching you for some time. Your English has had a remarkable improvement. you are now extremely comfortable. Any specific catalyst that facilitated this?
Thanks
Thanks! I'm still struggling to find the exact words I want to use from time to time but overall my English has improved :) I haven't really done anything out of the ordinary. The only thing that has changed over the last two years is that I've started uploading these videos :)
Sanding in US boatyards, at least in the Puget Sound area, must be performed by tools that collect dust at the HEPA level. That is, a collection rate of over 99%.
Wallace Grommet looks like Denmark is the land of the free when it comes to DIY
I had to put a condom on my boat to do any sanding or scraping at a well known Tacoma yard
A well known Tacoma yard? It had to be Hylebos. Modutech or Narrows. BTW, I've found Modutech the best yard for DIY WORK.
It does look like the moon. Thanks
Those transmissions on the boat legs have 2 speeds. Push shaft all the way in for one speed, and pull shaft to engage outer gear for faster speed.
Yep you are right! Once the load is off the higher speed can wind it down fast... oh well maybe Mads needed the exercise! ; )
The guy that build the stand pointed that out to me :) Otherwise I wouldn't have known :) Both gears worked fine on the port side. Sadly on the starboard side, only the low gear is working. I tried putting it in high gear and I wasn't able to move the handle at all (even tried both directions).
+Sail Life that's horrible! But, on the bright side, makes for good video and a good workout! ;)
love all yer videos thanks for making them
Hi Mads! Great video again. Can't wait for the next one. I think I have seen all your videos. One question though; did you like the Turnigy H Action Cam?
the problem of broken handles is nothing new it results from the ball in the valve getting gunked up over time and freezing in place. work your seacocks a few times every 2 months and forget broken handles. btw this isnt a bad thing to do even for bronze ones. its a good thing you like boat projects Mads and are good at them, buying an older boat always means tons of work. have you considered using a manifold for your thru hulls? thats the route i went. never have to remember where the stupid thing is if it starts leaking.
Dang it! I should have mentioned that in the video - was in my notes :) I've been opening and closing all the seacock aboard Obelix a couple of times on the first Saturday every month for the last two years :) I like the idea of a manifold! The big issue aboard Athena is going to be access. It's going to be very difficult to run the tiny fuel line for the Refleks stove let alone 38mm sanitary hose.
LOL SO typical....they engineer things for 6 armed monkeys not humans. i loved the mainfold after i finished it...only ONE inlet thruhull. far as the sewer line....have you looked into composting toilets? mine turned out to be a great investment and im sure they are much better today than 30 years ago. keep the great videos comming...they are comforting to an old ex sailior
I was super hooked on the idea of a composting toilet about a year ago. Turns out they are not allowed here in Denmark. Odd because they are rather common in Sweeden and Norway (at least I believe they are). The reason I'm not allowed to use a composting toilet is because I can't dispose of the waste in a "proper manner" (according to the Danish Ministry of Environment ) *sigh*
WOW we over here think of all the scandinavian countries as so progressive... i installed it in the mid to late 80's after the 2nd or 3rd rebuild of my marine head. and im sure the technology is light years ahead of where it was.
When life gives you lemons, extort life for even more lemons! ;)
Great video series.
Og det er satme en soed hund (y)
Loving the videos keep them up.
usually a boat yard has portable stands you can out up next the the one your are dropping, lot safer that way.
i just did my seacocks and composite seacocks are not cheaper than bronze, they're about the same price. Also what you are showing isn't a seacock, it's a thru hull fitting with a ball valve attached.
just curious mads........weren't you looking to get the hull dry out........isnt shooting high pressure water at the hull just driving the water deeper into the hull?
Actually, a lot of people will tell you that in order to dry out the hull you'll first need to wash it daily for several weeks. They claim that this will get rid of some hydrophilic compounds in the laminate that would otherwise keep it from drying out. I have absolutely no idea if that is correct or not :P
how about a using a composting head and getting rid of some of those seacocks?
Most MOBILE composting heads do not really compost. Instead they are "batch" toilets that get the composting process started yet to become completely degraded to soil, the material needs to leave to toilet and be placed into a composting bin of some sort. In other words, most composting toilets just make for poop in the garbage stream. In the past few years many municipalites are passing ordinances against tossing human excrement into garbage recepticals. Unless you have a seperate composting bin to go along with your composting toilet...you are sending poop to the landfill. As wonderful as the composting toilet idea seems...it is causing problems.
Hey Mads why don´t you record the audio to 2 different channels? Putting 2 Mics on the same channel seems to me not a very good idea because the different phases of the signals would lead to extiction and overemphasizing of the signals (? don´t know if I found the right words for that)...
Can't wait to see the hull fairing. I've done cars for paint, but nothing like this. Do you spot fill the voids and sand them flush, or do you have to do the entire surface? Is it just epoxy, or is there some especially salty compound that's more appropriate?
It's mostly spots I'll need to fair. Some big spots and tons of tiny ones. It'll be a fun and challenging experience I'm sure :) You're spot on that epoxy is used :) The epoxy is thicker with various products - in my case I'll be using West System 407 and 410.
Why not use Acroprops or other similar supports (e.g. wooden braces) to ensure that the boat does not shift?
Madds hi
seacocks plastic Yes i have used them with good results. my only consideration is this some insurances insist that you have bungs on board should your seacock fail the wooden ones you can by will split the seacock even more so i would make your own bungs with choking cotton wrapped around and covered in some sticky goo which is kept in a zip lock bag near to the seacock in which it will be used along with a piece of sail cloth and jubilee clip to put over the whole thing and tighten together
as they say prepare for the failure and hopefully you will never need it
fairing the hull drop me a line and i will impart what i know for you to use throw away or otherwise pete
use a 6" wide spatula or scraper when faring ,cover more area quicker!
nice video, I'm getting ready to replace the seacocks and thruhulls on my boat SV Elusive. How are those "plastic" ones holding up these days?
Good info. thanks
You're more than welcome :) I'm glad you found the video useful :)
Madds also try to get rid of as many through hulls as you can if you can use one through hull with a seacock going to a small manifold that you can take 2 hoses off great , just food for thought
Solid advice Peter! Thanks :) I don't think I can really eliminate too many thru hulls without getting into some unfortunate situations. For now, I'm considering glassing over the hole where the salt water intake for the gally was located. I won't need it before I untie the lines for good in about 5 years :)
ok give me a shout if and when you need advice/ help on fairing hull etc
A lot of similar "plastic" goes into the worlds most trusted firearms. Especially those Austrian ones. ;) good enough for them, good enough for me.