I avoided watching this sooner as I didn’t want to influence my own review. But turns out I had little to worry about…. I feel like we literally said the same thing…. Another fantastic review Vogman! Let’s hope this is the first of a new start for Anycubic!
I'm not so sure about that. I can't seem to get printers off them anymore. If I get them, they're broken or so far passed release date that my reviews pointless. Maybe they're avoiding me 😁
@ I’ll admit myself. Comms has been different this year. I’m constantly chasing. My contact. Let me mention next time I speak to her. But you do a great job and I always look forward what you say. Even when we don’t agree, I love having your view to consider as you often think of things I don’t.
I don't know if you were reviewing at the time of Mathieu, but there was a guy on the ball. Grafter. Got it 100% right. Like you say, this year has been... different 😉 And we shouldn't agree all the time. We like different things. We eat different meals, etc. What matters is we both strive for honesty. There's far too many yes-men reviewers already. Take care buddy 😁😁😁👍👍👍
@ so… I met Matthieu this week at FormNext!!! And yeah he’s a legend. He’s at Sunlu now! And I miss him and Anycubic And yep. I even agree with your statements about disagreeing! Lol
I run my printers in their own purpose built wooden cabinets/enclosures with a digital temp controlled space heater to keep the ambient air temps around the printers to 30c . I also preheat the resin tank with a small cake style heat gun before starting prints. I basically look for the viscosity to change by watching the waves generated by the hot air blowing into the resin only takes a couple of mins with a forced air heatgun much faster I assume than these passive heating elements built into the tank tray. The heat gun also has the added benefit of instantly removing air bubbles from the resin. Its been a really a good combo for me with my 3 Anycubic Mono6Ks printers running around the clock 7 days a week. I also have digital thermometers monitoring the ambient air temp around the printers. I assume I would do the same process even if I purchased one of these auto tank heater printers. I don't really have time to wait for the machines to do their slow motion automatic nonsense. My Formlabs Form 2 did the same heater nonsense and it took longer than Id like especially in the winter months. If the heated tank on this printer was a thing that kept running during a print then this feature might have some use to me. Would surely be more efficient than using an automatic space heater. All these bells and whistles justify these printer companies charging all this extra money while really not adding much value to the final product. Id like to see major improvements to the screen and speed of these printers. They kinda fake it with their speed numbers by having all these caveats and conditions to achieve them. Also the screen res seems pretty low for a higher end resin printer in this class. Thanks for your videos VOG Man very no bs straight to the point. I find many resin printer guy reviews are all just oh wow and clickbait or random tangents about things that arent important.
@@vogman Thanks for taking the time to replay and for the excellent review. I also asked over on J3D Tech video and he believes it heats throughout. This seems to be the case based on his tests, but is contradicted by the store page. I guess if it works, it works, however it works!
Everything seems to suggest pre-heat to me. It even calls itself pre-heat. I wish it did heat throughout, but I think like Uniformation and Phrozen, Anycubic are expecting the screen and chemical reactions to keep things warm. Personally I don't think that's enough.
@@vogman I'm still using your original heater design, and it works great. As it's totally independent of the printer, I have it on a wireless remote, so my Alexa sets it going 30 mins before I need to print. It would also be nice if printers could have an autostart, so when powered up, it will automatically start a print. I used J3D's "Quick mix" routine to give the resin a good stir before running an actual print.
@@vogman I suspect this is down to power issues. Heaters suck juice, which would also explain the mains power cable instead of an external PSU. I would guess the machine is not rated to run a print AND heat it as it would draw too much current and probably go bang / explode / upset the space/time continuum.
