Wow, that's a whole lot of stuff lined up there on the centerline of your roof. The turbulent airflow has got to be ratty and all of it ending up hitting the Starlink all day long driving along. I'm sure it will hold under load but might fatigue over time. Check on it regularly to make sure it's not loosening. Lowering it will make it less susceptible to fatigue with the center of mass lower but might also place the actual panel into the turbulent flow. As it is now it's probably above that mess. Just something to consider. BTW, I've started moving away from considering a class C to a class B as even a small class C seems too big for us. I've found a company called Embassy in Elkhart that has a high quality, high value van build that is a factory direct upfitter. I've really become concerned about moisture and they build with no wood, only marine grade materials Another thing is they have a proven 4 season capability so we won't feel inhibited from traveling in the northern states in winter if we're up to it. I'll let you look them up if you'd like to find out more. I know it's not for everyone but will likely be a better choice for us. There is a very "family like" owners and wannabes group on FB that I've joined and am learning a lot from. Several owners are also UA-camrs as well and are sharing their experience with the Embassy RV. Anyway, just thought I'd share that. I'll keep watching your videos as DIY is a favorite pastime of mine. 😉
Hey Mark, it sure is a mess of high profile items on these roofs. I'd like to get some strings or ribbons placed up there with a camera and see how everything flows. Maybe I'll do that one day. Yes a class B will be much simpler. I think that is why many people downsize and the class B's are so popular. As larger these RV's become, it turns into much more maintenance with items to break along the way. For the Class B's, at least the body/frame/roof, etc should be in good shape. Many of them still have wiring and plumbing mess that you have to look at. Check behind walls/cabinets, etc, and see how well the plumbing and electrical is ran. That is a sure tell sign if their is quality outside of just what you can see. Good luck on whatever you decide.
@@rvlifediy thanks my friend. We may head to northern Indiana to visit family next spring and take a side visit to Embassy's factory in Elkhart. They welcome scheduled visits from prospective customers and their customer service is legendary. Yes, small lengths of yarn or ribbon would be revealing but typically they are only useful for understanding flow near the surface though. For visualizing flows away from the surface a smoke stream is traditionally used but nowadays it's done by showing streamlines in a CFD solution. God's blessings to you.
View 22D, Hey Mark. Following your first Starlink video and prepared to copy exactly until I saw your new video. I could not find the volcano mount and went with Starlinks V2 roof mount. I like your new method better attaching the mount to aluminum plate with vhb tape. My only question is how dishy works without positioning itself searching for connection/satellites. If I take off the roof and position on the ground would it still work? Just confused on how it works without the motors moving the dishy into position, but I like how the dishy is positioned in a way to absorb the wind elements rather than in the stow position. Thanks for the great video!
The dishy works better with it flat (motor dieconnected). It has less drop outs. It's a phased array antenna so it doesn't need to point. I think Starlink has it pointing if you are ever in a situation where the satellite is below the line of site in the horizon (thinking maybe at the North or South Pole). It will work fine with it flat on the ground. Not familiar with the v2 mount but any type of mount will work. I picked the volcano because it doesn't add anymore height. I think it's discontinued now because it was for dishy 1. I've seen some roof rack type mounts that would work as well. Good luck, and I'm very happy with how mine works. Craig
Thanks Craig. Bought all the tools needed and will work on turning off the motors tomorrow. I have it currently in stow mode. Can I force it manually to a straight up and down position or turn it on and let the dishy do it automatically?@@rvlifediy
I turn it on, and unplug it right away when it's in perfect position. It may take several tries. It will go towards North so you may have to shift it from side to side. I also didn't make it completely flat. It has a tiny angle tilting forward so rain water or snow melt can run off. Hope that all makes sense.
Thank you. Yes extra holes is just asking for trouble. I wished manufactures would put correct weather proof junction boxes on the roof for future technology. This would save a lot of headaches for owners. They could also install some technology equipment mounting plates but that may be asking for too much.
Yes it stays in the roof. I have about 8000 miles in this rv with no issues. My last RV had 20,000 plus miles driven with the same install method with no issues.
@@davehill121 yep trees can be an issue if you like to camp completely under trees. We really don't have issues where we travel. But if it is, you can just unclip it and move it.
Good job, very professional !
Thank you very much!
Great video, thanks. I’m wondering if it would be easier to rivet the mount to the aluminum plate.
Rivets would be much faster for sure. I did the bolts so I could remove mount if necessary but have never had to do it.
Wow, that's a whole lot of stuff lined up there on the centerline of your roof. The turbulent airflow has got to be ratty and all of it ending up hitting the Starlink all day long driving along. I'm sure it will hold under load but might fatigue over time. Check on it regularly to make sure it's not loosening. Lowering it will make it less susceptible to fatigue with the center of mass lower but might also place the actual panel into the turbulent flow. As it is now it's probably above that mess.
