Movie Boom operator here - The Rode NTG 8 is one of the longest shutgun mics ever, not at all made for indoor use. Honestly, you might be better off with a shorter one which would have a slightly broader pickup pattern and give you even more freedom of moving. Personally I use the Rode NTG 3 which still sounds awesome at almost a meter away from me. I have it set up in typical shotgun position over my head, halfway between me and the monitor and pointing straight at my nose. Of course, treating the room always helps as well. (Edit - spelling)
@@user-op8fg3ny3j This is not always the case, distance is not the only important factor. Example; my 10 y/o wired in ear headphones' built-in mic next to my mouth sounds a lot worse than my setup now. If a mic is built for distance (which is the case for shotgun mics), it should generally be fine - especially in a controlled environment like Linus' room. Also, a meter is not "very far away" for a shotgun mic. You can make these distances still sound good.
Dan continues to be my new favorite, he has such an air of confidence about him and a comforting presence. Like Dan shows up and you just know things are going to be fine.
@Олег Бёрт By following trades do you mean copying her trades,as its done in etoro? Are you giving her your money or the money stays on your account? I have heard about copying trades but have not looked into it but I have an idea of what it is.
Linus to Dan fixing the RGB strips: "This is not a table, I was hoping to use this monitor for something" Dan finding Linus in the next scene sitting on it: "Ah, its a chair"
Dude I seriously love Dan, he's my favorite crew addition in a very long time. I love his dry humor combined with his role as the resident problem fixer lol
It is incredible how good your team is. You have built such an amazing business with amazing environment and probably the best in their fields. Really envy all of you (in a good way)!
Linus!!! Just turn the key lights 180 and bounce them off the walls. You’ll get a much softer glow and shadow and way more even lighting. It’s such a simple fix. I’m not sure where along the lines people got the idea to beam the lights directly at your face 😅
@@N0N0111 Ceiling down lights create unpleasant and harsh face shadows. Need diffuse light from the front, above the head level. So key lights bounce off the walls is a great solution.
Because those lights are designed to do EXACTLY that. And if you have dark walls, it REALLY doesn't work, even if the lights aren't designed like those key lights. I've also seen the people that do it that way, their lighting looks horrendous.
yep i just use a tiny like 10 watt LED desklamp and shine it straight at the ceiling and get diffuse white light throughout my room. saves power AND looks and feels better than the actual room light.
This dude Dan is a life saver! I love it when there are people around who you contact with a problem and they just come to you with a solution and carry it through. Props
@@manual0103 I disagree Jake still is vital, It's just you know whatever it is, is about to be extremely, competently, solved when Dan shows up... I think they should give him his own gorilla type show, strap a camera on his head and let him film all the crazy things they ask him to fix.
Great video, I just don't think you understood how the electrician wired your shelves. The electrician didn't do anything wrong, the ran low voltage wiring to every shelf space and on the other end(your closet space) you have all of your low voltage cables and a single nmd90 14/2 with merrets on the end. The idea is when you have decided on your driver, the electrician would mount the driver, dress and fasten the loose cables away from the water and gas lines and then make the necessary terminations. Having diffusers already installed and with low voltage wips(length of cable located for terminating the strips)already in place, it was well thought out. I believe the receptacle is just for plugging in anything you want in. Ps you guys have an awesome show!😁
This is exactly what they did, exactly how it is done professionally, biggest complaint I have about dealing with customers like Linus is they think they know a lot more than they do and when looking at something that isn't finished they can jump to conclusions and come up with back assward solutions to solve the problem. A much simpler solution to this would be to buy the correct led tape lights and an LED controller that can control them all at once and be installed inside that small area where it was intended.
@@crunchbar777 Yes, the install is all wrong. From a professional theatre/film set lighting pov. Run 5 core to each shelf and have a small rack of RGBW controllers. City Theatrical make some really nice ones. OR use pixiel tape and map and control with a media server.
For the RGBs, using WLED on a QuinLED Dig and 12v sk6812 LED strip is my favorite setup so far! A Dig Uno can control ~500-600 pixels so you could most likely get the whole cabinet lit with one controller (depending on the strip density). Definitely worth checking out.
SK6812 are 5V. Any 5V strip would be fine as I assume he won’t care about individual pixels for a bookshelf. WLED would be way better than this though, I agree. Problems with large LED quantities would be 1) connecting them together as they’re not really wired for that and 2) power injection. He’d have been better off with some cheap WLED controllers like the Athom (the small one). It would be smaller and easier to hide than that massive box. I’d also have gone for a higher pixel density - 60/m minimum
Maaan, if one random towel is dropped on that brick, they are gonna have a bad time. Not to mention a kid might touch that. I hope they really thought this through
@@ThePixel1983 no way is he measuring 190*C anywhere. Maybe 88*C (190F) PSU which is cooking inside. I wouldn’t trust that PSU depending where it came from & who made it. So much electronics & sometimes mixed with water running in rooms with no one watching… there’s going to be a house fire eventually.
No way is he measuring 190*C. Maybe 88*C (190F) PSU which would be cooking inside. That PSU looks like it might be janky. So many electronics items running unsupervised… I wouldn’t be surprised if there was an electrical fire eventually.
Awwww Linus! I do cabinetry lighting like this for a living. The contractor ALMOST had it nailed! You do want the aluminum tracks, you do want the wiring ran to a single location like it was, however, you wanted it to be an 18/3 cable (power, ground, and data). I like to run them to Quindig Controllers running WLED. Use BTF Lighting SK2812’s 60LED/M with warm white channel (you can make the color cooler by adding in the RGB combination if you need to). When you solder your wires to the RGBW strips, use 3/8” optically clear adhesive lined heatshrink to protect the solder joints. This clear heatshrink can cover the first LED in the strip just fine and won’t change the light pattern as its optically clear. Use Meanwell 5V PSU’s and you’d be set! You should look into it!!!!!
@@jpw5996 I would still sell them for half the price he paid for them and replace it all with a WLED setup instead. It's truly a no brainer. Not only that I'm pretty sure he used a zwave controller at each and every single strip. Where he probably could have used a couple ESP32 to control every strip in the unit. Wife didn't seem thrilled about seeing control boxes or power supplies in the cubbies. I would have also went with something much higher amps and not a brick like he purchased in case I wanted to add something else later on. Not only that what kind of control will you get out of those zwave kits? I'm sure you can get it working with home assistant but what if you wanted to say add it into something through e1.31, DMX, UDP, or any lighting software like artemis, openrgb, etc? I made myself a 10 port ARGB hub using WLED and ESP32 so i would have a hub i could connect 9 fans and my cooler ARGB independently controlled. This pairs nicely with my under desk strips, ceiling strips, and 3d printed ARGB signs. Heres my office using all WLED stuff. ua-cam.com/video/LMyi9RYDg1Q/v-deo.html Ceiling lights were turned off because my camera was washed out with the light from it also.
@@krown466 Selling will be hard with all those plugs desoldered. Also i dont think everybody needs the type of control you are speaking about. Most people are fine with setting a color with alexa or their smartphone and leaving it at that. (we are not them and its fine, but you cant expect everyone to tinker with this that much.) Not to mention the additional difficulties you have with going to 5V that other people already pointed out. Linus said in the video he wont change the 2 pole cables, so it really isnt an option anyways...
@@jpw5996 if they’re straight into a cabinet behind that wall he may be able to tape on an 18/3 to the 2 wire and pull new wire straight in without any gutting. This is Linus I would assume he’d want patterns and effects and better integration than just a z-wave controlled basic single color setup.
@@krown466 you’re right, control it with HomeAssistant WLED integration and a zwave dongle to speak back to his switches or whatever other type of control schema he has....
If you want something fun since you're using Home Assistant to change your light colour, you CAN setup automations for your lights to be whatever colour you'd like and then use the Home Assistant API functions and your stream deck to call that automation to change your lights however you want while streaming 🙂
Just a heads up Linus. The AW3423DW has been having some relatively minor software problems. If you were sent the original firmware version MOB01, some people are having problems with the "pixel refresh" popup shutting off power to the display after it runs instead of going back to standby. It also counts standby time towards the refresh timer. So you can use the monitor for a bit, step away for a few minutes, monitor will go into standby and run pixel refresh, and then turn itself off. It will require you to hit the power button to turn it back on. Dell originally was saying this was "intended" for power saving reasons, but then reneged on it and have fixed it in a newer firmware MOB02. The problem is they have chosen not to provide a user side firmware update option with the monitor. The ONLY solution is to send the monitor back and get a replacement. In a premium monitor from a premium company it's totally unacceptable to not allow user side firmware updates. This seems to be becoming more common. Would love to see a video on some of these flaws and pressure Dell to cut it out and provide a user side firmware update option. There's also fan noise on a lot of these (like clicking) that can be very noticeable in a quiet room. I've never heard of a monitor with fan noise. They say it's normal. Otherwise it's the best monitor I've ever owned, plays incredible, looks incredible, but again at the price I don't expect these flaws and the no firmware updates thing is unacceptable. www.dell.com/community/Alienware-Desktops/AW3423DW-please-let-us-update-firmware/td-p/8222694
@@jkteddy77 I did the return and they overnighted a new monitor to me. The software issues were fixed minus the not able to update thing. Problem I had with the new one is I have the fan noise problem. My original was actually silent. I don't want to return it again out of a similar fear to you that they send a refurb instead of new...