What I love is that some of us have been begging for heaters for a while now, and in their marketing video Anycubic are showing the heating system and saying, "Enhancing success rate." Yes, Anycubic, we know. That's why we've been building our own heaters and asking you guys to address this issue 🤣😂🤣
I love the large build volume and while we always want more resolution, 47 micron resolution is enough for me. I make functional prints and I'd buy a printer in this class for small scale manufacturing. I'd typically prefer manual resin filling rather than the complexity of a resin pump but I can definitely see the advantage of swapping bottles in a production environment, probably with some way to drain the dregs of the previous bottle into the new bottle. Vat heating to a thermostatically controlled temperature would be a big win for manufacturing consistency but preheating and then shutting off the heater to allow the resin temperature to vary throughout the print is of very limited use to me. What was Anycubic thinking? I'd prefer a temperature controlled chamber heater to provide a consistent environment, even if I needed to make my own, with a warming box for the next bottle of resin. I make functional parts and do not want the time wasting hassle and resin waste from a support structure. I often have a large build plate contact area and large cross section while printing and that can cause excessive pull force on the film. For a large format printer like this, the tilting resin tray of the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra is almost a requirement for print success and film longevity. Monitoring the pull force and displaying it is nice but ultimately does me no good. I'd much prefer a tilting tray to reduce the pull force.
If they release M7 Max with higher resolution so I can get 25-30um details im gone buy it asap. I already have the M7 Pro but I would love to make larger functional prints so I can actually get prints with good layer adhesion in all directions and that look like injection molding parts and not continue to use my Creality K1 Max ( I don't mind if put more work to get better quality parts that fit exactly and can actually print intricate models with no problem). I don't want to buy GK3 Ultra cause it's way to expensive and also it doesn't have intelligent release which is a really nice feature if you want to get fast, dimensional acurate and insanelly detailed print parts (abs-like and though new generation resins ftw :P).
thank you for the video! my elegoo jupiter 6k broke recently and replacing the broken part would be over 300€ so im considering changing to the m7 max. would you say the extra 400€ is worth the upgrade from a used jupiter to a new m7 max or am i better off saving that money and continuing with my elegoo? thank u
you can see the lines caused by the ACF I would change that to fep of somekind that frosting of that AFC is just a deal breaker. good thing you can change it yourself but I wished it was an option to just buy form them at the start.
Let's see what Elagoo has in store for their future Jupiter Ultra. Wouldn't mind a square 50 micron pixel size as long as the build volume is 35x20x35 cm about 25 liter (comparable to Form 4L). About force sensing athena was not the first to implement as there were other commercial dental printers which had them already. Elagoo Saturn 4 Ultra and Mars 5 Ultra too have force sonsors. Personanally, I feel the tilting vat tank is a killer featrure especially for tall (Z axis) prints 25 cm and above. What I would love to see in future Elagoo Jupiter Ultra would be some design inspirations from UniF GK3 like the resin filling systen, the build plate latching and leveling mechanism design. Also I wish they (Elagoo) add LAN port, SD card slot, chamber light, integrated dc power supply, UPS for safe shut down and auto restart resume print function. Thanks for the review and keep up the good work.
For the functional prints and small scale manufacturing on large format resin printers, the tilting tray to reduce film pull force is THE feature I want more than any other.
Personally I do, yes. Companies are taking the stance of pre-heat and let the screen and chemical reactions keep the resin warm. I think a cold environment will eventually chill that.
Hi looking to buy my first resin printer for lost casting was wondering if you could help me and point me in the right direction for wax printing jewellery i was thinking saturn ultra 4 what would you recommend thanks
No, there's no auto-level here. It should come from the factory pre-levelled, but that doesn't always happen. Paper levelling is easy enough and something I cover in this video ua-cam.com/video/N0Ab07LRWBg/v-deo.html Once levelled, you shouldn't need to do it again until you change you FEP. I hope this helps 😁
Leveling a resin printer is stupidly easy, and takes only a minute to do manually. If done right, it's something you would only do like... once a year? So don't worry about it!
I seem to have bought my printer just before all these heaters and pumps etc came out. The phrozen mighty 4K isn’t even that old. Only way I can add is by modding the case or cover and adding diy heaters etc. Not worth updating yet. I think I’ve only really used it 10times as I couldn’t get resin warm enough to work properly in the setup I had. plus the mess - which is far far worse than FDM.
Resin printers are messy. It's an unfortunate fact. But you can get a pretty cheap heater and / or enclosure that will really benefit your printing. Have a look at this video ua-cam.com/video/SZW9vBppQ-A/v-deo.html
I'm torn if i should get this printer. I "only have a Anycubic Mono 2 atm, and it kinda does it's job printing the wargaming miniatures i need. I live in Denmark, so the temperature in my isolated shed is 8-10degrees C atm, which is too cold. I'm running with no heater and that obiviously creates some issues. If only the screen would have been atleast 10k, it would have been an instant buy from my part. I would not mind an extra 100-200USD for that. As always, great video VogMan!