Just something to consider.
BTW, I've started moving away from considering a class C to a class B as even a small class C seems too big for us. I've found a company called Embassy in Elkhart that has a high quality, high value van build that is a factory direct upfitter. I've really become concerned about moisture and they build with no wood, only marine grade materials Another thing is they have a proven 4 season capability so we won't feel inhibited from traveling in the northern states in winter if we're up to it. I'll let you look them up if you'd like to find out more. I know it's not for everyone but will likely be a better choice for us.
There is a very "family like" owners and wannabes group on FB that I've joined and am learning a lot from. Several owners are also UA-camrs as well and are sharing their experience with the Embassy RV. Anyway, just thought I'd share that.
I'll keep watching your videos as DIY is a favorite pastime of mine. 😉
Hey Mark, it sure is a mess of high profile items on these roofs. I'd like to get some strings or ribbons placed up there with a camera and see how everything flows. Maybe I'll do that one day. Yes a class B will be much simpler. I think that is why many people downsize and the class B's are so popular. As larger these RV's become, it turns into much more maintenance with items to break along the way. For the Class B's, at least the body/frame/roof, etc should be in good shape. Many of them still have wiring and plumbing mess that you have to look at. Check behind walls/cabinets, etc, and see how well the plumbing and electrical is ran. That is a sure tell sign if their is quality outside of just what you can see. Good luck on whatever you decide.
@@rvlifediy thanks my friend. We may head to northern Indiana to visit family next spring and take a side visit to Embassy's factory in Elkhart. They welcome scheduled visits from prospective customers and their customer service is legendary.
Yes, small lengths of yarn or ribbon would be revealing but typically they are only useful for understanding flow near the surface though. For visualizing flows away from the surface a smoke stream is traditionally used but nowadays it's done by showing streamlines in a CFD solution.
God's blessings to you.
View 22D, Hey Mark. Following your first Starlink video and prepared to copy exactly until I saw your new video. I could not find the volcano mount and went with Starlinks V2 roof mount. I like your new method better attaching the mount to aluminum plate with vhb tape. My only question is how dishy works without positioning itself searching for connection/satellites. If I take off the roof and position on the ground would it still work? Just confused on how it works without the motors moving the dishy into position, but I like how the dishy is positioned in a way to absorb the wind elements rather than in the stow position. Thanks for the great video!
The dishy works better with it flat (motor dieconnected). It has less drop outs. It's a phased array antenna so it doesn't need to point.
I think Starlink has it pointing if you are ever in a situation where the satellite is below the line of site in the horizon (thinking maybe at the North or South Pole). It will work fine with it flat on the ground. Not familiar with the v2 mount but any type of mount will work. I picked the volcano because it doesn't add anymore height. I think it's discontinued now because it was for dishy 1. I've seen some roof rack type mounts that would work as well. Good luck, and I'm very happy with how mine works. Craig
Appreciated it Mark.. I have done several of your mods and appreciate you taking the time to make the vids.@@rvlifediy
Thanks Craig. Bought all the tools needed and will work on turning off the motors tomorrow. I have it currently in stow mode. Can I force it manually to a straight up and down position or turn it on and let the dishy do it automatically?@@rvlifediy
I turn it on, and unplug it right away when it's in perfect position. It may take several tries. It will go towards North so you may have to shift it from side to side. I also didn't make it completely flat. It has a tiny angle tilting forward so rain water or snow melt can run off. Hope that all makes sense.
Well done with NOT drilling (more) holes in your roof! 3:43 🙂
Thank you. Yes extra holes is just asking for trouble. I wished manufactures would put correct weather proof junction boxes on the roof for future technology. This would save a lot of headaches for owners. They could also install some technology equipment mounting plates but that may be asking for too much.
@@rvlifediyThey don't care! I am back now in the UK and shall be uploading, God willing, a new SHORT video, today, on my channel! 🙂
@@gereshomeE I just checked it. Good luck.
@@rvlifediy I hope you liked it and if you have any thoughts or comments then do ask!
Have you thought about selling these mounts? There is a need for this product
I have not. Maybe when the next generation satellite comes out. I'd like to see the satellite get a little smaller which I believe is in the works.
Did you put a screw through the pole on the starlink?
Yes it's a threaded through bolt. Go back to my original starlink video and I show the process. It's video 9.
Do you drive with it on the roof? No issues??
Yes it stays in the roof. I have about 8000 miles in this rv with no issues. My last RV had 20,000 plus miles driven with the same install method with no issues.
@@rvlifediy all kinds of weather? Thanks
Yes snow, ice, and hail included.
@@rvlifediy impressive! I am wanting to do this just concerned about trees and line of sight
@@davehill121 yep trees can be an issue if you like to camp completely under trees. We really don't have issues where we travel. But if it is, you can just unclip it and move it.