Linus: *Gets on his employee's cases for all the stuff stolen from the office* Also Linus: *Proudly talks about all the stuff stolen from work he's using in his upgraded setup* Linus: "Why are you using this monitor as a table?" Also Linus: *Uses the monitor as a chair* This video was hilarious
Because he thinks he's better than them. Shame how so many workers support the petty bourgeoisie while they profit off them. All private businesses are unethical. Only three types of firm should exist, sole proprietorships, coops, and state enterprises.
Sounds like you might need a 3d printed support for your HDMI issue with the sony camera. I have done some for USB-C connections in laptops which have worked out really well. Different concept and connection but should be able to attach a support for the end of that cable on the top of the camera and supporting that HDMI wire coming out of it.
Well, i have an A7S2 and they come with a HDMI support bracket by default. Not sure why canadian relase missed that part. They are a 2 point screw-in, body has a special mounts for them. Also, Getting a CAGE around A7S2 with a clip-in cable would solve the problem. Mounting a flex Micro to normal HDMI adapter would be even better as you're putting all stress on big HDMI connection. So, i'm kinda surprised LTT had that problem (using a7s2 for over 5 years, def. not lightly - no problems with HDMI. USB on the other hand...
I started streaming about a year ago, my partner does filming and editing and we are musicians with lots of equipment at home so I had a good choice of microphones and cameras. I straight away went with a smaller Rode NTG4+ microphone cause I knew I did not want a mic to be visible on camera or to be right in front of my face because I too fidget a lot during streams. I often get people commenting on how good my sound is and people amazed that there is no mic to be seen. I happen to use the same camera as Linus gets here, it's my partners main camera and it's amazing. We have a charger that goes into the battery slot as if you use just a charging cable whilst the battery is in I think it cuts that batteries life so this way it gets powered without the need for a battery. Super psyched to see Linus go with a similar set up to my own, highly recommend the microphone decision however there are much smaller boom style microphones such as the Rode NTG series that won't take up so much space. Also, what is a table?
The problem with shotgun microphones for a desk setup, and something I wish was tested in the video, is that they will pick up keyboard noise. You can use something like Nvidia Broadcast to fix that but it's still not ideal since that affects your voice quality as well
The biggest problem with Nvidia Broadcast in my opinion is not the voice quality (because your voice is already compressed in Discord), it's the added latency. When I'm playing RL with comms, I disable my Nvidia Broadcast to reduce latency.
Use the existing in wall wiring to pull through a 6 conductor cable, even something like cat6, then solder the ends of the cat6 to the strips and have the control boxes in the closet. Gives the clean installation you're looking for and is fairly simple and straightforward.
You DONT want 5V aRGB fwiw, (for architectural installs, keep reading before disagreeing) 24 V is ideal actually if there’s just a single supply. It’s because each led the voltage passes through it lowers a bit, such that the 5-> 4.9-> 4.8 … until the voltage is below the minimum to turn on the leds (typically white is effected first and red last). You can get about 60 leds before droop kills you, but at full brightness as few as 30. You can “inject” power in both ends, but it’s a pain. With 24 V that slow decline takes MUCH longer to fall below the ~2.9V for green and white, to the 1.8 v on red( the most efficient led and lowest voltage) (also yes I know leds are current run and not voltage dependent, but they do require a minimum forward voltage to start to pass current and light up- aRGBs have an IC inside each led that handles the decoding of the signal and pwm for each color) and you can power several hundred leds in a strand. I made a big mistake buying lots of 5v strands. My thought was 5V is easy, and logic usually wants 5v but it’s wrong, and Linus is wrong here. I learned this the hard way. A strand if 100 5v is worthless unless you apply 5v to BOTH ends and even then the middle can droop at max brightness. A good installation should use at LEAST the 12 V type. He’s used to computer cases, not architectural installs where you only run 2-3 feet max, and then droop is not an issue at all. You can still measure it though. Measure the voltage at the end and see how far it’s off 5V. This produces a VERY noticeable effect in these poorly planned 5 volts where what ever color you set turns progressively more red (which only takes about 1.8 V to work) and the colors shifts noticeably across the strand. As mentioned power injection is an option, resupplying 5v every 100 leds or so, it will boost the voltage on both sides of the injection point. But it’s a lot more wires to run and you can’t just plug it into the driver board and then run it around the room. 24 V you can get quite far. They also make 48V I believe - more for Christmas lighting and large products and ones that run at 110V by putting two leds in anti parallel and a large dropping resistor, but I don’t recommend these as mains voltage in a flexible Chinese circuit strip sounds like a fire hazard to me, though I have some of these too.
I love the open, that was great! Linus must really be losing it with all the stuff going on all at once in his, and his families, life atm. Here's to hoping we have a sane Linus after the dust settled!
For those with LG OLEDs that want to reduce burn-in without a janky program, In Windows: Power & Sleep setting > "When plugged in, turn off after" > Never Screen Saver > Blank > Wait > (Your preference, mine is set to 3 minutes) TV will be off for all intents and purposes, then In LG TV Menu: General > System > Time & Timer > Timers > Power Off Timer > On > (Time of your choosing, mine is 11pm) > Timer repeat > Every Day That way when you're outside of the hours you are using the display, it will turn itself off so it's not "on" 24/7.
I would have used bare ws2812b led strips with esp32's running WLED for the RGB strips. It's cheaper much more customizable controllable from home assistant locally and open source. For a kind of out of the box solution you can buy or build a quinLED board.
This. I also just found out about WLED and i love it. very easy to install and customise and control over your WLAN. Also only needs 5V and only one microcontroller for like up to 4000 leds. Only thing one should not forget ist to use fuses in front of any led segment (in general not just with WLED and ws2812b) since bigger power supplies internal fuse may not trip when a short inside the led strip occours -just to be on the safe side
@@z1dlukasw.666 Realistically you can do around 800 per port with 4 ports so 2400 before it is not abel to sustain the target 42 fps. And there is a limit of around 1200 LEDs if you use ledmaps for now in version 13.2.
@@patrickpopp9197 also completly true, the 4000 was more a theoretical max. it was just more or less to prove a point, that there is no need for a control box on every shelf whilst still keeping the control over each segment /shelf individually.
Yep, after doing a shitload of research last year, this is pretty much exactly what i landed on. The one thing that surprised me the most was how much Wattage you need to supply longer lengths of LED’s. kinda blew my mind.
for optical hdmi (2.1), I used a phoossno gen2 cable I grabbed off Amazon. Comes in up to 20m, and the gen2 version will do 4K 120Hz + VRR with RTX 3000 series on my LG CX
Something to consider when using a 4k TV as a monitor: mine is about 50 inches (48 maybe, I don’t remember). I split off the bottom right corner to be a 1440p “monitor.” That leaves basically a 1280x2160 vertical “monitor” on the left side and a 2560x720 “monitor” on the top right. It actually works really well. I use fancyzones in powertoys to snap things into those windows, and just run games in windowed mode on the 1440p section.
Hey Linus, a good trick for streaming lights: bounce them off the wall. Much easier on the eyes, and a nice softer look. Also, for indoors, I'd recommend a hyper-cardioid mic (looks like a short shotgun) like the Audio-Technica AT4053B.
"I don't want multiple monitors at home" Yup, I get it! I always used multiple monitors for college and now at work, and coming home to just one nice monitor feels.. relaxed. It just kinda helps you relax and just do one thing at a time. Like for years I would always be watching a video while browsing, and have task manager open and all that, but just one thing at a time makes you feel so much less busy.
Monitor stuff aside, this reminds me of how David used to have a super-expensive camera for streaming before switching to a webcam. I guess even for Linus, there’s such a thing as overkill.
Ok, I've never been more sold on OLED than after seeing the monitor from 10:12 onwards- in a best kind of sense, it looks like someone just pasted the screencap on a take from actual camera, no viewing angles, no glow... love it! Shame I can't afford it but you know, details
I'm with Linus on this one. On my personal PC I like to just do one thing at a time as well. It's a habit from the old days when RAM was much more limited and CPUs were all single core, it was helpful to religiously close out programs that you weren't actively using. However, it also helps me focus on the thing I'm doing at the moment.
I turn off my extra monitor when I'm playing a single player game, but if I'm playing multiplayer games I keep discord on my vertical side monitor. If I streamed I would definitely use my side monitor to do chat/obs/etc.
Great video. I prefer the 34" ultrawide. TV's just don't cut it. I was regretting my 34" UW purchase when I saw some people using 43" top notch TV's instead, but after seeing sacrifices, I will stick with my 34" UW. I tried hooking it up to 65" 4k TV in living room just to see difference, and sat back appropriate distance, but I could not get used to it. The rest of your choices I agree with. But it's your setup, so it's your choice! Enjoy! You deserve it! (PS: I really like your planned family gaming room downstairs!)
