How To Re-Grease Sealed Bearing. Easy Way, No Tools, No Disassembly
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- How To Re-Grease Shielded Bearing. Easy Way, No Tools, No Disassembly. Closed Bearing Greasing. How To Repack Sealed Bearing With Grease without Disassembly
#ballbearing #sealedbearing #shieldedbearing #re-grease #repackbearing
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CHAPTERS
0:00 Intro
0:15 How to close center hole
1:07 Plastic bag and grease
2:35 How to push grease through the bearing
3:22 Cleaning
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Tags
How To Re-Grease Shielded Bearing. Easy Way, No Tools, No Disassembly. Closed Bearing Greasing. How To Repack Sealed Bearing With Grease
re-grease bearing, shielded bearing, grease sealed bearing, easy way to grease closed bearing, how to pack sealed bearing, grease no disassembly, repack closed bearing, disassembly shielded bearing, how to pack shielded bearing no disassembly, no disassembly sealed bearings, no disassembly repack bearing, diy no disassembly bearings, repack bearing no tools, fast grease sealed bearing, ball bearing no disassembly grease, regrease it no disassembly
How To Re-Grease Shielded Bearing. Easy Way, No Tools, No Disassembly. Closed Bearing Greasing. How To Repack Sealed Bearing With Grease
re-grease bearing, shielded bearing, grease sealed bearing, easy way to grease closed bearing, how to pack sealed bearing, grease no disassembly, repack closed bearing, disassembly shielded bearing, how to pack shielded bearing no disassembly, no disassembly sealed bearings, no disassembly repack bearing, diy no disassembly bearings, repack bearing no tools, fast grease sealed bearing, ball bearing no disassembly grease, regrease it no disassembly - Навчання та стиль
Don't confuse seals with shields. You can easily do what you demonstrate here with a bearing that has shields but not so easily with one that has seals. I generally carefully remove the seals or shields and wash out the old dried up or contaminated grease, then hand pack the bearing before reinstalling seals or shields. Also, over packing a high speed bearing can result in the grease over heating as well as excess drag and load on the prime mover, making it work harder.
How do you remove and reinstall shields and seals without damaging?
@ya472 I use an ice pick or something similar, Hope this helps
@@speedfreak8200 Thank you. I watched a couple other videos and people were doing the same... I do not know why I missed this technique after 50 years, playing with equipment. I was afraid of damage. I did drill a hole and used a injection needle for a couple, but this wasn't ideal.
The bearing here IS a sealed bearing. Seals are to keep grease in, so obviously grease can get in thru seal with a bit of movement and pressure.
Dental pick. There is an industry-standard on how much grease you put back in by percentage. Depending on rpm/application, you can easily put too much grease inside.
Good tip for extending the life of a used bearing if you don't have or need a new one. There is a lot of comments on this video with people being technically correct and technically perfect and I'm sure their information is well-intentioned maybe even correct. But I think this video portrays a quick simple cost-effective method of extending the life of a used bearing or getting extra grease into a new one as the manufacturers never ever grease a bearing enough. Good on you for posting this.
Thank you for understanding the idea of the video. Of course, it's better not to lubricate the bearing for important machines and mechanisms. But sometimes this is cheap and reliable way to revive a bearing.
Regardless of whether anyone disagrees with this method, I already did it on the bearings of my homemade 2x36 belt grinder (I have it here on UA-cam). The result was excellent, I am very satisfied, in my country the bearings are too expensive. Thank you very much for your contribution, greetings from Ecuador 🇪🇨
I have always reused sealed bearings on various projects where tolerances aren't a huge importance, I have always carefully pulled a seal, that video right there is gold
That way you can clean the old grease , before applying new grease, makes sense to me.