In terms of print quality, the M7 is a tiny step backwards from your Mono 2, but you wouldn't really notice the difference, other than have a MUCH bigger build plate 😁 As for your temperature, you really need a heater. Check out this video ua-cam.com/video/SZW9vBppQ-A/v-deo.html
I like the build plate drip hooks and the premixing script, things that should have become standard a long time ago I do understand that past a point screen resolution is just marketing hype, but I would have liked just a little bit lower than 46 microns, like 30 microns
Without magnification, it's hard to tell differences in print quality past a point, I agree, and I also agree that 46 microns is about 20 microns too far off that ideal point. I think Anycubic should have put a bigger screen into this and then they would have had a real winner. People love the GK3 Ultra but it's a lot more expensive. Anycubic could have really grabbed this market.
I'd love to see them release a better screen later on (like what Uniformation did with the GK Two upgrade to 10k). I consider buying this machine but the screen worries me quite a lot.... I consider to go for M7 Pro (much better pixel density) instead but still.... I kinda like what I see here (except the screen of course).
Apart from the screen, it seems like a premium machine. I've seen some prints online and the quality, with AA on, is impressive for a 7K screen. The GK 3 Ultra would be ideal but it is also more expensive and still in "pre-order" status. I don't know if it can print miniatures but for larger prints and at this price, the M7 max seems to be quite good.
I was waiting for gk3 but seams they have a lot of problems with early batches, broken printers, defects etc. Isn't there anything else on the market that has the same or bigger build volume with decent resolution. This new m7 is not good enough.
some nice new features, but no reason to update my current M3 Max machines. How could they NOT swap the display for either a larger format or at least a better resolution?? this sucks, i was waiting for this machine but i think i am gonna skip this one, at least until my M3 MAX starting to die.
Very true... it just shouldn't be necessary. The printing community is full of smart people that can figure out workarounds, but ideally the printer companies should get it right themselves 😁
It feels like we're getting to a plateau with resin printer features - high resolution, high speed, sturdy construction, heaters and force measurements... I'm not sure what else I could ask for. What new features would you hope to see on printers in 2026?
I'm genuinely surprised by Anycubic here. After the GK3 Ultra I expected all the companies to offer bigger screens on their Large printers. So I guess we'll see that early next year. Whilst Anycubic have nodded towards force technology, they are taking baby steps where Athena was trying to leap, so I guess in time that's what we'll see... because in theory force technology can determine it's own resin settings 😁
I agree with the exception of construction. Construction on many printers has been going backwards with flimsy garbage parts. I have a Saturn 2. Pretty solid construction but iffy print success. I hot a Photon Mono 2. Cheap price and great prints but self destructed after about 25 prints. A gear stripped out in the base somewhere. Dead. I've been researching the Saturn 4 and Mars 5 and Ultras. Lots of units with various parts failing after very little use. I'll pass on this technoligal marvel with crap construction. I want a solid and reliable machine that will print hundreds of plates with no mechanical failures over top notch resolution and then dying in 2 months.
Do i understand the M7 Max is nothing but a M3 max with a resin heater and automatic filling system?? And a flip cover?? If yes, i would rather stay with the M3. An automatic filling system is a decent feature but i can imagine it is a nightmare to clean.
There's some small enhancements to the actual printing parts if you like, but it's largely the same as the screen is the same. WiFi is useful with a massive plate. As USB sticks don't allow for files larger than 4GB thanks to the nature of the FAT32 format, it's possible to exceed this - I know I have - so I can see how wifi is one possible solution. I do like the heater / mixer, but if you already have an M3 Max, buying an enclosure heater is a more sensible approach 😁
Then you are fortunate my friend. Unfortunately companies ideally need to cater for "all" the environments in which they sell printers. At least IF you were forced to buy a printer that included a heater, it wouldn't be needed and you'd save on energy costs. Personally I'm not really a fan of this style of pre-heating. I think enclosure heaters are a better way to go. If companies supplied these (as Elegoo are doing) then both you and I would be happier.
wont the heater stop heating if the resin temp hits the temp? if ur room is 36 c, resin is 32c, and u set to 25c i will assume the heating system to stop heating orelse i would imagine the resin will boil after 1 hour of heating haha
Mine showed up today! Thanks for the review I cannot wait to start printing on it!