The typical reason for not using shotgun microphones indoors is to prevent phase issues. The concept is similar to noise cancellation and the shotguns use this to create their narrow pickup pattern. The longer, the more extreme this effect. In a well treated and large room, this isn't a big issue, but I'd still use a small shotgun or even pencil style microphone for your use case instead. Just like the other commenter Nils Gröne pointed out, those shorter mics will also give you a broader pickup area and allow you to move around more.
Shotgun mic is a *bad idea* in an acoustically untreated room. Because of how shotguns mics work (interference tube), and because of all the reflections in that small room, there's a high risk you'll encounter severe comb filtering at the mic, which will result in a thin, hollow sound with spiky artifacts. Shotguns are best used outdoors or in large spaces without any early reflections. If you're dead set on a shotgun then you will have to treat your walls with ample broadband absorption. Otherwise your best bets are a) a headset mic because that's always at your talk hole, or b) the boom mic you already have because it's fine and because moving the mic is not a big deal. c) an overhead pencil condenser just out of frame like on a studio set. This will also require a treated room for best results. Also, your reasoning defeats itself. A narrow pickup pattern is exactly the opposite of what you want if you're moving around a lot.
Agreed, condenser is 100% the way to go. He’ll forget it’s even there. Unless he has an air conditioner, then he’ll want a switch to block out the lower rumble or pass it through some post processing
@@tc2241 Well, the NTG-8 *is* a condenser mic. I think what you're trying to say is that a shotgun is 100% the way to avoid. Just use a regular-sized cardioid mic, whether it's a condenser or dynamic is less relevant to the matter at hand.
@@BoGusaddy Yes, also that. If Linus insists on a shotgun mic then there are much more space-appropriate (i.e. shorter) options available from Rode and others. He'll still have to treat his room, of course.
My setup is flexible: I use a side-address studio condenser on a boom arm. I keep it pointed at the general vicinity of my mouth from 8-to-12 inches away at about a 45°-60° angle so I don't get pops and it's not up in my grill or obstructing my view. My room is carpeted and full of stuff so it's pretty dead and it sounds perfectly good for gaming and calls. I have a headset mic plugged into my Philips SHP9500 headphones. I can switch seamlessly between speakers and headphones, and between boom and headset mic, in any combination, depending on what I'm doing and how I want to work or play. Works a treat.
Just saying, you might want to put some heatsink or something to cool that power brick down if you don't want to burn the house down. I'm sure the experience from the Steam Deck heatsink will help with that ;) Personally, I remember putting an old, massive chipset heatsink on my monitor power brick (using thermal epoxy) due to it literally toasting my other cables and table, I had burnmarks on my old desk (luckily no fire, but still dangerous enough to burn the house down). Since I upgraded to a new desk, I luckily never needed the heatsink again (mostly different cable management and the management rack being metal). Still has a heatsink though! (for nostalgia reasons hehe)
@@25566 They never showed the finished product, I think they kept it as a joke using the one brick, but pretty damn sure Dan isn't an idiot that will burn the house down.
I had chose the alienware, big enough but not too big, curved (for gaming very good, at least for me) and brighter. Not to mention the no need for remote and better integration for pcs
@G Money Curve is a big win though, I currently run the 38in Alienware ultrawide and it's awesome, but prefer my lg cx 55's colors/blacks.. Probably going to replace the Alienware 38 with the 34 qoled but it's a tough choice
@G Money You don't need a remote for a monitor and there's nothing wrong with a curved display for a single user sitting in front of it. I honestly miss my curved samsung monitor ever since switching to my Gigabyte M27Q. The corners look so much further away. You're paying "more" for higher refresh rate even at 10 bit (although I'd prefer 8 bit 175hz), display port, higher brightness, better colors, and a more reasonable resolution for gaming that you can actually push up to 175fps on. And I say "more" in quotes because idk what scam site you're looking on, but the C2 has been $1400 up until a few weeks ago in which it came down to it's current price of $1250.
As for micro hdmi (video guy here) We use clamps for the cable. It's like a tripod plate but extends sideways and has a little screw that keeps the cable in place. We just store it with an micro to normal hdmi adapter screwed in at all times. No broken ports since. You could also use something like a cage that has said cable/connector holder
I had a thought recently, that these days homes should additionally to 120/240V AC be wired with 24V DC out of the box. The sheer amount of big transformers in even bigger power bricks you have for your countless electronic devices in your house should easily justify the cost of additional copper. And just imagine the convenience of plugging essentially everything directly into the wall. I know there are 24V circuits in some offices/schools, but they should get much more popular in homes as well.
24V is popular for LED lighting, but you'd need a beefy power supply and a breaker box just for all the 24V circuits in the house if they became commonplace. Better to use a dedicated 24V power supply for each 24V appliance. Oh, and 24V LED lighting circuits are often 24V AC. It sounds great until you start thinking about it. If you have, particularly, a lot of 24V appliances, they will need to draw more current to use the same amount of power as they would at 120V. This means beefier wires will be needed if you wanted to be able to push 1,800W through a 24V circuit to match a standard 15A 120V circuit. That would be 75A; you'd need 3 AWG wire to handle it (with three conductors). SMPSs have gotten very cheap and very efficient as well, removing the need to supply appliances with lower voltages, because they are super efficient at converting one voltage to another. One problem they have is noise, though. Anything sensitive to noisy power rails will need a linear power supply, but that's not quite relevant.
The problem is, the lower the voltage, the more losses you get from the same amount of length of cable. Which is why 5V can't be transmitted over long lengths, or rather, it's super ineffective to do
On an efficiency front, the line losses outweigh potential savings from a single larger supply, especially since supplies are most efficient at approx 80% load. Then you have the problem of not having a universal DC power connector, and the electrocution dangers of DC due to the clamp factor, and you end up with it really only making sense if you have solar or a central battery system where you can avoid having multiple conversion steps for the added efficiency in supplying the power. Of course, if home DC wiring becomes more common, it's going to require revisions to current electrical code, and likely will mean that the LVDC cabling that's traditionally exempt from most of the code requirements will end up being regulated just as closely.
It's totally worth it though. Problems asside, I never want to go back to having a space heater PC in the same room as myself. I'm using active extensions/repeater cables instead of the more expensive optical stuff linus has.
@@ikkuranus I have my PC pretty much next to a window, and due to the orrientation of my house it can't rain into the house via that window so when I game that window is open. Works pretty well! Though my house ventilatates very well. opening the door drops the temp of that room considerably. also because the door to the attic is also always open, as is the doors to the bedrooms with open top windows and often open bottom windows too.
@@ikkuranus having enough ventilation to handle a bit of heat in the summer is an easier problem to solve than all the remote issues. (Imo) But my systems over the last 10yrs have usually drawn somewhere around ~250-300w under an uncapped gaming workload. So if I had like a 3090/12900k that might change things, idk
You should have requested 2 core flex cable to each shelf. With a void where the cable comes through, so that you can crimp the flex cable onto the led tape ‘tails’ and then lose the excess cable and crimps into the void
For the leds, I have a tip :) WLED Buuut it is for the hobbyist or a Dan to set it up. Not too difficult but you could make it completely perfect. Short leads and everything. One controller if you wanted to and just one power brick :)
You mean the microcontroller software and cell phone app? Yes that is great. I spent months writing my own and then discovered the excellent WLED project that was leaps and bounds above my own, so I just switched to that. For those wondering, you take an esp32 or esp8266 and you can even flash it from the browser (no idea how they managed that!) and then just pick a data pin(or several) and connect that to the data pin on the strand, the voltage goes to the led, check if your esp board can handle 12v Vin with it’s onboard 3.3 v regulator ( it might burn out trying to dump the extra voltage as heat) and you can power both, or get a $1 buck 12v to 5v or 3.3v converter to power the esp board. Requires no microcontroller knowledge at all, but perhaps a touch of very simple soldering.
Oh gosh just got to the end of the video, he has 10 different controller boxes. To adjust color/brightness for the whole wall will be such a hassle. Mine as well just have gone with the single color strip, the wife approval rating will drop to zero after learning how the RGB is adjusted. It's too impractical, c'mon Linus!
@@altimmons Yep! Exactly! Tho I used a 5V rgbww strip instead. You can connect both to a simple 5V psu. Works like a charm. One thing that I would suggest is putting a fixed ip on the controller. Without, the controller sometimes bugs out and you lose your connection. I also have seen people intergrate WLED with home assistant. But I'm not sure to what extent that is possible but for Linus's smart home that would also be a improvement as well. (edit: grammer)
@@blakeXYZ Not just that but the interface that this is using, linus needed to adjust the numbers of the xolors to get a new color. That's soo much worse then wled. And probably less responsive not to mention the controllers you were talking about😂😂
21:40 your solution here isn't great. The TV actually needs to switch off to use its pixel refresher. While just displaying a blank screen is better than leaving it showing a picture, this will still encourage image retention.
Per Rtings: "An 'automatic' pixel refresh runs when the TV is turned off after four hours of cumulative usage. This requires the power to be connected, and LG has told us that this takes between 7 and 10 minutes to complete. As a result, this pixel refresh is automatically run at each power cycle... "
10:50 The bezel being too thin and the stand of the Webcam is cutting into the screen, I feel that. I have the same Webcam, a Logitech Brio 4K, and on my screen the stand also cuts into the screen area, so I put a DS game card of some Shovelware game I had laying around as a spacer.
