I roll a little different than most I think. I run mild trails just to get to good fly fishing spots. No heavy wheeling maybe some water crossing. Overland camping/fishing. The stock 30/35 with 31x10.5 TeraFlex 2.5 inch lift seems to be doing fantastic
Finally some straight up honest advice! That's the first time I've heard (or read) someone giving axle upgrade advice based on wheeling style. For years I ran 37's on my YJ with a D30 and an 8.8 with 4.56s. I left the 30 open to reduce my chances of breaking. I also wheeled in the same manner as you and if I didn't get up the obstacle I went around (no winch at the time). Thanks for giving real advice to the people, if you drive your rig with some common sense you can enjoy your stock axles waaaay beyond what the keyboard warriors say.
I really appreciate this video and having you explain with REAL world experience. Which is what most forums, social media, etc... are just noise. Since an agenda or pursuit of upgrade is being pushed. I bought my TJ as a way to jeep and not purchase a side by side. I have loved my jeep and continue to learn more after a 20yr off roading hiatus.
My goal for this video was to explain to the every day Jeep Owner that it’s not necessary to go out and drop $10k to run a bigger tire and have fun on the trail. Glad you enjoyed it
Man thank you so much for all the awesome content. I’ve got an 03 tj in the same Khaki color as yours and you’ve become my inspiration for the build. I love how yours has really come together
Some people limit their wheeling to fit their vehicle. Other people build their vehicle to fit the limits of their wheeling. Neither is wrong. I have an appreciation for both, but I’ve got no problem pushing my vehicle to its breaking point and then building it back stronger.
Hey buddy, I agree with you on every point. The "Everyday TJ" (my dads jeep) that I featured on my channel jeepNdirt is running 30/35 combo with 33's. He's looking to overland, water crossings, and maybe a few more aggressive trails especially now that he's seen your jeep on your channel (lol) but he'll be fine because as you mentioned there's so many components and things that go into that decision. With open diffs he has a bit of a safety factor. My 95 YJ that I'll be featuring soon was on 30/35 combo with lunch box lockers and 35 inch tires for years (over 95k miles) wheeling aggressive trails probably 10 times a year and basic trails the rest of the time before I finally broke the rear axle. At that point I had already built an 8.8 anticipating a future replacement and I did so right after that and haven't looked back since. With my YJ being the 95 it has the Dana 30 HP reverse cut design so it's actually pretty strong so I simply added chrome molly shafts with bigger U joints and one piece shaft conversion and it's a tank. I know I could get away with 37's but for me, it's a little overbuilt for 35's so that gives me alot of confidence if I have to bump over stuff.
Yeah, I'm excited to put it out there. I've had it for 26 years so trying to figure out how to theme the video. Not sure if I'm doing it like the TJ, or in depth casual review and build. @@_everydayoffroad_
Ford 8.8 is a very good rear axle upgrade. Add rear disk brakes with up grade to chromoly axles and an upgraded TL Dana 44 and 37's and a Rubicon transfer and with the wheeling most people do, you'll be fine. 300 M u joints should be just fine.
I’ve been on 37s with chromoly for 5 years with no issues. Being light is the key. Southeastern wheeling doesn’t have much traction. I’m with you, I’ll swap the axle when I break it.
Great discussion. I had been told that the only true way to get rid of death wobble is to upgrade the axles from stock. Any truth to this statement? As an example, let’s take a 99 TJ with 35’s, a four inch lift, and the upgraded linkage (tie rods, etc.), new steering box, which have all no play in them. Primarily driving around town with an occasional crawl.
stock control arms? from what i have seen the biggest reason people get death wobble is lifting their rig with stock control arms, it changes your caster too much so you need adjustable control arms to bring it back to spec. as far as having to upgrade from the stock axle i cant think of any reason at all that would be true. if everything is tight and in good shape the only thing thats going to be an issue ( as far as i know ) is going to be not having the proper caster. watch some videos explaining caster angle and while its important, it should be very easy to understand the problem then. proper caster is what makes your wheel want to return to center on its own and when driving down the road your tires will naturally want to run straight.
A useful video. The one thing I think you gloseed over is the ring gear in the Dana 30. You mention the risk of breaking it in a Dana 35 rear, but with the RCVs I think is definitely the weak point in your front axle.
@@beeteekay9117 I have a HP 30 I’m currently regearing to 4.56 to go with my 33” tires. Anything lower than that I feel like I’m taking a chance because of the tiny pinion with fewer teeth.
If you have adjustable control arms and can really center the rear axle in the wheel well, no sheet metal needs to but cut. I rub slightly on the back of the rear fender well, but not enough to cut it. The front requires highline fenders, but no cutting of the body.
