13:48 If anyone wants to know what that special tools is: it's a Yukon Gear & Axle YT P20 or P22 Differential Carrier Bearing Puller (difference between the two is a couple of pieces that aren't used in this job). I used my new P22 today to remove the bearings from two 3.9 Final Drive LSDs (center and front in a TY856) and it work flawlessly. Also note that you'll want to pick up a 1/2" drive 1.5" impact socket to drive the "press"
sorry to be off topic but does anyone know a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost my password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Koda Harlan i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
13:16 Fun little tip and trick (though it doesn't always work and so isn't as reliable): you can hold side bearing retainer (SUbaru calls it a "Holder axle bearing") under a stream of hot water and the outer race will sometimes just fall out. I'm not trying to tell this professional how to do his job, btw. Just an extra "tool" for the viewers to put in their toolbox.
This is one of the best videos I've seen. You really talk everything through and explain each step of the way, the how, the why and the wherefore. Thank you so much. I really appreciate your time and expertise you have shared.
Great video and very informative! I like that you let Paul speak / teach without attempting to interrupt or speak over him. You were also respectful with the O ring question.
Thanks, currently have the r160 open diff out of my 17wrx and this helps with reconstruction. The pinion (smaller) spider gears lost a few teeth as seems to be common failure point.
This video works for the R160 as well. Everything is the same in positioning and installation. Except the carrier bearings go a bit further than past the flat. I used the old bearing to finish the press. Same with the front diff, as they are the same bearings.
I was just looking up lsd rebuilds for my 2015 and stumbled upon this, this man is a magician, a sage even. Absolutely mesmerizing watching him take apart and rebuild the whole damn differential
A few tips, I recommend not using oil on the new races. Using oil or grease can cause the the races to spin ruining the case. If they are loose fitting from being spun you can use bearing lock from loctite. You want them clean and dry before installing them, and the case .i would recommend not pressing the bearing from race on the pinion, should be pressed by the inner race of the bearing cone. Using a chisel to press in the front pinion race is not correct using the old bearing race making sure it’s not backwards that way you can tap it out if it gets stuck works but using a proper bearing race driver is better. And smashing the seal in with a hammer? Use the old front bearing race it’s the perfect fit, to safely press the seal in
Hi Paul I would like to ask for some info on these rear R180 differentials I am building a 4x4 cross-kart buggy and using this R180 in the rear and front I was getting a front one out of a Nissan 720 4x4 truck but they are pretty much gone but being an R180 can I take a rear one and set it up in the front what is the difference on the ring gear my drive train turns to the left when setting in the buggy how can I change the ring gear to a front-drive set up can you send me some pictures of rear ring gear and a front ring gear stand them up to show the direction the rear one and front one in line thank you Steven.
I really like this video. I've watched it lots of times. I am trying to do the same thing on my R160 rear diff (AP Suretrac in case that matters). I cannot get the smaller pinion race into position. It is not entirely clear from this video how it's done. The mechanic uses his big tool with bit broken off it, but there is an obstruction that prevents me getting the race in position. It gets close, but then gets stuck. I've heated the case to about 150C in the oven and put the race in the freezer, still stuck. Would love some good advice please!
This is a cool video to watch, but I would say that anyone that tries this on their own might want to be more precise. I wouldn't personally settle for that drive tooth pattern on something I was racing. Also, Im sure the hammer works, but I always install seal with a socket or other tool to keep them flat and even. And I always use a torque wrench on something with a metal gasket, its cheap insurance against leaks.
i dont know if someone has asked already but is there any way to get the bearing, and seal numbers? i cant find any bearing new numbers for my R160? i have the howeling sound while coasting so im doing axles clutch, and diff freshen up. thanks for any help!
Great video on the 'How to', but the rear diff was giving you problems. Did I miss the part of 'this is whats wrong with it'? Replacing bearings and seals - nice, but nothing was shown if the bearings were bad. All parts were reused.
I have run into a problem where I am rebuilding mine, I do not have those end cap shims, how do I go about figuring out which sizes I need? I understand the basics of shimming and such, I just need to know what I need to do. Thanks
25:11 This is the difference between a master and some graduate from UTI that only knows how to replace entire OEM stock modules by looking up part numbers.