Ah yes all my normal friends order $1000 monitors to AB test and scrutinize with their multi thousand dollar computers and cameras. Just cracking a cold one with the relatable bois.
You are talking about a youtuber who purposefully modeled a professional studio to imitate a kitchen, so people feel like they are still filming in an actual kitchen ;))
“I’m tired of having to always be so close to my condenser mic” **Picks possibly the most directional shotgun microphone** Time for something cardioid or a pencil mic!
As an electrician, that's exactly what I do when homeowners request LED strip lighting. Hide the driver somewhere, usually I'm using a 200W from LED world (out of Canadia) Run a low voltage 2 wire cable to the shelf/cabinet Install white LED strip in an aluminum channel with defuser (also from LED world) for a backlight Although, I always run a switch leg from a normal switch box to power the driver, so they can dim the lights. If you had specified RGB lighting, I would have asked to get with the cabinet guy on design, and designed in a false back panel to cleanly hide all the extra crap that comes with RGB rather than just a normal white light. Or, you could have had a removable wooden panel for the back wall of the closet to access it from that side.
Drill some holes so you can run one long strip through multiple shelf areas. Also you've put that box in the top left corner, when the top right is far less visible.
Depending on the led strip type I wouldn't try to do each shelf individually. You can get a different power supply to make powering the lights and controllers neater, but you still need a controller for each strip and then run power to each controller. Instead, I would segment it, based on either vertical or horizontal shelves. I.e every column or row is controlled by a single controller and you can wire power into one strip and then out to the other in the same segment. This makes wiring easier and reduces the number of controllers and as such cost/complexity is reduced. Further, are you really going to change your lighting on a per shelf basis? You can do that and you can create groups in your software to help make it easier, but it can still be a bit of a mess controlling all those individual shelves. If you do go that route I recommend a large power supply and some type of power distribution block that you can put in a cabinet with doors that way it is out of sight. Also, 24v led strips are typically preferable as you can run lower current with the increased voltage. Edit, just watched further and saw the input power is coming into a closet, that's actually really good. Place your 24 volt PSU in the closet and get the wiring out of sight. For anyone looking to do something similar you can use an Ender 3D printer power supply as those are 24 volts, keep in mind if the load is low there is a chance the PSU will make a bit of a hum. I offer this suggestion as microcenter sells meanwell power supplies as people will often upgrade them from the stock PSU that the printer comes with from the factory.
Btw. The LG C2 has instantaneous power on with the remote. So I really like using the remote for turning it on and off. The only issue, is that it brings up this WebOS overlay on the lower half of the screen for a few seconds, which LTT's solution bypasses. I run a dedicated hifi with HDMI ARC, so I can also control the volume with the TV-remote. I am really happy using this setup for my gaming PC, as I don't much else on the PC except gaming. However, I also use the C2 and hifi for watching YT, playing music, watching TV-shows etc.
Dialogue mics are more suited to your purpose than a shotgun mic. I use an Oktava MK-012 personally and love it, but there's lots of dialogue mics out there and they're great for out of the way quality audio if you're not necessarily looking for that radio broadcast sound.
As far as microphone goes, you should really look into a small diaphragm condenser microphone. This will do a better job at getting a more natural sounding reverb in the room without any coning effect. It will also allow you to have a little more freedom of movement and you want to be as still for to sound good
Yup. Small encil-style condensers are best way to go to get perfect audio indoors. Rode NT5, Oktava MK012 etc.. Shotguns is causing all phase issues indoors because of voice that is bouncing around. It is only suitable for long distance outdoor shooting when you want to grab audio from couple meters away.
To stop the HDMI ports breaking the best option, I think, is to cage the camera, then clamp the hdmi cable and use a male to female adapter like the SmallRig 3021 Micro HDMI 2.0 adapter. Having a permanent adapter attached to your camera will mean you break the $10 adapter well before you break the HDMI port, leaving the clamp to be your safety net for the Micro HDMI port on the camera
21:20 I'm using a 4k LCD TV as a monitor for almost 5 years now, i don't know why this a problem. however, in an OLED display it is better. simply use a screen saver to display a blank screen, you kill much of the power consumption.
Dan the man. Saving the day. Riley needs to give him his own theme like Brian the Electrician.
didn't Riley quit ?
Didn’t Brian stop doing electrical and switch to more HVAC? Needs a new theme song
@@kevinwaag9976 I don't think so. He's on a recent short circuit video
Dan the Handy Man!
"No fire yet. YET."
Movie Boom operator here - The Rode NTG 8 is one of the longest shutgun mics ever, not at all made for indoor use. Honestly, you might be better off with a shorter one which would have a slightly broader pickup pattern and give you even more freedom of moving. Personally I use the Rode NTG 3 which still sounds awesome at almost a meter away from me. I have it set up in typical shotgun position over my head, halfway between me and the monitor and pointing straight at my nose. Of course, treating the room always helps as well.
(Edit - spelling)
@Linus
Brother finally found his moment to shine
@@OmwamiOmusakhulu facts lol
Yeah, you'll have all sorts of fun phasing issues using a long shotty in an interior. I've used my NTG2 with my PC as well, works great.
@@user-op8fg3ny3j This is not always the case, distance is not the only important factor. Example; my 10 y/o wired in ear headphones' built-in mic next to my mouth sounds a lot worse than my setup now. If a mic is built for distance (which is the case for shotgun mics), it should generally be fine - especially in a controlled environment like Linus' room. Also, a meter is not "very far away" for a shotgun mic. You can make these distances still sound good.
Dan continues to be a favourite for me. He's like the incredibly patient, but long-suffering Dad, who just gets on with things
Dan continues to be my new favorite, he has such an air of confidence about him and a comforting presence. Like Dan shows up and you just know things are going to be fine.
He's the Harry to Linus' Marv.
@Олег Бёрт By following trades do you mean copying her trades,as its done in etoro? Are you giving her your money or the money stays on your account? I have heard about copying trades but have not looked into it but I have an idea of what it is.
the spam bots are evolving
I love his mysterious “I’m a serial killer” vibe.
@@person-yq8di yeah I even enjoy reading these fake conversations now.
Linus to Dan fixing the RGB strips:
"This is not a table, I was hoping to use this monitor for something"
Dan finding Linus in the next scene sitting on it:
"Ah, its a chair"
I can see an ltt store product akin to the cpu pillow but "the monitor box table/chair"
@@smellyfis omg you are onto something here
and when they go back to Dan he's still using a box as a table just a different box LOL
@@smellyfis I can dare to use monitor box with monitor in it as table but chair is another level of confidence. I guess it's a rich-goals
Comments never disappoint... coming here to type exactly this, lol 😄
Dude I seriously love Dan, he's my favorite crew addition in a very long time. I love his dry humor combined with his role as the resident problem fixer lol
Covid lockdown beard was the best decision linus made.
Agreed
so true
True
Based
True
I hope Dan is appreciated, the dude is a star!
SUMMON DAN!
I hope he checked the current draw on that brick as he wont be popular if he burns the bloody house down !
Yup, Dan has become one of my favorites on camera, he seems like a really cool dude!
they are all stars is a constellation
@@andymouse I disagree, I think he'd be immensely popular!
It is incredible how good your team is. You have built such an amazing business with amazing environment and probably the best in their fields. Really envy all of you (in a good way)!
Dan managing to set up his soldering station on the one box they needed was incredibly amusing to me
Timestamp for those who don't watch the whole video: 8:02
What’s also kinda funny is Linus saying it’s not a table then moments later using it as a chair
@@nanoofficial5935 and it is "Curved" because Linus sat on it
Linus!!! Just turn the key lights 180 and bounce them off the walls. You’ll get a much softer glow and shadow and way more even lighting. It’s such a simple fix. I’m not sure where along the lines people got the idea to beam the lights directly at your face 😅
Probably a habit from the studio, since that's how they do their studio lighting.
@@N0N0111 Ceiling down lights create unpleasant and harsh face shadows. Need diffuse light from the front, above the head level. So key lights bounce off the walls is a great solution.
Because those lights are designed to do EXACTLY that. And if you have dark walls, it REALLY doesn't work, even if the lights aren't designed like those key lights. I've also seen the people that do it that way, their lighting looks horrendous.
yep i just use a tiny like 10 watt LED desklamp and shine it straight at the ceiling and get diffuse white light throughout my room. saves power AND looks and feels better than the actual room light.
@@williameldridge9382 Do you know which lights those are?
This dude Dan is a life saver! I love it when there are people around who you contact with a problem and they just come to you with a solution and carry it through. Props
Blows my mind how quickly Dan became the "rock" upon which all things Linus stands...Love it
RIP Jake
@@manual0103 I disagree Jake still is vital, It's just you know whatever it is, is about to be extremely, competently, solved when Dan shows up... I think they should give him his own gorilla type show, strap a camera on his head and let him film all the crazy things they ask him to fix.
more like linus sits
Great video, I just don't think you understood how the electrician wired your shelves. The electrician didn't do anything wrong, the ran low voltage wiring to every shelf space and on the other end(your closet space) you have all of your low voltage cables and a single nmd90 14/2 with merrets on the end. The idea is when you have decided on your driver, the electrician would mount the driver, dress and fasten the loose cables away from the water and gas lines and then make the necessary terminations.