There's just one CRITICAL problem with doing this, the old grease is still in there. Grease, is a combination of oil (which does the actual lubrication) and its suspended in soaps, clays, emulsifiers and sometimes even PTFE/TEFLON to delay the release of that oil. Why does that matter? If you do this to a bearing without removing the old grease first, you are certainly filling the inside with more than the recommended 1/3 of available void space inside the bearing. Over greased bearings 'burn up' extremely quickly so anything spinning more than a couple rpm isn't going to last very long at all and will sieze when the bearing race welds itself to the inner and outer race. What do I know? I'm the guy who had to write the procedure book to relubricate ball bearings for one of the 4 businesses that are ISO certified to do it in the continental United States. I also had to painstakingly create another book with the correct milligram fill amounts for each size of bearing from a half dozen different manufaturers depending on the specific gravity of the grease being used, there are thousands of different greases out there with their own unique properties.for specific applications and operating conditions.
Like a commented to another person here, I've only been hearing about packing a smaller amount of grease in bearings, for instance vehicle wheel bearings, for the last few years but when I was in auto mechanics class in high school in the mid 80s we were taught to hand pack the bearings all the way around until grease oozed out of the other side. Of course this was after the old grease was cleaned out but even wheel bearing grease packing tools you find in automotive stores are designed to fill the bearings all the way. My question is why was it the general practice to fill wheel bearings full of grease for many many years but lately the practice is to only partially fill them but it just dawned on me that were talking about different types of bearings here. Wheel bearings, the older type, like you'd find on the front spindle of a rear wheel drive, are open and not shielded or sealed so as to be able to shed any grease that it doesn't need whereas a shielded or sealed bearing doesn't really have a way of doing that and therefore is pretty much forced to hold the amount of grease that is packed in.
Is this correct?
Yes, that was my first thought, did he clean out the old grease. Can you explain why an over greased bearing will "burn up"?
I needed to replace the front bearing on the motor of a dewalt table saw and the rear bearing was good but it was dry. I was able to pop the seal off the back side of the bearing with an Xacto knife. I used carburetor cleaner with a straw and blasted everything out and got it really clean. The seal also snapped right back in place. There are a lot of grease's that are not compatible so that can be an issue if you don't clean it out. I did do research first and found out that you cannot use a moly based grease on electric motor bearings. You are supposed to use polyurea based grease on electric motor bearings. I'm glad I checked before I greased it.
@@actionjksn Interesting 👍
Did you find out why you aren't supposed to use a moly based grease on electric motor bearings?
@bodeine454 you would have to remove Seals from both sides to allow the old grease to be forced out
Two things wrong here. First, many greases are incompatible with each other, best to fully clean out the old before applying a new product. If the bearing has rubber seals, most are quite easy to pry off without damaging them. Second, by forcing the new grease in one side until it comes out the other, you are over-filling the bearing with grease. In a high rpm situation it will run hotter and 'churn up' the grease. Only 35-45% of the free space should be filled by grease.
Correct on all points.
I've heard this several times and I believe it but back in the 80s in auto mechanics shop in high school we were taught to clean the old grease out by soaking the bearings in solvent, kerosene in our case, and the hand packing the bearing by pressing the edge of the bearing in a dollop of grease on our palm until the grease comes out of the other side. We did this and turned the bearing as we went until the bearings were completely filled with grease. Bearing greasing tools also fill the bearing completely with grease and over the years most everyone that I ever saw pack grease in wheel bearings completely filled them so I'm confused about why it was deemed the proper way to grease a wheel bearing but over the last few years I keep hearing that it's actually bad. So why is packing bearings full of grease just recently being deemed as bad when for many many years it was considered the proper way to do it? 🤔
Sealed bearings are the concern for overfilling. Wheel bearings are fully packed, but the space between the bearings is not, so the bearing will purge the excess. A sealed bearing will also burp out excess grease, but it can get hot before it does, and can degrade the grease and the seals.
@@johnmeeson822 This dawned on me not long after I commented and that makes perfect sense. 👍
Much less than 35-45%! That amount refering to filling amount of a bearing housing, like SKF SNA. Filling of the bearing shown estimates to a couple of grams. To much grease in the bearing will lead to overheating, and the grease softening, and leaks out, which will lead to seizure.
On most sealed bearings one of the seals is removable and it just pops right out. You need to use something like brake cleaner with a straw and clean it out before greasing it. The seal pops right back in after you're done.