I have been looking for the Yukon side Bearing Puller used in this video. I was informed that the bearing puller I need is a YT P20 56034. I ordered one from Ebay and it never arrived. The only distributor that has one of these is Amazon. The price has now gone up a buck and I want to be sure this will work on a Subaru BAJA. VIN is 4S4BT63C556106467 . Or..do I need the YT P22? Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks Bill
How do you get the middle pinion bearing race in? It is not very clear. I am doing my R160 AP Suretrac rear diff. I cannot get that race in. There is an obstruction I can't seem to get past. I would LOVE some good advice on this!!!
"just didn't catch it on camera" You don't know that he didn't remove them because it wasn't on camera. When asked to explain what kind of limited slip it was, he pointed at and described the clutch packs, but that wasn't actually inspecting them.
Federico Di Franco it should be a privilege to receive your R180 back with his hammer dents on it. That’s like Thor building you a house with his hammer.
Front and rear bearing preload For new bearing: 18.6 - 25.5N (1.9 2.6 kg.) 4.2- 5.7 ib) With Spring balance at companion flange bolt hole. Info from service manual for 1997 subaru impreza only. Drive Pinion Nut Torque Specs. Start low and increase to achieve preload. 181 - or + 15 N-m (18.5 - or + 1.5 kg-m), 134 - or + 11 ft-lb) 1 inch lb of torque is 12 ft-lb, so 4 inch pound of torque as shown in preload video is equivalent to 48 ft-lb
Too little info. Biggest thing to remember is to maintain the final drive ratio across the board. You mix a 3.90 with a 4.11 and you're gonna have a bad time. That final drive ratio (in the differential carrier ie the rear diff) is determined by the ring and pinion gear, so you actually can take your old diff carrier and replace just the diff with basically what ever you like (as long as you stay within the SureTrac R series, that is. So the bolt pattern on the ring gear matches to the diff. The 180 or 160 in the R series means the number of splines on the ring gear, btw). I'm not fimiliar with your model, so assuming it came with open diffs, you should be able to buy it directly from Subaru at parts.subaru.com (if it didn't come with what you want on your model, check the LSD on other models).
@@occamsrazor1285 yeah , on euro-spec and us-spec there are only suretracs and torsens now...Last plated rear diffs was on STI-07 in euro /Us..... It´s posible they still got plated diffs on spec-C , the S-207 /S-208 and Type RA-R in Japan but not here
lifeisgood070 I don't know I think he kind of half-assed the rebuild. he didn't measure really anything... all he checked was the wear pattern and on the drive side of the wear pattern it could have been better for sure it was barely half of the gear.
Totally agree he never put the tools up to the gear. Granted in this case he probably got lucky and everything will be fine given the parts that were re-used. But if you were building or designing one there is way more stuff you should check. There is literally no way to know how hot this gear will get under load given the testing done. I've seen good gears with horrible backlash get some ridiculous temperatures.
lifeisgood070 he did check the backlash at 22:08 What is hard to express on film is experience. Dude has been rebuilding rear ends for more years than most of the commenters have been alive. Yes could he set up a dial indicator, but the end result is going to be the same. He just has done it enough to feel it.
lifeisgood070 I agree with Tracy Allen, this guy relies on a lot of experience. He gave it a wiggle and was like this is good, I'm sure he is correct but I'd love to see a dial indicator. The driveside wear pattern looked a little off center but I guess he explained that it was just a worn gear. I think experience is valuable, I've tried cooking where my mom did a pinch of this and heat for a a few minutes while I followed the recipe to a tee and hers was noticeably better.
Nope - the R180 is easily identifiable by the big letter K cast into the main housing, R160 do not have that. Also the flat mounting surface where the 2 rear mounting bolts protrude from the cover plate is different on the R160, it has 2 separate smaller mounting surfaces around the bolts compared to the single one on the R180.
From what was shown they took no initial pattern from the used gears to reset to. So they are going blind on the wear pattern hoping the gears wear back together without burning up. Truly a get R done shop.
The experience that Paul shows is amazing. He should have his own show. I'd watch it every day.
13:48 If anyone wants to know what that special tools is: it's a Yukon Gear & Axle YT P20 or P22 Differential Carrier Bearing Puller (difference between the two is a couple of pieces that aren't used in this job). I used my new P22 today to remove the bearings from two 3.9 Final Drive LSDs (center and front in a TY856) and it work flawlessly. Also note that you'll want to pick up a 1/2" drive 1.5" impact socket to drive the "press"
This man has some experience. Makes this look so easy.
True dat, joy to watch humble experts who are willing to share their knowledge.
Always good to watch a professional at work, a job for a craftman.