Having diffusers already installed and with low voltage wips(length of cable located for terminating the strips)already in place, it was well thought out. I believe the receptacle is just for plugging in anything you want in. Ps you guys have an awesome show!😁
This is exactly what they did, exactly how it is done professionally, biggest complaint I have about dealing with customers like Linus is they think they know a lot more than they do and when looking at something that isn't finished they can jump to conclusions and come up with back assward solutions to solve the problem. A much simpler solution to this would be to buy the correct led tape lights and an LED controller that can control them all at once and be installed inside that small area where it was intended.
@@crunchbar777 Yes, the install is all wrong. From a professional theatre/film set lighting pov. Run 5 core to each shelf and have a small rack of RGBW controllers. City Theatrical make some really nice ones. OR use pixiel tape and map and control with a media server.
“Is that not already, like, a bar of diffused lighting or something?“
“No, this is a bar of being a bar.”
Linus’ banter is still top-tier, I see.
Linus: "This is not a table."
Also Linus: Let's use this as a chair!
I was gonna comment exactly that!
Underrated
This
This was my thought too
That’s how you curve your monitor
I want Linus to have an Intel Extreme Upgrade, and someone to come over and judge him for all the stuff LINUS took home from the office.
Great idea
He will do it when someone sponsors it
You should watch his house moving video. He literally goes through his house with a checklist from his logistics team 🤣🤣
yes
I mean, the main difference is he owns all of it 💀
"that's not a table" - proceeds to use it as a chair
I came down hear to say the same
His disrespect of hardware makes me so mad
I really love when Dan appears to save the day! The guy has both the brains and the comedic relief!
I genuinely love Dan, his approach to issues and commentary on everything. Keep that man!
For the RGBs, using WLED on a QuinLED Dig and 12v sk6812 LED strip is my favorite setup so far! A Dig Uno can control ~500-600 pixels so you could most likely get the whole cabinet lit with one controller (depending on the strip density). Definitely worth checking out.
SK6812 are 5V. Any 5V strip would be fine as I assume he won’t care about individual pixels for a bookshelf. WLED would be way better than this though, I agree. Problems with large LED quantities would be 1) connecting them together as they’re not really wired for that and 2) power injection. He’d have been better off with some cheap WLED controllers like the Athom (the small one). It would be smaller and easier to hide than that massive box. I’d also have gone for a higher pixel density - 60/m minimum
Dan is so great, he's just like building solutions out of thin air. Impressive!
He's literally my favourite thing to happen to LTT in a good long while.
Dan is a treasure. Your channel has long lacked a Mr. fixit type and while I am sad it's not me, Dan appears quite capable and funny.
Jake has solutions
he reminds me a lot of an older Alex. Alex is pretty resourceful, and they're both certainly not shy to come up with a janky solution xD
I love all the LTT Folks, but since he's joined Dan has been my favorite. His energy is so great, and he's got great reactions to Linus
Linus: “This is a monitor, not a table”
Also Linus: *Uses monitor as a chair*
thank you!
He sat on the box like he wants to make it a curved monitor in two different axis
lol
And uses a table like a chair
I screamed when i saw that
Linus: "No Dan, thats not a table, thats a monitor, we need that"
Also Linus: *proceeds using it as a chair*
** Proceeds to use it as a chair
I think you had a stroke writing this, sir.
what do you mean he did use it as a chair
@@Shaggy_real
Linus: "This monitor is not a table."
Also Linus: IMMEDIATELY uses the monitor as a chair
Linus in every Intel Extreme Tech Upgrade: "OOOOO So you took things from office"
Also Linus: "we dont use it at the office, so I brought it home"
The video where he had sheets of inventory for what he had taken home. Linus already admitted he's the biggest thief.
@@bipbop3121 which video
@@wiking2253 moving video iiirc
Complains when Hoffman takes two MacBooks, proceeds to take a camera
@@Karthecar16 when you're boss you get that luxery
23:26 is so hilarious.
"It's only about 190C so its not gonna start melting the plastic _yet_" - Lord Jank
Yeah that shit is a goddamn bomb lmao
@@MvsG18 yeah it’s probably a good idea to isolate that power brick
Maaan, if one random towel is dropped on that brick, they are gonna have a bad time. Not to mention a kid might touch that. I hope they really thought this through
@@SDinay It's going inside the wall of the cabinet lol that's not a problem
@@speedstyle. The wooden wall? 🔥
This whole taking LTT to the next level is so exiting. Love following the journey
Yeah, 100% exiting
I love Dan.
"There's no fires yet. Yet."
190 °C is... A lot. It's almost PLA printing temperature.
@@ThePixel1983 no way is he measuring 190*C anywhere. Maybe 88*C (190F) PSU which is cooking inside. I wouldn’t trust that PSU depending where it came from & who made it. So much electronics & sometimes mixed with water running in rooms with no one watching… there’s going to be a house fire eventually.
No way is he measuring 190*C. Maybe 88*C (190F) PSU which would be cooking inside. That PSU looks like it might be janky. So many electronics items running unsupervised… I wouldn’t be surprised if there was an electrical fire eventually.
Awwww Linus! I do cabinetry lighting like this for a living. The contractor ALMOST had it nailed! You do want the aluminum tracks, you do want the wiring ran to a single location like it was, however, you wanted it to be an 18/3 cable (power, ground, and data). I like to run them to Quindig Controllers running WLED. Use BTF Lighting SK2812’s 60LED/M with warm white channel (you can make the color cooler by adding in the RGB combination if you need to). When you solder your wires to the RGBW strips, use 3/8” optically clear adhesive lined heatshrink to protect the solder joints. This clear heatshrink can cover the first LED in the strip just fine and won’t change the light pattern as its optically clear. Use Meanwell 5V PSU’s and you’d be set! You should look into it!!!!!
He paid a fortune on those zwave controllers. I dont think its wise to replace them with wifi controllers...
@@jpw5996 I would still sell them for half the price he paid for them and replace it all with a WLED setup instead. It's truly a no brainer. Not only that I'm pretty sure he used a zwave controller at each and every single strip. Where he probably could have used a couple ESP32 to control every strip in the unit. Wife didn't seem thrilled about seeing control boxes or power supplies in the cubbies. I would have also went with something much higher amps and not a brick like he purchased in case I wanted to add something else later on.
Not only that what kind of control will you get out of those zwave kits? I'm sure you can get it working with home assistant but what if you wanted to say add it into something through e1.31, DMX, UDP, or any lighting software like artemis, openrgb, etc?
I made myself a 10 port ARGB hub using WLED and ESP32 so i would have a hub i could connect 9 fans and my cooler ARGB independently controlled. This pairs nicely with my under desk strips, ceiling strips, and 3d printed ARGB signs. Heres my office using all WLED stuff. ua-cam.com/video/LMyi9RYDg1Q/v-deo.html Ceiling lights were turned off because my camera was washed out with the light from it also.
@@krown466 Selling will be hard with all those plugs desoldered.
Also i dont think everybody needs the type of control you are speaking about.
Most people are fine with setting a color with alexa or their smartphone and leaving it at that. (we are not them and its fine, but you cant expect everyone to tinker with this that much.)
Not to mention the additional difficulties you have with going to 5V that other people already pointed out.
Linus said in the video he wont change the 2 pole cables, so it really isnt an option anyways...
@@jpw5996 if they’re straight into a cabinet behind that wall he may be able to tape on an 18/3 to the 2 wire and pull new wire straight in without any gutting. This is Linus I would assume he’d want patterns and effects and better integration than just a z-wave controlled basic single color setup.
@@krown466 you’re right, control it with HomeAssistant WLED integration and a zwave dongle to speak back to his switches or whatever other type of control schema he has....
If you want something fun since you're using Home Assistant to change your light colour, you CAN setup automations for your lights to be whatever colour you'd like and then use the Home Assistant API functions and your stream deck to call that automation to change your lights however you want while streaming 🙂
Just a heads up Linus. The AW3423DW has been having some relatively minor software problems. If you were sent the original firmware version MOB01, some people are having problems with the "pixel refresh" popup shutting off power to the display after it runs instead of going back to standby. It also counts standby time towards the refresh timer. So you can use the monitor for a bit, step away for a few minutes, monitor will go into standby and run pixel refresh, and then turn itself off. It will require you to hit the power button to turn it back on.
Dell originally was saying this was "intended" for power saving reasons, but then reneged on it and have fixed it in a newer firmware MOB02.
The problem is they have chosen not to provide a user side firmware update option with the monitor. The ONLY solution is to send the monitor back and get a replacement.
In a premium monitor from a premium company it's totally unacceptable to not allow user side firmware updates. This seems to be becoming more common.
Would love to see a video on some of these flaws and pressure Dell to cut it out and provide a user side firmware update option.
There's also fan noise on a lot of these (like clicking) that can be very noticeable in a quiet room. I've never heard of a monitor with fan noise. They say it's normal.