If you are doing the bearing on an electric motor you can NOT use wheel bearing grease or it will destroy the bearing. The grease that is required for electric motor bearings is polyurea based. It will say on the container if it is polyurea based and the grease will be either blue or green. Moly based grease cannot be used on electric motor bearings. I found that Lucas X-Tra grease says that it is polyurea based and they have it at auto parts stores. It's grean and it's been working fine, but most of it is blue.
I did extensive research on this before I greased the bearing on my very old DW-744 DeWalt table saw. I had to replace the front bearing but the rear bearing was perfectly good but it was bone dry. It had a seal on the back side made of nylon or plastic and I popped it out with an exacto knife. I cleaned it out with brake cleaner and used the exacto knife like a spatula to put grease in it and the seal snapped right back in place. I was able to do it without removing the bearing so it made the job a lot easier. The rear bearing would have been more difficult to remove than the front one. The front bearing gets most of the wear.
Some bearings have a metal seal on both sides and I don't know if those are removable. But usually one side is some sort of synthetic material like nylon or some type of plastic. Those seals are easily removable.
Hey thanks i learned alot from you.
what the reason for the grease not being ok on electric motors
@@khg8519 Grease is good for electric motor bearings. The Wrong grease is bad for them, the wrong grease being wheel bearing grease like moly grease. I don't know why it's bad it just has the wrong characteristics. Electric motor bearings turn at a higher RPM than wheel bearings. The right grease is a polyurea based grease. The consistency of the grease also matters, that information can be looked up with a Google search.
I cant understand any reason why the nature of the drive, either electric or otherwise would make any difference in the type of grease that you use. I know of no electric drive tool or product where the drive shaft forms the ground link for the motor. Also in applications where the sealed bearing is exposed to the rain or moisture, prying out the plastic seal with a sharp metal tool of any kind will greatly shorten the life of the grease. The subject video method is by far superior and I cant fathom how you got over 50 thumbs up for that comment.
@@paulg444 So Shell Oil company and every other expert in the field specifies that you should only use a polyuria based grease, and not moly based wheel bearing grease for electric motor bearings, and because you don't understand why you can't use wheel bearing grease on an electric motor bearing, you dispute this fact, as if you have a greater understanding of the subject than actual experts. Yes you know better than all these experts because you are a legend in your own mind.
This right here tells us everything we need to know about you.
And then you come up with this goofy idea that an exacto knife to pop out a nylon seal without damaging it, is going to somehow harm the grease?
All of this and you are oblivious to how dumb you sound. By the way I checked many sources to figure out which grease should be used in the electric motor bearings. I'm not talking about social media and You Tube either I'm talking about real sources. And all these people are totally full of shit because you lack the ability to understand why that is the case.
I got over 60 upvotes because I gave good advice. Hopefully no one is dumb enough to take yours.
Ingenious method but far better to remove seals, give it a proper clean out, regrease and refit seals.
Pull the seals, pack the bearing with the proper grease, and reinstall seals. Much quicker.
Most bearings that I have regreased are because the old grease was dried up and hard, so I like to remove both seals, wash the old grease out and pack it from both sides and the replace the seals. Seems easier than playing with plastic and tape. Uses less grease too. Just a thought.
I love the crowd source as an AI of sorts. Some of you guys have good common sense.
Pull seal out by a knife nose or thin flat screwdriver from inside diameter of the seal ring, not outside!
Works easy, does not damage it. Harder with metal seals, but still works.
Does that grease have Moly in it?? If so, it should NOT be used on rolling bearings, only on sliding surfaces.
One issue i see is grease compatibility. If it is polyurea grease and you mix it with say lithium base they don't mix. Most sealed bearings will use polyurea as it is the best.