Hope you enjoy it! 😁😁😁
I avoided watching this sooner as I didn’t want to influence my own review. But turns out I had little to worry about…. I feel like we literally said the same thing….
Another fantastic review Vogman!
Let’s hope this is the first of a new start for Anycubic!
I'm not so sure about that. I can't seem to get printers off them anymore. If I get them, they're broken or so far passed release date that my reviews pointless. Maybe they're avoiding me 😁
@ I’ll admit myself. Comms has been different this year. I’m constantly chasing. My contact. Let me mention next time I speak to her. But you do a great job and I always look forward what you say. Even when we don’t agree, I love having your view to consider as you often think of things I don’t.
I don't know if you were reviewing at the time of Mathieu, but there was a guy on the ball. Grafter. Got it 100% right. Like you say, this year has been... different 😉
And we shouldn't agree all the time. We like different things. We eat different meals, etc. What matters is we both strive for honesty. There's far too many yes-men reviewers already.
Take care buddy 😁😁😁👍👍👍
@ so… I met Matthieu this week at FormNext!!! And yeah he’s a legend. He’s at Sunlu now! And I miss him and Anycubic
And yep. I even agree with your statements about disagreeing! Lol
I run my printers in their own purpose built wooden cabinets/enclosures with a digital temp controlled space heater to keep the ambient air temps around the printers to 30c . I also preheat the resin tank with a small cake style heat gun before starting prints. I basically look for the viscosity to change by watching the waves generated by the hot air blowing into the resin only takes a couple of mins with a forced air heatgun much faster I assume than these passive heating elements built into the tank tray. The heat gun also has the added benefit of instantly removing air bubbles from the resin. Its been a really a good combo for me with my 3 Anycubic Mono6Ks printers running around the clock 7 days a week. I also have digital thermometers monitoring the ambient air temp around the printers. I assume I would do the same process even if I purchased one of these auto tank heater printers. I don't really have time to wait for the machines to do their slow motion automatic nonsense. My Formlabs Form 2 did the same heater nonsense and it took longer than Id like especially in the winter months. If the heated tank on this printer was a thing that kept running during a print then this feature might have some use to me. Would surely be more efficient than using an automatic space heater. All these bells and whistles justify these printer companies charging all this extra money while really not adding much value to the final product. Id like to see major improvements to the screen and speed of these printers. They kinda fake it with their speed numbers by having all these caveats and conditions to achieve them. Also the screen res seems pretty low for a higher end resin printer in this class. Thanks for your videos VOG Man very no bs straight to the point. I find many resin printer guy reviews are all just oh wow and clickbait or random tangents about things that arent important.
Love the sound of your set up. Smart thinking 😁
What do you print 7days a week? Curious!
Did I miss it, or does the heater heat only before printing? The store page says heating stops when build starts.
Yeah, preheating. It's better than nothing and it's the way everyone is going. I prefer enclosure style heating.
@@vogman Thanks for taking the time to replay and for the excellent review. I also asked over on J3D Tech video and he believes it heats throughout. This seems to be the case based on his tests, but is contradicted by the store page. I guess if it works, it works, however it works!
Everything seems to suggest pre-heat to me. It even calls itself pre-heat. I wish it did heat throughout, but I think like Uniformation and Phrozen, Anycubic are expecting the screen and chemical reactions to keep things warm. Personally I don't think that's enough.
@@vogman I'm still using your original heater design, and it works great. As it's totally independent of the printer, I have it on a wireless remote, so my Alexa sets it going 30 mins before I need to print. It would also be nice if printers could have an autostart, so when powered up, it will automatically start a print. I used J3D's "Quick mix" routine to give the resin a good stir before running an actual print.
@@vogman I suspect this is down to power issues. Heaters suck juice, which would also explain the mains power cable instead of an external PSU.