Thanks for the upload,
It's good to see someone who genuinely can explain and detail his work
sorry to be off topic but does anyone know a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost my password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Brodie Onyx Instablaster :)
@Koda Harlan i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Koda Harlan it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account!
@Brodie Onyx glad I could help xD
This is almost hypnotic the way he moved with what looks to be the precise amount of force needed for every step.
It's great to see a master at work.
This guy just taught me how to rebuild my diff in 30 minutes. I wish this video existed when it blew up and I bought a new one.
13:16 Fun little tip and trick (though it doesn't always work and so isn't as reliable): you can hold side bearing retainer (SUbaru calls it a "Holder axle bearing") under a stream of hot water and the outer race will sometimes just fall out. I'm not trying to tell this professional how to do his job, btw. Just an extra "tool" for the viewers to put in their toolbox.
This man is a treasure and need to be saved.....sounds like he would be an amazing teacher for an apprentice.
This is one of the best videos I've seen. You really talk everything through and explain each step of the way, the how, the why and the wherefore. Thank you so much. I really appreciate your time and expertise you have shared.
Great video and very informative! I like that you let Paul speak / teach without attempting to interrupt or speak over him. You were also respectful with the O ring question.
This guy is a god
i love this man .....i wish he was my neighbor
really, he's like a master chef deboning and filleting a salmon lol
I agree .... I wished he was near me (Croydon {UK})......
Old pro...and it certainly seems like good guy.
His mustache is the source of his power
I'd like to thank Paul for this precious information and experience👍🏻You rock!
That dude is old school good! A lifetime of invaluable experience.
That guy is a badass, he makes it look so easy
Now I know a good shop is only about 4 hours from Seattle. Definitely going to hit him up to rebuild my r180. Nice video!
only take 29 min
Well I'm about to step into the shop and try to do all my r180 diff bearings. Wish me luck.
Thank you man for this video, now I rebuild my R160 but more accuracy 😂❤
it's good to see there are still good professionals around
Something satisfying about watching a master going about his business.
Thank you for documenting this. That guy is a pro.
wtf was the outer race of the new pinion bearing used to press against the rollers....?! 5:11
I like how he gives a sarcastic eyebrow lift when you say race car
no mention of pinion shim.
4 in-lb for preload doesn't sound right
Thanks, currently have the r160 open diff out of my 17wrx and this helps with reconstruction. The pinion (smaller) spider gears lost a few teeth as seems to be common failure point.
Now get the hell out of my shop.
...I've got a Wilford Brimley Look-Alike Contest to go win!
This is really great! Thanks for the upload. Gives me the confidence to rebuild my car's diff.
This video works for the R160 as well. Everything is the same in positioning and installation. Except the carrier bearings go a bit further than past the flat. I used the old bearing to finish the press. Same with the front diff, as they are the same bearings.
Blaze Townsend I’m having trouble getting the top roller bearing down to race any tips
I was just looking up lsd rebuilds for my 2015 and stumbled upon this, this man is a magician, a sage even. Absolutely mesmerizing watching him take apart and rebuild the whole damn differential
That was an artist at work.Thanks so much for sharing.
A few tips, I recommend not using oil on the new races. Using oil or grease can cause the the races to spin ruining the case. If they are loose fitting from being spun you can use bearing lock from loctite. You want them clean and dry before installing them, and the case .i would recommend not pressing the bearing from race on the pinion, should be pressed by the inner race of the bearing cone. Using a chisel to press in the front pinion race is not correct using the old bearing race making sure it’s not backwards that way you can tap it out if it gets stuck works but using a proper bearing race driver is better. And smashing the seal in with a hammer? Use the old front bearing race it’s the perfect fit, to safely press the seal in
Hi Paul I would like to ask for some info on these rear R180 differentials I am building a 4x4 cross-kart buggy and using this R180 in the rear and front I was getting a front one out of a Nissan 720 4x4 truck but they are pretty much gone but being an R180 can I take a rear one and set it up in the front what is the difference on the ring gear my drive train turns to the left when setting in the buggy how can I change the ring gear to a front-drive set up can you send me some pictures of rear ring gear and a front ring gear stand them up to show the direction the rear one and front one in line thank you Steven.
I really like this video. I've watched it lots of times. I am trying to do the same thing on my R160 rear diff (AP Suretrac in case that matters). I cannot get the smaller pinion race into position. It is not entirely clear from this video how it's done. The mechanic uses his big tool with bit broken off it, but there is an obstruction that prevents me getting the race in position. It gets close, but then gets stuck. I've heated the case to about 150C in the oven and put the race in the freezer, still stuck. Would love some good advice please!