It’s a good idea… I always add extra grease into a new bearing, and find that the factory only ever greases one side of the bearing… and no matter how careful you are removing a seal or shield, there is always a chance you will damage it, or put it out of shape… over filling a bearing is not a good idea, but I like to add a little in…. Yeah yeah, you can follow the guidelines and not mix greases, but I’ve never seen a bearing seize or collapse after mixing greases… however, I wouldn’t mix a moly grease and HTBG… but factory grease is never moly… great tip thanks !
Love the thinking and out of the box exploring.
Why would I want to press out a bearing screaming, "please grease me", then reinstall the old bearing?? Once you hear a bearing, the damage is already done. Microscopic flat spots will only enlarged creating more heat no matter how much grease is in there. Because the bearing is not rolling but skidding along the race. The best thing to do is buy a new bearing and replace the old.
This was my point, bearings have a tolerance and they wear. For a shop fan or something, no biggie, for an axle or such, why let a couple dollars risk life and limb? Just because one CAN, doesn’t mean one should.
If it needs new grease, it’s time for a fresh, unworn bearing too. Do it once, do it right…
If you can't obtain a very special bearing or if you are absolutely on a budget, this can give you some extra life. In all other cases it's better to use a new bearing.
😢
You can take the side, shields off those bearings easily and replace them without damaging them, but bearings are so cheap that you can just change them
By cleaning the bearing, you may not need to remove the bearing from the shaft. Plus you don't have to drive to a place that has the bearings, saving time.
Not all bearings are cheap - some are very expensive Ive got a bandsaw the original ones were imperial lucky for me the guy who had it befor me machine the shaft down to take a metric unit 20 nzd instd of 300
Good. But what I do is to lift up the rubber material with a pointed knife the re-pack it with grease. Faster, more practical
That was absolutely brilliant.
Thank you
Between this video and all the comments, I now have a decent background about the regreasing of bearings. Woohoo !!
Title states "no tools". Three tools were used right in front of our eyes. Tape, socket and plastic sheet.
You said no tools and you used a socket but that is a neat idea and thinking out of the box. Thanks for the demonstration.
Remove the seals, a good gasoline wash liquefies and removes any residual grease. Blot dry with shop rags, repack with appropriate quantity and type of grease, reinstall seals.
Brilliant!!!
Thank you!
Simple,easy but brilliant idea😁
Thank you kindly👍
Glad you liked it!
I tried this method, and ended up just eating the grease with the spoon. It wasn't bad.
yes but if the bearing has been out grease for too long regreasing it won't make much difference after the damage is done.
Which is a good reason to remove the seals and clean out the old grease. After the bearing is clean, you can check for damage; and then decide if it can be repacked or needs replacement.
I just slip a grease gun needle in between the inner race and the lip seal and give the gun a pump. It doesn't require very much.
Brilliant ! Well done.
Do this with brand new bearings and the bearings last 4 times longer. It always amazes me how Little Grease is in some brand new bearings
Over greasing a bearing causes heat. You only need about 30% fill.
@@TheBeingReal You're not "wrong", but there is no "magic" number. It has to do with bearing style, use, rpm compared to spec, type of grease, etc. It could be as low as 10% or as high as 66%. Read the Mfr's documents, for your particular bearing and application.
@@tomb816 Grease fill can vary as noted. When you look at catalog rpm ratings, the fill from the factory is to that spec. Over pack the bearing and the grease churn will cause over heating if the grease cannot self purge.
Granted, few applications run bearings near their rated rpm, so over filling may not even be an issue. Mixing incompatible greases will cause failures. Typically poor installation methods, improper maintenance and contamination are the big drivers for bearing failures.
@@TheBeingReal I'm not sure what your point is, exactly. Do you feel the Mfr's specs are incorrect? My response was in direct relation to them. Just stuffing grease into a bearing, which seems to be how the majority of these commentors were taught, is not the correct way. Hence, my comment noting a wide spectrum of fill volumes.
To your comment expanded to include conditions having nothing to do with the correct grease volume. While I don't disagree that what you've stated can cause issues, it's irrelevant.
Simple but effective. Thanks, I'll remember this and use this great idea!
Good & simple,…….. idea ! No damage to the seal / shied,….thanks
Nicely done!
Great job!