I would guess the machine is not rated to run a print AND heat it as it would draw too much current and probably go bang / explode / upset the space/time continuum.
The heating system improvements on this are the exact reason we learn to never buy version 1. Cheers Voggy!
What I love is that some of us have been begging for heaters for a while now, and in their marketing video Anycubic are showing the heating system and saying, "Enhancing success rate."
Yes, Anycubic, we know. That's why we've been building our own heaters and asking you guys to address this issue 🤣😂🤣
I love the large build volume and while we always want more resolution, 47 micron resolution is enough for me. I make functional prints and I'd buy a printer in this class for small scale manufacturing. I'd typically prefer manual resin filling rather than the complexity of a resin pump but I can definitely see the advantage of swapping bottles in a production environment, probably with some way to drain the dregs of the previous bottle into the new bottle. Vat heating to a thermostatically controlled temperature would be a big win for manufacturing consistency but preheating and then shutting off the heater to allow the resin temperature to vary throughout the print is of very limited use to me. What was Anycubic thinking? I'd prefer a temperature controlled chamber heater to provide a consistent environment, even if I needed to make my own, with a warming box for the next bottle of resin.
I make functional parts and do not want the time wasting hassle and resin waste from a support structure. I often have a large build plate contact area and large cross section while printing and that can cause excessive pull force on the film. For a large format printer like this, the tilting resin tray of the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra is almost a requirement for print success and film longevity. Monitoring the pull force and displaying it is nice but ultimately does me no good. I'd much prefer a tilting tray to reduce the pull force.
Glad to see they have changed the heater vat, much tidier
Yes, the other was way too big.
I like the smaller size of the heater compared to m7 pro. However, the resolution of LCD is a little disappointing.
I agree. The Pro heater plus the unusual tray design was not an ideal solution for me.
If they release M7 Max with higher resolution so I can get 25-30um details im gone buy it asap. I already have the M7 Pro but I would love to make larger functional prints so I can actually get prints with good layer adhesion in all directions and that look like injection molding parts and not continue to use my Creality K1 Max ( I don't mind if put more work to get better quality parts that fit exactly and can actually print intricate models with no problem). I don't want to buy GK3 Ultra cause it's way to expensive and also it doesn't have intelligent release which is a really nice feature if you want to get fast, dimensional acurate and insanelly detailed print parts (abs-like and though new generation resins ftw :P).
Yeah, it's disappointing they didn't upgrade the screen. I'm guessing another model will follow shortly.
thank you for the video! my elegoo jupiter 6k broke recently and replacing the broken part would be over 300€ so im considering changing to the m7 max. would you say the extra 400€ is worth the upgrade from a used jupiter to a new m7 max or am i better off saving that money and continuing with my elegoo? thank u
you can see the lines caused by the ACF I would change that to fep of somekind that frosting of that AFC is just a deal breaker. good thing you can change it yourself but I wished it was an option to just buy form them at the start.
I agree with you, I'm not an ACF fan.
What best printer for scale 1/64 miniature sir..?
Let's see what Elagoo has in store for their future Jupiter Ultra. Wouldn't mind a square 50 micron pixel size as long as the build volume is 35x20x35 cm about 25 liter (comparable to Form 4L). About force sensing athena was not the first to implement as there were other commercial dental printers which had them already. Elagoo Saturn 4 Ultra and Mars 5 Ultra too have force sonsors. Personanally, I feel the tilting vat tank is a killer featrure especially for tall (Z axis) prints 25 cm and above. What I would love to see in future Elagoo Jupiter Ultra would be some design inspirations from UniF GK3 like the resin filling systen, the build plate latching and leveling mechanism design. Also I wish they (Elagoo) add LAN port, SD card slot, chamber light, integrated dc power supply, UPS for safe shut down and auto restart resume print function. Thanks for the review and keep up the good work.
It will be interesting the see. Elegoo has traditionally been very slow moving when it comes to the Large printers.
For the functional prints and small scale manufacturing on large format resin printers, the tilting tray to reduce film pull force is THE feature I want more than any other.
Sounds and looks good to me. Can’t beat a big knob. 😊
Anycubic clearly think so 😁
Do you think it would benefit from an enclosure heater
Personally I do, yes. Companies are taking the stance of pre-heat and let the screen and chemical reactions keep the resin warm. I think a cold environment will eventually chill that.