Otherwise it's the best monitor I've ever owned, plays incredible, looks incredible, but again at the price I don't expect these flaws and the no firmware updates thing is unacceptable.
www.dell.com/community/Alienware-Desktops/AW3423DW-please-let-us-update-firmware/td-p/8222694
@@jkteddy77 I did the return and they overnighted a new monitor to me. The software issues were fixed minus the not able to update thing. Problem I had with the new one is I have the fan noise problem. My original was actually silent. I don't want to return it again out of a similar fear to you that they send a refurb instead of new...
Linus: *Gets on his employee's cases for all the stuff stolen from the office*
Also Linus: *Proudly talks about all the stuff stolen from work he's using in his upgraded setup*
Linus: "Why are you using this monitor as a table?"
Also Linus: *Uses the monitor as a chair*
This video was hilarious
Because he thinks he's better than them. Shame how so many workers support the petty bourgeoisie while they profit off them. All private businesses are unethical. Only three types of firm should exist, sole proprietorships, coops, and state enterprises.
its different when your you know the wowner of the office.
@@TimTams_64 shouldn’t be; private firms are unethical. All businesses should be coops or state owned
@@TimTams_64 also it’s not like any of that hardware is needed at the office on any sort of short notice
@@poiu477 "private firms are unethical. All businesses should be coops or state owned" god such a dumb statement
Okay so: Linus steals the most stuff from the office
True
Sounds like you might need a 3d printed support for your HDMI issue with the sony camera. I have done some for USB-C connections in laptops which have worked out really well. Different concept and connection but should be able to attach a support for the end of that cable on the top of the camera and supporting that HDMI wire coming out of it.
Well, i have an A7S2 and they come with a HDMI support bracket by default. Not sure why canadian relase missed that part. They are a 2 point screw-in, body has a special mounts for them. Also, Getting a CAGE around A7S2 with a clip-in cable would solve the problem. Mounting a flex Micro to normal HDMI adapter would be even better as you're putting all stress on big HDMI connection.
So, i'm kinda surprised LTT had that problem (using a7s2 for over 5 years, def. not lightly - no problems with HDMI. USB on the other hand...
This
@@PandaEvent oml
@@PandaEvent om
@@PandaEvent komhlllplllnh
Klo
I started streaming about a year ago, my partner does filming and editing and we are musicians with lots of equipment at home so I had a good choice of microphones and cameras. I straight away went with a smaller Rode NTG4+ microphone cause I knew I did not want a mic to be visible on camera or to be right in front of my face because I too fidget a lot during streams. I often get people commenting on how good my sound is and people amazed that there is no mic to be seen. I happen to use the same camera as Linus gets here, it's my partners main camera and it's amazing. We have a charger that goes into the battery slot as if you use just a charging cable whilst the battery is in I think it cuts that batteries life so this way it gets powered without the need for a battery. Super psyched to see Linus go with a similar set up to my own, highly recommend the microphone decision however there are much smaller boom style microphones such as the Rode NTG series that won't take up so much space. Also, what is a table?
Do you know what lens Linus is using?
About the webcam, with that one a nice life hack is that you can use the privacy cover to mount the webcam a little higher. Hope that helps!
The problem with shotgun microphones for a desk setup, and something I wish was tested in the video, is that they will pick up keyboard noise. You can use something like Nvidia Broadcast to fix that but it's still not ideal since that affects your voice quality as well
The biggest problem with Nvidia Broadcast in my opinion is not the voice quality (because your voice is already compressed in Discord), it's the added latency. When I'm playing RL with comms, I disable my Nvidia Broadcast to reduce latency.
@@maxinoume Linus streams with this setup so quality does matter
Dan is one of my favorites. Need him in a Junkyard Wars episode.
Dan and Alex as a team would be amazing.
You mean scrapyard wars?
@@bouvaneeswarypa148 yea
Use the existing in wall wiring to pull through a 6 conductor cable, even something like cat6, then solder the ends of the cat6 to the strips and have the control boxes in the closet. Gives the clean installation you're looking for and is fairly simple and straightforward.
Linus yelling "who's my sponsor?" in absolute confusion is what imagine LTT intros will look like in 40 years.
Won’t exist
You DONT want 5V aRGB fwiw, (for architectural installs, keep reading before disagreeing) 24 V is ideal actually if there’s just a single supply.
It’s because each led the voltage passes through it lowers a bit, such that the 5-> 4.9-> 4.8 … until the voltage is below the minimum to turn on the leds (typically white is effected first and red last). You can get about 60 leds before droop kills you, but at full brightness as few as 30. You can “inject” power in both ends, but it’s a pain.
With 24 V that slow decline takes MUCH longer to fall below the ~2.9V for green and white, to the 1.8 v on red( the most efficient led and lowest voltage) (also yes I know leds are current run and not voltage dependent, but they do require a minimum forward voltage to start to pass current and light up- aRGBs have an IC inside each led that handles the decoding of the signal and pwm for each color) and you can power several hundred leds in a strand. I made a big mistake buying lots of 5v strands. My thought was 5V is easy, and logic usually wants 5v but it’s wrong, and Linus is wrong here. I learned this the hard way. A strand if 100 5v is worthless unless you apply 5v to BOTH ends and even then the middle can droop at max brightness. A good installation should use at LEAST the 12 V type.
He’s used to computer cases, not architectural installs where you only run 2-3 feet max, and then droop is not an issue at all. You can still measure it though. Measure the voltage at the end and see how far it’s off 5V.
This produces a VERY noticeable effect in these poorly planned 5 volts where what ever color you set turns progressively more red (which only takes about 1.8 V to work) and the colors shifts noticeably across the strand.
As mentioned power injection is an option, resupplying 5v every 100 leds or so, it will boost the voltage on both sides of the injection point. But it’s a lot more wires to run and you can’t just plug it into the driver board and then run it around the room. 24 V you can get quite far. They also make 48V I believe - more for Christmas lighting and large products and ones that run at 110V by putting two leds in anti parallel and a large dropping resistor, but I don’t recommend these as mains voltage in a flexible Chinese circuit strip sounds like a fire hazard to me, though I have some of these too.
Thank you for that write up. That information might be very useful to me in a couple of months.
Interesting
@6:00 because 24V rules the world!!!!! Grab a chonky 550W industrial psu and power All The Things!
I love the open, that was great! Linus must really be losing it with all the stuff going on all at once in his, and his families, life atm. Here's to hoping we have a sane Linus after the dust settled!
Serious question. With all of the electronics that there are in your place, what kind of fire counter measures do you have?
Dennis in the attic with a carbon dioxide extinguisher
@@Albatross-365 freaking hilarious man
bro shits fire af
@@Albatross-365 He needs the massagers to deal with such stress.
Honestly would like to see ltt make a video on that
For those with LG OLEDs that want to reduce burn-in without a janky program,
In Windows:
Power & Sleep setting > "When plugged in, turn off after" > Never
Screen Saver > Blank > Wait > (Your preference, mine is set to 3 minutes)
TV will be off for all intents and purposes, then
In LG TV Menu:
General > System > Time & Timer > Timers > Power Off Timer > On > (Time of your choosing, mine is 11pm) > Timer repeat > Every Day
That way when you're outside of the hours you are using the display, it will turn itself off so it's not "on" 24/7.
I would have used bare ws2812b led strips with esp32's running WLED for the RGB strips. It's cheaper much more customizable controllable from home assistant locally and open source. For a kind of out of the box solution you can buy or build a quinLED board.
That's the part I also don't understand. It would have been the best solution. Especially with home assistant and having b everything locally.
This. I also just found out about WLED and i love it. very easy to install and customise and control over your WLAN. Also only needs 5V and only one microcontroller for like up to 4000 leds.
Only thing one should not forget ist to use fuses in front of any led segment (in general not just with WLED and ws2812b) since bigger power supplies internal fuse may not trip when a short inside the led strip occours -just to be on the safe side
@@z1dlukasw.666 Realistically you can do around 800 per port with 4 ports so 2400 before it is not abel to sustain the target 42 fps. And there is a limit of around 1200 LEDs if you use ledmaps for now in version 13.2.
@@patrickpopp9197 also completly true, the 4000 was more a theoretical max. it was just more or less to prove a point, that there is no need for a control box on every shelf whilst still keeping the control over each segment /shelf individually.
Yep, after doing a shitload of research last year, this is pretty much exactly what i landed on. The one thing that surprised me the most was how much Wattage you need to supply longer lengths of LED’s. kinda blew my mind.
for optical hdmi (2.1), I used a phoossno gen2 cable I grabbed off Amazon.
Comes in up to 20m, and the gen2 version will do 4K 120Hz + VRR with RTX 3000 series on my LG CX
How long
10:38 This is exactly how I'd react to being unexpectedly caught on camera
Something to consider when using a 4k TV as a monitor: mine is about 50 inches (48 maybe, I don’t remember). I split off the bottom right corner to be a 1440p “monitor.” That leaves basically a 1280x2160 vertical “monitor” on the left side and a 2560x720 “monitor” on the top right. It actually works really well. I use fancyzones in powertoys to snap things into those windows, and just run games in windowed mode on the 1440p section.
Fancy zones ftw
Hey Linus, a good trick for streaming lights: bounce them off the wall. Much easier on the eyes, and a nice softer look.