@_everydayoffroad_ I have all 8 control arms replaced with fully adjustable JKS. Up front should be OK except the tire getting into the control arm when turning. The rear is where I'm most concerned. Did you remove the rear fender liners?
No advantage in a d44 front. 30 spline shafts n either. I have ran a built hpd30 for 20 years on 35 tires. Driving style is key. Still get up pretty much every thing a full body can in the south and plenty of buggy trails. RCV axles and brace it with a high pinion housing works great and is holding my 37 treps now.
Great talk, what ratio are you running with the 37's? I have an LJ with the stock 3.73 and want to bump up to 37's. Torn between 4.88 and 5.13. Trailer queen with some light intown use, no hwy.
I’m running 4.88’s. 5.13 is probably the optimal ratio for 37’s, however I tried to find a good balance between low gearing and tooth count on the front ring gear on the Dana 30. 4.88’s will have more teeth engaged with the pinion than 5.13 which will keep it slightly stronger. Either ratio will be fine for you though.
I run a 5:13 on 37s and its a daily in city and highway. Its perfect. D30 up front and D44 in rear. Smoked my 35 3 seperate times on the street. Last time I broke an axle and started doing 360s in the street almost rolling. If you have a 35, get rid of it. @@robbanks7393
I had 4.88 when I was on 33's. It was just ok, then I went to 35's, and 4.88 sucked!!! I was always hunting gears. I'm on 5.38 in my LJ now. I want to go 37's, but that will have to wait until I do my LT L84 swap. I'm not looking forward to cutting sheet metal.😊
I roll a little different than most I think. I run mild trails just to get to good fly fishing spots. No heavy wheeling maybe some water crossing. Overland camping/fishing. The stock 30/35 with 31x10.5 TeraFlex 2.5 inch lift seems to be doing fantastic
Finally some straight up honest advice! That's the first time I've heard (or read) someone giving axle upgrade advice based on wheeling style. For years I ran 37's on my YJ with a D30 and an 8.8 with 4.56s. I left the 30 open to reduce my chances of breaking. I also wheeled in the same manner as you and if I didn't get up the obstacle I went around (no winch at the time). Thanks for giving real advice to the people, if you drive your rig with some common sense you can enjoy your stock axles waaaay beyond what the keyboard warriors say.
Completely agree. Thanks for watching!
I really appreciate this video and having you explain with REAL world experience. Which is what most forums, social media, etc... are just noise. Since an agenda or pursuit of upgrade is being pushed. I bought my TJ as a way to jeep and not purchase a side by side. I have loved my jeep and continue to learn more after a 20yr off roading hiatus.
My goal for this video was to explain to the every day Jeep Owner that it’s not necessary to go out and drop $10k to run a bigger tire and have fun on the trail. Glad you enjoyed it
I’ve got the same set up on my TJ. Never broken anything. I go everywhere, I know my limits!
appreciate your review my guy!
Man thank you so much for all the awesome content. I’ve got an 03 tj in the same Khaki color as yours and you’ve become my inspiration for the build. I love how yours has really come together
Glad to hear I’ve been able to help! Thanks for watching the channel
Some people limit their wheeling to fit their vehicle. Other people build their vehicle to fit the limits of their wheeling. Neither is wrong. I have an appreciation for both, but I’ve got no problem pushing my vehicle to its breaking point and then building it back stronger.
Hey buddy, I agree with you on every point. The "Everyday TJ" (my dads jeep) that I featured on my channel jeepNdirt is running 30/35 combo with 33's. He's looking to overland, water crossings, and maybe a few more aggressive trails especially now that he's seen your jeep on your channel (lol) but he'll be fine because as you mentioned there's so many components and things that go into that decision. With open diffs he has a bit of a safety factor. My 95 YJ that I'll be featuring soon was on 30/35 combo with lunch box lockers and 35 inch tires for years (over 95k miles) wheeling aggressive trails probably 10 times a year and basic trails the rest of the time before I finally broke the rear axle. At that point I had already built an 8.8 anticipating a future replacement and I did so right after that and haven't looked back since. With my YJ being the 95 it has the Dana 30 HP reverse cut design so it's actually pretty strong so I simply added chrome molly shafts with bigger U joints and one piece shaft conversion and it's a tank. I know I could get away with 37's but for me, it's a little overbuilt for 35's so that gives me alot of confidence if I have to bump over stuff.
He’ll never have an issue with 33’s. Can’t wait to see the YJ!
Yeah, I'm excited to put it out there. I've had it for 26 years so trying to figure out how to theme the video. Not sure if I'm doing it like the TJ, or in depth casual review and build. @@_everydayoffroad_
I’m going through this debate right now for my YJ build!
