1952 Willys Overland 4x4 Truck - Part 10, Tailgate and Brakes
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- Опубліковано 11 лют 2024
- 1952 Willys Overland Jeep Truck, Part 10;
Tailgate repair, metal fabrication, tailgate latch, tailgate chains and hooks, inspecting the brakes, brake drum puller, front brakes, rear brakes, brake pads, wheel cylinder, axle key, brake light switch, master cylinder, annealing copper washers, anneal copper. #willysjeep
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• 1952 Willys Overland 4...
• 1952 Willys Overland 4...
• 1952 Willys Overland 4...
• 1952 Willys Overland 4...
• 1952 Willys Overland 4...
• 1952 Willys Overland 4...
• 1952 Willys Overland 4...
• 1952 Willys Overland 4...
• 1952 Willys Overland 4...
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Recently puchased an Overland pickup, starting the restoration, these vodeos will surely help me a lot , thanks
Nice work on the tailgate. Love the longer episode.
Thanks! I enjoyed the longer video myself.
Great job on the tailgate! Brake drum and shoes look great 👍
Thanks!
It’s been a lot of years, but I’m pretty sure that the method taught to me in 1970s shop class (for removing, and resetting the big nut) was the chisel technique.
You did the right procedure by NOT trying to pull drum off by pulling on the edge of the drum. I put enough pressure on a small engine flywheel doing that to bend the fly wheel trying to get it off. I have to add that the flywheel probably hadn't been off since it was new in 1946.
Yes. Although I have never had that happen to me, I was aware of the possibility. Those drums were really on there tight!
Old Chrysler rear drums are built the same way. I've seen many struggles. You got through this one, but I have some tips for viewers who are facing more stubborn circumstances.
1) The tool you bought is the right one. There are others that are very similar, and they're good too, but it has to be heavy.
2) Grease the threads on the puller tool. This reduces parasitic friction and pulls more efficiently.
3) The anvil head has two pads. Use them both at the same time with two similar hammers (big ones).
4) Put a lot of heat on the hubs. Tension them with the puller, then torch them good and they'll pop.
5) Be careful with the wheel studs. Replacements might not be available (crazy but true).
Good advice! Thank you.
Good job, on the welding also..✅
BTW, we always have used bicycle tubes to cut to length and slid them over the chain 12:44 to keep them from clanking the tailgates of old pickups…!!! 👍👏🥳
Good idea. Thanks!
Nice work sir. Might I suggest checking out the old Willys forum. They know more about Willys rigs than Willys did.
Thank you. I bet they do!
Love it! That brake info is very helpful
Great, thank you!
Good work Erik, you've got a nice
interesting project there 👍
Thanks!
Awesome fabrication work on that tailgate latch ! Perfect !!
Thank you!
Like and subscription! 👍
Welcome and thank you!
There should be flat washers behind the shock absorber split pins. It's a PITA to compress the shock bushings but the split pins will cut the bushings. I'm local to you and can lend the tool to make this easier if you wish.
Thanks. Doesn’t seem like there’s room for a washer but I will look at them again tomorrow.
Obviously, you're a man of many talents. Excellent job. Eagerly waiting for the next episode.
Tailgate repair and "distressed" paint job were very impressive work! BTW, what model welding helmet did you get? And what settings did you use on your welder on that thin tailgate metal? Cheers.
Thanks Richard. Helmet is a Hobart No. 9-13. My welder is an older model Hobart handler 125. Wire feed about 30. Voltage switching between setting 2 and 3. It required a light touch for sure.
Nice work on the tailgate. Love the longer episode.
Thanks. The longer episode was fun.