Also, for indoors, I'd recommend a hyper-cardioid mic (looks like a short shotgun) like the Audio-Technica AT4053B.
"I don't want multiple monitors at home"
Yup, I get it! I always used multiple monitors for college and now at work, and coming home to just one nice monitor feels.. relaxed. It just kinda helps you relax and just do one thing at a time.
Like for years I would always be watching a video while browsing, and have task manager open and all that, but just one thing at a time makes you feel so much less busy.
That software for the tv has actually came in clutch! I have had that issue for a while and I stopped using my larger screen because of it.
Can we have the link please?
Monitor stuff aside, this reminds me of how David used to have a super-expensive camera for streaming before switching to a webcam. I guess even for Linus, there’s such a thing as overkill.
Why did David switch?
@@-SP. It was too unwieldy for him to manage.
Nah he just cheap. Will do it when a sponsorship pays for it
@@Neoxon619 Thats what she said.
@@blockbertus Well played, my friend.
Ok, I've never been more sold on OLED than after seeing the monitor from 10:12 onwards- in a best kind of sense, it looks like someone just pasted the screencap on a take from actual camera, no viewing angles, no glow... love it!
Shame I can't afford it but you know, details
Dan is amazing , love his energy and humor!
I'm with Linus on this one. On my personal PC I like to just do one thing at a time as well. It's a habit from the old days when RAM was much more limited and CPUs were all single core, it was helpful to religiously close out programs that you weren't actively using. However, it also helps me focus on the thing I'm doing at the moment.
nah, even when gaming I like to have a guide, or maybe some podcast running on the second screen
I turn off my extra monitor when I'm playing a single player game, but if I'm playing multiplayer games I keep discord on my vertical side monitor. If I streamed I would definitely use my side monitor to do chat/obs/etc.
9:45 you made me so happy that I am not the only person using my fold as secondary display
14:40 Probably the funniest pun reaction I have ever seen
Same😂
What a great team! Well done Dan on splitting lights together and wayy better camera setup and bokeh compared to the last one. Looks great!
Great video. I prefer the 34" ultrawide. TV's just don't cut it. I was regretting my 34" UW purchase when I saw some people using 43" top notch TV's instead, but after seeing sacrifices, I will stick with my 34" UW. I tried hooking it up to 65" 4k TV in living room just to see difference, and sat back appropriate distance, but I could not get used to it. The rest of your choices I agree with. But it's your setup, so it's your choice! Enjoy! You deserve it! (PS: I really like your planned family gaming room downstairs!)
lg c2 better
The typical reason for not using shotgun microphones indoors is to prevent phase issues. The concept is similar to noise cancellation and the shotguns use this to create their narrow pickup pattern. The longer, the more extreme this effect. In a well treated and large room, this isn't a big issue, but I'd still use a small shotgun or even pencil style microphone for your use case instead.
Just like the other commenter Nils Gröne pointed out, those shorter mics will also give you a broader pickup area and allow you to move around more.
Shotgun mic is a *bad idea* in an acoustically untreated room. Because of how shotguns mics work (interference tube), and because of all the reflections in that small room, there's a high risk you'll encounter severe comb filtering at the mic, which will result in a thin, hollow sound with spiky artifacts. Shotguns are best used outdoors or in large spaces without any early reflections.
If you're dead set on a shotgun then you will have to treat your walls with ample broadband absorption.
Otherwise your best bets are
a) a headset mic because that's always at your talk hole, or
b) the boom mic you already have because it's fine and because moving the mic is not a big deal.
c) an overhead pencil condenser just out of frame like on a studio set. This will also require a treated room for best results.
Also, your reasoning defeats itself. A narrow pickup pattern is exactly the opposite of what you want if you're moving around a lot.
Agreed, condenser is 100% the way to go. He’ll forget it’s even there. Unless he has an air conditioner, then he’ll want a switch to block out the lower rumble or pass it through some post processing
Also the NTG-8 is comically oversized for your setup.
@@tc2241 Well, the NTG-8 *is* a condenser mic. I think what you're trying to say is that a shotgun is 100% the way to avoid.
Just use a regular-sized cardioid mic, whether it's a condenser or dynamic is less relevant to the matter at hand.
@@BoGusaddy Yes, also that. If Linus insists on a shotgun mic then there are much more space-appropriate (i.e. shorter) options available from Rode and others. He'll still have to treat his room, of course.
My setup is flexible:
I use a side-address studio condenser on a boom arm. I keep it pointed at the general vicinity of my mouth from 8-to-12 inches away at about a 45°-60° angle so I don't get pops and it's not up in my grill or obstructing my view. My room is carpeted and full of stuff so it's pretty dead and it sounds perfectly good for gaming and calls.
I have a headset mic plugged into my Philips SHP9500 headphones. I can switch seamlessly between speakers and headphones, and between boom and headset mic, in any combination, depending on what I'm doing and how I want to work or play.
Works a treat.
Just saying, you might want to put some heatsink or something to cool that power brick down if you don't want to burn the house down. I'm sure the experience from the Steam Deck heatsink will help with that ;)
Personally, I remember putting an old, massive chipset heatsink on my monitor power brick (using thermal epoxy) due to it literally toasting my other cables and table, I had burnmarks on my old desk (luckily no fire, but still dangerous enough to burn the house down). Since I upgraded to a new desk, I luckily never needed the heatsink again (mostly different cable management and the management rack being metal). Still has a heatsink though! (for nostalgia reasons hehe)
@@25566 They never showed the finished product, I think they kept it as a joke using the one brick, but pretty damn sure Dan isn't an idiot that will burn the house down.
4:48 If in doubt, always summon Dan
I had chose the alienware, big enough but not too big, curved (for gaming very good, at least for me) and brighter. Not to mention the no need for remote and better integration for pcs
Oh I'll kk LL LL LL lohlyl
@G Money hlllohl
@G Money totl
Oo
@G Money Curve is a big win though, I currently run the 38in Alienware ultrawide and it's awesome, but prefer my lg cx 55's colors/blacks.. Probably going to replace the Alienware 38 with the 34 qoled but it's a tough choice
@G Money You don't need a remote for a monitor and there's nothing wrong with a curved display for a single user sitting in front of it. I honestly miss my curved samsung monitor ever since switching to my Gigabyte M27Q. The corners look so much further away.
You're paying "more" for higher refresh rate even at 10 bit (although I'd prefer 8 bit 175hz), display port, higher brightness, better colors, and a more reasonable resolution for gaming that you can actually push up to 175fps on. And I say "more" in quotes because idk what scam site you're looking on, but the C2 has been $1400 up until a few weeks ago in which it came down to it's current price of $1250.
Also using the C2 42" and love it :)
Running HMDI 2.1 with 4k 120hz though!
As for micro hdmi (video guy here)
We use clamps for the cable. It's like a tripod plate but extends sideways and has a little screw that keeps the cable in place. We just store it with an micro to normal hdmi adapter screwed in at all times. No broken ports since.
You could also use something like a cage that has said cable/connector holder
I had a thought recently, that these days homes should additionally to 120/240V AC be wired with 24V DC out of the box. The sheer amount of big transformers in even bigger power bricks you have for your countless electronic devices in your house should easily justify the cost of additional copper. And just imagine the convenience of plugging essentially everything directly into the wall.
I know there are 24V circuits in some offices/schools, but they should get much more popular in homes as well.
What devices for example?
24V is popular for LED lighting, but you'd need a beefy power supply and a breaker box just for all the 24V circuits in the house if they became commonplace. Better to use a dedicated 24V power supply for each 24V appliance. Oh, and 24V LED lighting circuits are often 24V AC.
It sounds great until you start thinking about it. If you have, particularly, a lot of 24V appliances, they will need to draw more current to use the same amount of power as they would at 120V. This means beefier wires will be needed if you wanted to be able to push 1,800W through a 24V circuit to match a standard 15A 120V circuit. That would be 75A; you'd need 3 AWG wire to handle it (with three conductors).
SMPSs have gotten very cheap and very efficient as well, removing the need to supply appliances with lower voltages, because they are super efficient at converting one voltage to another. One problem they have is noise, though. Anything sensitive to noisy power rails will need a linear power supply, but that's not quite relevant.
I think its cheaper to spend like $5 on a power brick
The problem is, the lower the voltage, the more losses you get from the same amount of length of cable. Which is why 5V can't be transmitted over long lengths, or rather, it's super ineffective to do
On an efficiency front, the line losses outweigh potential savings from a single larger supply, especially since supplies are most efficient at approx 80% load. Then you have the problem of not having a universal DC power connector, and the electrocution dangers of DC due to the clamp factor, and you end up with it really only making sense if you have solar or a central battery system where you can avoid having multiple conversion steps for the added efficiency in supplying the power.
Of course, if home DC wiring becomes more common, it's going to require revisions to current electrical code, and likely will mean that the LVDC cabling that's traditionally exempt from most of the code requirements will end up being regulated just as closely.
I’m sorry to hear this man, sending love and prayers I hope it get better soon.
Linus's remote PC setup always seems more trouble than it's worth.