Yes. Preheat is just not good enough. Big prints may take 6-8 hours, by which time the resin will be stone cold.
How is the speed with standard resin compared to the M7 Pro?
Honestly I didn't find the Max slow at all. It was certainly comparable with midrange printers 😁
Thoughts on this vs the GK3 Ultra?
Hi looking to buy my first resin printer for lost casting was wondering if you could help me and point me in the right direction for wax printing jewellery i was thinking saturn ultra 4 what would you recommend thanks
This should help www.vegoilguy.co.uk/3d-resin-printing-which-printer.php
Thank you for the video. I'm new to resin prinnting. Does this printer auto level? Do you need to re level in between prints? Thanks!
No, there's no auto-level here. It should come from the factory pre-levelled, but that doesn't always happen. Paper levelling is easy enough and something I cover in this video ua-cam.com/video/N0Ab07LRWBg/v-deo.html
Once levelled, you shouldn't need to do it again until you change you FEP.
I hope this helps 😁
Leveling a resin printer is stupidly easy, and takes only a minute to do manually. If done right, it's something you would only do like... once a year? So don't worry about it!
@@guilhermecarvalhotrindade2625 i did once and used 5 years no issue
I seem to have bought my printer just before all these heaters and pumps etc came out. The phrozen mighty 4K isn’t even that old. Only way I can add is by modding the case or cover and adding diy heaters etc.
Not worth updating yet. I think I’ve only really used it 10times as I couldn’t get resin warm enough to work properly in the setup I had. plus the mess - which is far far worse than FDM.
Resin printers are messy. It's an unfortunate fact. But you can get a pretty cheap heater and / or enclosure that will really benefit your printing. Have a look at this video ua-cam.com/video/SZW9vBppQ-A/v-deo.html
I'm torn if i should get this printer. I "only have a Anycubic Mono 2 atm, and it kinda does it's job printing the wargaming miniatures i need. I live in Denmark, so the temperature in my isolated shed is 8-10degrees C atm, which is too cold. I'm running with no heater and that obiviously creates some issues. If only the screen would have been atleast 10k, it would have been an instant buy from my part. I would not mind an extra 100-200USD for that.
As always, great video VogMan!
In terms of print quality, the M7 is a tiny step backwards from your Mono 2, but you wouldn't really notice the difference, other than have a MUCH bigger build plate 😁
As for your temperature, you really need a heater. Check out this video ua-cam.com/video/SZW9vBppQ-A/v-deo.html
I like the build plate drip hooks and the premixing script, things that should have become standard a long time ago
I do understand that past a point screen resolution is just marketing hype, but I would have liked just a little bit lower than 46 microns, like 30 microns
Without magnification, it's hard to tell differences in print quality past a point, I agree, and I also agree that 46 microns is about 20 microns too far off that ideal point. I think Anycubic should have put a bigger screen into this and then they would have had a real winner. People love the GK3 Ultra but it's a lot more expensive. Anycubic could have really grabbed this market.
@@vogman can you do a resolution comparison between the gk3 ultra and m7 max? I'm curious if that 20 ish micron difference is noticeable.
Does the M3 Max resin VAT fit to M7 Max?
No idea, sorry.
I'd love to see them release a better screen later on (like what Uniformation did with the GK Two upgrade to 10k). I consider buying this machine but the screen worries me quite a lot.... I consider to go for M7 Pro (much better pixel density) instead but still.... I kinda like what I see here (except the screen of course).
I thought after the GK3 Ultra we'd see bigger screens in all the big printers. Anycubic surprised me here. Hopefully it will come.
Apart from the screen, it seems like a premium machine. I've seen some prints online and the quality, with AA on, is impressive for a 7K screen. The GK 3 Ultra would be ideal but it is also more expensive and still in "pre-order" status.
I don't know if it can print miniatures but for larger prints and at this price, the M7 max seems to be quite good.
My miniatures here were approx 50mm tall, so not strictly mini, but there was fine detail there for sure.