Do you have list all parts you need for rebuild your rear differential
This is extraordinarily informative!
That guy knows what he's doing!
No torque procedure or specs for those side plates that hold the axle seals??
Paul is a total Diff Farley 😎👍
interesting vid, cheers for the info, that dude probably has sooooo many trade secrets to tell haha
This mechanic is on a whole other level
The only time I hammered on bearing races I was installing (in my center differential). ....I deformed the races and I ended up with bearing noises.
This is a cool video to watch, but I would say that anyone that tries this on their own might want to be more precise. I wouldn't personally settle for that drive tooth pattern on something I was racing. Also, Im sure the hammer works, but I always install seal with a socket or other tool to keep them flat and even. And I always use a torque wrench on something with a metal gasket, its cheap insurance against leaks.
For sure, the shown rebuild is efficient for race car use. But its not sufficient for long term use... too inaccurate
Where did you get your parts from? Was there a kit or did you have to buy each part from Subaru?
i dont know if someone has asked already but is there any way to get the bearing, and seal numbers? i cant find any bearing new numbers for my R160? i have the howeling sound while coasting so im doing axles clutch, and diff freshen up. thanks for any help!
So this is where “pops” from speed racer has been hiding. Differential ninja status!
Great video on the 'How to', but the rear diff was giving you problems. Did I miss the part of 'this is whats wrong with it'?
Replacing bearings and seals - nice, but nothing was shown if the bearings were bad. All parts were reused.
Where can I find side bearing retainer for 1978 280z
I have run into a problem where I am rebuilding mine, I do not have those end cap shims, how do I go about figuring out which sizes I need? I understand the basics of shimming and such, I just need to know what I need to do. Thanks
Thanks and greentings from Spain.
Any chance you found give me a part number for that bearing puller you used on the carrier, i need that in my life like now lol
Good job on that explanation guys.
25:11 This is the difference between a master and some graduate from UTI that only knows how to replace entire OEM stock modules by looking up part numbers.
I think ol' Carl there likes his ham shanks about the same size as that diffy.
I have been looking for the Yukon side Bearing Puller used in this video. I was informed that the bearing puller I need is a YT P20 56034. I ordered one from Ebay and it never arrived. The only distributor that has one of these is Amazon. The price has now gone up a buck and I want to be sure this will work on a Subaru BAJA. VIN is 4S4BT63C556106467 . Or..do I need the YT P22? Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks Bill
How do you get the middle pinion bearing race in?
It is not very clear. I am doing my R160 AP Suretrac rear diff. I cannot get that race in. There is an obstruction I can't seem to get past. I would LOVE some good advice on this!!!
Never mind. I made a mistake.
your channel deserves more subs! great vids man
I have an 02 outback 6 cylinder and need a differential . Can I use one from a 4 cylinder outback or any suggestoons
"Now, get the hell out of my workshop..." 😂
Wish mine was pre cleaned when i tore it apart
wow this video was so educating. that guy is a beast
Did you buy a rebuild kit or did you buy each piece individually from the dealer?
how much did this service cost you? parts included??
Where can I find such a noble and wise mechanic
You might want to cut the mushrooms of of those punches. If a punch is mushroomed enough, a chip can fly off and strike you.
Isn't there an o-ring on either side on top of the shims?
is the suretrac front diff really not a good option for tarmac?
Where did you buy your bearings races and seals. Thanks great video.
Dealership
@@TIRESIDE I really appreciate your speedy response! Thank you for taking the time to reply. V/R Bill
How come the clutches in the lsd weren't checked or replaced?
He did look at them, just didn’t catch it on camera.
"just didn't catch it on camera"
You don't know that he didn't remove them because it wasn't on camera. When asked to explain what kind of limited slip it was, he pointed at and described the clutch packs, but that wasn't actually inspecting them.
@@RChero1010 he's telling you it happened and your telling him it didn't lmao dumbass
That is some years and years of skills
Working on Subaru’s in a nutshell
“They could of givin us more room here but they didn’t”
You know what a Copper Hammer Is?
Federico Di Franco it should be a privilege to receive your R180 back with his hammer dents on it. That’s like Thor building you a house with his hammer.
@@johnbenz82 i think i'll pass 😂😂
How much did it cost for the rebuild?
Can you send me the bearing name set please
Front and rear bearing preload
For new bearing:
18.6 - 25.5N (1.9 2.6 kg.) 4.2- 5.7 ib)
With Spring balance at companion flange bolt hole.