It's totally worth it though. Problems asside, I never want to go back to having a space heater PC in the same room as myself. I'm using active extensions/repeater cables instead of the more expensive optical stuff linus has.
@@ikkuranus I have my PC pretty much next to a window, and due to the orrientation of my house it can't rain into the house via that window so when I game that window is open. Works pretty well!
Though my house ventilatates very well. opening the door drops the temp of that room considerably. also because the door to the attic is also always open, as is the doors to the bedrooms with open top windows and often open bottom windows too.
@@ikkuranus having enough ventilation to handle a bit of heat in the summer is an easier problem to solve than all the remote issues. (Imo)
But my systems over the last 10yrs have usually drawn somewhere around ~250-300w under an uncapped gaming workload. So if I had like a 3090/12900k that might change things, idk
How does he turn it off and on?
@@edwardcullen3251 Wake on lan via an app on my phone
8:30 ofc it's curved, you sat on it
You should have requested 2 core flex cable to each shelf. With a void where the cable comes through, so that you can crimp the flex cable onto the led tape ‘tails’ and then lose the excess cable and crimps into the void
For the leds, I have a tip :) WLED Buuut it is for the hobbyist or a Dan to set it up. Not too difficult but you could make it completely perfect. Short leads and everything. One controller if you wanted to and just one power brick :)
You mean the microcontroller software and cell phone app? Yes that is great. I spent months writing my own and then discovered the excellent WLED project that was leaps and bounds above my own, so I just switched to that. For those wondering, you take an esp32 or esp8266 and you can even flash it from the browser (no idea how they managed that!) and then just pick a data pin(or several) and connect that to the data pin on the strand, the voltage goes to the led, check if your esp board can handle 12v Vin with it’s onboard 3.3 v regulator ( it might burn out trying to dump the extra voltage as heat) and you can power both, or get a $1 buck 12v to 5v or 3.3v converter to power the esp board. Requires no microcontroller knowledge at all, but perhaps a touch of very simple soldering.
Just what I was thinking, He really needs to be shown the world of WLED. I hope they stumble across your comment and look into it
Oh gosh just got to the end of the video, he has 10 different controller boxes. To adjust color/brightness for the whole wall will be such a hassle. Mine as well just have gone with the single color strip, the wife approval rating will drop to zero after learning how the RGB is adjusted.
It's too impractical, c'mon Linus!
@@altimmons Yep! Exactly! Tho I used a 5V rgbww strip instead. You can connect both to a simple 5V psu. Works like a charm. One thing that I would suggest is putting a fixed ip on the controller. Without, the controller sometimes bugs out and you lose your connection.
I also have seen people intergrate WLED with home assistant. But I'm not sure to what extent that is possible but for Linus's smart home that would also be a improvement as well.
(edit: grammer)
@@blakeXYZ Not just that but the interface that this is using, linus needed to adjust the numbers of the xolors to get a new color. That's soo much worse then wled. And probably less responsive not to mention the controllers you were talking about😂😂
21:40 your solution here isn't great. The TV actually needs to switch off to use its pixel refresher. While just displaying a blank screen is better than leaving it showing a picture, this will still encourage image retention.
Per Rtings:
"An 'automatic' pixel refresh runs when the TV is turned off after four hours of cumulative usage. This requires the power to be connected, and LG has told us that this takes between 7 and 10 minutes to complete. As a result, this pixel refresh is automatically run at each power cycle... "
In the video they didn't say it displayed a blank picture, they said it interrupted the signal, which would be equivalent to a sleep mode.
Linus' face when he clicks onto the joke Plouffe makes at 14:39 is hilarious. Rewatched that bit 3 times.
hope you have a good day LTT staff :D
Gg on first
Me, at 8:21: "Its not a Table, Its a chair"
10:50 The bezel being too thin and the stand of the Webcam is cutting into the screen, I feel that. I have the same Webcam, a Logitech Brio 4K, and on my screen the stand also cuts into the screen area, so I put a DS game card of some Shovelware game I had laying around as a spacer.
I always forget when watching Linus he is a millionaire at least if not in the tens of millions of net worth but he still acts like a normal guy
Ah yes all my normal friends order $1000 monitors to AB test and scrutinize with their multi thousand dollar computers and cameras.
Just cracking a cold one with the relatable bois.
Well that’s his selling point. Why would he change the gimmick? U would unsubscribe
You are talking about a youtuber who purposefully modeled a professional studio to imitate a kitchen, so people feel like they are still filming in an actual kitchen ;))
@@kazioo2 see still ACTS like a normal guy even though he is not
I love this Dan dude. He is effortlessly hilarious.
7:36 Linus goes, is this some kind of late April fools joke? No RGB?
“I’m tired of having to always be so close to my condenser mic”
**Picks possibly the most directional shotgun microphone**
Time for something cardioid or a pencil mic!
The boxes could go on top of the shelf, the wire poking out down through the shelf feeding the led strip below it. Less visible boxes, minimal work
As an electrician, that's exactly what I do when homeowners request LED strip lighting.
Hide the driver somewhere, usually I'm using a 200W from LED world (out of Canadia)
Run a low voltage 2 wire cable to the shelf/cabinet
Install white LED strip in an aluminum channel with defuser (also from LED world) for a backlight
Although, I always run a switch leg from a normal switch box to power the driver, so they can dim the lights.
If you had specified RGB lighting, I would have asked to get with the cabinet guy on design, and designed in a false back panel to cleanly hide all the extra crap that comes with RGB rather than just a normal white light. Or, you could have had a removable wooden panel for the back wall of the closet to access it from that side.
Drill some holes so you can run one long strip through multiple shelf areas.
Also you've put that box in the top left corner, when the top right is far less visible.
8:02 this interaction was like in a game when you go to the blacksmith
Depending on the led strip type I wouldn't try to do each shelf individually. You can get a different power supply to make powering the lights and controllers neater, but you still need a controller for each strip and then run power to each controller.
Instead, I would segment it, based on either vertical or horizontal shelves. I.e every column or row is controlled by a single controller and you can wire power into one strip and then out to the other in the same segment.
This makes wiring easier and reduces the number of controllers and as such cost/complexity is reduced. Further, are you really going to change your lighting on a per shelf basis? You can do that and you can create groups in your software to help make it easier, but it can still be a bit of a mess controlling all those individual shelves.
If you do go that route I recommend a large power supply and some type of power distribution block that you can put in a cabinet with doors that way it is out of sight.
Also, 24v led strips are typically preferable as you can run lower current with the increased voltage.
Edit, just watched further and saw the input power is coming into a closet, that's actually really good. Place your 24 volt PSU in the closet and get the wiring out of sight.
For anyone looking to do something similar you can use an Ender 3D printer power supply as those are 24 volts, keep in mind if the load is low there is a chance the PSU will make a bit of a hum. I offer this suggestion as microcenter sells meanwell power supplies as people will often upgrade them from the stock PSU that the printer comes with from the factory.
08:09 - Transforming a Table into a chair
The fiasco with the hdmi cable is the most accurate representation of a room setup I’ve seen on UA-cam.
Btw. The LG C2 has instantaneous power on with the remote. So I really like using the remote for turning it on and off. The only issue, is that it brings up this WebOS overlay on the lower half of the screen for a few seconds, which LTT's solution bypasses.
I run a dedicated hifi with HDMI ARC, so I can also control the volume with the TV-remote.
I am really happy using this setup for my gaming PC, as I don't much else on the PC except gaming. However, I also use the C2 and hifi for watching YT, playing music, watching TV-shows etc.
you can disable start up webos overlay
Dialogue mics are more suited to your purpose than a shotgun mic. I use an Oktava MK-012 personally and love it, but there's lots of dialogue mics out there and they're great for out of the way quality audio if you're not necessarily looking for that radio broadcast sound.
As far as microphone goes, you should really look into a small diaphragm condenser microphone. This will do a better job at getting a more natural sounding reverb in the room without any coning effect. It will also allow you to have a little more freedom of movement and you want to be as still for to sound good
Yup. Small encil-style condensers are best way to go to get perfect audio indoors. Rode NT5, Oktava MK012 etc..
Shotguns is causing all phase issues indoors because of voice that is bouncing around. It is only suitable for long distance outdoor shooting when you want to grab audio from couple meters away.
@@AXYZE yeah, that's what I heard aswell.
Because the echo interferes with the attenuation
Linus this Segway and Intro ..... Wow just i don't have words for how well made it was.
To stop the HDMI ports breaking the best option, I think, is to cage the camera, then clamp the hdmi cable and use a male to female adapter like the SmallRig 3021 Micro HDMI 2.0 adapter. Having a permanent adapter attached to your camera will mean you break the $10 adapter well before you break the HDMI port, leaving the clamp to be your safety net for the Micro HDMI port on the camera
Just here to say I think Dan is an awesome addition to the LTT team👍
Dude, 250 for a backpack is crazy!!!
21:20 I'm using a 4k LCD TV as a monitor for almost 5 years now, i don't know why this a problem. however, in an OLED display it is better. simply use a screen saver to display a blank screen, you kill much of the power consumption.
Was looking for this comment. Im using that too, works soo well
yes i do the same, i have an lg uj6300 55" 4k tv i use as a monitor but i sit far back in my room. the app works very well