I currently have the mono photon 2 but damn this would be nice
It's impressed me... and I genuinely wasn't expecting it to 😁
I was waiting for gk3 but seams they have a lot of problems with early batches, broken printers, defects etc. Isn't there anything else on the market that has the same or bigger build volume with decent resolution. This new m7 is not good enough.
Great video! Useful as always 👌 but I have to ask, will we be seeing a Mono 4 Ultra honest review? I feel it should be a great dental/jewelry printer
I do keep asking, so hopefully not long 😁
Thx! Regards!!
Thanks for watching.
some nice new features, but no reason to update my current M3 Max machines. How could they NOT swap the display for either a larger format or at least a better resolution?? this sucks, i was waiting for this machine but i think i am gonna skip this one, at least until my M3 MAX starting to die.
If you already have the M3, then I agree, it's not worth the upgrade 😁
right angle power and usb adaptors are pretty easy to find :)
Very true... it just shouldn't be necessary. The printing community is full of smart people that can figure out workarounds, but ideally the printer companies should get it right themselves 😁
@vogman also true, but I have a very shallow desk, so side ports are preferable 😄
It feels like we're getting to a plateau with resin printer features - high resolution, high speed, sturdy construction, heaters and force measurements... I'm not sure what else I could ask for.
What new features would you hope to see on printers in 2026?
I'm genuinely surprised by Anycubic here. After the GK3 Ultra I expected all the companies to offer bigger screens on their Large printers. So I guess we'll see that early next year.
Whilst Anycubic have nodded towards force technology, they are taking baby steps where Athena was trying to leap, so I guess in time that's what we'll see... because in theory force technology can determine it's own resin settings 😁
I agree with the exception of construction. Construction on many printers has been going backwards with flimsy garbage parts. I have a Saturn 2. Pretty solid construction but iffy print success. I hot a Photon Mono 2. Cheap price and great prints but self destructed after about 25 prints. A gear stripped out in the base somewhere. Dead. I've been researching the Saturn 4 and Mars 5 and Ultras. Lots of units with various parts failing after very little use. I'll pass on this technoligal marvel with crap construction. I want a solid and reliable machine that will print hundreds of plates with no mechanical failures over top notch resolution and then dying in 2 months.
Do i understand the M7 Max is nothing but a M3 max with a resin heater and automatic filling system?? And a flip cover??
If yes, i would rather stay with the M3. An automatic filling system is a decent feature but i can imagine it is a nightmare to clean.
There's some small enhancements to the actual printing parts if you like, but it's largely the same as the screen is the same. WiFi is useful with a massive plate. As USB sticks don't allow for files larger than 4GB thanks to the nature of the FAT32 format, it's possible to exceed this - I know I have - so I can see how wifi is one possible solution. I do like the heater / mixer, but if you already have an M3 Max, buying an enclosure heater is a more sensible approach 😁
No integrated camera for monitoring?
Certainly not on the one I received.
7k ? I'll pass. Nice extras though.
I suspect we'll see bigger within 6 months.
Heater? I don't think it make sense for me to pay for features that I don't use. My room temperature is higher than the heater temperature.
Then you are fortunate my friend. Unfortunately companies ideally need to cater for "all" the environments in which they sell printers. At least IF you were forced to buy a printer that included a heater, it wouldn't be needed and you'd save on energy costs.
Personally I'm not really a fan of this style of pre-heating. I think enclosure heaters are a better way to go. If companies supplied these (as Elegoo are doing) then both you and I would be happier.
Many users either have cold rooms, or use garages / workshops so as not to stink the house out.
wont the heater stop heating if the resin temp hits the temp? if ur room is 36 c, resin is 32c, and u set to 25c i will assume the heating system to stop heating orelse i would imagine the resin will boil after 1 hour of heating haha
Shame, all those great features and then they use a display with 47 micron and therefore eliminates it immediately.
Yes, it's a shame. A bigger screen would have made a big difference here.
@@vogman Higher resolution density, definitely. My old Photon Mono only had around 50 micron and that was ages ago.
Most commercial print farms are still using 50 micron screens. I haven’t heard any complaints yet.
8:20 what kind of that hair?
In my house, anything is possible 🤣😂🤣
#LLVM
Thanks buddy 😁
its the same printer as the m3 max, super disappointing