Thanks!
Cool trick 👍
Interesting way to go about this. Personally (salt water fishing reels) I like to take the shields off and just grease it often for gear I depend on. Depends on the application but like this method and will try this in the future! Great video!
Thanks!
How do you remove the seal without bending it? - it always bends on me.
Just take the shield off and grease the bearing then put the shield back on
I wish I knew this before thank you.
Well done
I have not read all the comments
But the first lot all gave excellent advice
I have been doing this for more than 40 years
The do not overfill was particularly noteworthy
But follow the recommendations in the comments
At least interesting, when you can not remove the seal from the bearing. Thanks for sharing
I use a used dab syringe with a flattened tip inserted in between the inside race and seal . thank you
That's awesome
Genius!
well done.
I popped the cover on one side of brand new bearing 's to ad more grease to it the manufacturer somehow didn't apply enough before packing them. I use extreme condition grease it hasn't failed me yet. You should make a video on how to tap new bearing 's into there hub, not everyone has access to a bearing press & as for the trick of a threaded rod with washers & nut's isn't worth crap the washers deforme, i used a peice of 4x4 stock to drive it into place with a hammer. Let's just say you will need oil & grease to fit them in.
It worked ok, preparation is a little bit long with tape and plastic and a bit of wasted grease. I will still use my pick tool to remove the seals and grease these bearings though.
❤ Good 💡.
Hay guys, the easiest way is to buy the needle tip for grease guns, no mess, no waste . His way is if you're stuck in the jungle or desert mile's from help.
If I were going to attempt this, which I wouldn't b/c you don't grease sealed bearings, I would just use my bearing greaser. (It looks like two plastic cones on a threaded shaft with a grease fitting on the end. You place the bearing on the bottom cone, screw the top cone down on top it, and use a grease gun to force the grease into the bearing.)
Good idea. I will probably try to repeat it. Thanks.
I'd clean out the old grease first and be wary of overfilling the bearing.
Cool, bro 😉
Very cool
wasome,great to no.thank you sir
There’s an inexpensive tool for that. Grease sealed bearings is NEVER a good idea, UNLESS, the bearing is compromised and needs to be replaced any way. To limp it trough a task go ahead and grease em but if you got it off/out your wasting time and money. DO NOT TRY THIS ON NEW BEARINGS!!! 50 years of Ag and heavy duty wrench pulling taught me a lot.
The idea is unique but in 50 years of wrenching I’ve had 1 instance where I did it BUT used the tool made for it. Takes maybe 30 seconds wifi the right tool.
Well Done
As a bearing engineer taught me take a . 010 feeler gauge and pop the seal out clean and blow out the old grease.
I use a large hypodermic needle and syringe from farm supply. Slip it in edge of flexible seals. Best with warm grease. If it's a hard shield pry it open to get access.
exactly,see my comment, been doing this for decades on my Ducati...bearings perfect everytime i change the tyres (5-7000kms)
Thank you guys!
If you have to remove the bearing may as well replace it with a new one that has zero wear on it
Need pop shield off using pick from the gap you showed clean old grease out acetone so on and re grease and put shield back in the old grease make not alot of the new grease enter
Now the isse is, if grease can enter the bearing so easily this way while working ina water pump there is strong possibility that water toocanget into the bearing. So the purpose of seal is lost?
Did you make a tiny hole on the seal or give a slight lift on the seal to get the grease in ?
Fair question, but the water seal may be distinct from the bearing. Though the machinery I worked on would almost be an antique now.
I have replaced thousands of beaing the best way is just pop of the shield and only put a small amount of grease to much will destroy the bearing
Never ever fill with grease more than 25 to 30 percent of the empty space in the bearing. With this method, 100 percent of the empty space in the bearing is packed with grease. This will overheat the bearing and resultant popping off, of the seal. Removing both side seals/shields is the only option to grease the bearing with the right amount of grease. The other issue is that one should never mix old grease with new grease, even if they are from the same manufacturer and same grade of grease. The base oil, wear additive and thickener will likely be different. Always clean off the old grease before repacking with fresh grease. To do this, we will have to remove the seal and some cases steel shields in some type of bearings. This method is good as a stop gap arrangement.