Ford 8.8 is a very good rear axle upgrade. Add rear disk brakes with up grade to chromoly axles and an upgraded TL Dana 44 and 37's and a Rubicon transfer and with the wheeling most people do, you'll be fine. 300 M u joints should be just fine.
I’ve been on 37s with chromoly for 5 years with no issues. Being light is the key. Southeastern wheeling doesn’t have much traction. I’m with you, I’ll swap the axle when I break it.
Any thoughts on a pair of Dynatrac pro rock 44s on an LJ 5.7 hemi swap running 38x14.50s
Should be plenty of axle for 38’s. Even with the hemi
Great discussion. I had been told that the only true way to get rid of death wobble is to upgrade the axles from stock. Any truth to this statement? As an example, let’s take a 99 TJ with 35’s, a four inch lift, and the upgraded linkage (tie rods, etc.), new steering box, which have all no play in them. Primarily driving around town with an occasional crawl.
stock control arms? from what i have seen the biggest reason people get death wobble is lifting their rig with stock control arms, it changes your caster too much so you need adjustable control arms to bring it back to spec. as far as having to upgrade from the stock axle i cant think of any reason at all that would be true. if everything is tight and in good shape the only thing thats going to be an issue ( as far as i know ) is going to be not having the proper caster.
watch some videos explaining caster angle and while its important, it should be very easy to understand the problem then. proper caster is what makes your wheel want to return to center on its own and when driving down the road your tires will naturally want to run straight.
A useful video. The one thing I think you gloseed over is the ring gear in the Dana 30. You mention the risk of breaking it in a Dana 35 rear, but with the RCVs I think is definitely the weak point in your front axle.
I'll second that. I've had two broken r and p in a hp dana 30 with rcv 27 spline. Those shafts are incredibly strong
@@beeteekay9117did you break the ring gear on a high or low pinion Dana 30?
@@Kevin---kx3jy High pinion
@@beeteekay9117 I have a HP 30 I’m currently regearing to 4.56 to go with my 33” tires. Anything lower than that I feel like I’m taking a chance because of the tiny pinion with fewer teeth.
I'd like to know the details of what sheet metal needs to be cut for 37's.
I have a currie44 up front with ARB and 5.38. I'm running 35's now.
If you have adjustable control arms and can really center the rear axle in the wheel well, no sheet metal needs to but cut. I rub slightly on the back of the rear fender well, but not enough to cut it. The front requires highline fenders, but no cutting of the body.
@_everydayoffroad_ I have all 8 control arms replaced with fully adjustable JKS. Up front should be OK except the tire getting into the control arm when turning. The rear is where I'm most concerned. Did you remove the rear fender liners?
No I still have my fender liners.
No advantage in a d44 front. 30 spline shafts n either. I have ran a built hpd30 for 20 years on 35 tires. Driving style is key. Still get up pretty much every thing a full body can in the south and plenty of buggy trails. RCV axles and brace it with a high pinion housing works great and is holding my 37 treps now.
Good video. Does the 30 spline axle shaft kit from RCV also upgrade your spider gears? Or just the axle shafts?
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Are they 1541H or chromoly?
I'm having issues finding dana 44 fronts.
Can you help with where you got the parts
Great talk, what ratio are you running with the 37's? I have an LJ with the stock 3.73 and want to bump up to 37's. Torn between 4.88 and 5.13. Trailer queen with some light intown use, no hwy.
I have a LJ with 37s. 5.13s and don’t look back.
I’m running 4.88’s. 5.13 is probably the optimal ratio for 37’s, however I tried to find a good balance between low gearing and tooth count on the front ring gear on the Dana 30. 4.88’s will have more teeth engaged with the pinion than 5.13 which will keep it slightly stronger. Either ratio will be fine for you though.
I have 35s with 4.88s, I would definitely go lower if you’re wanting to run a 37.
I run a 5:13 on 37s and its a daily in city and highway. Its perfect. D30 up front and D44 in rear. Smoked my 35 3 seperate times on the street. Last time I broke an axle and started doing 360s in the street almost rolling. If you have a 35, get rid of it. @@robbanks7393
I had 4.88 when I was on 33's. It was just ok, then I went to 35's, and 4.88 sucked!!! I was always hunting gears.
I'm on 5.38 in my LJ now.
I want to go 37's, but that will have to wait until I do my LT L84 swap.
I'm not looking forward to cutting sheet metal.😊
Any advice on a good quality lube for 30/35s ? I need to do a jeep driveway service day lol
I’ve always run Lucas conventional
I thought u had the lift kit installed for you also and the gears? Did u install the lift to?
Originally had it put on at 4WP along with the gears but have since had the entire kit off the Jeep and redone by me.
did you regear
Yes
The Dana 30 is highly under rated. It is worlds better than the dana 35 in the rear.