Improve Your Comp Climbing | Louis Parkinson
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- Competition style bouldering is growing in popularity on the climbing scene, and looks like it's here to stay. If these typically dynamic, co-ordination type moves aren't your favourite style of climbing, Louis has some great tips for how to approach and break down a comp-style boulder!
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Totally agree. We have to keep trying all the styles. They all feed our bodies and challenge us in different ways.
One of the things I struggle with is any kind of dynamism. I've had a few minor hand injuries that limited me from dynamic moves, so I just became comfortable with static climbing very early until it snowballed into only static climbing. I suppose I need break that habit
Certain moves are also much harder (or close to impossible) when done statically, like when you try to slowly go up on one leg in a awkward position or go to a far handhold on an overhang
@@nkartashov lucky I have my height and +3 ape so a good portion of moves that require some dynamism can be done statically. Really the only dynamic moves I've mastered are the deadpoint, and the throw. But they're usually not far and so controlled that I hardly consider them dynamic
Super helpful thanks Louis
I'd love to get better at dynamic moves and dynamic climbing, gotta look around my gym and see if there are any problems geared towards it or try and cheat some others to practice it 😁
If you really don't like coordination style boulders, and your gym has a lot of them, you could also just give lead or top rope a go. It tends to have a lot less of these moves. You might like it, might not. Worth at least trying it out.
Yes!
I don't know if you mentioned this but what about in an actual competition where you can't try all the moves and feel the positions? Do you have any ideas on how to make your first go on a coordination dyno a flash, or learning the move faster?
I competed for awhile and I've always been frustrated with this style of climbing. So much more parkour than it is climbing in my opinion, its very flashy but its not a type of technique that will get you up many walls outdoors (as you mentioned). You'd have a bunch of people who can't climb particularly hard just jumping over and over again until they get the comp dyno that was rated too high. I feel the same way about speed climbing which is barely even climbing as much as it is advanced laddering. Unfortunately, I agree it seems I'm in the minority, so I'll just slink off to the corner with my slow static climbing style.
Comp climbing is cool to watch but my body doesn’t enjoy it. My fingers and knees don’t enjoy the sideways torque that volume standing and oddball dynos produce. But i am kinda old. (30’s! 😭)
Adam Ondra is almost 30 so I think you're fine lol. Just gotta work on full range of motion. I do feel you on the "torque-ness" tho
@Jonas Karlsson the recovery time my body needs from 28 to 34 is so much longer :( i don’t think of it as “old” either but damn, the body doesn’t want to keep up with the spirit sometimes. Its lame.
2:48 - That shoe needs to be resoled yesterday :)
Very nice video. I hate comp boulders, I just think they are just not as satisfying as other boulders to finally get done. In addition, all those falls and impacts by jumping into random positions is kind of dangerous (especially if you are on the heavier side/or more muscular). Then there is the situation, that body proposition is a huge factor. Some boulders are just easy for lengthy guys, but it is ridiculously difficult to have a boulder be just as difficult for people different sizes. That all not to say there is no space for comp style boulders, those are for sure needed to differentiate climbers, but, I think a good mix is needed for comps and especially commercial gyms.
For my taste, I would much rather prefer a bouldering competition like the Sisu masters, it is just more about the sport as we got to know it.
What shoes do you wear?
Looks like la sportiva theory. They are designed for indoor bouldering