OK the best method put grease & bearing into a clean tin can, heat grease to desolve then let grease solidify, the easiest & best packed bearing gained.
I would buy new ones for the most part but good trick for in a pinch or the apocalypse
Hot dam awesome
That is really a great idea, thank you.
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks 💯
Sealed bearings r usually two inches or smaller and do not get greased they get thrown away. Think a little bit. The fearing must be pulled off the shaft and reinstalled. It’s cheaper to replace it. I have worked on many small idlers and it’s way faster and cheaper
you could warm the grease put the bearing into a grease bath - I had a container that you would heat on the stove put the bearing into - cant remember the name it was for chains and bearings
All of this to grease a bearing which was specifically designed to not require being greased, since its designed to be replaced.
This is very helpful with bearings sealed with metal ring
This is going about it the hard way
What is so difficult about popping the seal off and manually packing?
If the grease is gone or dry inside the bearing the bearing should be replaced. Bearings are not expensive. Repairing the equipment that gets destroyed when they fail is. Thats how I earn a living as a 38 year machinist. Repairing equipment damaged because someone failed to change bearings on a regular schedule.
Interesting lathe can you make a video about it?
South Bend lathe (9x36). I think it's older than my grandmother :))
The lathe is there to make it look like he is inteligentl.
What material did he use to fill the socket hole?
It's called "cellophane tape". It's been around since before we were all born. Most well-known brand is "Scotch".
Good demonstration of poor bearing seals.
)) Thanks
I heat oil in a syringe in very hot water, slide the needle into where seal meets metal and pump gease in.front bearings have done 110kms and are perfect..simples2 mins per bearing. Syringe plus hypodermic needle, 20 Centimos.
ensaya 110,000kms
For something inconsequential, like a fan , a starter motor shaft bearing or such, ok. For anything that actually takes a load or is safety related, NO.
Bearings wear, this doesn’t address wear. If a fan were to last a little longer and the bearing fail, no harm no foul.
BUT people will always push too far, like wheel bearing etc, where tolerances and wear are crucial.
Use good judgment and common sense, don’t let your tight wallet get someone killed.
Warning, bearings should only be about 30%packed. Too much grease causes what engineers call “churning “ . Bad. Can overheat and also cause drag
very impressive thank you for sharing
Cool Beans, Man. I like it !!
You probably don't know what grease was in there before so you can't predict the compatibility of the old grease thickener with the new grease thickener - that's Number 1.
Number two is that bearings are very seldomly 100% full of grease and since very little of the old grease came out you've simply overgreased the bearing. That'll lead to churning and overheating of the grease.
UA-camrs like this play to those that don't understand the purpose or science of sealed bearings. Everything you stated is what I have learned from others. We had a large 3 phase 75 hp electric motor that ate the bearings despite it being greased faithfully. According to the rebuilder it was greased too faithfully. I learned about this from him.
What i did is removed the seal, put some grease then returning the cover seal again..easy.
you can also put some grease in the bottom of a metal can and heat it till it liquefies and drop the bearing in , ive done this with shielded bearings .
With rubber seals i just remove them and grease them by hand
Dang it , how expensive is a new bearing?
Neat idea!
How to Grease seal bearings,GET A NEW ONE,now you pass the test.😎
Nice tip, well done.
Thanks 👍
Why wouldn’t we just put in a new bearing instead. After all it’s considered a non-serviceable item.
Brilliant...
Helicopter pilot/mechanic....this is the hard way....we use a hypodermic needle and slightly dull the blade with 320 sand paper so it doesn't cut the seal....
so much easier to remove seal then grease
I never put new grease in a used bearing, I throw them and put in a new. They don't cost mutch.
What happened to the old grease?
It went to grease heaven...
@@DL101ca No, its still in there.
Thanks ))
Genius.
Thank you!
Or remove seal 🦭 and grease it then push seal back
That’s clever.👍