Info from service manual for 1997 subaru impreza only.
Drive Pinion Nut Torque Specs.
Start low and increase to achieve preload.
181 - or + 15 N-m (18.5 - or + 1.5 kg-m), 134 - or + 11 ft-lb)
1 inch lb of torque is 12 ft-lb, so 4 inch pound of torque as shown in preload video is equivalent to 48 ft-lb
Why would you not change the clutch pack on the lsd? This guy is a bit careless the way he hammers and throws everything around.
What ratio is that diff
Does ANYONE PLEASE know where i could find a LSD (rear) that would fit into my 2011 Subaru WRX sedan???
Too little info. Biggest thing to remember is to maintain the final drive ratio across the board. You mix a 3.90 with a 4.11 and you're gonna have a bad time. That final drive ratio (in the differential carrier ie the rear diff) is determined by the ring and pinion gear, so you actually can take your old diff carrier and replace just the diff with basically what ever you like (as long as you stay within the SureTrac R series, that is. So the bolt pattern on the ring gear matches to the diff. The 180 or 160 in the R series means the number of splines on the ring gear, btw). I'm not fimiliar with your model, so assuming it came with open diffs, you should be able to buy it directly from Subaru at parts.subaru.com (if it didn't come with what you want on your model, check the LSD on other models).
This guy would be a great dentist
THE GOD DAMN YODA OF DIFF REPAIRS !
Thanks for the professional rundown on a rebuild.
12:36 The first time I've ever heard loctite referred to as "bad ass".
Very useful. Thank you very much, Paul
what a great video bro!
is there a break in period on these once rebuilt or new?
I feel like he could be the Gordon Ramsey of mechanics.
Great video. Sadly, I could not do this without the specialty tools. :(
Is this the suretrack / torsen diff that are mounted in a STI 2016 ?
This is from an 05 drivetrain.
Wait...are the newer models coming with Torsen diffs now?!
@@occamsrazor1285 yeah , on euro-spec and us-spec there are only suretracs and torsens now...Last plated rear diffs was on STI-07 in euro /Us..... It´s posible they still got plated diffs on spec-C , the S-207 /S-208 and Type RA-R in Japan but not here
You checked wear pattern and preload but what about backlash?
lifeisgood070 I don't know I think he kind of half-assed the rebuild. he didn't measure really anything... all he checked was the wear pattern and on the drive side of the wear pattern it could have been better for sure it was barely half of the gear.
Totally agree he never put the tools up to the gear. Granted in this case he probably got lucky and everything will be fine given the parts that were re-used. But if you were building or designing one there is way more stuff you should check.
There is literally no way to know how hot this gear will get under load given the testing done. I've seen good gears with horrible backlash get some ridiculous temperatures.
lifeisgood070 he did check the backlash at 22:08
What is hard to express on film is experience. Dude has been rebuilding rear ends for more years than most of the commenters have been alive. Yes could he set up a dial indicator, but the end result is going to be the same. He just has done it enough to feel it.
:)
lifeisgood070 I agree with Tracy Allen, this guy relies on a lot of experience. He gave it a wiggle and was like this is good, I'm sure he is correct but I'd love to see a dial indicator. The driveside wear pattern looked a little off center but I guess he explained that it was just a worn gear. I think experience is valuable, I've tried cooking where my mom did a pinch of this and heat for a a few minutes while I followed the recipe to a tee and hers was noticeably better.
1:59 does anyone else hear that? Spooked me, thought there was kid next to me whispering
Lol, I heard that
Good old Master!
that ghost at 2:16 wanting a better view
Great content,
30mins of waiting ,and no test drive? Ah. crap. :D Nice vid! thanks! ;)
Bro you from newberg or even Oregon lol
He's a magician I tell you
Can you reuse diff cover gasket ?
Chris Shreffler I would not recommend it. You might not have a leak, but it would for sure weep, always look wet.
Lovely! Thanks allot bro.
Isn't that a R160?? The R180 has other housing and side cases.
Nope - the R180 is easily identifiable by the big letter K cast into the main housing, R160 do not have that. Also the flat mounting surface where the 2 rear mounting bolts protrude from the cover plate is different on the R160, it has 2 separate smaller mounting surfaces around the bolts compared to the single one on the R180.
From what was shown they took no initial pattern from the used gears to reset to. So they are going blind on the wear pattern hoping the gears wear back together without burning up. Truly a get R done shop.
He’s a beast 👍🏽